Cantons Schaffhausen & Thurgau
Cantons Schaffhausen and Thurgau border each other, sharing the Rhein river and the lush hilly landscape from Untersee to Schaffhausen. Germany’s border adds to the complicated squiggle of lines on the map. Sometimes you really have to look before you drive as you may need to have your passport ready for the border check (Zoll).
In fact, by driving along the northern bank of the Rhein from Schaffhausen to Diessenhofen (small historical town with a covered bridge) you will cross the border between Germany and Switzerland four times – but have only driven 9 km. Of course, it is simpler to drive on the southern bank of the Rhein for this trip. It is a similar distance, with no need to think about producing your passport.
Most of the sites I have included on this page are centered around the Rhein and countryside shared by both cantons, so for this reason it makes sense to have one page for both.
Stein am Rhein’s Attractive and Historic Buildings
The old town is a treat for the eyes. Historical etches and paintings cover the buildings in the main square of the town. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating in the main square to enjoy these facades while having an ice cream Sunday, lunch, or drink.
To get away from the crowds, you can check out the little takeaway stands, gelateria, creperie, hot dog stand, or bakeries on or around street corners and then wander down to the Stein am Rhein’s new riverside area. There is also a pathway that runs along the Rhein offering a lovely park for children, green spaces and places to dip your toes in the water.
The building housing the Information Centre which is in the north-east corner of the main square, doubles as a small museum of the old hospital which used to be on the site of this beautifully restored building.
Note: If museums are of interest to you, the St. Georgen Monastery Museum, housed in a former Benedictine Abbey on the right side of the bridge – town side – is “one of the best-preserved monastery complexes in Switzerland” according to Stein am Rhein’s tourism website. You can see the former convent, abbeys houses and the gardens (on the edge of the Rhein).
Getting There from Winterthur with public transport: Train: S29 from Winterthur – 40 mins, no change; Zurich HB – 1 hr 7 mins – 1 change in either Winterthur or Schaffhausen.
Getting There from Winterthur by car: Is a lovely drive, through rolling hills, farmland, forests and pretty villages. Journey Time: 30-40 mins.
Around Stein am Rhein in canton Schaffhausen & Thurgau . . .
Exploring Stein am Rhein’s history from all angles – a walking tour – see below for the map
This walk starts about 5 minutes from the train station, passing along the southern side of the Rhein, where there are Roman ruins and archaeological findings of a prehistoric past, as well as the island of Werd with its Franciscan Convent.
The walk then passes over the river and through the town, up to the vineyards until reaching the Hohenklingen Castle.
For the warmer months, there are various grill possibilities with views near the castle.
Included on this walk are options to bathe in the Rhein before heading back to the town for large ice cream.
See the ‘Learn More’ link and below for details
Roman fort Tasgetium
The Burg church as well as the ruins of the Tasgetium Roman fort are in an area called “Vor der Brugg” (before the bridge). This area is up a small steep slope to the right of the Rhein bridge (south side) and is often unnoticed by visitors, who are in a hurry to cross the bridge to view the beautiful medieval town centre.
The Burg church was first mentioned in 799. It can be recognised by the baroque onion-shaped roof that sits on top of a small tower and is located in the middle of the Roman fort Tasgetium; built in the 3rd century. The fort was built as a result of the Alemannic invasions. Excavations made it clear that Christian services have been celebrated in the former Roman fort for more than 1400 years.
Ruins of Roman Fort Tasgetium – walls, stairs and archways
Werd Island, Eschenz
Artifacts and Evidence of Prehistoric and Medieval life
The small Rhine island at the lower foot of Lake Constance has an important past. The remains of a settlement and pile dwellings from the Neolithic and late bronze age were excavated here in the 1930s. It is one of the sites in Canton Thurgau that have been selected for the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Prehistoric Pile Dwellings in the Alps” recognition. The Romans also had a large settlement here, the largest so-called civil settlement in the canton of Thurgau.
Roman, prehistoric and medieval artifacts from this area are on display in the local museum in Eschenz.. The address is Unterdorfstrasse 14, Eschenz. It is located a couple of streets back from the bridge to Werd Island. For further information go to www.museum-eschenz.ch (German). The Museum of Archeology in the town of Frauenfeld also has a good selection of items.
The Island is owned by the Benedictine Einsiedeln Abbey (impressive Abbey in Canton Schwyz) but is leased by the Franciscans who live in a house attached to the chapel.
You will find info panels on the bridge explaining how they ended up living there and a request to all visitors to respect their home and the sacred island by staying quiet to preserve the atmosphere. They also have weekly services and traditions – these are advised on the panels. (they are written in German).
Through the vineyards to the castle overlooking Stein am Rhein
This small hike offers:
- Views of the town and river landscape
- A forested walk
- Vineyards walk
- Burg Hohenklingen grounds and grill spots
- Side trips to sandstone caves and river swimming spot
Possible diversion:
The hike up to castle Hohenklingen has plenty of stairs. However, it is possible to go left onto Zwinglistrasse and following it around the corner, and then right into a dip in the forest.
