Parc Ela is the largest nature park in Switzerland, offering steep mountain peaks, glaciers and mountain lakes. Within this wildness, Romanesque villages with intact historic centres and baroque churches are a reminder of the earlier importance of the trade routes over the Albula, Julier and Septimer passes. The communities work together to strengthen the region’s economy, protect nature and preserve their cultural heritage. Bergün and Filisur are two examples of this preservation. When I discovered these places, I knew they were special and was happy to see the obvious pride and care the local communities have for these towns.

the tiny villages of Mons and Stierva and 9th century St. Peter Mistail church

These small villages are centred around the town of Tiefencastel(851). The historical significance of Tiefencastel stems from its geographical location: two traffic routes cross here at the confluence of the Albula and Julia rivers: north-south from Chur to the Julier and Septimer passes and west-east from the Schynschlucht gorge to the Albulapass and via Davos to the Flüelapass into the Lower Engadine. A road also connects Tiefencastel with Lenzerheide. Its location makes Tiefencastel the departure point for many excursions around Parc Ela.

Tiny villages are dotted around the hills above Tiefencastel. Examples are Stierva and Mons. They are worth a stop as the views are magnificent. The ancient churches are of historic significance. There is a quiet and peaceful atmosphere in and around these towns and the churches, that have been standing for hundreds of years, and are well preserved.

One historical building worth mentioning is the St. Peter Mistail church, which stand outside it’s town of Alvaschein, within close proximity to Tiefencastel. It is a good-sized Carolingian church built at the beginning of the 9th Century – so very old! This seems to be a popular place to visit, some people mention how it was worth traipsing through thick snow to get there. I am yet to try this but are determined to give it a go. When I will do, there will be plenty of pictures of this and other places in the area. Directions: When driving, instead of turning left to Tiefencastel, you turn onto Schynstrasse, a further minute down the road will take you to a small road called Mistail. Here you can park your car and walk. There is a simple sign indicating that there is a church down this road. When not driving, Bus 571 stops over the road from the Mistail track. All very secret squirrel!!

While in this area, a drive up the sunny side of the valley, through Tiefencastel will take you on a switchback road. Try very hard to concentrate on the road as the views are incredible at each turn. You will arrive at Mons and then, further on to Stierva if you wish. You will find the traditional Beizli’s dotted around these towns. When translated, Beizli is Swiss German for pub but they are normally a small, simple rustic restaurant with terraces. They are generally very traditional with tasty but simple menus. As with many restaurants in Switzerland there is always one or two rest days or Ruhetage. These are rest days so not open. There is an example of a large Beizli called Ustareia da Mon in Mons. While in Mons, take a 500 metre walk to the 1000-year-old church of St. Cosmas and Damian which stands on a small ledge below the village. It is one of the most notable early Romanesque churches in Switzerland. Like the town, it is tiny, but like surrounding landscape, it is impressive. So after a snack in the Ustareia, visiting these two sights is definitely worth it..There are also some benches and meadows in and around this church so possibly a good place to have a picnic. You will see how much you climbed in the car, bus or perhaps bike to this impressive location.

Getting There and Away: With the car – 7mins from Tiefencastel to Mons then a further 5 mins to Stierva. With the bus – Bus 573 and 182 from the Tiefencastel train station taking 9 mins Mons and 14 to Stierva. Check www.sbb.ch for the timetable. Groceries: No store in Mons but there is a small store as you enter the town in Stierva plus various farm shops or hofladen and restaurants. Swiss Walking trails/biking trails available: Mountainbike trail no. 1 & 242. and Hiking trail No. 64 (stage 3) Viasett. This walk from Tiefencastel to Savognin is 12km long. The first part is 500m Ascent to Mons. An option would be to take the bus to Mons, then continue the rest of the hike. (10km with about 150 Ascent for the first km then easier going from then on). Or go in the other direction – if your knees can handle the last descent!

Stugl and Heidi’s mountain world

The church at Stugl, a small, but steep detour between Filisur and Bergün, is a good example of this. The St. Johannes Reformation Church has well preserved frescoes, dating back to the 14th Century, completely covering the curved walls on the inside. The town is sitting high up on a narrow ledge at 1551m, overlooking the valley with the church sitting on a small rocky hill, surrounded by a walled cemetery.

The first Heidi films were shot close Falein and Latsch were the locations for the 1952 Heidi film. The original house from the film is seen below. This intermediate 9.2 km walk passes through Stugl. This walk offers another, less historic feature. Falein (house shown below) was one of the locations for the 1952 Heidi films. The house is the original from the movies which has a small self-service kiosk – open from the end of May to 31st October,. In regard to Corona Virus updates, please check this website for up-to-date information.

Getting to Stugl: Bus 591 from Bergün – takes 19 minutes with one stop in the village above Bergün. Currently, there are two morning buses – 10.20 am and 12.02 pm. If you are an early riser there are ones that leave at 6.26 am and 7.12 am. For times go to www.sbb.ch.

