The Drei-See-Land (Three-Lake-Region)

Find out about the lakes & canals by clicking on the name above.

The Three Cantons – Fribourg, Neuchâtel & Vaud

Vaud

The three lakes Region

Lake Biel/Bienne Bild von marcelkessler auf Pixabay; Lake Neuchâtel Bild von dgraedel auf Pixabay

Travelling along the waterways

Lake Biel/Bienne belongs to Cantons Bern & Neuchâtel, however, due to the watery connection of the three lakes, I decided to bring them together on one page by demonstrating how each of the rivers, canals and lakes are linked.

• Both the BSG Lake Biel Navigation Company and the LNM – Navigation for the 3 lakes are the two main boat companies that offer trips on all three lakes plus the connecting canals and rivers.
  • Apart from Neuchâtel and Murten, the boats stop at other pretty villages such as Twann on Lake Biel for wine & walks and the impressive Twannbach Gorge (see below), – recommend Estavayer le Lac on Lake Neuchâtel’s southern side.
• The BSG Lake Biel navigation company organises culinary, musical and cultural theme trips.
• Bicycle transport is free on Lake Murten and Lake Neuchâtel (but not on Lake Biel).

You will find the boat timetables here.

Lake Murten —- lake neuchâtel —- lake Biel/Bienne

Murtensee

A bit of history: In 1476 Murten was the location of the war between the Swiss Confederates and the Burgundians, led by Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy. This is a famous date because – the Swiss won! This enabled them to preserve their independence. Charles possessed a patchwork empire stretching from the North Sea to the Mediterranean. His first defeat was March 1476 in Grandson (on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel) where he was severely looted, then, in April he was chased off during a surprise attack at Murten leading to his demise during his third battle in Nancy, France. A very old, famous saying describes his losses. “In Grandson, he lost his goods – in Murten, he lost his courage and in Nancy, he lost his blood.” Oh dear, what a legacy… A famous panorama painting was created in 1893. This link gives more information.

Murten’s Historical Town Centre & Lake

Good to Know: The town opens out to an attractive lakefront area which is set up with ice-cream stalls, mini-golf, sunbathing lawns, swimming pool, lake swimming, boating and watersports – so is generally a nice spot for cooling off and relaxing.

The Murten Light Festival

Lake Murten’s surrounding countryside

Vully Vineyards

Mount Vully is just north of Lake Murten. The southern slopes are full of vineyards with several French-speaking villages spread out, close to the lake. There are themed walks, biking and cycling routes and lovely terraced restaurants with stunning views over the lake, to the Alps.

Avenches

Lovely small town to the west of the lake with an important Roman site, including Amphitheater. See here for more information.

Broye Canal between Lake Murten & Lake Neuchâtel

The Broye Canal connects the lakes of Neuchâtel and Murten. The Rotary Bridge, approximately halfway along the canal is used by pedestrians, cyclists and rollerbladers.

This 250m long wooden arch which symbolizes “the röstigraben“, – the invisible border of French and German-speaking Switzerland, is one of the centerpieces of an Expo.02 route reserved for non-motorized traffic.

Lake Neuchâtel

Lake Neuchâtel is the largest lake in Switzerland which is entirely swiss and is part of 4 cantonal borders – Vaud, Fribourg, Neuchâtel & Bern. It is in the shadow of the Jura mountains and has situated mainly within the french-speaking borders.

Some special spots around the lake

Neuchâtel’s harbours and beaches

Close to Neuchâtel’s city centre is the lakeside area of Les Jeunes-Rives which offers water sports and a place to swim. From here it is a short walk to Au Quai du Port with the LNM Navigation ticket office for cruises on the lake, and Quai Osterwald. These harbours have lively cafés and restaurants, that buzz with activity in summer.

The lake shore at Pointe du Grain, west of Neuchâtel, has the best swimming reputation in the area. Visitors compare it to Thailand’s beaches (with pebbles). Grain Point is quite remote and wild but still offers a Buvette (kiosk) with benches and a good selection of food and drink. Check the link for opening times and food. Note: They only accept cash (8/22). Driving from Neuchâtel takes around 15 mins, public transport will take you only so far – to the Bevaix, then a 30-minute walk. There is a small ferry terminal about 15 mins. walk away which connects Bevaix and Neuchâtel (approx. 1 hour).

