This blog shows places that are often a side note or not found in most guide books. Let me show you my favourite spots - places that are just a bit off the beaten track in this beautiful country.
The truth about how mountains are made is unveiled in the amazing Pizol alpine region. Found in the UNESCO World Heritage Sardona Tectonic Arena, this region is full of panoramic wonders – you just need to know where to look.
The Pizol High Plateau is like a viewing platform of geological events going back millennia. You can see mountain chains once part of the African plate, the Rhine Valley, once a huge glacier, snaking off into the distance and mountain peaks, once hundreds of metres below the ocean in deep-sea trenches, now over 2,500 metres above sea level covered in snow. But the region is mostly famous for the discovery that geologists and scientists made here – how mountains are formed. The collision of plates can be seen in the clearly defined layers of rock over 300 million years old, now known as the “Glarus thrust”.
Why would anyone want to miss a show like that?
How to view mighty mountains and the Rhine Valley –Pizol’s Panorama Trail
Sign meanings: Yellow indicates Ski Tours 34 & 35 down to Gaffia middle chairlift station, Brown/red is the red ski slope to Gaffia and Green indicates the paragliding site – available in both summer and winter. Pink is for winter trail 172 – Panorama circular trail – more detail below.
Doing the Panorama Trail
Length: 3.6 km | Duration: 1 hour 10 mins | Height Difference: 30 m | Start: Either Wangs or Bad Ragaz gondola stations
Location
When travelling by car, the Pizol Region is reached via the main A3 motorway in a southeast direction from Zürich. Around 30 minutes after travelling across the southern tip of Lake Zürich the motorway runs through the Rhine Valley where dramatic views of the Alps rise up in front of you – of course, this depends on the weather. The Glarus Valley to the west, is notorious for fog but once this clears the mighty peaks are visible all around. Once travelling through tunnels and alongside Walensee (Lake Walen), the Rhine Valley widens and this is when signposts for Wangs and Bad Ragaz come into view. From here it is easy to exit the motorway and find a park at the valley stations of both gondolas.
When taking public transport the views from the train start in the valley and include the wonderful Walensee. From Wangs or Bad Ragaz buses connect the train station to the gondolas.
The Trail
The Pizol high plateau stretches out between the top chairlift stations Laufböden and the Pizolhütte, with the magnificent Panorama Höhenweg circular hiking trail meandering between these two points. The crowning glory is the summit panorama and the Grand Tour of Switzerland photo spot at the Tagweidlichopf viewpoint. The circular trail is dedicated to the UNESCO World Heritage Tectonic Arena Sardona.
Highlights:
Large info panel at the panoramic viewing platform with astounding insights into the formation of the Alps.
Grand Tour of Switzerland Photo Spot.
360-degree views.
Clear views of the ridging and folding of rock strata known as the Glarus Thrust.
Well-groomed paths in a stunning winter landscape.
Friendly staff
Cosy mountain restaurants with indoor and outdoor seating.
Panorama Benches
My Experience
I was lucky enough to have an invitation from the lovely staff at Pizol Tourism and Marketing after asking for information about winter walking in the area.
I planned to explore the area with a friend. The idea was that we would get familiar with the area by taking the gondola and chair lifts to the top, have a coffee at the Pizolhütte Restaurant, do the trail, take plenty of photos and learn more about the Tectonic Arena, then finish for another drink before going down to the valley.
View from chairlift – ski trails and the Glarus mountains hidden under thick snow.
Getting to the Pizol Plateau
Great theory but unfortunately my friend couldn’t make it so I was on my own. It was not a problem except when I arrived I was surrounded by skiers, a gondola trip then 2 chair lift rides to the top. I imagined sharing a chair lift with a seasoned skier – they would gracefully alight at the top station, swishing off into the snowy distance, I, however, would be forced to run along the hard snowy floor of the station, probably slip, ending up under the chairlift with the possibility of my backpack strap hooked around some part of the lift. The staff would be forced to stop the lifts while unhooking me and pulling me to my feet. I would then limp off, spending the rest of my time on the mountain worrying about the trip down.
Attentive Staff
Of course, it didn’t happen like that. The lift staff were very attentive and made sure I was not travelling with skiers, also the exit from the lifts was very straightforward – I just took a step to the side and was on firm ground. There were also plenty of other people doing the winter walks so, most importantly, I was not alone.
So I started the Panorama trail completely relaxed, breathing in the crisp alpine air, bathed in sunlight, buzzing at the thought of walking on the well-groomed paths. It was very early in the day and the snow was pretty hard on the trail. This meant a bit of slipping and sliding to start with, which was viewed by others in the chair lift but at that point, I didn’t care. The wonderful thing about the Pizol plateau is that you feel like you are on top of the world, with views of mountains going on forever into the distance. A few slips and slides didn’t matter. I just waved at my audience and continued to slip and slide down the path.
After the initial challenge, the path softened and was easier to negotiate. I would recommend sturdy winter boots for the walk and I noticed some other hikers have poles, but these are not required.
Near the start of the trail looking towards the Tagweidlichopf viewpoint.
The Hike
The high plateau at 2222 meters, that the trail crosses, is positioned in front of the Sardona Tectonic Arena like a naturally shaped viewing platform. The views are in all directions – towards the World Heritage Glarus mountains, across the Rhine Valley and as far as Lake Constance in clear weather, then layers of Alps disappearing into the distance.
On the trail, looking towards Pizolhütte Restaurant and chairlift.
Beautiful shapes are made from shadows created by the morning sun. Lake Wangser (Wangsersee) is hidden under snow and ice.
Tagweidlichopf vantage point
The high-altitude trail is lined with information about the view, the origin of the Alps and the UNESCO World Heritage Site. One of the highlights is the Tagweidlichopf vantage point (2275 m above sea level) with a 360-degree panoramic view and a large panoramic viewing guide explaining the geological changes and events that created the landscape.
A Grand Tour of Switzerland photo spot with a view of the Pizol summit and its glacier was installed here in July 2018. The Pizol was chosen as one of the 40 most beautiful photo spots in Switzerland.
How to get thereand a map of walking routes with lifts
A gondola and chairlift complete the journey up to the Pizol Plateau from Bad Ragaz – Laufböden (2,224 m). Another option is with a gondola and 2 chairlifts from the town of Wangs -Pizolhütte station (2,222 m). All lifts connect seamlessly. The map below displays the lifts.
Winter hiking trail – Pizol Panorama Höhenweg (high altitude walk). Can also be done in summer.
To the Valley Station at Wangs or Bad Ragaz
Public Transport
Zürich main station to Bad Ragaz train station: Taking 1 hr 16 mins (depending on connection), then the bus to Bad Ragaz Pizol Bahn (gondola) takes 13 mins. (Check the sbb.ch timetable for exact connection times).
Zürich main station to Sargans train station: Taking 1 hr 10/ 1 hr 30 mins (depending on connection), then the bus to Wangs Pizolbahn (gondola) takes 10 mins. (Check the sbb.ch timetable for exact connection times).
Car
Central Zürich – around 90 km to Wangs gondola car and 95 km to Bad Ragaz gondola car park – taking around 1 hour 40 mins/ 2 hours depending on traffic.
Lucerne – 85 km to the region.
Gondolas and chairlifts
Access to the top (Pizol Plateau)
Bad Ragaz: 8-seater Gondola Bad Ragaz-Pardiel and 4-seater chairliftto Laufböden.
Wangs: 8-seater Gondola Wangs-Furt and 4-seater chairlift Furt-Gaffia then 4-seater chairlift Gaffia-Pizolhütte.
Where and how to enjoy off-the-beaten-track activities in Switzerland‘s magic winter landscape– away from the busy ski pistes.
It’s easy to find sublime winter landscapes in Switzerland but sometimes it can be difficult to find the right activities once you are there. The 7 activities that I chose are great for enjoying the snowy atmosphere, the views and the wonderful natural environment and, of course, for having some serious fun. They are sledding, winter hiking, snowshoeing, ice-skating, snow kite surfing, snow biking and alpine thermal baths.
Learning to Ski in Switzerland’s Magic Winter Landscape as an adult
I am a perpetual beginner when it comes to skiing. Despite living an hour’s drive from a ski field in NZ, the farm took top priority, so skiing simply wasn’t on our radar.
I first learned to ski in Bulgaria on a backpacking trip. It was a bad start – the snow was starting to melt when we arrived… and didn’t stop melting.
My next experience with skiing was when my husband and I took a road trip through Europe many years ago. We had a blast attempting to stay upright on the slopes in Andorra and Austria. Without the budget for ski lessons, it was a bit hit or miss – with a few noteworthy wipeouts that we still laugh about today. Somehow we managed to avoid any broken limbs although our pride was pummeled by children offering to help us up way too often.
Over the years I have slowly improved but I am still happy with the beginners’ slopes. It doesn’t stop me from loving it (unless I venture onto a black slope in error, then it is simply terrifying).
As far as I am concerned, the point of skiing is to get out of the house, shake off the winter cobwebs, and have some fun, however, skiing isn’t the only option. I have come up with a few alternatives which can be just as much fun but maybe less terrifying (in some cases).
1. Sledding and Snowshoe hike in the Albula Valley
The iconic Preda to Bergün tobogganing run with a circular snowshoe walk
Sled run from Preda to Bergün
The Albula Pass tobogganing run
I didn’t try sledging until I was an adult – our farm was in the Canterbury Plains… so pretty flat. It took a lot of courage to do the Preda to Bergün tobogganing run in the Albula Pass. It is only possible to use the daunting wooden Davos sleds, however, my courage was rewarded with a crazy family day out that included idyllic train trips uphill and action-packed, slightly out-of-control trips back down.
Tip: There are different types of wooden Davos sleds depending on your level and confidence. The beginner sleds are easier to control and slower and most have a soft seating area.
The tobogganing run is special for 2 reasons:
Reason 1: The train journey from Bergün twists & turns through the mountains of the Albula Pass and over elegant viaducts to reach the start of the tobogganing rungiving you a taste of the UNESCO World Heritage Albula line.
Reason 2: The 6 km tobogganing run goes directly under the viaducts and, if you time it right, at the same time as the trains speed over them.
Tip: A good time to do this run is between train arrival times in Preda. We hired some snowshoes and did a circular track that goes past the pretty Palpuognasee (Lake Palpuogna), then replaced our snowshoes with sleds at the rental kiosk, managing to get going long before the train full of other sledders arrived.
Snowshoe trail to Lago Palpuogna
Lake Palpuogna – once voted as the most beautiful spot in Switzerland
Palpuogna snowshoe (Schneeschuh) Trail No. 528
Hike Distance: 5 km
Level: Easy/Medium
Duration: 2 hours
Ascent: 220 m
In the winter, when snow covers the Albula Pass, this region truly becomes a magic winter landscape. The Rhaetian Railway journey that passes through the small hamlet of Preda is often full of sleds and their owners making sure they don’t fall down as the train twists and turns through the tunnels and over the curved viaducts. This train ride is very smooth so all sleds and anybody standing close to them are pretty safe.
When leaving the train the majority of the people will be heading for the sled run. The snowshoe trail, in the opposite direction, is a calmer alternative to experience the peaceful natural environment of this area.
Short-cut option near Preda Photo A.Leggett
TheRoute
This circular trail from Preda train station follows old mule trails and leads to the beautiful Lake Palpuogna. The signposts, which are pink with a picture of a snowshoe, are easy to follow. This is a beautiful place to visit even though the lake is often covered in snow. Far away from any town or roads (the pass is closed to traffic in winter), this trail leads through pine forests and has lovely mountain views.
Some Tips
Tip 1:This is a great walk when trying out snowshoeing for the first time since most of the trail is groomed and reasonably easy.
Tip 2:Have your snack breaks in amongst the trees. The lake was exposed to an icy wind when wedid the hike and the only place to sit was a snow-covered bench with only the top showing. We used that as a seat, then quickly ate our snacks and took off into the forest which is where we should have stopped as the temperature was nice and mild amongst the trees.
Tip 3: The official map for the Palpuogna snowshoe trail can be found on the Swiss Mobility website. This website is also great for the national network of winter and snowshoe routes around the country.
Information
Services
Snowshoe and Sled Rental – Mark Sportin Bergün – staff are always friendly and happy to help. The Kiosk directly at Preda train station also hires a selection of sleds and snow shoes.
Getting There
The toboggan run and snowshoe trail both start from the train station at Preda.
Train: Bergün to Preda – 17 minutes and leaves regularly throughout the day. See sbb.ch for details. The Albula Pass road is closed to traffic during the winter months.
2. Thermal Baths in the Lower Engadin and Viamala Region
Engadin Bad Scuol(Bogn Engiadina) in the Upper Engadin
Inside the Bogn Engiadina, Image by Anita Leggett
The town of Scuol is the biggest town in the Lower Engadin Valley. It takes a bit of effort to get here but the journey through wild landscapes and past idyllic villages; as well as the magical views, from the baths themselves, are all good reasons to come.
What is available at the Scuol baths*
Panorama pool, approx. 33 ° C
Exercise and therapy pool, 33 ° C
Brine pool – 2% brine, approx. 33 ° C
Whirlpool – approx. 36 ° C
Grottos – Cold water, 18 ° C and warm water grotto, 36 ° C
We stayed in Andeer for a ski week in 2018 and found these mineral baths around the corner from our accommodation. We often went there in the evenings. I think I enjoy the thermal baths as much as the skiing!
