14 Sep 2021

How to Experience the Awe-Inspiring Aletsch Glacier – My Valais Adventure

by | posted in: Adventure, Ideas for walks, UNESCO World Heritage Site | 0
On the trail between Moosfluh & Hohfluh viewing platforms. Photo by A.Leggett

The Great Aletsch Glacier – A UNESCO World Heritage Site

In 2001, the Aletsch Glacier & Jungfrau-Aletsch Protected Area was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site.

The Aletsch Glacier is over 20km long and the largest glacier in the Alps – however, sadly, it is rapidly receeding. Pro Natura (A Swiss nature & environment organisation) reports that this impressive glacier is retreating by up to 50m in length each year as well as shrinking at the edges.

There are four viewing platforms to see the Glacier. They give brilliant views of the glacier and a 360-degree view of mountains. It is possible (depending on the platform/area) to see Aletschhorn, Matterhorn, Jungfrau, Mönch, Eiger, Dom & Weissmies mountains.

The Hike from Moosfluh to Riederfurka

Length: 4.4 km

Highest Point: 2,333 m

Lowest Point: 1,923 m

Duration: approx. 1 hr 30 mins

Ascent: 3 m

Descent: 410 m

Difficulty: moderate

Time of Year: May – September

See below for the hiking map

This hike takes you along a trail that mostly follows the ridgeway between Moosfluh to Riederfurka. You walk through a landscape of boulders and stones carpeted with alpine plants and moss – some very rare. After passing the Hohfluh chairlift the landscape becomes softer with trees dotted around and a few small ponds. 

The whole walk is stunning, with almost constant views of the Aletsch Glacier and the massive mountains on the other side. 

Gondolas from Mörel

When I did this trip I was staying in Kandersteg, in a valley south of Interlaken. I couldn’t believe how easy it was to get to the Aletsch Arena gondolas considering there are huge mountains between Kandersteg and the Rhône Valley. The solution: a simple train trip through a long tunnel, a change at Brig and a 10-minute bus trip to the Mörel (Riederalpbahn) stop. I love the Swiss transport system!

The bus stop is right outside the Riederalp Mitte gondola valley station in Mörel. This gondola goes up to Riederalp Village, then the next ride –  Gletscherbahn Moosfluh is within walking distance.

When reaching the top of the Moosfluh gondola (2,333 m) you are surrounded by an incredible rocky alpine landscape, and, like the icing on the cake – the view of the Aletsch Glacier and craggy mountains just stuns. For me, this was a definite WOW moment. I couldn’t figure out why everyone around me was just calmy walking around – I felt like jumping up and down and saying, ‘Are you Serious’!

The trail splits and joins up again for most of the hike. You can normally choose which path you want to take as they all end up at the same place. The yellow signposts indicate when the path leads to a different route so it is important to stop and look at the signs before continuing. Also, as I found out, there are often plenty of seasoned hikers who are happy to help point you in the right direction.

Hohfluh lookout Photo by A.Leggett

If you want to stop the hike here and use the Hohfluh chairlift, I would recommend checking out its seasonal operating times as the summer season is quite short (see the Practical Information tab above).

From the Hohfluh chairlift, the landscape becomes greener with trees dotted around, offering a bit of shade. The path then goes away from the glacier, winding slightly downhill to the Riederfurka area.

The ancient Aletsch forest is home to the oldest trees in Switzerland – according to the Pro Natura Centre Aletsch which is found at Riederfurka. There are hiking trails through the forest from various points along this route.

The Riederfurka area has facilities – restaurants and self-service options. There is also the informative Pro Natura Centre (The building that looks a bit like a castle) with information on the glacier, flora & fauna – including the ancient forest – and the nature protection area. From Riederfurka it is a downhill walk to the village of Riederalp and the Riederallp West gondola station.

Riederalp West gondola

At the end of the walk, Riederalp village looked very inviting as somewhere to stop for a while. However, I needed to get back down and figure out where my accommodation was in Sierre.

Hiking around here is truly amazing – I would definitely recommend it but keep an eye on busy times – school holidays, weekends etc. as the Aletsch Arena is popular – as you would expect.

Map and details of my walk in the Aletsch Arena

Viewing areas – from East to West

Eggishorn is the highest viewing area in the Aletsch Arena (2,869m). It offers a 20km view of the Aletsch Glacier plus it is possible to view Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau on a clear day. 

Bettmerhorn (2,647 m). Apart from the viewing platform, there is a Glacier World Bettmerhorn multimedia exhibition. Bettmerhorn viewing platform is barrier-free

Moosfluh (2,333 m) & Hohfluh are reasonably close together and there is a stunning panorama hike between the two. Moosfluh offers a higher viewpoint of the glacier when looking one way, and the squiggly hiking trails can clearly be seen when looking towards the west. This platform is about 100 metres from the cable car.

HohFluh viewing point is where you have one of the best views of the glacier’s curves and also the forest nature reserve that slopes downwards toward the glacier.

Some public transport information for travelling up to the Aletsch Glacier, from Mörel, Betten & Fiesch in the Rhône Valley

Public Transport (2021) – please check below for operating times & sbb.ch for times & stops.

Trains operate from:Visp, end station Andermatt & Brig, end station Fiesh (via Betten)
Buses operate from:Brig, end station Fiesch
Regular connections:Sion and Sierre in the west and Bern, Spiez & Kandersteg in the north

Gondola & Cable car connections & operating times

Mörel to Moosfluh lookout and trails 1. Take Riederalp Mitte gondola to Riederalp. 2. Walk to Gletscherbahn Moosfluh, (a combination of gondolas & chairs in winter but only gondolas in summer).
Mörel to Hohfluh lookout and trails1. Take the Riederalp Mitte or Riederalp West gondolas to Riederalp. 2. Walk to Hohfluh chairlift. (limited operating times, see below).
Betten to Bettmerhorn lookout and trails1. Take the Bettmeralp cable car to Bettmeralp. 2. 15 minute walk to Bettmerhorn gondola. 3. Take the Bettmerhorn gondola.
Fiesch to Eggishorn lookout and trails1. Take the Fiesch gondola to Fiescheralp. 2. Take the Fiescheralp gondola to Eggishorn.

The Seasonal Operating Times 2021 (for up-to-date info go to either aletscharena.ch or sbb.ch):

Summer/Autumn 2021

5. June 2021 until 24. October 2021

  • Riederalp (Chair Lift) – Hohfluh
    3. July until 15. August 2021
  • Riederalp (Gondola) – Moosfluh
    5. June until 24. October 2021
  • Bettmeralp – Bettmerhorn
    5 June until 24 October 2021
  • Fiescheralp – Eggishorn
    5 June until 24 October 2021

Winter 2021/2022

8. December 2021 until 18. April 2022

7 Sep 2021

Hiking the Gemmipass – A Must-Do Swiss Classic

by | posted in: Adventure, Away from the crowds - summer, Ideas for walks | 0

Daubensee (2207m). Photo by A.Leggett

The Gemmi is a historical crossing of the northern Alpine chain. This north/south crossing – between Kandersteg and Leukerbad, was once a significant route used by the Celts, Romans, and the Alemanni (Germanic tribes). For hundreds of years, it was also a crossing point for nobility, writers and artists alike. Attractions such as its incredible wild beauty, the thermal baths in Leukerbad, and its convenience as a crossing all played parts in its popularity.

Today it is considered to be the “Klassiker der Schweizer Wanderklassiker,” which translates as the classic of the Swiss hiking classics.

The Landscape

The hiking path, popular with the Swiss, passes through an amazing natural environment – from boulder-strewn landscapes, past alpine lakes & rugged cliffs rising abruptly upwards, to soft meadows with ancient trees and the most incredible sweeping views to look at every step of the way.

Getting There

Trains frequently run through the Rhône Valley and are a great way to start your journey up into the mountains, both north and south.

Train & Bus:

Trains run from the main Rhône Valley towns – Sion, Sierre, Visp and Leuk, and from the north – Interlaken & Spiez, to Leuk (731m).

