This blog shows places that are often a side note or not found in most guide books. Let me show you my favourite spots - places that are just a bit off the beaten track in this beautiful country.
Ski trails and Glarus mountains of the Pizol in the eastern Heidiland Region – – View from chairlift
February in Switzerland is traditionally a time when skiers flock to the numerous ski resorts that cover the Swiss Alps. There are all kinds of winter sports locations – from the large multi-region resorts to the smaller locally run pistes and finally, to the blink and you would miss alpine villages that transform hillside meadows and mountain slopes into ski runs (my favourite). There are so many options all over the country. Unfortunately, the alpine regions normally covered in thick snow at this time of year are experiencing more and more instances where they struggle to keep the snow on the pistes, mountain trails and sledge runs.
Planning a Snowy Getaway
These warmer winters have made it more problematic to plan a ski-based getaway in the Alps. However, as an added safeguard to ensure visitors continue to come, the ski resorts are adding more autumn and spring-like activities to keep attracting winter sports enthusiasts. These alternatives to skiing have become a necessity for local businesses to keep operating through the winter months.
When trying to organise a dream ski holiday, these are the issues that can arise:
You booked your holiday months ago, have all the equipment organised and have committed to staying in a particular holiday home or hotel. The issue: The snow is melting fast and your accommodation is now surrounded by flattened grass and mud…
You have no idea what to expect and what to commit to before starting your holiday. The issue: Do you book ski lessons or tickets early or do you wait and hope the prices don’t rise?
Solutions
1. Keep Informed
Information Board at Ibergeregg near Schwyz, Central Switzerland
Download the Swiss Tourism Swiss Snow App – this clarifies everything you need to know about conditions in pretty much any ski area in Switzerland. Some of the details include: the depth of the snow – in both the mountains and the valleys, what lifts are open and webcams for a proper inspection. This App also has maps and advice on the type of snow, prices for tickets, offers, tobogganing runs, snow parks, and winter hiking trails through forests where the snow tends to stick around. Also, most importantly for this post, other types of activities.
Bergflex.ch is an amazing source of information about ski resorts all over the country. Information includes snow depth, number of lifts, prices, altitude, km of pistes, and links to accommodation… all on one page! Worth viewing for up-to-date information.
You can always go further upwards or outwards. The Swiss Alps are surprisingly compact and the public transport is legendary. It’s easy to get from valley or mountain accommodation to other resorts or higher altitudes by public transport.
Example 1: Try The Graubünden Pass, a rail pass which covers over 7,106 square kilometres of the canton and 150 valleys. This pass includes half-price travel on certain mountain rail journeys. It also covers travel on the Post bus routes, the little red Rhätischen Rail line and some cable cars. This region is full of high-altitude ski resorts, small pistes, ice-skating, sled runs, alternative winter activities and lovely small villages. The wild Bernina mountains are particularly good for guaranteed winter snow and a chance to view the Diavolezza Glacier which can be viewed from the top of a cable car at around 3,000 metres above sea level. It is possible to ski around here from the middle of October to the start of May.
Example 2: Snow ‘n’ Rail by Switzerland Rail Network – sbb.ch. By booking through the public transport website it is possible to book a combination of public transport and 1 day or multi-day ski passes for over 25 ski regions. These passes are discounted and can include the return journey and the relevant transport options for getting up the mountain. Discounts can be as much as 30%, depending on the time of year.
Plenty of resources are always available to see what to do and where to do it. The local tourism authorities have stepped up over the last few years. You can always find informative brochures, booklets or online advice on winter activities. There are loads of options wherever you are.
… and, of course, for those lesser-known spots… try my blog 🙂
The truth about how mountains are made is unveiled in the amazing Pizol alpine region. Found in the UNESCO World Heritage Sardona Tectonic Arena, this region is full of panoramic wonders – you just need to know where to look.
The Pizol High Plateau is like a viewing platform of geological events going back millennia. You can see mountain chains once part of the African plate, the Rhine Valley, once a huge glacier, snaking off into the distance and mountain peaks, once hundreds of metres below the ocean in deep-sea trenches, now over 2,500 metres above sea level covered in snow. But the region is mostly famous for the discovery that geologists and scientists made here – how mountains are formed. The collision of plates can be seen in the clearly defined layers of rock over 300 million years old, now known as the “Glarus thrust”.
Why would anyone want to miss a show like that?
How to view mighty mountains and the Rhine Valley –Pizol’s Panorama Trail
Sign meanings: Yellow indicates Ski Tours 34 & 35 down to Gaffia middle chairlift station, Brown/red is the red ski slope to Gaffia and Green indicates the paragliding site – available in both summer and winter. Pink is for winter trail 172 – Panorama circular trail – more detail below.
Doing the Panorama Trail
Length: 3.6 km | Duration: 1 hour 10 mins | Height Difference: 30 m | Start: Either Wangs or Bad Ragaz gondola stations
Location
When travelling by car, the Pizol Region is reached via the main A3 motorway in a southeast direction from Zürich. Around 30 minutes after travelling across the southern tip of Lake Zürich the motorway runs through the Rhine Valley where dramatic views of the Alps rise up in front of you – of course, this depends on the weather. The Glarus Valley to the west, is notorious for fog but once this clears the mighty peaks are visible all around. Once travelling through tunnels and alongside Walensee (Lake Walen), the Rhine Valley widens and this is when signposts for Wangs and Bad Ragaz come into view. From here it is easy to exit the motorway and find a park at the valley stations of both gondolas.
When taking public transport the views from the train start in the valley and include the wonderful Walensee. From Wangs or Bad Ragaz buses connect the train station to the gondolas.
The Trail
The Pizol high plateau stretches out between the top chairlift stations Laufböden and the Pizolhütte, with the magnificent Panorama Höhenweg circular hiking trail meandering between these two points. The crowning glory is the summit panorama and the Grand Tour of Switzerland photo spot at the Tagweidlichopf viewpoint. The circular trail is dedicated to the UNESCO World Heritage Tectonic Arena Sardona.
Highlights:
Large info panel at the panoramic viewing platform with astounding insights into the formation of the Alps.
Grand Tour of Switzerland Photo Spot.
360-degree views.
Clear views of the ridging and folding of rock strata known as the Glarus Thrust.
Well-groomed paths in a stunning winter landscape.
Friendly staff
Cosy mountain restaurants with indoor and outdoor seating.
Panorama Benches
My Experience
I was lucky enough to have an invitation from the lovely staff at Pizol Tourism and Marketing after asking for information about winter walking in the area.
I planned to explore the area with a friend. The idea was that we would get familiar with the area by taking the gondola and chair lifts to the top, have a coffee at the Pizolhütte Restaurant, do the trail, take plenty of photos and learn more about the Tectonic Arena, then finish for another drink before going down to the valley.
View from chairlift – ski trails and the Glarus mountains hidden under thick snow.
Getting to the Pizol Plateau
Great theory but unfortunately my friend couldn’t make it so I was on my own. It was not a problem except when I arrived I was surrounded by skiers, a gondola trip then 2 chair lift rides to the top. I imagined sharing a chair lift with a seasoned skier – they would gracefully alight at the top station, swishing off into the snowy distance, I, however, would be forced to run along the hard snowy floor of the station, probably slip, ending up under the chairlift with the possibility of my backpack strap hooked around some part of the lift. The staff would be forced to stop the lifts while unhooking me and pulling me to my feet. I would then limp off, spending the rest of my time on the mountain worrying about the trip down.
Attentive Staff
Of course, it didn’t happen like that. The lift staff were very attentive and made sure I was not travelling with skiers, also the exit from the lifts was very straightforward – I just took a step to the side and was on firm ground. There were also plenty of other people doing the winter walks so, most importantly, I was not alone.
So I started the Panorama trail completely relaxed, breathing in the crisp alpine air, bathed in sunlight, buzzing at the thought of walking on the well-groomed paths. It was very early in the day and the snow was pretty hard on the trail. This meant a bit of slipping and sliding to start with, which was viewed by others in the chair lift but at that point, I didn’t care. The wonderful thing about the Pizol plateau is that you feel like you are on top of the world, with views of mountains going on forever into the distance. A few slips and slides didn’t matter. I just waved at my audience and continued to slip and slide down the path.
After the initial challenge, the path softened and was easier to negotiate. I would recommend sturdy winter boots for the walk and I noticed some other hikers have poles, but these are not required.
Near the start of the trail looking towards the Tagweidlichopf viewpoint.
The Hike
The high plateau at 2222 meters, that the trail crosses, is positioned in front of the Sardona Tectonic Arena like a naturally shaped viewing platform. The views are in all directions – towards the World Heritage Glarus mountains, across the Rhine Valley and as far as Lake Constance in clear weather, then layers of Alps disappearing into the distance.
On the trail, looking towards Pizolhütte Restaurant and chairlift.
Beautiful shapes are made from shadows created by the morning sun. Lake Wangser (Wangsersee) is hidden under snow and ice.
Tagweidlichopf vantage point
The high-altitude trail is lined with information about the view, the origin of the Alps and the UNESCO World Heritage Site. One of the highlights is the Tagweidlichopf vantage point (2275 m above sea level) with a 360-degree panoramic view and a large panoramic viewing guide explaining the geological changes and events that created the landscape.
A Grand Tour of Switzerland photo spot with a view of the Pizol summit and its glacier was installed here in July 2018. The Pizol was chosen as one of the 40 most beautiful photo spots in Switzerland.
How to get thereand a map of walking routes with lifts
A gondola and chairlift complete the journey up to the Pizol Plateau from Bad Ragaz – Laufböden (2,224 m). Another option is with a gondola and 2 chairlifts from the town of Wangs -Pizolhütte station (2,222 m). All lifts connect seamlessly. The map below displays the lifts.
Winter hiking trail – Pizol Panorama Höhenweg (high altitude walk). Can also be done in summer.
To the Valley Station at Wangs or Bad Ragaz
Public Transport
Zürich main station to Bad Ragaz train station: Taking 1 hr 16 mins (depending on connection), then the bus to Bad Ragaz Pizol Bahn (gondola) takes 13 mins. (Check the sbb.ch timetable for exact connection times).
Zürich main station to Sargans train station: Taking 1 hr 10/ 1 hr 30 mins (depending on connection), then the bus to Wangs Pizolbahn (gondola) takes 10 mins. (Check the sbb.ch timetable for exact connection times).
Car
Central Zürich – around 90 km to Wangs gondola car and 95 km to Bad Ragaz gondola car park – taking around 1 hour 40 mins/ 2 hours depending on traffic.
Lucerne – 85 km to the region.
Gondolas and chairlifts
Access to the top (Pizol Plateau)
Bad Ragaz: 8-seater Gondola Bad Ragaz-Pardiel and 4-seater chairliftto Laufböden.
Wangs: 8-seater Gondola Wangs-Furt and 4-seater chairlift Furt-Gaffia then 4-seater chairlift Gaffia-Pizolhütte.
