The Traditional Swiss Villages That Keep it Local

Scudellate in the Muggio Valley © Stefano Ember | Dreamstime.com

You often hear about traditional craftmanship and old manual skills dying out or being replaced by modern practices. Luckily Switzerland hasn’t fully adopted a modern way of life. In fact, many of the small villages, towns and farms in Switzerland not only continue to use the old traditions, but you will find the local communities working hard to promote these traditions and skills through things like workshops, museums and tourism to ensure the knowledge is kept well and truly alive.

From Appenzell in the west to Ticino and Valais in the south, here are some places worth visiting for an authentic Swiss experience.



AppenzellerlandLocal crafts and farming traditions

This whole region oozes tradition and sustainability with local produce, local crafts and traditional practices.

. Photo by Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives

A special tradition that is part of the lives of the people here is the annual processions of cattle, that move between the villages and the local pastures.

Each person, cow, goat and bell has its part to play. The white goats, guided by children, lead the way. Next in line are the cows, their huge bells and the herdsmen. Finally, the horse and cart carrying supplies are found at the end. There is music, bell chimes, colour and tradition all woven into each procession.

See my Appenzell page for more details and below for the Urnäsch village traditional farmers market that coincides with the processions.


Villages and their traditions

Photo by Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives

Many villages spread around the rolling hills of canton Appenzell are highly self-reliant, with the local farmers, craftspeople and artisans preserving and using the old techniques and traditional way of life. This makes farming a tough, very physical job on the steep hilly farms, however, the communities don’t just work hard together, they also celebrate hard together.


Urnäsch – Traditions and Celebrations

Traditional dress of the Urnäsch Silvesterchlaus. A New Years’ celebration that takes place on 13th January each year. Photo 179456588 © Duchesseart | Dreamstime.com

Urnäsch Silvesterchlausen

Silvesterchlausen is a special New Years Celebration that goes back centuries. It takes place on the 13th of January each year throughout the region and starts early in the morning, going through until midnight. Locals dress up as characters called ‘Silvesterchläuse Mummers’. The Urnäsch Mummers wear extremely ornate headgear (shown above). According to the Appenzell Tourism Website, these are made by hand over “hundreds of hours”.

Workshops are popular with the locals. In Urnäsch it is possible to:

  • Make Lanterns from sheets of iron by welding and flame cutting
  • Hand-craft the wooden facades of houses from local trees – hand tools are used for the complete process.
  • Learn antique furniture techniques
  • Learn how to make home-made Gin and design labels
  • Make Woodwork crafts

Many of these crafts are sold at markets in the small villages throughout the year. See this link for a calendar showing the dates and locations here.


Urnäsch Farmers Market (Bauernmarkt)

Urnäsch Village
Barbara Steinemann, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Around mid-September each year, the farmers’ market, centrally located at Kronenplatz in Urnäsch offers more than 50 stalls full of local produce from farming families.

There are food stalls, entertainment, and pig races and traditional music played during the day.

In the morning, the alpine descents arrive in the village of Urnäsch, with the herdsmen moving through the village between about 9 a.m. and 1 p.m.

A shuttle bus runs from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. to the outdoor parking spaces on Appenzellerstrasse and at the Furt work station.


The Cheese Dairy in Stein

The local cheese

Traditional craftsmanship and practices are used in many of the small cheese dairies in Appenzell.

Cheese-making can be experienced at the small and modern Appenzell Schaukäserei (show cheese dairy) – found deep in the green rolling hills of Appenzell Ausserrhoden, in a small village called Stein – A link to their new website is here. The village of Stein is known as the pearl of Appenzellerland with houses mostly from the 18th century in the centre.

This is a small exhibition, redesigned to showcase the traditions and processes used for making the different types of cheese from this area.

They offer:

  • Self-guided tours with animated film
  • cheese tasting & shop
  • A look at the living traditions and customes in Appenzell Ausserrhoden
  • A terrace to watch part of the cheese-making process
  • Restaurant
  • Next door: Appenzeller Folklore Museum to experience the herdsmen’s culture

Farmers from the region bring fresh and warm milk to one of the 50 authorized cheese dairies. Around 700 years of artisan traditions go into the making of Appenzeller® cheese.

It is possible to walk through the countryside from the cheese dairy. There is a signpost by the carpark and from there it is possible to wander around the hills and small farms (sometimes directly past the front door).

