This blog shows places that are often a side note or not found in most guide books. Let me show you my favourite spots - places that are just a bit off the beaten track in this beautiful country.
Ski trails and Glarus mountains of the Pizol in the eastern Heidiland Region – – View from chairlift
February in Switzerland is traditionally a time when skiers flock to the numerous ski resorts that cover the Swiss Alps. There are all kinds of winter sports locations – from the large multi-region resorts to the smaller locally run pistes and finally, to the blink and you would miss alpine villages that transform hillside meadows and mountain slopes into ski runs (my favourite). There are so many options all over the country. Unfortunately, the alpine regions normally covered in thick snow at this time of year are experiencing more and more instances where they struggle to keep the snow on the pistes, mountain trails and sledge runs.
Planning a Snowy Getaway
These warmer winters have made it more problematic to plan a ski-based getaway in the Alps. However, as an added safeguard to ensure visitors continue to come, the ski resorts are adding more autumn and spring-like activities to keep attracting winter sports enthusiasts. These alternatives to skiing have become a necessity for local businesses to keep operating through the winter months.
When trying to organise a dream ski holiday, these are the issues that can arise:
You booked your holiday months ago, have all the equipment organised and have committed to staying in a particular holiday home or hotel. The issue: The snow is melting fast and your accommodation is now surrounded by flattened grass and mud…
You have no idea what to expect and what to commit to before starting your holiday. The issue: Do you book ski lessons or tickets early or do you wait and hope the prices don’t rise?
Solutions
1. Keep Informed
Information Board at Ibergeregg near Schwyz, Central Switzerland
Download the Swiss Tourism Swiss Snow App – this clarifies everything you need to know about conditions in pretty much any ski area in Switzerland. Some of the details include: the depth of the snow – in both the mountains and the valleys, what lifts are open and webcams for a proper inspection. This App also has maps and advice on the type of snow, prices for tickets, offers, tobogganing runs, snow parks, and winter hiking trails through forests where the snow tends to stick around. Also, most importantly for this post, other types of activities.
Bergflex.ch is an amazing source of information about ski resorts all over the country. Information includes snow depth, number of lifts, prices, altitude, km of pistes, and links to accommodation… all on one page! Worth viewing for up-to-date information.
You can always go further upwards or outwards. The Swiss Alps are surprisingly compact and the public transport is legendary. It’s easy to get from valley or mountain accommodation to other resorts or higher altitudes by public transport.
Example 1: Try The Graubünden Pass, a rail pass which covers over 7,106 square kilometres of the canton and 150 valleys. This pass includes half-price travel on certain mountain rail journeys. It also covers travel on the Post bus routes, the little red Rhätischen Rail line and some cable cars. This region is full of high-altitude ski resorts, small pistes, ice-skating, sled runs, alternative winter activities and lovely small villages. The wild Bernina mountains are particularly good for guaranteed winter snow and a chance to view the Diavolezza Glacier which can be viewed from the top of a cable car at around 3,000 metres above sea level. It is possible to ski around here from the middle of October to the start of May.
Example 2: Snow ‘n’ Rail by Switzerland Rail Network – sbb.ch. By booking through the public transport website it is possible to book a combination of public transport and 1 day or multi-day ski passes for over 25 ski regions. These passes are discounted and can include the return journey and the relevant transport options for getting up the mountain. Discounts can be as much as 30%, depending on the time of year.
Plenty of resources are always available to see what to do and where to do it. The local tourism authorities have stepped up over the last few years. You can always find informative brochures, booklets or online advice on winter activities. There are loads of options wherever you are.
… and, of course, for those lesser-known spots… try my blog 🙂
The truth about how mountains are made is unveiled in the amazing Pizol alpine region. Found in the UNESCO World Heritage Sardona Tectonic Arena, this region is full of panoramic wonders – you just need to know where to look.
The Pizol High Plateau is like a viewing platform of geological events going back millennia. You can see mountain chains once part of the African plate, the Rhine Valley, once a huge glacier, snaking off into the distance and mountain peaks, once hundreds of metres below the ocean in deep-sea trenches, now over 2,500 metres above sea level covered in snow. But the region is mostly famous for the discovery that geologists and scientists made here – how mountains are formed. The collision of plates can be seen in the clearly defined layers of rock over 300 million years old, now known as the “Glarus thrust”.
Why would anyone want to miss a show like that?
