Engelberger Aa river. Image by A. Leggett
Fürenalp Region and a Hike to Remember
Exploring the Swiss region of Engelberg is a perfect way to lift your spirits while witnessing the living traditions found throughout the rugged mountainous region. A walking trail through the Engelberger Aa River Valley passes through farming meadows, past waterfalls and cheese dairies and, in the warmer months, cows munching on wildflowers.
As soon as you reach the top of the Fürenalp gondola, deep in the Engelberg valley, the views are instantly staggering with a wall of rugged mountains, a deep valley and pretty meadows all around. Switzerland’s signature bright yellow hiking signposts point to the dirt trails that wind around corners and up hills hinting at the possibilities of more spectacular panoramas.
My family and I travelled on the Fürenalp gondola in late summer when slate grey clouds were threatening us from a distance. We knew it was just a matter of time before they rolled in, bringing heavy rain and stormy weather. We had just enough time to get up the small gondola and have a quick look around. For me this was a good opportunity to show my two teenagers that this would be an exciting place to explore and hike around in the coming days of our holiday – it worked. They both made me promise we would come back for a proper hike the next day.
Stäuber Waterfall Panoramic Hike
A lovely downhill hiking trail is the Stäuber panorama hike(9.2 km, 3 hours, medium difficulty). It starts at the top of the Fürenalp gondola (1,850 m) and gradually winds down through rocky meadows and pastures that, during the warmer months, are home to wildflowers and cattle. At the Stäuber waterfall, the trail turns back towards Engelberg it then runs along the river valley, back to the Fürenalp car park with an alternative shorter version using the smaller Äbnet gondola.
All in one – wildflowers, cows, waterfalls and mountains. Photo by A.Leggett
Good to Know: The high-altitude grazing and wildflower diet give the cow’s milk and the cheese a special flavour – so it is worth trying out a cheese platter at one of the mountain dairies or restaurants.
Making our way down to the valley from Fürenalp. Photo by A.Leggett
The path eventually reaches a small cluster of buildings that are made up of the Surenen Kaserei (cheese dairy) and Usser Äbnet cable car – a possible shortcut option.
Äbnet Bahn, Alpkäse trail. Image from Engelberg Tourism
This shortcut would mean missing out on the lovely Stäuber waterfall that is tucked into the landscape at the turning point of this walk. From here there are also further walks to the wild Surenen Pass.
Looking towards the Surenen Pass with the pretty Stäuber waterfall below. Photo by A.Leggett
The waterfall is the point where the trail heads back toward Engelberg and Fürenalp cable car valley station. After zig-zagging down to the valley and passing over trickling springs, the trail runs alongside the wide, shallow Engelberger Aa River.
Hay-making involves special gondolas that help transport large bundles of hay down the steep terrain. Some of these “Burdi” (bale of hay in Swiss German) weigh around 60 kg so the farmers need all the help they can get with this back-breaking job.
Shaded spots can be found alongside the river. Photo by A.Leggett
We found this picnic spot by the river – massive boulders and trees provided lounging areas and shade.
From here the path passes some places offering food and drink (see below) and then crosses fields before reaching the cable car station’s carpark and bus stop – beware of the paragliders landing. I remember running through the fields to get out of their way (probably not a good idea) before finishing the walk – a last burst of energy. Am sure we didn’t need to worry, they seemed to have their landings all under control.
It is obviously important to respect the natural environment and farming areas by sticking to the trails. The farmers that graze their stock around the meadows in this area work hard to ensure the natural environment is protected, therefore, any visitors to the area need to do the same thing.
Food stops and other activities in the area
Alp Käserei and Beizli – (alpine cheese dairies and small restaurants)
The alpine cheese dairies (Alpkäserei) can be found dotted throughout the mountains in this region (open from mid-May to October) with the dairy products coming straight from the cows seen in the surrounding meadows. Two found on this hike are Surenen Alpkäserei which is part of the Äbnet gondola´s top station and Alpkäserei & Berggasthaus Stäfeli tucked away in the valley.
Bouldering at Äbnet: Image from Engelberg-Titlis Tourism
For the more adventurous there are Klettergärten (rock climbing areas), a rope park (Seilpark) and, for experienced climbers, the Via Ferrata climb which offers a much more challenging way of reaching the Fürenalp mountain restaurant.
For further hiking ideas with maps go here.
Tradition and Way of Life
The Engelberger Valley is farmed in a way that is in harmony with the landscape. Because of the steep alpine pastures, it is only possible to do the cutting, raking, and bundling of hay manually – a system of farming that also contributes to the land’s biodiversity and protection.
Often the slopes on the Stanserhorn, Haldigrat and around Engelberg are even too steep for grazing – not sure how they discovered that – a cow avalanche maybe?
The Buiräbähnli gondolas are heavily relied on by farmers around the Engelberg valley. Photo by A.Leggett
The tradition of manually cutting, with hand sharpened scythes, and transporting the hay for the coming winter is known as “wild haymaking”. For hundreds of years, strong farmers have risked life and limb to work on the steep slopes high up from the valley floor and small open gondolas that look like awkwardly formed trailers have been relied on for shifting the hay, milk containers and sometimes people. These rustic lifts are called “Buiräbähnli” – a word that is almost impossible to pronounce by anyone that is not Swiss. If you look hard enough you will find them all over – their lines stretching up hills, mountains and across wide rivers beds. Nowadays it is possible to have a ride in some of the enclosed Buiräbähnli if you have a good head for heights.
Getting There and Hiking Information
By Public Transport to Fürenalp gondola bus stop:
Zürich Main Station:– Train to Engelberg (change at Lucerne) and shuttle bus from Engelberg to Fürenalp, 2 hours 15 mins. Check bus timetable on fürenalp.ch website as limited service in autumn and no service during the winter months.
Lucerne Main Station:– Train to Engelberg and shuttle bus from Engelberg to Fürenalp, 1 hour 15 mins. Check bus timetable on fürenalp.ch website as limited service in Autumn and no service during the winter months.
By Car to Fürenalp gondola carpark:
Zürich centre:– 90km via A4, around 1 hour 20 mins depending on traffic
Lucerne centre:– 40 km via A2, around 50 mins
Hiking Map and Fürenalp Gondola Operating Times
Go to the Engelberg Tourism link for the Stäuber Panorama Hike.
Go to fürenalp.ch/en/opening-hours for the Fürenalp operating times and prices.
