In and around the historic villages of The Lower Engadine Valley
Photo 126746347 © Chris Rinckes – Dreamstime.com
(UnterEngadin) Lower Engadine
The Inn River (En in Romansh) originates in the high mountains of the Upper Engadine (Piz Bernina) and descends to the Lower Engadine. This river is fed by the Graubünden Alps and where the Engadine’s name originates from.
There are less majestic mountains here than in the Upper Engadin, however, this region is full of quiet, rustic and charming rural villages, thick woods and deep valleys. The area north of the Inn river in Lower Engadin called Engiadina Bassa has preserved a small, proud, regional culture, with its own distinct language, unique architecture, and style of design. The Romansh language is well-preserved in the whole of the Graubünden region, with several variations still spoken in the Lower Engadin. The creation of the different dialects is due to the remoteness of the valleys in earlier times.
The communities have a knack of balancing nature, agriculture and tradition. This is evident in the small villages such as S-charl which is located in a side valley near Scuol, this village is only accessible by foot or horse-drawn carriage in winter, or perhaps Sur En d’Ardez. This is a very small village on the opposite side of the valley from Ardez and can only be reached on foot. These are great examples of what you should expect in this part of Graubünden. The key is to go off the main road and explore…
Ardez, Ftan and Guarda
photo credit: reinholdbehringer Guarda via photopin (license)
These are places you will visit to get away from it all. You can leave your Ferienhaus (holiday home) early in the morning and pad your way down quiet cobbled streets to the bakery, the only noise coming from the church bells and water fountains. Then, you will either sit on a bench at the edge of the small village or on the balcony of your holiday apartment to eat fresh bread while watching the sun peak over the craggy, snow-covered mountain peaks. Sound idyllic? If so, read on…
The villages of Ardez, Ftan & Guarda are situated on the northern slopes and terraces above the En river. Their very old houses are historical works of art with Sgraffito symbols and designs beautifully etched on the facades. As mentioned below and in other parts of my blog, the Sgraffito art is a very special part of the culture in various regions in Graubünden.
Walking from Scuol through Ftan and Ardez to Guarda
Ftan, Ardez and Guarda are some of the loveliest villages in the Lower Engadin Valley. You can walk from Scuol through them all in about 5 hours, depending on the route taken. Here is a suggested route:
Scuol to the Ftan Villages
Starting at the Motta Naluns chair lift station in Scuol, follow the road that ascends to the left. After about 150 metres you will find a sign showing the way to Ftan. This is an uphill path which turns right, passing almost directly under the cables of the 2 lifts. This path now turns left (west), where it joins a second path from Scuol. This leads you westward to the first of the two Ftan villages – Ftan-Pitschen at 1644m, you will then make your way further west to Ftan-Grond at 1633m.
This section takes about 1 hr 30 mins. Ftan is a lovely place to stop for a break.
photo credit: Thomas Jundt + CV Unterengadin_70 via photopin (license)
Ftan Villages – Ardez
For the most direct route to Ardez, take the road that winds around the southern end of Ftan-Grond. There is a signpost at the western end of the village which indicates the route to Ardez. There’s another signpost after about 10 mins for Val Tasna and Ardez. This takes you through the forest – rising about 40 metres above the road. (Both the road and the higher forest path lead to the Val Tasna). Turn left at the riverbank and follow it down to the bridge, cross the bridge onto the road that goes south called Funtana. Walk for about 100 metres and you will see a signpost for Ardez. The path branches off to the right. Follow the path which ascends about 50 metres to open meadows above Ardez. There are different signposted options for junctions for getting into the village which is 1464 metres.
In Ardez you will find many wonderful examples of preserved Sgraffito and Engadin architecture. Dragons, mermaids and mystical creatures can be found around almost every corner.
Ardez – Guarda
To continue to Guarda, follow the signpost to Bos-cha and Guarda which is on the wall in the front of the church in the centre of Ardez – going west through town. The street passes the post office and Volg then reaches a junction, from here you will turn right, and once again see a sign to Guarda and Bos-cha. After an ascent of about 100 metres, the road levels out – there will be another signpost – this track continues west and gradually ascends to Bos-cha. Here you have a choice to walk up through some meadows. The signpost reads Höhenweg Unterengadin, adding about 20 mins to the walk. In early summer the meadows are full of alpine flowers so perhaps worth the stepper diversion. From Bos-cha, follow the contours of the fields to Guarda.
Guarda is a popular destination with some lovely restaurants and hotels with sun terraces, as well as the idyllic fountains and magnificent architecture similar to Ardez.
The Guarda train station is 250 beneath the village. You can take a Post bus down if you have had enough walking. This will take you directly back to Scuol in about 15 minutes.
The Schellen Ursi Children’s Books & Museum
photo credit: byb64 Les maisons de Guarda, commune de Scuol, Basse-Engadine, Canton des Grisons, Suisse. via photopin (license)
There is a well-known fictional children’s story character called Schellen-Ursli who is from Guarda. The first book was written in 1945, becoming the second most popular children’s story out of Switzerland – the first being Heidi of course. You will find a museum here dedicated to telling the story of a small boy’s life in the mountain village. The stories were inspired by the daily lives of children from this region in past centuries. This is a unique opportunity to get a historical insight into daily life in Guarda and the other mountain villages around the Engadine.
Getting to Scuol: Walk time from Scuol to Ardez: approx. 2 hrs 15 minutes. From Ardez to Guarda: approx. 2 hrs
Sgraffito buildings – some interesting facts and workshops
Sgraffito – Italian Renaissance builders brought the sgraffito to Graubünden in the 16th century, where it was particularly widespread in the Engadin and the adjacent valleys. Local craftsmen copied the motifs and added their own type. The name is derived from Sgraffiare, the Italian word for scratch. This art form is a type of etching – scraping away a layer of plaster, to reveal a different colour underneath, creating shapes, mythical creatures, patterns or motifs. It is an art form that takes time to perfect. Here is a short explanation of what some of the figures and markings traditionally mean:
Dolphins, mussels, water queens with double fish tails or dragons can often be seen on Engadine houses. The motifs usually have a superstitious meaning, they symbolize life, happiness, protection or fertility. Another common ornament is the double wavy ribbon, popularly known as the “running dog”. It stands for life, becoming and passing.
Workshop
It is possible to do a 3-hour workshop, learning this technique. Josin Neuhäusler, from the Lower Engadin village of Susch, has been organising these courses and workshops for many years now. These courses are offered in co-operation with Engadin/Scuol Tourism. Every year up to 1,000 participants from different countries and from all age groups and social classes attend his courses. Kindergarten and school classes are also regular guests. For more information please see his website (in German), send an email to Engadin Tourism or ask at the Scuol Information Centre. They will provide a workshop in English if you request it before hand.