There are plenty of yellow benches found along the paths and roads. The views include:

  • the Alpstein mountains
  • Lake Constance
  • villages ( Stein is in this photo)
  • forests
  • traditional farmhouses
  • and, of course, cheese dairies


Getting to Urnäsch and Stein

To Schaukäserei in Stein:

Public Transport: Train/Bus: From St. Gallen – 18/20 minutes. Car: From Appenzell – 15 minutes; From St. Gallen – 15 mins.

To Urnäsch:

Public Transport: : Train: From St. Gallen, changing at Herisau – 30-40 mins, half-hourly; From Appenzell – 16 mins. Car: From Appenzell – 15 mins; From St. Gallen – approx. 30 mins.

Further Information

Appenzell Schaukäserei (cheese dairy):

Open 364 days from 9am – 5pm. Cheese-making daily until 3pm.




Zinal and the Val d’Anniviers

The story of the Zinal and Ayer hamlets in Val d’Anniviers

The area around the small village of Zinal (1670 m) was once occupied by small hamlets that were known as village-mayen – meaning they were only occupied seasonally. As far back as the 16th century, the locals would move from the mountains to the Rhône valley several times a year travelling either on foot or with carts pulled by mules. These people must have been pretty tough and rugged individuals!

In early spring they would go to Sierre to do work in the vineyards and gardens, going back in autumn to harvest the grapes.

In summer they would travel back up to the hamlets to tend to the livestock, bringing them up to the high altitude pastures and preparing hay then in Winter they would make their way back down with the livestock to Ayer to Zinal, feeding the animals the hay, cut in summer.

2018_Chandolin_16_©Valais Wallis Promotion – Alban Mathieu.jpg

My guess is – at this stage, they would then hide away in the quiet valley and wrap up warm until spring. If they had snow like this who could blame them…

This lifestyle changed with the coming of tourists in the 19th Century, attracted by the natural environment and the staggering peaks of the Imperial Crown (five peaks over 4,000 m). At this time a couple of large hotels were built to accommodate the growing numbers of tourists.


These days it is possible to hike up to the original pastures and visit the traditional farm buildings that have been preserved to showcase the historical stories of this area.

Within the villages, many of the original farmhouses, community buildings and granaries have also been lovingly restored and are being re-used by the community and for tourism.


Héren cows

2017_Desalpe_Ayer_9_©Valais Wallis Promotion – Alban Mathieu.jpg

Héren cattle were part of the traditional way of life for the village-mayen people. They have certain characteristics that link them back to the wild auroch cattle that used to roam free throughout the European forests and grasslands. Their name originates from the Val d’Hérens region, west of Val d’Anniviers but they are also called fighting cows due to the fact that they designate the herd leader by fighting and locking horns. This habit has now become a spectator sport in the mountains (it is rare for the cows to become injured). More information can be found here.


Locally sourced Wine and food

The Désalpe practice of bringing the livestock up to the alpine pastures in summer and down in winter is also a celebration (as with Appenzell), by processions through the towns which include bringing down the cheese. The cows and sheep are lovingly decorated with flowers. Spectators line the streets and market stalls sell local produce.

Raclette Cheese

I encountered this ‘smelly cheese’ when we first moved to Switzerland in December 2004, or should I say, my nose first encountered it … If you have been to a Swiss Christmas market you should know what I mean.

This strong smell is from the traditional Raclette dish. The Christmas or winter markets always have a few Raclette stalls with special contraptions that melts the top layer of large chunks of cheese. This melted part is scraped off then spread over small potatoes. Some spices are sprinkled on and some mini pickles added and then the cardboard plate is handed out to the eager punters – often along with a glass of Gluhwein (mulled wine).

At first, I would give these stalls a wide berth but after tasting this cheese and getting used to the smell, I would also be one of the eager punters balancing my cheesy potato on a cardboard plate, trying to find a place to stand before burning my hand on my Gluhwein.

Raclette originates from the Valais (Wallis) region and is said to be over 400 years old. In 1812, there was mention of it as a tradition in the Val D’Anniviers region (home to Zinal. Ayer and Grimentz villages) – where sumptuous feasts would begin and close with roasted cheese (“fromage rôti”). This information is from ttmsa.ch which has a section dedicated to Raclette


Local Products found in Valais

There are plenty of ways to enjoy the local food and wine from the region. You can:

  • Make your own in a bread-making barn in Grimentz or
  • Buy the local AOP Rye bread
  • Do a guided tour of the Rhône valley winery
  • Visit the wine cellars – for a wine tasting experience – some are open for visits all year round (Good for a break from skiing).
  • Try a Fondue picnic. The Rando Fondue kit can be picked up from the villages of Chandolin, St-Luc, Zinal, Ayer or Grimentz.finding-the-charming-village-of-grimentz-and-the-val-danniviers-formidable-mountain-roads


Visiting the area

By Bus: Sierre – Ayers/Zinal, changing at Vissoie, approx. 45/60 mins Car: Sierre – Zinal approx. 40 mins. See sbb.ch for up-to-date info.