Where and how to enjoy off-the-beaten-track activities in Switzerland‘s magic winter landscape– away from the busy ski pistes.
It’s easy to find sublime winter landscapes in Switzerland but sometimes it can be difficult to find the right activities once you are there. The 7 activities that I chose are great for enjoying the snowy atmosphere, the views and the wonderful natural environment and, of course, for having some serious fun. They are sledding, winter hiking, snowshoeing, ice-skating, snow kite surfing, snow biking and alpine thermal baths.
Learning to Ski in Switzerland’s Magic Winter Landscape as an adult
I am a perpetual beginner when it comes to skiing. Despite living an hour’s drive from a ski field in NZ, the farm took top priority, so skiing simply wasn’t on our radar.
I first learned to ski in Bulgaria on a backpacking trip. It was a bad start – the snow was starting to melt when we arrived… and didn’t stop melting.
My next experience with skiing was when my husband and I took a road trip through Europe many years ago. We had a blast attempting to stay upright on the slopes in Andorra and Austria. Without the budget for ski lessons, it was a bit hit or miss – with a few noteworthy wipeouts that we still laugh about today. Somehow we managed to avoid any broken limbs although our pride was pummeled by children offering to help us up way too often.
Over the years I have slowly improved but I am still happy with the beginners’ slopes. It doesn’t stop me from loving it (unless I venture onto a black slope in error, then it is simply terrifying).
As far as I am concerned, the point of skiing is to get out of the house, shake off the winter cobwebs, and have some fun, however, skiing isn’t the only option. I have come up with a few alternatives which can be just as much fun but maybe less terrifying (in some cases).
1. Sledding and Snowshoe hike in the Albula Valley
The iconic Preda to Bergün tobogganing run with a circular snowshoe walk
Sled run from Preda to Bergün
The Albula Pass tobogganing run
I didn’t try sledging until I was an adult – our farm was in the Canterbury Plains… so pretty flat. It took a lot of courage to do the Preda to Bergün tobogganing run in the Albula Pass. It is only possible to use the daunting wooden Davos sleds, however, my courage was rewarded with a crazy family day out that included idyllic train trips uphill and action-packed, slightly out-of-control trips back down.
Tip: There are different types of wooden Davos sleds depending on your level and confidence. The beginner sleds are easier to control and slower and most have a soft seating area.
The tobogganing run is special for 2 reasons:
Reason 1: The train journey from Bergün twists & turns through the mountains of the Albula Pass and over elegant viaducts to reach the start of the tobogganing rungiving you a taste of the UNESCO World Heritage Albula line.
Reason 2: The 6 km tobogganing run goes directly under the viaducts and, if you time it right, at the same time as the trains speed over them.
Tip: A good time to do this run is between train arrival times in Preda. We hired some snowshoes and did a circular track that goes past the pretty Palpuognasee (Lake Palpuogna), then replaced our snowshoes with sleds at the rental kiosk, managing to get going long before the train full of other sledders arrived.
Snowshoe trail to Lago Palpuogna
Lake Palpuogna – once voted as the most beautiful spot in Switzerland
Palpuogna snowshoe (Schneeschuh) Trail No. 528
Hike Distance: 5 km
Level: Easy/Medium
Duration: 2 hours
Ascent: 220 m
In the winter, when snow covers the Albula Pass, this region truly becomes a magic winter landscape. The Rhaetian Railway journey that passes through the small hamlet of Preda is often full of sleds and their owners making sure they don’t fall down as the train twists and turns through the tunnels and over the curved viaducts. This train ride is very smooth so all sleds and anybody standing close to them are pretty safe.
When leaving the train the majority of the people will be heading for the sled run. The snowshoe trail, in the opposite direction, is a calmer alternative to experience the peaceful natural environment of this area.
Short-cut option near Preda Photo A.Leggett
TheRoute
This circular trail from Preda train station follows old mule trails and leads to the beautiful Lake Palpuogna. The signposts, which are pink with a picture of a snowshoe, are easy to follow. This is a beautiful place to visit even though the lake is often covered in snow. Far away from any town or roads (the pass is closed to traffic in winter), this trail leads through pine forests and has lovely mountain views.
Some Tips
Tip 1:This is a great walk when trying out snowshoeing for the first time since most of the trail is groomed and reasonably easy.
Tip 2:Have your snack breaks in amongst the trees. The lake was exposed to an icy wind when wedid the hike and the only place to sit was a snow-covered bench with only the top showing. We used that as a seat, then quickly ate our snacks and took off into the forest which is where we should have stopped as the temperature was nice and mild amongst the trees.
Tip 3: The official map for the Palpuogna snowshoe trail can be found on the Swiss Mobility website. This website is also great for the national network of winter and snowshoe routes around the country.
Information
Services
Snowshoe and Sled Rental – Mark Sportin Bergün – staff are always friendly and happy to help. The Kiosk directly at Preda train station also hires a selection of sleds and snow shoes.
Getting There
The toboggan run and snowshoe trail both start from the train station at Preda.
Train: Bergün to Preda – 17 minutes and leaves regularly throughout the day. See sbb.ch for details. The Albula Pass road is closed to traffic during the winter months.
2. Thermal Baths in the Lower Engadin and Viamala Region
Engadin Bad Scuol(Bogn Engiadina) in the Upper Engadin
Inside the Bogn Engiadina, Image by Anita Leggett
The town of Scuol is the biggest town in the Lower Engadin Valley. It takes a bit of effort to get here but the journey through wild landscapes and past idyllic villages; as well as the magical views, from the baths themselves, are all good reasons to come.
What is available at the Scuol baths*
Panorama pool, approx. 33 ° C
Exercise and therapy pool, 33 ° C
Brine pool – 2% brine, approx. 33 ° C
Whirlpool – approx. 36 ° C
Grottos – Cold water, 18 ° C and warm water grotto, 36 ° C
We stayed in Andeer for a ski week in 2018 and found these mineral baths around the corner from our accommodation. We often went there in the evenings. I think I enjoy the thermal baths as much as the skiing!
The Andeer Mineral Baths are found in the small, typical Graubünden village of Andeer. This is an ideal place if you are looking for peace and quiet. They have cobbled streets and a pretty town center with a welcoming bakery. The buses leave from this area regularly to Splügen Tambo ski resort which can be reached in 13 mins or 15 minutes by car.
What is available at the Andeer baths*
One indoor and one outdoor mineral pool (good size) – both with bubble, whirlpool & neck shower
Constant 34 degrees
Evening light display in the outdoor pool
Wellness
Finnish sauna and bio sauna as well as a steam bath (currently reserved for women only from 6-9 pm).
Splash and Spa Tamaro Abo – 20% off ski pass (see website for details)
*As of Dec 2023
For up-to-date information and a funny video go to their website. Also, theSplügen Tambowebsite gives more information about the Splash and Spa Tamaro discount (20% off your day ski pass with entry to the spa).
Some lesser-known ski resorts in canton Graubünden – great for beginners
Splügen Tambo Ski Area – great skiing for beginners. Photo: A. Leggett
If you want to have a go at skiing far from the crowds. I recommend these small lesser-known ski slopes, also in canton Graubünden, that offer great practice runs for beginners – big or small.
Splügen – Tambo, The ski resort is close to Andeer and offers a wide variety of beginner & family slopes. Splügen is also a lovely, well-preserved historical town, across the road from the resort.
Tip: Book ski passes online, ski during the week or low season for lower prices and the day passes are discounted when combined with entry to the Andeer thermal baths.
Bergün, Graubünden – 1 beginner and 1 blue slope – both small – They are really good for practice before going to the neighbouring slopes of Darlux ski area: 3 lifts & 25km of slopes.
Pany – tiny ski resort with plenty of room to practice. Photo: A.Leggett
Pany(in Luzein, Prättigau, Graubünden) – a tiny ski area with 1 (very long) T-bar lift, 1 children’s lift and 7 km of runs. It includes a small number of good-sized runs through trees to make it interesting. Also offers a ski school and a lovely restaurant with a terrace.
If you are looking for one of the most beautiful winter landscapes in Switzerland you cannot avoid the Upper Engadin. This wide valley sits at 1,800 metres above sea level and is equipped with many frozen lakes, wide sweeping slopes and craggy mountain ranges; pristine villages and glamourous towns – St Moritz is one of the most well-known. Winters here are a blessing for winter sport enthusiasts with regular low temperatures, keeping the landscape white and the lakes frozen.
Lake Silvaplana is a large lake battered by the Maloja winds that sweep over the lake around midday each day. This and the large expanse of snow-covered ice make this lake a mecca for snow-kite surfing enthusiasts. The good news is that it has become a major sport which means better training, and plenty of options for beginners upwards – this includes beginner skiers (understandably, you do need to stand and move confidently on skis).
Swiss Kite Centre and School
This is the home of kite surfing and snow kite surfing. The owner, Swiss-born Stefan Popprath taught his first student snowkiting in 1994 even before an official name was given to the sport.
He founded the centre after realised the Maloja wind and the location of the lake was perfect for kites and surfing so, after some inspiration from another adventurer, Reinhold Messner, and researching and testing equipment, he set up the kite surfing centre in the 1990s. Anything you need to know about the centre and the sport is available on his website or by visiting the sport centre itself.
The Locations and other activities
Swiss Kitesurf has three locations. The main one is at the centre on Lake Silvaplana, the others are Furtschella – 5 mins from the centre and the Bernina Pass 20 mins from the centre. The Kite Surfing Centre is part of Mulet sport centre which also has an ice-skating rink, hockey field and curling.
Information
Services
Kite Rental – Seetheir websitefor information on Kite rental and schooling.
Food and Drink – Restaurant Mulets – Just above the kite surfing sports centre – with great views of the lake and mountains. See the kite sailing website for more information.
Getting There
Public Transport:Chur to Kite School Silvaplana train/bus journey time: 2 hours 30 mins with changes. St. Moritz by bus 17 minutes including an 8-minutewalk from the bus stop. See sbb.ch for timetables.
The 2.5 km Via da Glatsch ice-skating trail runs alongside the River Inn and links the villages of Zuoz to Madulain. These two traditional villages have stunning architecture and sit in a sunny part of the Engadin valley. Even though these villages are only around 25 minutes by train from the extravagant St. Moritz, they feel a world away. Zuoz is pretty and quiet with local produce and traditions everywhere. The tourist information offers a walking tour of the town with details about the history of different buildings and the everyday lives of the people living in this part of the Upper Engadin Valley.
Another Ice-Skating option – Lake St. Moritz (St. Moritzersee).
Glamorous people sparkle this time of year in St. Moritz. Some do literally sparkle and it can be blinding. Apart from this side of St. Moritz, there are some very cool groomed ice-skating tracks on the lake. They are nice and wide and you always have the option to rest in the snow at the side. This is such an idyllic location and it is difficult not to be impressed.
Information
Services for Ice-Skating Trail
Skate Rental – Willy Sport in Zuoz; Colamo Sport in La Punt Chamues-ch; Promulins Arena, Samedan
Admission Cost:- CHF5
Getting There
Train: St. Moritz – Madulain 21 mins; St.Moritz – Zuoz – 26 mins hourly changing at Samedan.
