Winterthur and surrounding area

Neustadtgasse

My first experience with Winterthur

Winterthur was our first home in Switzerland. We lived in the centre of the city for four years and both our children were born here. However, my first visit was a complete surprise. My husband had been offered a job in Winterthur, starting in December. Our wedding anniversary was in November and it was his turn to organise a surprise get-a-way. I arrived at the airport, thinking well this is a good start. Perhaps we are jetting off somewhere warmer, with a beach… Then I saw the ticket – Zürich with accommodation about 10 minutes walk from our future home in Winterthur. It seems like a crazy idea but was in reality a very smart one. We were able to see Winterthur as tourists first, before our big move and it made all the difference to me.

We stayed in a lovely hotel, on the edge of the Stadtgarten (city park) which is right next to the old town. Each morning we would wander across the road and walk through the quiet pedestrian streets, watching the shops opening and smelling fresh coffee and bread (we are early rises). We spent the mornings taking in the sights and peeking into quiet alleyways and small courtyards. By the end of the first morning, I was sold. Winterthur was where I wanted to live – my husband’s plan had worked!


What’s on offer

Winterthur is the 6th largest city in Switzerland and boasts the largest uninterrupted pedestrian area in the country. It has so much to offer anyone willing to stop and have a look around. You will find history, art, nature and a good selection of cafes, bars and restaurants – all within walking distance.

cafes and bars

Within this inner-city area, there are several small leafy courtyards or wide tree-lined streets with cafes and restaurants that offer a quiet place to chill out. I have mentioned them in the Cafes and Bars section below.

Gasse in German means alley or lane – a good indication that the street is pedestrian.

Culture

Culture has a long tradition in Winterthur. The city is home to 17 museums, including the Oskar Reinhart Collection “Am Römerholz” with its masterpieces of European art from the 14th to the 20th century – mentioned in the walking tour section below. This tradition continues with the internationally renowned Centre for Photography, and the Swiss Science Center Technorama, a hands-on science experience for all ages.

The diverse cultural agenda also comprises of a series of festivals – Afro-Pfingsten; a celebration of African traditions, music and food, the International Short Film Festival and Albanifest; the latter is a huge festival that goes back 750 years and runs for 3 days at the end of June. The festival is spread over the whole of the pedestrian area with food stalls and the Chilbi which is a funfair centered around the city Park and surrounding streets.

The Garden City

The inner-city’s tree-lined streets and park, along with the surrounding hills covered in vineyards and forests are the reasons why Winterthur is known as the garden city. The hills are great for both views of the city and mountains as well as for walks and biking. As with most places like this in Switzerland, you will find plenty of grill spots in and around the forests. Schloss Kyburg; a romantic castle, is nestled in the hills to the south of the city and can be reached in 15 minutes by car or 35 minutes by public transport. You can find more details in the castle section below.

Shopping

As you can imagine, There is also a wide range of shops within the sprawling pedestrian zone; from the normal fashion, book and department stores to a myriad of small specialty and boutique shops – the latter can be a little harder to find. You will need to go off the main streets to find these. However, they are still within the pedestrian area.

The start of the pedestrian zone is across from the main bus station forecourt where buses are coming and going from every direction. Once the dodging of buses has been achieved, you will find streets like Marktgasse, Steinberggasse and Neustadtgasse to be a welcome surprise.


More Information is found under these headings:


Walking Tour of winterthur’s old Town

My old town walk includes shops, cafes, restaurants, quiet places and leafy spaces.



Winterthur train station to the old town pedestrian streets

Starting from the train station, turn right, dodging buses at the bus terminal until you reach Untertor. This is the start of Winterthur’s impressive Pedestrian area – the largest uninterrupted pedestrian area in Switzerland. This street becomes Marktgasse. Turn right into the alleyway called Metzgasse.