While in the region: In canton Valais there are several attractive villages that are car free with amazing sights and surroundings. I have listed them below.

  • Zermatt – Matterhorn & skiing
  • Saas-Fee – Hiking Paradise & skiing
  • Riederalp – Aletsch Arena & skiing
  • Bettmeralp – Aletsch Arena & skiing
  • Blatten-Belalp – Suspension Bridge & skiing


Ticino – Scudellate – the revival of a mountain hamlet – Albergo Diffuso

Muggio Valley

Valle di Muggio – Turro-Copyright Ticino Turismo – Foto Nicola Demaldi

The traditional manufacturing processes and culinary history of the local food are important to the small towns found in this very remote valley of Ticino.

It is easy to visit this valley without your car. With the opening of the Gotthard Base Tunnel in December 2020, it is now a lot quicker to travel from northern Switzerland to the Muggio Valley by train and bus.

It takes around 3 hours 30 mins from Zürich main station by train & bus, to arrive in the small village of Scudellate at the far end of the valley. Admittedly you will need to make 4 changes to do this… To get to the towns of Muggio & Cabbio – considered two of the most attractive villages in Switzerland – it is 3 hours and 3 changes.

The Muggio Valley offers:

  • The 700 year old Bruzella mill (between Bruzella and Cabbio) is still in operation. This mill has an old craft workshop, produces polenta and uses rare red maize native to Ticino.
  • The village of Muggio has buildings made of local stone and Cabbio has lovely historical fountains.
  • Muggio has views of the terraced slopes across the valley.

Scudellate

The village of Scudellate on Muggio valley, Switzerland
© Stefano Ember | Dreamstime.com

At the end of Muggio valley lies the small village of Scudellate – with only 20 inhabitants.

A special project to preserve this village has been made possible because of the vision and work of a local man called Oscar Piffaretti.

The project opens up the well-preserved and remote village of Scudellate, allowing tourists to experience the living traditions and local produce. The project is called Albergo Diffuso which translates as a scattered hotel and has been funded by, amongst other organisations, Swiss Mountain Aid. Additionally, there is another village in Ticino that has been transformed into an Albergo Diffuso, called Corippo in the Verzasca Valley.

The Scudellate village will offer:

  • Refurbished buildings including: – The pretty Osteria Manciana which is a mini-hotel with dining rooms, the old schoolhouse has also been converted to accommodation and the Foresteria B&B with one other building being added on the Alpe Caviano.
  • A shop will be added to the Osteria selling local produce
  • Events will be offered such as cooking courses, wine tasting, and cultural excursions.

The refurbishments and building is being done in stages (21/22/23). For more information go here.


Getting There

Public Transport from Zürich:

EC train: (Eurocity) ZürichLugano; S-Train LuganoMendrisio; Postbus MendrisioMorbio; Postbus MorbioCabbio. This connection takes 3 hours. Note: There are also other connections – see sbb.ch.


Public Transport from Locarno:

Locarno Mendrisio 45-55 mins then postbus as above.


Driving from Zürich:

From central ZürichScudellate approx. 3 hrs 30 mins, via Gotthard Tunnel (can be much longer as the Gotthard Tunnel is notorious for traffic jams).


Driving from Locarno:

LocarnoMuggio approx. 1 hour 10 mins




Finding The Charming Village of Grimentz and the Val d’Anniviers’ Formidable Mountain Roads

Grimentz and the Val d’Anniviers


I recently visited the remote village of Grimentz in the Val d’Anniviers while staying in Sierre in the Rhône Valley.

Although the Val d’Anniviers is very accessible from Sierre (bus and car, not train), it is still a nerve-tingling road trip.

I decided to travel by bus, letting someone else worry about the switchbacks and narrow roads.


Road Trip – the adventure


I had only glanced briefly at the road map before doing this journey, thinking that the bus would take me down the valley, then zig-zag for a short while before arriving in Grimentz. I was wrong. If you look closely at a map, you will see that the zig-zagging starts early, then the road cuts into the side of the steep mountains – very high up.

