The Drei-See-Land (Three-Lake-Region)
Find out about the lakes & canals by clicking on the name above.
The Three Cantons – Fribourg, Neuchâtel & Vaud
Vaud
The three lakes Region
Lake Biel/Bienne Bild von marcelkessler auf Pixabay; Lake Neuchâtel Bild von dgraedel auf Pixabay
Travelling along the waterways
Lake Biel/Bienne belongs to Cantons Bern & Neuchâtel, however, due to the watery connection of the three lakes, I decided to bring them together on one page by demonstrating how each of the rivers, canals and lakes are linked.
- Both the BSG Lake Biel Navigation Company and the LNM – Navigation for the 3 lakes are the two main boat companies that offer trips on all three lakes plus the connecting canals and rivers.
- Apart from Neuchâtel and Murten, the boats stop at other pretty villages such as Twann on Lake Biel for wine & walks and the impressive Twannbach Gorge (see below), – recommend Estavayer le Lac on Lake Neuchâtel’s southern side.
- The BSG Lake Biel navigation company organises culinary, musical and cultural theme trips.
- Bicycle transport is free on Lake Murten and Lake Neuchâtel (but not on Lake Biel).
You will find the boat timetables here.
Lake Murten —- lake neuchâtel —- lake Biel/Bienne
Murtensee
A bit of history: In 1476 Murten was the location of the war between the Swiss Confederates and the Burgundians, led by Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. This is a famous date because – the Swiss won! This enabled them to preserve their independence. Charles possessed a patchwork empire stretching from the North Sea to the Mediterranean. His first defeat was March 1476 in Grandson (on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel) where he was severely looted, then, in April he was chased off during a surprise attack at Murten leading to his demise during his third battle in Nancy, France. A very old, famous saying describes his losses. “In Grandson, he lost his goods – in Murten, he lost his courage and in Nancy, he lost his blood.” Oh dear, what a legacy… A famous panorama painting was created in 1893. This link gives more information.
Murten’s Historical Town Centre & Lake
Places and events found in Murten:
- Historical fountains in the old town dating back to the 15 century.
- Arches and Arcades – The Baroque-styled town’s Hauptgasse (car-free main street). The cobbled streets are lined with arches – entrance ways to the arcades. Certain restrictions keep the old town streets of Murten in their original state.
- Moat & Towers 12 fortification towers are built into the rampart walls. Each tower name relates to its position and original function. There are some rather unsettling names, such as Death Tower (Totentanz), which is at the site of the first slaughterhouse, the Prison Tower and the Witches Tower…
- Murten Museum – one of the oldest in canton Fribourg, is located in a former mill outside the rampart walls. The permanent exhibition illustrates 6,000 years of Murten’s history with items from every day life & a multimedia show of the Battle of Murten. (see above)
- Wine Tasting in Vully – across the lake
- Popular Lakeside festivals – Stars of Sound and Murten Light Festival (see below)
- Christmas market & ice skating rink in winter
Murten Museum photo by: Ben Bender, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Good to Know: The town opens out to an attractive lakefront area which is set up with ice-cream stalls, mini-golf, sunbathing lawns, swimming pool, lake swimming, boating and watersports – so is generally a nice spot for cooling off and relaxing.
The Murten Light Festival
Lake Murten’s surrounding countryside
Vully Vineyards
Mount Vully is just north of Lake Murten. The southern slopes are full of vineyards with several French-speaking villages spread out, close to the lake. There are themed walks, biking and cycling routes and lovely terraced restaurants with stunning views over the lake, to the Alps.
Avenches
Lovely small town to the west of the lake with an important Roman site, including Amphitheater. See here for more information.
Broye Canal between Lake Murten & Lake Neuchâtel
The Broye Canal connects the lakes of Neuchâtel and Murten. The Rotary Bridge, approximately halfway along the canal is used by pedestrians, cyclists and rollerbladers.
This 250m long wooden arch which symbolizes “the röstigraben“, – the invisible border of French and German-speaking Switzerland, is one of the centerpieces of an Expo.02 route reserved for non-motorized traffic.
Rollerblading along the canal & Lake Murten – the National Route “Mittelland skate”. See Swiss Mobility No. 3 route for details.
