How to Have Fun in Switzerland’s Epic Winter Wonderland

Where and how to enjoy off-the-beaten-track activities in Switzerland‘s magic winter landscape – away from the busy ski pistes.

It’s easy to find sublime winter landscapes in Switzerland but sometimes it can be difficult to find the right activities once you are there. The 7 activities that I chose are great for enjoying the snowy atmosphere, the views and the wonderful natural environment and, of course, for having some serious fun. They are sledding, winter hiking, snowshoeing, ice-skating, snow kite surfing, snow biking and alpine thermal baths.

Learning to Ski in Switzerland’s Magic Winter Landscape as an adult

I am a perpetual beginner when it comes to skiing. Despite living an hour’s drive from a ski field in NZ, the farm took top priority, so skiing simply wasn’t on our radar.

1. Sledding and Snowshoe hike in the Albula Valley

The iconic Preda to Bergün tobogganing run with a circular snowshoe walk

Sled run from Preda to Bergün

The Albula Pass tobogganing run

I didn’t try sledging until I was an adult – our farm was in the Canterbury Plains… so pretty flat. It took a lot of courage to do the Preda to Bergün tobogganing run in the Albula Pass. It is only possible to use the daunting wooden Davos sleds, however, my courage was rewarded with a crazy family day out that included idyllic train trips uphill and action-packed, slightly out-of-control trips back down.

Tip: There are different types of wooden Davos sleds depending on your level and confidence. The beginner sleds are easier to control and slower and most have a soft seating area.

The tobogganing run is special for 2 reasons:

Reason 1: The train journey from Bergün twists & turns through the mountains of the Albula Pass and over elegant viaducts to reach the start of the tobogganing run giving you a taste of the UNESCO World Heritage Albula line.

Reason 2: The 6 km tobogganing run goes directly under the viaducts and, if you time it right, at the same time as the trains speed over them.

Tip: A good time to do this run is between train arrival times in Preda. We hired some snowshoes and did a circular track that goes past the pretty Palpuognasee (Lake Palpuogna), then replaced our snowshoes with sleds at the rental kiosk, managing to get going long before the train full of other sledders arrived.

Snowshoe trail to Lago Palpuogna

Lake Palpuogna – once voted as the most beautiful spot in Switzerland

Palpuogna snowshoe (Schneeschuh) Trail No. 528

In the winter, when snow covers the Albula Pass, this region truly becomes a magic winter landscape. The Rhaetian Railway journey that passes through the small hamlet of Preda is often full of sleds and their owners making sure they don’t fall down as the train twists and turns through the tunnels and over the curved viaducts. This train ride is very smooth so all sleds and anybody standing close to them are pretty safe.

When leaving the train the majority of the people will be heading for the sled run. The snowshoe trail, in the opposite direction, is a calmer alternative to experience the peaceful natural environment of this area.

Short-cut option near Preda Photo A.Leggett

The Route

This circular trail from Preda train station follows old mule trails and leads to the beautiful Lake Palpuogna. The signposts, which are pink with a picture of a snowshoe, are easy to follow. This is a beautiful place to visit even though the lake is often covered in snow. Far away from any town or roads (the pass is closed to traffic in winter), this trail leads through pine forests and has lovely mountain views.

Some Tips

Tip 1: This is a great walk when trying out snowshoeing for the first time since most of the trail is groomed and reasonably easy.

Tip 2: Have your snack breaks in amongst the trees. The lake was exposed to an icy wind when we did the hike and the only place to sit was a snow-covered bench with only the top showing. We used that as a seat, then quickly ate our snacks and took off into the forest which is where we should have stopped as the temperature was nice and mild amongst the trees.

Tip 3: The official map for the Palpuogna snowshoe trail can be found on the Swiss Mobility website. This website is also great for the national network of winter and snowshoe routes around the country.

2. Thermal Baths in the Lower Engadin and Viamala Region

Engadin Bad Scuol (Bogn Engiadina) in the Upper Engadin

Inside the Bogn Engiadina, Image by Anita Leggett

The town of Scuol is the biggest town in the Lower Engadin Valley. It takes a bit of effort to get here but the journey through wild landscapes and past idyllic villages; as well as the magical views, from the baths themselves, are all good reasons to come.

