A bit about Graubündens Historical Buildings
Sgraffito – art and storytelling
What is Sgraffito?
Sgraffito (from the Italian verb ‘sgraffiare’ = to etch) is a kind of traditional etchings used to create artistic markings on building facades. During the Renaissance, the technology was brought to Graubünden’s Engadin Valley by Italian builders – and then over the pass into the Albula Valley. The heyday of the sgraffitos was between 1650 and 1750.
They can still be found on many buildings all over Graubünden’s villages – from mythical creatures to mysterious shapes and patterns. They would represent the wishes and hopes of the farmers who lived in this tough environment – often staying around for future generations.
Sometimes local craftsmen were known to add personal touches to their work, making many of the seemingly identical symbols in fact unique.
Typical motifs include geometric patterns, wavy ribbons, rosettes, crosses, animals or mythological figures. The motifs usually have a superstitious meaning, they symbolize life, happiness, protection or fertility.
Josin Neuhäusler from Susch in the Engadin still masters the old craft. The painter learned it from his father and also offers sgraffito courses. To find out more go to his website.
The above information can be found on the website https://www.lebendige-traditionen.ch/tradition/en/home.html. This website, by the Federal Office of Culture, documents Living Traditions in Switzerland. They have an inventory of traditions that have been passed down from one generation to the next. These include all kinds of skills such as Sgraffito.
Beautiful buildings – some typical of the area and some unique
Image of Kloster St. Johann Müstair @Gianni Bodini Graubünden Ferien
Filisur
If you are travelling towards St. Moritz by train, the mountain resort of Filisur is the first stop after passing over the impressive Landwasser Viadukt.
Whether by car or train, it is worth stopping for a walk through the historical town centre to discover the everyday past lives of people in the Albula Valley.
The buildings within this town centre are well preserved both inside and out – very much like a living museum. The owners seem to take great pride in telling the stories of their ancestors or previous owners making it easy to step back in time while walking the streets and alleyways.
Next stop:
Bergün is well-known as an attractive mountain village and, in winter, offers an iconic sledding run which includes a ride up the valley on the UNESCO world heritage railway, then a toboggan run down through Viaduct arches.
- Chur-Filisur – 1 hour
- Filisur-Bergun – 15 mins
- Bergün to St. Moritz – 45 mins
Hinterrhein Village of splügen
Splügen Village and Pass
Splügen, settled in the 13th century by Swiss-German speaking Walsers, lies at an altitude of 1460 metres and together with several other small villages, belongs to the district of Rheinwald. The village’s location on the old pack mule routes has exposed it to influences from both north and south since Roman times. For over 2000 years, the Splügen Pass was the most important link between Graubünden and Italy. The pack mule trail over the San Bernardino pass also played a large part. Some Rheinwald settlers became very wealthy through the pack-mule trade. This can be seen in the large stoned-roofed palazzi houses – whose style was influenced by the southern alp settlements. The Rheinwald Splügen Folk Museum in Splügen shows what life was like for the traders and settlers during this time.
The Gotthard railway opening at the end of the 19th Century caused a rapid decline of pack mule traffic. The opening of the San Bernardino road tunnel in 1967 helped the town economically. The village has preserved much of its original character and was awarded the 1995 Wakker Prize of the Swiss Heritage Society for its intact original architectural appearance.
The information, facts and figures above were found on schweizmobil.ch (the website for Stiftung Schweizmobil) along with details about walks in the area.
What to see in the area:
The Naturpark Beverin offers walks, stunning gorges, hiking to mountain villages, Andeer’s thermal baths and skiing. More information is on my Naturpark Beverin page.
By Train: Chur – 1 hr 15 – 2 hrs incl. changes
By Bus: Chur – 1 hr
By Car: Chur – approx. 45 mins – 51km, A13
Kloster St Johann, Müstair – A UNESCO World Heritage Site
Müstair
Müstair village is tucked far away in the Val Müstair, deep in the most eastern part of Graubünden, close to the border with Italy. In the local Romansch, the language unique to Graubünden, Müstair is equivalent to Minster in English – both correspond to the word monastery.
The monastery complex was founded in the 8th Century and is steeped in legend and mystery. According to a well-known legend, Charlemagne was responsible for the founding of the convent. It is said that he was so grateful for his survival after he walked away unharmed from a large snowstorm in the area that he gave instructions for the monastery to be constructed. This complex has only been partially destroyed over the centuries and now has building styles and art treasures from several eras. Nuns have lived in the convent since the 12th century. Convent life, cultivation, the museum and the restoration come together, turning this site into something very special.
Convent Museum
The convent’s museum can be found in the monastery’s fortified Planta Tower (10th century). It holds over 1200 years of art and cultural history within its walls. The Benedictine nuns of Müstair also allow visitors a glimpse inside the convent to see their daily life.
Museum visit
The museum is very atmospheric, giving an authentic peek into the convents past. It starts in the cloister, then goes through to the vast cellar of the Planta Tower before continuing up three floors. The tower houses a ‘convent within the convent’. with reception and living areas, sleeping quarters and prayer areas.
UNESCO World Heritage Site
A deciding factor for listing the complex as a UNESCO World Heritage Site was down to the wonderfully preserved frescos found in the convent church which dates back to the early middle ages. These are considered to be one of the largest and best-preserved fresco cycles around today.
By Train: Landquart – 2 hrs 15 – 3 hrs; Scuol – 1hr 45 – 2 hrs
By Car: Landquart – 112 km (approx. 2 hrs); Scuol – 66 km (approx. 1 hr 15)