Grande Cariçaie Nature Reserve – Beaches and Wildlife Walk

Yvonand on the southwest of the lake has some decent sandy beaches. The large Plage des Pins is right next door to Camping du la Menthue, and the smaller, often less crowded Plage de Goncerut is about 10 mins walk away. It is possible to swim, SUP, or use small paddle boats at both of these beaches.

Location, location, location

One of the wonderful things about these beaches is their location. They are nestled within Switzerland’s largest lakeside wetland – the Grande Cariçaie Nature Reserve. Eight local nature reserves are linked together to make up the Grande Cariçaie which is home to over 10,000 animal species and 800 plant species. This is a stunning place to visit for a swim or walk with its lush lakeside flora and fauna – full of wildlife. There are obvious restrictions to where you can swim and paddle – just follow the advise of the signs that are found around the walkways and entrances to beaches.

A regional walking trail passes throughthe 8 nature reserves along the southern shore. The circular walk Chemin de la Grande Cariçaie (265) begins and ends at the historical town – Estavayer-le-Lac. Swiss Mobility gives a detailed description of the area and this walk.

Boat Trips and Cruises on Lake Neuchâtel

The company, LMN – Navigation sur les Trois-Lacs, has been running since 1872 with 7 ships available for cruising around the three lakes. For more information about boat trips and special cruises go to www.lnm.ch.

For more information on cruising around Switzerland on some stunning and well-preserved historical gems see my post on the Swiss Belle Epoque Paddle Steamers. Here you will also find information on the unique three-lake steamer called DS Neuchâtel.

Zihlkanal/ Canal de la Thielle between lakes Neuchâtel & Biel/Bienne

Neuchâtel & Biel/Bienne are linked by this approximately 8.5 km long canal. The original bed of the Zihl is still partially preserved.

Lake Biel/Bienne

The Twannbach Gorge

The Twannbach flows through an almost untouched romantic gorge landscape with cascades and pools from Lamboing village to Twann. The rock faces, formed over millions of years, tower above the gorge and wooden footbridges cross the thundering water. 

Well-marked hiking trails from Magglingen (3 hours) and Prêles – mountain station of the Vinifuni funicular (1 1/2 hours) – pass through meadows and forests down into the gorge. This leads to the well-known wine-growing village of Twann, with views across Lake Biel to the Alps. This is a great place to rest with a glass of local wine.

Aare River between Solothurn and Lake Biel/Bienne

According to The j3l.ch – the three-lake-land official tourism website, the Aare river voyage has been picked by “Connoisseurs” as Switzerland’s loveliest boat excursion. This scenic 3-hour trip offers:

• Cruises on the Aare between Solothurn & Lake Biel/Bienne – Solothurn is a lovely historical town worth a visit.
• It is possible to eat on the boat.
• A chance to stop at a stork colony along the way.

The Cantons

A bit about Canton Neuchâtel

Set in the foothills of the majestic Jura Mountains, the region of Neuchâtel offers visitors a combination of medieval architecture, world-famous wine, alpine scenery and crystal clear lakes. It is one of 6 French speaking cantons in Switzerland and has a population of over 176,000.

Neuchatel Town

The 15th-Century Neuchâtel castle is on a hill at the heart of the Old Town. The town has a real french vibe about it with french-style architecture, cafes and markets. The large pedestrian area is close to the lakeside parks, gardens and walkways. There are also vineyards close by and plenty of lakeside beaches with facilities for swimming, boarding or for boat trips.

Things to do in Neuchâtel Town

• 15-Century  castle high above the old town.
• Quaint cobbled streets and numerous cafés within a large pedestrian area.
• Festivals throughout the year to enjoy.
  • Approximately 40,000 people attend the Wine Harvest Festival in September. It lasts for three days and its festivities close down the entire city!
  • The Buskers Festival is in August lasts for five days and is a wonderful event for families.
  • Open air Festi’Neuch music festival takes place on the lakeside with music stands and food tents.
• Swimming at Pointe du Grain. This section of the lake’s shore has the best swimming reputation. Visitors compare it to beach shores of Thailand.

Castle: Information

The Castle is home to the cantonal Government but it is still possible to do a tour including a climb up the prison tower (120 steps). Tours: The tours leave on the hour from 2pm-5pm in front of the castle (This porch is also a good place for a view of Neuchâtel and the lake) and take 45 mins to 1 hour (with tower visit). The schedule and opening times differ wildly depending on time of year. Best place to get information is www.ne.ch.