ITINERARY
Section 10: Ins – Avenches: 24 km
The path passes the monument in honor of “HPM Expo.02” and the elegant Rotary Bridge linking German-speaking Switzerland to French-speaking Switzerland. In Murten, it is worth taking off your rollerblades and checking out the old town.
Elevation
Ins – Avenches: 60 m
Avenches – Ins: 50 m
Requirements
Technical skills: medium / Fitness level: easy
Section 11: Avenches – Estavayer-le-Lac: 24 km (is recommended to walk some of this section).
Elevation
Avenches – Estavayer-le-Lac: 130 m
Estavayer-le-Lac – Avenches: 110 m
Requirements
Technically: average / Fitness level: average
Lake Neuchâtel
Passerelle de L’Utopie, near Quai Osterwald
Au Quai du Port
Lake Neuchâtel is the largest lake in Switzerland which is entirely swiss and is part of 4 cantonal borders – Vaud, Fribourg, Neuchâtel & Bern. It is in the shadow of the Jura mountains and has situated mainly within the french-speaking borders.
Some special spots around the lake
Neuchâtel’s harbours and beaches
Close to Neuchâtel’s city centre is the lakeside area of Les Jeunes-Rives which offers water sports and a place to swim. From here it is a short walk to Au Quai du Port with the LNM Navigation ticket office for cruises on the lake, and Quai Osterwald. These harbours have lively cafés and restaurants, that buzz with activity in summer.
The lake shore at Pointe du Grain, west of Neuchâtel, has the best swimming reputation in the area. Visitors compare it to Thailand’s beaches (with pebbles). Grain Point is quite remote and wild but still offers a Buvette (kiosk) with benches and a good selection of food and drink. Check the link for opening times and food. Note: They only accept cash (8/22). Driving from Neuchâtel takes around 15 mins, public transport will take you only so far – to the Bevaix, then a 30-minute walk. There is a small ferry terminal about 15 mins. walk away which connects Bevaix and Neuchâtel (approx. 1 hour).
Grande Cariçaie Nature Reserve – Beaches and Wildlife Walk
Yvonand on the southwest of the lake has some decent sandy beaches. The large Plage des Pins is right next door to Camping du la Menthue, and the smaller, often less crowded Plage de Goncerut is about 10 mins walk away. It is possible to swim, SUP, or use small paddle boats at both of these beaches.
Location, location, location
One of the wonderful things about these beaches is their location. They are nestled within Switzerland’s largest lakeside wetland – the Grande Cariçaie Nature Reserve. Eight local nature reserves are linked together to make up the Grande Cariçaie which is home to over 10,000 animal species and 800 plant species. This is a stunning place to visit for a swim or walk with its lush lakeside flora and fauna – full of wildlife. There are obvious restrictions to where you can swim and paddle – just follow the advise of the signs that are found around the walkways and entrances to beaches.
A regional walking trail passes throughthe 8 nature reserves along the southern shore. The circular walk Chemin de la Grande Cariçaie (265) begins and ends at the historical town – Estavayer-le-Lac. Swiss Mobility gives a detailed description of the area and this walk.
Boat Trips and Cruises on Lake Neuchâtel
The company, LMN – Navigation sur les Trois-Lacs, has been running since 1872 with 7 ships available for cruising around the three lakes. For more information about boat trips and special cruises go to www.lnm.ch.
For more information on cruising around Switzerland on some stunning and well-preserved historical gems see my post on the Swiss Belle Epoque Paddle Steamers. Here you will also find information on the unique three-lake steamer called DS Neuchâtel.
Zihlkanal/ Canal de la Thielle between lakes Neuchâtel & Biel/Bienne
Neuchâtel & Biel/Bienne are linked by this approximately 8.5 km long canal. The original bed of the Zihl is still partially preserved.
Lake Biel/Bienne
What to see on and around the Lake
Vineyards are spread from east to west on the northern side of Lake Biel/Bienne with forests, gorges and sun terraces on the hills and slopes high above. There is even a long, narrow island on the western side – St. Peter’s Island has a nature reserve (for bird and wildlife buffs) and an ancient Monastery (now a hotel) where Jean-Jacques Rousseau took a break from civilization for two months in 1765 (for history buffs). The canals that link the three lakes are great for a three-lake cruise which is also possible on the DS Neuchâtel – the only lake and river steamboat in Switzerland.