The Andeer Mineral Baths are found in the small, typical Graubünden village of Andeer. This is an ideal place if you are looking for peace and quiet. They have cobbled streets and a pretty town center with a welcoming bakery. The buses leave from this area regularly to Splügen Tambo ski resort which can be reached in 13 mins or 15 minutes by car.
What is available at the Andeer baths*
One indoor and one outdoor mineral pool (good size) – both with bubble, whirlpool & neck shower
Constant 34 degrees
Evening light display in the outdoor pool
Wellness
Finnish sauna and bio sauna as well as a steam bath (currently reserved for women only from 6-9 pm).
Splash and Spa Tamaro Abo – 20% off ski pass (see website for details)
*As of Dec 2023
For up-to-date information and a funny video go to their website. Also, theSplügen Tambowebsite gives more information about the Splash and Spa Tamaro discount (20% off your day ski pass with entry to the spa).
Some lesser-known ski resorts in canton Graubünden – great for beginners
Splügen Tambo Ski Area – great skiing for beginners. Photo: A. Leggett
If you want to have a go at skiing far from the crowds. I recommend these small lesser-known ski slopes, also in canton Graubünden, that offer great practice runs for beginners – big or small.
Splügen – Tambo, The ski resort is close to Andeer and offers a wide variety of beginner & family slopes. Splügen is also a lovely, well-preserved historical town, across the road from the resort.
Tip: Book ski passes online, ski during the week or low season for lower prices and the day passes are discounted when combined with entry to the Andeer thermal baths.
Bergün, Graubünden – 1 beginner and 1 blue slope – both small – They are really good for practice before going to the neighbouring slopes of Darlux ski area: 3 lifts & 25km of slopes.
Pany – tiny ski resort with plenty of room to practice. Photo: A.Leggett
Pany(in Luzein, Prättigau, Graubünden) – a tiny ski area with 1 (very long) T-bar lift, 1 children’s lift and 7 km of runs. It includes a small number of good-sized runs through trees to make it interesting. Also offers a ski school and a lovely restaurant with a terrace.
If you are looking for one of the most beautiful winter landscapes in Switzerland you cannot avoid the Upper Engadin. This wide valley sits at 1,800 metres above sea level and is equipped with many frozen lakes, wide sweeping slopes and craggy mountain ranges; pristine villages and glamourous towns – St Moritz is one of the most well-known. Winters here are a blessing for winter sport enthusiasts with regular low temperatures, keeping the landscape white and the lakes frozen.
Lake Silvaplana is a large lake battered by the Maloja winds that sweep over the lake around midday each day. This and the large expanse of snow-covered ice make this lake a mecca for snow-kite surfing enthusiasts. The good news is that it has become a major sport which means better training, and plenty of options for beginners upwards – this includes beginner skiers (understandably, you do need to stand and move confidently on skis).
Swiss Kite Centre and School
This is the home of kite surfing and snow kite surfing. The owner, Swiss-born Stefan Popprath taught his first student snowkiting in 1994 even before an official name was given to the sport.
He founded the centre after realised the Maloja wind and the location of the lake was perfect for kites and surfing so, after some inspiration from another adventurer, Reinhold Messner, and researching and testing equipment, he set up the kite surfing centre in the 1990s. Anything you need to know about the centre and the sport is available on his website or by visiting the sport centre itself.
The Locations and other activities
Swiss Kitesurf has three locations. The main one is at the centre on Lake Silvaplana, the others are Furtschella – 5 mins from the centre and the Bernina Pass 20 mins from the centre. The Kite Surfing Centre is part of Mulet sport centre which also has an ice-skating rink, hockey field and curling.
Information
Services
Kite Rental – Seetheir websitefor information on Kite rental and schooling.
Food and Drink – Restaurant Mulets – Just above the kite surfing sports centre – with great views of the lake and mountains. See the kite sailing website for more information.
Getting There
Public Transport:Chur to Kite School Silvaplana train/bus journey time: 2 hours 30 mins with changes. St. Moritz by bus 17 minutes including an 8-minutewalk from the bus stop. See sbb.ch for timetables.
The 2.5 km Via da Glatsch ice-skating trail runs alongside the River Inn and links the villages of Zuoz to Madulain. These two traditional villages have stunning architecture and sit in a sunny part of the Engadin valley. Even though these villages are only around 25 minutes by train from the extravagant St. Moritz, they feel a world away. Zuoz is pretty and quiet with local produce and traditions everywhere. The tourist information offers a walking tour of the town with details about the history of different buildings and the everyday lives of the people living in this part of the Upper Engadin Valley.
Another Ice-Skating option – Lake St. Moritz (St. Moritzersee).
Glamorous people sparkle this time of year in St. Moritz. Some do literally sparkle and it can be blinding. Apart from this side of St. Moritz, there are some very cool groomed ice-skating tracks on the lake. They are nice and wide and you always have the option to rest in the snow at the side. This is such an idyllic location and it is difficult not to be impressed.
Information
Services for Ice-Skating Trail
Skate Rental – Willy Sport in Zuoz; Colamo Sport in La Punt Chamues-ch; Promulins Arena, Samedan
Admission Cost:- CHF5
Getting There
Train: St. Moritz – Madulain 21 mins; St.Moritz – Zuoz – 26 mins hourly changing at Samedan.
Sledding in the Bernese Oberland’s Reichenbach Valley
The Bernese Oberland’s Rychenbach River Valley connects the Meiringen region to the Grindelwald region. This valley gains altitude from Meiringen to the Grosse Scheidegg Pass.
The Reichenbach Valley
One of the oldest and best-preserved funiculars in Switzerland climbs from Meiringen village up to the alpine valley. The valley gradually gains altitude from the top of the funicular to Grosse Scheidegg (850 m – 1962 m) and is surrounded by views of dramatic mountains.
The valley has forests, wide open fields, theRosenlaui Gorge and the impressive Reichenbach River. Little hamlets and the romanticRosenlaui Hotel can be found along the way. The Post Bus is one of the few forms of transport that can use the small windy road without restrictions.
Where to Sled
This kind of landscape is perfect for winter sledding. The post bus travels from Meiringen up to the valley’s highest point – Grosse Scheidegg. From here it is an exciting 5.5 km ride on the sled down to the hamlet of Schwarzwaldalp where the bus once again takes you and your sled up to start all over again.
The views are amazing with the run at the foot of the dramatic Wetterhorn and the Horn range of mountains.
Experience Needed:Suitable for both novices and experienced riders.
Tip. There are also many snowshoe trails in the Reichenbach Valley.
Information
Services
Sled Rental– from the Chalet-Hotel Schwarzwaldalp. Food and Drink – there are restaurants and services at both ends of the sled run – Schwarzwaldalp and Grosse Scheidegg.
Getting There
Public Transport – Interlaken to Meiringen
Sledding – A special Schlitten (sled) Bus runs regularly from Meiringen to Schwarzwaldalp and then up to Grosse Scheidegg.
Operating times 2023/2024
Daily: from 26th December 2023 to 7th January 2024
Thursday to Sunday: from 11th January to 3rd March 2024
Velogemel is a cross between a bike and a sled. Now used as an adrenalin-fuelled activity, this contraption was originally meant as an everyday way of getting about in the winter months for the locals. Developed and patented by Christian Bühlmann from Grindelwald back in 1911, it was known as a “single-track steerable sled”.
The Velogemel toboggan run is the bottom part of the Big Pintenfritz tobogganing run which is considered the longest in Europe at 15 km and is classed as difficult. So think carefully before attempting it.
Where the Velogemel run starts and finishes
Starts: At Bussalp (1,800 m). The stunning views from Bussalp include the world-famous Alp trio – Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. The descent gives an adrenalin hit in terms of speed and balance and is definitely a very original and adventurous way to fly down a mountain.
Finishes: In either Grindelwald,Weidli (2.5 km northwest of the train station) or Grindelwald Village depending on the conditions. (See Info section below for more details).
Tip 1: If you only want to watch these bike-sleds in action, the Velogemel World Championships take place at the beginning of February every year (since 1996) – the races start from Bussalp.
Tip 2:It is better to do the run in the morning as the snow can get soft and sludgy later in the day.
Tip 2: There are also plenty of other toboggan runs with all levels of difficulty starting from or going through Bussalp. See this link for more information – Grindelwaldbus.
“City Run – The Classic” Toboggan Run, Bussalp – Weidli
Information
Services
Velogemel Rental – Rent from either Grindelwald railway station, Kaufmann Sport in Grindelwald centre or Ski service Egger at Grindelwald Grund, then take the bus from the train station to Bussalp at 1800 m. Food and Drink – Bergrestaurant (mountain restaurant) Bussalp.
Getting There
GrindelwaldBus line 126 from Grindelwald train station to Bussalp. Toboggan run stops in Weidli, above Grindelwald village. Buses regularly leave from Weidli back up to Bussalp.
Cantons Lucerne and Schwyz
7. Winter Hiking and snowshoe trails
Winter Hiking on the sunny Ibereregg Pass, high above Schwyz township.
Ibergeregg Pass looking towards Lake Lucerne, Photo by A.Leggett
Tucked in between Lakes Lucerne and Lake Zürich is the wonderful Mythen region of foothills and mountains. IbergereggPass is part of the mountainous area connecting the Einsiedeln region (close to Zürich) and the Rotenflue mountain, above the town of Schwyz (close to Lake Lucerne).
This is a great place to get above the clouds and walk out in the open and through fir trees to Berggasthäuser (mountain restaurants) and Beizlis (small eateries). There are often views of the lakes or, like in this photo, a blanket of clouds.
Mythen Region
The Mythen region is an alpine region that encompasses the Ibergeregg Pass, the dramatic GrosseMythen mountain (1,898 m) and the Rotenflue mountain (1,571 m). This is where you will find a wide, undulating landscape with dramatic mountains, meadows, moorlands and woods – a paradise for walking, winter sports and trying out the local produce.
Hiking and snowshoe trails – Ibergeregg Pass
Ibergeregg Pass is a good place to try out some winter walks and snowshoe trails as there is a good network of national routes and local routes starting here. Also, there are many mountain restaurants and inns in this region and the routes pass right past a few of them. They often have outdoor terraces and are well-signposted.
Information
Travelling to Rotenflue from Lake Lucerne: Train/Bus to Rychenbach (a suburb of the Schwyz township); then Rotenflue cable car – 1 hour 25 minutes including changes.
Travelling to Ibergeregg Pass from Zürich: Train to Schwyz, change at Arth Goldau; then bus to Ibergeregg Pass (505) – 1 hour 40 mins including changes.
Region of Einsiedeln/Oberiberg: These are starting points for the Hoch Ybrig ski resort, then bus 505 leaves from Oberiberg – 12 minutes.
Rigi mountain range – gentle slopes overlooking Lake Lucerneon one side and Lake Zug on the other
A natural border between the lower, flatter Swiss Mittelland that runs in a northwesterly direction and the summits of the Swiss Alps, Rigi is considered one of the most classic panorama mountains in Switzerland. Rigi summit, topped by Rigi Kulm, rises between Lake Zug (Zugersee) and Lake Lucerne (Vierwaldstättersee).
Winter WalkingTrails
There are several winter walks and snowshoe trails spread along Rigi’s peaks and slopes and they are all well connected by a network of public transport.
Winter Walking –Rigi Panorama Path
Rigi Kaltbad, on the Lake Lucerne facing slope, has a small station for the historical mountain railway and is home to the Mineralbad & Spa– sublime thermal baths with a view.
A gentle walk from the main summit, Rigi Kaltbad to Rigi Scheidegg offers plenty of superb lookout points in all directions.
Hike Distance: approx.7.9 km
Level: Medium
Finish: Rigi Scheidegg
Duration: 2 hrs
Type of Walk: Point-to-Point
AscentDescent: 250/136 m
Start: Rigi Kaltbad
This winter route is called the Panoramaweg (Panorama Walk). It doesn’t have any steep sections – just a long gentle ascent from 1,424 m to 1,641 m over 8 km. It can be walked in both directions, in sections or used for walking to one of the mountain restaurants’ panorama terraces.
Information
This walk starts and finishes with different means of ascent/descent as follows:
Rigi Kaltbad:
Lake Lucerne/Vitznau: mountain rail
Lake Lucerne/Weggis: cable car
Lake Zug side/Arth Goldau: mountain rail
Rigi Scheidegg:
From Rigi Scheidegg to Kräbel: mountain rail – linking with mountain railway to Arth Goldau, (Lake Zug side).
From Rigi Scheidegg to Kräbel: mountain railway to Rigi Kulm (peak) then to Vitznau by mountain train or Weggis by cable car (Lake Lucerne).
Websites:sbb.chfor boat/train/mountain rail links and Rigi for cable car information and further winter walks, snowshoe trails, toboggan runs etc.
Understanding Winter Signposts
Sledding Guidelines
Links
Winter trails are clearly visible in a snowy environment
Pink signposts and arrows are used for winter walking, hiking or snowshoe trails and the turquoise signs represent cross-country skiing.
Snow Shoe Trails
Snowshoe trails are pink with a snowshoe symbol. If the trail is a national route, then it indicates the name and number of the route with a dark pink background.
WinterHiking Routes
The national routes are marked with the relevant number on a light pink background
Winter trails sometimes have a symbol that indicates what kind of walk it is – light walk or hike. In this case, it is an 8 km hike that ascends 340 m.
Good to know: Pink poles line both sides of the trails and it is important to stay within these poles as ski pistes often zig-zag beside, through and past the winter hiking routes.
Local Routes
Many local councils have created winter trails – sometimes groomed, sometimes not but definitely a unique way of seeing the villages from a different perspective (this one is above Bergün in the Albula Pass).
