Ticino

After travelling south through the Gotthard pass, you emerge at the northern Ticino town of Airolo. This is the start of the Val Leventina; the central valley of the canton. From here, the motorway and train will take you south to Bellinzona and into Italy. The valley was once part of Lombardy with armies fiercely fighting for control of this strategic alpine pass. Eventually, it became a Swiss colony & during the Napoleonic period; an independent Swiss Canton.

The Cities

As soon as you enter Ticino, the language, food and architecture change to Italian. The two main cities, Lugano and Locarno, are often considered the prettiest cities in Switzerland. Both are spread along the side of beautiful lakes, (Lago Maggiore & Lago Lugano) surrounded by green hills and have a backdrop of snow-peaked mountains. They boast stunning Italian architecture with colourful facades and attractive squares. Locarno is more of a resort town, with the pretty town of Ascona attached to its western edge.

The Villages

When you venture into the Maggia and Verzasca valleys that reach deep into the mountains north of Locarno, you will find a peaceful and idyllic place, dotted with small rustic villages, crystal clear rivers and vast panoramas.

Lesser known traditional villages are found in the mountains to the north and far south. Their traditional way of living and hidden, quiet locations are part of what makes the canton of Ticino so special.

With a bit of research and my own experiences here is what I found:

Mountains and Valleys

Valle Leventina & Strada Alta della Leventina hike

The classic hiking route, high up on the sunny side of the Leventina Valley, can be hiked in three stages. On the 45 km long long-distance hiking trail from Airolo to Biasca. The typical antique wooden houses testify to the hardships of rural life and the old, increasingly disappearing alpine culture. The views from up here as well as the picturesque villages make this high-altitude hike a classic. 

Valle Leventina

The Valle Leventina (Leventina Valley), at the northern end of canton Ticino, is crossed by the north/south A2 motorway and a railway line that emerges from the Gotthard base tunnel at Bodio. Opened in 2016, the Gotthard base train tunnel is the world’s longest – cutting an hour of the previous travel time from Zürich.

Even though this is a main route for commuting, once you are up on the Strada Alta della Leventina (900 – 1400 metres above sea level) it feels a million miles away. The rural road links several picturesque villages with their typical Walser stone & wooden houses. It’s a great way to get up close to the traditional alpine culture of this region.

The locals used to use this road to walk between villages. They now drive and it is mainly hikers who are using these trails.

La Strada Alta della Leventina

Valle Piora & the Ritom Funicular

This is the kind of view to expect from the top of the Ritom Funicular. From Piotta, situated next to Airolo, a well-known funicular takes you up the Piora Valley. There are about 13 lakes, spread around the valley that sits at 1,700m above sea level.

Something extra… When you get close to Lago Cadagno (photo above), there is a small hamlet of stone huts. If you are lucky enough, you will see Proscuitto ham hanging from the ceiling in the Cantina di affinamento cellar. The observation point of the cellar in Cadagno is open to the public with free access from June to September thanks to two small windows that allow you to observe the ageing process of Prosciutto Piora from the outside. It is in this important phase that the scents of the pure mountain air give the ham its softness, rosy colour, sweetness and refined hazelnut note.

Piotta is a 5 minutes drive down the Leventina Valley by car from Airolo. The funicular’s gradient is 87.8%, rising by 780m. More information for both the Leventina Valley and the Piora Valley, including hiking trails, are available on the Ritom website or in a brochure which is provided at the departure point of the Ritom, Airolo, Tremorgio and Carì Cableways, as well as at the tourist offices and in various tourist destinations in Switzerland and Northern Italy.

The Valleys North of Locarno – traditional villages and wild landscapes

Valle Verzasca

This picture-postcard valley is tucked between thickly forested mountainsides. It is a popular destination for tourists – especially the Swiss. The river’s crystal clear water rushes over smooth pale boulders and rocks with ancient arched bridges as you go further up the valley. It takes about 30 mins to drive to the much-photographed Ponte dei Salti and 5 minutes more to Ponte Verzasca. For the parking at Ponte dei Salti…. avoid it if you can! This is a very popular spot.