How to view mighty mountains and the Rhine Valley –Pizol’s Panorama Trail
Sign meanings: Yellow indicates Ski Tours 34 & 35 down to Gaffia middle chairlift station, Brown/red is the red ski slope to Gaffia and Green indicates the paragliding site – available in both summer and winter. Pink is for winter trail 172 – Panorama circular trail – more detail below.
Doing the Panorama Trail
Length: 3.6 km | Duration: 1 hour 10 mins | Height Difference: 30 m | Start: Either Wangs or Bad Ragaz gondola stations
Location
When travelling by car, the Pizol Region is reached via the main A3 motorway in a southeast direction from Zürich. Around 30 minutes after travelling across the southern tip of Lake Zürich the motorway runs through the Rhine Valley where dramatic views of the Alps rise up in front of you – of course, this depends on the weather. The Glarus Valley to the west, is notorious for fog but once this clears the mighty peaks are visible all around. Once travelling through tunnels and alongside Walensee (Lake Walen), the Rhine Valley widens and this is when signposts for Wangs and Bad Ragaz come into view. From here it is easy to exit the motorway and find a park at the valley stations of both gondolas.
When taking public transport the views from the train start in the valley and include the wonderful Walensee. From Wangs or Bad Ragaz buses connect the train station to the gondolas.
The Trail
The Pizol high plateau stretches out between the top chairlift stations Laufböden and the Pizolhütte, with the magnificent Panorama Höhenweg circular hiking trail meandering between these two points. The crowning glory is the summit panorama and the Grand Tour of Switzerland photo spot at the Tagweidlichopf viewpoint. The circular trail is dedicated to the UNESCO World Heritage Tectonic Arena Sardona.
Highlights:
Large info panel at the panoramic viewing platform with astounding insights into the formation of the Alps.
Grand Tour of Switzerland Photo Spot.
360-degree views.
Clear views of the ridging and folding of rock strata known as the Glarus Thrust.
Well-groomed paths in a stunning winter landscape.
Friendly staff
Cosy mountain restaurants with indoor and outdoor seating.
Panorama Benches
My Experience
I was lucky enough to have an invitation from the lovely staff at Pizol Tourism and Marketing after asking for information about winter walking in the area.
I planned to explore the area with a friend. The idea was that we would get familiar with the area by taking the gondola and chair lifts to the top, have a coffee at the Pizolhütte Restaurant, do the trail, take plenty of photos and learn more about the Tectonic Arena, then finish for another drink before going down to the valley.
View from chairlift – ski trails and the Glarus mountains hidden under thick snow.
Getting to the Pizol Plateau
Great theory but unfortunately my friend couldn’t make it so I was on my own. It was not a problem except when I arrived I was surrounded by skiers, a gondola trip then 2 chair lift rides to the top. I imagined sharing a chair lift with a seasoned skier – they would gracefully alight at the top station, swishing off into the snowy distance, I, however, would be forced to run along the hard snowy floor of the station, probably slip, ending up under the chairlift with the possibility of my backpack strap hooked around some part of the lift. The staff would be forced to stop the lifts while unhooking me and pulling me to my feet. I would then limp off, spending the rest of my time on the mountain worrying about the trip down.
Attentive Staff
Of course, it didn’t happen like that. The lift staff were very attentive and made sure I was not travelling with skiers, also the exit from the lifts was very straightforward – I just took a step to the side and was on firm ground. There were also plenty of other people doing the winter walks so, most importantly, I was not alone.
So I started the Panorama trail completely relaxed, breathing in the crisp alpine air, bathed in sunlight, buzzing at the thought of walking on the well-groomed paths. It was very early in the day and the snow was pretty hard on the trail. This meant a bit of slipping and sliding to start with, which was viewed by others in the chair lift but at that point, I didn’t care. The wonderful thing about the Pizol plateau is that you feel like you are on top of the world, with views of mountains going on forever into the distance. A few slips and slides didn’t matter. I just waved at my audience and continued to slip and slide down the path.
After the initial challenge, the path softened and was easier to negotiate. I would recommend sturdy winter boots for the walk and I noticed some other hikers have poles, but these are not required.
Near the start of the trail looking towards the Tagweidlichopf viewpoint.
The Hike
The high plateau at 2222 meters, that the trail crosses, is positioned in front of the Sardona Tectonic Arena like a naturally shaped viewing platform. The views are in all directions – towards the World Heritage Glarus mountains, across the Rhine Valley and as far as Lake Constance in clear weather, then layers of Alps disappearing into the distance.