What is available at the Scuol baths*

• Panorama pool, approx. 33 ° C
• Exercise and therapy pool, 33 ° C
• Brine pool – 2% brine, approx. 33 ° C
• Whirlpool – approx. 36 ° C
• Grottos – Cold water, 18 ° C and warm water grotto, 36 ° C
• Outdoor pool with a lazy river
• Steam bath (textile), air approx. 46 ° C
• Solariums (charge)
• Relaxation room with open fire
• Massages (charge)
• Rental of swimwear, bath towels and bathrobe
• Sauna area
• Roman-Irish Bathing area
• Wellness Centre

*As of Dec 2023. For more information go to the Bogn Engadina website.

Andeer Thermal Baths

@Andeer Thermal Baths

We stayed in Andeer for a ski week in 2018 and found these mineral baths around the corner from our accommodation. We often went there in the evenings. I think I enjoy the thermal baths as much as the skiing!

The Andeer Mineral Baths are found in the small, typical Graubünden village of Andeer. This is an ideal place if you are looking for peace and quiet. They have cobbled streets and a pretty town center with a welcoming bakery. The buses leave from this area regularly to Splügen Tambo ski resort which can be reached in 13 mins or 15 minutes by car.

What is available at the Andeer baths*

• One indoor and one outdoor mineral pool (good size) – both with bubble, whirlpool & neck shower
• Constant 34 degrees
• Evening light display in the outdoor pool
• Wellness
• Finnish sauna and bio sauna as well as a steam bath (currently reserved for women only from 6-9 pm). 
• Splash and Spa Tamaro Abo – 20% off ski pass (see website for details)

*As of Dec 2023

For up-to-date information and a funny video go to their website. Also, the Splügen Tambo website gives more information about the Splash and Spa Tamaro discount (20% off your day ski pass with entry to the spa).

Some lesser-known ski resorts in canton Graubünden – great for beginners

Splügen Tambo Ski Area – great skiing for beginners. Photo: A. Leggett

If you want to have a go at skiing far from the crowds. I recommend these small lesser-known ski slopes, also in canton Graubünden, that offer great practice runs for beginners – big or small.

Splügen – Tambo, The ski resort is close to Andeer and offers a wide variety of beginner & family slopes. Splügen is also a lovely, well-preserved historical town, across the road from the resort.

Tip: Book ski passes online, ski during the week or low season for lower prices and the day passes are discounted when combined with entry to the Andeer thermal baths.

Bergün, Graubünden – 1 beginner and 1 blue slope – both small – They are really good for practice before going to the neighbouring slopes of Darlux ski area: 3 lifts & 25km of slopes.

Pany – tiny ski resort with plenty of room to practice. Photo: A.Leggett

Pany (in Luzein, Prättigau, Graubünden) – a tiny ski area with 1 (very long) T-bar lift, 1 children’s lift and 7 km of runs. It includes a small number of good-sized runs through trees to make it interesting. Also offers a ski school and a lovely restaurant with a terrace.

Tip: The ski school is also really good in Pany.

3 Kite Surfing on Lake Silverplana – Upper Engadin & Bernina Pass

Lake Silvaplana is a large lake battered by the Maloja winds that sweep over the lake around midday each day. This and the large expanse of snow-covered ice make this lake a mecca for snow-kite surfing enthusiasts. The good news is that it has become a major sport which means better training, and plenty of options for beginners upwards – this includes beginner skiers (understandably, you do need to stand and move confidently on skis).

Swiss Kite Centre and School

This is the home of kite surfing and snow kite surfing. The owner, Swiss-born Stefan Popprath taught his first student snowkiting in 1994 even before an official name was given to the sport.

He founded the centre after realised the Maloja wind and the location of the lake was perfect for kites and surfing so, after some inspiration from another adventurer, Reinhold Messner, and researching and testing equipment, he set up the kite surfing centre in the 1990s. Anything you need to know about the centre and the sport is available on his website or by visiting the sport centre itself.

The Locations and other activities

Swiss Kitesurf has three locations. The main one is at the centre on Lake Silvaplana, the others are Furtschella – 5 mins from the centre and the Bernina Pass 20 mins from the centre. The Kite Surfing Centre is part of Mulet sport centre which also has an ice-skating rink, hockey field and curling.