The buses find it particularly tricky as they often need to use both sides of the road to negotiate these switchbacks. They will alert oncoming traffic in the nicest possible way. If you have been on any mountain road on a post bus you will know what I mean. They toot the horn which has a very distinctive & loud sing-song tune. On this particular journey, it can be heard regularly – after a few tight corners, the sing-song horn started to sound suspiciously like brace, brace, brace!


Vissoie Village Centre, Photo by A.Leggett

I was sitting beside the window closest to the drop, having a look now and then, only to see … nothing except the valley below. What amazed me was how calm all the other passengers seemed. Now and then I would frantically look around, hoping to share my obvious nervous energy with others. No one even looked at me, in fact, most of the passengers were chatting calmly or nodding off. I assumed they were locals. Their relaxed states did help calm me somewhat.

Vissoie (1204 m) is located around the centre of the valley and during the trip, the valley floor gradually gains altitude and the road’s curves become more gentle. By the time we arrived the sing-song horn was no longer needed and I had regained my composure.

From Vissoie the road splits in several directions. One way is towards my destination, Grimentz (1572 m) – higher on the southwest side of the valley; or the route to Ayer (1475 m) and Zinal (1675 m) on the southeast side. Another road zig-zags eastward to St-Luc (1,655 m). Due to Vissoie’s geographical location, this is a stage in the trip when passengers need to change buses. When I arrived there was a flurry of people with backpacks and walking poles, moving from one bright yellow bus to another, ready to continue their journey further along the valley.

After all the twists and turns of the road trip, Vissoie feels quite remote but at the same time, it has the look of a resort-style alpine village. At this point, I was looking longingly at the terraced restaurants and chalet-style cafés decorated with bright red geraniums, wanting to stop for a while before moving on, but, of course, Swiss public transport runs like clockwork and my next bus was ready to leave, with or without me.



The road from Vissoie to Grimentz passes through hills and steep meadows rather than dramatic cliffs with beautiful views down the valley.

All in all, it was an amazing experience with unbelievable views – and despite my obvious nervousness, the drivers are experts, and the roads are well maintained and safe.


Grimentz

The Rustic Historical Buildings and some of their Stories


This picturesque village, filled with geraniums in summer, is considered to be one of the most traditional villages of Valais. This is down to the authenticity of its centre. Many of the buildings have been incredibly well preserved with the narrow streets, alleyways and courtyards still feeling like they would have hundreds of years ago.

Traditionally this valley was home to nomadic inhabitants who lived for part of the year in the Rhône Valley. Nowadays fewer people live this way although, in summer, some residence move down to the valley to work in the vineyards.

When visiting the information centre, it is possible to purchase a guide booklet that has a simple numbered map that showing and explaining places of interest in the town.

These are some of the stories from this village:


Looking towards the main square and Bourgeoisie house

One of the oldest houses in Grimentz, found at the far end of this street, was built between 1480 and 1550. This house belonged to the “Bourgeoisie”. The exclusive membership included priority access to services like the mill and sawmill. Being a member was also a way of contributing to the community.

In 1873 a cross was erected to protect the village against fire and the elements.


The mill was understandably an important part of all the villages in this region – since it played a big part in keeping the locals fed. In Grimentz its location also housed the sawmill, bread oven, bread room and slaughterhouse.

There are three animated fountains in the village. The mill worker fountain, a fountain representing fighting Héren cows and the fountain of the baker.

A landslide in 1999 caused both the mill and the original fountain of the baker to be destroyed. The mill was then built with the original materials and the baker’s fountain was also reconstructed.

The Bread House offers tourists the opportunity to make bread in the original bread room every week. Winter: from mid-December to mid-April; Summer: from the beginning of July to the end of October. A notice on the door advises that on the days of bread making there will be smoke coming out of the building and not to be alarmed.

Originally the bread house was where families would come to make bread for the season – four times a year. The bread would, of course, harden over time but families simply cut it with an axe and soaked it in milk, coffee or soup. Perhaps we could learn a thing or two from this.


The houses in the old town mostly date from the 17th and 18th centuries. They are all made of larch which is darkened with time.



The original storehouses and granaries can be seen throughout the old town streets. They date from the 17th century. The stilts are to prevent rodents from getting in and to keep the provisions dry.

Things like dried meat, bread and flour were kept here.


Glacier Wine (Vin du Glacier)

I remember someone telling me that if you like the wine, then it is a good one… I am really curious as to how this particular wine tastes. Hint Hint.

