This blog shows places that are often a side note or not found in most guide books. Let me show you my favourite spots - places that are just a bit off the beaten track in this beautiful country.
Ski trails and Glarus mountains of the Pizol in the eastern Heidiland Region – – View from chairlift
February in Switzerland is traditionally a time when skiers flock to the numerous ski resorts that cover the Swiss Alps. There are all kinds of winter sports locations – from the large multi-region resorts to the smaller locally run pistes and finally, to the blink and you would miss alpine villages that transform hillside meadows and mountain slopes into ski runs (my favourite). There are so many options all over the country. Unfortunately, the alpine regions normally covered in thick snow at this time of year are experiencing more and more instances where they struggle to keep the snow on the pistes, mountain trails and sledge runs.
Planning a Snowy Getaway
These warmer winters have made it more problematic to plan a ski-based getaway in the Alps. However, as an added safeguard to ensure visitors continue to come, the ski resorts are adding more autumn and spring-like activities to keep attracting winter sports enthusiasts. These alternatives to skiing have become a necessity for local businesses to keep operating through the winter months.
When trying to organise a dream ski holiday, these are the issues that can arise:
You booked your holiday months ago, have all the equipment organised and have committed to staying in a particular holiday home or hotel. The issue: The snow is melting fast and your accommodation is now surrounded by flattened grass and mud…
You have no idea what to expect and what to commit to before starting your holiday. The issue: Do you book ski lessons or tickets early or do you wait and hope the prices don’t rise?
Solutions
1. Keep Informed
Information Board at Ibergeregg near Schwyz, Central Switzerland
Download the Swiss Tourism Swiss Snow App – this clarifies everything you need to know about conditions in pretty much any ski area in Switzerland. Some of the details include: the depth of the snow – in both the mountains and the valleys, what lifts are open and webcams for a proper inspection. This App also has maps and advice on the type of snow, prices for tickets, offers, tobogganing runs, snow parks, and winter hiking trails through forests where the snow tends to stick around. Also, most importantly for this post, other types of activities.
Bergflex.ch is an amazing source of information about ski resorts all over the country. Information includes snow depth, number of lifts, prices, altitude, km of pistes, and links to accommodation… all on one page! Worth viewing for up-to-date information.
You can always go further upwards or outwards. The Swiss Alps are surprisingly compact and the public transport is legendary. It’s easy to get from valley or mountain accommodation to other resorts or higher altitudes by public transport.
Example 1: Try The Graubünden Pass, a rail pass which covers over 7,106 square kilometres of the canton and 150 valleys. This pass includes half-price travel on certain mountain rail journeys. It also covers travel on the Post bus routes, the little red Rhätischen Rail line and some cable cars. This region is full of high-altitude ski resorts, small pistes, ice-skating, sled runs, alternative winter activities and lovely small villages. The wild Bernina mountains are particularly good for guaranteed winter snow and a chance to view the Diavolezza Glacier which can be viewed from the top of a cable car at around 3,000 metres above sea level. It is possible to ski around here from the middle of October to the start of May.
Example 2: Snow ‘n’ Rail by Switzerland Rail Network – sbb.ch. By booking through the public transport website it is possible to book a combination of public transport and 1 day or multi-day ski passes for over 25 ski regions. These passes are discounted and can include the return journey and the relevant transport options for getting up the mountain. Discounts can be as much as 30%, depending on the time of year.
Plenty of resources are always available to see what to do and where to do it. The local tourism authorities have stepped up over the last few years. You can always find informative brochures, booklets or online advice on winter activities. There are loads of options wherever you are.
… and, of course, for those lesser-known spots… try my blog 🙂
The truth about how mountains are made is unveiled in the amazing Pizol alpine region. Found in the UNESCO World Heritage Sardona Tectonic Arena, this region is full of panoramic wonders – you just need to know where to look.
The Pizol High Plateau is like a viewing platform of geological events going back millennia. You can see mountain chains once part of the African plate, the Rhine Valley, once a huge glacier, snaking off into the distance and mountain peaks, once hundreds of metres below the ocean in deep-sea trenches, now over 2,500 metres above sea level covered in snow. But the region is mostly famous for the discovery that geologists and scientists made here – how mountains are formed. The collision of plates can be seen in the clearly defined layers of rock over 300 million years old, now known as the “Glarus thrust”.
Why would anyone want to miss a show like that?
How to view mighty mountains and the Rhine Valley –Pizol’s Panorama Trail
Sign meanings: Yellow indicates Ski Tours 34 & 35 down to Gaffia middle chairlift station, Brown/red is the red ski slope to Gaffia and Green indicates the paragliding site – available in both summer and winter. Pink is for winter trail 172 – Panorama circular trail – more detail below.
Doing the Panorama Trail
Length: 3.6 km | Duration: 1 hour 10 mins | Height Difference: 30 m | Start: Either Wangs or Bad Ragaz gondola stations
Location
When travelling by car, the Pizol Region is reached via the main A3 motorway in a southeast direction from Zürich. Around 30 minutes after travelling across the southern tip of Lake Zürich the motorway runs through the Rhine Valley where dramatic views of the Alps rise up in front of you – of course, this depends on the weather. The Glarus Valley to the west, is notorious for fog but once this clears the mighty peaks are visible all around. Once travelling through tunnels and alongside Walensee (Lake Walen), the Rhine Valley widens and this is when signposts for Wangs and Bad Ragaz come into view. From here it is easy to exit the motorway and find a park at the valley stations of both gondolas.
When taking public transport the views from the train start in the valley and include the wonderful Walensee. From Wangs or Bad Ragaz buses connect the train station to the gondolas.
The Trail
The Pizol high plateau stretches out between the top chairlift stations Laufböden and the Pizolhütte, with the magnificent Panorama Höhenweg circular hiking trail meandering between these two points. The crowning glory is the summit panorama and the Grand Tour of Switzerland photo spot at the Tagweidlichopf viewpoint. The circular trail is dedicated to the UNESCO World Heritage Tectonic Arena Sardona.
Highlights:
Large info panel at the panoramic viewing platform with astounding insights into the formation of the Alps.
Grand Tour of Switzerland Photo Spot.
360-degree views.
Clear views of the ridging and folding of rock strata known as the Glarus Thrust.
Well-groomed paths in a stunning winter landscape.
Friendly staff
Cosy mountain restaurants with indoor and outdoor seating.
Panorama Benches
My Experience
I was lucky enough to have an invitation from the lovely staff at Pizol Tourism and Marketing after asking for information about winter walking in the area.
I planned to explore the area with a friend. The idea was that we would get familiar with the area by taking the gondola and chair lifts to the top, have a coffee at the Pizolhütte Restaurant, do the trail, take plenty of photos and learn more about the Tectonic Arena, then finish for another drink before going down to the valley.
View from chairlift – ski trails and the Glarus mountains hidden under thick snow.
Getting to the Pizol Plateau
Great theory but unfortunately my friend couldn’t make it so I was on my own. It was not a problem except when I arrived I was surrounded by skiers, a gondola trip then 2 chair lift rides to the top. I imagined sharing a chair lift with a seasoned skier – they would gracefully alight at the top station, swishing off into the snowy distance, I, however, would be forced to run along the hard snowy floor of the station, probably slip, ending up under the chairlift with the possibility of my backpack strap hooked around some part of the lift. The staff would be forced to stop the lifts while unhooking me and pulling me to my feet. I would then limp off, spending the rest of my time on the mountain worrying about the trip down.
Attentive Staff
Of course, it didn’t happen like that. The lift staff were very attentive and made sure I was not travelling with skiers, also the exit from the lifts was very straightforward – I just took a step to the side and was on firm ground. There were also plenty of other people doing the winter walks so, most importantly, I was not alone.
So I started the Panorama trail completely relaxed, breathing in the crisp alpine air, bathed in sunlight, buzzing at the thought of walking on the well-groomed paths. It was very early in the day and the snow was pretty hard on the trail. This meant a bit of slipping and sliding to start with, which was viewed by others in the chair lift but at that point, I didn’t care. The wonderful thing about the Pizol plateau is that you feel like you are on top of the world, with views of mountains going on forever into the distance. A few slips and slides didn’t matter. I just waved at my audience and continued to slip and slide down the path.
After the initial challenge, the path softened and was easier to negotiate. I would recommend sturdy winter boots for the walk and I noticed some other hikers have poles, but these are not required.
Near the start of the trail looking towards the Tagweidlichopf viewpoint.
The Hike
The high plateau at 2222 meters, that the trail crosses, is positioned in front of the Sardona Tectonic Arena like a naturally shaped viewing platform. The views are in all directions – towards the World Heritage Glarus mountains, across the Rhine Valley and as far as Lake Constance in clear weather, then layers of Alps disappearing into the distance.
On the trail, looking towards Pizolhütte Restaurant and chairlift.
Beautiful shapes are made from shadows created by the morning sun. Lake Wangser (Wangsersee) is hidden under snow and ice.
