Stein am Rhein in canton Schaffhausen Photo by A.Leggett

When searching for a place to lift your spirits, you can’t go wrong with these well-preserved and authentic Swiss towns found in the northern regions. The countryside from Geneva in the west to St. Gallen in the east is made up of farmland, hills, mountain ranges, lakes of all sizes and river valleys. Within this area north of the alps, there are plenty of medieval towns – each with its own special appeal. Here are some discoveries of mine:

Picturesque Villages en route from Geneva to St. Gallen

1. Saint Saphorin

From Geneva to Lausanne – driving distance: 66 km – train journey time: express trains 35-45 mins/ region trains 48 mins. For regional train services from Vevey to the vineyard villages see the Regional Train info below.

Saint Saphorin is just one example of over 15 unspoiled villages found within a UNESCO World Heritage landscape known as the Lavaux terraces found on the edge of Lake Geneva. The residents of these villages have been working together in harmony with the landscape for hundreds of years, keeping the viticulture traditions alive. The continued success of growing grapes in this region is helped along by the favourable climatic conditions known as the “three suns” – the sun itself, the sun’s rays reflected by the lake and the warmth stored in the walls of the vineyards.

This pretty lakeside village is found between the lively town of Montreux and the city of Lausanne – an area known as the Montreux Riviera.

The Village

St. Saphorin is known for its winding cobbled alleyways and narrow back streets. The jumble of little houses, vaulted doors and archways date back to medieval times when the town used to be a fortified village. The ruins of a Gallo-Roman villa can be found in the basement of the reformed church and are listed as Swiss cultural assets of national importance.

Good to Know: St. Saphorin has been a member of the Association, “The Most Beautiful Villages in Switzerland”, since 2016.

The Region

There are networks of walking and biking trails as well as panorama, express and local train lines that snake their way across the landscape.

Regional Trains

The regional train service passes through the towns of Epesses, Rivaz, Saint-Saphorin, Vevey then Vevey to Chexbres offering a great sightseeing alternative. Visit sbb.ch for more information. The SBB website also offers maps for each service – in the timetable page add from/to then click on the departure time. The map link is shown in the This Connection box. It‘s a great way to visualise the villages and train lines.

Lavaux UNESCO Vineyard Walk

This 10 km circular walk links the region’s villages of Chexbres, Saint-Saphorin, Rivax and Epesses and can be started from any of the villages’ train stations. For more information go to the Vaud Tourism website which offers both a detailed map and guide to the walk, or you can download the Vaud: Guide – a free app that guides you around the route. The App also offers informative tidbits along the way and doesn’t require an internet connection – GPS is used.

Fitness level and accessibility

Accessible to people with average fitness – the paths are all paved and are pushchair and wheelchair friendly although there are some steep parts.

2. Gruyères

From Geneva – driving distance: 120 km (approx. 1 hr 30 mins -2 hrs) – train journey time: 2 hours (2 changes).

From Lausanne – driving distance: 57 km – train journey time: 1 hr 15 mins (2 changes).

Gruyères village; Photo by A.Leggett

The village of Gruyères is popular with tourists; not what my blog is about, but I had to include it, as it’s so pretty! The historical centre is set apart from the train station and suburban areas by its position high up on the slope of a hill, with the lovely 13th Century Gruyères castle at the highest point.

This centre is car-free, with a wide cobbled space between the rows of elegant buildings. You will find cafes, restaurants, boutique shops, souvenir shops and fountains here, as well as lovely views of the Fribourg and La Gruyère regions. One of the best places to see the Alps is from from the castle’s gardens.

History and Legend

According to legend, Gruyères was founded in 400 B.C. by the Vandal King Gruerius. He saw a crane (“grue” in French) flying across the crimson evening sky and decided to build his town on that spot. The coat of arms of Gruyères depicts a crane on a red background. The town and castle were once home to the counts of Gruyère. Over the centuries battles were won and then badly lost but the castle still looks as good as new.

Sights in the area

There are also plenty of wonderful things to do in the area – that are more off the beaten track.

• Walk through the Gorges de la Jogne – narrow gorge with limestone rock formations and lush green surroundings. The river Jaun swirls through this gorge and can be viewed from the walkways, bridges and tunnels in the rock.
• Visit the modern Les Bains de la Gruyère (Thermal Baths) in the pretty baroque town of Charmey. Note: The website is currently only in French and phones are strictly prohibited from being used in the bathing area.
• Visit the alpine village of Jaun, the only German-speaking village in the area, with its chalets and lovely waterfall that flows out of the limestone hillside. Is a great starting point for hiking and skiing.
• In winter visit the ski resorts found in both Jaun and Charmey.
• The lovely Callier chocolate factory in the neighbouring town of Broc.
• And of course, the many mountain cheese dairies can be visited by doing a cheese dairy trail around the pre-alps region.
• The impressive limestone mountains of Gastlosen (the Swiss Dolomites) are worth exploring for their sheer beauty.