These are normally pink with a white snowflake.
Cross-Country Skiing Signs
Cross-country skiing signposts and route indicators are turquoise. However, this road sign is pretty clear – you are about to cross a cross-country skiing track.
Restaurant and Guesthouse Signs
Beizli – small eatery serving local products,
Bergrestaurant – mountain restaurant
Bergasthaus – mountain guest house and restaurant
Alpwirtschaft – a small family-owned restaurant often part of a farm or cheese dairy (may not be open in summer).
Alpstubli – Look and feel of a traditional mountain restaurant – often large and associated with a ski area.
My Favourite Sign – made by my kids.
Sledding Guidelines
Small toboggan run in Oberiberg, canton Schwyz. Photo A.Leggett
What to wear –
Always wear good winter boots with a solid sole and plenty of tread. Your boots are used for braking and steering.
Ski helmet.
Waterproof gloves, ski pants and ski jacket
Scarf ( tucked in of course)
Small backpack
Goggles or good sunglasses
How to use the wooden Davos sleds –
Leg position – Legs should be bent and facing forward. Hold onto the reins and lean back. On straight and flat sections of the run, the feet can rest on the runners.
Steering – Steer with both your boots and body – When steering to the left, simply put your left foot out into the snow and the same with a right turn, right foot. Also, lean your body in the direction you are turning (into the corner).
Braking –
When the terrain flattens out put both feet flat on the snow to slow down or stop.
When on the slope, dig your heels into the snow to slow down and brake.
If you need to brake on steep terrain, pull up the front of the sled with the reins. The more you pull, the more you will brake.
When the run becomes steep it is better to sit in the rear of the sled.
Rules of sledging
Show consideration for others
Adapt speed and driving style to ability
Respect the lane of the vehicle in front
Overtake with distance
Look up before entering and approaching the road
Stop at the edge
Get on and off at the edge
Observe signs and markings
German words for communicating when sledding
Sledding/sled – schlitten fahren/ der Schlitten
Sled rental – Schlitten mieten.
Watch out! – Achtung! or aufpassen!
I am passing! – Ich gehe durch! or Achtung!
Further Links
Swiss Mobility has a listing of around 100 toboggan runs with filter options for level of difficulty. Go to the link here to take a look – Schwiezmobil.
schlitten.ch is a great website, in German and English, which offers advice on different types of sledand how to get around the corners without falling off.
After spending a few hours hiking on an alpine trail that goes through meadows and forests; under overhanging rocks, across streams and through high valleys, it is such a wonderful feeling when the magical Oberblegisee alpine lake appears in front of you mirroring the surrounding mountain peaks.
The only access to the lake is with a gondola ride and then hiking and biking trails – keeping it well hidden.
The Walk
The walk to the lake and then to the Brunnenberg cable car takes approx. 3 hours with stops. The start is mainly flat then it goes up and down a bit before reaching the lake. A grill spot with views, a simple restaurant serving regional products and 2 self-service alpine cheese dairies are found along the route. Good to Know: They only accept cash and sometimes the TWINT app.
Getting to the Trail
The trip up the mountain starts at Linthal in the Glarus valley. This valley branches off just before Lake Walen (Walensee) and is reached by exiting the main motorway from Zürich at Glarus/Näfels (No. 44 off-ramp). The region, which includes the UNESCO World Heritage Sardona Tectonic Arena, is called Glarnerland.
Good to Know: The national public transport system (sbb.ch) offers a combi-deal – a discount when booking the complete trip through them. Get more information here.
Directions are as follows:
At Linthal Braunwaldbahn take the funicular to the car-free village of Braunwald.
Walk approx. 10-minutes to the Hüttenberg – Grotzenbüel gondola
When arriving at the Grotzenbüel ski and hiking area, look for the yellow sign (with white/red/white mountain trail markings) to OberblelgiseeRundweg.
The hiking trail ends at the Luchsingen gondola station that will take back down the valley to the Brunnenberg train station.
For more details on the funicular, gondolas(operating times), hiking trail and what time of year to do it see the Getting There section below.
The Trail
Distance: 8 km (from gondola to gondola)
Takes: approx. 3 hrs with stops.
Ascent: 77 m
Descent: 540 m
After leaving the top station of the Grotzenbüel gondola, the first part of the walk is alongside rolling pastures and forested areas with great views of the mountain range on the other side of the valley.
In the summer the dairy farms are busy making dairy products that can be enjoyed at small restaurants and Käserei (cheese dairies) throughout the whole walk.
Walking in the Glarus Mountains to Oberblegi Lake (Oberblegisee)
A lovely thick forest with wild mushrooms and ferns opens out to a wide valley. From here the trail winds uphill to a pretty little Beizli (small farm restaurant) which has a small but very tasty menu of local ingredients.
Then the wonderful Lake Oberblegisee with plenty of places for a picnic or, if you are brave, a swim.
Getting There
Hüttenberg-Grotzenbüel gondola also runs in winter for winter sports
Take the LinthalValley to Braunwaldfunicular, then walk to Hüttenberg for the gondola to Grotzenbüel to begin the walk (1,559 m).
The trail ends at the Brunnenberg cable car that travels down to the Luchsingen Valley.
In the warmer months, this alpine valley in the Swiss Alps is accessible by bus and on foot. In winter when the valley is covered in snow it is possible to do the legendary 5.5 km sled run from Grosse Scheidegg, down through the valley to Schwarzwaldalp.
The Bernese Oberland offers some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in Europe while quietly keeping the Alpine farming traditions and heritage alive. When walking in the upper valley that runs between Meiringen to Grindelwald, you feel as if you have come to a truly authentic part of Switzerland. This valley offers vistas of mighty peaks, moorlands, mossy forests, tiny hamlets with traditional farms, and country Inns.
The sound of cowbells, the wild Rychenbach river, waterfalls and the sing song warning from the Post Bus as it navigates the tight bends on the valley road all remind you exactly where you are – so typically Swiss.
Where to Start
Summer
From Meiringen – Daily bus services from 18th May 2023 – 22 October 2023
Option 1: Walking the official Via Alpina trail which rises 400m/3 km from Meiringen township to the valley.
Option 2: Take the nostalgic cog railway up this section. This runs alongside the very famous 300-metre-high Reichenbach Falls. Made famous by Arthur Conan Doyle’s short story The Final Problem where Sherlock Holmes and Professor Moriarty fight on the ledge overlooking the falls.
Winter
From Meiringen – The bus timetable can be found at postauto.ch.
Toboggan Run: 5.5 km sled run from Grosse Scheidegg down to Schwarzwaldalp, then bus back to Meiringen.
Distances
Meiringen – Grosse Scheidegg Pass
Length: 15km Ascent: 1400m (from top of cog train 1,100 m)
Grosse Scheidegg Pass – Grindelwald
Length: 8km Descent: 930 m
Ways of seeing the area – from May to October
From mid-May to mid-October the yellow post buses help you getthrough the valley.
Options: 1. Walk 2. Take the bus 3. Walk and take the bus
There are plenty of places on the walk which move away from the road. Even so, there are around 10 bus stops along the route from the top of Reichenbach Fallsin Meiringen to Grosse Scheidegg.
The Grindelwald Bus goes from Grosse Scheidegg down to Grindelwald, taking about 30 mins.
Good to Know:Private cars are not allowed to drive over the Grosse Scheidegg Pass without a permit.
Pit Stops
The lovingly restored 18th-century Rosenlaui Hotel (12th May – 15th October) comes as a big surprise when seeing it for the first time. Up until arriving at this point we only saw traditional buildings. I thought we had perhaps taken the wrong turn and were heading into Grindelwald or Interlaken but no, this lovely and inviting Inn is in the middle of this valley.
Standing at the entrance to the Rosenlaui Gorge, this well-preserved hotel was built after an influx of 18th-century artists and poets fell in love with the region and needed somewhere to stay.
Note: There are no TVs or wifi in the building and there is a photo-free zone in all public areas. I didn’t realise this when taking the photo above…
The track starts in Willingen in Meiringen and climbs approx. 300 metres to the alpine valley alongside the Reichenbach Falls. The other option, the very civilised historical cog railway built in 1899, slowly takes you up the steep slope to the edge of the falls.
We used the cog railway for this walk for two reasons – a better view of the falls and an easy start to the 1,100-metre ascent to Grosse Scheidegg (we were determined to do this section without taking the bus).
Starting the walk
From the pretty village of Zwirgi, the trail goes gradually uphill through a forest beside the road, and for a short time, on the road. The track then leads deeper into the forest and then out to wide meadows with the iconic Wellhorn mountain dominating the skyline.
This grill has the best views you could ask for. I loved the rustic wooden shelter which seemed to have everything needed for a grill – seating, frypans, tongs and even an axe! We were tempted to stop but knew the Rosenlaui Hotel was close. We really felt like a cold drink, so after taking a few photos we moved on.
The Rosenlaui Hotel is gorgeous – lovely staff and an amazing setting. After a quick look at the little waterfall on the grounds of the Hotel (the waiter kindly let us know it was there), we made our way past the Rosenlaui Glacier Gorgeentrance – (a possible side trip), through a very mossy forest to the little hamlet of chalets at Schwarzwaldalp.
The final stage of this walk passes through wild woodlands with jaw-dropping views of the Wellhorn mountains and the Wetterhorn.
At this point of the walk, the trail becomes very steep but luckily there are plenty of benches for resting and refueling.
We celebrated our achievement with a drink at the Berghotel Grosse Scheidegg, then caught the bus to Grindelwald. This 30-minute bus ride can be seriously panoramic – depending on the weather.
There are plenty of other walks from Grosse Scheidegg. A couple of options:
Continue down the valley to complete stage 10 of the Via Alpina trail.
Across to First with views of majestic mountains Eiger, Schreckhorn and Wetterhorn. (First also offers one of Grindelwald’s top five adventures – flying across a sun terrace while strapped into a harness).
Links to Swiss Mobility Map
Swiss Mobility has a well-detailed map with a height profile and tips on saving altitude. A link to the complete Stage 10 of the Via Alpina trail (Meiringen – Grindelwald) can be found here. It is possible to continue onwards by following the Via Alpina – offical walking route number 1. This Route crosses 14 Alpine passes, with a distance of 390 km and has 20 stages.
Exploring the Swiss region of Engelberg is a perfect way to lift your spirits while witnessing the living traditions found throughout the rugged mountainous region. A walking trail through the Engelberger Aa River Valley passes through farming meadows, past waterfalls and cheese dairies and, in the warmer months, cows munching on wildflowers.
As soon as you reach the top of the Fürenalp gondola, deep in the Engelberg valley, the views are instantly staggering with a wall of rugged mountains, a deep valley and pretty meadows all around. Switzerland’s signature bright yellow hiking signposts point to the dirt trails that wind around corners and up hills hinting at the possibilities of more spectacular panoramas.
My family and I travelled on the Fürenalp gondola in late summer when slate grey clouds were threatening us from a distance. We knew it was just a matter of time before they rolled in, bringing heavy rain and stormy weather. We had just enough time to get up the small gondola and have a quick look around. For me this was a good opportunity to show my two teenagers that this would be an exciting place to explore and hike around in the coming days of our holiday – it worked. They both made me promise we would come back for a proper hike the next day.
Stäuber Waterfall Panoramic Hike
A lovely downhill hiking trail is the Stäuber panorama hike(9.2 km, 3 hours, medium difficulty). It starts at the top of the Fürenalp gondola (1,850 m) and gradually winds down through rocky meadows and pastures that, during the warmer months, are home to wildflowers and cattle. At the Stäuber waterfall, the trail turns back towards Engelberg it then runs along theriver valley,back to the Fürenalp car park with an alternative shorter version using the smaller Äbnet gondola.
All in one – wildflowers, cows, waterfalls and mountains. Photo by A.Leggett
Good to Know: The high-altitude grazing and wildflower diet give the cow’s milk and the cheese a special flavour – so it is worth trying out a cheese platter at one of the mountain dairies or restaurants.
Making our way down to the valley from Fürenalp. Photo by A.Leggett
The path eventually reaches a small cluster of buildings that are made up of the Surenen Kaserei (cheese dairy) and Usser Äbnet cable car– a possible shortcut option.
Äbnet Bahn, Alpkäse trail.Image from Engelberg Tourism
This shortcut would mean missing out on the lovely Stäuber waterfall that is tucked into the landscape at the turning point of this walk. From here there are also further walks to the wild Surenen Pass.
Looking towards the Surenen Pass with the pretty Stäuber waterfall below. Photo by A.Leggett
The waterfall is the point where the trail heads back toward Engelberg and Fürenalp cable car valley station. After zig-zagging down to the valley and passing over trickling springs, the trail runs alongside the wide, shallow Engelberger Aa River.
Hay-making involves special gondolas that help transport large bundles of hay down the steep terrain. Some of these “Burdi” (bale of hay in Swiss German) weigh around 60 kg so the farmers need all the help they can get with this back-breaking job.
Shaded spots can be found alongside the river.Photo by A.Leggett
We found this picnic spot by the river – massive boulders and trees provided lounging areas and shade.
From here the path passes some places offering food and drink (see below) and then crosses fields before reaching the cable car station’s carpark and bus stop – beware of the paragliders landing. I remember running through the fields to get out of their way (probably not a good idea) before finishing the walk – a last burst of energy. Am sure we didn’t need to worry, they seemed to have their landings all under control.
