Appenzell Innerrhoden and Ausserrhoden

When you enter Appenzell’s Cantons it feels a bit like you have entered a quieter, softer part of the world where time moves a little slower. Cowbells and church bells are heard echoing around the soft rolling hills that are spread out in all directions, leading your eyes to the rugged, dramatic peaks in the distance.

Magical Place

The closer you get to the Alpstein mountains, the more you feel like perhaps some elves or orc-like creatures from Lord of the Rings will race past on wild horses, heading for Rivendell, just around the next corner. In reality, the two cantons Ausserroden and Innerrhoden are not so geographically distant from Zürich, but due to the way the two cantons managed to keep hold of their traditions and distinctive character – the expansive landscape of rolling green hills dotted with traditional farmhouses and the rugged Alpstein mountains – Appenzellerland has managed to remain remote.

The Cantons split apart in 1597. Ausserrhoden is mainly Protestant and industrial whereas Innerrhoden is mainly Catholic and rural, with less industry than any other canton.

Appenzell Town

The town of Appenzell, the capital of Innerrhoden, is a small and picturesque place, unlike any other Swiss town. It is home to colourful houses with delicately designed wrought-iron signs dangling from their facades. In the centre is a large square where the canton’s citizens get together annually in the open air to vote or to watch the traditional procession of cows that have been bought down from the alpine pastures.

Discover what makes the Appenzell cantons special . . .

scenery and adventure

Säntis Nature Adventure Path’s Moor Path

Cable cars

Photo taken from a viewing platform at Hoher Kasten, Photo by A.Leggett

One of the best ways to make the most of the mountain scenery and discover some beautiful walks is by taking one of the cable cars in the area.

Säntis and the Nature Adventure Park

Schwagalp and Säntis Nature Park from a distance. Photo taken by A. Leggett

Photo by A.Leggett

The focal point of the Alpstein mountain range is Säntis. On a clear day, the peak of Säntis, with a huge viewing tower can be spotted from many places in Eastern Switzerland. The craggy Alpstein mountains rise and fall, layer upon layer of solid rock and deep valleys. This group of mountains provides a natural barrier between the wide Rhine Valley, which is also the Austrian border, to the east and the softer, forest-covered mountains and hills of Cantons’ Appenzell Ausserrhoden and St Gallen in the north.

5 themed Trails

The Schwägalp / Säntis Nature Adventure Park is where the large Säntis Cable Car starts its journey up the dramatic mountain. An alternative to climbing the mountain (you can do it on foot if you are game enough) is walking the themed trails. These 5 trails start and finish at Schwägalp, taking you through the unique natural landscape made up of moors, forests and rare plants. Illustrated information boards on the geographical history, the Schwägalp traditions and the conservation of the natural environment can be found at the relevant points along the way. They are themed to suit all generations and offer what has to be one of the most beautiful natural backdrops in Europe.  You can get impressions of the different walks by looking at the website’s slide show here, just scroll down to ‘impressions of the park’. The themed trails are:

• Forest Path Wald 1.5 km
• Alpine Farming Alp Wirtschaft 2.4 km
• Moor Path Moor 1.9 km
• People and the Environment Mensch und Umwelt 2.1 km
• Geology Stone Park Geologie – Steinpark 0.15km

Please take note of the behaviour rules as shown on the website’s ‘Information on the Park’ page.

Opening Times: All year. Check the website for seasonal offers.

Mountain guest houses and some nearby trails

Berggasthaus Meglisalp
The Berggasthäuser (mountain guesthouses) are sometimes found in the most unlikely places

Sitting on top of mountains or nestled in valleys are traditional Appenzell mountain Inns. They offer warm, clean accommodation and solid meals and most of these restaurants and rooms are floor-to-ceiling carved wood giving a true mountain Inn atmosphere.

These places are often only accessible by foot but now and then you will find ones close to either local roads or public transport links. Most also have good-sized terraces to relax in the sun after a hard day’s hike. I have shown most of the ones detailed on the Appenzell Tourism website. The map also has pictures and links to their own websites, often only available in German.

Typical Mountain Inns

Photo by A.Leggett

Important to know: Some of these places close down in the winter months. All the guest houses that are only accessible by foot are marked with a hiking icon on my map.

5 Hikes passing by mountain guesthouses and inns in the neighbourhood of Appenzell and the Alpstein Mountains

1. Hirschberg – View Point of Alpstein from the Appenzell hills

Walking to Hirschberg. Photo by M.Leggett

This is an easy walk from the Sammelplatz train stop, close to Appenzell town.