Leafy courtyard with drinking fountain

Almost immediately, Metzgasse takes you past a lovely little courtyard with a friendly cafe called KafiSatz. You can find toy stores and a craft store here. You then turn first right into Garnmarkt. This will take you to Kirchplatz; a wide square with the large reformed church standing tall and proud in the middle. This is a great place to bring some food and sit watching the people walking by.


From Pfarrgasse through to Steinberggasse; a wide pedestrian street with sleek fountains, cozy cafes, bars and boutique shops.

Pfarrgasse has one of the smallest cafes-that-double-as-a-shop that I have seen called Il Piccolo Mono. This Italian cafe sells all sorts of Italian food items. You then get to Steinbergasse which has further specialty gift shops and small bohemian cafes and bars offering outdoor seating in the warmer months. In summer children – and older children use the oval-shaped fountains as a place to take a dip. For the winter months, you are going to want to visit the Alpaca Shop at No. 9. It will warm you up just to look at some of these beautifully crafted hats, gloves and coats.


From Obergasse through to the Grabens

Unterer and Oberer Graben are two lanes of a pedestrian street that join Markgasse to Steinberggasse. Between these two streets is a strip of large trees which provide shade for the cafes, restaurants and bakerys’ outdoor seating. Beware of the cyclist that hurtle up and down these streets. There was a campaign by the police in September 2020 to try and slow down the E-bikes, E-scooters and other bikes.

The small Loge Kiwi Theatre on Oberer Graben is housed in an impressive building with a lovely pink facade of neo-gothic carved arches. They have a good selection of arthouse movies often found in English. If you don’t mind sitting up the front you can get a good discount on seats and Monday viewings are also discounted. See the website here for more details. My favourite time of year to visit this movie theatre is in December. In the evening the Grabens and connecting pedestrian streets are lit up with Christmas lights, making this a magical place. This building also houses the Loge Hotel and Bar.


Tösstalstrasse and Neustadtgasse

The Grand Reserva Vinothek on the corner of these two (still) pedestrian streets is heaven for wine lovers. There is seating both inside and out and a very large selection of international wines.

Around the corner is the quiet Neustadtgasse, home to some small and arty cafes and shops. Including a Marijuana shop, a lovely antique shop that looks like it as come out of the Gremlins movie, and a shop that sells very special Finnish products. This is a favourite shop of mine for Christmas shopping. My tour then takes you to the Reinhart am Stadtgardten Art Museum at the edge of Stadtgarten (City Park) which has a good children’s playground and is a nice green space for a picnic.

Finnart Gift Shop


. . . while in the city try a spot of culture


Winterthur has been a centre of art and culture for over 100 years.


The oskar reinhart art museums

The Oskar Reinhart am Römerholz Villa is a compact pretty art gallery. It offers a treasure trove of art from world-renowned French Impressionists and Old Masters such as Van Gogh, Goya, Delacroix, Corot, Cézanne, Renoir and Manet as well as several sculptures. This carefully renovated Villa was built between 1915 & 1918 for Oskar Reinhart. It sits on one of the wooded hills overlooking Winterthur. Oskar Reinhart was an avid art collector just like his industrialist father, Theodor Reinhart. In 1958 Oskar made a will bequeathing the remaining part of his collection and the Villa, which housed his collection, to the Swiss nation. The collection was then opened to the public in 1970. There is also a well-tended garden and a cafe with a terrace for coffee and cake after viewing the art. This cafe can also be visited separately.

The Reinhart am Stadtgarten Art Museum which opened in 1951 is located in the centre of Winterthur on Stadthausstrasse; nestled into the Stadtgarten (City Gardens). It has some 600 works by Swiss German and Austrian artists. A link to the Art Museum’s website can be found here at kmw.ch.

Villa Flora and Beim Stadthaus

A further two buildings in Winterthur offer exhibitions on different kinds of art. Villa Flora and Beim Stadthaus (4th largest modern art collection in Switzerland). These two museums, along with the Reinhart am Stadtgarten, are grouped under the umbrella brand – The Art Museum (Kunst Museum). All the Winterthur museums are housed in impressive buildings dotted in and around the historical center. A link to the Art Museum Group’s website can be found here at kmw.ch. Note: They are not open on Mondays.

