Grimentz and the Val d’Anniviers
I recently visited the remote village of Grimentz in the Val d’Anniviers while staying in Sierre in the Rhône Valley.
Although the Val d’Anniviers is very accessible from Sierre (bus and car, not train), it is still a nerve-tingling road trip.
I decided to travel by bus, letting someone else worry about the switchbacks and narrow roads.
Road Trip – the adventure
I had only glanced briefly at the road map before doing this journey, thinking that the bus would take me down the valley, then zig-zag for a short while before arriving in Grimentz. I was wrong. If you look closely at a map, you will see that the zig-zagging starts early, then the road cuts into the side of the steep mountains – very high up.
The buses find it particularly tricky as they often need to use both sides of the road to negotiate these switchbacks. They will alert oncoming traffic in the nicest possible way. If you have been on any mountain road on a post bus you will know what I mean. They toot the horn which has a very distinctive & loud sing-song tune. On this particular journey, it can be heard regularly – after a few tight corners, the sing-song horn started to sound suspiciously like brace, brace, brace!
Vissoie Village Centre, Photo by A.Leggett
I was sitting beside the window closest to the drop, having a look now and then, only to see … nothing except the valley below. What amazed me was how calm all the other passengers seemed. Now and then I would frantically look around, hoping to share my obvious nervous energy with others. No one even looked at me, in fact, most of the passengers were chatting calmly or nodding off. I assumed they were locals. Their relaxed states did help calm me somewhat.
Vissoie (1204 m) is located around the centre of the valley and during the trip, the valley floor gradually gains altitude and the road’s curves become more gentle. By the time we arrived the sing-song horn was no longer needed and I had regained my composure.
From Vissoie the road splits in several directions. One way is towards my destination, Grimentz (1572 m) – higher on the southwest side of the valley; or the route to Ayer (1475 m) and Zinal (1675 m) on the southeast side. Another road zig-zags eastward to St-Luc (1,655 m). Due to Vissoie’s geographical location, this is a stage in the trip when passengers need to change buses. When I arrived there was a flurry of people with backpacks and walking poles, moving from one bright yellow bus to another, ready to continue their journey further along the valley.
After all the twists and turns of the road trip, Vissoie feels quite remote but at the same time, it has the look of a resort-style alpine village. At this point, I was looking longingly at the terraced restaurants and chalet-style cafés decorated with bright red geraniums, wanting to stop for a while before moving on, but, of course, Swiss public transport runs like clockwork and my next bus was ready to leave, with or without me.
The road from Vissoie to Grimentz passes through hills and steep meadows rather than dramatic cliffs with beautiful views down the valley.
All in all, it was an amazing experience with unbelievable views – and despite my obvious nervousness, the drivers are experts, and the roads are well maintained and safe.
Grimentz
The Rustic Historical Buildings and some of their Stories
This picturesque village, filled with geraniums in summer, is considered to be one of the most traditional villages of Valais. This is down to the authenticity of its centre. Many of the buildings have been incredibly well preserved with the narrow streets, alleyways and courtyards still feeling like they would have hundreds of years ago.
Traditionally this valley was home to nomadic inhabitants who lived for part of the year in the Rhône Valley. Nowadays fewer people live this way although, in summer, some residence move down to the valley to work in the vineyards.
When visiting the information centre, it is possible to purchase a guide booklet that has a simple numbered map that showing and explaining places of interest in the town.
These are some of the stories from this village:
One of the oldest houses in Grimentz, found at the far end of this street, was built between 1480 and 1550. This house belonged to the “Bourgeoisie”. The exclusive membership included priority access to services like the mill and sawmill. Being a member was also a way of contributing to the community.
In 1873 a cross was erected to protect the village against fire and the elements.
The mill was understandably an important part of all the villages in this region – since it played a big part in keeping the locals fed. In Grimentz its location also housed the sawmill, bread oven, bread room and slaughterhouse.
There are three animated fountains in the village. The mill worker fountain, a fountain representing fighting Héren cows and the fountain of the baker.
A landslide in 1999 caused both the mill and the original fountain of the baker to be destroyed. The mill was then built with the original materials and the baker’s fountain was also reconstructed.
The Bread House offers tourists the opportunity to make bread in the original bread room every week. Winter: from mid-December to mid-April; Summer: from the beginning of July to the end of October. A notice on the door advises that on the days of bread making there will be smoke coming out of the building and not to be alarmed.
Originally the bread house was where families would come to make bread for the season – four times a year. The bread would, of course, harden over time but families simply cut it with an axe and soaked it in milk, coffee or soup. Perhaps we could learn a thing or two from this.
The houses in the old town mostly date from the 17th and 18th centuries. They are all made of larch which is darkened with time.
The original storehouses and granaries can be seen throughout the old town streets. They date from the 17th century. The stilts are to prevent rodents from getting in and to keep the provisions dry.
Things like dried meat, bread and flour were kept here.
Glacier Wine (Vin du Glacier)
I remember someone telling me that if you like the wine, then it is a good one… I am really curious as to how this particular wine tastes. Hint Hint.
To explain the principle behind Vin du Glacier wine, I have quoted the explanation from the Val d’Anniviers website:
“The principle of the Vin du Glacier is simple: the barrels are never emptied. Every year new wine is added to the old. For example :– The wine in a barrel from 1888 will be blended with one from 1886
– Wine from 1934 will top up the 1888 barrel
– Wine from 1969 will be used to top up the 1934 barrel and will in turn receive new wine in later yearsThe “Vin du Glacier” cannot be bought. It can only be savoured in the cellars of Anniviers, drawn directly from the barrel.