Tagweidlichopf vantage point
The high-altitude trail is lined with information about the view, the origin of the Alps and the UNESCO World Heritage Site. One of the highlights is the Tagweidlichopf vantage point (2275 m above sea level) with a 360-degree panoramic view and a large panoramic viewing guide explaining the geological changes and events that created the landscape.
A Grand Tour of Switzerland photo spot with a view of the Pizol summit and its glacier was installed here in July 2018. The Pizol was chosen as one of the 40 most beautiful photo spots in Switzerland.
How to get thereand a map of walking routes with lifts
A gondola and chairlift complete the journey up to the Pizol Plateau from Bad Ragaz – Laufböden (2,224 m). Another option is with a gondola and 2 chairlifts from the town of Wangs -Pizolhütte station (2,222 m). All lifts connect seamlessly. The map below displays the lifts.
Winter hiking trail – Pizol Panorama Höhenweg (high altitude walk). Can also be done in summer.
To the Valley Station at Wangs or Bad Ragaz
Public Transport
Zürich main station to Bad Ragaz train station: Taking 1 hr 16 mins (depending on connection), then the bus to Bad Ragaz Pizol Bahn (gondola) takes 13 mins. (Check the sbb.ch timetable for exact connection times).
Zürich main station to Sargans train station: Taking 1 hr 10/ 1 hr 30 mins (depending on connection), then the bus to Wangs Pizolbahn (gondola) takes 10 mins. (Check the sbb.ch timetable for exact connection times).
Car
Central Zürich – around 90 km to Wangs gondola car and 95 km to Bad Ragaz gondola car park – taking around 1 hour 40 mins/ 2 hours depending on traffic.
Lucerne – 85 km to the region.
Gondolas and chairlifts
Access to the top (Pizol Plateau)
Bad Ragaz: 8-seater Gondola Bad Ragaz-Pardiel and 4-seater chairliftto Laufböden.
Wangs: 8-seater Gondola Wangs-Furt and 4-seater chairlift Furt-Gaffia then 4-seater chairlift Gaffia-Pizolhütte.
Where and how to enjoy off-the-beaten-track activities in Switzerland‘s magic winter landscape– away from the busy ski pistes.
It’s easy to find sublime winter landscapes in Switzerland but sometimes it can be difficult to find the right activities once you are there. The 7 activities that I chose are great for enjoying the snowy atmosphere, the views and the wonderful natural environment and, of course, for having some serious fun. They are sledding, winter hiking, snowshoeing, ice-skating, snow kite surfing, snow biking and alpine thermal baths.
Learning to Ski in Switzerland’s Magic Winter Landscape as an adult
I am a perpetual beginner when it comes to skiing. Despite living an hour’s drive from a ski field in NZ, the farm took top priority, so skiing simply wasn’t on our radar.
I first learned to ski in Bulgaria on a backpacking trip. It was a bad start – the snow was starting to melt when we arrived… and didn’t stop melting.
My next experience with skiing was when my husband and I took a road trip through Europe many years ago. We had a blast attempting to stay upright on the slopes in Andorra and Austria. Without the budget for ski lessons, it was a bit hit or miss – with a few noteworthy wipeouts that we still laugh about today. Somehow we managed to avoid any broken limbs although our pride was pummeled by children offering to help us up way too often.
Over the years I have slowly improved but I am still happy with the beginners’ slopes. It doesn’t stop me from loving it (unless I venture onto a black slope in error, then it is simply terrifying).
As far as I am concerned, the point of skiing is to get out of the house, shake off the winter cobwebs, and have some fun, however, skiing isn’t the only option. I have come up with a few alternatives which can be just as much fun but maybe less terrifying (in some cases).
1. Sledding and Snowshoe hike in the Albula Valley
The iconic Preda to Bergün tobogganing run with a circular snowshoe walk
Sled run from Preda to Bergün
The Albula Pass tobogganing run
I didn’t try sledging until I was an adult – our farm was in the Canterbury Plains… so pretty flat. It took a lot of courage to do the Preda to Bergün tobogganing run in the Albula Pass. It is only possible to use the daunting wooden Davos sleds, however, my courage was rewarded with a crazy family day out that included idyllic train trips uphill and action-packed, slightly out-of-control trips back down.
Tip: There are different types of wooden Davos sleds depending on your level and confidence. The beginner sleds are easier to control and slower and most have a soft seating area.
The tobogganing run is special for 2 reasons:
Reason 1: The train journey from Bergün twists & turns through the mountains of the Albula Pass and over elegant viaducts to reach the start of the tobogganing rungiving you a taste of the UNESCO World Heritage Albula line.
Reason 2: The 6 km tobogganing run goes directly under the viaducts and, if you time it right, at the same time as the trains speed over them.
Tip: A good time to do this run is between train arrival times in Preda. We hired some snowshoes and did a circular track that goes past the pretty Palpuognasee (Lake Palpuogna), then replaced our snowshoes with sleds at the rental kiosk, managing to get going long before the train full of other sledders arrived.
Snowshoe trail to Lago Palpuogna
Lake Palpuogna – once voted as the most beautiful spot in Switzerland
Palpuogna snowshoe (Schneeschuh) Trail No. 528
Hike Distance: 5 km
Level: Easy/Medium
Duration: 2 hours
Ascent: 220 m
In the winter, when snow covers the Albula Pass, this region truly becomes a magic winter landscape. The Rhaetian Railway journey that passes through the small hamlet of Preda is often full of sleds and their owners making sure they don’t fall down as the train twists and turns through the tunnels and over the curved viaducts. This train ride is very smooth so all sleds and anybody standing close to them are pretty safe.
When leaving the train the majority of the people will be heading for the sled run. The snowshoe trail, in the opposite direction, is a calmer alternative to experience the peaceful natural environment of this area.
Short-cut option near Preda Photo A.Leggett
TheRoute
This circular trail from Preda train station follows old mule trails and leads to the beautiful Lake Palpuogna. The signposts, which are pink with a picture of a snowshoe, are easy to follow. This is a beautiful place to visit even though the lake is often covered in snow. Far away from any town or roads (the pass is closed to traffic in winter), this trail leads through pine forests and has lovely mountain views.
Some Tips
Tip 1:This is a great walk when trying out snowshoeing for the first time since most of the trail is groomed and reasonably easy.
Tip 2:Have your snack breaks in amongst the trees. The lake was exposed to an icy wind when wedid the hike and the only place to sit was a snow-covered bench with only the top showing. We used that as a seat, then quickly ate our snacks and took off into the forest which is where we should have stopped as the temperature was nice and mild amongst the trees.
Tip 3: The official map for the Palpuogna snowshoe trail can be found on the Swiss Mobility website. This website is also great for the national network of winter and snowshoe routes around the country.
Information
Services
Snowshoe and Sled Rental – Mark Sportin Bergün – staff are always friendly and happy to help. The Kiosk directly at Preda train station also hires a selection of sleds and snow shoes.
Getting There
The toboggan run and snowshoe trail both start from the train station at Preda.
Train: Bergün to Preda – 17 minutes and leaves regularly throughout the day. See sbb.ch for details. The Albula Pass road is closed to traffic during the winter months.
2. Thermal Baths in the Lower Engadin and Viamala Region
Engadin Bad Scuol(Bogn Engiadina) in the Upper Engadin
Inside the Bogn Engiadina, Image by Anita Leggett
The town of Scuol is the biggest town in the Lower Engadin Valley. It takes a bit of effort to get here but the journey through wild landscapes and past idyllic villages; as well as the magical views, from the baths themselves, are all good reasons to come.
What is available at the Scuol baths*
Panorama pool, approx. 33 ° C
Exercise and therapy pool, 33 ° C
Brine pool – 2% brine, approx. 33 ° C
Whirlpool – approx. 36 ° C
Grottos – Cold water, 18 ° C and warm water grotto, 36 ° C
We stayed in Andeer for a ski week in 2018 and found these mineral baths around the corner from our accommodation. We often went there in the evenings. I think I enjoy the thermal baths as much as the skiing!
The Andeer Mineral Baths are found in the small, typical Graubünden village of Andeer. This is an ideal place if you are looking for peace and quiet. They have cobbled streets and a pretty town center with a welcoming bakery. The buses leave from this area regularly to Splügen Tambo ski resort which can be reached in 13 mins or 15 minutes by car.
What is available at the Andeer baths*
One indoor and one outdoor mineral pool (good size) – both with bubble, whirlpool & neck shower
Constant 34 degrees
Evening light display in the outdoor pool
Wellness
Finnish sauna and bio sauna as well as a steam bath (currently reserved for women only from 6-9 pm).
Splash and Spa Tamaro Abo – 20% off ski pass (see website for details)
*As of Dec 2023
For up-to-date information and a funny video go to their website. Also, theSplügen Tambowebsite gives more information about the Splash and Spa Tamaro discount (20% off your day ski pass with entry to the spa).
Some lesser-known ski resorts in canton Graubünden – great for beginners
Splügen Tambo Ski Area – great skiing for beginners. Photo: A. Leggett
If you want to have a go at skiing far from the crowds. I recommend these small lesser-known ski slopes, also in canton Graubünden, that offer great practice runs for beginners – big or small.