Sonogno Village, the last village in this valley, is about 20 drive from Ponte dei Salti. This pretty village has a small monthly market from May to October offering locally made crafts and food (doesn’t run during bad weather). There is a museum about the history of the valley – on my list of things to do – and at the Casa della Lana (House of Wool) wool is spun & dyed according to tradition to create artisanal products.

WARNING: There is a higher than normal percentage of swimming accidents in the valley’s rivers. Be aware of the slippery rocks, water flow, and depth. The water is also refreshingly cold in this part of the canton – from 15-19 degrees so beware of jumping into cold water when feeling overheated. The body needs time to adjust.

Valli Maggia, Rovana, Bavona & Livizzara

Valle Maggia

Valle Maggia starts from Locarno. The further you enter this valley the less crowded it becomes. A succession of valleys branches out from Valle Maggia, with rarely climbed peaks, crystal water and mountain lakes; mixed and fir forests and alpine huts. The narrow Valle Rovana ends up with the highest and one of the cutest villages in Ticino, Bosco Gurin. The Valle Bavona hides the tallest waterfall of Ticino in Foroglio.

There is an option of both short easy hikes as well as the more demanding ones. The red-white marked trails with yellow signposts are less demanding. Some trails are only for the experienced and need the proper equipment and fitness levels.

Valle Rovana

At the village of Cevio, the Valle Rovana splits off to the left, ending up at the highest village in Ticino, Bosco Gurin. This tiny historical Walser village is a well-preserved settlement, consisting of older log buildings and younger stone houses in a peaceful place at 1,500m above sea level. There is also a small ski resort here for anyone visiting in winter and a small museum if you want to find out the history of the area. (The museum website has audio files of the Walser language – love it!)

Valle Bavona

Continuing up from Cevio, the Maggia Valley splits again. To the left is Valle Bavona. This is a definite off-the-beaten-track destination. The valley is only inhabited in summer with no electricity grid although generators and solar panels ensure the locals are kept comfortable. This valley is considered to be one of the steepest and rockiest in the Alps.

The village of Foroglio, deep in the valley, has good examples of the traditional Ticinese stone houses of this area. Also worth seeing is the lovely waterfall located close to the village which also happens to be the tallest waterfall in Ticino. San Carlo is nestled up against the mountainside at the end of the valley. The only way forward is up the mountain on a cable car (only accessible in summer). See below for details on hiking up the valley.

Image by: Paebi, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Valle Lavizzara

This valley is home to the San Giovanni Battista iconic church in Mogno and the beautiful village of Fusio with its jumble of stone and wood houses built into the rocks. The San Giovanni Battista church was built between 1994 and 1996 at the site of an older church that was destroyed by an avalanche in 1986. it was designed by the architect Mario Botta.

You can check out more of Mario Botta’s amazing architecture by going to his website.

Locarno & Lugano

Piazza Grande – ready for one of Locarno’s festivals

We decided to stay in the Italian part of Switzerland for a large family gathering a few years ago and hit the jackpot in Locarno. We managed to find a fantastic place to stay – a huge pink villa. It rose up to a great height with sweeping staircases, a turret, high ceilings and a long enclosed sun terrace looking out on a garden. It was old, rambling and didn’t have a pool, just a hose to cool us down, but we felt like royalty. We didn’t do anything too adventurous on that trip as the children were very young – mostly wandering around the old town, visiting Ascona, and Lugano and going up a cable car. The villa, the wonderful Piazza Grande, the lakeside and the mountain views were enough to give us great memories of this wonderful region.

When looking for accommodation my advice would be to look for something traditional. The villas and apartments can be wonderfully flamboyant in the cities and rustic in the valleys and mountain villages.

Locarno’s Markets & Festivals

The Piazza Grande is a large square lined with arcades, built in the Lombard style. The lake’s water used to come right up to the houses on the square but eventually receded and the attractive cobbled stones were built in its place. This large square hosts a market every Wednesday (from 9 am – 5 pm) and Thursday (less frequent in winter). This square also hosts various cultural events such as the Moon & Stars Music Festival, Locarno Film Festival, and the Food Truck Festival.