Sledding in the Bernese Oberland’s Reichenbach Valley
The Bernese Oberland’s Rychenbach River Valley connects the Meiringen region to the Grindelwald region. This valley gains altitude from Meiringen to the Grosse Scheidegg Pass.
The Reichenbach Valley
One of the oldest and best-preserved funiculars in Switzerland climbs from Meiringen village up to the alpine valley. The valley gradually gains altitude from the top of the funicular to Grosse Scheidegg (850 m – 1962 m) and is surrounded by views of dramatic mountains.
The valley has forests, wide open fields, theRosenlaui Gorge and the impressive Reichenbach River. Little hamlets and the romanticRosenlaui Hotel can be found along the way. The Post Bus is one of the few forms of transport that can use the small windy road without restrictions.
Where to Sled
This kind of landscape is perfect for winter sledding. The post bus travels from Meiringen up to the valley’s highest point – Grosse Scheidegg. From here it is an exciting 5.5 km ride on the sled down to the hamlet of Schwarzwaldalp where the bus once again takes you and your sled up to start all over again.
The views are amazing with the run at the foot of the dramatic Wetterhorn and the Horn range of mountains.
Experience Needed:Suitable for both novices and experienced riders.
Tip. There are also many snowshoe trails in the Reichenbach Valley.
Information
Services
Sled Rental– from the Chalet-Hotel Schwarzwaldalp. Food and Drink – there are restaurants and services at both ends of the sled run – Schwarzwaldalp and Grosse Scheidegg.
Getting There
Public Transport – Interlaken to Meiringen
Sledding – A special Schlitten (sled) Bus runs regularly from Meiringen to Schwarzwaldalp and then up to Grosse Scheidegg.
Operating times 2023/2024
Daily: from 26th December 2023 to 7th January 2024
Thursday to Sunday: from 11th January to 3rd March 2024
Velogemel is a cross between a bike and a sled. Now used as an adrenalin-fuelled activity, this contraption was originally meant as an everyday way of getting about in the winter months for the locals. Developed and patented by Christian Bühlmann from Grindelwald back in 1911, it was known as a “single-track steerable sled”.
The Velogemel toboggan run is the bottom part of the Big Pintenfritz tobogganing run which is considered the longest in Europe at 15 km and is classed as difficult. So think carefully before attempting it.
Where the Velogemel run starts and finishes
Starts: At Bussalp (1,800 m). The stunning views from Bussalp include the world-famous Alp trio – Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. The descent gives an adrenalin hit in terms of speed and balance and is definitely a very original and adventurous way to fly down a mountain.
Finishes: In either Grindelwald,Weidli (2.5 km northwest of the train station) or Grindelwald Village depending on the conditions. (See Info section below for more details).
Tip 1: If you only want to watch these bike-sleds in action, the Velogemel World Championships take place at the beginning of February every year (since 1996) – the races start from Bussalp.
Tip 2:It is better to do the run in the morning as the snow can get soft and sludgy later in the day.
Tip 2: There are also plenty of other toboggan runs with all levels of difficulty starting from or going through Bussalp. See this link for more information – Grindelwaldbus.
“City Run – The Classic” Toboggan Run, Bussalp – Weidli
Information
Services
Velogemel Rental – Rent from either Grindelwald railway station, Kaufmann Sport in Grindelwald centre or Ski service Egger at Grindelwald Grund, then take the bus from the train station to Bussalp at 1800 m. Food and Drink – Bergrestaurant (mountain restaurant) Bussalp.
Getting There
GrindelwaldBus line 126 from Grindelwald train station to Bussalp. Toboggan run stops in Weidli, above Grindelwald village. Buses regularly leave from Weidli back up to Bussalp.
Cantons Lucerne and Schwyz
7. Winter Hiking and snowshoe trails
Winter Hiking on the sunny Ibereregg Pass, high above Schwyz township.
Ibergeregg Pass looking towards Lake Lucerne, Photo by A.Leggett
Tucked in between Lakes Lucerne and Lake Zürich is the wonderful Mythen region of foothills and mountains. IbergereggPass is part of the mountainous area connecting the Einsiedeln region (close to Zürich) and the Rotenflue mountain, above the town of Schwyz (close to Lake Lucerne).
This is a great place to get above the clouds and walk out in the open and through fir trees to Berggasthäuser (mountain restaurants) and Beizlis (small eateries). There are often views of the lakes or, like in this photo, a blanket of clouds.
Mythen Region
The Mythen region is an alpine region that encompasses the Ibergeregg Pass, the dramatic GrosseMythen mountain (1,898 m) and the Rotenflue mountain (1,571 m). This is where you will find a wide, undulating landscape with dramatic mountains, meadows, moorlands and woods – a paradise for walking, winter sports and trying out the local produce.
Hiking and snowshoe trails – Ibergeregg Pass
Ibergeregg Pass is a good place to try out some winter walks and snowshoe trails as there is a good network of national routes and local routes starting here. Also, there are many mountain restaurants and inns in this region and the routes pass right past a few of them. They often have outdoor terraces and are well-signposted.
Information
Travelling to Rotenflue from Lake Lucerne: Train/Bus to Rychenbach (a suburb of the Schwyz township); then Rotenflue cable car – 1 hour 25 minutes including changes.
Travelling to Ibergeregg Pass from Zürich: Train to Schwyz, change at Arth Goldau; then bus to Ibergeregg Pass (505) – 1 hour 40 mins including changes.
Region of Einsiedeln/Oberiberg: These are starting points for the Hoch Ybrig ski resort, then bus 505 leaves from Oberiberg – 12 minutes.
Rigi mountain range – gentle slopes overlooking Lake Lucerneon one side and Lake Zug on the other
A natural border between the lower, flatter Swiss Mittelland that runs in a northwesterly direction and the summits of the Swiss Alps, Rigi is considered one of the most classic panorama mountains in Switzerland. Rigi summit, topped by Rigi Kulm, rises between Lake Zug (Zugersee) and Lake Lucerne (Vierwaldstättersee).
Winter WalkingTrails
There are several winter walks and snowshoe trails spread along Rigi’s peaks and slopes and they are all well connected by a network of public transport.
Winter Walking –Rigi Panorama Path
Rigi Kaltbad, on the Lake Lucerne facing slope, has a small station for the historical mountain railway and is home to the Mineralbad & Spa– sublime thermal baths with a view.
A gentle walk from the main summit, Rigi Kaltbad to Rigi Scheidegg offers plenty of superb lookout points in all directions.
Hike Distance: approx.7.9 km
Level: Medium
Finish: Rigi Scheidegg
Duration: 2 hrs
Type of Walk: Point-to-Point
AscentDescent: 250/136 m
Start: Rigi Kaltbad
This winter route is called the Panoramaweg (Panorama Walk). It doesn’t have any steep sections – just a long gentle ascent from 1,424 m to 1,641 m over 8 km. It can be walked in both directions, in sections or used for walking to one of the mountain restaurants’ panorama terraces.
Information
This walk starts and finishes with different means of ascent/descent as follows:
Rigi Kaltbad:
Lake Lucerne/Vitznau: mountain rail
Lake Lucerne/Weggis: cable car
Lake Zug side/Arth Goldau: mountain rail
Rigi Scheidegg:
From Rigi Scheidegg to Kräbel: mountain rail – linking with mountain railway to Arth Goldau, (Lake Zug side).
From Rigi Scheidegg to Kräbel: mountain railway to Rigi Kulm (peak) then to Vitznau by mountain train or Weggis by cable car (Lake Lucerne).
Websites:sbb.chfor boat/train/mountain rail links and Rigi for cable car information and further winter walks, snowshoe trails, toboggan runs etc.
Understanding Winter Signposts
Sledding Guidelines
Links
Winter trails are clearly visible in a snowy environment
Pink signposts and arrows are used for winter walking, hiking or snowshoe trails and the turquoise signs represent cross-country skiing.
Snow Shoe Trails
Snowshoe trails are pink with a snowshoe symbol. If the trail is a national route, then it indicates the name and number of the route with a dark pink background.
WinterHiking Routes
The national routes are marked with the relevant number on a light pink background
Winter trails sometimes have a symbol that indicates what kind of walk it is – light walk or hike. In this case, it is an 8 km hike that ascends 340 m.
Good to know: Pink poles line both sides of the trails and it is important to stay within these poles as ski pistes often zig-zag beside, through and past the winter hiking routes.
Local Routes
Many local councils have created winter trails – sometimes groomed, sometimes not but definitely a unique way of seeing the villages from a different perspective (this one is above Bergün in the Albula Pass).
These are normally pink with a white snowflake.
Cross-Country Skiing Signs
Cross-country skiing signposts and route indicators are turquoise. However, this road sign is pretty clear – you are about to cross a cross-country skiing track.
Restaurant and Guesthouse Signs
Beizli – small eatery serving local products,
Bergrestaurant – mountain restaurant
Bergasthaus – mountain guest house and restaurant
Alpwirtschaft – a small family-owned restaurant often part of a farm or cheese dairy (may not be open in summer).
Alpstubli – Look and feel of a traditional mountain restaurant – often large and associated with a ski area.
My Favourite Sign – made by my kids.
Sledding Guidelines
Small toboggan run in Oberiberg, canton Schwyz. Photo A.Leggett
What to wear –
Always wear good winter boots with a solid sole and plenty of tread. Your boots are used for braking and steering.
Ski helmet.
Waterproof gloves, ski pants and ski jacket
Scarf ( tucked in of course)
Small backpack
Goggles or good sunglasses
How to use the wooden Davos sleds –
Leg position – Legs should be bent and facing forward. Hold onto the reins and lean back. On straight and flat sections of the run, the feet can rest on the runners.
Steering – Steer with both your boots and body – When steering to the left, simply put your left foot out into the snow and the same with a right turn, right foot. Also, lean your body in the direction you are turning (into the corner).
Braking –
When the terrain flattens out put both feet flat on the snow to slow down or stop.
When on the slope, dig your heels into the snow to slow down and brake.
If you need to brake on steep terrain, pull up the front of the sled with the reins. The more you pull, the more you will brake.
When the run becomes steep it is better to sit in the rear of the sled.
Rules of sledging
Show consideration for others
Adapt speed and driving style to ability
Respect the lane of the vehicle in front
Overtake with distance
Look up before entering and approaching the road
Stop at the edge
Get on and off at the edge
Observe signs and markings
German words for communicating when sledding
Sledding/sled – schlitten fahren/ der Schlitten
Sled rental – Schlitten mieten.
Watch out! – Achtung! or aufpassen!
I am passing! – Ich gehe durch! or Achtung!
Further Links
Swiss Mobility has a listing of around 100 toboggan runs with filter options for level of difficulty. Go to the link here to take a look – Schwiezmobil.
schlitten.ch is a great website, in German and English, which offers advice on different types of sledand how to get around the corners without falling off.