Splügen – Tambo, The ski resort is close to Andeer and offers a wide variety of beginner & family slopes. Splügen is also a lovely, well-preserved historical town, across the road from the resort.
Tip: Book ski passes online, ski during the week or low season for lower prices and the day passes are discounted when combined with entry to the Andeer thermal baths.
Bergün, Graubünden – 1 beginner and 1 blue slope – both small – They are really good for practice before going to the neighbouring slopes of Darlux ski area: 3 lifts & 25km of slopes.
Pany – tiny ski resort with plenty of room to practice. Photo: A.Leggett
Pany(in Luzein, Prättigau, Graubünden) – a tiny ski area with 1 (very long) T-bar lift, 1 children’s lift and 7 km of runs. It includes a small number of good-sized runs through trees to make it interesting. Also offers a ski school and a lovely restaurant with a terrace.
If you are looking for one of the most beautiful winter landscapes in Switzerland you cannot avoid the Upper Engadin. This wide valley sits at 1,800 metres above sea level and is equipped with many frozen lakes, wide sweeping slopes and craggy mountain ranges; pristine villages and glamourous towns – St Moritz is one of the most well-known. Winters here are a blessing for winter sport enthusiasts with regular low temperatures, keeping the landscape white and the lakes frozen.
Lake Silvaplana is a large lake battered by the Maloja winds that sweep over the lake around midday each day. This and the large expanse of snow-covered ice make this lake a mecca for snow-kite surfing enthusiasts. The good news is that it has become a major sport which means better training, and plenty of options for beginners upwards – this includes beginner skiers (understandably, you do need to stand and move confidently on skis).
Swiss Kite Centre and School
This is the home of kite surfing and snow kite surfing. The owner, Swiss-born Stefan Popprath taught his first student snowkiting in 1994 even before an official name was given to the sport.
He founded the centre after realised the Maloja wind and the location of the lake was perfect for kites and surfing so, after some inspiration from another adventurer, Reinhold Messner, and researching and testing equipment, he set up the kite surfing centre in the 1990s. Anything you need to know about the centre and the sport is available on his website or by visiting the sport centre itself.
The Locations and other activities
Swiss Kitesurf has three locations. The main one is at the centre on Lake Silvaplana, the others are Furtschella – 5 mins from the centre and the Bernina Pass 20 mins from the centre. The Kite Surfing Centre is part of Mulet sport centre which also has an ice-skating rink, hockey field and curling.
Information
Services
Kite Rental – Seetheir websitefor information on Kite rental and schooling.
Food and Drink – Restaurant Mulets – Just above the kite surfing sports centre – with great views of the lake and mountains. See the kite sailing website for more information.
Getting There
Public Transport:Chur to Kite School Silvaplana train/bus journey time: 2 hours 30 mins with changes. St. Moritz by bus 17 minutes including an 8-minutewalk from the bus stop. See sbb.ch for timetables.
The 2.5 km Via da Glatsch ice-skating trail runs alongside the River Inn and links the villages of Zuoz to Madulain. These two traditional villages have stunning architecture and sit in a sunny part of the Engadin valley. Even though these villages are only around 25 minutes by train from the extravagant St. Moritz, they feel a world away. Zuoz is pretty and quiet with local produce and traditions everywhere. The tourist information offers a walking tour of the town with details about the history of different buildings and the everyday lives of the people living in this part of the Upper Engadin Valley.
Another Ice-Skating option – Lake St. Moritz (St. Moritzersee).
Glamorous people sparkle this time of year in St. Moritz. Some do literally sparkle and it can be blinding. Apart from this side of St. Moritz, there are some very cool groomed ice-skating tracks on the lake. They are nice and wide and you always have the option to rest in the snow at the side. This is such an idyllic location and it is difficult not to be impressed.
Information
Services for Ice-Skating Trail
Skate Rental – Willy Sport in Zuoz; Colamo Sport in La Punt Chamues-ch; Promulins Arena, Samedan
Admission Cost:- CHF5
Getting There
Train: St. Moritz – Madulain 21 mins; St.Moritz – Zuoz – 26 mins hourly changing at Samedan.
Sledding in the Bernese Oberland’s Reichenbach Valley
The Bernese Oberland’s Rychenbach River Valley connects the Meiringen region to the Grindelwald region. This valley gains altitude from Meiringen to the Grosse Scheidegg Pass.
The Reichenbach Valley
One of the oldest and best-preserved funiculars in Switzerland climbs from Meiringen village up to the alpine valley. The valley gradually gains altitude from the top of the funicular to Grosse Scheidegg (850 m – 1962 m) and is surrounded by views of dramatic mountains.
The valley has forests, wide open fields, theRosenlaui Gorge and the impressive Reichenbach River. Little hamlets and the romanticRosenlaui Hotel can be found along the way. The Post Bus is one of the few forms of transport that can use the small windy road without restrictions.
Where to Sled
This kind of landscape is perfect for winter sledding. The post bus travels from Meiringen up to the valley’s highest point – Grosse Scheidegg. From here it is an exciting 5.5 km ride on the sled down to the hamlet of Schwarzwaldalp where the bus once again takes you and your sled up to start all over again.
The views are amazing with the run at the foot of the dramatic Wetterhorn and the Horn range of mountains.
Experience Needed:Suitable for both novices and experienced riders.
Tip. There are also many snowshoe trails in the Reichenbach Valley.
Information
Services
Sled Rental– from the Chalet-Hotel Schwarzwaldalp. Food and Drink – there are restaurants and services at both ends of the sled run – Schwarzwaldalp and Grosse Scheidegg.
Getting There
Public Transport – Interlaken to Meiringen
Sledding – A special Schlitten (sled) Bus runs regularly from Meiringen to Schwarzwaldalp and then up to Grosse Scheidegg.
Operating times 2023/2024
Daily: from 26th December 2023 to 7th January 2024
Thursday to Sunday: from 11th January to 3rd March 2024
Velogemel is a cross between a bike and a sled. Now used as an adrenalin-fuelled activity, this contraption was originally meant as an everyday way of getting about in the winter months for the locals. Developed and patented by Christian Bühlmann from Grindelwald back in 1911, it was known as a “single-track steerable sled”.
The Velogemel toboggan run is the bottom part of the Big Pintenfritz tobogganing run which is considered the longest in Europe at 15 km and is classed as difficult. So think carefully before attempting it.
Where the Velogemel run starts and finishes
Starts: At Bussalp (1,800 m). The stunning views from Bussalp include the world-famous Alp trio – Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. The descent gives an adrenalin hit in terms of speed and balance and is definitely a very original and adventurous way to fly down a mountain.
Finishes: In either Grindelwald,Weidli (2.5 km northwest of the train station) or Grindelwald Village depending on the conditions. (See Info section below for more details).
Tip 1: If you only want to watch these bike-sleds in action, the Velogemel World Championships take place at the beginning of February every year (since 1996) – the races start from Bussalp.
Tip 2:It is better to do the run in the morning as the snow can get soft and sludgy later in the day.
Tip 2: There are also plenty of other toboggan runs with all levels of difficulty starting from or going through Bussalp. See this link for more information – Grindelwaldbus.
“City Run – The Classic” Toboggan Run, Bussalp – Weidli
Information
Services
Velogemel Rental – Rent from either Grindelwald railway station, Kaufmann Sport in Grindelwald centre or Ski service Egger at Grindelwald Grund, then take the bus from the train station to Bussalp at 1800 m. Food and Drink – Bergrestaurant (mountain restaurant) Bussalp.
Getting There
GrindelwaldBus line 126 from Grindelwald train station to Bussalp. Toboggan run stops in Weidli, above Grindelwald village. Buses regularly leave from Weidli back up to Bussalp.
Cantons Lucerne and Schwyz
7. Winter Hiking and snowshoe trails
Winter Hiking on the sunny Ibereregg Pass, high above Schwyz township.
Ibergeregg Pass looking towards Lake Lucerne, Photo by A.Leggett
Tucked in between Lakes Lucerne and Lake Zürich is the wonderful Mythen region of foothills and mountains. IbergereggPass is part of the mountainous area connecting the Einsiedeln region (close to Zürich) and the Rotenflue mountain, above the town of Schwyz (close to Lake Lucerne).
This is a great place to get above the clouds and walk out in the open and through fir trees to Berggasthäuser (mountain restaurants) and Beizlis (small eateries). There are often views of the lakes or, like in this photo, a blanket of clouds.
Mythen Region
The Mythen region is an alpine region that encompasses the Ibergeregg Pass, the dramatic GrosseMythen mountain (1,898 m) and the Rotenflue mountain (1,571 m). This is where you will find a wide, undulating landscape with dramatic mountains, meadows, moorlands and woods – a paradise for walking, winter sports and trying out the local produce.