Buses connect at Leuk train station(731m) to Leukerbad(1,411m) – (no train service for this route).

The road up to Leukerbad is steep with numerous switchbacks – approx. 30 mins. From here you can walk for 11 mins or take a connecting bus (see sbb.ch for all train and bus timetables)

The Hike – Leukerbad Cable Car (Valais) to Kandersteg, Sunnbüel Cable Car (Bernese Oberland)

Distance:

8.5 km (+ 2 km diversion for Arven Forest circular walk)

Best Time of Year:

June – Oct (although this pass can also be visited in winter for winter walking and sports)

Duration:

2.5 hrs (3-3.5 hrs incl. circular walk through Arven Forest)

Difficulty:

Moderate, reasonable stamina (and good hiking boots).

Descent/Ascent:

475 m/71m

Status of Pass & Gondolas:

Leukerbad Tourism Website – up-to-date info.

Sunnbüel Cable Car & Gemmi Cable Car – Warning: the Sunnbüel cable car mountain station currently (08/21) only accepts cash.

A Gemmi Pass hiking map can be found at the bottom of this page.

Gemmi Trail

Don’t get the Gemmi Pass hike confused with the Gemmi Trail. The Trail is a difficult ascent from Leukerbad up to the top of the Gemmi cable car. It is extremely challenging (900 metres in 2 hours) but would also be a great achievement. You would be following in the footsteps of some famous names – Goethe, Mark Twain, Lenin and Picasso (according to the Leukerbad Tourism site).

Gemmi Pass Hike

I did this walk a few years ago – it is one I had wanted to do for a while and was well worth the wait. The walk starts at the top of the thrilling Leukerbad cable car (can be done from either direction). From here, you follow the signposts pointing towards Kandersteg. The sign indicates that the hike takes 4 hours, however, that is only if you decide not to take the Sunnbüel cable car & bus at the end of this walk. (I confirmed this with some seasoned walkers).

  • Gemmi Pass

We soon came across Daubensee which lies at 2207m. Once reaching this impressive lake, you can see the path stretching off into the distance, giving an idea of what is coming up. The main path is on the right-hand side of the lake which was a bit of a relief to me as the other path, which you can also do, looked pretty challenging.

After the lake, you start to go downhill through rocky terrain, past loads of weather-beaten boulders. If you use your imagination, they start looking like strange creatures from another world.

At this point of the walk it is very tempting to stop for a drink or something to eat
The historical Schwarenbach Hotel can be seen in the distance
From the terrace

After about 30 minutes you can see the Schwarenbach restaurant in the distance. you can stop here for a drink or snack and, of course, a toilet break. The hiking trail goes between the tables on the terrace and past a small kiosk which sells postcards and, sometimes, sun hats etc. – very civilised.

From this point, the views change with most of the rocks and boulders now covered with plants and trees.

It is possible to do a small diversion into the Arven Forest (Arvenwald) after about 6 km into the walk. The diversion is clearly marked as a Rundweg (circular path) which will bring you back on the trail to Sunnbüel. Make sure to follow the yellow signposts and diamonds that show the way. This will also take you past two small lakes called Arvenseeli – however, these are often dried up in summer.

After the forest, there are several ascents. At this point, it’s pretty satisfying to look back to see how far you have come.

When arriving at the very welcoming Bergrestaurant Sunnbüel you can see views of the Kandersteg region including the impressive Gasterntal (Gastern Valley which I am visiting and will be writing about soon). The cable car is here and it leaves every half hour but, as with a lot of these cable cars, it goes more often during busy times.

There is also the option to walk down rather than take the cable car although I haven’t done this myself. Note: In the past, the Sunnbüel cable car wouldn’t accept credit cards, only cash.

The bus from the valley to Kandersteg (March 2024) leaves every hour (until 18:56 in summer) see sbb.ch for up-to-date information.

1 Aug 2021

How to Experience the Refreshing Thermal Tamina Gorge and Attention-Seeking Sculptures of Bad Ragaz

by | posted in: Away from the crowds - summer, Ideas for walks, Spa Towns | 0
Tamina River from one of the town’s bridges

Ways to experience the thermal water of Bad Ragaz

Bad RagARTz exhibition – Sculptures outdoors

The Thermal waters of Bad Ragaz

Bad Ragaz is a thermal resort surrounded by water. You can hear the Tamina river roaring through the town, making its way from deep inside the Tamina Gorge. Waterfalls feed the river as it carves its way through the rugged Tamina valley, to finally pour into the powerful Rhein. Meanwhile, the town’s elegantly designed fountains bubble away softly and the healing waters of the Tamina Thermal Baths gently soothe with their hot pools, massaging jets and steam rooms.

Aussenbad ©Heidiland Tourismus
Tamina Thermal Baths. A Leggett
Tamina Thermal Baths, Bad Ragaz in Canton St.Gallen

My first visit to Bad Ragaz and Termina Thermal Baths was a couple of years ago. A friend and I were browsing through Switzerland’s public transport website (sbb.ch) for relaxing day trip ideas. They offer combi deals – transport + activity or experience at discounted prices.

We found a good spa deal and neither of us had visited Bad Ragaz before, so off we went. We had a nice relaxing time and I recommend both the town and the spa for a place to recharge your batteries.

The things I thought made this day spa experience special were:

  • The mountain views from the outdoor pool.
  • The steam room – outside the sauna area (where you can keep on your bathing suit)
  • The opportunity to join in a mineral salt experience – which includes being handed your mineral salts
  • The beautifully designed building with huge oval windows.
  • The large amount of jets – in the large indoor and outside pool.

… and of course, a relaxing walk through the resort’s lovely town then a coffee or spritzer at a cafe before the train trip home. This definitely adds to the experience.

What the Spa offers outside the sauna area:

  • Large indoor pool 34°C
  • Outdoor pool 34°C
  • Movement pool/sportpool 32°C
  • 2 x Spa pool 36.5C
  • Warm waterpool 39°C/ Coldwater pool 17°C
  • Steam room 45°C 100% humidity
  • A warm towel
  • Massage, sunbeds/collarium , Napshell® (extra cost)
  • Relax room
  • Bio-Textile-Sauna (gentle sauna) 65°C, 50% humidity
  • Mineral ceremony in main indoor pool area
  • Peeling Bar

Walk to the Taminaschlucht (Tamina Gorge)

Length:

Bad Ragaz – Tamina Gorge 5km

Season and opening times for Tamina Gorge:

Open daily 10am-5:15pm; May to end of October. For exact dates see Altes Bad Pfäfers website.

Alternative to walking:

Bus 453 to Altes Bad Pfäfers at the beginning of Tamina Gorge. Go to sbb.ch (Bad Ragaz to Altes Bad Pfäfers) for timetables.

Height Difference:

170m gradual climb.

Entrance fee for the gorge:

The cost is CHF5 pp (Aug 2023). This can be purchased either at the Altes Bad Pfäfers (entrance gate) or online.

Alternative routes to gorge:

Hiking from towns in hills above the gorge – Valens (925m), Pfäfers (848m) or Vättis (943m).

Exploring further:

Hike from the gorge to part of the Sardona Tectonic Arena – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To experience the formation of mountains and valleys.

Bus & hike or drive to the historic settlement of Sankt Martin, Pfäfers at the edge of an alpine reservoir – also found in the Sardona Tectonic Arena.

Scientists are still unsure about the origins of Tamina’s thermal water. It’s presumed that the waters originate from the Tödi region in canton Glarus, seeping down about 1,000 metres underground. This causes the water to warm and, after about 10 years, it gradually rises through crevasses into the gorge. The mineral water temperature is a constant 36.5 Celsius at the point it emerges, and is soft and free from bacteria. This Grand Resort Bad Ragaz video explains it all perfectly:

There have been thermal baths here since the 16th Century. A museum and information about the story of the baths and the thermal waters can be found at the Altes Bad Pfäfers (old Pfäfers baths) and inside the gorge.