Bergün and filisur

Bergün

Bergün is a member of the “The Most Beautiful Villages in Switzerland” association, to which a total of 32 villages belong. The association is committed to enhancing the value of our country’s small treasures and making them known nationally and internationally. In order to meet the requirements, a place must have a certain historical, cultural and landscape heritage. In Bergün these are the toboggan run, the Engadine-style houses and the “La Tuer” tower.

Preda to Bergün Sled Run

Last winter my family and I went off to Filisur for the school sport holidays. We wanted to do a bit of skiing and explore the area – mainly by train and car. I found out about the famous sledding track when we first arrived in Switzerland 13 years before. It was something that had been on my top-ten-things-to-do-while-living-in-Switzerland list.

We had seen many Swiss parents with young kids casually swooshing past us when on various walking and sledding trails. It always looked so serene and just plain fun and we thought that it can’t be too difficult, since the parents obviously felt that it was a safe activity for their kids. However, I can give some examples of why we became disillusioned by the whole idea – in fact, downright terrified. First example: When trying it for the first time, I managed to slide out of control on some ice and crash straight into a wooden shed. Second example: My husband took my son on a run, which turned out to be for the more experienced sledder, and crashed into a solid pile of snow, injuring his foot in the process. Third example: My young daughter walked in the door one evening, gripping the steering wheel of her plastic sled, after going on a sledding trip with her gymnastics club. The wheel had detached itself from the rest of the sled when she was halfway down the run… After these experiences, my husband and I would shudder at the sight of a sled. The kids were still ok with it all and we were happy to push them down various slopes each winter without too much hesitation. When it came to hurtling down a hill on a sled, they both seemed to have some special ability to stay uninjured. It was, of course, that thick skin and (mostly) bendy bones that all young children seem to have.

The Preda to Bergün run was different than the others we had tried. For a start, we were able to hire “beginner” sleds which are lower to the ground making them easier to control. Also, the track is nice and wide so anyone who does want to go a bit faster is welcome to.

The Rhaetische Rail train is the only way of getting up to the beginning of the run at Preda which sits at 1,800 metres above sea level. It is quick with no stops in between but also a very special journey through a lovely landscape, helical tunnels and over viaducts that we would be sledding under later.

After doing this train trip a few times and watching from the window as people weaved their way through the beautiful scenery, and under large viaduct bridges in the famous Albula Valley, it seemed like a risk worth taking.

We were nervous at first but after just a short while we realised we could control the sleds without too much risk to life and limb and it was really fun. My husband certainly found it a lot easier. He would speed past us and we wouldn’t see him again until we got to the bottom.

If you fancy something steeper: the «Lauberhorn of sledging runs» from Darlux to Bergün is a sled run for thrill seekers. Darlux can be reached easily by chairlift. A link dedicated to these sled runs can be found here. Only use the wooden Davos-style sleds, these runs are not suitable for plastic sleds.

Filisur

We stayed here as a base for visiting the central Graubünden region and found the small village to be a great place to wander around with the Bahnhof hotel perfect for an evening meal or two. We were in a holiday home with kitchen so would just pop down to the small Coop supermarket for any supplies and do most of the cooking ourselves. The town is spread up a hill so the views at any time of day, are beautiful. You get to look out on both the town and distant mountains. There is plenty of history in among the tiny streets and alley ways here. A good way to learn a bit about how the people of this region used to live (including photos inside these beautiful houses and historical photos) is to have a look at the village tour below:

Note: The info on each house remains in German but, of course, can be translated using your browsers translation button (on google it is next to the favourites star to the far right of the web address).

Also Note: This website is great for inspiration walking in and around the area. Here is another walk to do. On this walk you will get an opportunity to view the single-track six-arched curved limestone Landwasser Railway Viaduct as well as Greifenstein Castle ruins .

UNESCO World Heritage Site

Three major train trips pass through Filisur – the Glacier Express, Bernina Express and UNESCO World Heritage Albula Bernina.

The region’s Rhaetian Railway (RhB) is one of the most spectacular pieces of railway engineering in the world with one of the most picturesque of all routes. UNESCO added the RhB’s Albula/Bernina line to its list of World Heritage Sites in 2008, declaring it of “universal outstanding“ importance.

Worth a Mention . . .

If you are travelling during the summer months and are feeling active, there is a good walk between Filisur and Bergün. For more information follow the link here. This will take you to the Graubünden website. In Fact, it is possible to get route guides for all of Graubunden on this website. Everything from hiking to back country skiing, from tobogganing to snow shoeing. You get the picture…

Getting There and Away: Train is the best! www.sbb.ch. If you are going from Zurich or Chur to St Moritz make sure you enter via Thusis or Tiefencastel. I noticed that there are two route options either the more northern route via Klosters or the Thusis, Tiefencastel, Filisur, Bergün option. There is a map viewing option on the sbb website – just to the right of the timetable.