Graubünden’s Hidden Lakes, Rivers and Gorges
Bild von Pat Mueller auf Pixabay
Ruinaulta gorge and the Vorderrhein
The Rhein splits just west of Chur into two upper branches, encompassing the whole southwestern area of Graubünden. The Vorderrhein winds its way along the Ruinaulta, a canyon-like gorge with dramatic white limestone cliffs scattered with forests and ice-blue water. This gorge is known as the Grand Canyon of Switzerland and is an impressive sight. It is part of the long, wide Surselva Valley. The Via Principala is a 60km road, which for the most part, follows the river. This road takes you to the Oberalppass. There is a switchback section here that folds in on itself several times before arriving at the top of the pass and passing into Canton Uri.
Here, you come across Tomasee (Lai de Tuma); an alpine lake considered to be the source of the Rhein (Rhein Quelle). It is possible to hike up to the lake before making the trip up the switchback road.
On the north side, The Surselva Valley is cut off by the Central Swiss Alps and to the south, several valleys spreading out like fingers, with one of the most eastern valleys containing the Hinterrhein. These valleys stretch south to the Ticino.
Interesting Fact …During the ice age the Valley of Surselva was completely covered by a huge glacier that stretched right down the Rhein valley, all the way to Lake Constance.
Some facts and figures above from Lonely Planet Walking in Switzerland pg 301, 2nd edition pub. 2001.
Ruinalta
A monument to Nature, the Rheinschlucht (Rhein Gorge) winds between Ilanz and Reichenau past 350 metre high white cliff walls.
Activities
hiking
A dense network of hiking trails and a wide variety of hiking tours are available. Many of the routes are mountain hikes, therefore the appropriate equipment is recommended. Take note of the breeding season for various birds. Some areas should be avoided during this time. There are signs to advise.
Ruinaulta Image by Pat Mueller from Pixabay
Biking
Over 300 kilometres of marked mountain bike routes of all levels are available.
E-Bikers have the possibility to use the recharging stations in and around the gorge free of charge. (charging cables are available for Yamaha, Bosch and Brose). For anyone without bikes, it is possible to rent them in Bonaduz, Flims, Laax and Ilanz. See the link here for more information.
canoeing & Rafting
The route between Ilanz and Reichenau is one of the most fascinating routes in Europe for Canoes, Kayaks and River rafting. Between these towns, there are various place to embark and disembark as well as marked rest areas. Full and half-day trips can be done with experienced guides and can be booked through the tourist information centre in Flims Laax Falera, at the Ilanz train station or direct with the providers. There are some difficult patches to negotiate so be clear what you are dealing with and what level you need to be before entering the water.
Rail Journey
If the above options seem too adventurous for you, or you feel more like observing rather than entering the gorge, the Rhaetian Railway offers spectacular views. This railway line travels through the middle of the Ruinaulta Gorge. The world-famous “Glacier Express” panorama train also crosses the gorge on its route between Chur and Zermatt. Go to the websites below for further information:
Viewing Platforms
You can find a number of viewing platforms around the gorge, presenting unique views of the natural phenomenon. (More information can be found on the Flims Laax website). Five reassuringly well-built platforms are:
Il Spur – offers a 180-degree view of the gorge. It is only accessible by foot. From Flims Waldhaus, you can reach the viewing platform in around 45 minutes on a hiking trail. It is located just a few minutes from Restaurant Conn and is accessible all year round.
South side of the Gorge in an area called Tectonic Arena Sardona; a UNESCO WORLD Site
Zault – This one offers breathtaking views into the depths of the gorge and is accessible from the hiking trail or via Bondaduz town. The viewing platform is open from March to November.
Alix – You can take the hiking trail from the village of Valendas to reach the Alix viewing platform.
Islabord – From the modestly designed Islabord balconies, you can enjoy unique views to the north and over the Arena. You can reach Islabord by foot from Versam. I have heard that the road trip to this platform is amazing. The viewing platform is open from May to October.
Wackenau – This viewing platform is located at the end of the Rhine gorge. It is named after the castle ruin situated above it. You can reach it from Trin or Bonaduz train stations. The viewing platform is open from May to October.
Maps and Further Information for the whole Flims, Laax Falera area can be found on their website: https://www.flimslaax.com/en
Gorges of the Hinterrhein
Viamala Gorge and the Rofflaschluct
Viamala-Schlucht (gorge) – Up to 300-metre high rockfaces enclose the raging water of the Hinterrhein with stone bridges spanning the top. Apart from the natural beauty, this gorge also holds historical significance including its use by the Romans, who passed through here 2000 years ago.