On the trail, looking towards Pizolhütte Restaurant and chairlift.
Beautiful shapes are made from shadows created by the morning sun. Lake Wangser (Wangsersee) is hidden under snow and ice.
Tagweidlichopf vantage point
The high-altitude trail is lined with information about the view, the origin of the Alps and the UNESCO World Heritage Site. One of the highlights is the Tagweidlichopf vantage point (2275 m above sea level) with a 360-degree panoramic view and a large panoramic viewing guide explaining the geological changes and events that created the landscape.
A Grand Tour of Switzerland photo spot with a view of the Pizol summit and its glacier was installed here in July 2018. The Pizol was chosen as one of the 40 most beautiful photo spots in Switzerland.
How to get thereand a map of walking routes with lifts
A gondola and chairlift complete the journey up to the Pizol Plateau from Bad Ragaz – Laufböden (2,224 m). Another option is with a gondola and 2 chairlifts from the town of Wangs -Pizolhütte station (2,222 m). All lifts connect seamlessly. The map below displays the lifts.
Winter hiking trail – Pizol Panorama Höhenweg (high altitude walk). Can also be done in summer.
To the Valley Station at Wangs or Bad Ragaz
Public Transport
Zürich main station to Bad Ragaz train station: Taking 1 hr 16 mins (depending on connection), then the bus to Bad Ragaz Pizol Bahn (gondola) takes 13 mins. (Check the sbb.ch timetable for exact connection times).
Zürich main station to Sargans train station: Taking 1 hr 10/ 1 hr 30 mins (depending on connection), then the bus to Wangs Pizolbahn (gondola) takes 10 mins. (Check the sbb.ch timetable for exact connection times).
Car
Central Zürich – around 90 km to Wangs gondola car and 95 km to Bad Ragaz gondola car park – taking around 1 hour 40 mins/ 2 hours depending on traffic.
Lucerne – 85 km to the region.
Gondolas and chairlifts
Access to the top (Pizol Plateau)
Bad Ragaz: 8-seater Gondola Bad Ragaz-Pardiel and 4-seater chairliftto Laufböden.
Wangs: 8-seater Gondola Wangs-Furt and 4-seater chairlift Furt-Gaffia then 4-seater chairlift Gaffia-Pizolhütte.
Where and how to enjoy off-the-beaten-track activities in Switzerland‘s magic winter landscape– away from the busy ski pistes.
It’s easy to find sublime winter landscapes in Switzerland but sometimes it can be difficult to find the right activities once you are there. The 7 activities that I chose are great for enjoying the snowy atmosphere, the views and the wonderful natural environment and, of course, for having some serious fun. They are sledding, winter hiking, snowshoeing, ice-skating, snow kite surfing, snow biking and alpine thermal baths.
Learning to Ski in Switzerland’s Magic Winter Landscape as an adult
I am a perpetual beginner when it comes to skiing. Despite living an hour’s drive from a ski field in NZ, the farm took top priority, so skiing simply wasn’t on our radar.
I first learned to ski in Bulgaria on a backpacking trip. It was a bad start – the snow was starting to melt when we arrived… and didn’t stop melting.
My next experience with skiing was when my husband and I took a road trip through Europe many years ago. We had a blast attempting to stay upright on the slopes in Andorra and Austria. Without the budget for ski lessons, it was a bit hit or miss – with a few noteworthy wipeouts that we still laugh about today. Somehow we managed to avoid any broken limbs although our pride was pummeled by children offering to help us up way too often.
Over the years I have slowly improved but I am still happy with the beginners’ slopes. It doesn’t stop me from loving it (unless I venture onto a black slope in error, then it is simply terrifying).
As far as I am concerned, the point of skiing is to get out of the house, shake off the winter cobwebs, and have some fun, however, skiing isn’t the only option. I have come up with a few alternatives which can be just as much fun but maybe less terrifying (in some cases).
1. Sledding and Snowshoe hike in the Albula Valley
The iconic Preda to Bergün tobogganing run with a circular snowshoe walk
Sled run from Preda to Bergün
The Albula Pass tobogganing run
I didn’t try sledging until I was an adult – our farm was in the Canterbury Plains… so pretty flat. It took a lot of courage to do the Preda to Bergün tobogganing run in the Albula Pass. It is only possible to use the daunting wooden Davos sleds, however, my courage was rewarded with a crazy family day out that included idyllic train trips uphill and action-packed, slightly out-of-control trips back down.