To explain the principle behind Vin du Glacier wine, I have quoted the explanation from the Val d’Anniviers website:


The principle of the Vin du Glacier is simple: the barrels are never emptied. Every year new wine is added to the old. For example :

– The wine in a barrel from 1888 will be blended with one from 1886
– Wine from 1934 will top up the 1888 barrel
– Wine from 1969 will be used to top up the 1934 barrel and will in turn receive new wine in later years

The “Vin du Glacier” cannot be bought. It can only be savoured in the cellars of Anniviers, drawn directly from the barrel.

The cellar of the Maison Bourgeoisiale (ancient Community House) houses among others the famous Bishop’s Barrel. The wine in this larch-wood barrel dates from 1886. Once destined to the Bishop, it is served nowadays to VIP guests on special occasions.

Quote from https://www.valdanniviers.ch/en/glacier-guided-tour-house-bourgeoisie-grimentz-960.html

It is possible to taste the Vin du Glacier wine while visiting Grimentz. (Minimum of 4 people and the language is French). Currently, it is limited to specific dates, weekly, on Mondays at 5 pm. Therefore it is best to arrange any wine tasting at the Grimentz Tourism office or Val d’Anniviers website.



The Navisence River, Val d’Anniviers

Photo by © Steven Van Aerschot | Dreamstime.com


Rando-Fondue

I found this unique experience while looking around the Information Centre in Grimentz:

This is how it works:

  • Book your fondue-kit online by 5pm the day before.
  • On the day, the kit can be picked up from a local supermarket – (the time depends on opening hours).
  • There will be operating instructions, a recipe and walking guide included.
  • Ingredients include bread, cheese, wine (or apple juice) and some extras.

For details go to the local tourism office or follow this link:

valdanniviers.ch


Winter Sports and Activities – Where to find them

The four ski areas of Val d’Anniviers are Grimentz, Zinal, St-Luc/Chandolin and Vercorin. One pass can be used for all areas.

VercorinSki Trekking, winter hiking, snowshoeing, ski school, snow park, natural ice-skating rink, learner slope,
St Luc/Chandolinski trekking, winter hiking, ski school, snow park, 3.5 km sled run, learner slope,
Grimentz/Zinal
ski trekking, winter hiking, ski school, Anniviers Indoor Park, snow parks – different levels, sled runs, cross-country skiing, natural ice-skating rink, learner slope, Escape Room,
Vissioe and valleycross-country skiing, natural ice-skating rink, Escape Room,

For up-to-date information, maps and facilities and contact details for mountain guides

please go to val d’anniviers/infos live

Alpine Pastures

Alpage de la Lée ( La Lée Alpine Pastures)is in a far corner of the Val d’Anniviers

Right at the end of the valley, there are around 800 hectares of pastures in the Alpage de la Lée area. They are spread over different levels from the Plats de la Lée up to the Zinal glacier and between the Navisence River in the valley and the mountain peaks high above the valley on the west side.


In the area known as Le Vichiesso, a former alpine pasture, you will find a tsigière (alpine chalet) reconstructed in the traditional style, (a cheese storeroom can be visited on request). Vichiesso pastures and buildings give an idea of life on the alpine pastures in the past.

Information panels can be found leading up to Petit Mountet mountain hut (2142 m) – open for eating and sleeping from June to October. There are some more traditional huts on the further up.

To get there see my orientation & info tab


Video by Cabane du Petit Mountet – Val d’Anniviers


Bisse des Sarrisins (Irrigation channels of the Saracens)

It is believed that Saracens built the irrigation channel, however, this has never been proven. They are estimated to have been built between 1415 and 1513 when the channel’s source was at a Moulinet (downstream from Pinsec).


The Bisse des Sarrisins irrigation channel is 10 km long and was used for watering livestock, irrigating the pastures and operating sawmills and mills.

Restored in the early 2000s, the Bisse des Sarrasins path is now accessible to hikers. It connects Pinsec to Vercorin and can also be reached from the village of Fang.

You will need a good head for heights in various parts on various parts of this trail.



Useful information

  • Season for hiking:  from May to November
  • Duration: Approx. 3 hours
  • Includes: 17 educational panes along the route

Important

  • This mountain route is medium difficulty
  • It should only be attempted in dry weather
  • You will need a head for heights in some places
  • It’s each person’s responsibility to look for any changes to conditions or the roads/track before doing it.

Below is a link for more information on Bisse des Saracens and other hikes:

  • This Val D’Anniviers page gives details on popular trails including the Bisse des Saracens hike and hikes to alpine lakes and alpine huts.

