Discovering the Culture and Traditions of
Swiss Cheese
Engelberg Abbey, La Gruyére, Appenzell & Emmental
There are around 700 different cheese specialities in Switzerland ranging from mild to tangy and from soft to hard. You can see the artisanal skills that are used in making the traditional recipes by visiting the cheese dairies spread across the country.
Some Engelberg Cheese Dairies – big and small
Engelberg Show Cheese Dairy
The Benedictine Monastery in Engelberg is 900 years old. Standing proudly at the edge of the town, it is an imposing building. The Käserei Engelberg (cheese dairy of Engelberg) can be found in this building. Cheese has been made in this region for almost as long as the monastery has been standing so it seems a fitting place to have a show dairy. This is also a good starting point of the Engelberg Alpine Cheese Trail.
A bit about the Monastery
The monastery has other interesting features such as the 9,097 pipes that make up Switzerland’s biggest organ. The hall in the Abbey hosts many classical concerts due to its excellent acoustics and Engelberg Abbey has various works of art by the abbey’s own monks. All this and a cheese dairy! Definitely worth a visit on a rainy day…
Opening Hours & Address:
Engelberg Alpine Cheese Trail – (the small alpine cheese dairies are closed in winter)
Engelberg’s high altitude gives the fresh mountain and alpine milk from the local cows more flavour than the milk from the valley. One way to discover the small cheese dairies that produce the alpine dairy products is to do the Alpine Cheese Trail that runs for 43 km and passes 7 cheese dairies. This trail can obviously be done in sections or by using cable cars to make the ascent or descent easier.
Shortening the Cheese Trail
One way to shorten the walking time is to take the bus from outside the Monastery’s artisan show dairy to Fürenalp where the Engelberg Valley narrows. Then take the Fürenalp cable car up and walk to the Surenen Käserei (2.3 km walk).
Another option is to go by car to the Alpkäserei Stäfeli along from the Fürenalp cable car. There is parking outside this dairy. For more information on the 7 cheese dairies and the trail go to the Engelberg official tourism website’s cheese trail page.
Below is a map showing the complete trail (partly found in the alpine region, above the valley).
The 300 Year Old Alpine Cheese Dairy at Moléson – canton Fribourg
This large cheese-making cottage dates back to the 17th century can be found surrounded by pastures at the foot of the Moléson mountain (2,002 m). Here you can find le Gruyère AOP cheese being made the traditional way.
The process is explained in french and is limited to 50 people, however, you can reserve an interpreter for the demonstration. It is also possible to have an audiovisual presentation outside of the demonstration hours.
This cheese dairy also has a good-sized traditional restaurant that serves local food including Fondue & Alper Macaroni (a traditional dish, slightly similar to macaroni cheese but much better).
Information for Moléson Cheese Dairy
Hours: From May – September, daily from 9:00 – 18:00. Closed over winter.
Demonstrations take place every day at 10 am and last approximately 45 mins (in French).
Contact: [email protected] ph: +41 26 921 10 44 (May – Sep) +41 26 921 85 00 (Oct – Apr). Costs with a demonstration: CHF5 adults, CHF2. children from 6-15 yrs, under 6 free. Check La Moléson tourist office for up-to-date info, or see the Moléson PDF brochure
Getting There
The Moléson Alpine cheese dairy (Fromagerie d’Alpage de Moléson) is close to the village of Gruyéres.
By train: Lausanne – Gruyéres, 1 hour 10 – 50 mins (depending on connection); Bern – Gruyères, 1 hour 45 mins. via Bulle
By bus: from Gruyéres train station, 10 mins
By car from:
Lausanne, 60 km
Bern, 67 km
Geneva, 125 km
La Maison du Gruyère
I visited La Maison du Gruyère a few years ago with my mum. This was the first cheese dairy I had been to and Le Gruyère AOP cheese happens to be a favourite of ours. We both thought the exhibition was an entertaining introduction to the whole process of producing the cheese – from the cows to the plate. I think I still have the fondue recipe booklet bought in the shop somewhere in my kitchen…
This is a modern working dairy below the old town of Gruyères. It has an exhibition that shows the history of Le Gruyère AOP cheese. Cerise (Cherry) the cow has the job of explaining the history of cheese making in the area as well as giving away a few hints to do with the special recipe behind this famous cheese.