4. Ice-Skating in the Upper Engadin Valley

The Via da glatsch ice trail between Madulain and Zuoz

The 2.5 km Via da Glatsch ice-skating trail runs alongside the River Inn and links the villages of Zuoz to Madulain. These two traditional villages have stunning architecture and sit in a sunny part of the Engadin valley. Even though these villages are only around 25 minutes by train from the extravagant St. Moritz, they feel a world away. Zuoz is pretty and quiet with local produce and traditions everywhere. The tourist information offers a walking tour of the town with details about the history of different buildings and the everyday lives of the people living in this part of the Upper Engadin Valley.

Another Ice-Skating option – Lake St. Moritz (St. Moritzersee).

Glamorous people sparkle this time of year in St. Moritz. Some do literally sparkle and it can be blinding. Apart from this side of St. Moritz, there are some very cool groomed ice-skating tracks on the lake. They are nice and wide and you always have the option to rest in the snow at the side. This is such an idyllic location and it is difficult not to be impressed.

5. Sledding around Grindelwald and Meiringen

Sledding in front of an impressive mountain backdrop: on the sled run Grosse Scheidegg – Schwarzwaldalp. Wetterhorn in the background. © Jungfrau Region Tourismus AG

Sledding in the Bernese Oberland’s Reichenbach Valley

The Bernese Oberland’s Rychenbach River Valley connects the Meiringen region to the Grindelwald region. This valley gains altitude from Meiringen to the Grosse Scheidegg Pass.

The Reichenbach Valley

One of the oldest and best-preserved funiculars in Switzerland climbs from Meiringen village up to the alpine valley. The valley gradually gains altitude from the top of the funicular to Grosse Scheidegg (850 m – 1962 m) and is surrounded by views of dramatic mountains.

The valley has forests, wide open fields, the Rosenlaui Gorge and the impressive Reichenbach River. Little hamlets and the romantic Rosenlaui Hotel can be found along the way. The Post Bus is one of the few forms of transport that can use the small windy road without restrictions.

Where to Sled

This kind of landscape is perfect for winter sledding. The post bus travels from Meiringen up to the valley’s highest point – Grosse Scheidegg. From here it is an exciting 5.5 km ride on the sled down to the hamlet of Schwarzwaldalp where the bus once again takes you and your sled up to start all over again.

The views are amazing with the run at the foot of the dramatic Wetterhorn and the Horn range of mountains.

Experience Needed: Suitable for both novices and experienced riders.

Tip. There are also many snowshoe trails in the Reichenbach Valley.

6. Snow Biking (Velogemel), Grindelwald Region

City Run Classic Sled Run with a Twist

Velogemel is a cross between a bike and a sled. Now used as an adrenalin-fuelled activity, this contraption was originally meant as an everyday way of getting about in the winter months for the locals. Developed and patented by Christian Bühlmann from Grindelwald back in 1911, it was known as a “single-track steerable sled”.

The Velogemel toboggan run is the bottom part of the Big Pintenfritz tobogganing run which is considered the longest in Europe at 15 km and is classed as difficult. So think carefully before attempting it.

Where the Velogemel run starts and finishes

Starts: At Bussalp (1,800 m). The stunning views from Bussalp include the world-famous Alp trio – Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. The descent gives an adrenalin hit in terms of speed and balance and is definitely a very original and adventurous way to fly down a mountain.

Finishes: In either Grindelwald, Weidli (2.5 km northwest of the train station) or Grindelwald Village depending on the conditions. (See Info section below for more details).

Tip 1: If you only want to watch these bike-sleds in action, the Velogemel World Championships take place at the beginning of February every year (since 1996) – the races start from Bussalp.

Tip 2: It is better to do the run in the morning as the snow can get soft and sludgy later in the day.

Tip 2: There are also plenty of other toboggan runs with all levels of difficulty starting from or going through Bussalp. See this link for more information – Grindelwaldbus.

“City Run – The Classic” Toboggan Run, Bussalp – Weidli

7. Winter Hiking and snowshoe trails

Winter Hiking on the sunny Ibereregg Pass, high above Schwyz township.

Ibergeregg Pass looking towards Lake Lucerne, Photo by A.Leggett

Tucked in between Lakes Lucerne and Lake Zürich is the wonderful Mythen region of foothills and mountains. Ibergeregg Pass is part of the mountainous area connecting the Einsiedeln region (close to Zürich) and the Rotenflue mountain, above the town of Schwyz (close to Lake Lucerne).