Hiking and snowshoe trails – Ibergeregg Pass
Ibergeregg Pass is a good place to try out some winter walks and snowshoe trails as there is a good network of national routes and local routes starting here. Also, there are many mountain restaurants and inns in this region and the routes pass right past a few of them. They often have outdoor terraces and are well-signposted.
Information
Travelling to Rotenflue from Lake Lucerne: Train/Bus to Rychenbach (a suburb of the Schwyz township); then Rotenflue cable car – 1 hour 25 minutes including changes.
Travelling to Ibergeregg Pass from Zürich: Train to Schwyz, change at Arth Goldau; then bus to Ibergeregg Pass (505) – 1 hour 40 mins including changes.
Region of Einsiedeln/Oberiberg: These are starting points for the Hoch Ybrig ski resort, then bus 505 leaves from Oberiberg – 12 minutes.
Rigi mountain range – gentle slopes overlooking Lake Lucerneon one side and Lake Zug on the other
A natural border between the lower, flatter Swiss Mittelland that runs in a northwesterly direction and the summits of the Swiss Alps, Rigi is considered one of the most classic panorama mountains in Switzerland. Rigi summit, topped by Rigi Kulm, rises between Lake Zug (Zugersee) and Lake Lucerne (Vierwaldstättersee).
Winter WalkingTrails
There are several winter walks and snowshoe trails spread along Rigi’s peaks and slopes and they are all well connected by a network of public transport.
Winter Walking –Rigi Panorama Path
Rigi Kaltbad, on the Lake Lucerne facing slope, has a small station for the historical mountain railway and is home to the Mineralbad & Spa– sublime thermal baths with a view.
A gentle walk from the main summit, Rigi Kaltbad to Rigi Scheidegg offers plenty of superb lookout points in all directions.
Hike Distance: approx.7.9 km
Level: Medium
Finish: Rigi Scheidegg
Duration: 2 hrs
Type of Walk: Point-to-Point
AscentDescent: 250/136 m
Start: Rigi Kaltbad
This winter route is called the Panoramaweg (Panorama Walk). It doesn’t have any steep sections – just a long gentle ascent from 1,424 m to 1,641 m over 8 km. It can be walked in both directions, in sections or used for walking to one of the mountain restaurants’ panorama terraces.
Information
This walk starts and finishes with different means of ascent/descent as follows:
Rigi Kaltbad:
Lake Lucerne/Vitznau: mountain rail
Lake Lucerne/Weggis: cable car
Lake Zug side/Arth Goldau: mountain rail
Rigi Scheidegg:
From Rigi Scheidegg to Kräbel: mountain rail – linking with mountain railway to Arth Goldau, (Lake Zug side).
From Rigi Scheidegg to Kräbel: mountain railway to Rigi Kulm (peak) then to Vitznau by mountain train or Weggis by cable car (Lake Lucerne).
Websites:sbb.chfor boat/train/mountain rail links and Rigi for cable car information and further winter walks, snowshoe trails, toboggan runs etc.
Understanding Winter Signposts
Sledding Guidelines
Links
Winter trails are clearly visible in a snowy environment
Pink signposts and arrows are used for winter walking, hiking or snowshoe trails and the turquoise signs represent cross-country skiing.
Snow Shoe Trails
Snowshoe trails are pink with a snowshoe symbol. If the trail is a national route, then it indicates the name and number of the route with a dark pink background.
WinterHiking Routes
The national routes are marked with the relevant number on a light pink background
Winter trails sometimes have a symbol that indicates what kind of walk it is – light walk or hike. In this case, it is an 8 km hike that ascends 340 m.
Good to know: Pink poles line both sides of the trails and it is important to stay within these poles as ski pistes often zig-zag beside, through and past the winter hiking routes.
Local Routes
Many local councils have created winter trails – sometimes groomed, sometimes not but definitely a unique way of seeing the villages from a different perspective (this one is above Bergün in the Albula Pass).
These are normally pink with a white snowflake.
Cross-Country Skiing Signs
Cross-country skiing signposts and route indicators are turquoise. However, this road sign is pretty clear – you are about to cross a cross-country skiing track.
Restaurant and Guesthouse Signs
Beizli – small eatery serving local products,
Bergrestaurant – mountain restaurant
Bergasthaus – mountain guest house and restaurant
Alpwirtschaft – a small family-owned restaurant often part of a farm or cheese dairy (may not be open in summer).
Alpstubli – Look and feel of a traditional mountain restaurant – often large and associated with a ski area.
My Favourite Sign – made by my kids.
Sledding Guidelines
Small toboggan run in Oberiberg, canton Schwyz. Photo A.Leggett
What to wear –
Always wear good winter boots with a solid sole and plenty of tread. Your boots are used for braking and steering.
Ski helmet.
Waterproof gloves, ski pants and ski jacket
Scarf ( tucked in of course)
Small backpack
Goggles or good sunglasses
How to use the wooden Davos sleds –
Leg position – Legs should be bent and facing forward. Hold onto the reins and lean back. On straight and flat sections of the run, the feet can rest on the runners.
Steering – Steer with both your boots and body – When steering to the left, simply put your left foot out into the snow and the same with a right turn, right foot. Also, lean your body in the direction you are turning (into the corner).
Braking –
When the terrain flattens out put both feet flat on the snow to slow down or stop.
When on the slope, dig your heels into the snow to slow down and brake.
If you need to brake on steep terrain, pull up the front of the sled with the reins. The more you pull, the more you will brake.
When the run becomes steep it is better to sit in the rear of the sled.
Rules of sledging
Show consideration for others
Adapt speed and driving style to ability
Respect the lane of the vehicle in front
Overtake with distance
Look up before entering and approaching the road
Stop at the edge
Get on and off at the edge
Observe signs and markings
German words for communicating when sledding
Sledding/sled – schlitten fahren/ der Schlitten
Sled rental – Schlitten mieten.
Watch out! – Achtung! or aufpassen!
I am passing! – Ich gehe durch! or Achtung!
Further Links
Swiss Mobility has a listing of around 100 toboggan runs with filter options for level of difficulty. Go to the link here to take a look – Schwiezmobil.
schlitten.ch is a great website, in German and English, which offers advice on different types of sledand how to get around the corners without falling off.
If you have ever been to the Rheinfalls you will know how impressive they are. A huge amount of water gushes and roars along the river then plunges over huge rocks, whirling and swirling to the next level. The fairytale castle – Schloss Laufen, observes from above. These waterfalls and the dramatic forested landscape can be seen up close and personal from a walkway, a huge rock in the middle of the Rhine, or a boat. Every now and then a train chugs across the solid Rheinbrücke bei Laufen bridge into a tunnel under the castle, before stopping at the Schloss Laufen train station. This is definitely a very cool place to visit.
However, the Rheinfalls is understandably very popular with tourists – they flock to the area to get a view of the roaring waterfall, filling the boats, and walkways. For this reason and also when the weather is cold and rainy, it is nice to have another option close by.
Smilestones is an Indoor Miniature world. It is found opposite the castle on the other side of the Rhine in a large warehouse. It offers a chance to experience not only the Rheinfall attractions but some of the most iconic and better-known Swiss sights. (I went here recently and definitely recommend it).
Swiss Milestones (Smilestones)
Markets pop up to fit the seasons. A.Leggett
From Smilestones indoor arena, it is possible to look down on the Rheinfalls from above, distancing yourself from the crowds and the tiny boats below. The whole Rheinfalls area is shown in great detail including the forested hills, railway bridge, tunnel and castle. From here you can make your way to Schaffhausen’s old town and towers, then visit a miniature Appenzell with its colourful houses and Alpstein mountains – cable cars move up and down at the push of a button. You can then stop and look closely at the people (23,000) enjoying their day on restaurant terraces, in the villages, or watch as they bike, hike, dance and celebrate. It is then possible to observe all this at night when the lights go on (a total of 8,000). This short night cycle is every 15 minutes, giving just enough time to look into windows of buildings or see the whole exhibit lit up like a Christmas tree.
Swiss Rail – on time as usual. A.Leggett
When wandering past the sweeping views of life in Switzerland all kinds of trains snake past. They make their way through the towns, into tunnels, and past stations. If you follow them you will eventually end up in the Bernese Oberland. When here they chug past alpine villages perched on mountainsides, waterfalls, industry and holiday resorts. You will see the snow-covered Jungfrau, Mönch, Eiger and the iconic Matterhorn in miniature – still looking very impressive.
Stein am Rhein in canton Schaffhausen@smilestones
It is possible to stop and peer into a cheese dairy, the Lindt & Sprüngli chocolate factory and a watch factory. At the chocolate factory it pays to push the green glowing button, you may be rewarded with chocolate. It happened to me.
This place is lots of fun. It does feel like you are a giant – peering into the everyday lives of the Swiss. You can even get a magnifying glass to see the details – some funny and some thought-provoking.
There is a saying in Swiss German – Häsch xeh? Meaning “Did you see that”? This is the promotional phrase used by Smilestones. I think it fits well with the exhibit since the more you look, the more you see – whether it is the antics of the people or what is seen inside buildings, under the water, or hanging from the side of a mountain… In fact, some things may confuse you. This is because the Swiss have their inside jokes, traditional songs and tales which anyone outside the country may not get. This is when you will need to ask “Why”?