The cellar of the Maison Bourgeoisiale (ancient Community House) houses among others the famous Bishop’s Barrel. The wine in this larch-wood barrel dates from 1886. Once destined to the Bishop, it is served nowadays to VIP guests on special occasions.“
Quote from https://www.valdanniviers.ch/en/glacier-guided-tour-house-bourgeoisie-grimentz-960.html
It is possible to taste the Vin du Glacier wine while visiting Grimentz. (Minimum of 4 people and the language is French). Currently, it is limited to specific dates, weekly, on Mondays at 5 pm. Therefore it is best to arrange any wine tasting at the Grimentz Tourism office or Val d’Anniviers website.
The Navisence River, Val d’Anniviers
Photo by © Steven Van Aerschot | Dreamstime.com
Rando-Fondue
I found this unique experience while looking around the Information Centre in Grimentz:
This is how it works:
- Book your fondue-kit online by 5pm the day before.
- On the day, the kit can be picked up from a local supermarket – (the time depends on opening hours).
- There will be operating instructions, a recipe and walking guide included.
- Ingredients include bread, cheese, wine (or apple juice) and some extras.
For details go to the local tourism office or follow this link:
Winter Sports and Activities – Where to find them
The four ski areas of Val d’Anniviers are Grimentz, Zinal, St-Luc/Chandolin and Vercorin. One pass can be used for all areas.
| Vercorin | Ski Trekking, winter hiking, snowshoeing, ski school, snow park, natural ice-skating rink, learner slope, |
| St Luc/Chandolin | ski trekking, winter hiking, ski school, snow park, 3.5 km sled run, learner slope, |
| Grimentz/Zinal | ski trekking, winter hiking, ski school, Anniviers Indoor Park, snow parks – different levels, sled runs, cross-country skiing, natural ice-skating rink, learner slope, Escape Room, |
| Vissioe and valley | cross-country skiing, natural ice-skating rink, Escape Room, |
For up-to-date information, maps and facilities and contact details for mountain guides
please go to val d’anniviers/infos live
Alpine Pastures
Alpage de la Lée ( La Lée Alpine Pastures)is in a far corner of the Val d’Anniviers
Right at the end of the valley, there are around 800 hectares of pastures in the Alpage de la Lée area. They are spread over different levels from the Plats de la Lée up to the Zinal glacier and between the Navisence River in the valley and the mountain peaks high above the valley on the west side.
In the area known as Le Vichiesso, a former alpine pasture, you will find a tsigière (alpine chalet) reconstructed in the traditional style, (a cheese storeroom can be visited on request). Vichiesso pastures and buildings give an idea of life on the alpine pastures in the past.
Information panels can be found leading up to Petit Mountet mountain hut (2142 m) – open for eating and sleeping from June to October. There are some more traditional huts on the further up.
To get there see my orientation & info tab
Video by Cabane du Petit Mountet – Val d’Anniviers
Bisse des Sarrisins (Irrigation channels of the Saracens)
It is believed that Saracens built the irrigation channel, however, this has never been proven. They are estimated to have been built between 1415 and 1513 when the channel’s source was at a Moulinet (downstream from Pinsec).
The Bisse des Sarrisins irrigation channel is 10 km long and was used for watering livestock, irrigating the pastures and operating sawmills and mills.
Restored in the early 2000s, the Bisse des Sarrasins path is now accessible to hikers. It connects Pinsec to Vercorin and can also be reached from the village of Fang.
You will need a good head for heights in various parts on various parts of this trail.
Useful information
- Season for hiking: from May to November
- Duration: Approx. 3 hours
- Includes: 17 educational panes along the route
Important
- This mountain route is medium difficulty
- It should only be attempted in dry weather
- You will need a head for heights in some places
- It’s each person’s responsibility to look for any changes to conditions or the roads/track before doing it.
Below is a link for more information on Bisse des Saracens and other hikes:
- This Val D’Anniviers page gives details on popular trails including the Bisse des Saracens hike and hikes to alpine lakes and alpine huts.
I
Visiting the Mills
The Grimentz mills date back to 1716. They were renovated in the early 1970s, and a vertical waterwheel was installed on the south façade to recreate a working site.
As mentioned on the village tab, the mill was refurbished in the traditional style, with millstones and a horizontal blade drive system, after part of it was badly damaged in May 1999
The Saint-Luc mills (Les Moulins Saint-Luc) can be found near Saint-Luc, down at the Torrent des Moulins river. These mills were built in the 16th century and renovated in 1986. On the site of the mills, you will find a corn mill, barley and nut press, 2 rye and wheat mills, a cloth mill, and the miller’s house. See the local tourism office for opening times
To get there and map see my orientation & info tab
Winter in Vissoie Village as seen from St Luc
In the past, the steep elevation of the mountains in this part of Valais caused the region to become isolated. This resulted in the formation of some unique regional dialects. Although the local population still use these dialects, they also speak standard French and German.
Interesting Fact:
The western part of the canton is mostly French-speaking (Valais) and the eastern part (Wallis) is mostly German-speaking. The mountain ridges between Val d’Anniviers and the Turtmanntal valley are considered the imaginary line or “Röstigraben” that separates the two. The clue is in the names of the valleys – Tal is German, Val is French.
See Below for Transport Information
Places mentioned in this post are displayed on the map
Transport Information
Buses leave regularly from Sierre to Vissoie (change here for connections to further down the valley, or across to St Luc). See sbb.ch for timetable and route information.
Main Routes
Sierre – Vercorin
Sierre – Vissoie
Vissoie – St-Luc
Vissoie – Grimentz
Vissoie – Grimentz – Lac de Moiry
Vissoie – (stops at Ayer) – Zinal
Cable Cars, Gondolas, chairlifts and St Luc’s Funicular
For up-to-date information on season information, the Val d’Anniviers website Info Live page has all current information.