Lugano Parks & Gardens

Parco Ciani viewpoint

Lugano has many parks and green spaces in and around the town and surrounding hills.

Here are some of the best:

Parco Ciani

LUGANO

Definitely one of the most beautiful parks in Switzerland. This centrally located park is 63,000 m2. The backdrop is always changing offering spectacular views of the lake, hills and mountains. There are two sections to this park. The Villa Ciani has a mix of English and Italian gardens, green lawns and wide flower beds. The second part is from the dock up to the river Cassarate with plenty of trees such as sycamores, oaks and lime trees which are typical of the forests of Ticino. The children’s playground is in this part as well as the Natural History Museum, Library and Convention centre.

• Open every day – Summer 6:00-23:00; Winter 6:00-20:00
• Not accessible to bikes
• Restaurant/Bar: Osteria del Porto
• Free Entry

TIP: After crossing this park and then the river you will find a huge Lido with a sandy beach – There’s an entry fee.

Parco San Grato

LUGANO-CARONA

This park is 200,000 m2 and is located southwest of Ponte Diga di Melide, the bridge over the lake. It has a great vantage point spread up to the mountainside between San Salvatore and Mont Abòstora. It has an impressive collection of azaleas, rhododendrons and conifers. There is a playground in the centre, amongst the trees.

Parco San Grato has five themed trails to wander around: Botanical, relaxation, scenic, artistic and fairy-tale, and a sensory path created for the 60th anniversary of the Park in 2017.

• Open every day
• Free entry
• Picnic area
• Playground
• Not accessible to bikes
• Arrive by Post Bus: from Lugano center to Carona, 25 minutes, then a 20-minute walk. See sbb.ch for more details on bus stops.

Parco Dell’Olivo

CASTAGNOLA

At the city end of the Sentiero di Gandria (Olive Tree Trail), the terraced Parco E Sentiero Dell’Olivo is on the slope of Mont Brè. It is a wild park and includes olive trees, cypresses, laurels and myrtles. There are plenty of benches for enjoying the views. You can continue to Gandria along the 2km Trail with its 18 information boards providing details about the history and preservation of olive trees.

• Free Entry
• Open every day
• Dogs: on the lead
• Not accessible to bikes
• No Playground
• Restaurants/Bar: yes, close to the park

Parco San Michele

LUGANO-VIGANELLO

This park is 12,000 m2 and is perched on the slopes of Monte Brè with views of Lugano, Monte San Salvatore and beyond. There is a chapel, some stone sculptures and paths through wisteria, oleanders, oak, elm, ash and laurel.

Lakeside places

Gambarogno Region – on Lago Maggiore

The Riviera del Gambarogno, with its characteristic Ticino villages on the eastern shore of Lago Maggiore, extends along the lakeside for a stretch of 10 kilometres, from the tip of the lake to the Italian border. The area is characterized by several quiet villages.

The town of Vira, with the Church of San Pietro which rises impressively above Lake Locarno, is considered the historic centre of the Gambarogno. You will find a colourful village centre with old houses huddled close together, narrow streets and arcades.

The lakeshore is popular during the summer months when the little beaches become crowded which is probably due to the water temperature of the lake often sitting at 20-22° c. From Vira, there is a zig-zag road up to Alto Gambarogno which offers peace and quiet and views reaching back to the Alps. The road leads to Neggia Pass which is a starting point for plenty of hikes through chestnut groves and meadows. The two peaks to head for are Tamaro (1,961 m above sea level) and Gambarogno (1,734 m above sea level), with approx 200km of hiking trails around this area.

Hiking possibilities: Info on the official route Sentiero del Monte Gambarogno, No. 613 hike (7.1 km) from Neggia Pass, Ritrovo di Neggia Restaurant to Indemini can be found here: Ascona, Locarno website. Directions to Alpe di Neggia by public transport can be found on sbb.ch.

gandria – Lake Lugano

I have visited this quiet little village on the edge of Lake Lugano a few times. The photos above were taken when I stayed here with my mum. The view would change depending on the time of day and each time seemed to look better than the last.