After spending a few hours hiking on an alpine trail that goes through meadows and forests; under overhanging rocks, across streams and through high valleys, it is such a wonderful feeling when the magical Oberblegisee alpine lake appears in front of you mirroring the surrounding mountain peaks.
The only access to the lake is with a gondola ride and then hiking and biking trails – keeping it well hidden.
The Walk
The walk to the lake and then to the Brunnenberg cable car takes approx. 3 hours with stops. The start is mainly flat then it goes up and down a bit before reaching the lake. A grill spot with views, a simple restaurant serving regional products and 2 self-service alpine cheese dairies are found along the route. Good to Know: They only accept cash and sometimes the TWINT app.
Getting to the Trail
The trip up the mountain starts at Linthal in the Glarus valley. This valley branches off just before Lake Walen (Walensee) and is reached by exiting the main motorway from Zürich at Glarus/Näfels (No. 44 off-ramp). The region, which includes the UNESCO World Heritage Sardona Tectonic Arena, is called Glarnerland.
Good to Know: The national public transport system (sbb.ch) offers a combi-deal – a discount when booking the complete trip through them. Get more information here.
Directions are as follows:
At Linthal Braunwaldbahn take the funicular to the car-free village of Braunwald.
Walk approx. 10-minutes to the Hüttenberg – Grotzenbüel gondola
When arriving at the Grotzenbüel ski and hiking area, look for the yellow sign (with white/red/white mountain trail markings) to OberblelgiseeRundweg.
The hiking trail ends at the Luchsingen gondola station that will take back down the valley to the Brunnenberg train station.
For more details on the funicular, gondolas(operating times), hiking trail and what time of year to do it see the Getting There section below.
The Trail
Distance: 8 km (from gondola to gondola)
Takes: approx. 3 hrs with stops.
Ascent: 77 m
Descent: 540 m
After leaving the top station of the Grotzenbüel gondola, the first part of the walk is alongside rolling pastures and forested areas with great views of the mountain range on the other side of the valley.
In the summer the dairy farms are busy making dairy products that can be enjoyed at small restaurants and Käserei (cheese dairies) throughout the whole walk.
Walking in the Glarus Mountains to Oberblegi Lake (Oberblegisee)
A lovely thick forest with wild mushrooms and ferns opens out to a wide valley. From here the trail winds uphill to a pretty little Beizli (small farm restaurant) which has a small but very tasty menu of local ingredients.
Then the wonderful Lake Oberblegisee with plenty of places for a picnic or, if you are brave, a swim.
Getting There
Hüttenberg-Grotzenbüel gondola also runs in winter for winter sports
Take the LinthalValley to Braunwaldfunicular, then walk to Hüttenberg for the gondola to Grotzenbüel to begin the walk (1,559 m).
The trail ends at the Brunnenberg cable car that travels down to the Luchsingen Valley.
In the warmer months, this alpine valley in the Swiss Alps is accessible by bus and on foot. In winter when the valley is covered in snow it is possible to do the legendary 5.5 km sled run from Grosse Scheidegg, down through the valley to Schwarzwaldalp.
The Bernese Oberland offers some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in Europe while quietly keeping the Alpine farming traditions and heritage alive. When walking in the upper valley that runs between Meiringen to Grindelwald, you feel as if you have come to a truly authentic part of Switzerland. This valley offers vistas of mighty peaks, moorlands, mossy forests, tiny hamlets with traditional farms, and country Inns.
The sound of cowbells, the wild Rychenbach river, waterfalls and the sing song warning from the Post Bus as it navigates the tight bends on the valley road all remind you exactly where you are – so typically Swiss.
Where to Start
Summer
From Meiringen – Daily bus services from 18th May 2023 – 22 October 2023
Option 1: Walking the official Via Alpina trail which rises 400m/3 km from Meiringen township to the valley.
Option 2: Take the nostalgic cog railway up this section. This runs alongside the very famous 300-metre-high Reichenbach Falls. Made famous by Arthur Conan Doyle’s short story The Final Problem where Sherlock Holmes and Professor Moriarty fight on the ledge overlooking the falls.
Winter
From Meiringen – The bus timetable can be found at postauto.ch.
Toboggan Run: 5.5 km sled run from Grosse Scheidegg down to Schwarzwaldalp, then bus back to Meiringen.
Distances
Meiringen – Grosse Scheidegg Pass
Length: 15km Ascent: 1400m (from top of cog train 1,100 m)
Grosse Scheidegg Pass – Grindelwald
Length: 8km Descent: 930 m
Ways of seeing the area – from May to October
From mid-May to mid-October the yellow post buses help you getthrough the valley.
Options: 1. Walk 2. Take the bus 3. Walk and take the bus
There are plenty of places on the walk which move away from the road. Even so, there are around 10 bus stops along the route from the top of Reichenbach Fallsin Meiringen to Grosse Scheidegg.
The Grindelwald Bus goes from Grosse Scheidegg down to Grindelwald, taking about 30 mins.
Good to Know:Private cars are not allowed to drive over the Grosse Scheidegg Pass without a permit.
Pit Stops
The lovingly restored 18th-century Rosenlaui Hotel (12th May – 15th October) comes as a big surprise when seeing it for the first time. Up until arriving at this point we only saw traditional buildings. I thought we had perhaps taken the wrong turn and were heading into Grindelwald or Interlaken but no, this lovely and inviting Inn is in the middle of this valley.
Standing at the entrance to the Rosenlaui Gorge, this well-preserved hotel was built after an influx of 18th-century artists and poets fell in love with the region and needed somewhere to stay.
Note: There are no TVs or wifi in the building and there is a photo-free zone in all public areas. I didn’t realise this when taking the photo above…
The track starts in Willingen in Meiringen and climbs approx. 300 metres to the alpine valley alongside the Reichenbach Falls. The other option, the very civilised historical cog railway built in 1899, slowly takes you up the steep slope to the edge of the falls.
We used the cog railway for this walk for two reasons – a better view of the falls and an easy start to the 1,100-metre ascent to Grosse Scheidegg (we were determined to do this section without taking the bus).
Starting the walk
From the pretty village of Zwirgi, the trail goes gradually uphill through a forest beside the road, and for a short time, on the road. The track then leads deeper into the forest and then out to wide meadows with the iconic Wellhorn mountain dominating the skyline.
This grill has the best views you could ask for. I loved the rustic wooden shelter which seemed to have everything needed for a grill – seating, frypans, tongs and even an axe! We were tempted to stop but knew the Rosenlaui Hotel was close. We really felt like a cold drink, so after taking a few photos we moved on.
The Rosenlaui Hotel is gorgeous – lovely staff and an amazing setting. After a quick look at the little waterfall on the grounds of the Hotel (the waiter kindly let us know it was there), we made our way past the Rosenlaui Glacier Gorgeentrance – (a possible side trip), through a very mossy forest to the little hamlet of chalets at Schwarzwaldalp.
The final stage of this walk passes through wild woodlands with jaw-dropping views of the Wellhorn mountains and the Wetterhorn.
At this point of the walk, the trail becomes very steep but luckily there are plenty of benches for resting and refueling.
We celebrated our achievement with a drink at the Berghotel Grosse Scheidegg, then caught the bus to Grindelwald. This 30-minute bus ride can be seriously panoramic – depending on the weather.
There are plenty of other walks from Grosse Scheidegg. A couple of options:
Continue down the valley to complete stage 10 of the Via Alpina trail.
Across to First with views of majestic mountains Eiger, Schreckhorn and Wetterhorn. (First also offers one of Grindelwald’s top five adventures – flying across a sun terrace while strapped into a harness).
Links to Swiss Mobility Map
Swiss Mobility has a well-detailed map with a height profile and tips on saving altitude. A link to the complete Stage 10 of the Via Alpina trail (Meiringen – Grindelwald) can be found here. It is possible to continue onwards by following the Via Alpina – offical walking route number 1. This Route crosses 14 Alpine passes, with a distance of 390 km and has 20 stages.
Exploring the Swiss region of Engelberg is a perfect way to lift your spirits while witnessing the living traditions found throughout the rugged mountainous region. A walking trail through the Engelberger Aa River Valley passes through farming meadows, past waterfalls and cheese dairies and, in the warmer months, cows munching on wildflowers.
As soon as you reach the top of the Fürenalp gondola, deep in the Engelberg valley, the views are instantly staggering with a wall of rugged mountains, a deep valley and pretty meadows all around. Switzerland’s signature bright yellow hiking signposts point to the dirt trails that wind around corners and up hills hinting at the possibilities of more spectacular panoramas.
My family and I travelled on the Fürenalp gondola in late summer when slate grey clouds were threatening us from a distance. We knew it was just a matter of time before they rolled in, bringing heavy rain and stormy weather. We had just enough time to get up the small gondola and have a quick look around. For me this was a good opportunity to show my two teenagers that this would be an exciting place to explore and hike around in the coming days of our holiday – it worked. They both made me promise we would come back for a proper hike the next day.
Stäuber Waterfall Panoramic Hike
A lovely downhill hiking trail is the Stäuber panorama hike(9.2 km, 3 hours, medium difficulty). It starts at the top of the Fürenalp gondola (1,850 m) and gradually winds down through rocky meadows and pastures that, during the warmer months, are home to wildflowers and cattle. At the Stäuber waterfall, the trail turns back towards Engelberg it then runs along theriver valley,back to the Fürenalp car park with an alternative shorter version using the smaller Äbnet gondola.
All in one – wildflowers, cows, waterfalls and mountains. Photo by A.Leggett
Good to Know: The high-altitude grazing and wildflower diet give the cow’s milk and the cheese a special flavour – so it is worth trying out a cheese platter at one of the mountain dairies or restaurants.
Making our way down to the valley from Fürenalp. Photo by A.Leggett
The path eventually reaches a small cluster of buildings that are made up of the Surenen Kaserei (cheese dairy) and Usser Äbnet cable car– a possible shortcut option.
Äbnet Bahn, Alpkäse trail.Image from Engelberg Tourism
This shortcut would mean missing out on the lovely Stäuber waterfall that is tucked into the landscape at the turning point of this walk. From here there are also further walks to the wild Surenen Pass.
Looking towards the Surenen Pass with the pretty Stäuber waterfall below. Photo by A.Leggett
The waterfall is the point where the trail heads back toward Engelberg and Fürenalp cable car valley station. After zig-zagging down to the valley and passing over trickling springs, the trail runs alongside the wide, shallow Engelberger Aa River.
Hay-making involves special gondolas that help transport large bundles of hay down the steep terrain. Some of these “Burdi” (bale of hay in Swiss German) weigh around 60 kg so the farmers need all the help they can get with this back-breaking job.
Shaded spots can be found alongside the river.Photo by A.Leggett
We found this picnic spot by the river – massive boulders and trees provided lounging areas and shade.
From here the path passes some places offering food and drink (see below) and then crosses fields before reaching the cable car station’s carpark and bus stop – beware of the paragliders landing. I remember running through the fields to get out of their way (probably not a good idea) before finishing the walk – a last burst of energy. Am sure we didn’t need to worry, they seemed to have their landings all under control.
