Canton Lucerne
Chapel Bridge in Autumn, Photo by A.Leggett
I read recently that the Chapel Bridge in Lucerne is the most photographed place in Switzerland. I have definitely added to these statistics as I always end up taking photos of the bridge every time I visit – each time it seems to look different. Sometimes it is lined with flowers, or covered in a dusting of snow or reflected in the Reuss river.
The lake also gets viewed through the lens of tourists’ cameras, with the many mountains in the background and steamships and swans in the foreground, it is a photographer’s dream.
So, for off-the-beaten-path ideas, I tried to stay away from the lakeside views and the Chapel Bridge. I was only partly successful.
Click on the text below for more info.
Historical Lucerne – Discovering the old town from above
View from the city walls shows two towers and, in the distance, the famous Water Tower of Chapel Bridge.
Lucerne city once had 30 towers built into its 13th-century fortifications, of which 9 have been preserved. Some interesting stories are linked to these towers, for example, the Wacht Tower on the outer city wall was built to replace a medieval tower. On 30 July 1701, the original tower was hit by lightning – unfortunately, it was full of gunpowder. As you can imagine, it was destroyed. Five people were killed but that didn’t stop them from immediately building a new one. I am guessing they stopped stockpiling gunpowder in any of the towers after that incident.
A PDF guide to the city wall, fortifications and towers can be found on the Musegg Mauer (Musegg Wall) website. This includes a detailed map, showing both existing and destroyed walls, bridges and towers.
Normal Opening Times
From April 1st to November 1st the Musegg Wall, Männli Tower, Zyt Tower, Wacht Tower and Schirmer Tower are freely accessible from 8 am to 7 pm
The wall and the towers are closed at night.
From 2nd November to 31st March, the wall and the towers will take a winter break and will also be closed. For safety reasons (snow, risk of slipping) and for the maintenance of the historic building.
Lakeside Walk from Lucerne’s old town to Verkehrshaus (Transport Museum)
Why do this walk? For the views, to get away from traffic, picnic spots, ice-cream stands (at the start), swans & playgrounds for kids, a shaded park, lido (see below) and finally a transport museum which is more exciting than it sounds (see below).
Buses leaving regularly from the Verkehrshaus and there is a ferry terminal opposite for trips on the lake.
While you are here don’t miss . . .
Verkehrshaus, observatory experience & Imax Theatre
Some of the attractions are – large outdoor arena, a collection of trains, planes, and cars, a miniature of Switzerland with model trains, hands-on activities, boat models and a space exhibition. They also have regular themed exhibitions and a permanent Swiss Chocolate experience tour which is loads of fun – and tasty.
& in the warmer months . . .
opposite the transport museum’s parking is the Lido & Beach
The walled & fenced facade of this Lido hides a very polished and tropical-style lakeside beach, offering a place to chill with awesome views and great facilities. Below I have listed all that is on offer within the Lido’s walls.
- A 300m sandy beach with views of the Alps
- Large lawn with shade from trees
- Large children’s playground
- Diving platforms – 1.7m, 4m & 6.3m
- SUP rental
- Heated 25m pool & separate paddling pool
- A cafe bar & grill with a pavilion and terrace.
- A food market plus pizza and Gilati take-out.
- Visit the Lido Gastronomy for food & drink info.
Lido Opening Times:
As always, please check the website for up-to-date information including prices. The following is as of Sept. 2023
May (open from mid-May)
daily from 10.00 – 19.00
June, July, August
Mon-Thurs & Sun from 09.00 – 20.00, Friday & Saturday until 21.00
September (closed from mid-September)
daily from 10.00 – 19.00
Prices
CHF 8.00 Adult (from 16 yrs) Mon to Fri; CHF10.00 Sat to Sun
CHF 5.00 Teenager (from 7 to 15 yrs )
CHF Free Children ( until the 7th year)
CHF 5.00 Adult & CHF 3.00 Teenager – Midday guest from 11.45 to 2 pm
CHF 5.00 Adult & CHF 3.00 Teenager – Evening guest from 5 pm
Around Lake Lucerne
To find out about various excursions on Lake Lucerne click on the picture below; for Canton Lucerne’s lakeside towns see below.
Looking over Lake Uri – a branch of Lake Lucerne, Photo by A.Leggett
Lake Lucerne is called Vierwaldstättersee in German. This means the lake of the four forested settlements, meaning four cantons – Lucerne, Unterwalden (Nid and Obwalden), Schwyz and Uri.
Lake side towns of Weggis & Vitznau
Canton Lucerne encompasses the northern part of the lake. This is a complicated lake with arms branching off all over the place. Easily reached by boat, the eastern shore has two small lakeside towns called Weggis and Vitznau. They both have ferry terminals and are lovely places to visit for a wander along the promenades or a swim in the lake. The Lakeside restaurant terraces offer fantastic views any time of the day. Sunsets are particularly impressive.
Bathing areas around Weggis & Vitznau
From Weggis to Vitznau and further along to Gersau (canton Schwyz) there are several small bathing spots, often with facilities such as food, terraces, floating platforms, slides, and seating/bathing areas. To enter, you need to pay a small charge and they are restricted to the opening hours. However, it is also possible to take a dip in the water at certain areas in and around the town’s lakeside promenades (see map below).
Cable Cars and Cog Railways
A large cable car leaves from Weggis to Rigi and two smaller ones – Wissifluh (mentioned below) and Hinterbergen– go up to various hiking paths and farm restaurants from Vitznau. There is also a historical cog railway from Vitznau that winds its way up to Rigi.