Tip: There are different types of wooden Davos sleds depending on your level and confidence. The beginner sleds are easier to control and slower and most have a soft seating area.
The tobogganing run is special for 2 reasons:
Reason 1: The train journey from Bergün twists & turns through the mountains of the Albula Pass and over elegant viaducts to reach the start of the tobogganing rungiving you a taste of the UNESCO World Heritage Albula line.
Reason 2: The 6 km tobogganing run goes directly under the viaducts and, if you time it right, at the same time as the trains speed over them.
Tip: A good time to do this run is between train arrival times in Preda. We hired some snowshoes and did a circular track that goes past the pretty Palpuognasee (Lake Palpuogna), then replaced our snowshoes with sleds at the rental kiosk, managing to get going long before the train full of other sledders arrived.
Snowshoe trail to Lago Palpuogna
Lake Palpuogna – once voted as the most beautiful spot in Switzerland
Palpuogna snowshoe (Schneeschuh) Trail No. 528
Hike Distance: 5 km
Level: Easy/Medium
Duration: 2 hours
Ascent: 220 m
In the winter, when snow covers the Albula Pass, this region truly becomes a magic winter landscape. The Rhaetian Railway journey that passes through the small hamlet of Preda is often full of sleds and their owners making sure they don’t fall down as the train twists and turns through the tunnels and over the curved viaducts. This train ride is very smooth so all sleds and anybody standing close to them are pretty safe.
When leaving the train the majority of the people will be heading for the sled run. The snowshoe trail, in the opposite direction, is a calmer alternative to experience the peaceful natural environment of this area.
Short-cut option near Preda Photo A.Leggett
TheRoute
This circular trail from Preda train station follows old mule trails and leads to the beautiful Lake Palpuogna. The signposts, which are pink with a picture of a snowshoe, are easy to follow. This is a beautiful place to visit even though the lake is often covered in snow. Far away from any town or roads (the pass is closed to traffic in winter), this trail leads through pine forests and has lovely mountain views.
Some Tips
Tip 1:This is a great walk when trying out snowshoeing for the first time since most of the trail is groomed and reasonably easy.
Tip 2:Have your snack breaks in amongst the trees. The lake was exposed to an icy wind when wedid the hike and the only place to sit was a snow-covered bench with only the top showing. We used that as a seat, then quickly ate our snacks and took off into the forest which is where we should have stopped as the temperature was nice and mild amongst the trees.
Tip 3: The official map for the Palpuogna snowshoe trail can be found on the Swiss Mobility website. This website is also great for the national network of winter and snowshoe routes around the country.
Information
Services
Snowshoe and Sled Rental – Mark Sportin Bergün – staff are always friendly and happy to help. The Kiosk directly at Preda train station also hires a selection of sleds and snow shoes.
Getting There
The toboggan run and snowshoe trail both start from the train station at Preda.
Train: Bergün to Preda – 17 minutes and leaves regularly throughout the day. See sbb.ch for details. The Albula Pass road is closed to traffic during the winter months.
2. Thermal Baths in the Lower Engadin and Viamala Region
Engadin Bad Scuol(Bogn Engiadina) in the Upper Engadin
Inside the Bogn Engiadina, Image by Anita Leggett
The town of Scuol is the biggest town in the Lower Engadin Valley. It takes a bit of effort to get here but the journey through wild landscapes and past idyllic villages; as well as the magical views, from the baths themselves, are all good reasons to come.
What is available at the Scuol baths*
Panorama pool, approx. 33 ° C
Exercise and therapy pool, 33 ° C
Brine pool – 2% brine, approx. 33 ° C
Whirlpool – approx. 36 ° C
Grottos – Cold water, 18 ° C and warm water grotto, 36 ° C
We stayed in Andeer for a ski week in 2018 and found these mineral baths around the corner from our accommodation. We often went there in the evenings. I think I enjoy the thermal baths as much as the skiing!
The Andeer Mineral Baths are found in the small, typical Graubünden village of Andeer. This is an ideal place if you are looking for peace and quiet. They have cobbled streets and a pretty town center with a welcoming bakery. The buses leave from this area regularly to Splügen Tambo ski resort which can be reached in 13 mins or 15 minutes by car.