It is obviously important to respect the natural environment and farming areas by sticking to the trails. The farmers that graze their stock around the meadows in this area work hard to ensure the natural environment is protected, therefore, any visitors to the area need to do the same thing.
Food stops and other activities in the area
Alp Käserei and Beizli – (alpine cheese dairies and small restaurants)
The alpine cheese dairies (Alpkäserei) can be found dotted throughout the mountains in this region (open from mid-May to October) with the dairy products coming straight from the cows seen in the surrounding meadows. Two found on this hike areSurenenAlpkäserei which is part of the Äbnet gondola´s top station and Alpkäserei & Berggasthaus Stäfelitucked away in the valley.
Bouldering at Äbnet:Image from Engelberg-Titlis Tourism
For the more adventurous there are Klettergärten (rock climbing areas), a rope park (Seilpark) and, for experienced climbers, the Via Ferrata climb which offers a much more challenging way of reaching the Fürenalp mountain restaurant.
The Engelberger Valley is farmed in a way that is in harmony with the landscape. Because of the steep alpine pastures, it is only possible to do the cutting, raking, and bundling of hay manually – a system of farming that also contributes to the land’s biodiversity and protection.
Often the slopes on the Stanserhorn, Haldigrat and around Engelberg are even too steep for grazing – not sure how they discovered that – a cow avalanche maybe?
The Buiräbähnli gondolas are heavily relied on by farmers around the Engelberg valley. Photo by A.Leggett
The tradition of manually cutting, with hand sharpened scythes, and transporting the hay for the coming winter is known as “wild haymaking”. For hundreds of years, strong farmers have risked life and limb to work on the steep slopes high up from the valley floor and small open gondolas that look like awkwardly formed trailers have been relied on for shifting the hay, milk containers and sometimes people. These rustic lifts are called “Buiräbähnli” – a word that is almost impossible to pronounce by anyone that is not Swiss. If you look hard enough you will find them all over – their lines stretching up hills, mountains and across wide rivers beds. Nowadays it is possible to have a ride in some of the enclosed Buiräbähnliif you have a good head for heights.
Zürich Main Station:– Train to Engelberg (change at Lucerne) and shuttle bus from Engelberg to Fürenalp, 2 hours 15 mins. Check bus timetable on fürenalp.ch website as limited service in autumnand no service during the winter months.
LucerneMain Station:– Train to Engelberg and shuttle bus from Engelberg to Fürenalp, 1 hour 15 mins. Check bus timetable on fürenalp.ch website as limited service in Autumnand no service during the winter months.
By Car to Fürenalp gondola carpark:
Zürich centre:– 90km via A4, around 1 hour 20 mins depending on traffic
Zürich– Weesen(lakeside): Car – approx. 45 mins (63 km) on A3; Train – from Zürich main station it takes 1 hour, changing at Ziegelbrücke.
Walenseein Spring
In my opinion Spring is the best time to visit Walensee (Lake Walen). At this time of year the meadows are bursting with wildflowers and the Seerenbach falls are at their best with water gushing from a height of 600m down the cliff, spraying anything or anyone in its path. The sound of crickets and cow bells can be heard when crossing the meadows, and birdsong takes over when entering the forest paths.
The walk to Quinten with the option of a boat trip back
There is a wonderful 10.5 km hiking trail that starts in the town of Weesen, found at the western edge of the lake. From here it is possible to walk along the edge of the lake, through tunnels, meadows and forests and along a wooded cliff face before reaching the pretty town of Quinten (and the option to carry on to Au).
The Hike
The hike can be started from the centre of the town, or further down the northern side of the lake. This narrow road is popular with pedestrians who want to get to the various lakeside picnic spots or eateries that are found along this section. The lakeside area abruptly stops at a cliff face which seems to rise out of the lake shore.
From here it is only possible to continue by going through a narrow tunnel carved into the rock. Once through, the cliff face curves back again, giving space for a one-lane road. This is a great place to walk with one more tunnel before reaching Betlis. Cars are only allowed to travel through the tunnels at 30 minute intervals. This is made clear on a sign close to the tunnels‘ entrances.
Good to Know: When driving, you can park before the tunnels or at Betlis where the road ends. This will shorten the walk by around 2-3 km.
Swimming and BBQs – with both simple stone circles or proper grills and seating – you choose
The main trail starts from Betlis, an area with trees and meadows that slightly juts out into the lake. Betlis has BBQ spots, a swimming area, an ancient Roman Fort and a farm restaurant – Landgasthof Paradiesli. The ferry also stops here for travelling on the lake.
There is an option to dip inland for a close up of the impressive Seerenbachfalls. A signpost just back from the waterfall shows the way to Quinten.
After the waterfalls, the trail is often pretty steep with rocky, uneven paths that wind through forests and along wooded cliff faces – always with great lake and mountain views. There are some grilling possibilities and benches in and around the trees – good for a break from the steep path.
Quinten – arriving from the hiking path and leaving on the boat
The walk then descends steeply before reaching the vineyards at the lovely village of Quinten with its lush gardens and beautiful views. Here you can find a couple of restaurants with lake-side garden bars.
The Boat Trip Back
The boat leaves from here for a relaxing trip back to Weesen – See if you can spot the hiking path you just walked on – its really well hidden and I always have problems finding it.
Important to know – During the in between season (mid April – end of May) the ferries only operate on certain days – See below for a link to the Walensee boat website which has a PDF timetable.
Countryside near Lake Lucerne with Rigi in the background
Many of the places that I like to visit are popular. Lucerne, for example, with its idyllic lake setting and surrounding mountains and, of course, the nearby state of the art cable cars that climb iconic peaks like Pilatus, Stanserhorn and Titlis are also worth waiting in line for.
Fairytale medieval towns like Gruyères in canton Fribourg with its idyllic setting and hilltop castle along with the western town of Appenzell with its colorful houses, traditions and tasty cheese pull in the crowds.
These are places that should be on the itinerary when in Switzerland, even if they can be crowded at times. This is because they have managed to stay authentic and traditional despite all the visitors, souvenir shops and tour buses.
However, is is easy to find other places in these regions that are just as idyllic, but a bit more off the tourist track. All it takes is a day trip by local train, bus, or a drive in the car to find them.
I discovered the places in this post when I was visiting Gruyères town and the region of la Gruyère, Appenzell – canton and town, St. Gallen and Lucerne. I have gone into great detail about getting around (Getting There Section) because I think the drive or train journey there can be just as entertaining as the destination.
A friend and I decided to visit the Schaukäserei (show cheese dairy) in Stein, canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden. This cheese dairy has recently been renovated and now has an exhibition that showcases the Appenzell cheese brand and the traditional family-run dairies in the area.
After learning about the culture and the cheese-making process of the region, we decided to zip up our jackets and take off into the countryside for a short walk.
There is a detailed signpost close to the dairy giving us all the options – themed walks, hill walks, mountain hikes, official Swiss trails… we just wanted to get some fresh air.
We found a combination of walks that meant we could circle around, back to the car. It was only about 2km of walking so suited our schedule.
Yellow benches, can be found all over the countryside, tempting us to sit and look at the panorama of deep green hills dotted with traditional Appenzell farms (probably a few cheese dairies as well).
While we walked and chatted we had great views of the Alpstein mountains rising up sharply, a distant view of Lake Constance and also many more little yellow benches.
You could almost do a join the dots with these benches – the shape would probably be a cow or goat.
We used one to stop for a snack. From here we could see the little town of Stein with its church steeple pointing elegantly upwards and hear cowbells clanging away in all directions. It was all so typically Swiss!
We made it back to the car in record time with a promise to each other that we will do this again but next time we will try the mountain hike.
A small museum next door to the cheese dairy (Volkskunde Museum) exhibits all sorts of historical Appenzell treasures to do with agriculture, housing and traditions. You can view historical items which have been beautifully crafted and preserved. It is possible to get a combi ticket for the cheese diary and museum.
Something fun close by . . .
Kronberg (1,657 m) Cable Car, summer Toboggan Run and Rope Park
This cable car leaves from Jakobsbad (884 m), between the villages of Urnäsch and Gonten. Jakobsbad rail station is on a small railway track that goes from Appenzell (12 mins).
There is also a large Seilpark (rope park) here. They have plenty of challenging rope obstacles to negotiate as well as 25 different ziplines that zip around the park. You can also find a Barfussweg (barefoot path) near the cable car station and hiking paths.
Getting to Stein and Jakobsbad in Appenzell
By Public Transport
From Zürich to SteinAR, change at Rapperswil & Herisau, 1 hour 40 mins.
From Zürich to SteinAR, change at St. Gallen, 1 hour 40 mins.
From St. Gallen to SteinAR, 20 mins by bus.
When travelling from Appenzell to SteinAR by public transport, athough they are close as the crow flies, it is still a 50 mins to 1 hr train/bus trip. It is better to go from St. Gallen or perhaps by doing a hike.
Toggenburg is a hilly and mountainous region that sits south of Lake Constance. It is around an 1 hr 20 mins drive or a 2-hour train journey from Zürich.
This region with its wide valley extends southward from Highway 1 – the northern motorway crossing Switzerland – almost down to the main western road skirting the Austria and Liechtenstein borders.
The landscape is mostly countryside with pretty houses sitting around the green slopes that rise up gently from the Thur river valley. This long valley is framed by rugged, and sometimes sharp mountain peaks of the Alpstein Massif to the northeast and the Churfirsten Massif to the west.
The Churfirsten Massif is very distinctive with its jagged peaks that look a bit like pointy teeth.
More about these peaks and hiking suggestions can be found on my canton St. Gallenpage.
The Churfirsten Massif’s “pointy teeth” in winter
This region offers plenty of ways to get above the fog in autumn or winter. There are several cable cars and chairlifts that lead up to themed hiking trails, alpine trails, ski pistes, lookout points and alpine restaurants. One option is the well-hidden Wolzenalp area.
View from Wolzenalp Chairlift to Säntis (left) and the Churfirsten mountains (right)
This little chairlift station is well hidden from the road – in fact, we didn’t really see it until we drove past. Once you see it there is no mistaking what it is. The side of the station has the word Wolzenalp painted a colourful sky blue with a bright yellow sun smiling above it.
What not to do – don’t choose Krummenau-Wolzenalp in the SatNav – this will take you up this winding road to the top of the chair lift. Most of this narrow country road is only for use by locals and cyclists. Instead, put in Wolzenalp, Krummenswil. There is also the Krummenau train station a few minutes walk away from the bottom chairlift station.
From the top of the chairlift, there is a short walk through part of the moor and alongside a good grill spot to the restaurant with terrace and also the start of loads of walking possibilities.
We followed the white/red/white signs painted on rocks, posts, and buildings. We would’ve been lost without them.
The steep climb was worth it just to see this view
We were going to walk to Speer (a jagged, imposing peak at 1900 metres above sea level), but decided to do the Gebirgsrundweg (mountain circular trail) instead. That was challenging enough. At one point we were zig-zagging up a very steep hillside with no clear path to follow. The one thing you can count on is the white, red, white stripes painted on – amongst other things – rocks, buildings and fence posts, that are spread out like breadcrumbs along the trail.
view from chair lift up to Wolzenalp
We followed these up steep hills, through meadows, across a lovely soft moor landscape – a bit like walking on a moss-covered mattress – then finally back downhill to the restaurant. Was a great walk with views of quiet spaces and hidden corners. I loved it!
Next time to Speer – maybe.
Waldhaus – Toggenburg
Other hiking paths leave from Waldhaus in the Toggenburg Region – also great for winter walks, snowshoeing, sledding and skiing.
Getting to Toggenburg
By Public Transport
From Zürich to Krummenau – takes 1 hour 18 mins, changing twice. Once at Rapperswil (down the side of Lake Zürich and also worth a visit).
From St. Gallen to Krummenau The S2 train takes 45 mins with no changes.
By Car:
From central Zürich – takes just over an hour, via Winterthur (A1) or down the west side of Lake Zürich (A3).
Links
Wolzenalp:
Link to video showing the ski resort and winter activities. (Beautiful video)
Even though Rigi sounds like the name of just one mountain, it is actually a Massif made up of several peaks, valleys and meadows. Rigi is on the edge of Lake Lucerne on one side and a wide valley that is home to Zug, Arth Goldau and Schwyz on the other. It spans two cantons – Schwyz and Lucerne.
This mountainous area has been a popular hiking and leisure region for hundreds of years. According to the tourist booklet “Rigi, Queen of the Mountains“, by Ron Smith, the rack railway that climbs from Vitznau at the edge of Lake Lucerne up the side of Rigi, first opened in 1871. It was apparently the first of its kind in Europe.
I recently did a day trip up the mountain, hoping to get above the clouds – I was mostly successful.
I hopped on the sleek bronze Sudostbahn (southeast) train from Zürich early in the morning and travelled alongside Lakes Zürich and Zug to my destination, Arth Goldau.
Right from the beginning of the trip from Zürich to Arth Goldau, there is some lovely scenery. This trip runs along Lake Zürich (left side of the train) with the city spread along hillsides on both sides and the alps rising up in the distance. The next stop is the town of Zug and its lake (right side of the train). Lush green hills rise up from the lake and more mountain peaks can be seen in the distance.
The last stop – Arth Goldau is a large town found at the end of Lake Zug.
The RigiBahn cog train leaves from the edge of this train station, slowly snaking its way around the mountain to the highest summit – Rigi Kulm. The train travels through forests in the Rigiaa valley (this is not a spelling mistake – Aa derives from the name for small European river) and past small stations with names like Klösterli and Fruttli, upwards to the Rigi Kulm peak.