I’m sure you could ask a friendly Swiss person standing close to you. It may be a good opportunity to get a real insight into Swiss culture.
My favouritesdisplays:
The vehicles driving along, then held up by annoying roadworks. The use of blinkers to turn corners and the sing song horn noise as the Post buses go around the switchback roads.
People dancing, being told off by police and biking around a lake (actually peddling).
The lights on in the houses, trains and streetlamps at night.
Cable cars and funiculars
Funny little events to make you stop, really look and smile – there are plenty of these.
Buttons to interact with the displays.
Mountains
Trains, trains and more trains.
Discovering how it all works – it is also possible to do a behind the scenes tour.
By Bus from Schaffhausen to Neuhausen Zentrum, 15 mins; By TrainSchaffhausen to Neuhausen Rheinfall, 7 mins,
By Train from Zürich toSchloss Laufen am Rheinfall (other side of Rhine). From the station take lift up to castle, then follow signposts. Is a 10-minute walk across the railway bridge’s walkway.
By Car From Central Schaffhausen to Industrieplatz, Neuhausen am Rheinfall is approx. 7 mins drive; From central Zürich, approx. 40 mins drive- 50 km (direction Schaffhausen).
Countryside near Lake Lucerne with Rigi in the background
Many of the places that I like to visit are popular. Lucerne, for example, with its idyllic lake setting and surrounding mountains and, of course, the nearby state of the art cable cars that climb iconic peaks like Pilatus, Stanserhorn and Titlis are also worth waiting in line for.
Fairytale medieval towns like Gruyères in canton Fribourg with its idyllic setting and hilltop castle along with the western town of Appenzell with its colorful houses, traditions and tasty cheese pull in the crowds.
These are places that should be on the itinerary when in Switzerland, even if they can be crowded at times. This is because they have managed to stay authentic and traditional despite all the visitors, souvenir shops and tour buses.
However, is is easy to find other places in these regions that are just as idyllic, but a bit more off the tourist track. All it takes is a day trip by local train, bus, or a drive in the car to find them.
I discovered the places in this post when I was visiting Gruyères town and the region of la Gruyère, Appenzell – canton and town, St. Gallen and Lucerne. I have gone into great detail about getting around (Getting There Section) because I think the drive or train journey there can be just as entertaining as the destination.
A friend and I decided to visit the Schaukäserei (show cheese dairy) in Stein, canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden. This cheese dairy has recently been renovated and now has an exhibition that showcases the Appenzell cheese brand and the traditional family-run dairies in the area.
After learning about the culture and the cheese-making process of the region, we decided to zip up our jackets and take off into the countryside for a short walk.
There is a detailed signpost close to the dairy giving us all the options – themed walks, hill walks, mountain hikes, official Swiss trails… we just wanted to get some fresh air.
We found a combination of walks that meant we could circle around, back to the car. It was only about 2km of walking so suited our schedule.
Yellow benches, can be found all over the countryside, tempting us to sit and look at the panorama of deep green hills dotted with traditional Appenzell farms (probably a few cheese dairies as well).
While we walked and chatted we had great views of the Alpstein mountains rising up sharply, a distant view of Lake Constance and also many more little yellow benches.
You could almost do a join the dots with these benches – the shape would probably be a cow or goat.
We used one to stop for a snack. From here we could see the little town of Stein with its church steeple pointing elegantly upwards and hear cowbells clanging away in all directions. It was all so typically Swiss!
We made it back to the car in record time with a promise to each other that we will do this again but next time we will try the mountain hike.
A small museum next door to the cheese dairy (Volkskunde Museum) exhibits all sorts of historical Appenzell treasures to do with agriculture, housing and traditions. You can view historical items which have been beautifully crafted and preserved. It is possible to get a combi ticket for the cheese diary and museum.
Something fun close by . . .
Kronberg (1,657 m) Cable Car, summer Toboggan Run and Rope Park
This cable car leaves from Jakobsbad (884 m), between the villages of Urnäsch and Gonten. Jakobsbad rail station is on a small railway track that goes from Appenzell (12 mins).
There is also a large Seilpark (rope park) here. They have plenty of challenging rope obstacles to negotiate as well as 25 different ziplines that zip around the park. You can also find a Barfussweg (barefoot path) near the cable car station and hiking paths.
Getting to Stein and Jakobsbad in Appenzell
By Public Transport
From Zürich to SteinAR, change at Rapperswil & Herisau, 1 hour 40 mins.
From Zürich to SteinAR, change at St. Gallen, 1 hour 40 mins.
From St. Gallen to SteinAR, 20 mins by bus.
When travelling from Appenzell to SteinAR by public transport, athough they are close as the crow flies, it is still a 50 mins to 1 hr train/bus trip. It is better to go from St. Gallen or perhaps by doing a hike.
Toggenburg is a hilly and mountainous region that sits south of Lake Constance. It is around an 1 hr 20 mins drive or a 2-hour train journey from Zürich.
This region with its wide valley extends southward from Highway 1 – the northern motorway crossing Switzerland – almost down to the main western road skirting the Austria and Liechtenstein borders.
The landscape is mostly countryside with pretty houses sitting around the green slopes that rise up gently from the Thur river valley. This long valley is framed by rugged, and sometimes sharp mountain peaks of the Alpstein Massif to the northeast and the Churfirsten Massif to the west.
The Churfirsten Massif is very distinctive with its jagged peaks that look a bit like pointy teeth.
More about these peaks and hiking suggestions can be found on my canton St. Gallenpage.
The Churfirsten Massif’s “pointy teeth” in winter
This region offers plenty of ways to get above the fog in autumn or winter. There are several cable cars and chairlifts that lead up to themed hiking trails, alpine trails, ski pistes, lookout points and alpine restaurants. One option is the well-hidden Wolzenalp area.
View from Wolzenalp Chairlift to Säntis (left) and the Churfirsten mountains (right)
This little chairlift station is well hidden from the road – in fact, we didn’t really see it until we drove past. Once you see it there is no mistaking what it is. The side of the station has the word Wolzenalp painted a colourful sky blue with a bright yellow sun smiling above it.
What not to do – don’t choose Krummenau-Wolzenalp in the SatNav – this will take you up this winding road to the top of the chair lift. Most of this narrow country road is only for use by locals and cyclists. Instead, put in Wolzenalp, Krummenswil. There is also the Krummenau train station a few minutes walk away from the bottom chairlift station.
From the top of the chairlift, there is a short walk through part of the moor and alongside a good grill spot to the restaurant with terrace and also the start of loads of walking possibilities.
We followed the white/red/white signs painted on rocks, posts, and buildings. We would’ve been lost without them.
The steep climb was worth it just to see this view
We were going to walk to Speer (a jagged, imposing peak at 1900 metres above sea level), but decided to do the Gebirgsrundweg (mountain circular trail) instead. That was challenging enough. At one point we were zig-zagging up a very steep hillside with no clear path to follow. The one thing you can count on is the white, red, white stripes painted on – amongst other things – rocks, buildings and fence posts, that are spread out like breadcrumbs along the trail.
view from chair lift up to Wolzenalp
We followed these up steep hills, through meadows, across a lovely soft moor landscape – a bit like walking on a moss-covered mattress – then finally back downhill to the restaurant. Was a great walk with views of quiet spaces and hidden corners. I loved it!
Next time to Speer – maybe.
Waldhaus – Toggenburg
Other hiking paths leave from Waldhaus in the Toggenburg Region – also great for winter walks, snowshoeing, sledding and skiing.
Getting to Toggenburg
By Public Transport
From Zürich to Krummenau – takes 1 hour 18 mins, changing twice. Once at Rapperswil (down the side of Lake Zürich and also worth a visit).
From St. Gallen to Krummenau The S2 train takes 45 mins with no changes.
By Car:
From central Zürich – takes just over an hour, via Winterthur (A1) or down the west side of Lake Zürich (A3).
Links
Wolzenalp:
Link to video showing the ski resort and winter activities. (Beautiful video)
Even though Rigi sounds like the name of just one mountain, it is actually a Massif made up of several peaks, valleys and meadows. Rigi is on the edge of Lake Lucerne on one side and a wide valley that is home to Zug, Arth Goldau and Schwyz on the other. It spans two cantons – Schwyz and Lucerne.
This mountainous area has been a popular hiking and leisure region for hundreds of years. According to the tourist booklet “Rigi, Queen of the Mountains“, by Ron Smith, the rack railway that climbs from Vitznau at the edge of Lake Lucerne up the side of Rigi, first opened in 1871. It was apparently the first of its kind in Europe.
I recently did a day trip up the mountain, hoping to get above the clouds – I was mostly successful.
I hopped on the sleek bronze Sudostbahn (southeast) train from Zürich early in the morning and travelled alongside Lakes Zürich and Zug to my destination, Arth Goldau.