What is available at the Andeer baths*
One indoor and one outdoor mineral pool (good size) – both with bubble, whirlpool & neck shower
Constant 34 degrees
Evening light display in the outdoor pool
Wellness
Finnish sauna and bio sauna as well as a steam bath (currently reserved for women only from 6-9 pm).
Splash and Spa Tamaro Abo – 20% off ski pass (see website for details)
*As of Dec 2023
For up-to-date information and a funny video go to their website. Also, theSplügen Tambowebsite gives more information about the Splash and Spa Tamaro discount (20% off your day ski pass with entry to the spa).
Some lesser-known ski resorts in canton Graubünden – great for beginners
Splügen Tambo Ski Area – great skiing for beginners. Photo: A. Leggett
If you want to have a go at skiing far from the crowds. I recommend these small lesser-known ski slopes, also in canton Graubünden, that offer great practice runs for beginners – big or small.
Splügen – Tambo, The ski resort is close to Andeer and offers a wide variety of beginner & family slopes. Splügen is also a lovely, well-preserved historical town, across the road from the resort.
Tip: Book ski passes online, ski during the week or low season for lower prices and the day passes are discounted when combined with entry to the Andeer thermal baths.
Bergün, Graubünden – 1 beginner and 1 blue slope – both small – They are really good for practice before going to the neighbouring slopes of Darlux ski area: 3 lifts & 25km of slopes.
Pany – tiny ski resort with plenty of room to practice. Photo: A.Leggett
Pany(in Luzein, Prättigau, Graubünden) – a tiny ski area with 1 (very long) T-bar lift, 1 children’s lift and 7 km of runs. It includes a small number of good-sized runs through trees to make it interesting. Also offers a ski school and a lovely restaurant with a terrace.
If you are looking for one of the most beautiful winter landscapes in Switzerland you cannot avoid the Upper Engadin. This wide valley sits at 1,800 metres above sea level and is equipped with many frozen lakes, wide sweeping slopes and craggy mountain ranges; pristine villages and glamourous towns – St Moritz is one of the most well-known. Winters here are a blessing for winter sport enthusiasts with regular low temperatures, keeping the landscape white and the lakes frozen.
Lake Silvaplana is a large lake battered by the Maloja winds that sweep over the lake around midday each day. This and the large expanse of snow-covered ice make this lake a mecca for snow-kite surfing enthusiasts. The good news is that it has become a major sport which means better training, and plenty of options for beginners upwards – this includes beginner skiers (understandably, you do need to stand and move confidently on skis).
Swiss Kite Centre and School
This is the home of kite surfing and snow kite surfing. The owner, Swiss-born Stefan Popprath taught his first student snowkiting in 1994 even before an official name was given to the sport.
He founded the centre after realised the Maloja wind and the location of the lake was perfect for kites and surfing so, after some inspiration from another adventurer, Reinhold Messner, and researching and testing equipment, he set up the kite surfing centre in the 1990s. Anything you need to know about the centre and the sport is available on his website or by visiting the sport centre itself.
The Locations and other activities
Swiss Kitesurf has three locations. The main one is at the centre on Lake Silvaplana, the others are Furtschella – 5 mins from the centre and the Bernina Pass 20 mins from the centre. The Kite Surfing Centre is part of Mulet sport centre which also has an ice-skating rink, hockey field and curling.
Information
Services
Kite Rental – Seetheir websitefor information on Kite rental and schooling.
Food and Drink – Restaurant Mulets – Just above the kite surfing sports centre – with great views of the lake and mountains. See the kite sailing website for more information.
Getting There
Public Transport:Chur to Kite School Silvaplana train/bus journey time: 2 hours 30 mins with changes. St. Moritz by bus 17 minutes including an 8-minutewalk from the bus stop. See sbb.ch for timetables.
The 2.5 km Via da Glatsch ice-skating trail runs alongside the River Inn and links the villages of Zuoz to Madulain. These two traditional villages have stunning architecture and sit in a sunny part of the Engadin valley. Even though these villages are only around 25 minutes by train from the extravagant St. Moritz, they feel a world away. Zuoz is pretty and quiet with local produce and traditions everywhere. The tourist information offers a walking tour of the town with details about the history of different buildings and the everyday lives of the people living in this part of the Upper Engadin Valley.
Another Ice-Skating option – Lake St. Moritz (St. Moritzersee).