It is obviously important to respect the natural environment and farming areas by sticking to the trails. The farmers that graze their stock around the meadows in this area work hard to ensure the natural environment is protected, therefore, any visitors to the area need to do the same thing.
Food stops and other activities in the area
Alp Käserei and Beizli – (alpine cheese dairies and small restaurants)
The alpine cheese dairies (Alpkäserei) can be found dotted throughout the mountains in this region (open from mid-May to October) with the dairy products coming straight from the cows seen in the surrounding meadows. Two found on this hike areSurenenAlpkäserei which is part of the Äbnet gondola´s top station and Alpkäserei & Berggasthaus Stäfelitucked away in the valley.
Bouldering at Äbnet:Image from Engelberg-Titlis Tourism
For the more adventurous there are Klettergärten (rock climbing areas), a rope park (Seilpark) and, for experienced climbers, the Via Ferrata climb which offers a much more challenging way of reaching the Fürenalp mountain restaurant.
The Engelberger Valley is farmed in a way that is in harmony with the landscape. Because of the steep alpine pastures, it is only possible to do the cutting, raking, and bundling of hay manually – a system of farming that also contributes to the land’s biodiversity and protection.
Often the slopes on the Stanserhorn, Haldigrat and around Engelberg are even too steep for grazing – not sure how they discovered that – a cow avalanche maybe?
The Buiräbähnli gondolas are heavily relied on by farmers around the Engelberg valley. Photo by A.Leggett
The tradition of manually cutting, with hand sharpened scythes, and transporting the hay for the coming winter is known as “wild haymaking”. For hundreds of years, strong farmers have risked life and limb to work on the steep slopes high up from the valley floor and small open gondolas that look like awkwardly formed trailers have been relied on for shifting the hay, milk containers and sometimes people. These rustic lifts are called “Buiräbähnli” – a word that is almost impossible to pronounce by anyone that is not Swiss. If you look hard enough you will find them all over – their lines stretching up hills, mountains and across wide rivers beds. Nowadays it is possible to have a ride in some of the enclosed Buiräbähnliif you have a good head for heights.
Zürich Main Station:– Train to Engelberg (change at Lucerne) and shuttle bus from Engelberg to Fürenalp, 2 hours 15 mins. Check bus timetable on fürenalp.ch website as limited service in autumnand no service during the winter months.
LucerneMain Station:– Train to Engelberg and shuttle bus from Engelberg to Fürenalp, 1 hour 15 mins. Check bus timetable on fürenalp.ch website as limited service in Autumnand no service during the winter months.
By Car to Fürenalp gondola carpark:
Zürich centre:– 90km via A4, around 1 hour 20 mins depending on traffic
Forget the glitzy Swiss lakeside or mountaintop resorts, the 12 UNESCO World Heritage Sites are the real Swiss treasures. Wherever you are in Switzerland, you are bound to be close to one of these Swiss treasures thanks to the extensive Swiss public transport system, network of tunnels and the way they happen to be scattered throughout the country. Some are found near cities, or in places popular with tourists while others are much more remote and need a bit more effort to reach, however, it’s still worth adding them to your itinerary as the surrounding regions are also extraordinary.
The Irish monk Gallus laid the Abbey’s foundation stone in 612. Around 100 years later, the monastery adopted the rule of Saint Benedict and transformed it into an important centre for writing activities and book illumination. Over time, the library became one the best stocked and oldest libraries in the world – now under the care of the Abbey District, who look after the archives, the library and the cathedral.
Why a World Heritage Site?
The decision to make this Abbey complex into a UNESCO World Heritage site was down to the rich traditions and the well-preserved collections that date back to the 8th Century.
The Abbey Library
The Abbey Library at St. Gallen, photo by Switzerland Tourism
The Abbey‘s lavish Rococo library is full of treasures. Not only is it a feast for the eyes, but it also is home to around 170,000 books and some of the most important collections of medieval manuscripts in Europe – ones you may have heard about in history class for example. This collection dates back 1300 years – to when the abbey was originally founded.
In the middle of the 18th century, the abbots started a cabinet of curiosities with a collection of art, science and nature. The collection includes paintings, astronomical instruments and fossils. One example that takes pride of place is a huge terrestrial and celestial globe (1571), which is part of the ‘East India Collection’. Later additions, that stand out when you wander around the library, are the Egyptian mummies (7th century BC) which have to be seen to be believed.
Visiting the Library
The admission ticket, which is valid for three exhibitions, is recommended to be bought at the ticket office in the exhibition hall.
Getting There
The Abbey complex is made up of a Cathedral, the Abbey library and vaulted cellar, Kloster bistro, Charles‘ Gate and a government building and can be found in the lovely old town of Saint Gallen – also worth visiting for its attractive pedestrian area.
Public Transport
Zürich to St. Gallen: – 1 hr to 1 hr 13 mins, no changes.
By Car
From Zürich: – 93 km (approx. 1 hr 10 mins – 1 hr 25 mins) on the A1 motorway.
2. Benedictine Convent of St. John in Müstair
Müstair
Müstair village is tucked far away in the Val Müstair, found deep in the most eastern part of Graubünden, close to the border with Italy. In the local Romansch, the language unique to Graubünden, Müstair is equivalent to Minster in English – both correspond to the word monastery.
The Monastery Complex
The monastery complex was founded in the 8th Century and is steeped in legend and mystery. According to a well-known legend, Charlemagne was responsible for the founding of the convent. It is said that he was so grateful for his survival after walking away unharmed from a large snowstorm in the area, that he gave instructions for the monastery to be constructed. This complex has only been partially destroyed over the centuries and now has building styles and art treasures from several eras. Nuns have lived in the convent since the 12th century. Convent life, cultivation, the museum and the restoration come together, turning this site into something very special.
Convent Museum
The convent’s museum can be found in the monastery’s fortified Planta Tower (10th century). It holds over 1200 years of art and cultural history within its walls. The Benedictine nuns of Müstair also allow visitors a glimpse inside the convent to see their daily life.
Museum visit
The museum is very atmospheric, giving an authentic peek into the convents past, starting in the cloister, then going through to the vast cellar of the Planta Towerbefore continuing up three floors. A ‘convent within the convent’ is housed in the tower and has living areas, sleeping quarters and prayer areas.
UNESCO World Heritage Site
A deciding factor for listing the complex as a UNESCO World Heritage Site was down to the wonderfully preserved frescos found in the convent church which dates back to the early middle ages. These are considered to be one of the largest and best-preserved fresco cycles around today.
Found in canton Graubünden, the Rhaetian Railway brings together two historic railway lines that cross the Swiss Alps through two passes – Albula and Bernina.
AlbulaPass Line
Opened in 1904, the Albula line in the northwestern part is 67 km long and features an impressive set of structures including 42 tunnels, covered galleries and 144 viaducts and bridges.
Bernina Pass Line
The 61 km Bernina pass line winds its way through 13 tunnels and galleries and over 52 viaducts and bridges.
Achievements
The railway was built to overcome the isolation of settlements in the Central Alps early in the 20th century. Today these two lines are now a single transalpine line.
The complete Rhaetian Line shows outstanding technical, architectural, environmental and civil engineering achievements which have resulted in the railway lines staying in harmony with the natural landscapes they pass through.
This description was sourced by text from whc.unesco.org, under license CC-BY-SA IGO 3.0.
Bernina Express & Glacier Express Panorama Trains
Good to Know: A great opportunity to discover the World Heritage line and visit some incredible landscapes is to travel on theBernina Expresspanorama train. This service runs all year from Chur to Thusis, then along the World Heritage route, through to the Poschiavo Valley with its dramatic alpine scenery, and then on to Tirano, Italy. The Glacier Express runs from Zermatt, through the Rheinschlucht (known as the Grand Canyon of Switzerland), with various stops, then finally down through the Albula Pass – running for 10 months of the year (no service from mid-Oct to mid-Dec).
The line of the Rhaetian railway between Thusis and Tirano (Italy) – World Heritage route.
Getting There
Public Transport
To Thusis: from Chur – 30-35 mins without changes. From Zürich – approx. 2 hrs 10 mins, changing at Chur.
By Car from Chur – 26 km (approx. 22 mins on Autobahn). From Zürich – 144 km (approx. 1 hr 30 mins on Autobahn).
4. Old city of Berne
Bern’s old town status as a World Heritage site is down to its impressive town planning along with the continuous restoration and protection of the medieval structure and buildings.
Bern’s Historical Centre
The city of Bern was built in the 12th Century on a hillside surrounded by the Aare River. It was developed with a special design made up of long rows of buildings, shaped to fit into the curve of the river. 15th-century arcades and 16th-century fountains were added and, in the 18th Century, most of the medieval centre was restored but, luckily, it has retained its original character which includes the many elegant arches that can be found throughout.
Nowadays, the old town of Bern has the longest covered shopping arcade in Europe – great news for rainy days!
The Mighty Bear
You will probably discover the symbol of Bern quite quickly – the mighty bear. It’s found on the canton’s flag, the sides of buildings and in the souvenir shops, in fact, bears have been kept in Bern for hundreds of years, finally moved from the city to Bear Pits on the banks of the Aare river in 1857… This controversial home finally changed in 2009 when a large park was built for them. The much-needed new habitat is designed on several levels and includes a section of the riverbank, leafy green spaces, tunnels and caves for hibernation. You can see them from high up on the Nydegg Bridge (at the end of the old town) or close up from the park. For more information and webcams go to the park’s website here.
Zytglogge (clock tower)
Zytglogge clock tower
This iconic clock tower has been around for centuries and has had many uses, including a prison.
Every hour, on the hour, there is a display of dancing bears, a court jester and a rooster doing their thing on the outside of the clock tower – attracting crowds of tourists to this part of the old town in summer.
Clock Tower Tour
The inside isn’t open for individual visits but it’s possible to do a 1-hour tour to see the inner workings and learn about its past. Public tours don’t run daily and are limited to once a week in winter, so it pays to check out the website and book before going. Good to Know: There are 130 steps to the top but you are rewarded with a view of Bern’s old town, and the Alps (weather permitting).
Getting There
Public Transport
To Bern Main Station: From Basel – 1 hr 5 mins, express trains with no change. Zürich – 1 hr – 1 hr 35 mins, express trains with no change. Lucerne – 1 hr 6 mins – 1 hr 30 mins (dep. on service), no change.
By Car
Central Bern:Basel – 95 km (approx 1 hr 10 mins). Zürich via A1 – 125 km (approx. 1 hr 30 mins). Lucerne via A2 & A1 – 110 km (approx 1 hr 20 mins).
The medieval castles of Bellinzona – Castelgrande, Montebello and Sasso Corbaro – have been listed as a Swiss UNESCO World Heritage since 2000. They are found in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino, south of the Alps and are impossible to miss when passing through. Castelgrande sits on a rocky peak with fortified walls running from the castle, built to protect the ancient town and block passage through the valley. The castle of Montebello was built as part of this fortification, whereas Sasso Corbaro stands alone on another rocky high point.
