Canton Bern
Dramatic mountains, cliff faces and deep valleys exist alongside startling green rolling hills and peaceful villages where charming Inns and farming hamlets invite you to linger and discover.
Lauterbrunnen Photo by patrick-robert-doyle-aIc96qrO4iE-unsplash; Oeschinensee Photo by Manuel Boxler on Unsplash; Bern Ztlogge Clock Tower Photo by andreas-fischinger-7c5x008Lh90-unsplash.jpg
Old Town Bern – The old town of Bern has the longest covered shopping arcades in Europe. The solid line of mansions looks down on the Aare river which is full of boating possibilities. Its banks are home to the famous Bern Bears in an impressive natural environment – a much-needed change from the traditional Bear Pits.
Emmental – The Emmental countryside is covered in rolling green hills, with impressive farmhouses, dotted throughout. Their huge overhanging roofs with elegantly carved gables and neat rows of windows, lined with flowers are a special part of the community and the traditions of the region.
The countryside offers plenty of chances to just wander. You will discover secret valleys and gorges, Gasthöfe (country Inns) with massive cowbells hanging on doors as well as uniquely dressed farmers speaking a soft, strange language. And, now and then a Käserei (cheese factory) which is what this area is famous for but by no means the only reason to come here.
Bernese Oberland mountains plunge down into valleys carved out by retreating glaciers, waterfalls roar down-solid cliffs and deep blue-green water glistens in the alpine lakes. This area is often the reason why people flock to Switzerland. There is definitely jaw-dropping scenery here (which can add to the jaw-dropping prices) but there is also plenty of opportunities to try new things and, if you are willing to do a bit of exploring to find a few hidden corners, away from the tour groups.
Oescheninsee – Draws you in like a magnet. Discover snow-shoeing, skiing and winter walking around the lake (also, on the lake – if it is cold enough), using Kandersteg as a starting point.
Oeschinensee
There is plenty to do in and around this stunning Lake. See below for details.
Getting Here:
Public Transport: Hourly train from Interlaken to Kandersteg – takes 1 hr 10 mins, changing at Spiez.
Car: From Interlaken, it takes about 45-50 mins, or 35 mins from Spiez, travelling down the Kandertal (Kander Valley) via Frutigen to Kandersteg. Drive through the town centre to the cable car Kandersteg-Oeschinensee. Parking: at the cable car station.
After about 30 minutes walk you will reach Lake Oeschinen from the top of the cable car.
Status of Pass & Gondolas:
See the website for operating times, timetable and prices – Oeschinensee gondola. You can buy tickets online.
In winter you can enjoy a leisurely descent by toboggan
from the cable car mountain station to the lake.
What is available in the warmer months:
- variety of hikes – around the lake, in the Gasterntal Valley & up the Gemmi Pass
- rent a row boat
- tobogganing – summer & winter
- lake-side picnic or grill
- sit on a mountain inn’s terrace with stunning lake & mountain views
- gondola ride
- fish
For more information about the area including my hike through the Gemmi Pass, go to my Bernese Oberland page.
Hiking to Oeschinensee
Distance:
4.4 km
Duration:
1.5 hrs with breaks
Ascent/Descent:
110 m/109m
Best Time of Year:
June – Oct (for this particular hike)
Difficulty:
Easy, need to be sure-footed with proper hiking boots).
Gondola summer:
For up-to-date info on the timetable, prices and buying tickets online go here.
This walk is a good way to get to know the lake and what it has to offer – this is also a good starting trail for further hikes and mountain trails around the lake.
I did this one at the end of summer when the weather was changeable. I didn’t mind as I could see the lake views changing once the clouds came rolling in – always very impressive.
I walked from Kandersteg train station to the cable car (only about 10 mins away). The cable car (Bergbahnen Kandersteg) trip offers amazing views but you don’t get to see the lake until later on during the walk. It is well hidden.
When walking through the forest, keep to the lower paths – there are others that branch off and rise up steeply. I know because I went the wrong way a couple of times until I realised that you need to stick to the paths going downwards. Also, watch out for the roots and stones on the path!
When I did it there was a lot of tripping and retracing my steps… It is easier than I make it sound – I was just in a hurry to get to the lake.
See below for my map of the hike.
During winter there is no walking path from Kandersteg to Oechinensee
From Kandersteg train station it is an easy walk to the valley gondola station (20 min).
The ride on the gondola gives beautiful views of Kandersteg and the surrounding mountains of the Bernese Oberland. From the mountain station, you hike through snowy winter scenery to Lake Oeschinen.