See below for a map of the sights

3. Murten

From Bern – driving distance: 30 km via A1 (approx. 30 mins)- train journey time: 35 mins.

From Neuchâtel – driving distance: 30 km via A5 (approx. 30 mins) – train journey time: 21 mins.

The well-preserved town of Murten, on the edge of a lake of the same name, is part of the three-lake-region found close to Lake Geneva. The historic town centre has large arches and pretty fountains dating back to the 15th century. The town opens out to an attractive lakefront area which is set up with ice-cream stalls, mini-golf, sunbathing lawns, swimming pool, lake swimming, boating and watersports – so is generally a nice spot for cooling off and relaxing.

This photo was taken from the old town’s rampart walls which were built in several stages from the 12th Century. Walking along these Ramparts is a fun way to see the old town, view the lake and learn a bit about the long history of the area.

Places and events in Murten:

• Historical fountains – dating back to the 15th century.
• Arches and Arcades – The Baroque-styled town’s Hauptgasse (car-free main street). Arches line the cobbled streets. Certain restrictions keep the old town streets of Murten in their original state.
• Moat & Towers 12 fortification towers are built into the rampart walls. Each tower’s name relates to its position and original function. There are some rather unsettling names, such as Death Tower (Totentanz), which is at the site of the first slaughterhouse, the Prison Tower and the Witches Tower…
• Murten Museum – one of the oldest in canton Fribourg, is located in a former mill outside the rampart walls. The permanent exhibition illustrates 6,000 years of Murten’s history with items from everyday life & a multimedia show of the Battle of Murten.
• Wine Tasting in Vully – across the lake.
• Popular Lakeside festivals – Stars of Sound and the impressive Murten Light Festival (winter)
• Christmas market & ice skating rink in winter

Murten Light Festival

Another lovely town on the edge of Lake Murten is Avenches –  which is a member of the Most Beautiful Villages in Switzerland association – an achievement proudly mentioned on the town’s website. For more information on this town and all the activities around Lake Murten

4. Twann

From Biel/Bienne – driving distance: 8 km – train journey time: 7 mins.

From Neuchâtel – driving distance: 23 km, (20 mins) – train journey time: 22 mins.

Twann is one of several historic wine villages with unspoiled centres found around Lake Biel/Bienne. This hidden gem is all about wine with its ornate shop signs, wine cellars, shops, restaurants and impressive Vinothek Viniterra. One of the most attractive wine trails in the country, the Rebenweg, also leaves from here.

The Murals of Twann Project

4 large-scale murals carefully painted by a local artist are recent additions to Twann’s Dorfstrasse. Created in 2019, 2020, & 2021, they show seasonal work on the vines, with one mural for each season. The preparation and paintings were carefully thought out to fit in with the village and reflect the traditional practices used in the vineyards.

Site of National Importance

Lake Biel’s northern region is part of a wine protection zone and is listed as a site of national importance. This area includes several wine villages and hamlets, vineyards, stone walls and pathways. The protected villages are La Neuveville, Ligerz, Twann and Tüscherz.

5. St. Ursanne

From Biel/Bienne – driving distance: 50 – 60 km – train journey time: 48 mins, either direct or changing at Delémont.

A shuttle bus connects Saint Ursanne train station (found above the town) to the town centre. It’s also possible to walk into town from the station – about 10 minutes downhill.

Saint Ursanne is a magical place. You could see why the Irish monk Ursicinus chose this secluded spot on the Doubs for his hermit life. After a long missionary journey from Ireland to the Frankish kingdom, he is said to have settled in a grotto in the area shortly after 600 AD. About 500 years later, monks founded a monastic community at his tomb and started construction on the collegiate church (12th Century) which has been added to and changed over the years. It has beautiful Klosters and a courtyard worth visiting. If you feel like a bit of exercise, it is possible to reach the hermitage grotto of the Irish monk, however, you would need to be willing to climb over 190 steep steps.

St. Ursanne has retained its medieval charm. The arrangement of the houses (some from the 14th and 15th Century) clearly shows the course of the former city walls. Anyone who wants to get to the city centre has to go through one of the three city gates. When I visited in March 2021 the cobbled street and underground water supply were being completely renovated in fact when I walked into the town, there were hardly any cobbles – just a dirt road. I imagine it all looks pristine and pretty today and I would love to visit again soon.