The tour lasts 30-45 mins promising sights, smells, touch, sounds and tastes surrounding the production of Le Gruyère AOP. This is a good introduction to the traditions of cheese making in the area. At the end of the tour, you will be craving this tasty cheese.
The making of le Gruyère AOP cheese has a long tradition. The recipe and processes have been handed down through generations of cheese-makers in the region of La Gruyère.
Appenzell Cheese – Traditions and Dairies
The rolling hills and alpine pastures of the Appenzell cantons are dotted with traditional farmhouses and cheese dairies. This region has been making cheese and dairy products the same way for hundreds of years.
The people pride themselves in the old traditions and celebrations that are part of their everyday farming lives.
The Appenzeller® Show Dairy
This modern dairy is considered the shop window to the region’s dairies. It is found in the small town of Stein AR.
The show dairy has a small interactive exhibition, giving an idea of the culture and traditions of the area and, of course, facts and figures about the livestock and cheese-making process.
There is a viewing platform above a working cheese factory, with an audiovisual display to explain the process. Then, it is possible to mix your own herbs to take home, purchase some cheese products and eat at the restaurant.
For more information go to their recently revamped website.
While here
- Wander out into the idyllic countryside to view or visit the traditional dairies that are dotted around the rolling hills and view the magnificent backdrop of the Alpstein mountains. A signpost next to the dairy points the way…
- See the small Volkskunde museum next door that exhibits historical farming equipment and items that showcases the culture and everyday life of people from this region, going back hundreds of years.
- Drive or bus a little further, into the valleys of the Alpstein Massif and visit the Berggasthäuser (mountain guest houses) found here – by hiking, cable car or bus.
Description of the Traditional Livestock Procession
The ascent to the alpine pastures is led by the white, hornless Appenzeller «Gäässe» (goats), tended by children wearing traditional costumes. The goats are followed by the milk cows, heifers and calves, a steer and the horse pulling the «Ledi» (a wooden wagon with two axles), which has room for all the equipment that was once needed in the Alps for making cheese and butter. Dressed in brown, the cattle owner is at the very end of the procession. The Appenzeller mountain dog at his side, known locally as «de Blässe», makes sure that none of the livestock goes astray.
The most important thing about every alpine ascent and descent are the three bell-cows, led by an alpine herdsman wearing a traditional festive costume. On his left shoulder, he carries the «Fahreimer», a milking bucket with an ornately painted bottom, the «Fahreimerbödeli». The three bells harmonise and are the pride of the farming communities on both sides of the Säntis mountain. The most important job of the four alpine herdsmen walking behind the bell-cows is to sing and yodel to the three instruments, which – unlike anywhere else in the world – are played by cows.
How to Get There
Public Transport:
Zürich HB, 1 hour 35-40 mins.
St. Gallen, Bus – 16 mins.
Appenzell, Train – 1 hour (no direct service)
By car from:
Zürich, approx 1 hour – 86 km
St. Gallen and Appenzell, 15 mins.
Emmental Show Diary
This factory has a discovery exhibit that is quite fun – most of the attractions are aimed at young children but are still interesting for adults. The exhibition explains how milk is processed into cheese,(with an entertaining part to demonstrate how the cow produces milk). The last part includes some cheese tasting and an observation deck to watch the cheese making process. There is also a shop and large restaurant.
Other options are:
- Guided tour which includes The Kings Way (need to book)
- Farm tour visiting a typical Swiss Farm (need to book)
- Go for a hike, passing the Grand Tour Lookout for views of the Emmental countryside and architecture.
Other Details:
Open: The Kings Way Tour, shop and restaurant are open every day from 9 am – 5 pm
Address & Website:
Emmentaler Schaukäserei
Schaukäsereistrasse 6
3416 Affoltern im Emmental
Schweiz
emmentaler-schaukaeserei.ch/en
How to Get to – Emmentaler Schaukäserei, Affoltern im Emmental
Public Transport to bus stop Affoltern i. E., Dorf: (sbb.ch)
Lucerne, 1 hour 26 mins.
Bern, 1 hour with 1 change
By car from:
Zürich, 103 km
Lucerne, 55 km (about 1 hour)
Bern, 36 km (about 40 mins.)