Emmental
Exploring the Region
The only way to see Emmental is to go searching for it. This area is known to be difficult to find. They don’t promote their region to foreign tourists as much as other areas in Switzerland do. They are extremely traditional and seem to be happy to keep to themselves – to a point.
We stayed in a small village called Trubschachen for a week in October – between seasons. It was cold but not yet snowing and certain tourist attractions were closed for maintenance. Any day trips to places with known attractions were at least 1 hour away – Bern, Lucerne, Bernese Oberland, for example.
I was slightly concerned that my two children would end up sprawled out on the sofas looking at their devices but I didn’t need to be worried – we managed to find plenty to do.
The owner of the holiday home (a local lady) we were staying in had brochures everywhere – this is where you find the information – in Emmental itself. She even offered us a German language guide book, written by her. Some lesser-known sights are shown below:-
Length: 8 km; Time: 2.2 hours; Ascent: 323 Descent: 250 Grade: Easy Route: One-way from Riedtwil – Wynigen
The walk starts at Riedtwil train station (no longer in service) and bus stop, where there’s only a small hamlet of houses and farms. From here, turn right down Oschwandstrasse (also with a small carpark). This street is where the walk starts. Follow this road until you find a path to the right that follows the Mutzbach river. From here, you just wander alongside the river which is in a clearing between two woodlands.
There were no signposts for this part of the walk – we found this thanks to a local’s tip (Verena Zürcher’s little guide to the region called “Reiseführer für das Emmental”.
About 250m along, on the right is a bench. All you will see are trees and bushes behind this bench, and a small stream disappearing into them. Go through the bushes and you will come across a naturally carved out tunnel through to a hillside where the stream turns into a wide bed of rock with water gently flowing over it. This is worth exploring but be careful – it is slippery!
After exploring this area, go back through the small tunnel and continue across the meadows and, after a short time you will come across a large firepit and benches at the side of the shallow river.
You can hear the Mutzbach waterfalls at this point. The path leads, through trees to this idyllic spot. It is possible to continue around the falls via a stairway. Then a small metal ladder takes you up a small rockface.
The path, carved out of the rock, leads to a wooden bridge across the stream through a magnificent beech forest. The track becomes quite steep until reaching the farming hamlet of Rüedisbach. Turn into Buchgasse which leads you through both Hinter Leggiswil and Riedere, then, a narrow path leads along a sandstone meadow down to Wynigen.
Trains leave here for Bern via Burgdorf, taking 28 mins (6 mins to Burgdorf).
Walking waypoints
Hidden within the beautiful emerald green rolling hills and with a backdrop of the dramatic Schrattenfluh mountain is a wild river landscape called the Räbloch. This gorge can be found between Schangnau and Eggiwil. It was formed during the last ice age when the ice from a huge glacier covered the tectonically predetermined crevices, widening and deepening them.
From Steinmösli nature reserve
The road between Schangnau and Eggiwil changes name several times but this is where you will find the trail to this natural phenomenon. We were determined to find the natural bridge across the Räbloch Gorge during our visit to Emmental. At first, we couldn’t pinpoint exactly where it was located and drove past a couple of times, then, once we realised there were no big signs showing us the way, we found it.
In the end, it is actually very straightforward. There is even a car park available just before the nature reserve. When you drive past – all you see is the car park and not much else. Once you leave the car, a sign points the way and from there it is scenic 20 minutes walk to the bridge.
Worth a look because . . .
- lovely forested walk
- views of the mountains and countryside through gaps in the trees.
- View down to Räbloch gorge in a stunning setting.
- Walk across the natural bridge high above the gorge.
- Walk only takes 20 mins!
- Great countryside to drive or bus through.
There are, of course, other longer hiking possibilities that can allow you to enjoy a good part of this area such as this one below. The great thing about the suggestion below is that you can start in various different places along the way and there are Gasthöfe (restaurants) and outdoor grilling spots on the track.
The Bären Restaurant in Eggiwil
This was our next stop. A cosy traditional restaurant with great food! However, this is a pricey place – I had the soup and crusty bread and a hot drink (it was autumn and I needed warming up). I always find this kind of meal is more affordable and still fills me up.
Of course, there are plenty of other restaurants and Inns like this around the area. However, we really felt like we were in amongst the locals at the Bären. There were cows in the carpark area, beautifully crafted cowbells hanging from the ceiling and tables full of farmers in traditional clothing talking animatedly about… not sure what, perhaps the cows?
This is one of the first towns you come across in the Emmental region when driving from the Entlebruch Biosphere reserve in Canton Lucerne. We stayed here in a cosy holiday house, late autumn. It was the type of place where you are happy to spend some time curled up by the fire, reading a good book.
Our whole family seemed to fall into a traditional way of living – phones were mostly kept to the side (may have had something to do with the internet connection). The kids helped to chop wood for the fire and my daughter and I made some bread in the traditional oven which was also used to heat the house. As there was no TV, in the evenings we would sit at the large table playing games. In the mornings we would walk to the bakery to get breakfast and decide which walks to do that day.
There was also a chance to pan for gold in the Trueb river, with all the equipment available in the woodshed. We couldn’t figure out how to use all the bits and pieces so passed on that option – although I wish we had given it a go – maybe next time.
This was not our normal type of holiday but we all really enjoyed ourselves and will definitely be going back some day – to switch off from the hectic modern world.
It is a peaceful town with some traditional houses and is a good starting point for walks up the hills and mountains in the area. The well known Napf mountain is close to here. The Napf is a great place for views of the Bernese Alps and is not to strenuous to walk up. The national walks Nos 65 & 3 take you there.
Other reasons to stop here are:
- Heimat Museum – Small open-air museum with several traditional houses with demonstrations and displays showing the customs and culture of people living in this area in the 18th Century. This has been done extremely well with great detail including the clothing worn, the tools used for farming, pottery making and weaving. The is a pottery shop and cafe next door, also housed in a traditional building, where they sell homemade pottery. Opening Times: Sunday from April to the End of October 1.30 pm to 4.30 pm – with tours.
- Kambly biscuit factory This is a modern building packed to the rafters with biscuits, snacks and attractive tins to put them in. This is the kind of place you walk in empty-handed – determined not to go crazy, then walk out with several bulging Kambly paper bags.
- Gasthof zum Bären A lovely traditional building housing a very relaxed restaurant. There is a walk-up behind the Gasthof that scales the steep hill behind, offering amazing views.