A bit of history
Bellinzona occupied a strategic position between north and south which is the reason these castles were built in the first place. The Dukes of Milan went to a lot of trouble to bar the Swiss from travelling south into his territory.
Over the centuries, the castles have been reconstructed and restored many times. Evidence has been found that fortifications were built on this site in the 4th Century B.C, however, the three castles and their walls were constructed in the 14th Century.
Good to Know: There was once an Alpine Arc of medieval military architecture comprising of several castles, linked by a wall that once closed off the whole Ticino Valley for the protection of the civilian population. The Swiss Confederates must have been quite a threat for them to go to such lengths. These castles and fortifications are the only remaining visible evidence of this Arc.
Further Information
Bellinzona & Valli website for open times and booking tickets (including information on the Bellinzona Pass and Railway combi ticket – both offer price reductions)- Note: Castelgrande is the only castle open during the winter.
Locations of Bellinzona Train Station and the 3 Castles
The vineyard terraces spread out on the steep slopes above Lake Geneva were originally created during the 11th century by monks. Generations of wine growers have been taking care of them ever since. The original terraces and stone walls that stretch for over 30 km have been carefully preserved, fitting seamlessly into the steep, wide slopes that rise up from the soft blue waters of Lake Geneva.
Vineyardsand seeing the Villages
Known as the Lavaux vineyards, the UNESCO vineyard terraces are found between Lausanne and Montreux and are home to 14 unspoiled villages. Residents of this area have been working together in harmony with the landscape for hundreds of years.
The vineyards benefit from the “three suns” – the sun itself, the sun’s rays reflected by the lake and the warmth stored in the walls of the vineyards.
There are networks of walking and biking trails as well as panorama, express and local train lines that snake their way across the landscape.
Some good ways to experience the area are:
Lavaux UNESCO Vineyard Walk
St. Saphorin village in the Lavaux Region
This 10 km circular walk links the region’s villages of Chexbres, Saint-Saphorin, Rivax and Epesses and can be started from any of the villages’ train stations. For more information go to the Vaud Tourism website which offers both a detailed map and guide to the walk, or you can download the Vaud: Guide – a free app that guides you around the route. The App also offers informative tidbits along the way and doesn’t require an internet connection – GPS is used.
You can hop on/off the regional train line that runs along Lake Geneva, shortening the circuit at Saint-Saphorin, Rivaz or Epesses.
Length and recommended time
Just over 10 km. Allow for around five hours – (walking and stops).
Fitness level and accessibility
Accessible to people with average fitness – the paths are all paved and are pushchair and wheelchair friendly although there are some steep parts.
Lavaux Express
When I think of express, I think of the fast, sleek Eurocity trains that whizz through this region from Geneva to the Valais region and then onwards to Italy.
The Lavaux Express is not that kind of express, instead, it is a small, open tourist ‘train’ with wheels that makes its way around narrow roads up amongst the vines – stopping regularly. During the journey, passengers hear about the region’s history, the vineyards, the characteristics that make it ideal for viticulture, and, of course, this trip offers plenty of spectacular views.
Good to Know: They still run on rainy days by using protective sheets, but the driver can cancel if the weather becomes stormy.
Some possible Excursions
Circular trips lasting 1 hour leave several times a day.
Caveau Train, which is all about wine tasting, visits one of the local vineyards for a 45-minute wine-tasting experience. It runs on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, leaving early evening. The duration is 2 hours. For operating times (2021 times – May to mid-Sept) visit the Lavaux Express website (below).
Autumn market train in October for the Sunday markets in the village of Aran.
For seasonal dates,schedule and reservation (recommended)and FAQ go to the website Lavaux Express.
Regional Trains
The regional train service passes through the towns of Epesses,Rivaz, Saint-Saphorin,Vevey then Vevey to Chexbres offering a great sightseeing alternative. Visit sbb.ch for more information. This website also offers maps for each service – in the timetable page add from/to then click on the departure time. The map link is shown in the This Connection box. It‘s a great way to visualise the villages and train lines.
The blue and yellow trains that service the Vevey to Chexbres section are known as “Le Train des Vignes” – the Wine Trains. These trains link Vevey to Puidoux via Chexbres and run hourly in each direction, taking about 15 minutes.
Good to Know: Vevey, an attractive lakeside town in its own right, was once home to Charlie Chapman. There is now a museum on his former country estate called Chaplin’s World.
By Public Transport:Geneva to Lausanne – Express Trains 35-45 mins/ Region Trains 48 mins. For regional train services from Vevey to the vineyard villages see the Regional Train info above.
By Car: Geneva to Lausanne – 66 km (approx. 55 mins); Bern to Lausanne via Vevey – 100 km
7. La Chaux-de-Fonds / Le Locle, Watchmaking Town Planning
Tucked between the hills north of Neuchâtel, the two towns of La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle really stand out. At first glance, they look a bit too uniform and stark with their grid-like design and uniform sized houses.
However, once you get into the towns themselves, you really see the dedication and craftsmanship that has gone into the construction of the buildings. If you would prefer museums, then visit the Espace de l’Urbanisme Horloger for a brief history of the town or the International Museum of time (Musée International d’Horlogerie) – the largest timekeeping collection in the world.
What’s so special about these two towns
The towns of La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle were reconstructed in the 19th Century solely for the watchmaking industry after both towns were badly damaged by fires. Many of the buildings have a combination of living quarters, workshops and offices.
They have been designated World Heritage sites in recognition of the watch-making industry successfully shaping and preserving the two towns to survive and thrive on only one manufacturing industry.
Some watch-making experiences found in the towns
Free multi-media exhibition about the watchmaking town planning – Espace de l’urbanisme horloger found in La Chaux-de-Fonds. According to the town’s website, this is a good place to start before touring the town.
Tourist train that travels through Le Locle from June to September, with commentary in English, French and German. (Doesn’t run in bad weather).
Musée International D’Horlogerie: The largest timekeeping collection in the world dedicated to the history of clock making with over 4,500 exhibits. Includes clocks, watches and tools from the 16th century.
Unique Open-air art in Le Locle – Exomusée
Artists from around the world have been using Le Locle’s buildings and inner-city spaces as a canvas to display their artwork for a few years. This ‘Urban Art’ project is spreading throughout the town with new pieces added each year. Some are abstract, some realistic, others offer illusions. Many of them are huge, covering the side of multi-story facades.
For more information including images, the street artists and a map with the locations go to the Exomusée website and the Le Locle tourism office in the town hall.
Getting there&Information
Public Transport
From Neuchatel: La Chaux-de-Fonds 27 mins / Le Locle 40 min; Lausanne: Intercity Train – La Chaux-de-Fonds 1 hr 12 mins/ Le Locle 1 hr 25 mins, changing at Neuchâtel; Bern: to Le Locle changing at La Chaux-de-Fonds – 1 hr 20 – 30 mins.; BetweenLa Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle: 9 mins by train.
By Car to La Chaux-de-Fonds (approx.)
From Bern: 1 hour – 68 km via Neuchâtel; Neuchâtel: 20 mins. – 20 km.
Le Locle: 12-20 mins, 9 km
Espacité Tower, La Chaux-de-Fonds; Photo by Christof Sonderegger; ┬®Tourisme neuchatelois_damier
Information Centre
La Chaux-de-Fonds – Tourism Information Centre can be found on the ground floor of the Espacité Tower – the circular tower that is often seen from arial photos of the town. Address: Espacité 1, 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds. 10 minutes walk from La Chaux-du-Fonds train station.
The series of pile dwelling sites are one of the most important archaeological sources for the study of early agrarian societies in Europe between 5,000 and 500 BC. The waterlogged conditions have preserved organic matter, helping with research & study of the Neolithic and Bronze Age history of Europe.
From the neolithic age to the Bronze age (between 4,400 & 750 BC) there were many settlements on the lakeshore and in bogs in the alpine regions. The simple houses were built on the shorelines with raised floors due to the regular flooding and waterlogged ground. A large concentration of these pile dwellings has been discovered on the shorelines of Lakes Neuchâtel, Murten (Morat) and Bielersee (Bienne).
The Laténium covers various stages of human evolution, starting from when Neanderthal man walked the earth, up to the Renaissance time in the middle ages. This archaeological park uses videos, models, sounds and items found by archaeologists in the area. There are also two large exhibits on display – a re-creation of a Bronze-Age House and a Roman flat-bottomed boat.
By visiting the room dedicated to these lake dwellings, you can immerse yourself into the everyday lives of the people that lived in these bronze and neolithic age settlements.
Getting there
The Laténium is located in Hauterive, on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel (3 km from the centre of Neuchâtel).
Public Transport
Train: Neuchâtel Gare to University with the funicular (FUNI). then 8 min bus trip (101) to Hauterive.
Boat: Neuchâtel‘s harbour to Hauterive. Currently free of charge from sprint to autumn (2022) – with return trip free when showing Laténium museum ticket.
By Car
Parking at the Port of Hauterive on the northeastern shore of Lake Neuchâtel – with small charge.
Walking and Bike: Neuchâtel to St-Blaise-Lac on the S5 train (direction Bern, 1 stop), then 20 minute walk along the edge of lake Neuchâtel.
9. The Architectural Work of Le Corbusier
Charles-Edouard Jeanneret-Gris (known as Le Corbusier), architect, town planner, painter and writer, was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds on October 6, 1887.
Corbusier first trained at the town’s school of art in 1902 where he became interested in architecture. He continued to train and learn while travelling around Europe including visits to Paris, Vienna, Berlin and Turkey.
During the 1920s, he became one of the most influential architects and urban planners of his century. In 1957 he was made a citizen of honour in his hometown, La Chaux-de-Fonds. If you want to discover Le Corbusier’s work pop into the information centre in La Chaux-de-Fonds for a guide to the locations of his first architectural works. In particular, the Villa Schwob or Turkish Villa, the Villa Jeanneret-Perret or White House (villa built for his parents) and the Villa Favre-Jacot in Le Locle all show different styles and designs he picked up when travelling around Europe.
The King of the concrete highrise
His theories lay the foundation for the Bauhaus Movement which was responsible for a burst of creativity that spread to places like Antwerp, Algiers, Stuttgart and Rio de Janeiro.
This group of architects are the main players behind the growth of giant concrete office blocks and high-rise apartments that can be seen on the horizons of many cities.
Later in his career, Corbusier moved to a more sculptural type of architecture. One of his last projects was the Carpenter Center at Harvard University.
Le Corbusier’s Failing
Unfortunately, as a strong supporter of far-right politics, Le Corbusier had a darker side. This has recently been acknowledged with several books published on his life and character. Two of the more critical books are: Le Corbusier, a cold vision of the world, by Marc Perelman and Un Corbusier, by Francois Chaslin.
Some Locations of Le Corbusier’s Workin Switzerland
Maison Blanche – Le Chaux-de-Fonds, built for his parents in 1912.