Back in 1903 the tourist association was responsible for the building of 359 steps down to the river. An information board directly beside the Wildener-Brücke (Wildener Bridge built in 1739) explains the gorge’s history. There are many activities and discoveries to be made such as guided tours and a combined Post Bus trip (between Thusis and Zillis) with walking trails.
OPENING HOURS: Viamala Schlucht steps, walkway and visitor’s centre, 29th March-30th April, 1st Oct-1st Nov; daily 9am-6pm. Closed from November to March. There is an entry charge see the Viamala Schlucht website for more information. ALL FURTHER INFORMATION on tours (currently take place only on Thursdays), bus trips, etc can be found under www.viamala.ch. Getting There: Public transport (stop Zillis, Viamala-Schlucht). check out www.sbb.ch for timetable.
Rofflaschlucht – is an impressive gorge near the small village of Andeer. The Roffla gorge has a 300 meter-long rock gallery and a path that leads to a majestic waterfall. This gorge also offers a large guesthouse. The Gasthaus Rofflaschlucht has a very good website offered in English with information on the history of the gorge.
OPENING HOURS: Rofflaschlucht, April, Thursday-Monday 9am-6pm, 1st May-4th Nov. daily 9am-7pm. There is a small charge to see the gallery and walkway. There is also a museum. Entry is free of charge to guests of the Hotel. Getting There: Several Postbuses pass by the stop directly across from the entry daily. see sbb.ch for more details.
Some of Graubundens many special lakes to walk around, picnic beside or dip your toes into. . .
There are many beautiful lakes worth visiting in this region including alpine lakes, lakes in valleys, on a plateau, or at the top of a pass. You will see them dotted around hiking maps or in walking books. Many are close to roads but, for me, the best ones are the ones you encounter on a hike or bike ride… They are the ones that are protected from the outside world, and can quietly become our own natural paradise. They are not there for our entertainment. We should feel privileged to be able to visit, to swim in, or picnic around but we then must leave without a trace, ready for the next visitor to find their piece of paradise.
Caumasee
Sitting deep in a thick forest, on a wide ledge, which drops down to the Ruinaulta Gorge, you will find a peaceful turquoise lake complete with a 3-meter diving tower and an open restaurant with terrace. For kids, a paddling pool and play area are at one end of the lake. There is a walk around the lake with numerous spots for picnicking (grilling is not allowed around the lakeshore). For more information on the different ways to get there and opening times etc. see the website here.
Lai da Palpuogna
This Lake is nestled in Parc Ela in the Albula Valley. close to the Albula pass. Lai da Palpuogna was recently voted as the most beautiful spot in Switzerland. The water’s colour and surrounding countryside are definitely idyllic. I would recommend taking the train as the few parking spaces near the lake fill up quickly. The walk from the Preda train stop to the lake is an easy 1.7 km and easy to negotiate. I also recommend this short trail in winter – we walked with snowshoes rented from Preda – the lake was well hidden under ice and snow and the surrounding forests were covered in thick snow – lovely.
If you want a bit more of a challenge try the King’s Stage walk below (not a winter walk):
Photo by Pascal Debrunner on Unsplash
Lai de Tuma (Tomasee in German)
The Lai de Tuma s located in a nature reserve at the foot of Piz Badus. At 2344 m above sea level it is the highest point in the Surselva region. This is considered the source of the Rhein River. From here it flows through the Surselva region, passing through the impressive Ruinaulta Gorge before joining up with the Hinterrhein in Reichenau
The Walk from Oberalppass:
This is a long, uphill walk on a narrow, rocky trail with some switch backs – Is a popular spot for hikers but doesnt get over crowded.
Bild von Jörg Vieli auf Pixabay
Lai Da Vons
This mountain lake lies on a high plateau between Andeer and Sufers at an altitude of 1991 metres above sea level.
In Summer
A wonderful way to enjoy this isolated lake is at sunset with a picnic. It can be reached by foot or by bike.
Getting There: Go to Naturpark Beverin/Wanderbus website which has timetables and locations for Lai da Vons – this bus doesn’t travel daily. It leaves from Sufers (Postauto bus stop). There are hikes up from Sufers which is at 1430m and Lai Da Vons is 1991m. A direct walk is about a 3 km ascent and will take approx. 1 hour 30 mins.
Lai Da Vons, looking southwest, Picture by: Adrian Michael, CC BY 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