See Practical Information for opening times etc


The Foto museum and fotostiftung winterthur

The Fotomuseum, a leading institution for photography and visual culture, exhibits established names and emerging talents with a collection from 1960 onwards. For more information about their exhibitions, opening hours etc., see their website.

During 2002/03, the Fotostiftung Schweiz and the Fotomuseum Winterthur converted part of an industrial site into premises for photography. The Fotostiftung Schweiz emphasis is on Swiss photography from its beginnings to the present and the Fotomuseum Winterthur focuses primarily on international contemporary and historical photography.

Both the Fotomuseum Winterthur and the Fotostiftung Switzerland are part of the Art Museums of Switzerland, made up of twelve world-class museums representing arts of the highest levels.

The shared facilities include a library, an education programme and the Bistro George.


Oskar Reinhart Am Römerholz – On Lindberg Hill

A link to the website with all information regarding opening times, location and costs can be found here.

How to get there: By Bus ‘Am Römerholz’: This museum Heidi mini-bus leaves currently from Sector G in front of the main train station in Winterthur hourly from 9.45 am – 4.45 pm. From the museum, hourly from 10 am to 5 pm. (I have taken this little bus – the driver is very friendly. He may stop at other museums, depending on demand. The return trip costs CHF5, unless you have a museum pass – then it‘s free. By Bus: No. 3 bus from Winterthur Main Station to Kantonsspital (Canton Hospital) stop. Then a 10-minute walk towards Lindberg (partly uphill). By car: Exit Winterthur-Ohringen from the motorway, then Schaffhauserstrasse, Rychenbergstrasse and Haldenstrasse. Parking is 50m past the museum on Eichwaldstrasse. By Foot: From Winterthur’s main station follow the footpath by the tracks towards the hospital, then take Haldenstrasse, through the round-about then curving uphill to the forest. (It is signposted at various intersections).

Other Museum in Winterthur

The Heidi Mini Bus does a round trip from the main station – as mentioned above – it leaves at 15 minutes to the hour from 9.45 am to 4.45 pm. These are the stops-on-demand. The return trip costs CHF5 – unless you have a museum pass, then it‘s free. For the timetable for each of the following museums click here.

  • Winterthur Train Station
  • Museum Oskar Reinhart am Stadtgarten – info on open hours
  • Kunstmuseum/Naturmuseum – info on opening hours
  • (Stadthaus)
  • Sammlung Oskar Reinhart ‘Am Römerholz’
  • Winterthur Train Station

Extra stops – only on Sundays

  • Villa Flora /Obermühle-/Tösstalstrasse)
  • Fotomuseum (Grüzenstrasse)

forests and castles in the neighbourhood. . .

Lindberg (while up at Oskar Reinhart am römerholz museum)

From the Oskar Reinhart Museum, if you have a car you can continue to drive through the forest on Eichenwaldstrasse. Once at the T-junction, turn left then right onto the first small road called Süsenbergstrasse. Here are car parks for either the Zürich Vita Parcours, the Bäumli look-out Terrace with grill possibilities or, if you feel like treating yourself, the lovely Goldenberg restaurant with a large terrace.

Various walking paths lead to the BäumliBus number 10 (in the direction of Oberwinterthur) takes you directly under Bäumli.


Chöpfi sandstone mounds and grill spot

Another cool little place that children will love which also offers great views is a very hidden grill and picnic spot called Chöpfi – a small area in the woods on Wolfensberg that has oddly-shaped sandstone mounds.

This is quite a magical spot and is well kitted out with a large grill place with seating immediately behind on the edge of the woods.

This place is not so easy to find. Bus 3 and post buses 676 and 674 will take you to the Schützenweiher bus stop in Winterthur, from there you can walk up, behind the Schützenweiher pond, into the forest. There are several great grill spots on this forested hill. See the map below for a circular walk that includes these stones.