Right from the beginning of the trip from Zürich to Arth Goldau, there is some lovely scenery. This trip runs along Lake Zürich (left side of the train) with the city spread along hillsides on both sides and the alps rising up in the distance. The next stop is the town of Zug and its lake (right side of the train). Lush green hills rise up from the lake and more mountain peaks can be seen in the distance.
The last stop – Arth Goldau is a large town found at the end of Lake Zug.
The RigiBahn cog train leaves from the edge of this train station, slowly snaking its way around the mountain to the highest summit – Rigi Kulm. The train travels through forests in the Rigiaa valley (this is not a spelling mistake – Aa derives from the name for small European river) and past small stations with names like Klösterli and Fruttli, upwards to the Rigi Kulm peak.
Rigi Kulm – Train station inWinter; Arriving in the fog; View of Lake Zug once the fog had cleared
It was very quiet on the summit. Only about half a dozen people left the train with me which seemed a small amount considering how popular this place is for the Swiss. I then noticed that the restaurant and terrace were closed and the lookout point was disappearing in the cloud. So the fact that I ended up alone at the top was no longer a surprise. (Not sure where the other people disappeared to… somewhere in the fog – I didn’t see them again).
The clouds soon cleared and I had a magnificent 360-degree view – all on my own.
There’s a small and friendly tearoom with outdoor benches and toilets beside the tracks which was good enough for a refuel before starting my walk.
Warning – as these are the only two options at the top, some of the food and all of the drinks are pricey.
Other options are the farm restaurants and grill spots along the way. Alp Chäserenholz is a tavern that can be found around 1.5km downhill from the start of the walk. This place offers some special treats – but you will need to reserve. A Whey bath, hot tub and sauna! Here is the link for more information. Chäserenholzhütte
If the tavern is full – there is a largebbq across the track and another few further down the path.
There are around 120 km of prepared hiking trails in summer and around 35 km in winter available on Rigi. My small walk was just the start. It is possible to get a Rigi Hiking Ticket which gives you the chance to combine hikes with transport on the cable cars and trains. See the rigi.ch/hiking-ticketlink for details.
Although this hike is mostly on farm roads, it still feels remote.
Klösterli Train station – it is like stepping back in time when entering this small station.
My walk from Rigi Kulm – Rigi’s peak – down to Klösterli train station
Travelling to Rigi Kulm (Lake Zug side) and Rigi Kaltbad then Kulm (Lake Lucerne side).
Public Transport:
By Boat on Lake Lucerne:
When travelling by boat from Lucerne there are 2 towns that have transport up to Rigi Kulm (the top) – Weggis or Vitznau:
Weggis to Rigi Kaltbad on the cable car, then cog rail up to Rigi Kulm.
Vitznau to Rigi Kulm on the cog rail.
By Train:
From Lucerne to Arth Goldau – takes about 32 mins.
From Zürich, via Zug to Arth Goldau. Takes 40-45 mins.
Then the cog rail to Rigi Kulm (top) takes about 45 mins.
By Car:
From Zürich via Zug to the RigiBahn cog railway at Arth Goldau train station. Takes 40-45 mins.
From Lucerneto Arth Goldau. Takes 25-40 mins.
From Lucerne to Weggis and Vitznau. Takes 25-45 mins.
The small medieval town of Gruyères is lovely. It is in a magnificent position on the slope of a hill, topped by a fairytale 13th-century castle whose ramparts offer a breathtaking panoramic view. So, it is understandable that this is a popular place for both tour buses and independent tourists.
It is easily accessible from Bern or the Lake Geneva region. To avoid the crowds, an early start is a good idea.
Travel to Broc Fabrique (chocolate factory), then walk through the Jogne gorges to Charmey. At Charmey the LesBains de la Gruyère (thermal baths), like Gruyères and the Jaun Pass, also have panoramic views – but while sitting in a thermal pool. They also offer treatments and wellness packages.
Photo by R. Harris
Photo by A.Leggett
Travel on the Jaun Pass. This pass branches off from Reidenbach in the Simmental valley, canton Bern then winds its way up westward to Im Klang, near Charmey in canton Fribourg. The link from Reidenbach to Charmey is approximately 25 km long and takes about 35 minutes to drive.
It passes through several small settlements and the pretty Jaun village. There is a rest areas and camping ground at the top of the pass with numerous hiking tracks branching off the road. This is a photo of me a few years ago, checking out a walk from the top of the pass (1508 m), where my mum and I bought a snack for eating at the next bench along the road.
There were no benches so we just ate the food sitting on a rock – after getting back in the car and travelling for a few minutes – we came across this bench – Murphys Law.
In winter: There are possibilities for skiing at the top of the pass and around Jaun. This ski area offers:
family friendly skiing with easy downhill slopes
sledding
winter walking and snowshoeing trails
cross-country skiing in the valley
Jaun Dorf Wasserfall Pays d’Enhaut, Schluchtenwanderung Cascade Jaun @Jan Geerk – Switzerland Tourism (2).jpg
Visit the mystical Jaun waterfall while at the village of Jaun. The source was a mystery until the 1920’s, when it was discovered that the water travels underground for 15 km, before emerging at this spring. Many people find this to be a fascinating place and a source of wellbeing.
Do a circular car journey from Gruyères to Gstaad and Zweisimmen, then back along the Jaunpass to the village of Jaun. From Jaun, the trip to Broc (home to Callier chocolate factory) is about 18 km (20 mins), then Gruyères is another 5 km.
I re-created this route on Google Maps. It came out at exactly 100km long, with a travelling time of around 2 hrs.
Drive through the Jaunpass from Spiez, on lakeThun, arriving in Charmey late in the day. Or travel by public transport, stopping at hiking spots on the way through the Jaunpass. When driving this takes about 1 hour
Travel Timeto BrocFabrique (chocolate factory)
Public Transport:
From Lausanne is around 1 hr 20 mins with train and then bus connection at Bulle.
From Bern is around 1 hr 30 mins with train and then bus connection at Bulle.
By Car:
From Lausanne, via Vevey is 45 mins (mostly motorway) to 1 hr. The second option goes alongside lake Geneva so pretty views – especially along the Route duLac through Rivaz and Saint Saphorin.
From Bern, via Fribourg is around 55 minutes.From Fribourg, around 30 mins.
You often hear about traditional craftmanship and old manual skills dying out or being replaced by modern practices. Luckily Switzerland hasn’t fully adopted a modern way of life. In fact, many of the small villages, towns and farms in Switzerland not only continue to use the old traditions, but you will find the local communities working hard to promote these traditions and skills through things like workshops, museums and tourism to ensure the knowledge is kept well and truly alive.
From Appenzell in the west to Ticino and Valais in the south, here are some places worth visiting for an authentic Swiss experience.
Appenzellerland – Local crafts and farming traditions
This whole region oozes tradition and sustainability with local produce, local crafts and traditional practices.
. Photo by Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
A special tradition that is part of the lives of the people here is the annual processions of cattle, that move between the villages and the local pastures.
Each person, cow, goat and bell has its part to play. The white goats, guided by children, lead the way. Next in line are the cows, their huge bells and the herdsmen. Finally, the horse and cart carrying supplies are found at the end. There is music, bell chimes, colour and tradition all woven into each procession.
See my Appenzell page for more details and below for the Urnäsch village traditional farmers market that coincides with the processions.
Villages and their traditions
Photo by Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
Many villages spread around the rolling hills of canton Appenzell are highly self-reliant, with the local farmers, craftspeople and artisans preserving and using the old techniques and traditional way of life. This makes farming a tough, very physical job on the steep hilly farms, however, the communities don’t just work hard together, they also celebrate hard together.
Silvesterchlausen is a special New Years Celebration that goes back centuries. It takes place on the 13th of January each year throughout the region and starts early in the morning, going through until midnight. Locals dress up as characters called ‘Silvesterchläuse Mummers’. The Urnäsch Mummers wear extremely ornate headgear (shown above). According to the Appenzell Tourism Website, these are made by hand over “hundreds of hours”.
Workshops are popular with the locals. In Urnäsch it is possible to:
Make Lanterns from sheets of iron by welding and flame cutting
Hand-craft the wooden facades of houses from local trees – hand tools are used for the complete process.
Urnäsch Village Barbara Steinemann, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Around mid-September each year, the farmers’ market, centrally located at Kronenplatz in Urnäsch offers more than 50 stalls full of local produce from farming families.
There are food stalls, entertainment, and pig races and traditional music played during the day.
In the morning, the alpine descents arrive in the village of Urnäsch, with the herdsmen moving through the village between about 9 a.m. and 1 p.m.
A shuttle bus runs from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. to the outdoor parking spaces on Appenzellerstrasse and at the Furt work station.
The Cheese Dairy inStein
The local cheese
Traditional craftsmanship and practices are used in many of the small cheese dairies in Appenzell.