After leaving the town it is a short walk to the Tamina Valley walking trail:

This walk begins at the centre of Bad Ragaz and follows the Badtobelweg. This narrow road runs alongside the Tamina river and ends at the enclosed part of the Tamina gorge (about 4.5 km). The only vehicle allowed on this road is bus 453 that runs from Bad Ragaz train station.

Tamina Valley walk to gorge – bbq and bus stop. A Leggett
by bbq spot – Tamina Valley approx. halfway point with bus stop
The Badtobel grill and picnic spot offer a great place to stop and eat in a lovely setting. There are toilets, benches and tips on different ways to cook your sausages. This place doubles as the Badtobel bus stop.

The post bus easily manages to fit through the gap.

There are plenty of opportunities to cool off. Water cascades or trickles down the rockface all along the walk.

The gorge becomes wild and rugged in places – giving the gorge a tropical feel.

Walking under the TaminaBrücke (Tamina Bridge). The largest arched bridge in Switzerland.

Facing the old Pfäfers Baths from the entrance to springs.

Once reaching the gorge through a large opening and turnstile, there is a fenced-off walkway curving alongside the rockface, with water spraying past, and sometimes directly onto it – so expect to get a bit wet when entering.

There is an entrance charge for this enclosed part of the gorge. Tickets are available at the old baths Pfäfer which you walk through just before entry. There is a light show that accentuates the curves of the inner gorge’s walls. These lights are reasonably subtle and double as lighting so you can see where you are going.

Down the rabbit hole….

Once you get to the end of the walkway there are two doors with years 1969 and 1987 written above them – The original entry from the old baths closed in 1969 so this door is closed and locked, however, 1987 opens out to a narrow, dimly lit tunnel. When following the tunnel the temperature rises until finally reaching a dead end. Here is a warm natural spring so you can feel the thermal waters for yourself while reading the information panels. So no white rabbits or mad hatters down here…

When passing back through the altes Bad Pfäfers, there is a kiosk with seating outdoors, a cafe inside and, as mentioned earlier, a museum where the original thermal bathing rooms and a kitchen are displayed.

It is now possible to take a bus back or continue walking to other towns above the gorge.

Fascinating sculptures in the Bad Ragartz Exhibition

Bad RagARTz

Runs from: May-November 2021

(and then every three years)

Entrance Fee: Free

Website: Bad RagARTz.ch

Impressions

This open-air exhibition takes place in and around the town every 3 years and is considered to be the largest open-air sculpture display in Europe. The last exhibition (2021) showcased 83 artists from 16 countries.

It is free to view unless you want to take a guided tour. For me, the interactive sculptures were the best. I was able to add my head to a sculpture full of heads, walk up the stairs of a rusty metal structure and bounce on a beam that sunk partially underground. There are plenty of other pieces where kids can clamber over, through or climb on, however, some sculptures are NOT interactive, indicated with a polite do not touch sign. Also, what are those apes looking at??

14 Jul 2021

Finding Picturesque Vineyards & Award-Winning Wines in The Bündner Herrschaft Region

by | posted in: Away from the crowds - summer, Ideas for walks, vineyards and wine-growing towns | 0

The Bündner Herrschaft wine region

The Bündner Herrschaft is the largest and best-known wine-growing region in Canton Graubunden. The region’s sunny location, frequent warm winds (föhn) and porous soil provide perfect conditions for grapes to thrive. First-class wines have been made here for centuries.

This area offers:

  • wine tasting at numerous Torkels (cellars) throughout the region including the famous Blauburgunder (Pinot Noir).
  • ancient ruins and historically significant buildings.
  • quiet medieval villages surrounded by vineyards and orchards, perfect for walking through.
  • idyllic forest paths
  • the small historical Älplibahn twin cable cars rises to 1800 metres above sea level for hiking through alpine meadows & mountain peaks.
  • hike across the many vineyard parcels.
  • sweeping views of vines and mountains.
  • restaurant or vineyard terraces with views across the wide Rhein Basin.
  • picnic spots, plenty of benches and BBQ areas.
  • the oldest documented winery in Europe at Schloss Salenegg. Wines were pressed here as early as 1068.
  • Heidi’s house from Joanna Spyri books
Click here to discover more on canton Graubünden

My Experience

I visited this region in early July which seemed to be a perfect time. At this time of year, the vines are heavy with bright green leaves and small bunches of tiny grapes soak up the hot summer sun. Colourful roses are all around, and the meadows are full of wildflowers. Sounds like I am about to break into a song, but that is what it was like.

I decided to walk some of the Weinwanderweg (Wine walking trail) which passes through vineyards and villages, to learn about the process of making wine in this region. Clear information panels are available along the trail explaining the whole process from Spring to Winter; from planting the first vines to replacing the old ones. There were people working hard in the fields and the small tractors, specially designed to move between the vines, were busily doing their thing while I walked.

I found the whole experience including the views, smells and of course taste of the wine the perfect day trip for a break from the everyday. It felt a little bit like I had travelled deep into the vineyards of the Mediterranean, rather than a few kilometres off the main north/south motorway from Zürich to southern Switzerland.

Getting There, Distances and Where to Eat Outdoors

My walk; Through the Vineyards from Malans to Maienfeld

Village of Jenins, Vineyards, Tastings and Tours

Getting around and eating outdoors

Fastest connection by train and bus – sbb.ch:

Zürich – Maienfeld, changing at Sargans — 1 hour 5 mins

Zürich – Malans, changing at Landquart to bus 22 — 1 hour 14 mins

Lucerne- Maienfeld, 2 hours via Zürich HB.

Bus 22 operates between Landquart and Maienfeld:

From Landquart train station arriving across the road from Malan’s train station in 5-7 mins. *From here is easy to take off into the countryside for a morning, afternoon or day of exploring.)

Stops include Älplibahn cable car & Jenin.

Driving from:

Zürich – Maienfeld, takes approx. 1 hour 15mins – 100 km

Lucerne – Maienfeld, takes approx. 1 hour 30 mins – 124 km, via Lake Zürich

Chur – Maienfeld, takes 15 mins, 20 km

Lanquart – Maienfeld, takes 5 min – 5 km

Walking from:

Landquart – Malans, 2km – 30 mins.

Landquart – Jenins, via Malans, 5 km – 1 hour

Maienfeld – Jenins, 2.7 km – 40 mins.

Maienfeld – Malans, via Jenins, 6 km – 1 hour 15 mins

BBQ spot just of the wine trail

This region offers some lovely restaurants, inns and wineries with terraces to take in the lovely scenery and fresh county air. There are also plenty of places available if you wish to prepare your own food or having a takeaway or picnic.

Find a Bench – These can be found almost anywhere. I found several alongside the walking tracks – often in the shade of trees or hedges and also dotted around the paths that run between the parcels of vines. Some even have the name of the vineyard carved on them.

Have a BBQ – Various BBQ spots with excellent facilities like grills, wood and tables can be found around this area (see map below).

Sit on a Restaurant Terrace – There are a lot of well-positioned terraces that face towards the great expanse of vines and Rhein Valley beyond. A couple I found in Jenins are close together – Alter Torkel which has an up-market style of food, and the Landgasthof zur Bündte. This hotel with restaurant has been in the same family for 5 generations (back to 1888).

  • Bad Ragaz – is a spa town across the Rhein in canton St. Gallen. This town straddles the impressive Tamina River which roars its way into the Tamina Gorge – there is a shaded walk alongside the Tamina river to the narrow gorge which is lit up to show off its impressive curves and cliffs. Bad Ragaz is also the place to take the Pizolbahnen (cable car) up to a popular walk – the 5 Lake Walk at the top of Pizol mountain.
  • Landquart Outlet Village – Outlet stores in a pretty village setting with over 160 brands.
  • Chur – The main town and main transport hub of Graubünden. Chur has a lovely enclosed old-town.
  • Fläsch – This is the most northern wine-growing town of the Bündner Herrschaft region. It has won the Wakker Prize 2010 for good town planning that preserved the orchards and vinyards within the towns boundries. Worth checking out because: There are 14 self-pressing viticulture companies in Fläsch. For more information go to their website.
  • To find out more about the incredibly diverse Graubünden region go to my canton Graubünden page.

