Hiking the Gemmipass – A Must-Do Swiss Classic

Daubensee (2207m). Photo by A.Leggett

The Gemmi is a historical crossing of the northern Alpine chain. This north/south crossing – between Kandersteg and Leukerbad, was once a significant route used by the Celts, Romans, and the Alemanni (Germanic tribes). For hundreds of years, it was also a crossing point for nobility, writers and artists alike. Attractions such as its incredible wild beauty, the thermal baths in Leukerbad, and its convenience as a crossing all played parts in its popularity.

Today it is considered to be the “Klassiker der Schweizer Wanderklassiker,” which translates as the classic of the Swiss hiking classics.

The Landscape

The hiking path, popular with the Swiss, passes through an amazing natural environment – from boulder-strewn landscapes, past alpine lakes & rugged cliffs rising abruptly upwards, to soft meadows with ancient trees and the most incredible sweeping views to look at every step of the way.

Getting There

Trains frequently run through the Rhône Valley and are a great way to start your journey up into the mountains, both north and south.

Train & Bus:

Trains run from the main Rhône Valley towns – Sion, Sierre, Visp and Leuk, and from the north – Interlaken & Spiez, to Leuk (731m).

Buses connect at Leuk train station(731m) to Leukerbad(1,411m) – (no train service for this route).

The road up to Leukerbad is steep with numerous switchbacks – approx. 30 mins. From here you can walk for 11 mins or take a connecting bus (see sbb.ch for all train and bus timetables)


The Hike – Leukerbad Cable Car (Valais) to Kandersteg, Sunnbüel Cable Car (Bernese Oberland)


Distance:

8.5 km (+ 2 km diversion for Arven Forest circular walk)


Best Time of Year:

June – Oct (although this pass can also be visited in winter for winter walking and sports)


Duration:

2.5 hrs (3-3.5 hrs incl. circular walk through Arven Forest)


Difficulty:

Moderate, reasonable stamina (and good hiking boots).


Descent/Ascent:

475 m/71m


Status of Pass & Gondolas:

Leukerbad Tourism Website – up-to-date info.

Sunnbüel Cable Car & Gemmi Cable Car Warning: the Sunnbüel cable car mountain station currently (08/21) only accepts cash.


A Gemmi Pass hiking map can be found at the bottom of this page.

Gemmi Trail

Don’t get the Gemmi Pass hike confused with the Gemmi Trail. The Trail is a difficult ascent from Leukerbad up to the top of the Gemmi cable car. It is extremely challenging (900 metres in 2 hours) but would also be a great achievement. You would be following in the footsteps of some famous names – Goethe, Mark Twain, Lenin and Picasso (according to the Leukerbad Tourism site).


Gemmi Pass Hike



I did this walk a few years ago – it is one I had wanted to do for a while and was well worth the wait. The walk starts at the top of the thrilling Leukerbad cable car (can be done from either direction). From here, you follow the signposts pointing towards Kandersteg. The sign indicates that the hike takes 4 hours, however, that is only if you decide not to take the Sunnbüel cable car & bus at the end of this walk. (I confirmed this with some seasoned walkers).



We soon came across Daubensee which lies at 2207m. Once reaching this impressive lake, you can see the path stretching off into the distance, giving an idea of what is coming up. The main path is on the right-hand side of the lake which was a bit of a relief to me as the other path, which you can also do, looked pretty challenging.

After the lake, you start to go downhill through rocky terrain, past loads of weather-beaten boulders. If you use your imagination, they start looking like strange creatures from another world.


After about 30 minutes you can see the Schwarenbach restaurant in the distance. you can stop here for a drink or snack and, of course, a toilet break. The hiking trail goes between the tables on the terrace and past a small kiosk which sells postcards and, sometimes, sun hats etc. – very civilised.



From this point, the views change with most of the rocks and boulders now covered with plants and trees.



It is possible to do a small diversion into the Arven Forest (Arvenwald) after about 6 km into the walk. The diversion is clearly marked as a Rundweg (circular path) which will bring you back on the trail to Sunnbüel. Make sure to follow the yellow signposts and diamonds that show the way. This will also take you past two small lakes called Arvenseeli – however, these are often dried up in summer.



After the forest, there are several ascents. At this point, it’s pretty satisfying to look back to see how far you have come.



When arriving at the very welcoming Bergrestaurant Sunnbüel you can see views of the Kandersteg region including the impressive Gasterntal (Gastern Valley which I am visiting and will be writing about soon). The cable car is here and it leaves every half hour but, as with a lot of these cable cars, it goes more often during busy times.

There is also the option to walk down rather than take the cable car although I haven’t done this myself. Note: In the past, the Sunnbüel cable car wouldn’t accept credit cards, only cash.