Cheese-making can be experienced at the small and modern Appenzell Schaukäserei (show cheese dairy) – found deep in the green rolling hills of Appenzell Ausserrhoden, in a small village called Stein – A link to their new website is here. The village of Stein is known as the pearl of Appenzellerland with houses mostly from the 18th century in the centre.
This is a small exhibition, redesigned to showcase the traditions and processes used for making the different types of cheese from this area.
They offer:
Self-guided tours with animated film
cheese tasting & shop
A look at the living traditions and customes in Appenzell Ausserrhoden
A terrace to watch part of the cheese-making process
Restaurant
Next door: Appenzeller Folklore Museum to experience the herdsmen’s culture
Farmers from the region bring fresh and warm milk to one of the 50 authorized cheese dairies. Around 700 years of artisan traditions go into the making of Appenzeller® cheese.
It is possible to walk through the countryside from the cheese dairy. There is a signpost by the carpark and from there it is possible to wander around the hills and small farms (sometimes directly past the front door).
There are plenty of yellow benches found along the paths and roads. The views include:
the Alpstein mountains
Lake Constance
villages ( Stein is in this photo)
forests
traditional farmhouses
and, of course, cheese dairies
Getting to Urnäsch and Stein
To Schaukäserei in Stein:
Public Transport: Train/Bus: From St. Gallen – 18/20 minutes. Car:From Appenzell – 15 minutes; From St. Gallen – 15 mins.
To Urnäsch:
Public Transport: : Train: From St. Gallen, changing at Herisau – 30-40 mins, half-hourly;From Appenzell – 16 mins. Car: From Appenzell – 15 mins; From St. Gallen – approx. 30 mins.
Further Information
Appenzell Schaukäserei (cheese dairy):
Open 364 days from 9am – 5pm. Cheese-making daily until 3pm.
The story of the Zinal and Ayer hamlets in Val d’Anniviers
The area around the small village of Zinal (1670 m) was once occupied by small hamlets that were known as village-mayen – meaning they were only occupied seasonally. As far back as the 16th century, the locals would move from the mountains to the Rhône valley several times a year travelling either on foot or with carts pulled by mules. These people must have been pretty tough and rugged individuals!
In early spring they would go to Sierre to do work in the vineyards and gardens, going back in autumn to harvest the grapes.
In summer they would travel back up to the hamlets to tend to the livestock, bringing them up to the high altitude pastures and preparing hay then in Winter they would make their way back down with the livestock to Ayer to Zinal, feeding the animals the hay, cut in summer.
My guess is – at this stage, they would then hide away in the quiet valley and wrap up warm until spring. If they had snow like this who could blame them…
This lifestyle changed with the coming of tourists in the 19th Century, attracted by the natural environment and the staggering peaks of the Imperial Crown (five peaks over 4,000 m). At this time a couple of large hotels were built to accommodate the growing numbers of tourists.
These days it is possible to hike up to the original pastures and visit the traditional farm buildings that have been preserved to showcase the historical stories of this area.
Within the villages, many of the original farmhouses, community buildings and granaries have also been lovingly restored and are being re-used by the community and for tourism.
Héren cattle were part of the traditional way of life for the village-mayen people. They have certain characteristics that link them back to the wild auroch cattle that used to roam free throughout the European forests and grasslands. Their name originates from the Val d’Hérens region, west of Val d’Anniviers but they are also called fighting cows due to the fact that they designate the herd leader by fighting and locking horns. This habit has now become a spectator sport in the mountains (it is rare for the cows to become injured). More information can be found here.
The Désalpe practice of bringing the livestock up to the alpine pastures in summer and down in winter is also a celebration (as with Appenzell), by processions through the towns which include bringing down the cheese. The cows and sheep are lovingly decorated with flowers. Spectators line the streets and market stalls sell local produce.
Raclette Cheese
I encountered this ‘smelly cheese’ when we first moved to Switzerland in December 2004, or should I say, my nose first encountered it … If you have been to a Swiss Christmas market you should know what I mean.
This strong smell is from the traditional Raclette dish. The Christmas or winter markets always have a few Raclette stalls with special contraptions that melts the top layer of large chunks of cheese. This melted part is scraped off then spread over small potatoes. Some spices are sprinkled on and some mini pickles added and then the cardboard plate is handed out to the eager punters – often along with a glass of Gluhwein (mulled wine).
At first, I would give these stalls a wide berth but after tasting this cheese and getting used to the smell, I would also be one of the eager punters balancing my cheesy potato on a cardboard plate, trying to find a place to stand before burning my hand on my Gluhwein.
Raclette originates from the Valais (Wallis) region and is said to be over 400 years old. In 1812, there was mention of it as a tradition in the Val D’Anniviers region (home to Zinal. Ayer and Grimentz villages) – where sumptuous feasts would begin and close with roasted cheese (“fromage rôti”). This information is fromttmsa.ch which has a section dedicated to Raclette
Local Products found in Valais
There are plenty of ways to enjoy the local food and wine from the region. You can:
Make your own in a bread-making barn in Grimentz or
Visit the wine cellars – for a wine tasting experience – some are open for visits all year round (Good for a break from skiing).
Try a Fondue picnic. The Rando Fondue kit can be picked up from the villages of Chandolin, St-Luc, Zinal, Ayer or Grimentz.finding-the-charming-village-of-grimentz-and-the-val-danniviers-formidable-mountain-roads
Visiting the area
By Bus: Sierre – Ayers/Zinal, changing at Vissoie, approx. 45/60 mins Car: Sierre – Zinal approx. 40 mins. See sbb.ch for up-to-date info.
While in the region: In canton Valais there are several attractive villages that are car free with amazing sights and surroundings. I have listed them below.
Ticino – Scudellate – the revival of a mountain hamlet – Albergo Diffuso
Muggio Valley
Valle di Muggio – Turro-Copyright Ticino Turismo – Foto Nicola Demaldi
The traditional manufacturing processes and culinary history of the local food are important to the small towns found in this very remote valley of Ticino.
It is easy to visit this valley without your car. With the opening of the Gotthard Base Tunnel in December 2020, it is now a lot quicker to travel from northern Switzerland to the Muggio Valley by train and bus.
It takes around 3 hours 30 mins from Zürich main station by train & bus, to arrive in the small village of Scudellate at the far end of the valley. Admittedly you will need to make 4 changes to do this… To get to the towns of Muggio & Cabbio – considered two of the most attractive villages in Switzerland – it is 3 hours and 3 changes.
The Muggio Valley offers:
The 700 year old Bruzella mill (between Bruzella and Cabbio) is still in operation. This mill has an old craft workshop, produces polenta and uses rare red maize native to Ticino.
The village of Muggio has buildings made of local stone and Cabbio has lovely historical fountains.
Muggio has views of the terraced slopes across the valley.
At the end of Muggio valley lies the small village of Scudellate – with only 20 inhabitants.
A special project to preserve this village has been made possible because of the vision and work of a local man called Oscar Piffaretti.
The project opens up the well-preserved and remote villageof Scudellate, allowing tourists to experience the living traditions and local produce. The project is called Albergo Diffuso which translates as a scattered hotel and has been funded by, amongst other organisations, Swiss Mountain Aid. Additionally, there is another village in Ticino that has been transformed into an Albergo Diffuso, called Corippo in the Verzasca Valley.
The Scudellate village will offer:
Refurbished buildings including: – The pretty Osteria Manciana which is a mini-hotel with dining rooms, the old schoolhouse has also been converted to accommodation and the ForesteriaB&B with one other building being added on the Alpe Caviano.
A shop will be added to the Osteria selling local produce
Events will be offered such as cooking courses, wine tasting, and cultural excursions.
The refurbishments and building is being done in stages (21/22/23). For more information gohere.
Getting There
Public Transport from Zürich:
EC train: (Eurocity) Zürich – Lugano; S-Train Lugano – Mendrisio; Postbus Mendrisio – Morbio; Postbus Morbio – Cabbio. This connection takes 3 hours. Note: There are also other connections – see sbb.ch.
Public Transport from Locarno:
Locarno – Mendrisio 45-55 mins then postbus as above.
Driving from Zürich:
From central Zürich – Scudellate approx. 3 hrs 30 mins, via Gotthard Tunnel (can be much longer as the Gotthard Tunnel is notorious for traffic jams).
I recently visited the remote village of Grimentz in the Val d’Anniviers while staying in Sierre in the Rhône Valley.
Although the Val d’Anniviers is very accessible from Sierre (bus and car, not train), it is still a nerve-tingling road trip.
I decided to travel by bus, letting someone else worry about the switchbacks and narrow roads.
Road Trip – the adventure
I had only glanced briefly at the road map before doing this journey, thinking that the bus would take me down the valley, then zig-zag for a short while before arriving in Grimentz. I was wrong. If you look closely at a map, you will see that the zig-zagging starts early, then the road cuts into the side of the steep mountains – very high up.
The buses find it particularly tricky as they often need to use both sides of the road to negotiate these switchbacks. They will alert oncoming traffic in the nicest possible way. If you have been on any mountain road on a post bus you will know what I mean. They toot the horn which has a very distinctive & loud sing-song tune. On this particular journey, it can be heard regularly – after a few tight corners, the sing-song horn started to sound suspiciously like brace, brace, brace!