Rigi Kulm – Train station inWinter; Arriving in the fog; View of Lake Zug once the fog had cleared
It was very quiet on the summit. Only about half a dozen people left the train with me which seemed a small amount considering how popular this place is for the Swiss. I then noticed that the restaurant and terrace were closed and the lookout point was disappearing in the cloud. So the fact that I ended up alone at the top was no longer a surprise. (Not sure where the other people disappeared to… somewhere in the fog – I didn’t see them again).
The clouds soon cleared and I had a magnificent 360-degree view – all on my own.
There’s a small and friendly tearoom with outdoor benches and toilets beside the tracks which was good enough for a refuel before starting my walk.
Warning – as these are the only two options at the top, some of the food and all of the drinks are pricey.
Other options are the farm restaurants and grill spots along the way. Alp Chäserenholz is a tavern that can be found around 1.5km downhill from the start of the walk. This place offers some special treats – but you will need to reserve. A Whey bath, hot tub and sauna! Here is the link for more information. Chäserenholzhütte
If the tavern is full – there is a largebbq across the track and another few further down the path.
There are around 120 km of prepared hiking trails in summer and around 35 km in winter available on Rigi. My small walk was just the start. It is possible to get a Rigi Hiking Ticket which gives you the chance to combine hikes with transport on the cable cars and trains. See the rigi.ch/hiking-ticketlink for details.
Although this hike is mostly on farm roads, it still feels remote.
Klösterli Train station – it is like stepping back in time when entering this small station.
My walk from Rigi Kulm – Rigi’s peak – down to Klösterli train station
Travelling to Rigi Kulm (Lake Zug side) and Rigi Kaltbad then Kulm (Lake Lucerne side).
Public Transport:
By Boat on Lake Lucerne:
When travelling by boat from Lucerne there are 2 towns that have transport up to Rigi Kulm (the top) – Weggis or Vitznau:
Weggis to Rigi Kaltbad on the cable car, then cog rail up to Rigi Kulm.
Vitznau to Rigi Kulm on the cog rail.
By Train:
From Lucerne to Arth Goldau – takes about 32 mins.
From Zürich, via Zug to Arth Goldau. Takes 40-45 mins.
Then the cog rail to Rigi Kulm (top) takes about 45 mins.
By Car:
From Zürich via Zug to the RigiBahn cog railway at Arth Goldau train station. Takes 40-45 mins.
From Lucerneto Arth Goldau. Takes 25-40 mins.
From Lucerne to Weggis and Vitznau. Takes 25-45 mins.
The small medieval town of Gruyères is lovely. It is in a magnificent position on the slope of a hill, topped by a fairytale 13th-century castle whose ramparts offer a breathtaking panoramic view. So, it is understandable that this is a popular place for both tour buses and independent tourists.
It is easily accessible from Bern or the Lake Geneva region. To avoid the crowds, an early start is a good idea.
Travel to Broc Fabrique (chocolate factory), then walk through the Jogne gorges to Charmey. At Charmey the LesBains de la Gruyère (thermal baths), like Gruyères and the Jaun Pass, also have panoramic views – but while sitting in a thermal pool. They also offer treatments and wellness packages.
Photo by R. Harris
Photo by A.Leggett
Travel on the Jaun Pass. This pass branches off from Reidenbach in the Simmental valley, canton Bern then winds its way up westward to Im Klang, near Charmey in canton Fribourg. The link from Reidenbach to Charmey is approximately 25 km long and takes about 35 minutes to drive.
It passes through several small settlements and the pretty Jaun village. There is a rest areas and camping ground at the top of the pass with numerous hiking tracks branching off the road. This is a photo of me a few years ago, checking out a walk from the top of the pass (1508 m), where my mum and I bought a snack for eating at the next bench along the road.
There were no benches so we just ate the food sitting on a rock – after getting back in the car and travelling for a few minutes – we came across this bench – Murphys Law.
In winter: There are possibilities for skiing at the top of the pass and around Jaun. This ski area offers:
family friendly skiing with easy downhill slopes
sledding
winter walking and snowshoeing trails
cross-country skiing in the valley
Jaun Dorf Wasserfall Pays d’Enhaut, Schluchtenwanderung Cascade Jaun @Jan Geerk – Switzerland Tourism (2).jpg
Visit the mystical Jaun waterfall while at the village of Jaun. The source was a mystery until the 1920’s, when it was discovered that the water travels underground for 15 km, before emerging at this spring. Many people find this to be a fascinating place and a source of wellbeing.
Do a circular car journey from Gruyères to Gstaad and Zweisimmen, then back along the Jaunpass to the village of Jaun. From Jaun, the trip to Broc (home to Callier chocolate factory) is about 18 km (20 mins), then Gruyères is another 5 km.
I re-created this route on Google Maps. It came out at exactly 100km long, with a travelling time of around 2 hrs.
Drive through the Jaunpass from Spiez, on lakeThun, arriving in Charmey late in the day. Or travel by public transport, stopping at hiking spots on the way through the Jaunpass. When driving this takes about 1 hour
Travel Timeto BrocFabrique (chocolate factory)
Public Transport:
From Lausanne is around 1 hr 20 mins with train and then bus connection at Bulle.
From Bern is around 1 hr 30 mins with train and then bus connection at Bulle.
By Car:
From Lausanne, via Vevey is 45 mins (mostly motorway) to 1 hr. The second option goes alongside lake Geneva so pretty views – especially along the Route duLac through Rivaz and Saint Saphorin.
From Bern, via Fribourg is around 55 minutes.From Fribourg, around 30 mins.
I recently visited the remote village of Grimentz in the Val d’Anniviers while staying in Sierre in the Rhône Valley.
Although the Val d’Anniviers is very accessible from Sierre (bus and car, not train), it is still a nerve-tingling road trip.
I decided to travel by bus, letting someone else worry about the switchbacks and narrow roads.
Road Trip – the adventure
I had only glanced briefly at the road map before doing this journey, thinking that the bus would take me down the valley, then zig-zag for a short while before arriving in Grimentz. I was wrong. If you look closely at a map, you will see that the zig-zagging starts early, then the road cuts into the side of the steep mountains – very high up.
The buses find it particularly tricky as they often need to use both sides of the road to negotiate these switchbacks. They will alert oncoming traffic in the nicest possible way. If you have been on any mountain road on a post bus you will know what I mean. They toot the horn which has a very distinctive & loud sing-song tune. On this particular journey, it can be heard regularly – after a few tight corners, the sing-song horn started to sound suspiciously like brace, brace, brace!
Vissoie Village Centre, Photo by A.Leggett
I was sitting beside the window closest to the drop, having a look now and then, only to see … nothing except the valley below. What amazed me was how calm all the other passengers seemed. Now and then I would frantically look around, hoping to share my obvious nervous energy with others. No one even looked at me, in fact, most of the passengers were chatting calmly or nodding off. I assumed they were locals. Their relaxed states did help calm me somewhat.
Vissoie (1204 m) is located around the centre of the valley and during the trip, the valley floor gradually gains altitude and the road’s curves become more gentle. By the time we arrived the sing-song horn was no longer needed and I had regained my composure.
From Vissoie the road splits in several directions. One way is towards my destination, Grimentz (1572 m) – higher on the southwest side of the valley; or the route to Ayer (1475 m) and Zinal (1675 m) on the southeast side. Another road zig-zags eastward to St-Luc (1,655 m). Due to Vissoie’s geographical location, this is a stage in the trip when passengers need to change buses. When I arrived there was a flurry of people with backpacks and walking poles, moving from one bright yellow bus to another, ready to continue their journey further along the valley.
After all the twists and turns of the road trip, Vissoie feels quite remote but at the same time, it has the look of a resort-style alpine village. At this point, I was looking longingly at the terraced restaurants and chalet-style cafés decorated with bright red geraniums, wanting to stop for a while before moving on, but, of course, Swiss public transport runs like clockwork and my next bus was ready to leave, with or without me.
The road from Vissoie to Grimentz passes through hills and steep meadows rather than dramatic cliffs with beautiful views down the valley.
All in all, it was an amazing experience with unbelievable views – and despite my obvious nervousness, the drivers are experts, and the roads are well maintained and safe.
The Rustic Historical Buildings and some of their Stories
This picturesque village, filled with geraniums in summer, is considered to be one of the most traditional villages of Valais. This is down to the authenticity of its centre. Many of the buildings have been incredibly well preserved with the narrow streets, alleyways and courtyards still feeling like they would have hundreds of years ago.
Traditionally this valley was home to nomadic inhabitants who lived for part of the year in the Rhône Valley. Nowadays fewer people live this way although, in summer, some residence move down to the valley to work in the vineyards.
When visiting the information centre, it is possible to purchase a guide booklet that has a simple numbered map that showing and explaining places of interest in the town.
These are some of the stories from this village:
Looking towards the main square and Bourgeoisie house
One of the oldest houses in Grimentz, found at the far end of this street, was built between 1480 and 1550. This house belonged to the “Bourgeoisie”. The exclusive membership included priority access to services like the mill and sawmill. Being a member was also a way of contributing to the community.
In 1873 a cross was erected to protect the village against fire and the elements.
The mill was understandably an important part of all the villages in this region – since it played a big part in keeping the locals fed. In Grimentz its location also housed the sawmill, bread oven, bread room and slaughterhouse.
There are three animated fountains in the village. The mill worker fountain, a fountain representing fighting Héren cows and the fountain of the baker.
A landslide in 1999 caused both the mill and the original fountain of the baker to be destroyed. The mill was then built with the original materials and the baker’s fountain was also reconstructed.
The Bread House offers tourists the opportunity to make bread in the original bread room every week. Winter: from mid-December to mid-April; Summer: from the beginning of July to the end of October. A notice on the door advises that on the days of bread making there will be smoke coming out of the building and not to be alarmed.
Originally the bread house was where families would come to make bread for the season – four times a year. The bread would, of course, harden over time but families simply cut it with an axe and soaked it in milk, coffee or soup. Perhaps we could learn a thing or two from this.
The houses in the old town mostly date from the 17th and 18th centuries. They are all made of larch which is darkened with time.
The original storehouses and granaries can be seen throughout the old town streets. They date from the 17th century. The stilts are to prevent rodents from getting in and to keep the provisions dry.
Things like dried meat, bread and flour were kept here.
Glacier Wine (Vin du Glacier)
I remember someone telling me that if you like the wine, then it is a good one… I am really curious as to how this particular wine tastes. Hint Hint.
To explain the principle behind Vin du Glacier wine, I have quoted the explanation from the Val d’Anniviers website:
“The principle of the Vin du Glacier is simple: the barrels are never emptied. Every year new wine is added to the old. For example :
– The wine in a barrel from 1888 will be blended with one from 1886 – Wine from 1934 will top up the 1888 barrel – Wine from 1969 will be used to top up the 1934 barrel and will in turn receive new wine in later years
The “Vin du Glacier” cannot be bought. It can only be savoured in the cellars of Anniviers, drawn directly from the barrel.
The cellar of the Maison Bourgeoisiale (ancient Community House) houses among others the famous Bishop’s Barrel. The wine in this larch-wood barrel dates from 1886. Once destined to the Bishop, it is served nowadays to VIP guests on special occasions.“
Quote from https://www.valdanniviers.ch/en/glacier-guided-tour-house-bourgeoisie-grimentz-960.html
It is possible to taste the Vin du Glacier wine while visiting Grimentz. (Minimum of 4 people and the language is French). Currently, it is limited to specific dates, weekly, on Mondays at 5 pm. Therefore it is best to arrange any wine tasting at the Grimentz Tourism office or Val d’Anniviers website.
Alpage de la Lée ( La Lée Alpine Pastures)is in a far corner of the Val d’Anniviers
Right at the end of the valley, there are around 800 hectares of pastures in the Alpage de la Lée area. They are spread over different levels from the Plats de la Lée up to the Zinal glacier and between the Navisence River in the valley and themountain peaks high above the valley on the west side.
In the area known as Le Vichiesso, a former alpine pasture, you will find a tsigière (alpine chalet) reconstructed in the traditional style, (a cheesestoreroom can be visited on request). Vichiesso pastures and buildings give an idea of life on the alpine pastures in the past.
Information panels can be found leading up toPetit Mountet mountain hut(2142 m) – open for eating and sleeping from June to October. There are some more traditional huts on the further up.
To get there see my orientation & info tab
Video by Cabane du Petit Mountet – Val d’Anniviers
Bisse des Sarrisins (Irrigation channels of the Saracens)
It is believed that Saracens built the irrigation channel, however, this has never been proven. They are estimated to have been built between 1415 and 1513 when the channel’s source was at a Moulinet (downstream from Pinsec).
The Bisse des Sarrisins irrigation channel is 10 km long and was used for watering livestock, irrigating the pastures and operating sawmills and mills.
Restored in the early 2000s, the Bisse des Sarrasins path is now accessible to hikers. It connects Pinsec to Vercorin and can also be reached from the village of Fang.
You will need a good head for heights in various parts on various parts of this trail.
Useful information
Season for hiking: from May to November
Duration: Approx. 3 hours
Includes: 17 educational panes along the route
Important
This mountain route is medium difficulty
It should only be attempted in dry weather
You will need a head for heights in some places
It’s each person’s responsibility to look for any changes to conditions or the roads/track before doing it.
Below is a link for more information on Bisse des Saracens and other hikes:
This Val D’Anniviers page gives details on popular trails including the Bisse des Saracens hike and hikes to alpine lakes and alpine huts.