The Berghotel Oeschinensee is your starting point for three different hiking trails or the winter hiking trail on the lake:
– Hiking trail to the ice tower, left lakeshore, 30 minutes
– Fründen loop, right lakeshore, 30 minutes
– Ice Walk – winter hiking trail on the frozen lake, short loop (30 min) & long loop (90 min)
Tip: Arrive by RegioExpress Lötschberger of the BLS.
Ideas for visiting the historical old town of Bern
The old city centre of Bern has been classed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The city of Bern was built in the 12th Century on a hillside surrounded by the Aare River. The town was developed with a special design made up of long rows of buildings, shaped to fit into the curve of the river. 15th-century arcades and 16th-century fountains were added and, in the 18th Century, most of the medieval centre was restored but, luckily, it has retained its original character which includes the many elegant arches that can be found throughout.
Map from 1864
Zytglogge (Clock Tower)
This iconic clock tower has been around for centuries and has had many uses, including a prison.
Every hour, on the hour, there is a display of dancing bears, a court jester and a rooster doing their thing on the outside of the clock tower.
The inside isn’t open for individual visits but it’s possible to do a 1-hour tour inside to see the inner workings and learn about its past. The public tours don’t run daily and are limited to once a week in winter, so it pays to check out the website and book before going. Good to Know: There are 130 steps to the top but you are rewarded with a view of Bern’s old town, and the Alps (weather permitting).
Arcades and Arches
The old town of Bern has the longest covered shopping arcade in Europe which includes many covered or enclosed arcades in the side streets and alleyways.
This is a good place to visit for a rainy day shopping spree with plenty of quirky, boutique and specialty shops to get lost in. Often cafes and restaurants offer seating in the arcade area – some include blankets on the chairs in the winter.
Waisenhausplatz Market
Waisenhausplatz is a few minutes walk from the train station, in the old town. In 2018 this busy street was completely transformed into a large pedestrian space. During the summer of 2018, the city’s urban greenery and civil engineering department decided to add various elements to the square as part of a trial project. Outdoor furniture, plants, a double-decker terrace, a stage and outdoor games were added. The idea came from a custom used in Mexican cities called Zócalo where the locals get together in large squares around the city to socialise, play games, eat, drink, dance and learn new skills.
The project was well received and the plan was to continue using the Plaza in this way each summer.
In the colder months, you will find flea markets and the Christmas market in this space. The above market was set up in November with plenty of woolly hats and gloves for sale – and of course, some hammocks…
Bernese Flea Markets
Bern has a great selection of urban Flea Markets – both inside halls, in arcades and out on the streets. They offer vintage gear, modern, clothes, culinary treats, seasonal clothing – so the normal stuff for a flea market. For more information go to the Bern Tourism page dedicated to both the buyers and the sellers.
Good to know: Bears have been kept in Bern since 1513. The banks of the Aare River have been their home since 1857 when they were moved from the city to Bear Pits. Lucky for the bears, a large park was created for them in 2009 – a much-needed change that means the bears have part of the river banks to themselves as well as green spaces with trees – designed on several levels leading down to the river. They hunt for their own food and hibernate in caves. You can see them from the Nydegg Bridge (at the end of the old town) or parts of the park. For more information and webcams go to the parks website here.
The Bernisches Historisches Museum/Einstein Museum
Bern was once home to Einstein and is a good place to learn all about this remarkable character. Both his place of residence in the city centre and a part of the Bern Historical Museum are dedicated to showcasing his life. The museum also displays world events large and small that were happening in his lifetime. It’s housed in the lovely Bern Historical Museum.
Bern Historical Museum and Einstein Museum (permanent exhibition) cover the following:
- The historical collection with objects dating from the Early Middle Ages to the present day.
- Swiss and ancient coins (Greek and Roman) and large collection of oriental coins.
- The archaeological collection of around 200,000 objects. The earliest finds date back approximately 1 million years, while the latest pieces are from the Early Middle Ages.
- An ethnographical collection of around 60,000 objects from all over the world dating from around 4000 BC to today. Many of the objects came from collectors who lived abroad such as James Cook’s painter, John Webber.
- A restaurant and bistro open out to the Museum’s gardens.
- Permanent exhibitions include Stone Age, Celts & Romans; Cultures in Asia & Oceania and Treasures from the Tombs of Egypt.
- Albert Einstein’s Museum – showing in the video below or on the website
More information can be found here: https://www.bhm.ch/en
The Einstein Museum. Here is a little video I found outlining what to expect at the museum.
Or, you could visit the building that was Einstein’s home in Bern for two years – Kramgasse No. 49 – right in the middle of the old town. This building has now been turned into a museum which exhibitions his personal life, biography & life’s work. See this link for details.