My Walk Through The Vineyards – from Malans to Maienfeld

This area is spread out like a patchwork quilt on the gentle slopes above the Rhein plains. The north/south highway and railway line run directly alongside a straight section of the Rhein giving easy access to the area. The main towns are Landquart and Maienfeld with smaller towns like Malans also on the rail line. Buses connect the higher wine-growing villages and some small cable cars to train stations.

This was a decent 2-hour walk but it is just as easy to do smaller sections around the villages or try out many other trails that criss-cross the region.

Some impressions of the area from Malans to Jenins

The Village of Jenins

Jenins has narrow lanes with historical buildings, elegant mansions and old wooden houses clustering together, giving the village a cosy feel. Every now and the narrow streets and lanes lead to small squares with fountains. Grape vines seem to be growing everywhere; covering fences and crawling up houses as well as filling green spaces in and around the village.

According to Jenins’ website, this town has always had a policy of protecting its heritage, which includes the buildings, businesses and land, ensuring that modern buildings could not, for the most part, be built within the town, or onto the cultivated land around it – leaving the wineries in the area untouched for hundreds of years.

The locals seemed to support this leading to the avoidance of any building booms and also ensured that family-run business stayed within the families. The vineyards (around 44 hectares) are firmly in private hands, while the pasture areas belong to the municipality. 

Alpine farming

The traditional Swiss method of using the high altitude meadows, is of great importance in Jenins: In summer the cows climb up to the 2,373 meter high summit of the Vilan in search of tasty grasses and herbs. 

Contacting the winemakers in Jenins

These Jenins vineyards and cellars can be visits by appointment or have opening times. Another option is to check out the wine festivals – all information is on the websites. This is just a small example of what is available in the region.

Luzi and Ottilie Jenny-Willi
Viticulture and self-pressing
www.luzijenny.ch

Jakob Ulrich Johanni
Weinbau/Viticulture
www.johanniweine.ch

Christian and Stig Jenny-Overvoll
Weinbau/Viticulture
www.jennyweine.ch

Obrecht Weine
Jürg Obrecht
Viticulture / Wine Trade
www.obrechtweine.ch

House of Graubünden Wine, Old Torkel

Around 70 wine producers belong to the Graubünden Wine Association. The association has a presentation room attached to the Old Torkel Restaurant which sits above the vines on the edge of Jenins.

You can come here for tastings, information about the wines of the region and to book public guided tours of the vineyards.

Recent information on the Heidiland tourism website states: It is possible to do a 90-minute tour through the vines followed by a tasting, without reservation every Friday at 4.30 pm from April to October. Contact the House of Graubünden Wines, Jeninserstrasse 3, 7307 Jenins, Phone +41 (0)81 302 87 08, Email [email protected]

History and Heidi

Maienfeld, 502m, the «third city on the Rhine», lies at the foot of the striking Falknis, on the east side of the Rhine valley. The fact that Maienfeld, with 2500 inhabitants, can call itself a city dates back to city rights granted in the 15th century. At that time, Maienfeld stood at the intersection of historic military and transit roads on the Rhine valley and Walensee route. The old town with its impressive mansions and Salenegg and Brandis Castles today rates as a cultural asset of national importance.

In addition to wine and the international horse races in, October, Maienfeld owes its fame to Heidi, the figure from the world-famous children’s story by Johanna Spyri, published in 1880/1881 and translated into over 50 languages. Most of the story is set in the hamlet of Oberrofels, directly above Maienfeld. Today a Heidi Path leads from Maienfeld into a reproduced Heidi village, where a small living museum has been opened in the original Heidi house. There is also a hike called the “Heidi Trail” that goes up to Heidi Alp at 1111m, then back to Maienfeld via Vadella – Jenins.

5 Jul 2021

Where to find Paradise in Central Switzerland

by | posted in: Away from the crowds - summer, Ideas for walks | 0

From Schwyz up the Rotenflue Cable Car

Hiking near Rotenflue, Photo by A.Leggett
Grosser Mythen with zig-zag hiking trail just visible, Photo by A.Leggett
Looking towards Ibergeregg from Rotenflue. A.Leggett
View from Rotenflue, Photo by A.Leggett
Bench covered in snow near Mountain Restaurant Zwäcken, Photo ba A.Leggett

updated December 2021

Schwyz to Rotenflue summit

Lush green pastures, forest-covered slopes and craggy peaks surround the town of Schwyz. A trip up the Rotenflue cable car gives a great panorama of all this as well as the Alps, Vierwaldstättersee (Lake Lucerne) and Lauerezsee (Lake Lauer). All slowly come into view as you glide up to the mountain station at 1571 metres above sea level.

The cable car takes 15 minutes to climb from Rickenbach (neighbouring town of Schwyz) up to Rotenflue; the start of an idyllic natural landscape. From here it is possible to walk through nearby Moorland, meadows and forests or relax in the mountain inns, at BBQ spots or on panorama benches.

How to get there

Suggestions of What to do and where to go . . .

Detailed signposts make it easy to find your way

Eating & Relaxing

Summer and Spring

Nearby Grill Spots

Grill spots can be found within easy walking distance of the top station. Four grill spots close to the mountain station are:

  • Kreuz – an official Swiss Family BBQ spot. 300m south of the cable car
  • Heublätz – 200m below the Restaurant Gipfelstubli
  • Gruebi/Chänzeli – an official Swiss Family BBQ spot 800m from cable car, direction Holzegg
  • Holzweid

Ordering a Picnic Basket (Picnic Korb)

In summer, it is possible to pick up a picnic basket and seat cover from the Gipfelstubli restaurant, situated at the top Rotenflue cable car station. There are currently (July 2021) three variants:

  1. The Classic ( Klassische) incl. mineral water, home made ice tea
  2. The Festive (Festliche) incl. Prosecco
  3. The Love Affair… (direct translation from Die Liebelei) incl. Champagne

All offer food such as fresh fruit, dried fruit, bread, mineral water, cheese and sausages. (extras like vegetables, pasta salad and dessert for The Festive & The Love Affair). Also included are cups, picnic dishes and cutlery.

All Year

Berggasthäuse (Mountain Inns)

  • Restaurant Gifelstubli
  • Burggasthaus Rotenfluh
  • Burggasthaus Holzegg
  • Alp Zwäcken Wirtschaft & Käserei (mountain inn & cheese diary)
  • and finally, not nearby, Grosser Mythen Restaurant, right on the peak at 1,898m (no accommodation and cash only).

Photo: Grosser Mythen Restaurant at the top of Grosser Mythen – thanks to Stephan Aebi on Unsplash for taking this photo!

hiking & Winter Activities – easy and challenging

Nature Protection Area Ibergeregg

What kind of hikes are available:

  • Circular hikes
  • Combination hikes (german) – Summer – Public transport/hike/food; Winter – snowshoe hike with map/fondue meal at Hotel Passhöhe/snowshoe hire.
  • Mountain climbing up Mythen on the Mythenweg – Summer/Autumn
  • Moorland hiking in Ibergeregg (see one option below)
  • No real purpose – just follow the yellow signs (the ones with white/red/white at the point are more challenging)
  • Winter hiking and snow shoe trails (see below)

A Popular Combination Hike – Any time of year

This walk is also possible as a winter walk and with snowshoes – and from both directions. We did this one recently (Dec. 2021) from Ibergeregg. It was holiday time so reasonably busy. This was down to the perfect skiing conditions, perfect weather and was during the Christmas holidays. Was a wonderful experience with wonderful views and very entertaining watching the sledders flying past. This path also crosses some ski pistes.

The region between Ibergeregg, Holzegg and Rotenflue offers plenty of well-signposted Snowshoe trails and various skiing possibilities including a ski safari for the adventurous. It is 14 km and takes about 3 hours. Contact [email protected] for more details.