The bus from the valley to Kandersteg (March 2024) leaves every hour (until 18:56 in summer) see sbb.ch for up-to-date information.


Where to find Paradise in Central Switzerland


From Schwyz up the Rotenflue Cable Car


updated December 2021

Schwyz to Rotenflue summit

Lush green pastures, forest-covered slopes and craggy peaks surround the town of Schwyz. A trip up the Rotenflue cable car gives a great panorama of all this as well as the Alps, Vierwaldstättersee (Lake Lucerne) and Lauerezsee (Lake Lauer). All slowly come into view as you glide up to the mountain station at 1571 metres above sea level.

The cable car takes 15 minutes to climb from Rickenbach (neighbouring town of Schwyz) up to Rotenflue; the start of an idyllic natural landscape. From here it is possible to walk through nearby Moorland, meadows and forests or relax in the mountain inns, at BBQ spots or on panorama benches.


Suggestions of What to do and where to go . . .

Detailed signposts make it easy to find your way

Eating & Relaxing

Summer and Spring

Nearby Grill Spots

Grill spots can be found within easy walking distance of the top station. Four grill spots close to the mountain station are:

  • Kreuz – an official Swiss Family BBQ spot. 300m south of the cable car
  • Heublätz – 200m below the Restaurant Gipfelstubli
  • Gruebi/Chänzeli – an official Swiss Family BBQ spot 800m from cable car, direction Holzegg
  • Holzweid

Ordering a Picnic Basket (Picnic Korb)

In summer, it is possible to pick up a picnic basket and seat cover from the Gipfelstubli restaurant, situated at the top Rotenflue cable car station. There are currently (July 2021) three variants:

  1. The Classic ( Klassische) incl. mineral water, home made ice tea
  2. The Festive (Festliche) incl. Prosecco
  3. The Love Affair… (direct translation from Die Liebelei) incl. Champagne

All offer food such as fresh fruit, dried fruit, bread, mineral water, cheese and sausages. (extras like vegetables, pasta salad and dessert for The Festive & The Love Affair). Also included are cups, picnic dishes and cutlery.


All Year

Berggasthäuse (Mountain Inns)

  • Restaurant Gifelstubli
  • Burggasthaus Rotenfluh
  • Burggasthaus Holzegg
  • Alp Zwäcken Wirtschaft & Käserei (mountain inn & cheese diary)
  • and finally, not nearby, Grosser Mythen Restaurant, right on the peak at 1,898m (no accommodation and cash only).

Photo: Grosser Mythen Restaurant at the top of Grosser Mythen thanks to Stephan Aebi on Unsplash for taking this photo!



hiking & Winter Activities – easy and challenging

Nature Protection Area Ibergeregg

What kind of hikes are available:

  • Circular hikes
  • Combination hikes (german) – Summer – Public transport/hike/food; Winter – snowshoe hike with map/fondue meal at Hotel Passhöhe/snowshoe hire.
  • Mountain climbing up Mythen on the Mythenweg – Summer/Autumn
  • Moorland hiking in Ibergeregg (see one option below)
  • No real purpose – just follow the yellow signs (the ones with white/red/white at the point are more challenging)
  • Winter hiking and snow shoe trails (see below)

A Popular Combination HikeAny time of year

This walk is also possible as a winter walk and with snowshoes – and from both directions. We did this one recently (Dec. 2021) from Ibergeregg. It was holiday time so reasonably busy. This was down to the perfect skiing conditions, perfect weather and was during the Christmas holidays. Was a wonderful experience with wonderful views and very entertaining watching the sledders flying past. This path also crosses some ski pistes.

The region between Ibergeregg, Holzegg and Rotenflue offers plenty of well-signposted Snowshoe trails and various skiing possibilities including a ski safari for the adventurous. It is 14 km and takes about 3 hours. Contact info@hoch-ybrig.ch for more details.


Circular Walk with lookout points, Restaurant Terraces and a BBQ spot


Mythen Region Transport Links – up to Rotenflue

Train — Bus — Rotenflue Cable Car

Train to Schwyz (offering some wonderful scenery along the way)

From Zürich – 1 hr, incl. change at Zug or Arth Goldau. Onward to Locarno.

From Lucerne – 40-50 mins; From Zug – 30 mins


Bus from Schwyz train station to Rotenflue Cable Car – summer and autumn only

Bus Nr. 503 – operates regularly in both directions, stopping at Schwyz town centre. Journey time: 12-16 mins.

Bus Nr. 505 – operates regularly in both directions, stopping at Schwyz town centre. Journey time: 9-11 mins.


Rotenflue Cable Car

Open: 8th May – 2nd July daily from 9am – 5pm; 3rd July – 31st Oct. daily from 8.30am – 5.30pm; 1st November – beginning ski season daily from 9am – 4.3 pm. (dates for 2021). For up-to-date information go here.