Getting to Gandria

When we took the train from Zurich to Lugano the fasted route was via a switch-back track, going in and out of tunnels through the mountains. Amazing alpine views would suddenly appear then, just as quickly disappear as we weaved our way south through the Alps. Nowadays there is a faster way to get to Lugano – via the state-of-the-art Gotthard Base Tunnel which saves an hour of travelling time. Boats leave from Lugano‘s port (Centrale Lago) to Gandria.

Gandria is a small village with not a lot to do nevertheless, it is very idyllic. It has lovely restaurants with balconies that hang over the river, a gorgeous baroque church and boutique shops.

Walk to Lugano

We walked into Lugano on the Sentiero di Gandria, which forms most of the Olive Tree Trail. The path is mostly away from the road – just you and the lake with a few small buildings and restaurants. Once in Lugano, you walk past some impressive mansions and across Ciani Park to get to the centre. You could also wander up to Parco San Michele which has spectacular views over the lake.

Gandria can be reached by road (directly above the town) by bus or car. You can’t drive into the village centre.

Morcote – Lake Lugano

Morcote is one of the most beautiful villages in Switzerland with well-preserved waterfront buildings, archways and lovely stone houses crowded together alongside narrow alleyways. It is on a piece of land that juts southward into Lake Lugano, sitting below a chain of hills that rise to around 800 metres above sea level. Above the village impressive historical architecture, monuments, gardens and a protected forest reserve are spread over the slopes and terraces.

One of the best ways to visit this place is by boat which offers a striking view of the village and historical monuments from a distance and on a calm day, reflected in the lake.

Tenuta Castello di Morcote

Castello di Morcote is a farm and organic winery. Situated high above the village, it is spread over 150 hectares with the 15th-Century Morcote Castle in the centre. A wonderful place for a wine-tasting tour in an incredible setting of woods, olive groves, historical buildings, wine cellars and, of course, vineyards. They have a great website which explains the history of the place as well as the many wine and food experiences that they offer.

Parco Scherrer Morcote

Parco Scherrer Gardens, created between 1881 and 1956, is known as the “Garden of Wonders”. I remember visiting here about 18 years ago and was wowed by it then. It is set on terraces spread over the western side of the town.

You will find all sorts of ornamental fountains and artistic features throughout the park. For example – the statues of Venus, Juno and Jupiter and historical representations of famous places such as the Acropolis in Athens and the Alhambra Gardens in Granada – all set amongst over fifty varieties of plants. There is a lot of symbolism in the garden and it is a good idea to have a guide to understand what it all means. The section on Parco Scherrer on the Morcote Tourismo website (link below) explains the history and has a section on exploring the park.

Historical Church of Santa Maria del Sassa

The iconic Romanesque church of Santa Maria del Sassa and its elegant bell Tower above Morcote create an elegant silhouette when arriving by boat. This church is full of architectural masterpieces – beautiful vault decorations, 16th-century frescoes, a marbled altar and outstanding artwork.

Legend has it that a stone Madonna with Child was found in the excavation giving the church its name.

It is possible to walk up to the church and its grounds from Morcote, however, you need to be prepared for lots of steps.

Acknowledgements

Indemini photo taken by: Marco.Ravicini all the luxus you need via photopin (license)

Top photo by: Boris Baldinger on Unsplash Lake Cadagno

La Strada Alta della Leventina Photo by: markvonrotz from Pixabay

Valley Maggia stone tower photo by: Gabriela Fink from Pixabay

San Giovanni Battista Church photo by: Albi Perrig from Pixabay

Parco Ciani, Lugano photo by: Laila Gebhard on Unsplash

Locarno Piazza Grande with yellow chairs photo by: vco24 from Pixabay

Val Bavona Image by: adege from Pixabay

Morcote Photo by: Henrique Ferreira on Unsplash