The Hoher Hirschberg Guesthouse and Restaurant (see map above), east of Appenzell town, is the highest point and halfway point. This restaurant sits at the top of a hill giving unobstructed views across to Alpstein which is a wonderful sight, especially on a clear winter’s day.

The alternative way back (shown on the walking map below) is used for sledding in the colder months. Seriously fun for everyone.

Note: At the moment the restaurant is open all year round BUT closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

2. To the picturesque Seealpsee

The direct hike from Wasserauen is 5.8 km with a height difference of 276 m; taking about 1 hour

Seealpsee is one of my favourite places. It can’t be reached by public transport, but there are several ways to hike there. The main route has a challenging ascent at one point but apart from that is a very straightforward and a very scenic route. The hike is on a fairly straight service road and track – so very low chance of getting lost. It passes through meadows, thick forests and overhanging boulders before reaching this stunning vista. There are possibilities to continue walking or just sit at one of the two restaurants here and enjoy the views before heading back.

For a more challenging mountain hike that overlooks Seealpsee then continues on to Rotsteinpass – see walk 4 below.

3. Guest House Lehman, Leuenfall (waterfall) and Ahorn Pilgrimage Chapel

Berggasthaus Ahorn(Ahorn Mountain Inn) & Ahorn Chapel at 1,015 m

Duration of Walk: approx. 3 hours 45 mins.

Type of Walk: Circular

Distance: 13 km

Height Difference. 426m ascent, 426 m descent

Start/End Point: Weissbad village

Sights and Restaurants along the way: Weissbad village – Sonnenhalb historical Chapel – Ahorn Guesthouse – Leuen Waterfall – Lehmen Guesthouse

Waldgasthaus Lehmen

At Weissbad train station you start in a south-westerly direction. After the bridge over the Schwendibach, the path leads right past the Hotel Hof Weissbad. Cross the Wissbach stream on the right and after a few meters, it goes up to the left. A zigzag path leads along the edge of the forest, rising sharply to Rechböhl. You cross the street and 100 meters further up the path leads left to Sonnenhalb. Just before the chapel, turn right. You hike across meadows and on forest paths to the Ahorn Chapel.

The mighty north faces of the Alpstein massif is a great backdrop for this walk.

Shortly before you reach the Lehmen Inn you pass the Leuenfalls which can be viewed up close via a small path beside the bridge. Approx. 500 metres after the Inn, take the forest road out of the valley until the signpost at Eugst farm shows the left junction. It goes again over the river to the Sonnenhalb chapel. On the same path as at the beginning of the hike, you head towards Weissbad.

Good to Know:
The path can be used in both directions. I recommend stopping at the Lehmen Guesthaus because the staff are wonderful and so are the food and drink. We stayed there in early summer and had a great time, enjoying the food, peace and quiet and a lovely hike.

4. Mountain Hike from Wasserauen up to Meglisalp and then finally Rotsteinpass

Meglisalp aerial view

Image by Walter Frehner from Pixabay

I thought this photo gave a clear idea of the location of Meglisalp and a glimpse at part of the trail on this hike.

This hike is classed as easy on the Outdooractive. However, I would personally call it moderate/difficult… but that is according to my level of fitness. As you can see from the pictures, it’s in a dramatic natural environment with great views of the Alpstein‘s rugged mountains.

Where to Start

It starts in Wasserauen at about 870 m above sea level – about 10-15 mins by train from Appenzell. The path leads above the Seealpsee (Seealp Lake) to Meglisalp, an alpine settlement at 1,517 m above sea level in a shallow depression in the Alpstein region, east of the Säntis.

At this point, Meglisalp can be the turning-around point and an alternative hike back can be done via Seealpsee. (For the route back from Seealpsee go here).

More challenging: From there it continues to the Rotstein Pass at an altitude of 2,120 m above sea level. The Rotstein Pass is an alpine pass, found between the two highest peaks of the Alpstein region, Säntis and Altmann; accessible through various mountain hiking trails.

5. The Geological Panorama Trail from the top of Hoher Kasten Cable Car

View from Hoher Kasten looking down on the ridge hike and Sämtisersee

Where to Start

It’s easy to get to the small town of Brülisau – the start of this wonderful walk. After travelling by train or car through the gently rolling hills of the Appenzell region, you will arrive at the foot of the Alpstein Mountain Massif. The well-run Hoher Kasten cable car is found here and runs regularly through the day to whisk you up to the dramatic limestone peak of the same name. The first stop is the viewing platform for a panoramic view of rugged mountains, forests and deep valleys. This is the first of many wow moments.

Tip: When doing the walk, look out for the signposts or the official hiking markings (white/red/white stripes or yellow diamonds) to guide you.