I
Visiting the Mills
The Grimentz mills date back to 1716. They were renovated in the early 1970s, and a vertical waterwheel was installed on the south façade to recreate a working site.
As mentioned on the village tab, the mill was refurbished in the traditional style, with millstones and a horizontal blade drive system, after part of it was badly damaged in May 1999
The Saint-Luc mills (Les Moulins Saint-Luc) can be found near Saint-Luc, down at the Torrent des Moulins river. These mills were built in the 16th century and renovated in 1986. On the site of the mills, you will find a corn mill, barley and nut press, 2 rye and wheat mills, a cloth mill, and the miller’s house. See the local tourism office for opening times
To get there and map see my orientation & info tab
Winter in Vissoie Village as seen from St Luc
In the past, the steep elevation of the mountains in this part of Valais caused the region to become isolated. This resulted in the formation of some unique regional dialects. Although the local population still use these dialects, they also speak standard French and German.
Interesting Fact:
The western part of the canton is mostly French-speaking (Valais) and the eastern part (Wallis) is mostly German-speaking. The mountain ridges between Val d’Anniviers and the Turtmanntal valley are considered the imaginary line or “Röstigraben” that separates the two. The clue is in the names of the valleys – Tal is German, Val is French.
See Below for Transport Information
Places mentioned in this post are displayed on the map
Transport Information
Buses leave regularly from Sierre to Vissoie (change here for connections to further down the valley, or across to St Luc). See sbb.ch for timetable and route information.
Main Routes
Sierre – Vercorin
Sierre – Vissoie
Vissoie – St-Luc
Vissoie – Grimentz
Vissoie – Grimentz – Lac de Moiry
Vissoie – (stops at Ayer) – Zinal
Cable Cars, Gondolas, chairlifts and St Luc’s Funicular
On the trail between Moosfluh & Hohfluh viewing platforms. Photo by A.Leggett
The Great Aletsch Glacier – A UNESCO World Heritage Site
In 2001, the Aletsch Glacier & Jungfrau-Aletsch Protected Area was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site.
The Aletsch Glacier is over 20km long and the largest glacier in the Alps – however, sadly, it is rapidly receeding. Pro Natura (A Swiss nature & environment organisation) reports that this impressive glacier is retreating by up to 50m in length each year as well as shrinking at the edges.
There are four viewing platforms to see the Glacier. They give brilliant views of the glacier and a 360-degree view of mountains. It is possible (depending on the platform/area) to see Aletschhorn, Matterhorn, Jungfrau, Mönch, Eiger, Dom & Weissmies mountains.
This hike takes you along a trail that mostly follows the ridgeway between Moosfluh to Riederfurka. You walk through a landscape of boulders and stones carpeted with alpine plants and moss – some very rare. After passing the Hohfluh chairlift the landscape becomes softer with trees dotted around and a few small ponds.
The whole walk is stunning, with almost constant views of the Aletsch Glacier and the massive mountains on the other side.
Gondolas from Mörel
When I did this trip I was staying in Kandersteg, in a valley south of Interlaken. I couldn’t believe how easy it was to get to the Aletsch Arena gondolas considering there are huge mountains between Kandersteg and the Rhône Valley. The solution: a simple train trip through a long tunnel, a change at Brig and a 10-minute bus trip to the Mörel (Riederalpbahn) stop. I love the Swiss transport system!
The bus stop is right outside the Riederalp Mitte gondola valley station in Mörel. This gondola goes up to Riederalp Village, then the next ride – Gletscherbahn Moosfluh is within walking distance.
When reaching the top of the Moosfluh gondola (2,333 m)you are surrounded by an incredible rocky alpine landscape, and, like the icing on the cake – the view of the Aletsch Glacier and craggy mountains just stuns. For me, this was a definite WOW moment. I couldn’t figure out why everyone around me was just calmy walking around – I felt like jumping up and down and saying, ‘Are you Serious’!
The trail splits and joins up again for most of the hike. You can normally choose which path you want to take as they all end up at the same place. The yellow signposts indicate when the path leads to a different route so it is important to stop and look at the signs before continuing. Also, as I found out, there are often plenty of seasoned hikers who are happy to help point you in the right direction.
Hohfluh lookout Photo by A.Leggett
If you want to stop the hike here and use the Hohfluh chairlift, I would recommend checking out its seasonal operating times as the summer season is quite short (see the Practical Information tababove).
From the Hohfluh chairlift, the landscape becomes greener with trees dotted around, offering a bit of shade. The path then goes away from the glacier, winding slightly downhill to the Riederfurka area.
The ancient Aletsch forest is home to the oldest trees in Switzerland – according to the Pro Natura Centre Aletsch which is found at Riederfurka. There are hiking trails through the forest from various points along this route.
The Riederfurka area has facilities – restaurants and self-service options. There is also the informative Pro Natura Centre (The building that looks a bit like a castle) with information on the glacier, flora & fauna – including the ancient forest – and the nature protection area. From Riederfurka it is a downhill walk to the village of Riederalp andthe Riederallp West gondola station.
Riederalp West gondola
At the end of the walk, Riederalp village looked very inviting as somewhere to stop for a while. However, I needed to get back down and figure out where my accommodation was in Sierre.
Hiking around here is truly amazing – I would definitely recommend it but keep an eye on busy times – school holidays, weekends etc. as the Aletsch Arena is popular – as you would expect.
Map and details of my walk in the Aletsch Arena
Viewing areas – from East to West
Eggishorn is the highest viewing area in the Aletsch Arena (2,869m). It offers a 20km view of the Aletsch Glacier plus it is possible to view Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau on a clear day.
Bettmerhorn (2,647 m). Apart from the viewing platform, there is a Glacier World Bettmerhorn multimedia exhibition. Bettmerhorn viewing platform is barrier-free
Moosfluh (2,333 m) & Hohfluh are reasonably close together and there is a stunning panorama hike between the two. Moosfluh offers a higher viewpoint of the glacier when looking one way, and the squiggly hiking trails can clearly be seen when looking towards the west. This platform is about 100 metres from the cable car.
HohFluh viewing point is where you have one of the best views of the glacier’s curves and also the forest nature reserve that slopes downwards toward the glacier.
Some public transport information for travelling up to the Aletsch Glacier, fromMörel, Betten & Fiesch in the Rhône Valley
Public Transport (2021) – please check below for operating times& sbb.ch for times & stops.
Trains operate from:
Visp, end station Andermatt & Brig, end station Fiesh (via Betten)
Buses operate from:
Brig, end station Fiesch
Regular connections:
Sion and Sierre in the west and Bern, Spiez & Kandersteg in the north
Gondola & Cable car connections & operating times
Mörel to Moosfluh lookout and trails
1. Take Riederalp Mitte gondola to Riederalp. 2. Walk to Gletscherbahn Moosfluh, (a combination of gondolas & chairs in winter but only gondolas in summer).
Mörel to Hohfluh lookout and trails
1. Take the Riederalp Mitte or Riederalp West gondolas to Riederalp. 2. Walk to Hohfluh chairlift. (limited operating times, see below).
Betten to Bettmerhorn lookout and trails
1. Take the Bettmeralp cable car to Bettmeralp. 2. 15 minute walk to Bettmerhorn gondola. 3. Take the Bettmerhorn gondola.
Fiesch to Eggishorn lookout and trails
1. Take the Fiesch gondola to Fiescheralp. 2. Take the Fiescheralp gondola to Eggishorn.
The Seasonal Operating Times 2021 (for up-to-date info go to either aletscharena.ch or sbb.ch):
Summer/Autumn 2021
5. June 2021 until 24. October 2021
Riederalp (Chair Lift) – Hohfluh 3. July until 15. August 2021
Riederalp (Gondola) – Moosfluh 5. June until 24. October 2021
Bettmeralp – Bettmerhorn 5 June until 24 October 2021
Fiescheralp – Eggishorn 5 June until 24 October 2021
The Gemmi is a historical crossing of the northern Alpine chain. This north/south crossing – between Kandersteg and Leukerbad, was once a significant route used by the Celts, Romans, and the Alemanni (Germanic tribes). For hundreds of years, it was also a crossing point for nobility, writers and artists alike. Attractions such as its incredible wild beauty, the thermal baths in Leukerbad, and its convenience as a crossing all played parts in its popularity.
Today it is considered to be the “Klassiker der Schweizer Wanderklassiker,” which translates as the classic of the Swiss hiking classics.
The Landscape
The hiking path, popular with the Swiss, passes through an amazing natural environment – from boulder-strewn landscapes, past alpine lakes & rugged cliffs rising abruptly upwards, to soft meadows with ancient trees and the most incredible sweeping views to look at every step of the way.
Getting There
Trains frequently run through the Rhône Valley and are a great way to start your journey up into the mountains, both north and south.
Train & Bus:
Trains run from the main Rhône Valley towns – Sion, Sierre, Visp and Leuk, and from the north – Interlaken & Spiez, to Leuk (731m).
Busesconnect at Leuk train station(731m) to Leukerbad(1,411m) – (no train service for this route).
The road up to Leukerbad is steep with numerous switchbacks – approx. 30 mins. From here you can walk for 11 mins or take a connecting bus (see sbb.ch for all train and bus timetables)
The Hike – Leukerbad Cable Car (Valais) to Kandersteg, Sunnbüel Cable Car (Bernese Oberland)
Distance:
8.5 km (+ 2 km diversion for Arven Forest circular walk)
Best Time of Year:
June – Oct (although this pass can also be visited in winter for winter walking and sports)
Duration:
2.5 hrs (3-3.5 hrs incl. circular walk through Arven Forest)
Difficulty:
Moderate, reasonable stamina (and good hiking boots).
A Gemmi Pass hiking map can be found at the bottom of this page.
Gemmi Trail
Don’t get the Gemmi Pass hike confused with the Gemmi Trail. The Trail is a difficult ascent from Leukerbad up to the top of the Gemmi cable car. It is extremely challenging (900 metres in 2 hours) but would also be a great achievement. You would be following in the footsteps of some famous names – Goethe, Mark Twain, Lenin and Picasso (according to the Leukerbad Tourism site).
I did this walk a few years ago – it is one I had wanted to do for a while and was well worth the wait. The walk starts at the top of the thrilling Leukerbad cable car (can be done from either direction). From here, you follow the signposts pointing towards Kandersteg. The sign indicates that the hike takes 4 hours, however, that is only if you decide not to take the Sunnbüel cable car & bus at the end of this walk. (I confirmed this with some seasoned walkers).
We soon came across Daubensee which lies at 2207m. Once reaching this impressive lake, you can see the path stretching off into the distance, giving an idea of what is coming up. The main path is on the right-hand side of the lake which was a bit of a relief to me as the other path, which you can also do, looked pretty challenging.
After the lake, you start to go downhill through rocky terrain, past loads of weather-beaten boulders. If you use your imagination, they start looking like strange creatures from another world.
After about 30 minutes you can see the Schwarenbach restaurant in the distance. you can stop here for a drink or snack and, of course, a toilet break. The hiking trail goes between the tables on the terrace and past a small kiosk which sells postcards and, sometimes, sun hats etc. – very civilised.
From this point, the views change with most of the rocks and boulders now covered with plants and trees.
It is possible to do a small diversion into the Arven Forest (Arvenwald) after about 6 km into the walk. The diversion is clearly marked as a Rundweg (circular path) which will bring you back on the trail to Sunnbüel. Make sure to follow the yellow signposts and diamonds that show the way. This will also take you past two small lakes called Arvenseeli – however, these are often dried up in summer.
After the forest, there are several ascents. At this point, it’s pretty satisfying to look back to see how far you have come.
When arriving at the very welcoming Bergrestaurant Sunnbüel you can see views of the Kandersteg region including the impressive Gasterntal (Gastern Valley which I am visiting and will be writing about soon). The cable car is here and it leaves every half hour but, as with a lot of these cable cars, it goes more often during busy times.
There is also the option to walk down rather than take the cable car although I haven’t done this myself. Note: In the past, the Sunnbüel cable car wouldn’t accept credit cards, only cash.
The bus from the valley to Kandersteg (March 2024) leaves every hour (until 18:56 in summer) see sbb.ch for up-to-date information.
Bad Ragaz is a thermal resort surrounded by water. You can hear the Tamina river roaring through the town, making its way from deep inside the Tamina Gorge. Waterfalls feed the river as it carves its way through the rugged Tamina valley, to finally pour into the powerful Rhein. Meanwhile, the town’s elegantly designed fountains bubble away softly and the healing waters of the Tamina Thermal Baths gently soothe with their hot pools, massaging jets and steam rooms.
My first visit to Bad Ragaz and Termina Thermal Baths was a couple of years ago. A friend and I were browsing through Switzerland’s public transport website (sbb.ch) for relaxing day trip ideas. They offer combi deals – transport + activity or experience at discounted prices.
We found a good spa deal and neither of us had visited Bad Ragaz before, so off we went. We had a nice relaxing time and I recommend both the town and the spa for a place to recharge your batteries.
The things I thought made this day spa experience special were:
The mountain views from the outdoor pool.
The steam room – outside the sauna area (where you can keep on your bathing suit)
The opportunity to join in a mineral salt experience – which includes being handed your mineral salts
The beautifully designed building with huge oval windows.
The large amount of jets – in the large indoor and outside pool.
… and of course, a relaxing walk through the resort’s lovely town then a coffee or spritzer at a cafe before the train trip home. This definitely adds to the experience.
Bus & hike or drive to the historic settlement of Sankt Martin, Pfäfers at the edge of an alpine reservoir – also found in the Sardona Tectonic Arena.