Wine-Growing Villages
The picturesque wine-growing towns along the banks belong to the history of the area. They are quaint (in a good way), full of boutique shops, restaurants with outdoor seating and narrow cobbled streets and, of course, plenty of wine-tasting opportunities.
Aare River Cruise to Solothurn
Considered the most beautiful river trip in Switzerland, the Aare River cruise leaves from Solothurn, travelling past nature reserves, the Altreu stork sanctuary, the historic town of Büren and under its wooden bridge before arriving in Biel. The one-way trip takes about 2 ¾ hours.
Wandering on the northern side of Lake Biel/Bienne
Well-marked walking paths give you plenty of opportunities to wander all around this area. With Strandbäder (lake-side swimming) possibilities for cooling off.
- Pilgerweg
- Rebenweg (Chemin du Vignoble): This vine path goes from Biel to La Neuveville but can start and finish at any of the villages with train or boat connections. The narrow road changes names but is a clearly marked continuous path, mostly above the rooftops of the towns. The walk offers beautiful views of these wine-growing villages, Lake Biel and St. Petersinsel. See the complete walk on the Swiss Mobility website.
- Seeuferweg – along the lakeside
- Heidenweg -from Erlach to St. Petersinsel (approx. 1 hr)
- Jurahöhenweg
- Take the funicular from Ligerz up to Prêles. the “Vinifuni” travels up through the vines from the lake-side town of Ligerz (german speaking) up to the french-speaking town of Prêles. On a clear day this is a great place to view the Alps. Plenty of hiking trails leave from the top – with one linking the funicular to the lovely, shaded Twannbach Gorge (see below), then winding through the gorge back down to Twann or across to Ligerz (5.7 km). The Aare Seeland regional mobility website offers timetables, a webcam & a hiking map – German and French.
The Twannbach Gorge
The Twannbach flows through an almost untouched romantic gorge landscape with cascades and pools from Lamboing village to Twann. The rock faces, formed over millions of years, tower above the gorge and wooden footbridges cross the thundering water.
Well-marked hiking trails from Magglingen (3 hours) and Prêles – mountain station of the Vinifuni funicular (1 1/2 hours) – pass through meadows and forests down into the gorge. This leads to the well-known wine-growing village of Twann, with views across Lake Biel to the Alps. This is a great place to rest with a glass of local wine.
Aare River between Solothurn and Lake Biel/Bienne
According to The j3l.ch – the three-lake-land official tourism website, the Aare river voyage has been picked by “Connoisseurs” as Switzerland’s loveliest boat excursion. This scenic 3-hour trip offers:
- Cruises on the Aare between Solothurn & Lake Biel/Bienne – Solothurn is a lovely historical town worth a visit.
- It is possible to eat on the boat.
- A chance to stop at a stork colony along the way.
The Cantons
A bit about Canton Neuchâtel
Set in the foothills of the majestic Jura Mountains, the region of Neuchâtel offers visitors a combination of medieval architecture, world-famous wine, alpine scenery and crystal clear lakes. It is one of 6 French speaking cantons in Switzerland and has a population of over 176,000.
Neuchatel Town
The 15th-Century Neuchâtel castle is on a hill at the heart of the Old Town. The town has a real french vibe about it with french-style architecture, cafes and markets. The large pedestrian area is close to the lakeside parks, gardens and walkways. There are also vineyards close by and plenty of lakeside beaches with facilities for swimming, boarding or for boat trips.
Things to do in Neuchâtel Town
- 15-Century castle high above the old town.
- Quaint cobbled streets and numerous cafés within a large pedestrian area.
- Festivals throughout the year to enjoy.
- Approximately 40,000 people attend the Wine Harvest Festival in September. It lasts for three days and its festivities close down the entire city!
- The Buskers Festival is in August lasts for five days and is a wonderful event for families.
- Open air Festi’Neuch music festival takes place on the lakeside with music stands and food tents.
- Swimming at Pointe du Grain. This section of the lake’s shore has the best swimming reputation. Visitors compare it to beach shores of Thailand.