I


Visiting the Mills

The Grimentz mills date back to 1716. They were renovated in the early 1970s, and a vertical waterwheel was installed on the south façade to recreate a working site.

As mentioned on the village tab, the mill was refurbished in the traditional style, with millstones and a horizontal blade drive system, after part of it was badly damaged in May 1999

The Saint-Luc mills (Les Moulins Saint-Luc) can be found near Saint-Luc, down at the Torrent des Moulins river. These mills were built in the 16th century and renovated in 1986. On the site of the mills, you will find a corn mill, barley and nut press, 2 rye and wheat mills, a cloth mill, and the miller’s house. See the local tourism office for opening times

To get there and map see my orientation & info tab


Winter in Vissoie Village as seen from St Luc


In the past, the steep elevation of the mountains in this part of Valais caused the region to become isolated. This resulted in the formation of some unique regional dialects. Although the local population still use these dialects, they also speak standard French and German.

Interesting Fact:

The western part of the canton is mostly French-speaking (Valais) and the eastern part (Wallis) is mostly German-speaking. The mountain ridges between Val d’Anniviers and the Turtmanntal valley are considered the imaginary line or “Röstigraben” that separates the two. The clue is in the names of the valleys – Tal is German, Val is French.

See Below for Transport Information


Places mentioned in this post are displayed on the map


Transport Information

Buses leave regularly from Sierre to Vissoie (change here for connections to further down the valley, or across to St Luc). See sbb.ch for timetable and route information.

Main Routes

Sierre – Vercorin

Sierre – Vissoie

Vissoie – St-Luc

Vissoie – Grimentz

Vissoie – Grimentz – Lac de Moiry

Vissoie – (stops at Ayer) – Zinal


Cable Cars, Gondolas, chairlifts and St Luc’s Funicular

For up-to-date information on season information, the Val d’Anniviers website Info Live page has all current information.


How to Experience the Awe-Inspiring Aletsch Glacier – My Valais Adventure

On the trail between Moosfluh & Hohfluh viewing platforms. Photo by A.Leggett

The Great Aletsch Glacier – A UNESCO World Heritage Site

In 2001, the Aletsch Glacier & Jungfrau-Aletsch Protected Area was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site.

The Aletsch Glacier is over 20km long and the largest glacier in the Alps – however, sadly, it is rapidly receeding. Pro Natura (A Swiss nature & environment organisation) reports that this impressive glacier is retreating by up to 50m in length each year as well as shrinking at the edges.

There are four viewing platforms to see the Glacier. They give brilliant views of the glacier and a 360-degree view of mountains. It is possible (depending on the platform/area) to see Aletschhorn, Matterhorn, Jungfrau, Mönch, Eiger, Dom & Weissmies mountains.

The Hike from Moosfluh to Riederfurka


Length: 4.4 km

Highest Point: 2,333 m

Lowest Point: 1,923 m

Duration: approx. 1 hr 30 mins

Ascent: 3 m

Descent: 410 m

Difficulty: moderate

Time of Year: May – September

See below for the hiking map


This hike takes you along a trail that mostly follows the ridgeway between Moosfluh to Riederfurka. You walk through a landscape of boulders and stones carpeted with alpine plants and moss – some very rare. After passing the Hohfluh chairlift the landscape becomes softer with trees dotted around and a few small ponds. 

The whole walk is stunning, with almost constant views of the Aletsch Glacier and the massive mountains on the other side. 

Gondolas from Mörel

When I did this trip I was staying in Kandersteg, in a valley south of Interlaken. I couldn’t believe how easy it was to get to the Aletsch Arena gondolas considering there are huge mountains between Kandersteg and the Rhône Valley. The solution: a simple train trip through a long tunnel, a change at Brig and a 10-minute bus trip to the Mörel (Riederalpbahn) stop. I love the Swiss transport system!

The bus stop is right outside the Riederalp Mitte gondola valley station in Mörel. This gondola goes up to Riederalp Village, then the next ride –  Gletscherbahn Moosfluh is within walking distance.


When reaching the top of the Moosfluh gondola (2,333 m) you are surrounded by an incredible rocky alpine landscape, and, like the icing on the cake – the view of the Aletsch Glacier and craggy mountains just stuns. For me, this was a definite WOW moment. I couldn’t figure out why everyone around me was just calmy walking around – I felt like jumping up and down and saying, ‘Are you Serious’!