Castle Kyburg

Schloss Kyburg’s Entrance, Photo by A.Leggett


Kyburg Castle is 3 km south-east of Winterthur, high above the River Töss. This is one of those romantic castles found on a hilltop, surrounded by forests. From the windows in the castle’s tower, you see forests in all directions along with farms and villages. On a good day, you have a clear view of the Alps.

At one time, Kyburg was eastern Switzerland’s most important feudal castle, and the Kyburg dynasty was once one of the greatest noble houses in southern Germany. In 1264 it became the property of the Habsburgs. After, plenty of battles, the City of Zürich bought the castle in 1424 with governors living in this castle until 1798.

There is an exhibition that will take you through the castle, telling the story of the Kyburg Counts and the everyday life of the people that lived within these walls. You will get to experience the smells, sights and sounds from these turbulent medieval times.

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Getting There: Train: The S8 from Winterthur main station takes 37 mins. From Zürich, you need to change at Effretikon; taking the 655 bus. See sbb.ch. Opening Hours: 1st April to 31st October, Tuesday to Sunday, from 10 am to 5.30 pm.

Grill and Picnic Possibilities near Schloss Kyburg

Below the castle, beside the Töss river, are various grilling possibilities. Steps through the woods lead up to the Castle gates with an ascent of more than 100 metres.

Obviously, if you are having a grill in the forest, there are certain rules and considerations. You can find an entertaining information sheet on forest etiquette that has been put out by the Amt für Landschaft und Natur (Office for the Conservation and Care of the Land and Environment) here. You may not understand German but the pictures are easy to follow and also quite entertaining. Something that is good to show the kids.


Some of Winterthur’s Special Restaurants, cafes, bistros and Bars




Winterthur central city – east of the tracks

Within the old town, there are some nice little cafes off to the side of Marktgasse. Look down the alleyways and you will find some treasures. Here are some of my favourites:


GreperySteinberggasse 59

The Grepery is a crepe restaurant with very friendly staff and a great selection of crepe dishes. It is quite narrow with bare stone walls inside, a good-sized bar and hanging lanterns outside – half of the restaurant’s seating consists of outdoor benches under a glass roof. This restaurant is great any time of year but can get very busy in the evenings.


Kafisatz – Spitalgasse 1


Kafisatz is in a cosy courtyard in the heart of Winterthur with covered alleyways and a pretty water fountain close by. Outdoor seating and nice interior space with a bar. This place does great cappuccinos and the staff are very friendly.


Tibits Vegetarian Buffet Restaurant Oberer Graben 48


Tibits was founded in 2000 by the Frei Brothers. After winning a competition run by ETH Zürich University and McKinsey, they were approached by the Hitl family; creators of a 200-year-old vegetarian restaurant chain called Hiltl. The Tibits buffet restaurants and Hitl restaurants are a favourite of the Swiss. They have an amazing selection of vegetarian dishes. This is one of our favourites and was the first place we visited when moving here. They also have an impressive array of healthy drinks, smoothies, and hot drinks. Hiltl restaurants, along with their buffet restaurants, can be found all over Switzerland.


Winterthur central city – west of the Train tracks

Boiler Room – Im Kesselhaus, Zürcherstrasse 1+3

The Boiler Room restaurant and bar can be found in a huge space which was once a Boilerhouse, built for the Sulzer Areal – a large-scale industrial district close to the old town of Winterthur. This space keeps the Boilerhouse feel with steel beams, a high ceiling and other original structures. Within this area is a large bar, and plenty of seating including plush rust-coloured leather couches.

The history of the original Boiler House

At the beginning of the last century, this industrial district played a key role in shaping the city with the creation of manufacturers ‘villas and workers’ settlements.

The boiler house, which with its 16 meter high chimneys is the tallest building and at the same time the entrance portal of the Sulzer-Aral, used to be the heating center for the energy supply of the entire Sulzer area.