Castle: Information
The Castle is home to the cantonal Government but it is still possible to do a tour including a climb up the prison tower (120 steps). Tours: The tours leave on the hour from 2pm-5pm in front of the castle (This porch is also a good place for a view of Neuchâtel and the lake) and take 45 mins to 1 hour (with tower visit). The schedule and opening times differ wildly depending on time of year. Best place to get information is www.ne.ch.
Leisure and day trips in and around Neuchâtel
- Château de Grandson is an impressive medieval castle with a museum and guided tours.
- Explore the watch valley and learn about the origins of watchmaking at the watchmaking museums.
- Visit a unique open-air museum. Situated In the hills north of Neuchâtel is the town of Le Locle. Artists from around the world have been using this town’s buildings and spaces as a canvas to display their artwork. Some on a massive scale.
- Sample the local wines at the castle and wine-making museum, Chateau de Boudry and the Caves de Chambleau in Colombier.
- Grand Hotel des Bains in Yverdon les bains – treat yourself to a wellness break at this famous thermal baths and wellness centre. Another option is Le Bains de la Gruyere, in the small, typically Swiss town of Charmey, canton Fribourg.
- The Jaquet-Droz Automata at the Neuchâtel Museum of Art & History – see below for more information about this amazing exhibition.
The Jaquet-Droz Automata
Found in the Neuchâtel Museum of Art and History, the famous Jaquet-Droz Automata have fascinated me for a while. I saw a BBC video on the Writer, and was amazed at the incredible workmanship and detail that had been put into this mechanical doll.
These three famous automata – the Writer, the Draughtsman and the Musician – were fashioned at La Chaux-de-Fonds between 1768 and 1774 by a trio of accomplished watchmakers: Pierre Jaquet-Droz, his son Henri-Louis, and Jean-Frédéric Leschot. After travelling throughout Europe, they were gifted to the City of Neuchâtel on 1 May 1909. Ever since then, they have been the Museum’s flagship exhibit.
How to get to Neuchâtel:
By Public Transport:
- From Geneva, 1 hr 10 minutes with no changes
- From Lausanne, 40 minutes with no changes.
- From Zürich, 1 hr 30 mins with no changes
- From Bern, 35 – 50 minutes (depending on dep. time) with no changes
- From Basel, 1 hour, 30 mins with 1 change
By Car:
- From Geneva, 1 hour 20 mins – 1 hour 50 mins
- From Zürich, 1 hour 50 mins – 2 hours 30 mins
- From Bern, 45 mins – 1 hour
- From Basel, 1 hour 30 mins- 2 hours 10 mins
Out & about in Canton Vaud
Narcisses flowers in May: Image by:Maude Rion
Towns and areas worth visiting, from west to east are:
- Morges with Vufflen’s 15 Century Castle
- Lutry
- Cully
- Vevey
- Montreux
- Puidoix – “Train des Vignes” from Vevey to Puidoux – a stunning train ride through the Lavaux vineyard terraces.
Lavaux Region’s Vineyard Terraces – UNESCO World Heritage Site
Vineyards at Lavaux Image by: Gregoire Chappuis_gc
Originally created in the 11th century by monks, the vineyard terraces spread out on the steep slopes above Lake Geneva still have their original terraces and stone walls.
Known as the Lavaux vineyards, the UNESCO vineyard terraces are found between Lausanne and Montreux and are home to 14 unspoiled villages. Residents of this area have been working together in harmony with the landscape for hundreds of years.
The vineyards benefit from the “three suns” – the sun itself, the sun’s rays reflected by the lake and the warmth stored in the walls of the vineyards.
How to see the vineyards and villages
There is a large network of walking and biking trails through the vineyards. For more information on this region, and the trails through the vineyards and villages go to my post on Switzerland’s UNESCO World Heritage Site – Lavaux Vineyard Terraces.
Worth a mention . . .
Lac de Joux
This lake offers plenty of water sports: windsurfing, paddle boats, paddle boards, canoes, and kayaks, along with motorboats, sailing boats and rowboats. Windsurfing lessons are available as well as various camps for children.
A company called Altitude 1004 offers rentals for all the water sports above as well as bike rental. They can be found on an area of beach at Les Bioux on the south side of the lake.