Scientists are still unsure about the origins of Tamina’s thermal water. It’s presumed that the waters originate from the Tödi region in canton Glarus, seeping down about 1,000 metres underground. This causes the water to warm and, after about 10 years, it gradually rises through crevasses into the gorge. The mineral water temperature is a constant 36.5 Celsius at the point it emerges, and is soft and free from bacteria. This Grand Resort Bad Ragaz video explains it all perfectly:
There have been thermal baths here since the 16th Century. A museum and information about the story of the baths and the thermal waters can be found at the Altes Bad Pfäfers (old Pfäfers baths) and inside the gorge.
After leaving the town it is a short walk to the Tamina Valley walking trail:
This walk begins at the centre of Bad Ragaz and follows the Badtobelweg. This narrow road runs alongside the Tamina river and ends at the enclosed part of the Tamina gorge (about 4.5 km). The only vehicle allowed on this road is bus 453 that runs from Bad Ragaz train station.
Tamina Valley walk to gorge – bbq and bus stop. A Leggettby bbq spot – Tamina Valley approx. halfway point with bus stopThe Badtobel grill and picnic spot offer a great place to stop and eat in a lovely setting. There are toilets, benches and tips on different ways to cook your sausages. This place doubles as the Badtobel bus stop.
The post bus easily manages to fit through the gap.
There are plenty of opportunities to cool off. Water cascades or trickles down the rockface all along the walk.
The gorge becomes wild and rugged in places – giving the gorge a tropical feel.
Walking under the TaminaBrücke (Tamina Bridge). The largest arched bridge in Switzerland.
Facing the old Pfäfers Baths from the entrance to springs.
Once reaching the gorge through a large opening and turnstile, there is a fenced-off walkway curving alongside the rockface, with water spraying past, and sometimes directly onto it – so expect to get a bit wet when entering.
There is an entrance charge for this enclosed part of the gorge. Tickets are available at the old baths Pfäfer which you walk through just before entry. There is a light show that accentuates the curves of the inner gorge’s walls. These lights are reasonably subtle and double as lighting so you can see where you are going.
Down the rabbit hole….
Once you get to the end of the walkway there are two doors with years 1969 and 1987 written above them – The original entry from the old baths closed in 1969 so this door is closed and locked, however, 1987 opens out to a narrow, dimly lit tunnel. When following the tunnel the temperature rises until finally reaching a dead end. Here is a warm natural spring so you can feel the thermal waters for yourself while reading the information panels. So no white rabbits or mad hatters down here…
When passing back through the altes Bad Pfäfers, there is a kiosk with seating outdoors, a cafe inside and, as mentioned earlier, a museum where the original thermal bathing rooms and a kitchen are displayed.
It is now possible to take a bus back or continue walking to other towns above the gorge.
Fascinating sculptures in the Bad Ragartz Exhibition
This open-air exhibition takes place in and around the town every 3 years and is considered to be the largest open-air sculpture display in Europe. The last exhibition (2021) showcased 83 artists from 16 countries.
It is free to view unless you want to take a guided tour. For me, the interactive sculptures were the best. I was able to add my head to a sculpture full of heads, walk up the stairs of a rusty metal structure and bounce on a beam that sunk partially underground. There are plenty of other pieces where kids can clamber over, through or climb on, however, some sculptures are NOT interactive, indicated with a polite do not touch sign. Also, what are those apes looking at??
The Bündner Herrschaft is the largest and best-known wine-growing region in Canton Graubunden. The region’s sunny location, frequent warm winds (föhn) and porous soil provide perfect conditions for grapes to thrive. First-class wines have been made here for centuries.
I visited this region in early July which seemed to be a perfect time. At this time of year, the vines are heavy with bright green leaves and small bunches of tiny grapes soak up the hot summer sun. Colourful roses are all around, and the meadows are full of wildflowers. Sounds like I am about to break into a song, but that is what it was like.
I decided to walk some of the Weinwanderweg (Wine walking trail) which passes through vineyards and villages, to learn about the process of making wine in this region. Clear information panels are available along the trail explaining the whole process from Spring to Winter; from planting the first vines to replacing the old ones. There were people working hard in the fields and the small tractors, specially designed to move between the vines, were busily doing their thing while I walked.
I found the whole experience including the views, smells and of course taste of the wine the perfect day trip for a break from the everyday. It felt a little bit like I had travelled deep into the vineyards of the Mediterranean, rather than a few kilometres off the main north/south motorway from Zürich to southern Switzerland.
Zürich – Maienfeld, changing at Sargans — 1 hour 5 mins
Zürich – Malans, changing at Landquart to bus 22 — 1 hour 14 mins
Lucerne- Maienfeld, 2 hours via Zürich HB.
Bus 22operates between Landquart and Maienfeld:
From Landquart train station arriving across the road from Malan’s train station in 5-7 mins. *From here is easy to take off into the countryside for a morning, afternoon or day of exploring.)
Lucerne – Maienfeld, takes approx. 1 hour 30 mins – 124 km, via Lake Zürich
Chur – Maienfeld, takes 15 mins, 20 km
Lanquart – Maienfeld, takes 5 min – 5 km
Walking from:
Landquart – Malans, 2km – 30 mins.
Landquart – Jenins, via Malans, 5 km – 1 hour
Maienfeld – Jenins, 2.7 km – 40 mins.
Maienfeld – Malans, via Jenins, 6 km – 1 hour 15 mins
BBQ spot just of the wine trail
This region offers some lovely restaurants, inns and wineries with terraces to take in the lovely scenery and fresh county air. There are also plenty of places available if you wish to prepare your own food or having a takeaway or picnic.
Find a Bench – These can be found almost anywhere. I found several alongside the walking tracks – often in the shade of trees or hedges and also dotted around the paths that run between the parcels of vines. Some even have the name of the vineyard carved on them.
Have a BBQ – Various BBQ spots with excellent facilities like grills, wood and tables can be found around this area (see map below).
Sit on a Restaurant Terrace – There are a lot of well-positioned terraces that face towards the great expanse of vines and Rhein Valley beyond. A couple I found in Jenins are close together – Alter Torkel which has an up-market style of food, and the Landgasthof zur Bündte. This hotel with restaurant has been in the same family for 5 generations (back to 1888).
Bad Ragaz – is a spa town across the Rhein in canton St. Gallen. This town straddles the impressive Tamina River which roars its way into the Tamina Gorge – there is a shaded walk alongside the Tamina river to the narrow gorge which is lit up to show off its impressive curves and cliffs. Bad Ragaz is also the place to take the Pizolbahnen (cable car) up to a popular walk – the 5 Lake Walk at the top of Pizol mountain.
Chur – The main town and main transport hub of Graubünden. Chur has a lovely enclosed old-town.
Fläsch – This is the most northern wine-growing town of the Bündner Herrschaft region. It has won the Wakker Prize 2010 for good town planning that preserved the orchards and vinyards within the towns boundries. Worth checking out because: There are 14 self-pressing viticulture companies in Fläsch. For more information go to their website.
My Walk Through The Vineyards – from Malans to Maienfeld
This area is spread out like a patchwork quilt on the gentle slopes above the Rhein plains. The north/south highway and railway line run directly alongside a straight section of the Rhein giving easy access to the area. The main towns are Landquart and Maienfeld with smaller towns like Malans also on the rail line. Buses connect the higher wine-growing villages and some small cable cars to train stations.
This was a decent 2-hour walk but it is just as easy to do smaller sections around the villages or try out many other trails that criss-cross the region.
Some impressions of the area from Malans to Jenins
The Village of Jenins
Jenins has narrow lanes with historical buildings, elegant mansions and old wooden houses clustering together, giving the village a cosy feel. Every now and the narrow streets and lanes lead to small squares with fountains. Grape vines seem to be growing everywhere; covering fences and crawling up houses as well as filling green spaces in and around the village.
According to Jenins’ website, this town has always had a policy of protecting its heritage, which includes the buildings, businesses and land, ensuring that modern buildings could not, for the most part, be built within the town, or onto the cultivated land around it – leaving the wineries in the area untouched for hundreds of years.
The locals seemed to support this leading to the avoidance of any building booms and also ensured that family-run business stayed within the families. The vineyards (around 44 hectares) are firmly in private hands, while the pasture areas belong to the municipality.
Alpine farming
The traditional Swiss method of using the high altitude meadows, is of great importance in Jenins: In summer the cows climb up to the 2,373 meter high summit of the Vilan in search of tasty grasses and herbs.
Contacting the winemakers in Jenins
These Jenins vineyards and cellars can be visits by appointment or have opening times. Another option is to check out the wine festivals – all information is on the websites. This is just a small example of what is available in the region.
Luzi and Ottilie Jenny-Willi Viticulture and self-pressing www.luzijenny.ch
Around 70 wine producers belong to the Graubünden Wine Association. The association has a presentation room attached to the Old Torkel Restaurant which sits above the vines on the edge of Jenins.
You can come here for tastings, information about the wines of the region and to book public guided tours of the vineyards.
Recent information on the Heidiland tourism website states: It is possible to do a 90-minute tour through the vines followed by a tasting, without reservation every Friday at 4.30 pm from April to October. Contact the House of Graubünden Wines, Jeninserstrasse 3, 7307 Jenins, Phone +41 (0)81 302 87 08, Email sekretariat@graubuendenwein.ch
History and Heidi
Maienfeld, 502m, the «third city on the Rhine», lies at the foot of the striking Falknis, on the east side of the Rhine valley. The fact that Maienfeld, with 2500 inhabitants, can call itself a city dates back to city rights granted in the 15th century. At that time, Maienfeld stood at the intersection of historic military and transit roads on the Rhine valley and Walensee route. The old town with its impressive mansions and Salenegg and Brandis Castles today rates as a cultural asset of national importance.
In addition to wine and the international horse races in, October, Maienfeld owes its fame to Heidi, the figure from the world-famous children’s story by Johanna Spyri, published in 1880/1881 and translated into over 50 languages. Most of the story is set in the hamlet of Oberrofels, directly above Maienfeld. Today a Heidi Path leads from Maienfeld into a reproduced Heidi village, where a small living museum has been opened in the original Heidi house. There is also a hike called the “Heidi Trail” that goes up to Heidi Alp at 1111m, then back to Maienfeld via Vadella – Jenins.
Lush green pastures, forest-covered slopes and craggy peaks surround the town of Schwyz. A trip up the Rotenflue cable car gives a great panorama of all this as well as the Alps, Vierwaldstättersee (Lake Lucerne) and Lauerezsee(Lake Lauer). All slowly come into view as you glide up to the mountain station at 1571 metres above sea level.
The cable car takes 15 minutes to climb from Rickenbach (neighbouring town of Schwyz) up to Rotenflue; the start of an idyllic natural landscape. From here it is possible to walk through nearby Moorland, meadows and forests or relax in the mountain inns, at BBQ spots or on panorama benches.
Grill spots can be found within easy walking distance of the top station. Four grill spots close to the mountain station are:
Kreuz – an official Swiss Family BBQ spot. 300m south of the cable car
Heublätz – 200m below the Restaurant Gipfelstubli
Gruebi/Chänzeli – an official Swiss Family BBQ spot 800m from cable car, direction Holzegg
Holzweid
Ordering a Picnic Basket (Picnic Korb)
In summer, it is possible to pick up a picnic basket and seat cover from the Gipfelstubli restaurant, situated at the top Rotenflue cable car station. There are currently (July 2021) three variants:
The Classic ( Klassische) incl. mineral water, home made ice tea
The Festive (Festliche) incl. Prosecco
The Love Affair… (direct translation from Die Liebelei) incl. Champagne
All offer food such as fresh fruit, dried fruit, bread, mineral water, cheese and sausages. (extras like vegetables, pasta salad and dessert for The Festive & The Love Affair). Also included are cups, picnic dishes and cutlery.
This walk is also possible as a winter walk and withsnowshoes – and from both directions. We did this one recently (Dec. 2021) from Ibergeregg. It was holiday time so reasonably busy. This was down to the perfect skiing conditions, perfect weather and was during the Christmas holidays. Was a wonderful experience with wonderful views and very entertaining watching the sledders flying past. This path also crosses some ski pistes.
The region between Ibergeregg, Holzegg and Rotenflue offers plenty of well-signposted Snowshoe trails and various skiing possibilities including a ski safari for the adventurous. It is 14 km and takes about 3 hours. Contact info@hoch-ybrig.ch for more details.
Circular Walk with lookout points, Restaurant Terraces and a BBQ spot
Mythen Region Transport Links – up to Rotenflue
Train — Bus — Rotenflue Cable Car
Train to Schwyz (offering some wonderful scenery along the way)
From Zürich – 1 hr, incl. change at Zug or Arth Goldau. Onward to Locarno.
From Lucerne – 40-50 mins; From Zug – 30 mins
Bus from Schwyz train station to Rotenflue Cable Car – summer and autumn only
Bus Nr. 503 – operates regularly in both directions, stopping at Schwyz town centre. Journey time: 12-16 mins.
Bus Nr. 505 – operates regularly in both directions, stopping at Schwyz town centre. Journey time: 9-11 mins.
Rotenflue Cable Car
Open: 8th May – 2nd July daily from 9am – 5pm; 3rd July – 31st Oct. daily from 8.30am – 5.30pm; 1st November – beginning ski season daily from 9am – 4.3 pm. (dates for 2021). For up-to-date information go here.