Circular Walk with lookout points, Restaurant Terraces and a BBQ spot

Mythen Region Transport Links – up to Rotenflue

Train — Bus — Rotenflue Cable Car

Train to Schwyz (offering some wonderful scenery along the way)

From Zürich – 1 hr, incl. change at Zug or Arth Goldau. Onward to Locarno.

From Lucerne – 40-50 mins; From Zug – 30 mins

Bus from Schwyz train station to Rotenflue Cable Car – summer and autumn only

Bus Nr. 503 – operates regularly in both directions, stopping at Schwyz town centre. Journey time: 12-16 mins.

Bus Nr. 505 – operates regularly in both directions, stopping at Schwyz town centre. Journey time: 9-11 mins.

Rotenflue Cable Car

Open: 8th May – 2nd July daily from 9am – 5pm; 3rd July – 31st Oct. daily from 8.30am – 5.30pm; 1st November – beginning ski season daily from 9am – 4.3 pm. (dates for 2021). For up-to-date information go here.

26 Jun 2021

Beautiful BBQ Spots I Discovered on my Walks and How to Find Your Own – Part 1

by | posted in: Away from the crowds - summer, Ideas for walks | 0

View of Lake Lucerne from Seelisberg Hoch Flue, Photo by A.Leggett

There are thousands of places to grill in Switzerland, guaranteeing that you will stumble across at least one on your walks or sightseeing trips. However, sometimes it can help to be guided in the right direction. I know from experience that it can be frustrating to find the perfect BBQ spot but not have the right equipment – nothing to put the meat patties, skewer, or squeaky cheese on, for example.

For this reason, I would recommend checking out websites like schweizerfeuerstellen.ch. Schweizer Familie is a long-running Swiss magazine. They have a website dedicated to advising on some of the better grill spots throughout the country. It’s in German but simple to use. Add the name of the area you wish to visit to find options with maps, pictures, facilities and a 360-degree video.

Another option is to check out the local tourism websites such as lucerne.ch. This link includes a map view, of over 150 BBQ sites in central Switzerland.

The websites also advise on whether you need to bring anything with you. Some grills have everything except the food & cutlery, whereas others are just firepits. Sometimes things like a grill plate, wood, benches, tables and shade are available, other times just a circle of stones… In both circumstances, however, you will often find a whittled-down stick, ready to disinfect in the fire then use for stabbing your sausage or marshmallows.

Checking for any Restrictions on Grilling in and around Forests

waldbrandgefahr.ch is a great website to find out at a glance what is happening around the country regarding up-to-date restrictions on grilling in the open with a colour-coded map and warning levels.

Over the years we have found some really nice places to grill. Below are some I consider to be extra special – however, I am still looking and will post more as I come across them.

Appenzell Innerrhoden

Sämtisersee from Hoher Kasten

Sämtisersee – This location can only be reached by foot. There are lovely walks from the top of Hoher Kasten cable car, down to the alpine lake, then back across to the cable car station at Brülisau. Wood is sometimes available and there should be a grill.

  • Simple BBQ grill
  • Lake Sämtisersee – looking towards Fählensee
  • Wood pile for BBQ

We recently hiked from the top of the cable car, down to the two lakes in the valley (July 2023). The BBQ is in a prime position on the lake and is also a great place for picnicking and swimming. It is close to the forested area offering a bit of shade. Another option for food and drink is the Mountain Guest House Plattenbödeli just up from the lake.

Reason to stop here: To sit and eat right beside this idyllic alpine lake nestled in a mountainous landscape.

How to get there: By Car: From Zürich, approx. 1 hr 20 mins (via A1 around Winterthur). From Appenzell, 10 mins. By Train: From Zürich, 2 hrs with 2 changes. From Appenzell, 15 mins with 1 change. Good to know: This is also a great place to picnic & there is a restaurant close by called Plattenbödeli if the firepit doesn’t work out.

St. Gallen Canton: Above & Beside Walensee

Alongside Walensee

It won’t take long to find several grilling spots when walking from the town of Weesen along the northern side of Walensee (Lake Walen) – some with grills, others without.

Reason to stop here: We have used the one at Betlis several times. It offers great facilities (including toilets) and a chance to walk to the impressive Seerenbach waterfalls in one direction, and some smaller, shaded firepits, a port area for boat trips and a small swimming beach in the other direction (the path in the pictures leads to the second option).

Above Walensee – Amden

The small town of Amden is a good starting point for many excursions high in the meadows and hills above Walensee. It is quintessential Switzerland – the area is even called Heidiland. You will see traditional farms, goats with bells, meadows full of wildflowers, Beizlis and mountain inns.

The Mattstock chair lift in the centre of Amden is really the only way of getting up to higher hiking tracks (apart from hiking). We tried to drive up to the top cable car station – the roads were good to a point then they narrowed and we found it very difficult to find a public road and there were no places to park – I don’t think we were supposed to go there by car… So, I recommend using the chair lift. (It wasn’t operating during our visit).

There are also plenty of walks from Amden with BBQ spots. We used two Swiss Family BBQs in great locations; Feuerstelle Rombach is a short walk up behind the village and Girengärtli is a hike towards the cliffs.

Reason to stop here: High up above the lake within a forest. Quiet area with a viewing platform and plenty of facilities. Is also a good place to stop when walking further or simply as a destination.

Getting There

By Car: Takes 1 hour (66 km)

By Train & Bus: Zürich to Weesen (lakeside) – 1 hour, incl. a change at Ziegelbrücke for 7 min. bus trip. Weesen to Amden(mountain) is a further 10/15 mins with the bus.

Glarus

Klöntalersee in Spring
Obersee in Spring
Obersee close to a firepit
Obersee
Walking & Biking tracks at Obersee

Obersee & Klöntalersee

Klöntalersee is like a huge turquoise magnet. Its sheer beauty brings the crowds, especially at the weekend.

The alternative is this beautiful lake that we visited off-season recently – Obersee. This is also stunning and it has a restaurant right on the lakeshore. It can be more difficult to reach as Swiss public transport does not come to this lake.

The road is in good condition if a little narrow – meaning a slow drive. There are plenty of passing lanes if you meet someone coming the other way & there are biking trails starting at the valley.

Currently, both Obersee and Klöntalersee don’t have any grilling places or BBQs with facilities however firepits can be found around the lakes. You will need to bring your own grill, forage for firewood and have a Swiss army knife for carving sticks. Trees surround these lovely lakes with enough wood lying around for a decent fry-up – remember your matches!

Good to Know: There are 2 camping grounds at Klöntalersee and metered parking near Camping Güntlenau on the east side of the lake. This camping ground also has BBQ facilities available.

Reason to stop here: By using the firepits, you should avoid the crowds. These places are such naturally beautiful spots that it seems a shame to see it all from the distance of a terrace when you can have a front-seat view, sitting on a rock or a log.

Getting To Obersee & Klöntalersee:

Obersee by Car: from Näfels, 17 mins – 8 km; from Zürich, 1 hour – 70 km. By Public Transport: no connection to Obersee. Klöntalersee by Car: from Glarus, 16 mins – 10 km; By Public Transport: from Glarus by bus, 18 mins to the east of the lake.

Above Lake Lucerne

Marienhöhe
Marienhöhe – a place for views and forest walks
Look-out point off the track, looking down to the town of Seelisberg
Zig-zag track up to Brandegg, looking over Höch Flue
Walking in forest south-west of Seelisberg – Höch Flue
A simple firepit can be found at a Höch-Flue look-out point – don’t get too close to the edge…

Seelisberg

In the forests, high up above Lake Lucerne there are countless BBQ spots – my discoveries are around the small town of Seelisberg, on the west side of the lake in Canton Uri.

Marienhöhe can be found south of Seelisberg and has two grills offering great facilities including tables, benches, wood and a shelter.

Reason to stop here: The views of Lake Lucerne and the surrounding mountains, facilities and plenty of shade.