Some towns along the lake are: Le Sentier, L’Abbaye and Le Pont.
How to get there:
By train & bus – Neuchâtel to Les Bioux, Les Tâches takes about 1hr 40 mins with 3 or 4 changes & from Lausanne, 1 hour 12 minutes with 2 changes. (Both change for a bus at Le Pont, found at the northern shore).
By car – 1 hr from Neuchâtel to Les Bioux, Les Tâches & 50 minutes from Lausanne.
Getting to Vaud – including Lake Geneva Towns and the Montreux Rivera
This is worth its own section because of some of the special train journeys
Public Transport:
Good Tip: There are excellent public transport connections to the rest of Switzerland. Examples:
- InterCity train from Lausanne to Zürich, journey time: 2 hrs 10-15 mins, leaving twice an hour, with several stops but no need to change. There are also other options where a change of train is needed. Connections between trains are often very reliable with little concern for delays.
- Lausanne also has fast train connections to Geneva, Montreux, Basel and Bern, and TGV trains go directly to Paris.
- Within Vaud itself, the public transport providers have got together and offer all-in-one tickets. This is called Mobilis. You can use all means of public transport, in the chosen tariff zone.
- Along the coast, within inland Vaud, on the lake and further along the Montreux Riviera, there is an extensive transport network with stops in all the pretty towns and through the stunning countryside.
- “Train des Vignes” from Vevey to Puidoux – is a stunning train ride through the Lavaux vineyard terraces, (a UNESCO world heritage site).
Driving Distances are:
- Geneva – 60 km / 40 min
- Montreux – 30 km / 30 min
- Montreux along the lake – 25 km / 40 min without traffic
- Neuchâtel – 75 km / 50 min
- Fribourg / Freiburg – 75 km / 55 min
- Bern – 105 km / 1h10
- Basel – 200 km / 2h00
- Sion – 96 km / 1h00
- Zürich – 230 km / 2h30
- Paris, France – 540 km / 5h30
Canton Fribourg/Freiburg – The region of Gruyère
Jogne Gorge Photo by: 148568043 © Michalludwiczak – Dreamstime.com
Worth seeing in Canton Fribourg . .
- Les Bains de la Gruyère Thermal Baths, Charmey – with views of the alp’s foothills and mountains.
- Les Gorges de la Jogne – narrow gorge with limestone rock formations and lush green surroundings. The river Jaun swirls through this gorge and can be viewed from the walkways, bridges and tunnels in the rock.
- La Maison Callier Chocolate Factory in Broc, close to Gruyères – Pretty white-washed chocolate factory with a detailed exhibition, an interesting past and plenty of chocolate to sample.
- The Les Grands Chemins hike (see below) with views of Gruyeres Castle and an option to walk around the foot of the castle walls.
- Gruyères old town – picture-postcard pretty – making this town very popular with visitors. Many tourists also visit the Le Gruyère AOP cheese factory that is directly below the town – see my suggestion below for a more off-the-beaten track option.
Chemin du Gruyère Hike
The Chemin du Gruyère is an 11 km hike from the neighbouring town of Charmey.
From: Charmey To: Gruyeres Gare Distance: 11 km Ascent: 380 m Descent: 520 m Grade: easy/medium
The Alpine Cheese Dairy at Moléson
This large cheese-making cottage dates back to the 17th century. Here you can find Gruyère cheese being made the traditional way.
The process is explained in french and is limited to 50 people. You can reserve an interpreter for the demonstration. It is possible to have an audiovisual presentation outside of the demonstration hours.
This cheese dairy also has a good-sized traditional restaurant that serves local food including Fondue & Alper Macaroni.
Opening Times & Hours
Hours: From 1st May – 2nd Oct 2022
Demonstrations take place twice a day from May to Sept. They are in French but it is possible to reserve an interpreter.
Outside the demonstration hours, the cheese-making is described through an audio-visual presentation For prices and up-to-date-info go to the Moléson Cheese Dairy’s official website.
Contact for reservation of demo or interpreter: fromagerie@moleson.ch ph: +41 26 921 10 44
Acknowledgements:
Photo of Rivaz – looking towards Lake Geneva by Armand Khoury on Unsplash