There are thousands of places to grill in Switzerland, which guarantees that you will stumble across one on walks or hikes around the country. However, sometimes it can help to be pointed in the right direction. I know from experience that it can be frustrating to find the perfect BBQ spot but not have the right equipment – nothing to put the meat patties, skewer, or squeaky cheese on, for example.
For this reason, I would recommend checking out websites like schweizerfeuerstellen.ch. Schweizer Familie is a long-running Swiss magazine. They have a website dedicated to advising on grill spots all over the country. It is in German but simple to use – add the name of the area you wish to visit, see pictures, a 360-degree video, facilities and a map.
Another option is checking out the local tourism websites such aslucerne.ch. This link includes a map view, of over 150 BBQ sites in central Switzerland.
These websites also give you an idea of how prepared you need to be, as some grills have everything except the food & cutlery, whereas others are just firepits. Sometimes things like a grill, wood, benches, tables and shade are available, other times just a circle of stones… In both circumstances, however, you will often find a whittled-down stick, ready to disinfect in the fire then use to stab your sausage or marshmallows.
waldbrandgefahr.ch is a great website to find out at a glance what is happening around the country regarding up-to-date restrictions on grilling in the open with a colour-coded map and warning levels.
Over the years we have found some really nice places to grill. Below are some I consider to be extra special – however, I am still looking and will post more as I come across them.
AppenzellInnerrhoden
Sämtisersee from Hoher Kasten
Sämtisersee – This location can only be reached by foot. There are lovely walks from the top of Hoher Kasten cable car, down to the alpine lake, then back across to the cable car station at Brülisau. Wood is sometimes available and there should be a grill.
Simple BBQ grill
Lake Sämtisersee – looking towards Fählensee
Wood pile for BBQ
We recently hiked from the top of the cable car, down to the two lakes in the valley (July 2023). The BBQ is in a prime position on the lake and is also a great place for picnicking and swimming. It is close to the forested area offering a bit of shade. Another option for food and drink is the Mountain Guest House Plattenbödeli just up from the lake.
Reason to stop here: To sit and eat right beside this idyllic alpine lake nestled in a mountainous landscape.
How to get there:By Car:From Zürich, approx. 1 hr 20 mins (via A1 around Winterthur). From Appenzell, 10 mins. By Train: From Zürich, 2 hrs with 2 changes. From Appenzell, 15 mins with 1 change. Good to know: This is also a great place to picnic & there is a restaurant close by called Plattenbödeli if the firepit doesn’t work out.
It won’t take long to find several grilling spots when walking from the town of Weesen, along the northern side of Walensee (Lake Walen) – some with grills, others without.
Reason to stop here: We have used the one at Betlis several times. It offers great facilities (including toilets) and a chance to walk to the impressive Seerenbach waterfalls in one direction, and some smaller, shaded firepits, a port area for boat trips and a small swimming beach in the other direction (the path in the pictures leads to the second option).
Above Walensee – Amden
The small town of Amden is a good starting point for many excursions high in the meadows and hills above Walensee. It is quintessential Switzerland – the area is even called Heidiland. You will see traditional farms, goats with bells, meadows full of wildflowers, Beizlis and mountain inns.
The Mattstock chair lift in the centre of Amden is really the only way of getting up to higher hiking tracks (apart from hiking). We tried to drive up to the top cable car station – the roads were good to a point then they narrowed and we found it very difficult to find a public road and there were no places to park – I don’t think we were supposed to go there by car… So, I recommend using the chair lift. (It wasn’t operating during our visit).
There are also plenty of walks from Amden with BBQ spots. We used two Swiss Family BBQs in great locations; Feuerstelle Rombach is a short walk up behind the village and Girengärtli is a hike towards the cliffs.
Reason to stop here: High up above the lake within a forest. Quiet area with a viewing platform and plenty of facilities. Is also a good place to stop when walking further or simply as a destination.
Getting There
By Car: Takes 1 hour (66 km)
By Train & Bus: Zürich to Weesen (lakeside) – 1 hour, incl. a change at Ziegelbrücke for a 7 min. bus trip. Weesen to Amden(mountain) is a further 10/15 mins. by bus.
Klöntalersee is like a huge turquoise magnet. Its sheer beauty brings the crowds, especially at the weekend.
The alternative is this beautiful lake that we visited off-season recently – Obersee. This is also stunning and it has a restaurant right on the lakeshore. It can be more difficult to reach as Swiss public transport does not come to this lake.
The road is in good condition if a little narrow – meaning a slow drive. There are plenty of passing lanes if you meet someone coming the other way & there are biking trails starting at the valley.
Both Obersee and Klöntalersee don’t currently have any grilling placesorBBQs with facilities but there are firepits dotted around. You will need to bring your own grill, forage for firewood and have a swiss army knife for carving sticks – although, there is a chance you will find some lying around. Trees surround these lovely lakes so there is plenty of firewood to be found. – remember your matches!
Good to Know: There are 2 camping grounds at Klöntalersee and metered parking near Camping Güntlenau on the east side of the lake. This camping ground also has BBQ facilities available.
Reason to stop here:By using the firepits, you should avoid the crowds. These places are such naturally beautiful spots that it seems a shame to see it all from the distance of a terrace when you can have a front seat view, sitting on a rock or a log.
Getting To Obersee & Klöntalersee:
Oberseeby Car:from Näfels, 17 mins – 8 km; from Zürich, 1 hour – 70 km. By Public Transport: no connection to Obersee. Klöntalersee by Car: from Glarus, 16 mins – 10 km; By Public Transport: from Glarus by bus, 18 mins to the east of the lake.
In the forests, high up above Lake Lucerne there are countless BBQ spots – my discoveries are around the small town of Seelisberg, on the west side of the lake in Canton Uri.
Marienhöhe can be found south of Seelisberg and has two grills offering great facilities including tables, benches, wood and a shelter.
Reason to stop here: The views of Lake Lucerne and the surrounding mountains, facilities and plenty of shade.
Getting There: The best way is to by boat on Lake Lucerne to Treib, then take the funicular up to Seelisberg. From here you can walk 20 minutes to Seelisberg, Oberdorf, then from the Volg mini-market go either south to the Marienhöhe – a nice walk through the forest, or turn off at Kapelle Maria Sonnenberg and go up the zig-zag trail to Hoch Flue, a much more challenging climb. If you want to visit Lake Seeli, then do the walk, take the bus from Seelisberg (funicular) to bus stop Seeli (dep. hourly – takes 4 mins).
From Zugerberg funicular, there is a signpost covered in yellow signs pointing the way to loads of different walking possibilities. One particular grill spot is great for shade and views – Brand Feuerstelle. This is situated on the edge of a forest, overlooking a meadow to the mountains in the distance. They have huge tables and benches, viewing seating, wooden sculptures for children, and good BBQ facilities.
Reason to stop here: Brand Feuerstelle and others in this area offer spacious areas on the edge of the forest giving you a chance to spread out and find your own space. The kids play areas are also spread out, not simply next to the BBQ spots and, as mentioned earlier, they have good BBQ facilities.
Getting There: From the funicular top station turn right and follow the signs to Spielplatz Schattwaldi (forest adventure playground, also with grilling possibilities), then Feuerstelle (grilling place) and Aussichtspunkt (lookout point); about 20-30 minutes walk altogether.
Zürich – alongside the Rhein
Eglisau
Eglisau is directly north of Zürich city and on the Rhein. This forested part of the Rhein has a pretty town, offering relaxing walks through a nature-protected area and vineyards. It is not possible to set up your own firepit but there are several good ones to choose from on both sides of the Rhein.
Reason to stop here: This is a very peaceful part of the Rhine. Most of the BBQ spots offer a grill and seating, along with forests and boulders to play around and the Rhein to paddle in. From the town of Eglisau it is possible to go for a swim or on a boat trip that goes to the very impressive Rhine Falls. There are also some good launching sites for paddle boats.
Getting There:By Car: From Zürich city – approx. 30 minutes (26 km). By Public Transport:From Zürich HB – S9 train, direction Schaffhausen takes 32 mins (as of June 2021).
Nearly every place in Switzerland boasts stunning views, so I may have missed a few 100 ideas from my list. However, these are some of my personal favourites so far. They are idyllic spots with plenty of room for exploring. These places are peaceful and away from the crowds of tourists. Hoher Kasten however, is best visited during the week as it’s a popular spot for the Swiss.
I will continue to explore with my family and post a Part 2 some time soon…
1)Hoher Kasten, Appenzell
These views are from the Hoher Kasten cable car and viewing platforms at the top. Hiking trails lead down to nearby lakes, forests and valleys.
How to get there:
Train/Bus: Appenzell, to Brülisau-Hoher Kasten: Train to Weissbad, then bus to cable car station at Brülisau – 16 mins.
By Car: Appenzell to Hoher Kasten lower station: 10 mins – 6 km
What to do here: Visit the revolving restaurant, hike back down or doa themed trail. Or simply enjoy the views from the viewing terraces and platforms.
2)Ftan; looking across the valley to Tarasp castle, Graubünden
The little village of Ftan is across the deep lower Engadin Valley. This village and its surrounding countryside offers unspoilt views of the impressive Tarasp Castle.
How to get there:
By Train:from Scuol, the largest town in the Lower Engadine valley, it takes 22 mins; from Landquart, 2 hrs 5 mins, with a change in Scuol.
By Car: From Landquart: Route 28, takes approx. 1 hr 30 – 71 km.
What to do around here: You can register for a guided tour of Tarasp Castle on their website. as well as plenty of hiking & biking, scenic trains trips, thermal baths at Scuol and skiing in winter.
Seelisberg is a small town sitting on a shelf above lake Lucerne. It is reachable by a combination of boat and funicular or from Lucerne, by road.
There is a natural mountain lake called Lake Seeli which offers swimming possibilities and camping (no vehicles of any kind are allowed on the campsite).It is when you walk away from this town and lake that you will reach the stunning viewpoints shown in this picture. There are also benches, loungers and grill spots if you feel like sticking around for a bit.
I did a circular hike from the Seelisee bus stop (Seeli) to the lake and beyond, then through the town, upwards to the other side of the main road until reaching a sheer cliff… from here I walked alongside the cliff, then turned back down to the bus stop, (almost missing the hourly bus). For more details of this walk, go to my Uri & Lake Lucerne page.
How to get there:
By boat to Treib, then funicular: seesbb.ch
Train/Bus: Takes approx. 1 hour with change from train to a bus in Stans.
By Car: From Lucerne, take the A2 for 31 km to Seeli parking (30 mins).
What to do here: swim, have a picnic or grill, hike, and camp (in the official camping site by the lake).
The photos are from the tiny town of Gandria on the side of Lake Lugano. The view is of the eastern arm of the lake, looking over the border into Italy. With the palm trees and bright blue sky, you could already imagine being in Italy.
How to get there:
By boat: From Lugano, takes 25-45 mins (for boat trips see my Canton Ticino site).
By Car: From Lugano: 15 mins, 5 km
What to do here: See my page on Canton Ticino for more on Gandria
There are lovely viewpoints at many places along the Rhein – from Germany to the source, Lai de Tuma, in canton Graubünden– considered the starting point. I have walked alongside and floated on the Rhein many times but this section, where the little medieval town of Eglisau sits on the banks, is one of my favourites. The bridge into Eglisau is a great viewpoint for seeing the lush green hills on either side. The town itself has well preserved historic buildings and a park area along the Rhein. From here there are trails through the forests giving more stunning views of the river on one side and, now and then, vineyards on the other. But best of all – it is off the normal tourist route.
How to get there:
By Train: From Winterthur: Takes 33 mins with 1 change. See sbb.ch.
By Car: From Winterthur: Takes 28 mins, 21 km
What to do here:
Walks up in the hills or down by the river.
Grilling by the river (only in allocated spots as this is a protected area)
Swimming in the Rhein at Eglisau or,
Boat trips on the Rhein
6) Wissifluh Cable car & Panorama Bench, Vitznau
From Wissifluh Gondola looking down on Vitznau campsite
Panorama Bench
From the lakeside town of Vitznau, canton Lucerne, it is possible to walk or drive to 2 gondolas. The bottom stations are next to each other, each with car parking.
The Wissifluhgondola is self-service. Basically, you will need to order a gondola and a maximum of 4 people can fit inside.
There are clear instructions in German and English explaining, in steps, what to do to “call” the gondola down and how to get moving once you are inside… It can be a bit disconcerting but, once you start seeing the views and have alighted at the top (after the top station’s little door slides open) you will soon stop shaking. It is a peaceful area with farms and meadows, and of course, the famous Panorama Bench to distract you from thinking about your trip back down.
How to get there: Train or boat from Lucerne: See sbb.ch for the timetable options. Each option takes about 1 hour. Driving: From Lucerne city centre: 35-45 mins – 26 km.
What to do here: Important points: 1. You pay on arrival at the top station. 2. Often these farm restaurants only take cash.
7) Seealpsee, AppenzellInnerrhoden
Seealpsee with the peak of Säntis in the middle distance
There is only one way to reach this lake – hike. The walking trail from Wasserauen to here is a great opportunity to experience the dramatic natural environment of the Alpstein Massif. See my Appenzell page for more information about the hike to Seealpsee and other options around this region.
Getting There:
By Train: Appenzell town to Wasserauen – regular departure. Travel Time: 13 mins.
By Car: Appenzell to Wasserauen – 11 mins drive – 7 km. Zürich to Wasserauen – 1.15 hrs – 100 km
What to do here:
Hiking, cable car rides,visiting the Mountain Inns on the lake and further above and for the experienced hiker/climber attempt to hike up Säntis.