The original boiler house was rebuilt between 1954 and 1957, as its heat supply was no longer sufficient due to various extensions on the Sulzer site. On August 19, 1957, the workers fired the first new boiler.

The boilers had an output of 20 to 25 tons of steam per hour at a temperature of 400C. Each boiler had a coal silo with a capacity of about 400 tons. Today the silos are part of the impressive interior of the boiler room. The inner support structure of the boiler room was built around the machines. The structure’s height depended on the size of the boiler and heat storage. You can find further information under – boilerroom.ch/about-us

Plan B Lounge Bar – Pionier Park, Zürcherstrasse 7

This is a spacious high-ceiling lounge bar with large concrete pillars, plenty of windows and a huge lounging area up the back – looking a bit like a giant’s sofa. This is in the same building as the Boiler Room mentioned above.


Festivals and Traditions



Afro-Pfingston Festival

This is a free festival, spread through-out Winterthur with reggae music, an African Market and plenty of activities, including camel rides. The are colourful stalls throughout the pedestrian street – often with flags to show which country they represent. The food smells are very enticing and it is a great way to try out the different African dishes. The main market takes place throughout the weekend and there will be drummers, dancers, acrobats and singers showing off their skills which tend to take place in the church square and on Steinberggasse.


Fasnacht

For someone who didn’t grow up with the traditions of Switzerland, Fasnacht took a bit of getting used to. Each Canton and sometimes even region within the Canton has a different way of celebrating Fasnacht. Some traditions are the same for all the Fasnacht celebrations; dressing up extravagantly with masks and painted faces, parades, music and Confetti.

The bands are called Guggimusik. These are a type of brass band with plenty of drummers, beautifully designed costumes and painted faces. The Umzüge (parades) have floats designed by clubs from the area and sometimes from other places, even as far as Germany. The interaction with the crowds is in the form of Confetti – and, as you see from the photos, lots of it. I have found pockets full of it years after wearing that particular jacket to a Fasnacht parade. It gets everywhere. Another form of interaction is when the large Orc-like creatures, fairies, toadstools, witches and warlocks that are part of these parades hand out sweets to the children – who take them eagerly. They don’t seem to be put off by these red-eyed, fanged creatures bearing down on them.

Now, after getting used to the costumes, it is one of my favourite times of the year. If you are in Switzerland in February or March check out the calendar for the Fasnacht parades.


Albani Fest

I have been going to this festival with my family for over 10 years. It has become an annual event that we look forward to, along with Fasnacht and Afro-Pfingston. I imagine that won’t change as the children get older. To me, it is all about plenty of scary rides, crowds, local or international music and food. International food stalls such as the Hungarian bread tent are spread throughout the festival. The stalls are run by local clubs who provide sustenance or sell handcrafts, candyfloss, fudge, or giving away prizes. They give the festival a community feel, where locals can meet up, support their local club and chat over a beer in a plastic cup.

The evening gets a lot noisier with crowds of young people having too much to drink. There are plenty of rides, mostly centred around the large Chilbi (fairground) which lines the city park. If you ever get lost, just head for the massive Ferris wheel, which is always set up in the middle of the old town. Sunday mornings are aimed at the children with special prices on the rides during this time.

The Story of Albanifest

The Albanifest, or Festival of St. Alban, is a large event held in Winterthur’s old town. Historically it is linked to St. Alban’s day (22 June), marking the day in 1264 when Rudolf von Habsburg granted the Kyburg city of Winterthur a charter setting out the rights and obligations of its citizens. It was around this time that local elections were usually held. The political business became coupled with a festival where food and drink were given to the citizens.

It was re-introduced in the twentieth century. In the period after the Second World War, small festivals were held in each area of Winterthur on or around 22 June. These gradually became one festival – the Albanifest, which has been held on the last weekend of June every year since 1971. The event attracts around 100,000 people from Winterthur and the surrounding area.