Rigi
One of the mountains behind these villages is simply called Rigi. It is perfectly shaped to offer many different types of excursions and picnic stops. There are also thermal baths at Rigi Kaltbad, partway up the mountain (Mineral Bad & Spa, Rigi Kaltbad) which gives a unique way to check out the views. Warning – Rigi is a hugely popular weekend excursion.
Excursion Tip:
Wissifluh – the panorama bench bordering two cantons
Panorama Bench and meadow near top station of Wissifluh Cable Car, Photo by A.Leggett
A good 5km hiking trail leads down to Vitznau from the top station of Wissifluh gondola, past farmyards and a couple of farm restaurants.
The Gondola
Wissifluh gondola is compact. Only 4 people can fit in the cabin and the journey up involves using a phone to request the gondola, buzzing and button pushing, then more buzzing.. then you are off. Once at the top – the cabin sort of hangs around at the top while you get out through a gate after more buzzing. It is all explained at the bottom station and there is a video and intercom for any issues. Perhaps think twice about doing this if you are afraid of heights. I found it to be ok – I trusted that it would always be in perfect working order and that the owners knew exactly what they were doing…
We went in early June and didn’t see many others around – the ones in this photo are friends that went before us.
When you get to the top expect a warm welcome – this is also where you need to pay for the gondola ride.
Some Facts: There is a 448 m height difference, it has been operating since 1908 with water ballast, and since 1942 with an electric drive.
The Bench
View from the Panorama Bench, Photo by M.Leggett
From the top of the gondola, it is an easy walk through some lovely farm buildings to the Panorama bench found in a meadow. This is considered by some to be the best viewpoint in Switzerland. The bench is just over the border of Lucerne canton – at the edge of canton Schwyz.
The Restaurant and hiking trail
Kuorez farm restaurant, Photo by A.Leggett
From this privately-owned farm restaurant, it is possible to sit out on the balcony and view the mountain panorama of cantons Uri, Lucerne, Nid and Obwalden (at this point the trail is in canton Schwyz). Kids can take off to the play area with a trampoline and swings and visit the farm animals. It is also possible to grab a takeaway snack and drink from here.
Entlebruch Biosphere – Lucerne’s Wild west
What can be found around the UNESCO Biosphere Entlebruch– 400 square kilometres
- The largest and most numerous moorland landscapes in Switzerland.
- over 80 km of paths leading to mystical moors and massive rocky mountains with the steep limestone cliffs of Schwändelifluh.
- deep gorges.
- mountain pine
Bookable as a package deal: It’s possible to book independent hikes in and around the moorland areas when staying at mountain hotels, B&Bs, or even a Tipi. These often include a packed lunch and transport of luggage to your accommodation. Contact the UNESCO Biosphere Entlebuch website for more information.
Photo by Daniel Vogel on Unsplash
Excursion Tip:
It is possible to have a go at Bikeboarding. These are a cross between bikes and skateboards (bike wheels, handlebars and breaks with a board to stand on). They can be rented in different mountainous regions around Switzerland such as Adelboden, in the Berner Oberland, and from Zugerberg, above Zug. Entlebuch Bikeboards (Trotti) can be rented from the top station of the Rossweid gondola(1470 m) in Sörenberg. The path leads through meadows, past a mountain reservoir then back down to the village (1166). There is the Alp-Käserei Schlacht (cheese dairy) on the way.
Link to Pamphlet on activities in Entlebuch Biosphere
or download here:
Around Schloss Heidegg
Schloss Heidegg is a stunning little castle sitting high above Baldeggersee (Lake Baldegg). It is a 45 minute drive (45km) west of Lake Zürich and is open to the public from April to October (2024). My family and I were lucky enough to stay in a holiday rental apartment found inside the castle complex. It was a magical place to stay with authentically decorated rooms complete with creaky floorboards, a large grandfather clock and views of the Alps.
We went at a time of year when heavy fog hangs around the lowlands of Zürich Canton for weeks on end – Christmas lights, markets and festive events often brighten things up but this year was different – it was covid time – no Christmas markets allowed.
Castle Heidegg is in a quiet part of the country, so it was a good place for us to hide away. – just to get out of the house, and out of the fog. It worked. As you can see from the photos, the fog tried its best to engulf us but didn’t quite manage it.
During the day we went for walks in the Hohenrain hills behind the castle and were rewarded with sunshine, blue skies and magnificent views of the Alps and even Lake Zürich.
I definitely recommend this area if you are around Zurich or Lucerne Canton in the foggy winter months.
The fog tried its best to reach us …
and came very close …
but gave up and we were rewarded with beautiful sunsets.
Schloss Heidegg’s curtain wall taken from within the lovely courtyard, Photo by A.Leggett
The courtyard is open to visitors during the warmer months and is a perfect place for viewing Baldegg Lake and the Alps.
Excursion Tip:
Walking up the Hohenrain Hills to the west of Zurich (between the lakes Hallwyl and Baldegg and Lake Zurich).
There are plenty of walking-above-the-clouds opportunities up here as well as restaurants offering solid meals and further views, such as Horben Alpwirtschaft just across the border into canton Aargau.
The Nussbaum Beizli is close to the border of Canton Aargau offering views over lake Zürich and the eastern Alps.
Acknowledgements:
Entlebuch menu picture: Photo 135671696 © Nuvisage – Dreamstime.com
Lucerne city walls picture: lj-coates-EcGxoLpQE5k-unsplash.jpg