Anatole Schwob House (Turkish Villa) on at Rue du Doubs 167, La-Chaux-de-Fonds (1916–1918)
Unesco World Heritage Tectonic Arena Sardona – This area is as impressive as the name suggests. You can witness the incredible power and monumental forces that nature is capable of. Found in the cantonal border areas of Saint Gallen, Glarus & Graubünden, the Arena extends over more than 300 square kilometres. You can either do a tour with an expert or experience this area independently – go to unesco-sardona.ch for information.
The Glarus Overthrust
The Tectonic arena was formed by older rock from 250-300 million years ago being thrust up over much younger rock (35-50 million years ago). These rock formations, called the “Glarus overthrust”, demonstrate the power and movement of plate tectonics.
Interactive map created by unesco-sardona.ch
This is a great map to get an idea of the area and where you can go to learn more and view the arena’s dramatic scenery. The
interesting sights and viewpoints
geographic operations in the region
Points of interest reached by foot
The descriptions are all in german (Blick translates as View) however, they do have links to various pages and hikes – some may also need translating.
Most of the walks with good vantage points are more challenging so it is better to consult the information centres first before attempting them.
Tschinglen Cable Car – Elm
A great way to get straight to the heart of the arena!! The Tschinglen Gondola is open from Mid May to Mid October. Here is alink to the website (in german).
The Pizol 5-Lake Hike and Panorama walk
A much loved and popular Swiss excursion is the wonderful Pizol 5-lakes hike (done and loved it), on the western side of the Arena. The trail leads through a high plateau (2222 – 2507 metres) past 5 crystal-clear mountain lakes, with views as far away as Lake Constance in the northeast. The trail is open from July – Oct, although in winter it is possible to do the shorter Panorama trail as long as the Pizol cable cars and chair lifts are running. The starting point is from the top of the Wangs/Furt Gaffia cable car and chair lift.
Getting There and Information:
The interactive map above shows that ‘getting there’ covers a huge area with many possibilities.
A great source for hiking and sightseeing can be found on the UNESCO Sardona website’s page on top walks.
Various Information Centres are available to orientate you –
Tectonic Visitors Centre Glarus (closest commute from Zürich):
Zürich – GlarusTrain: 1 hr 3 mins, no changes. Car: 1 hr 10 mins (70 km)
Tectonic Visitors Pavillon Segneshütte – Flims (closest commute from Chur):
Chur – FlimsBus: – 35 – 50 mins by bus. Car: 1 hr 10 mins (70 km) – Once in Flims, take the Foppa cable car – go to the Flims/Laax/Falera website for operation times and prices.
For the Tschinglen Cable Car (mid May – mid Oct):
Zürich – Schwanden – ElmTrain: 2 hrs (change at Ziegelbrücke and Schwanden). In Elm get off at Bus Stop “Bahnhof“. Then follow the signs for 1,2 km to the valley station of the Tschinglenbahn (cable car). Car: 1 hr 30 mins
For the Pizol 5-lakes walk:
Zürich – Wangs (valley station) by train – 1 hour 10 mins, changing at Sargans.
Wangs to Pizol Hütte (2227m), 8-seater gondola and 4-seater chair lift Wangs – Furt – Gaffia – Pizolhütte (1 hour). or 8-seater gondola and 4-seater chair lift Bad Ragaz – Pardiel – Laufböden (1 hour). Round-trip ticket for the 5-lake walk available from Pizol railway. For opening hours, and more info on the walk go to the Pizol areas officialwebsite.
The pavilion is best reached via the Naraus mountain station with a 75 minutes hike. A shuttle and the Grauberg cable car can be used instead of walking.
The wooded mountain of Monte San Giorgio beside Lake Lugano is regarded as the best fossil record of marine life from the Triassic Period (245–230 million years ago), recording life in a tropical lagoon environment with different kinds of marine life flourishing, including reptiles and fish. Because the lagoon was near land, the remains include land-based fossils of reptiles, insects and plants, resulting in an extremely rich source of fossils.
UNESCO World Heritage Description, available under license CC-BY-SA IGO 3.0
Fossil Museum of Monte San Giorgio Meride, Ticino
The Museum of Fossils, found at the southern end of Monte San Giorgio, was open to the public in 2012 with modern and eye-catching displays spread over four floors. This is the best place to find fossils from the mountain and get a glimpse of what life was like a few hundred million years ago. Local architect – Mario Botta designed the museum and was also responsible for designing some astounding creations found around the world.
Made up of fossilized animals and plants from Monte San Giorgio, the exhibits include fish and reptiles from 240 million years ago – when the area was a subtropical sea basin. The careful preservation of the skeletons has made this mountain world-famous for its natural heritage.
Panorama terrace in Val Mara @FMSG
Trails around the mountain
A trail around the mountain has information panels and provides views of the rocks and excavations where fossils have been found.
Percorso Murat Pelit is a new 3.7 km trail for people with motor disabilities. Ticino-born Murat Pelit is a member of the Swiss Paralympic ski team amongst other achievements. His association, Ti-Rex Sport in conjunction with Medrisiotto Turismo, opened up a route for handbikes on Monte San Giorgio in May 2021.
The trail winds through woodland and has been tailored for use by three-wheeled mountain bikes which can be operated by hand. The circular tour departs from the Hotel Serpiano where the special bikes are also available for hire. This special trail and the bikes can be used by anyone interested in having a go.
Getting Around and Information:
By Public Transport: from Lugano – 45 minutes with 1 change; from Zürich – 1 hr 55 mins (through the Gotthard Base Tunnel).
By Car: from Lugano – 26 km, approx. 30 mins drive over Lake Lugano’s bridge at Melide; from Zürich to Lugano – 200 km
3. Swiss Alps – Jungfrau Aletsch Glacier
Aletsch Glacier, as seen from the southern edge, canton Valais
This part of the European Alps, one of the most spectacular mountain landscapes in the world, is home to well-known mountains such as Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. The Aletsch glacier is part of this landscape, taking up 824 km² of space close to the mountain’s peaks, it slowly edging its way from one side of the alps to another. According to the UNESCO World Heritage website, it is the largest glacier in Eurasia and is considered a natural wonder because of its beauty and the information it contains on the formation of mountains and glaciers. This Jungfrau-Aletsch website is great for facts and figures, information and videos.
Some of thereasons for the UNESCO classification:
The area is home to a wide range of alpine and sub-alpine habitats.
Ecosystems have evolved without significant human intervention.
Almost all of the area is under some form of legal protection.
It plays an important role in the study of climate change.
How to view the Aletsch Glacier
From the Bernese Oberland region –
Getting There and Tickets
Take the train from Interlaken Ost station to Lauterbrunnen or Grindelwald, then the rack railway up to Kleine Scheidegg. This is where the Jungfrau train will chug around the mountain, then through the mountain to Jungfraujoch.
Good to Know: Jungfraujoch is the highest railway station in Europe at 3,454 metres.
From the southern side – Valais
The chair lifts and cable cars called – Riederalp, Bettmeralp and Fiescheralp can be reached from the Rhône Valley. From there they go to car-free villages and finally up to the viewing platforms, panorama walks and hiking tracks close to the glacier. See my own experience of a short hike by visiting – How to Experience the Awe-Inspiring Aletsch Glacier- My Valais Experience.
Getting to the cable cars valley stations – Mörel, Betten and Fiesch
Public Transport
Bern to Brig : 1 hour, 6 mins, on intercity trains via Thun, Spiez, the Lötschberg basis tunnel and Visp, then change for trains or buses to Mörel, Betten or Fiesch for cable car/chair lift services up to the glacier.
By Car
Sierre to Betten: 52 km: Bern to Betten, via Thun and Spiez: 125 km, includes car transportation train from Kandersteg through the Lötschberg basis tunnel.
I recently visited the remote village of Grimentz in the Val d’Anniviers while staying in Sierre in the Rhône Valley.
Although the Val d’Anniviers is very accessible from Sierre (bus and car, not train), it is still a nerve-tingling road trip.
I decided to travel by bus, letting someone else worry about the switchbacks and narrow roads.
Road Trip – the adventure
I had only glanced briefly at the road map before doing this journey, thinking that the bus would take me down the valley, then zig-zag for a short while before arriving in Grimentz. I was wrong. If you look closely at a map, you will see that the zig-zagging starts early, then the road cuts into the side of the steep mountains – very high up.
The buses find it particularly tricky as they often need to use both sides of the road to negotiate these switchbacks. They will alert oncoming traffic in the nicest possible way. If you have been on any mountain road on a post bus you will know what I mean. They toot the horn which has a very distinctive & loud sing-song tune. On this particular journey, it can be heard regularly – after a few tight corners, the sing-song horn started to sound suspiciously like brace, brace, brace!
Vissoie Village Centre, Photo by A.Leggett
I was sitting beside the window closest to the drop, having a look now and then, only to see … nothing except the valley below. What amazed me was how calm all the other passengers seemed. Now and then I would frantically look around, hoping to share my obvious nervous energy with others. No one even looked at me, in fact, most of the passengers were chatting calmly or nodding off. I assumed they were locals. Their relaxed states did help calm me somewhat.
Vissoie (1204 m) is located around the centre of the valley and during the trip, the valley floor gradually gains altitude and the road’s curves become more gentle. By the time we arrived the sing-song horn was no longer needed and I had regained my composure.
From Vissoie the road splits in several directions. One way is towards my destination, Grimentz (1572 m) – higher on the southwest side of the valley; or the route to Ayer (1475 m) and Zinal (1675 m) on the southeast side. Another road zig-zags eastward to St-Luc (1,655 m). Due to Vissoie’s geographical location, this is a stage in the trip when passengers need to change buses. When I arrived there was a flurry of people with backpacks and walking poles, moving from one bright yellow bus to another, ready to continue their journey further along the valley.
After all the twists and turns of the road trip, Vissoie feels quite remote but at the same time, it has the look of a resort-style alpine village. At this point, I was looking longingly at the terraced restaurants and chalet-style cafés decorated with bright red geraniums, wanting to stop for a while before moving on, but, of course, Swiss public transport runs like clockwork and my next bus was ready to leave, with or without me.
The road from Vissoie to Grimentz passes through hills and steep meadows rather than dramatic cliffs with beautiful views down the valley.
All in all, it was an amazing experience with unbelievable views – and despite my obvious nervousness, the drivers are experts, and the roads are well maintained and safe.
The Rustic Historical Buildings and some of their Stories
This picturesque village, filled with geraniums in summer, is considered to be one of the most traditional villages of Valais. This is down to the authenticity of its centre. Many of the buildings have been incredibly well preserved with the narrow streets, alleyways and courtyards still feeling like they would have hundreds of years ago.
Traditionally this valley was home to nomadic inhabitants who lived for part of the year in the Rhône Valley. Nowadays fewer people live this way although, in summer, some residence move down to the valley to work in the vineyards.
When visiting the information centre, it is possible to purchase a guide booklet that has a simple numbered map that showing and explaining places of interest in the town.