The trail splits and joins up again for most of the hike. You can normally choose which path you want to take as they all end up at the same place. The yellow signposts indicate when the path leads to a different route so it is important to stop and look at the signs before continuing. Also, as I found out, there are often plenty of seasoned hikers who are happy to help point you in the right direction.


Hohfluh lookout Photo by A.Leggett

If you want to stop the hike here and use the Hohfluh chairlift, I would recommend checking out its seasonal operating times as the summer season is quite short (see the Practical Information tab above).

From the Hohfluh chairlift, the landscape becomes greener with trees dotted around, offering a bit of shade. The path then goes away from the glacier, winding slightly downhill to the Riederfurka area.


The ancient Aletsch forest is home to the oldest trees in Switzerland – according to the Pro Natura Centre Aletsch which is found at Riederfurka. There are hiking trails through the forest from various points along this route.

The Riederfurka area has facilities – restaurants and self-service options. There is also the informative Pro Natura Centre (The building that looks a bit like a castle) with information on the glacier, flora & fauna – including the ancient forest – and the nature protection area. From Riederfurka it is a downhill walk to the village of Riederalp and the Riederallp West gondola station.


Riederalp West gondola

At the end of the walk, Riederalp village looked very inviting as somewhere to stop for a while. However, I needed to get back down and figure out where my accommodation was in Sierre.

Hiking around here is truly amazing – I would definitely recommend it but keep an eye on busy times – school holidays, weekends etc. as the Aletsch Arena is popular – as you would expect.


Map and details of my walk in the Aletsch Arena

Viewing areas – from East to West

Eggishorn is the highest viewing area in the Aletsch Arena (2,869m). It offers a 20km view of the Aletsch Glacier plus it is possible to view Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau on a clear day. 

Bettmerhorn (2,647 m). Apart from the viewing platform, there is a Glacier World Bettmerhorn multimedia exhibition. Bettmerhorn viewing platform is barrier-free

Moosfluh (2,333 m) & Hohfluh are reasonably close together and there is a stunning panorama hike between the two. Moosfluh offers a higher viewpoint of the glacier when looking one way, and the squiggly hiking trails can clearly be seen when looking towards the west. This platform is about 100 metres from the cable car.

HohFluh viewing point is where you have one of the best views of the glacier’s curves and also the forest nature reserve that slopes downwards toward the glacier.


Some public transport information for travelling up to the Aletsch Glacier, from Mörel, Betten & Fiesch in the Rhône Valley


Public Transport (2021)please check below for operating times & sbb.ch for times & stops.

Trains operate from:Visp, end station Andermatt & Brig, end station Fiesh (via Betten)
Buses operate from:Brig, end station Fiesch
Regular connections:Sion and Sierre in the west and Bern, Spiez & Kandersteg in the north

Gondola & Cable car connections & operating times

Mörel to Moosfluh lookout and trails 1. Take Riederalp Mitte gondola to Riederalp. 2. Walk to Gletscherbahn Moosfluh, (a combination of gondolas & chairs in winter but only gondolas in summer).
Mörel to Hohfluh lookout and trails1. Take the Riederalp Mitte or Riederalp West gondolas to Riederalp. 2. Walk to Hohfluh chairlift. (limited operating times, see below).
Betten to Bettmerhorn lookout and trails1. Take the Bettmeralp cable car to Bettmeralp. 2. 15 minute walk to Bettmerhorn gondola. 3. Take the Bettmerhorn gondola.
Fiesch to Eggishorn lookout and trails1. Take the Fiesch gondola to Fiescheralp. 2. Take the Fiescheralp gondola to Eggishorn.

The Seasonal Operating Times 2021 (for up-to-date info go to either aletscharena.ch or sbb.ch):

Summer/Autumn 2021

5. June 2021 until 24. October 2021

  • Riederalp (Chair Lift) – Hohfluh
    3. July until 15. August 2021
  • Riederalp (Gondola) – Moosfluh
    5. June until 24. October 2021
  • Bettmeralp – Bettmerhorn
    5 June until 24 October 2021
  • Fiescheralp – Eggishorn
    5 June until 24 October 2021

Winter 2021/2022

8. December 2021 until 18. April 2022

Hiking the Gemmipass – A Must-Do Swiss Classic

Daubensee (2207m). Photo by A.Leggett

The Gemmi is a historical crossing of the northern Alpine chain. This north/south crossing – between Kandersteg and Leukerbad, was once a significant route used by the Celts, Romans, and the Alemanni (Germanic tribes). For hundreds of years, it was also a crossing point for nobility, writers and artists alike. Attractions such as its incredible wild beauty, the thermal baths in Leukerbad, and its convenience as a crossing all played parts in its popularity.