Leisure and day trips in and around Neuchâtel

• Château de Grandson is an impressive medieval castle with a museum and guided tours.
• Explore the watch valley and learn about the origins of watchmaking at the watchmaking museums.
• Visit a unique open-air museum. Situated In the hills north of Neuchâtel is the town of Le Locle. Artists from around the world have been using this town’s buildings and spaces as a canvas to display their artwork. Some on a massive scale. 
• Sample the local wines at the castle and wine-making museum, Chateau de Boudry and the Caves de Chambleau in Colombier. 
•  Grand Hotel des Bains in Yverdon les bains – treat yourself to a wellness break at this famous thermal baths and wellness centre. Another option is Le Bains de la Gruyere, in the small, typically Swiss town of Charmey, canton Fribourg.
• The Jaquet-Droz Automata at the Neuchâtel Museum of Art & History – see below for more information about this amazing exhibition.

The Jaquet-Droz Automata

Found in the Neuchâtel Museum of Art and History, the famous Jaquet-Droz Automata have fascinated me for a while. I saw a BBC video on the Writer, and was amazed at the incredible workmanship and detail that had been put into this mechanical doll.

These three famous automata – the Writer, the Draughtsman and the Musician – were fashioned at La Chaux-de-Fonds between 1768 and 1774 by a trio of accomplished watchmakers: Pierre Jaquet-Droz, his son Henri-Louis, and Jean-Frédéric Leschot. After travelling throughout Europe, they were gifted to the City of Neuchâtel on 1 May 1909. Ever since then, they have been the Museum’s flagship exhibit.

Out & about in Canton Vaud

Narcisses flowers in May: Image by:Maude Rion

Towns and areas worth visiting, from west to east are:

• Morges with Vufflen’s 15 Century Castle
• Lutry
• Cully
• Vevey
• Montreux
• Puidoix – “Train des Vignes” from Vevey to Puidoux – a stunning train ride through the Lavaux vineyard terraces.

Lavaux Region’s Vineyard Terraces – UNESCO World Heritage Site

Vineyards at Lavaux Image by: Gregoire Chappuis_gc

Originally created in the 11th century by monks, the vineyard terraces spread out on the steep slopes above Lake Geneva still have their original terraces and stone walls.

Known as the Lavaux vineyards, the UNESCO vineyard terraces are found between Lausanne and Montreux and are home to 14 unspoiled villages. Residents of this area have been working together in harmony with the landscape for hundreds of years.

The vineyards benefit from the “three suns” – the sun itself, the sun’s rays reflected by the lake and the warmth stored in the walls of the vineyards.

How to see the vineyards and villages

There is a large network of walking and biking trails through the vineyards. For more information on this region, and the trails through the vineyards and villages go to my post on Switzerland’s UNESCO World Heritage Site – Lavaux Vineyard Terraces.

Getting to Vaud – including Lake Geneva Towns and the Montreux Rivera

This is worth its own section because of some of the special train journeys

Canton Fribourg/Freiburg – The region of Gruyère

Jogne Gorge Photo by: 148568043 © Michalludwiczak – Dreamstime.com

Worth seeing in Canton Fribourg . .

• Les Bains de la Gruyère Thermal Baths, Charmey – with views of the alp’s foothills and mountains.
• Les Gorges de la Jogne – narrow gorge with limestone rock formations and lush green surroundings. The river Jaun swirls through this gorge and can be viewed from the walkways, bridges and tunnels in the rock.
• La Maison Callier Chocolate Factory in Broc, close to Gruyères – Pretty white-washed chocolate factory with a detailed exhibition, an interesting past and plenty of chocolate to sample.
• The Les Grands Chemins hike (see below) with views of Gruyeres Castle and an option to walk around the foot of the castle walls.
• Gruyères old town – picture-postcard pretty – making this town very popular with visitors. Many tourists also visit the Le Gruyère AOP cheese factory that is directly below the town – see my suggestion below for a more off-the-beaten track option.

Chemin du Gruyère Hike

The Alpine Cheese Dairy at Moléson

This large cheese-making cottage dates back to the 17th century. Here you can find Gruyère cheese being made the traditional way.

The process is explained in french and is limited to 50 people. You can reserve an interpreter for the demonstration. It is possible to have an audiovisual presentation outside of the demonstration hours.

This cheese dairy also has a good-sized traditional restaurant that serves local food including Fondue & Alper Macaroni.

Acknowledgements:

Photo of Rivaz – looking towards Lake Geneva by Armand Khoury on Unsplash