This is a great place to get above the clouds and walk out in the open and through fir trees to Berggasthäuser (mountain restaurants) and Beizlis (small eateries). There are often views of the lakes or, like in this photo, a blanket of clouds.

Mythen Region

The Mythen region is an alpine region that encompasses the Ibergeregg Pass, the dramatic Grosse Mythen mountain (1,898 m) and the Rotenflue mountain (1,571 m). This is where you will find a wide, undulating landscape with dramatic mountains, meadows, moorlands and woods – a paradise for walking, winter sports and trying out the local produce.

Hiking and snowshoe trails – Ibergeregg Pass

Ibergeregg Pass is a good place to try out some winter walks and snowshoe trails as there is a good network of national routes and local routes starting here. Also, there are many mountain restaurants and inns in this region and the routes pass right past a few of them. They often have outdoor terraces and are well-signposted.

Rigi mountain range – gentle slopes overlooking Lake Lucerne on one side and Lake Zug on the other

A natural border between the lower, flatter Swiss Mittelland that runs in a northwesterly direction and the summits of the Swiss Alps, Rigi is considered one of the most classic panorama mountains in Switzerland. Rigi summit, topped by Rigi Kulm, rises between Lake Zug (Zugersee) and Lake Lucerne (Vierwaldstättersee).

Winter Walking Trails

There are several winter walks and snowshoe trails spread along Rigi’s peaks and slopes and they are all well connected by a network of public transport.

Winter Walking – Rigi Panorama Path

Rigi Kaltbad, on the Lake Lucerne facing slope, has a small station for the historical mountain railway and is home to the Mineralbad & Spa – sublime thermal baths with a view.

A gentle walk from the main summit, Rigi Kaltbad to Rigi Scheidegg offers plenty of superb lookout points in all directions.

This winter route is called the Panoramaweg (Panorama Walk). It doesn’t have any steep sections – just a long gentle ascent from 1,424 m to 1,641 m over 8 km. It can be walked in both directions, in sections or used for walking to one of the mountain restaurants’ panorama terraces.

Winter trails are clearly visible in a snowy environment

Cross-Country Skiing Signs

Restaurant and Guesthouse Signs

My Favourite Sign – made by my kids.

Small toboggan run in Oberiberg, canton Schwyz. Photo A.Leggett

1. What to wear –
   • Always wear good winter boots with a solid sole and plenty of tread. Your boots are used for braking and steering.
   • Ski helmet.
   • Waterproof gloves, ski pants and ski jacket
   • Scarf ( tucked in of course)
   • Small backpack
   • Goggles or good sunglasses

1. How to use the wooden Davos sleds –
   • Leg position – Legs should be bent and facing forward. Hold onto the reins and lean back. On straight and flat sections of the run, the feet can rest on the runners.
   • Steering – Steer with both your boots and body – When steering to the left, simply put your left foot out into the snow and the same with a right turn, right foot. Also, lean your body in the direction you are turning (into the corner).
   • Braking –
     • When the terrain flattens out put both feet flat on the snow to slow down or stop.
     • When on the slope, dig your heels into the snow to slow down and brake.
     • If you need to brake on steep terrain, pull up the front of the sled with the reins. The more you pull, the more you will brake.
     • When the run becomes steep it is better to sit in the rear of the sled.

Rules of sledging  

1. Show consideration for others
2. Adapt speed and driving style to ability
3. Respect the lane of the vehicle in front
4. Overtake with distance
5. Look up before entering and approaching the road
6. Stop at the edge
7. Get on and off at the edge
8. Observe signs and markings

German words for communicating when sledding

• Sledding/sled – schlitten fahren/ der Schlitten
• Sled rental – Schlitten mieten.
• Watch out! – Achtung! or aufpassen!
• I am passing! – Ich gehe durch! or Achtung!

Swiss Mobility has a listing of around 100 toboggan runs with filter options for level of difficulty. Go to the link here to take a look – Schwiezmobil.

schlitten.ch is a great website, in German and English, which offers advice on different types of sled and how to get around the corners without falling off.

Another noteworthy spot for winter activities

Acknowledgements

Kandersteg Photo by © Tourismus Adelboden – Lenk – Kandersteg Swiss-image.ch/Michael Sieber