Getting There: The best way is to by boat on Lake Lucerne to Treib, then take the funicular up to Seelisberg. From here you can walk 20 minutes to Seelisberg, Oberdorf, then from the Volg mini-market go either south to the Marienhöhe – a nice walk through the forest, or turn off at Kapelle Maria Sonnenberg and go up the zig-zag trail to Hoch Flue, a much more challenging climb. If you want to visit Lake Seeli, then do the walk, take the bus from Seelisberg (funicular) to bus stop Seeli (dep. hourly – takes 4 mins).

Zug

Zugerberg

From Zugerberg funicular, there is a signpost covered in yellow signs pointing the way to loads of different walking possibilities. One particular grill spot is great for shade and views – Brand Feuerstelle. This is situated on the edge of a forest, overlooking a meadow to the mountains in the distance. They have huge tables and benches, viewing seating, wooden sculptures for children, and good BBQ facilities.

Reason to stop here: Brand Feuerstelle and others in this area offer spacious areas on the edge of the forest giving you a chance to spread out and find your own space. The kids play areas are also spread out, not simply next to the BBQ spots and, as mentioned earlier, they have good BBQ facilities.

Getting There: From the funicular top station turn right and follow the signs to Spielplatz Schattwaldi (forest adventure playground, also with grilling possibilities), then Feuerstelle (grilling place) and Aussichtspunkt (lookout point); about 20-30 minutes walk altogether.

Canton Zürich – alongside the Rhein

Eglisau

The pretty town of Eglisau is directly north of Zürich city and on the Rhein. This forested part of the Rhein has relaxing walks through a nature-protected area and vineyards. It is not possible to set up your own firepit but there are several good ones to choose from on both sides of the Rhein.

Reason to stop here: This is a peaceful part of the Rhine, covered in protected forests and partially lined with vineyards. Most BBQ spots offer a grill, seating, shade, boulders to play around and the Rhine to paddle in. When visiting Eglisau you can swim at the Strandbad (riverside baths) or go by boat to the impressive Rhine Falls. There are also some good launching sites for paddle boats.

Getting There: By Car: From Zürich city – approx. 30 minutes (26 km). By Public Transport: From Zürich HB – S9 train, direction Schaffhausen takes 32 mins (as of June 2021).

18 Jun 2021

My favourite out of the way places for stunning vistas – Part 1

by | posted in: Adventure, Away from the crowds - summer, Ideas for walks | 0

Nearly every place in Switzerland boasts stunning views, so I may have missed a few 100 ideas from my list. However, these are some of my personal favourites so far. They are idyllic spots with plenty of room for exploring. These places are peaceful and away from the crowds of tourists. Hoher Kasten however, is best visited during the week as it’s a popular spot for the Swiss.

I will continue to explore with my family and post a Part 2 some time soon…

1) Hoher Kasten, Appenzell

These views are from the Hoher Kasten cable car and viewing platforms at the top. Hiking trails lead down to nearby lakes, forests and valleys.

How to get there:

Train/Bus: Appenzell, to Brülisau-Hoher Kasten: Train to Weissbad, then bus to cable car station at Brülisau – 16 mins.

By Car: Appenzell to Hoher Kasten lower station: 10 mins – 6 km

What to do here: Visit the revolving restaurant, hike back down or do a themed trail. Or simply enjoy the views from the viewing terraces and platforms.

2) Ftan; looking across the valley to Tarasp castle, Graubünden

View of Castle Tarasp from across the valley
Photo by GabrielleMerk, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

The little village of Ftan is across the deep lower Engadin Valley. This village and its surrounding countryside offers unspoilt views of the impressive Tarasp Castle.

How to get there:

By Train: from Scuol, the largest town in the Lower Engadine valley, it takes 22 mins; from Landquart, 2 hrs 5 mins, with a change in Scuol.

By Car: From Landquart: Route 28, takes approx. 1 hr 30 – 71 km.

What to do around here: You can register for a guided tour of Tarasp Castle on their website. as well as plenty of hiking & biking, scenic trains trips, thermal baths at Scuol and skiing in winter.

3) Around Lake Seeli, looking over Lake Lucerne

Look out point close to Lake Seeli, looking southwards
Looking towards Lucerne

Seelisberg is a small town sitting on a shelf above lake Lucerne. It is reachable by a combination of boat and funicular or from Lucerne, by road.

There is a natural mountain lake called Lake Seeli which offers swimming possibilities and camping (no vehicles of any kind are allowed on the campsite).It is when you walk away from this town and lake that you will reach the stunning viewpoints shown in this picture. There are also benches, loungers and grill spots if you feel like sticking around for a bit.

I did a circular hike from the Seelisee bus stop (Seeli) to the lake and beyond, then through the town, upwards to the other side of the main road until reaching a sheer cliff… from here I walked alongside the cliff, then turned back down to the bus stop, (almost missing the hourly bus). For more details of this walk, go to my Uri & Lake Lucerne page.

How to get there:

By boat to Treib, then funicular: see sbb.ch

Train/Bus: Takes approx. 1 hour with change from train to a bus in Stans.

By Car: From Lucerne, take the A2 for 31 km to Seeli parking (30 mins).

What to do here: swim, have a picnic or grill, hike, and camp (in the official camping site by the lake).

4) Gandria, canton Ticino

Ticino

The photos are from the tiny town of Gandria on the side of Lake Lugano. The view is of the eastern arm of the lake, looking over the border into Italy. With the palm trees and bright blue sky, you could already imagine being in Italy.

How to get there:

By boat: From Lugano, takes 25-45 mins (for boat trips see my Canton Ticino site).

By Car: From Lugano: 15 mins, 5 km

What to do here: See my page on Canton Ticino for more on Gandria

5) Eglisau and the Rhein, Zürich Canton

Eglisau at sunrise
Wineries and farm cafes on route
The deep aquamarine colours of the water always look stunning.

There are lovely viewpoints at many places along the Rhein – from Germany to the source, Lai de Tuma, in canton Graubünden – considered the starting point. I have walked alongside and floated on the Rhein many times but this section, where the little medieval town of Eglisau sits on the banks, is one of my favourites. The bridge into Eglisau is a great viewpoint for seeing the lush green hills on either side. The town itself has well preserved historic buildings and a park area along the Rhein. From here there are trails through the forests giving more stunning views of the river on one side and, now and then, vineyards on the other. But best of all – it is off the normal tourist route.

How to get there:

By Train: From Winterthur: Takes 33 mins with 1 change. See sbb.ch.

By Car: From Winterthur: Takes 28 mins, 21 km

What to do here:

  • Walks up in the hills or down by the river.
  • Grilling by the river (only in allocated spots as this is a protected area)
  • Swimming in the Rhein at Eglisau or,
  • Boat trips on the Rhein

6) Wissifluh Cable car & Panorama Bench, Vitznau

From Wissifluh Gondola looking down on Vitznau campsite
Panorama Bench

From the lakeside town of Vitznau, canton Lucerne, it is possible to walk or drive to 2 gondolas. The bottom stations are next to each other, each with car parking.

The Wissifluh gondola is self-service. Basically, you will need to order a gondola and a maximum of 4 people can fit inside.

There are clear instructions in German and English explaining, in steps, what to do to “call” the gondola down and how to get moving once you are inside… It can be a bit disconcerting but, once you start seeing the views and have alighted at the top (after the top station’s little door slides open) you will soon stop shaking. It is a peaceful area with farms and meadows, and of course, the famous Panorama Bench to distract you from thinking about your trip back down.

How to get there: Train or boat from Lucerne: See sbb.ch for the timetable options. Each option takes about 1 hour. Driving: From Lucerne city centre: 35-45 mins – 26 km.

What to do here: Important points: 1. You pay on arrival at the top station. 2. Often these farm restaurants only take cash.

7) Seealpsee, Appenzell Innerrhoden

Seealpsee with the peak of Säntis in the middle distance

There is only one way to reach this lake – hike. The walking trail from Wasserauen to here is a great opportunity to experience the dramatic natural environment of the Alpstein Massif. See my Appenzell page for more information about the hike to Seealpsee and other options around this region.

Getting There:

By Train: Appenzell town to Wasserauen – regular departure. Travel Time: 13 mins.