Vissoie Village Centre, Photo by A.Leggett
I was sitting beside the window closest to the drop, having a look now and then, only to see … nothing except the valley below. What amazed me was how calm all the other passengers seemed. Now and then I would frantically look around, hoping to share my obvious nervous energy with others. No one even looked at me, in fact, most of the passengers were chatting calmly or nodding off. I assumed they were locals. Their relaxed states did help calm me somewhat.
Vissoie (1204 m) is located around the centre of the valley and during the trip, the valley floor gradually gains altitude and the road’s curves become more gentle. By the time we arrived the sing-song horn was no longer needed and I had regained my composure.
From Vissoie the road splits in several directions. One way is towards my destination, Grimentz (1572 m) – higher on the southwest side of the valley; or the route to Ayer (1475 m) and Zinal (1675 m) on the southeast side. Another road zig-zags eastward to St-Luc (1,655 m). Due to Vissoie’s geographical location, this is a stage in the trip when passengers need to change buses. When I arrived there was a flurry of people with backpacks and walking poles, moving from one bright yellow bus to another, ready to continue their journey further along the valley.
After all the twists and turns of the road trip, Vissoie feels quite remote but at the same time, it has the look of a resort-style alpine village. At this point, I was looking longingly at the terraced restaurants and chalet-style cafés decorated with bright red geraniums, wanting to stop for a while before moving on, but, of course, Swiss public transport runs like clockwork and my next bus was ready to leave, with or without me.
The road from Vissoie to Grimentz passes through hills and steep meadows rather than dramatic cliffs with beautiful views down the valley.
All in all, it was an amazing experience with unbelievable views – and despite my obvious nervousness, the drivers are experts, and the roads are well maintained and safe.
The Rustic Historical Buildings and some of their Stories
This picturesque village, filled with geraniums in summer, is considered to be one of the most traditional villages of Valais. This is down to the authenticity of its centre. Many of the buildings have been incredibly well preserved with the narrow streets, alleyways and courtyards still feeling like they would have hundreds of years ago.
Traditionally this valley was home to nomadic inhabitants who lived for part of the year in the Rhône Valley. Nowadays fewer people live this way although, in summer, some residence move down to the valley to work in the vineyards.
When visiting the information centre, it is possible to purchase a guide booklet that has a simple numbered map that showing and explaining places of interest in the town.
These are some of the stories from this village:
Looking towards the main square and Bourgeoisie house
One of the oldest houses in Grimentz, found at the far end of this street, was built between 1480 and 1550. This house belonged to the “Bourgeoisie”. The exclusive membership included priority access to services like the mill and sawmill. Being a member was also a way of contributing to the community.
In 1873 a cross was erected to protect the village against fire and the elements.
The mill was understandably an important part of all the villages in this region – since it played a big part in keeping the locals fed. In Grimentz its location also housed the sawmill, bread oven, bread room and slaughterhouse.
There are three animated fountains in the village. The mill worker fountain, a fountain representing fighting Héren cows and the fountain of the baker.
A landslide in 1999 caused both the mill and the original fountain of the baker to be destroyed. The mill was then built with the original materials and the baker’s fountain was also reconstructed.
The Bread House offers tourists the opportunity to make bread in the original bread room every week. Winter: from mid-December to mid-April; Summer: from the beginning of July to the end of October. A notice on the door advises that on the days of bread making there will be smoke coming out of the building and not to be alarmed.
Originally the bread house was where families would come to make bread for the season – four times a year. The bread would, of course, harden over time but families simply cut it with an axe and soaked it in milk, coffee or soup. Perhaps we could learn a thing or two from this.
The houses in the old town mostly date from the 17th and 18th centuries. They are all made of larch which is darkened with time.
The original storehouses and granaries can be seen throughout the old town streets. They date from the 17th century. The stilts are to prevent rodents from getting in and to keep the provisions dry.
Things like dried meat, bread and flour were kept here.
Glacier Wine (Vin du Glacier)
I remember someone telling me that if you like the wine, then it is a good one… I am really curious as to how this particular wine tastes. Hint Hint.
To explain the principle behind Vin du Glacier wine, I have quoted the explanation from the Val d’Anniviers website:
“The principle of the Vin du Glacier is simple: the barrels are never emptied. Every year new wine is added to the old. For example :
– The wine in a barrel from 1888 will be blended with one from 1886 – Wine from 1934 will top up the 1888 barrel – Wine from 1969 will be used to top up the 1934 barrel and will in turn receive new wine in later years
The “Vin du Glacier” cannot be bought. It can only be savoured in the cellars of Anniviers, drawn directly from the barrel.
The cellar of the Maison Bourgeoisiale (ancient Community House) houses among others the famous Bishop’s Barrel. The wine in this larch-wood barrel dates from 1886. Once destined to the Bishop, it is served nowadays to VIP guests on special occasions.“
Quote from https://www.valdanniviers.ch/en/glacier-guided-tour-house-bourgeoisie-grimentz-960.html
It is possible to taste the Vin du Glacier wine while visiting Grimentz. (Minimum of 4 people and the language is French). Currently, it is limited to specific dates, weekly, on Mondays at 5 pm. Therefore it is best to arrange any wine tasting at the Grimentz Tourism office or Val d’Anniviers website.
Alpage de la Lée ( La Lée Alpine Pastures)is in a far corner of the Val d’Anniviers
Right at the end of the valley, there are around 800 hectares of pastures in the Alpage de la Lée area. They are spread over different levels from the Plats de la Lée up to the Zinal glacier and between the Navisence River in the valley and themountain peaks high above the valley on the west side.
In the area known as Le Vichiesso, a former alpine pasture, you will find a tsigière (alpine chalet) reconstructed in the traditional style, (a cheesestoreroom can be visited on request). Vichiesso pastures and buildings give an idea of life on the alpine pastures in the past.
Information panels can be found leading up toPetit Mountet mountain hut(2142 m) – open for eating and sleeping from June to October. There are some more traditional huts on the further up.
To get there see my orientation & info tab
Video by Cabane du Petit Mountet – Val d’Anniviers
Bisse des Sarrisins (Irrigation channels of the Saracens)
It is believed that Saracens built the irrigation channel, however, this has never been proven. They are estimated to have been built between 1415 and 1513 when the channel’s source was at a Moulinet (downstream from Pinsec).
The Bisse des Sarrisins irrigation channel is 10 km long and was used for watering livestock, irrigating the pastures and operating sawmills and mills.
Restored in the early 2000s, the Bisse des Sarrasins path is now accessible to hikers. It connects Pinsec to Vercorin and can also be reached from the village of Fang.
You will need a good head for heights in various parts on various parts of this trail.
Useful information
Season for hiking: from May to November
Duration: Approx. 3 hours
Includes: 17 educational panes along the route
Important
This mountain route is medium difficulty
It should only be attempted in dry weather
You will need a head for heights in some places
It’s each person’s responsibility to look for any changes to conditions or the roads/track before doing it.
Below is a link for more information on Bisse des Saracens and other hikes:
This Val D’Anniviers page gives details on popular trails including the Bisse des Saracens hike and hikes to alpine lakes and alpine huts.
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Visiting the Mills
The Grimentz mills date back to 1716. They were renovated in the early 1970s, and a vertical waterwheel was installed on the south façade to recreate a working site.
As mentioned on the village tab, the mill was refurbished in the traditional style, with millstones and a horizontal blade drive system, after part of it was badly damaged in May 1999
The Saint-Luc mills (Les Moulins Saint-Luc) can be found near Saint-Luc, down at the Torrent des Moulins river. These mills were built in the 16th century and renovated in 1986. On the site of the mills, you will find a corn mill, barley and nut press, 2 rye and wheat mills, a cloth mill, and the miller’s house. See the local tourism office for opening times
To get there and map see my orientation & info tab
Winter in Vissoie Village as seen from St Luc
In the past, the steep elevation of the mountains in this part of Valais caused the region to become isolated. This resulted in the formation of some unique regional dialects. Although the local population still use these dialects, they also speak standard French and German.
Interesting Fact:
The western part of the canton is mostly French-speaking (Valais) and the eastern part (Wallis) is mostly German-speaking. The mountain ridges between Val d’Anniviers and the Turtmanntal valley are considered the imaginary line or “Röstigraben” that separates the two. The clue is in the names of the valleys – Tal is German, Val is French.
See Below for Transport Information
Places mentioned in this post are displayed on the map
Transport Information
Buses leave regularly from Sierre to Vissoie (change here for connections to further down the valley, or across to St Luc). See sbb.ch for timetable and route information.
Main Routes
Sierre – Vercorin
Sierre – Vissoie
Vissoie – St-Luc
Vissoie – Grimentz
Vissoie – Grimentz – Lac de Moiry
Vissoie – (stops at Ayer) – Zinal
Cable Cars, Gondolas, chairlifts and St Luc’s Funicular