Things to do in the area

The area is very enchanting with its lush forests, wild natural environment and the impressive Doubs River. Below are some ways of exploring the area:

• A network of hiking trails leave directly from the train station.
• Climb to the hermitage grotto of Ursicinus and the 16th-century chapel.
• Discover the Doubs Nature Park – almost 300 square kilometres, from the French border.
• Canoeing on the Doubs – also for beginners and families (book at the tourism office from 1st March – 1st October).
• Other activities organised through the information centre are bike or scooter rental, football-golf, golf, archery and horse-drawn carriage rides.

While in the neighbourhood

Tour around the most beautiful villages in the Jura and Three Lakes Region

The Jura and Three-Lake-Region’s official website (j3l.ch) has put together a tour of the attractive historical towns in the region (in the Jura mountains & the Neuchâtel, Bienne and Murten lakes). This is a circular tour made up of 10 stages and is a great way to explore the region.

6. Solothurn

From Bern – driving distance: 41 km via A1 northbound, then A5 – train journey time: 37 mins.

From Biel/Bienne – driving distance: 30 km on the A5 – train journey time: 13 mins.

Considered the finest Baroque town in Switzerland, Solothurn’s streets and alleyways are lined with elegant buildings that open out to pretty courtyards and squares. Riverside cafes and restaurants with outdoor terraces line the Aare river and cycle paths wind their way along the banks. Found on the southern end of the Jura mountains, Solothurn can be reached easily from Biel/Bienne (30 km), which is found at the eastern edge of the three-lakes region.

For more information on the old-town historical buildings, activities plus sights in the region go to my canton Solothurn page.

7. Zug

From Lucerne – driving distance: 33 km via motorway – train journey time: 20-30 mins.

From Zürich – driving distance: 30 km via motorway – train journey time: 20-27 mins with express trains.

Zug’s lakefront with the old town in the distance

The main north/south highway curves around Zug and the express trains from Zürich to the south pass through Zug’s central station. Because of this, it is easy to just pass by the town in favour of the more well-known places like Zürich, Lucerne or Locarno. I had been in Switzerland for over 10 years without a visit – I would catch fleeting glimpses of the lake as the train or car whizzed by but finally decided to spend the day here to check out the old town, the lake and do a hike on the Zugerberg hill above the town. I now recommend adding Zug to your itinerary – especially when the sun is shining.

The Town

Zug regularly appears on lists as one of the best places to live in Switzerland which is partly down to its location. Zug has an attractive position on the edge of Zugersee (Lake Zug) with uninterrupted views to the foothills and alps. The old town is well preserved and its cobbled streets and alleyways lead to the lakeside. From here it is possible to wander to lakeside parks and open spaces that are great for chilling and watching the setting sun mirrored in the lake.

Rosengarten and Guggi Hill

The Rosengarten located on top of Guggi hill is a wooded meadow close to the centre which overlooks the old town and offers some great views of the town’s rooftops, spires and the mountains.

Bike Hire

Bikes are available to rent at most main train stations and during the summer months – there are some free bike rental programs. 

Zug old town Photo by A. Leggett

The old town’s clock tower

The clock tower (13th century) with its pretty blue and white striped roof tiles, dominates the historical part of the town. It is possible to climb to a viewing chamber, added in 1557, that looks out over the roofs of Zug by picking up a key from the souvenir shop underneath (a small deposit is necessary).

Tip: Zug’s waterfront location has some perfect spots for viewing the sunset. For a link to sunset times go here.

For more information about the region including Zugerberg mountain go to my canton Zug page.

8. Eglisau

From Zürich – driving distance: 26km via the A1L and A51 directly north – train journey time: 32 mins on S9 – no change.

Eglisau at sunrise

Eglisau is a well-preserved, small town north of Zürich. What makes it extra special is its position on the Rhine and the forests and vineyards that surround it. Between the forest and town centre there is a park and a historic wooden bathhouse with facilities for swimming in the Rhine – including a sunbathing lawn, 15 m long enclosed swimming area, a diving board, paddling area for kids and toilets. The bathhouse is open from May to September when the sun is shining.

From here there are some idyllic walking trails, one goes up above the vineyards overlooking the Rhine and another winds its way through a thickly forested nature reserve, alongside the river.

Good to Know: There are some good BBQ facilities found along the trail.

For more information on Eglisau go to the Rheinland section in my Walks in Zürich canton page.

9. Stein am Rhein

From Zürich – driving distance: 56 km – train journey time: Just over an hour, changing at either Schaffhausen (22 mins) or Winterthur (40 mins).