Today it is considered to be the “Klassiker der Schweizer Wanderklassiker,” which translates as the classic of the Swiss hiking classics.

The Landscape

The hiking path, popular with the Swiss, passes through an amazing natural environment – from boulder-strewn landscapes, past alpine lakes & rugged cliffs rising abruptly upwards, to soft meadows with ancient trees and the most incredible sweeping views to look at every step of the way.

Getting There

Trains frequently run through the Rhône Valley and are a great way to start your journey up into the mountains, both north and south.

Train & Bus:

Trains run from the main Rhône Valley towns – Sion, Sierre, Visp and Leuk, and from the north – Interlaken & Spiez, to Leuk (731m).

Buses connect at Leuk train station(731m) to Leukerbad(1,411m) – (no train service for this route).

The road up to Leukerbad is steep with numerous switchbacks – approx. 30 mins. From here you can walk for 11 mins or take a connecting bus (see sbb.ch for all train and bus timetables)


The Hike – Leukerbad Cable Car (Valais) to Kandersteg, Sunnbüel Cable Car (Bernese Oberland)


Distance:

8.5 km (+ 2 km diversion for Arven Forest circular walk)


Best Time of Year:

June – Oct (although this pass can also be visited in winter for winter walking and sports)


Duration:

2.5 hrs (3-3.5 hrs incl. circular walk through Arven Forest)


Difficulty:

Moderate, reasonable stamina (and good hiking boots).


Descent/Ascent:

475 m/71m


Status of Pass & Gondolas:

Leukerbad Tourism Website – up-to-date info.

Sunnbüel Cable Car & Gemmi Cable Car Warning: the Sunnbüel cable car mountain station currently (08/21) only accepts cash.


A Gemmi Pass hiking map can be found at the bottom of this page.

Gemmi Trail

Don’t get the Gemmi Pass hike confused with the Gemmi Trail. The Trail is a difficult ascent from Leukerbad up to the top of the Gemmi cable car. It is extremely challenging (900 metres in 2 hours) but would also be a great achievement. You would be following in the footsteps of some famous names – Goethe, Mark Twain, Lenin and Picasso (according to the Leukerbad Tourism site).


Gemmi Pass Hike



I did this walk a few years ago – it is one I had wanted to do for a while and was well worth the wait. The walk starts at the top of the thrilling Leukerbad cable car (can be done from either direction). From here, you follow the signposts pointing towards Kandersteg. The sign indicates that the hike takes 4 hours, however, that is only if you decide not to take the Sunnbüel cable car & bus at the end of this walk. (I confirmed this with some seasoned walkers).



We soon came across Daubensee which lies at 2207m. Once reaching this impressive lake, you can see the path stretching off into the distance, giving an idea of what is coming up. The main path is on the right-hand side of the lake which was a bit of a relief to me as the other path, which you can also do, looked pretty challenging.

After the lake, you start to go downhill through rocky terrain, past loads of weather-beaten boulders. If you use your imagination, they start looking like strange creatures from another world.


After about 30 minutes you can see the Schwarenbach restaurant in the distance. you can stop here for a drink or snack and, of course, a toilet break. The hiking trail goes between the tables on the terrace and past a small kiosk which sells postcards and, sometimes, sun hats etc. – very civilised.



From this point, the views change with most of the rocks and boulders now covered with plants and trees.



It is possible to do a small diversion into the Arven Forest (Arvenwald) after about 6 km into the walk. The diversion is clearly marked as a Rundweg (circular path) which will bring you back on the trail to Sunnbüel. Make sure to follow the yellow signposts and diamonds that show the way. This will also take you past two small lakes called Arvenseeli – however, these are often dried up in summer.



After the forest, there are several ascents. At this point, it’s pretty satisfying to look back to see how far you have come.



When arriving at the very welcoming Bergrestaurant Sunnbüel you can see views of the Kandersteg region including the impressive Gasterntal (Gastern Valley which I am visiting and will be writing about soon). The cable car is here and it leaves every half hour but, as with a lot of these cable cars, it goes more often during busy times.

There is also the option to walk down rather than take the cable car although I haven’t done this myself. Note: In the past, the Sunnbüel cable car wouldn’t accept credit cards, only cash.

The bus from the valley to Kandersteg (March 2024) leaves every hour (until 18:56 in summer) see sbb.ch for up-to-date information.