These are some of the stories from this village:
Looking towards the main square and Bourgeoisie house
One of the oldest houses in Grimentz, found at the far end of this street, was built between 1480 and 1550. This house belonged to the “Bourgeoisie”. The exclusive membership included priority access to services like the mill and sawmill. Being a member was also a way of contributing to the community.
In 1873 a cross was erected to protect the village against fire and the elements.
The mill was understandably an important part of all the villages in this region – since it played a big part in keeping the locals fed. In Grimentz its location also housed the sawmill, bread oven, bread room and slaughterhouse.
There are three animated fountains in the village. The mill worker fountain, a fountain representing fighting Héren cows and the fountain of the baker.
A landslide in 1999 caused both the mill and the original fountain of the baker to be destroyed. The mill was then built with the original materials and the baker’s fountain was also reconstructed.
The Bread House offers tourists the opportunity to make bread in the original bread room every week. Winter: from mid-December to mid-April; Summer: from the beginning of July to the end of October. A notice on the door advises that on the days of bread making there will be smoke coming out of the building and not to be alarmed.
Originally the bread house was where families would come to make bread for the season – four times a year. The bread would, of course, harden over time but families simply cut it with an axe and soaked it in milk, coffee or soup. Perhaps we could learn a thing or two from this.
The houses in the old town mostly date from the 17th and 18th centuries. They are all made of larch which is darkened with time.
The original storehouses and granaries can be seen throughout the old town streets. They date from the 17th century. The stilts are to prevent rodents from getting in and to keep the provisions dry.
Things like dried meat, bread and flour were kept here.
Glacier Wine (Vin du Glacier)
I remember someone telling me that if you like the wine, then it is a good one… I am really curious as to how this particular wine tastes. Hint Hint.
To explain the principle behind Vin du Glacier wine, I have quoted the explanation from the Val d’Anniviers website:
“The principle of the Vin du Glacier is simple: the barrels are never emptied. Every year new wine is added to the old. For example :
– The wine in a barrel from 1888 will be blended with one from 1886 – Wine from 1934 will top up the 1888 barrel – Wine from 1969 will be used to top up the 1934 barrel and will in turn receive new wine in later years
The “Vin du Glacier” cannot be bought. It can only be savoured in the cellars of Anniviers, drawn directly from the barrel.
The cellar of the Maison Bourgeoisiale (ancient Community House) houses among others the famous Bishop’s Barrel. The wine in this larch-wood barrel dates from 1886. Once destined to the Bishop, it is served nowadays to VIP guests on special occasions.“
Quote from https://www.valdanniviers.ch/en/glacier-guided-tour-house-bourgeoisie-grimentz-960.html
It is possible to taste the Vin du Glacier wine while visiting Grimentz. (Minimum of 4 people and the language is French). Currently, it is limited to specific dates, weekly, on Mondays at 5 pm. Therefore it is best to arrange any wine tasting at the Grimentz Tourism office or Val d’Anniviers website.
Alpage de la Lée ( La Lée Alpine Pastures)is in a far corner of the Val d’Anniviers
Right at the end of the valley, there are around 800 hectares of pastures in the Alpage de la Lée area. They are spread over different levels from the Plats de la Lée up to the Zinal glacier and between the Navisence River in the valley and themountain peaks high above the valley on the west side.
In the area known as Le Vichiesso, a former alpine pasture, you will find a tsigière (alpine chalet) reconstructed in the traditional style, (a cheesestoreroom can be visited on request). Vichiesso pastures and buildings give an idea of life on the alpine pastures in the past.
Information panels can be found leading up toPetit Mountet mountain hut(2142 m) – open for eating and sleeping from June to October. There are some more traditional huts on the further up.
To get there see my orientation & info tab
Video by Cabane du Petit Mountet – Val d’Anniviers
Bisse des Sarrisins (Irrigation channels of the Saracens)
It is believed that Saracens built the irrigation channel, however, this has never been proven. They are estimated to have been built between 1415 and 1513 when the channel’s source was at a Moulinet (downstream from Pinsec).
The Bisse des Sarrisins irrigation channel is 10 km long and was used for watering livestock, irrigating the pastures and operating sawmills and mills.
Restored in the early 2000s, the Bisse des Sarrasins path is now accessible to hikers. It connects Pinsec to Vercorin and can also be reached from the village of Fang.
You will need a good head for heights in various parts on various parts of this trail.
Useful information
Season for hiking: from May to November
Duration: Approx. 3 hours
Includes: 17 educational panes along the route
Important
This mountain route is medium difficulty
It should only be attempted in dry weather
You will need a head for heights in some places
It’s each person’s responsibility to look for any changes to conditions or the roads/track before doing it.
Below is a link for more information on Bisse des Saracens and other hikes:
This Val D’Anniviers page gives details on popular trails including the Bisse des Saracens hike and hikes to alpine lakes and alpine huts.
I
Visiting the Mills
The Grimentz mills date back to 1716. They were renovated in the early 1970s, and a vertical waterwheel was installed on the south façade to recreate a working site.
As mentioned on the village tab, the mill was refurbished in the traditional style, with millstones and a horizontal blade drive system, after part of it was badly damaged in May 1999
The Saint-Luc mills (Les Moulins Saint-Luc) can be found near Saint-Luc, down at the Torrent des Moulins river. These mills were built in the 16th century and renovated in 1986. On the site of the mills, you will find a corn mill, barley and nut press, 2 rye and wheat mills, a cloth mill, and the miller’s house. See the local tourism office for opening times
To get there and map see my orientation & info tab
Winter in Vissoie Village as seen from St Luc
In the past, the steep elevation of the mountains in this part of Valais caused the region to become isolated. This resulted in the formation of some unique regional dialects. Although the local population still use these dialects, they also speak standard French and German.
Interesting Fact:
The western part of the canton is mostly French-speaking (Valais) and the eastern part (Wallis) is mostly German-speaking. The mountain ridges between Val d’Anniviers and the Turtmanntal valley are considered the imaginary line or “Röstigraben” that separates the two. The clue is in the names of the valleys – Tal is German, Val is French.
See Below for Transport Information
Places mentioned in this post are displayed on the map
Transport Information
Buses leave regularly from Sierre to Vissoie (change here for connections to further down the valley, or across to St Luc). See sbb.ch for timetable and route information.
Main Routes
Sierre – Vercorin
Sierre – Vissoie
Vissoie – St-Luc
Vissoie – Grimentz
Vissoie – Grimentz – Lac de Moiry
Vissoie – (stops at Ayer) – Zinal
Cable Cars, Gondolas, chairlifts and St Luc’s Funicular
Lush green pastures, forest-covered slopes and craggy peaks surround the town of Schwyz. A trip up the Rotenflue cable car gives a great panorama of all this as well as the Alps, Vierwaldstättersee (Lake Lucerne) and Lauerezsee(Lake Lauer). All slowly come into view as you glide up to the mountain station at 1571 metres above sea level.
The cable car takes 15 minutes to climb from Rickenbach (neighbouring town of Schwyz) up to Rotenflue; the start of an idyllic natural landscape. From here it is possible to walk through nearby Moorland, meadows and forests or relax in the mountain inns, at BBQ spots or on panorama benches.
Grill spots can be found within easy walking distance of the top station. Four grill spots close to the mountain station are:
Kreuz – an official Swiss Family BBQ spot. 300m south of the cable car
Heublätz – 200m below the Restaurant Gipfelstubli
Gruebi/Chänzeli – an official Swiss Family BBQ spot 800m from cable car, direction Holzegg
Holzweid
Ordering a Picnic Basket (Picnic Korb)
In summer, it is possible to pick up a picnic basket and seat cover from the Gipfelstubli restaurant, situated at the top Rotenflue cable car station. There are currently (July 2021) three variants:
The Classic ( Klassische) incl. mineral water, home made ice tea
The Festive (Festliche) incl. Prosecco
The Love Affair… (direct translation from Die Liebelei) incl. Champagne
All offer food such as fresh fruit, dried fruit, bread, mineral water, cheese and sausages. (extras like vegetables, pasta salad and dessert for The Festive & The Love Affair). Also included are cups, picnic dishes and cutlery.
This walk is also possible as a winter walk and withsnowshoes – and from both directions. We did this one recently (Dec. 2021) from Ibergeregg. It was holiday time so reasonably busy. This was down to the perfect skiing conditions, perfect weather and was during the Christmas holidays. Was a wonderful experience with wonderful views and very entertaining watching the sledders flying past. This path also crosses some ski pistes.
The region between Ibergeregg, Holzegg and Rotenflue offers plenty of well-signposted Snowshoe trails and various skiing possibilities including a ski safari for the adventurous. It is 14 km and takes about 3 hours. Contact info@hoch-ybrig.ch for more details.
Circular Walk with lookout points, Restaurant Terraces and a BBQ spot
Mythen Region Transport Links – up to Rotenflue
Train — Bus — Rotenflue Cable Car
Train to Schwyz (offering some wonderful scenery along the way)
From Zürich – 1 hr, incl. change at Zug or Arth Goldau. Onward to Locarno.
From Lucerne – 40-50 mins; From Zug – 30 mins
Bus from Schwyz train station to Rotenflue Cable Car – summer and autumn only
Bus Nr. 503 – operates regularly in both directions, stopping at Schwyz town centre. Journey time: 12-16 mins.
Bus Nr. 505 – operates regularly in both directions, stopping at Schwyz town centre. Journey time: 9-11 mins.
Rotenflue Cable Car
Open: 8th May – 2nd July daily from 9am – 5pm; 3rd July – 31st Oct. daily from 8.30am – 5.30pm; 1st November – beginning ski season daily from 9am – 4.3 pm. (dates for 2021). For up-to-date information go here.
In Appenzell – A place that reminds me of New Zealand
I would like to introduce myself and let you know why I am doing this blog. My husband and I originally come from New Zealand. Although we have lived in Zürich canton, Switzerland for over 10 years, along with our two Swiss-born children and two rabbits.
I grew up on a sheep farm in the middle of nowhere. In fact, if you can imagine the middle of nowhere – I was in the middle of that.
So moving here was a bit of a shock – I am now in the middle of everything. Luckily one of my favourite pastimes is exploring and Europe has always fascinated me.
There are definite similarities between Switzerland and New Zealand, mostly geographical. They both have stunning, dramatic scenery and remote, quiet corners (although I think New Zealand tips the scales on that last one).
However, Switzerland has a completely different feel about it. There are the historical villages where you feel as if you have stepped back in time, the alpine lakes that are warm enough to swim in. There are traditions and practices that go back hundreds of years, like the Fasnacht carnival with music, confetti, and fancy dress, or the Alpzeit processions to move the livestock up and down the mountains. The list goes on…
In canton Uri with the family
I just love this place and want to share my discoveries with others, especially people that prefer getting away from the crowds to find the quieter, more remote spots. I will continue to explore (lucky me) and write. I hope I can do Switzerland’s off-the-beaten-track justice.