View of Stein am Rhein and Hohenklingen Castle, Photo by A. Leggett

The medieval centre of Stein am Rhein is a work of art – a description used often to describe this town. Found on the edge of the Rhein in a very picturesque location, Stein am Rhein’s historic centre has a wide pedestrian area that acts as a viewing gallery for the building’s painted facades. You will find scenes from past battles, farming traditions and even some mythical creatures. There are always a few people standing in the square, looking up with their cameras perhaps trying to understand what it all means.

Photos by A.Leggett

Activities and Eateries

Fountains of all sizes are found around the town and, in summer, restaurants and cafes offer outdoor seating shaded with large sun umbrellas. It is also possible to walk alongside, take a boat trip on or swim in the Rhine… depending on the weather and how energetic you are feeling…

For the kids, there is a small ride-along train (summer) and an adventure playground. Riverside bathing facilities (small charge) are at the west end of the town – about 10 minutes by foot.

Steps from the historical old town of Stein am Rhein to Hohenklingen Castle & the castle’s entrance. Photos by A.Leggett

Hike to a castle

If you are in the mood for a bit of an uphill hike – it is possible to walk through the vineyards and forest up to Hohenklingen castle. There is a restaurant with a terrace and viewing areas offering a great view of the old town. There are also several grill spots in a clearing alongside the castle – also with views. The walk through the castle is free.

Driving instead of walking: Hohenklingen castle is a short drive from Stein am Rhein through vineyards and the forest. There are parking options alongside the road – just follow the signposts.

10. Appenzell

From Zürich – driving distance: 100 km – train journey time: 2 hrs (1 change in Gossau)

From St.Gallen – driving distance: 20 km – train journey time: 40 mins (no change)

Pharmacy in the village of Appenzell Photo by A.Leggett

With Appenzell being the most traditional canton in Switzerland there is always something to discover – such as the villages with their picturesque buildings, the local museums and the rural art, crafts and folklore. Bold and bright colours are part of these traditions and the village of Appenzell is the perfect place to experience this.

The town of Appenzell is full of historical buildings that have been beautifully crafted with coloured panels, elegantly designed gables, paintings on the facades and ornate signs dangling from the shops and eateries.

For an overview of the region’s special history visit Museum Appenzell which focuses on traditional costumes, local beliefs, customs and folk art.

Shopping in Appenzell Village

There are over 60 shops in the village centre selling things like traditional crafts, alpine herb products, specialty meat, cheese and milk products, as well as the local beer and Appenzell liqueur (yum). They also do a really good job of making sweet treats that have been around for centuries like the Biber Cake (Beaver cake) – made with honey, almonds and spices. You will find quality outdoor clothing here to prepare for hiking in the hills and mountains and, of course, plenty of souvenir shops.

Countryside & Traditions

The village of Speicher in the Appenzell’s hilly mittelland, @Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives

Appenzell is surrounded by rolling hills (mittelland) dotted with traditional farmhouses and villages. The soaring, jagged peaks of the Alpstein Massif offer a stunning backdrop. It is like an adventure playground with plenty of opportunities to go hiking (summer and winter), tobogganing, riding on cable cars or just getting out into the countryside.

One of my favourite pastimes is walking around the hills of Appenzell (and, yes, the hills are alive with the sound of cowbells). It is so easy to get up and out in this region. The regional trains will drop you off at the start of one of the many hiking paths that leave from the villages or hamlets. There are trails all over the hilly countryside and, if you like a bit more of a challenge – treks in the mountainous Alpstein region. For walks in the area go to the Appenzellerland official website.

Where to experience the traditions and culture

Das Silvesterchlausen is a New Year’s tradition celebrated in the Appenzeller Hinterland und Mittelland. @Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives

Many of the traditions in this area are centered around farming practices and products. Cheesemaking, haymaking and animal husbandry have been around for decades. Some of the traditions are:

• Cattle drive up and down the mountains – with a procession, colourful costumes, finely crafted bells and singing – seen in spring and autumn
• Yodelling and traditional music
• Carnivals
• Cattle shows
• Colourful, ornately designed and larger-than-life costumes – worn for many occasions.
• Peasant Art (Senntumsmalerei) (16th Century) – paintings depicting everyday farm life and hunting. Souvenir and art shops in the villages have all kinds of Senntumsmalerei prints such as posters, postcards, carvings and calendars to name a few.
• The Appenzell Folklore Museum in Stein and the Appenzeller Brauchtum (customs) Museum in the town of Urnäsch tell the story of these paintings along with other traditions and customs.

The Appenzellerland website is a great source of information for all of the above experiences.

Acknowledgements

St. Ursanne sunset photo: susnpics at pixabay

Eglisau village image: hans-hamann-lQ3oGSpwUyY-unsplash