Duration of Walk: approx. 5 hours 30 mins.

Type of Walk: Circular (including cable car ride)

Distance: 16 km (slightly more when walking to Rühsitz for riding back on a scooter)

Height Difference. 500m ascent, 1372 m descent

Start/End Point: Brülisau at the cable car bottom station

Sights and Restaurants along the way: Hoher Kasten viewing platform and revolving restaurant 1,790 m –  Staubern Mountain Inn 1,750 m – Säxerlucke Pass – 1,650 m – Mountain Guest Hause Bollenwees at Lake Fählensee 1,475 m – Mountain Guest House Plattenbödeli  at Lake Sämtisersee 1,280 m – Brülisau town 925 m

The Walk

The Geological Panorama Trail runs along the gentle but also partly exposed ridge from Hoher Kasten via the Staubern Mountain Inn (4.7 km from the start) then past Saxer Lücke mountain pass that was used historically when travelling from the Appenzell region to the wide, flat Rhine valley bordering Austria. From here the trail descends to Bollenwees guesthouse on the edge of the otherworldy Fälensee Lake – one of the most beautiful lakes I have ever seen.

Tip: After passing the Staubern Mountain Inn it is possible to take a steep zigzag trail straight down to the valley. From here you can still visit both lakes.

Trail along the edge of the mountain that leads to the ridge

This hike starts at the top of the Hoher Kasten cable car, goes along the edge of the mountain, and then the top of a mountain ridge, through forests and along exposed ridge paths.

From here the ridge path winds along exposed areas, dips down into forests, then back up to the ridge on steep zig-zag paths.

The impressive Staubern Mountain Inn appears in the distance encouraging you to keep going. It seems to be in just the right location at the right time and is a perfect place to have a toilet break, sit down and slurp on a nice cold drink.

The mystical Fählensee

From here you have a choice – take the zigzag track down to the edge of the valley, then walk through meadows and past cheese dairies to Lake Fählensee, or continue along the more dramatic part of the ridge to Säxer Lucke Pass, then directly down to the lake.

The map and my hike description are for the ridge walk to Säxer Lucke.

When leaving Fählensee this path looks deceptively short but there is still a long way down to the valley floor.

After leaving the lake the path leads steeply down, hugging a huge rock formation until you reach the valley floor. From here it is a much easier walk through the meadows and finally alongside Lake Sämtisersee.

A large part of the valley and lower slopes are covered in wide meadows which are home to cows and goats in the warmer months. Dotted around this area are cheese dairies that open their doors to hikers for much-needed sustenance.

It is possible to swim, use the grill area, or visit the Plättenbödeli Mountain Inn before moving onwards to Ruhesitz.

Even though the map follows a path straight from Plättenbödeli Inn to Brülisau, it is very steep and a better option is via Ruhsitz (as explained below).

Best Bits

Views of the valley, lakes, unbelievable rock formations and peaks.

Mountain Inns and magical lakes

Friendly hikers

Map

Appenzell Cows and Cheese

Image by Mika Ojala from Pixabay

Processions to and from the alpine pastures

TIME of year

Alpine cattle ascents: From May
Alpine cattle descents: Middle of August to the end of September

Unlike the alpine descents, which arrive in the valley in the late afternoon, the ascents to the alpine pastures take place in the early morning.

In Appenzellerland there are three events during the alpine summer: “Alpstobete”, “Jakobifeier” and the Herdsmens’ Ball. The season is brought to a close with cattle shows.

Description of the Traditional Procession

The ascent to the alpine pastures is led by the white, hornless Appenzeller «Gäässe» (goats), which are tended by children wearing traditional children’s costumes. The goats are followed by the milk cows, heifers and calves, a steer and the horse pulling the «Ledi» (a wooden wagon with two axles). This wagon is for transporting all the equipment needed in the Alps for making cheese and butter. Dressed in brown, the cattle owner is at the very end of the procession. The Appenzeller mountain dog at his side, known locally as «de Blässe», makes sure that the livestock don’t go astray.

The most important thing about every alpine ascent and descent is the three-bell cows, which are led by an alpine herdsman wearing a traditional festive costume. On his left shoulder, he carries the «Fahreimer», a milking bucket with an ornately painted bottom, the «Fahreimerbödeli». The three bells harmonise and are the pride of the farming communities on both sides of the Säntis mountain. The most important job of the four alpine herdsmen walking behind the bell cows is to sing and yodel to the three instruments, which – like nowhere else in the world – are played by cows.

cheese

Acknowledgements: Meglisalp Image by Hans Braxmeier from Pixabay