This leads to a very interesting, and slightly unsettling walk through a kind of ditch in the forest. When I did this walk, part of my brain was saying danger! Turn back! Then I noticed a couple of signs about foxes and badgers designed for children. I decided to just imagine I was a child again, ready to discover the secrets of the forest. This is only a small section of the walk and, if you don’t mind crawling under and over fallen logs and possibly sharing the trail with foxes, it is quite fun.
Hohenklingen Castle has a courtyard area and walkway where you get a unique view of the town and river. There is a fine-dining restaurant within the castle but no museum.
Several grill spots are above the castle parking in a clearing in the forest.
Then a much easy trip back down the stairs to the newly renovated waterfront. Is now possible to walk right (west) along the Rhein which is mostly shaded by trees towards Strandbad Niderfeld (river swimming area).
Side Trips and Stage 2 of the Via Rhenana (Upper Rhein Route)
Via Rhenana from Stein am Rhein to Steckborn
This hike starts from the Rhein Bridge to Stein am Rhein, then a visit to the Roman Fort Tasgetium & Werd Island (both above).
This hike is partly along the Rhein with swimming possibilities, small towns, views and sites of historical significance – and public transport links.
Countryside and Towns in Thurgau
Towns
Arbon
Arbon thrived in the 17th century due to the production of linen. Then came the Saurer factory, a producer of motors and special machinery for embroidery, again bringing prosperity to the town from the middle of the 19th century on. However, much to the sadness of the locals, this factory was discontinued in the 1980s. There is a museum in Arbon honouring its legacy.
Attractions
The best features of this town are its attractive historical centre, the lakeside park and the lakeshore area, which is on the edge of Bodensee (Lake Constance). It is also possible to swim in the lake. Schwimmbad Arbon (also with large outdoor pools) is in the park. Strandbad Buchhorn and Strandbad Wiederhorn are further north.
Strandbad Wiederhorn offers the following:
- 100m long beach on the shores of Lake Constance
- Large sunbathing lawn
- Children’s pool with shade
- Playground
- Beach volleyball court
- Raft & long jetty
- BBQ area
Boats, Pedalo and Stand-up-Paddle rental
Renting a SUP can be done from PLANeT ONE cafe/entertainment venue, in the old town. Bookings and information can easily been done online or in-person at Arbon SUP, Schlossgasse 4.
Boats and Pedalos (with slides) can be rented at the harbour with Nautic Corner.
Cycling Path
There are paths through the park area that are popular with cyclists and inline skaters. These are part of Stage 5 of the official Rhein Route (No. 2) cycling path which runs alongside Lake Constance.
Wetlands Area
The cycling path runs alongside a wetland area on the outskirts of Arbon town, which is considered to be of international importance.
Countryside
GabrielleMerk, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The countryside around Bodensee (Lake Constance) shows its most beautiful side during the blooming season, known as “Bluescht time”. This season is from April to May when the flower buds of the huge fruit trees open. It is possible to have a closer look at these extensive orchards by hiking or biking on the themed routes that run through the countryside. Follow this link for an example hiking trail called Bluescht Velo Tour Thurgau.
The views from the rolling hills above Lake Constance are another good reason to venture out to the countryside of Thurgau. From here you get a majestic view of the Alps, with Säntis as the focal point within the Alpstein Massif in canton Appenzell.
While in the neighborhood, it is worth visiting:
The beautiful gardens and surrounding countryside of the Arenenberg Castle with Napoleon Museum in Salenstein.
Stop at the natural lakes of Nussbaumersee and Hüttwilersee that sit side by side in the countryside near Frauenfeld. There are various bathing areas, some with facilities and some simply have a grassed area for sunbathing and grilling (pictured above).
Getting There: From Winterthur via the A1 direction St Gallen, then exit 73, direction Frauenfeld West. Approx. 20 mins – 20 km.
Lakes facilities: Hüttwilersee has a kiosk, changing facilities and benches; Nussbaumersee has bathing areas with no facilities or kiosk. There are basic toilets with a coin slot. Both offer parking.
In Thurgau: The right place at the right time of year:
- Spring tip:
- take a cycling trip through the blossoming fruit trees.
- Summer tip:
- bike, bath and boat alongside Lake Constance or lakes in the area.
- Autumn tip:
- visit the interactive Mosterei Möhl museum showing the history and present day production of cider and apple/pear juice.
- Winter tip:
- take a guided tour of the Napoleon Museum in nearby Salenstein.
Townhall door Image by Markus Baumeler from Pixabay; Old Bridge over the river Thur in Bischofszell; Image by ThurgauJag9889, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons; Lake Constance from Arbon; Photo by Nadine Marfurt on Unsplash.