By Car: Appenzell to Wasserauen – 11 mins drive – 7 km. Zürich to Wasserauen – 1.15 hrs – 100 km

What to do here:

Hiking, cable car rides,visiting the Mountain Inns on the lake and further above and for the experienced hiker/climber attempt to hike up Säntis.

8 Jan 2021

Who I am and why I love going off the beaten track in Switzerland …

by | posted in: Who am I? | 0
In Appenzell – A place that reminds me of New Zealand

I would like to introduce myself and let you know why I am doing this blog. My husband and I originally come from New Zealand. Although we have lived in Zürich canton, Switzerland for over 10 years, along with our two Swiss-born children and two rabbits.

I grew up on a sheep farm in the middle of nowhere. In fact, if you can imagine the middle of nowhere – I was in the middle of that.

So moving here was a bit of a shock – I am now in the middle of everything. Luckily one of my favourite pastimes is exploring and Europe has always fascinated me.

There are definite similarities between Switzerland and New Zealand, mostly geographical. They both have stunning, dramatic scenery and remote, quiet corners (although I think New Zealand tips the scales on that last one).

However, Switzerland has a completely different feel about it. There are the historical villages where you feel as if you have stepped back in time, the alpine lakes that are warm enough to swim in. There are traditions and practices that go back hundreds of years, like the Fasnacht carnival with music, confetti, and fancy dress, or the Alpzeit processions to move the livestock up and down the mountains. The list goes on…

In canton Uri with the family

I just love this place and want to share my discoveries with others, especially people that prefer getting away from the crowds to find the quieter, more remote spots. I will continue to explore (lucky me) and write. I hope I can do Switzerland’s off-the-beaten-track justice.

19 Nov 2020

Travel products that take you deep into the Swiss Alps

by | posted in: How to find | 0

Photo by Ricardo Gomez Angel on Unsplash

The public transport system is an easy and fun way to get around the country and is often part of the adventure. Trains, buses, trams, boats, cable cars – big and small and funiculars will take you past, up, down and through spectacular landscapes. I am still amazed at how the seemingly unreachable corners of the country are reachable to anyone. You will sometimes need to be brave when gliding up the edge of mountains or zig-zagging around a steep switchback road, but rest assured, Switzerland does have an excellent safety record and these train, bus and cable car operators are experts at what they do. One of my favourite forms of transport is the traditional yellow post buses that wind their way daily through every part of the country to transport locals and tourists.

To help you to experience some of these amazing transport links I have listed both the various offers to tourists and the Grand Train Tour of Switzerland‘s network connection recommendations

Grand Train Tour of Switzerland

Top of Hoher Kasten cable car, Appenzell

The Grand Tour of Switzerland is a 1,600 km circular road trip, recommended by the tourist board for taking in the best parts of Switzerland by car. Included on these routes are large red frames that reveal views of iconic places like Montreux, Interlaken and Lucerne as well as some hidden gems such as in the hills of the Gruyère and Emmental regions, parts of the UNESCO Sardona Arena, overlooking St. Gallen and up cable cars in Appenzell.

Switzerland tourism has come up with a brilliant way to see the country by public transport. The Grand Train Tour merges 1,380 km of panoramic train journeys, giving visitors the chance to combine routes that pass through top destinations spread throughout Switzerland. The Grand Train Tour of Switzerland App can be found online at switzerlandtravelcentre.com, or for travel suggestions, prices, timetables and a downloadable pdf guide go to sbb.ch/leisure-holidays. It is also possible to pick up a booklet from the Swiss Travel desks found at most train stations.

For an idea of travelling times between points see below:

  • Zürich-Lucerne-Interlaken: 2 3/4 hours
  • GoldenPass (Montreux – Gstaad – Interlaken): 3 3/4 hours
  • Montreux – Visp – Zermatt: 2 1/2 hours
  • Glacier Express (Zermatt – Chur – St. Moritz): 7 3/4 hours
  • Bernina Express (St. Moritz – Tirano – Lugano): 6 3/4 hours
  • Gotthard Panorama Express (Lucerne – Flüelen – Lugano): 5 1/2 hours
  • Voralpen Express (Lucerne – Rapperswil – St. Gallen): 2 1/4 hours
  • St. Gallen – Schaffhausen – Zürich: 2 1/2 hours

Getting to know the Tickets, Passes & Discounts

Brienzer Rothorn Mountain Train, Photo by A.Leggett

All information below is valid as of March 2024. For up-to-date ticket prices and types please go to sbb.ch.

Supersaver Tickets

For one-way or day trips it’s worth looking at the super saver ticket option online. They are not always available but you don’t know until you look so it is worth trying this option:

  • Go to sbb.ch (you can change the language to English)
  • Enter from/to, then date, and approx. time. Once you have done this it will give you a choice of connections.
  • When the price (shown to the right of each connection) has a % sign and is highlighted in black – this is the super saver ticket price. If the price is in white, then no supersaver ticket is available for that route (If you are flexible with dates, click on the change option beside the chosen date and time then try another date).
  • Click on the red ticket box and follow your nose.
  • If there is no super saver ticket for that route, you may still find one for the return journey.
  • Go to singe/return journey options – click return.
  • You are given train options and a choice of ticket. This will tell you if there are any savings on the return journey (with the black box and % icon).
  • NOTE: IF you go for the supersaver ticket, then you can only travel at the times that you have chosen.
  • Go back and put in your details and add other passenger details – following instructions from then on. Happy Saving!

Day Pass and Saver Day Pass – 1 ticket for travelling throughout the country on a given day

If booking ahead it is possible to make big savings on a nationwide pass.

The Day Pass is a ticket that allows you to purchase a discounted ticket for anywhere in Switzerland, within the GA area.

The Saver Day Pass allows you to pre-book a nationwide ticket up to 60 days ahead – the earlier you book the more likely you will find a good deal. To do this you go to sbb.ch website, go to tickets and offers/tickets/day passes/saver day pass or search Saver Day Pass and the option to purchase will give more details of daily prices. Is also possible without a half-fare card.

Standard tickets and Day Passes

Apart from the special passes detailed below, you can purchase either single or return tickets for single trips, in 1st or 2nd class. These can be done online at www.sbb.ch, or at a ticket counter at most train stations.

When overnighting

Worth knowing … When using accommodation in most areas – you are entitled to a guest card (after paying a small tourism tax amount per person). This option gives you free or discounted travel on local public transport and discounts on activities in the area you are staying in. Ask at your accommodation.

Public Transport offers for visitors to Switzerland

Below I have listed the current Swiss Travel Passes (3/24) for anyone living outside Switzerland. – as always, this is subject to change. You can find out more from myswitzerland.com/rail.

Go to the Tickets and offers/Tickets/Guests from Abroad/Swiss Travel Pass to purchase a ticket online. The advantages such as discounts etc. will be listed here. (Or purchase them by visiting the major train stations or even from your country).

For multi-day pass options and prices see below:

Covers: Unlimited travel by train, bus and boat including premium panoramic trains (seat reservation fees not included) – mentioned in my post ‘Find Unique and Special Ways to Travel Cross-Country‘.

Important to know: Mountain excursions included: Rigi, Stanserhorn and Stoos, up to 50% discount on other mountain excursions and free admission to more than 500 museums.

Days (consecutive)

3 days

4 days

6 days

8 days

15 days

Covers: Young ones (up to 26th birthday) can receive a 30% discount off the standard price of a Swiss Travel Pass – (see above). Valid: 3, 4, 6, 8 or 15 consecutive days.

Covers: Unlimited travel by train, bus and boat including premium panoramic trains (seat reservation fees not included) – mentioned in my post ‘Find Unique and Special Ways to Travel Cross-Country‘.

Important to know: Mountain excursions included: Rigi, Stanserhorn and Stoos, up to 50% discount on other mountain excursions and free admission to more than 500 museums.

Days in 1 Month

3 days

4 days

6 days

8 days

15 days

Covers: Youths (up to 26th birthday) can receive a 15% discount off the standard price of a Swiss Travel Pass Flex (see above). Valid: 3, 4, 6, 8 or 15 freely selectable days within 1 month.

Swiss Half Fare Card

Covers: This is a discount card. So, you will pay for the tickets but get up to 50% discount on trains, buses, boats and most mountain railways and public transport in more than 90 towns and cities. Valid: for 1 month.( I have one of these handy cards. You will find most trips are discounted 50%). For price and offers for children (children up to 16 yrs travel free of charge when accompanied by an adult with half fare card). See sbb.ch (Tickets & Offers/ Tickets/Guests from Abroad/Swiss Half Fare Card).

Swiss Family Card

Covers: free family card for holders of Swiss Travel System Tickets. Children from their 6th birthday travel free of charge when accompanied by at least one parent with a valid Swiss Travel System ticket.

15 Nov 2020

Find unique and special ways to travel cross-country

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Landwasser Viaduct @
Close to Zermatt @Glacier Express
Oberalppass @glacier Express
Engadin Valley @ Glacier Express

Photos from @ Glacier Express

Although there are a small number of impressive train trips on offer in New Zealand, the public transport system shadows in comparison to Switzerland. This is especially obvious in the countryside and farming communities, so to find a country with such an extensive, well-run public transport network is a huge bonus for me.

I do, of course, understand that Switzerland’s transport system is world-class with historically significant engineering accomplishments which are a result of the need to tackle incredibly challenging mountainous terrain.

For me, however, it was all about exploration and learning about my new home. I would take off all over the country, changing from trains to buses; trams to boats; cog railways to funiculars and was always amazed at how the connections were seamless and everything ran like clockwork.

My husband and I have now been living here for over 16 years and have both managed to travel the width and breadth of the country to many stunning destinations. However, there are some trips that are made just for the train journey rather than getting from A to B. They are the 6 premium panoramic train journeys. We have managed to get onto part of the routes here and there but I feel that the whole experience of the journey is what makes these trips so special.

Another unique route worth mentioning is the Palm Post Bus Express. This is not your average bus route. Starting in St Moritz, it winds its way over the border into Italy, down the side of Lake Como then back into Switzerland, via Lake Lugano in the Italian canton of Ticino.

These journeys are on my list of must-dos and we will definitely go one day soon… but until then, it was lots of fun researching them.

You can click on the coloured lines to find the routes or click on the little door at the top right to expand and view more details about each of the stops or thoroughfares en route.

Golden Pass Panoramic – Monteux to Zweisimmen: From Lake Geneva straight into the mountains. This route has mountain and valley views with picturesque villages full of chalets such as Gstaad. This is not an express train journey. It is one of three different routes, using three different rail lines (MOB, Zentralbahn, BLS), run by Goldenpass. You can find more information on the Goldenpass Line website here.

BLS RegioExpress ( A Goldenpass Line) – Zweisimmen to Interlaken Ost: Through the Simmental Valley and alongside Lake Thun where you will see typical wooden chalets in traditional villages. For more information either go to the Goldenpass website or BLS RegioExpress (website not yet available English 08/21).

Luzern-Interlaken Express (A Goldenpass Line) – Luzern to Interlaken Ost: (Or vice versa) You will pass four lakes on this trip, see waterfalls and go over the Brünig Pass. This journey takes 2 hours. You can find out more information here.

Glacier Express – Zermatt to St. Moritz: (You are able to go in either direction). This route takes you through Valais, Uri and Graubünden Cantons with the alpine village of Zermatt at one end; offering breathtaking views of the Matterhorn, and the elegant resort of St. Moritz at the other. In between is the UNESCO World site – Albula Railway with the Solis and Landwassser Viaducts and spiral tunnels and The Rhine Gorge which is known as the Grand Canyon of Switzerland. This full journey takes approx. 7 1/2 hours. You can depart from Davos and change trains at Filisur. For more information, see the website here.

Gotthard Panorama Express – Lugano (or Bellinzona) to Luzern: (or vice versa). This route takes you right through Switzerland, including a trip on a steamboat across Lake Luzern in the north. The journey is full of significant historical sights and stories including various well-known Swiss myths and legends. It takes approximately 5 hours. More about this trip can be found here.

Bernina Express – Chur to Tirano, Italy: This route has been thoughtfully built so as to blend in with the alpine landscapes around the Albula and Bernina Passes. The train negotiates the 55 tunnels, 196 bridges and inclines of up to 70 per mile with ease. At the highest point on the RhB, 2,253 metres above sea level, you will find the Ospizio Bernina. Here you can enjoy the Alps at their most impressive. The railway line from Thusis – Valposchiavo – Tirano has UNESCO World Heritage status. You can find more information here.

The Palm Express: passes through the Engadin & Bregaglia valleys of Graubünden, down into Italy then finishing in Ticino

Starting in St. Moritz, the scenic Palm Express journey takes you on a 4-hour trip from snowy rugged peaks and forested valleys to the palm trees & deep blue waters of Lake Como and Lake Lugano via Chiavenna in Italy. (An identity card or passport is needed for the border crossing).

St. Moritz –Menaggio–Lugano

Firstly the trip takes you past the large Silvaplaner and Silser Lakes on the way to the Maloja Pass.

The post bus then negotiates 14 hairpin bends down to Val Bregaglia which has a distinct Mediterranean influence. After crossing the Castasegna municipality border, the bus enters Italy, where the bus stops at Chiavenna Stazione for just over and hour giving the passengers time to stroll through the Chiavenna market stands and enjoy refreshments under the first palm trees.

The Palm Express now carries you past the blue waters of the Mezzola and Como lakes onto the Sorico, Gera Lario, Domaso, Gravedona, Dongo and Menaggio villages. Then alongside Lake Lugano were the post bus once again crosses the Italien Swiss border. The Swiss lakeside town of Gandria is a lovely little town to stop for some food then perhaps, to take a boat or walk the 5 km Sentiero di Gandria trail back to Lugano.

For more information go to the Post Auto website here: https://www.postauto.ch/en/excursion-tips/palm-express search by entering From: St. Moritz to: Lugano then “search connections“. The journey takes just under 4 hours, including the 1 hour stop in Italy.

Fensterplatz AB – Your personal train tour in the Appenzell region.

Photo from: Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives

What Fensterplatz AB is…

The Fensterplatz AB App is a digital Appenzeller Railway audio guide of stories and various topics relating to the Appenzell region. The app is designed to be used in conjunction with your train journey to tell you a bit about the landscape and villages that are outside your window.

How it works

First, you download the app and choose if you want to register –

Then either download a tour if no internet connection or choose the online option.

Choose the departure and arrival stations and put your headphones in to listen to the commentary. The App works with GPS points and so you will need to allow location access and use headphones for listening to the commentary.

Start the tour when the train departs.

You simply purchase a normal ticket – either a day pass for a return journey, or a single ticket for a point-to-point trip. Then use your app once entering the train.

There are two options for purchasing tickets: The public transport that services Schaffhausen, Thurgau, Appenzell and St. Gallen regions is called OSTWIND but tickets can also be purchased and timetables viewed on the Swiss National Transport website – sbb.ch.

Another ticketing option is to use fairtiq.com which is mentioned on the Fensterplatz AB website. This is also new technology for train travel. Fairtiq is an app that can be used to purchase the ticket as you enter the train or bus and stop the purchase when you leave. (I am yet to try this out but will add more information when I do).

For more information go to the Fensterplatz website. (Go into the menu/tours for suggested trips).

A possible trip would include:

Hopping on at St. Gallen …

Photo by @Schweiz Tourismus, André Meier

Then travelling through the Appenzell countryside and villages, learning about the views out the train window …

Photo: Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives @ René Niederer Artwiese

When arriving in Appenzell village, hop off the train and walk past the colourful houses, then try some local produce …

before getting back on the train to learn more about farming traditions, village life, leisure possibilities or local products.

Photo: Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives René Niederer Artwiese

Then arrive back in St. Gallen’s central station.

St. Gallen Roter Platz Photo by Giglio Pasqua, St. Gallen Tourismus