Glamorous people sparkle this time of year in St. Moritz. Some do literally sparkle and it can be blinding. Apart from this side of St. Moritz, there are some very cool groomed ice-skating tracks on the lake. They are nice and wide and you always have the option to rest in the snow at the side. This is such an idyllic location and it is difficult not to be impressed.
Information
Services for Ice-Skating Trail
Skate Rental – Willy Sport in Zuoz; Colamo Sport in La Punt Chamues-ch; Promulins Arena, Samedan
Admission Cost:- CHF5
Getting There
Train: St. Moritz – Madulain 21 mins; St.Moritz – Zuoz – 26 mins hourly changing at Samedan.
Sledding in the Bernese Oberland’s Reichenbach Valley
The Bernese Oberland’s Rychenbach River Valley connects the Meiringen region to the Grindelwald region. This valley gains altitude from Meiringen to the Grosse Scheidegg Pass.
The Reichenbach Valley
One of the oldest and best-preserved funiculars in Switzerland climbs from Meiringen village up to the alpine valley. The valley gradually gains altitude from the top of the funicular to Grosse Scheidegg (850 m – 1962 m) and is surrounded by views of dramatic mountains.
The valley has forests, wide open fields, theRosenlaui Gorge and the impressive Reichenbach River. Little hamlets and the romanticRosenlaui Hotel can be found along the way. The Post Bus is one of the few forms of transport that can use the small windy road without restrictions.
Where to Sled
This kind of landscape is perfect for winter sledding. The post bus travels from Meiringen up to the valley’s highest point – Grosse Scheidegg. From here it is an exciting 5.5 km ride on the sled down to the hamlet of Schwarzwaldalp where the bus once again takes you and your sled up to start all over again.
The views are amazing with the run at the foot of the dramatic Wetterhorn and the Horn range of mountains.
Experience Needed:Suitable for both novices and experienced riders.
Tip. There are also many snowshoe trails in the Reichenbach Valley.
Information
Services
Sled Rental– from the Chalet-Hotel Schwarzwaldalp. Food and Drink – there are restaurants and services at both ends of the sled run – Schwarzwaldalp and Grosse Scheidegg.
Getting There
Public Transport – Interlaken to Meiringen
Sledding – A special Schlitten (sled) Bus runs regularly from Meiringen to Schwarzwaldalp and then up to Grosse Scheidegg.
Operating times 2023/2024
Daily: from 26th December 2023 to 7th January 2024
Thursday to Sunday: from 11th January to 3rd March 2024
Velogemel is a cross between a bike and a sled. Now used as an adrenalin-fuelled activity, this contraption was originally meant as an everyday way of getting about in the winter months for the locals. Developed and patented by Christian Bühlmann from Grindelwald back in 1911, it was known as a “single-track steerable sled”.
The Velogemel toboggan run is the bottom part of the Big Pintenfritz tobogganing run which is considered the longest in Europe at 15 km and is classed as difficult. So think carefully before attempting it.
Where the Velogemel run starts and finishes
Starts: At Bussalp (1,800 m). The stunning views from Bussalp include the world-famous Alp trio – Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. The descent gives an adrenalin hit in terms of speed and balance and is definitely a very original and adventurous way to fly down a mountain.
Finishes: In either Grindelwald,Weidli (2.5 km northwest of the train station) or Grindelwald Village depending on the conditions. (See Info section below for more details).
Tip 1: If you only want to watch these bike-sleds in action, the Velogemel World Championships take place at the beginning of February every year (since 1996) – the races start from Bussalp.
Tip 2:It is better to do the run in the morning as the snow can get soft and sludgy later in the day.
Tip 2: There are also plenty of other toboggan runs with all levels of difficulty starting from or going through Bussalp. See this link for more information – Grindelwaldbus.
“City Run – The Classic” Toboggan Run, Bussalp – Weidli
Information
Services
Velogemel Rental – Rent from either Grindelwald railway station, Kaufmann Sport in Grindelwald centre or Ski service Egger at Grindelwald Grund, then take the bus from the train station to Bussalp at 1800 m. Food and Drink – Bergrestaurant (mountain restaurant) Bussalp.
Getting There
GrindelwaldBus line 126 from Grindelwald train station to Bussalp. Toboggan run stops in Weidli, above Grindelwald village. Buses regularly leave from Weidli back up to Bussalp.
Cantons Lucerne and Schwyz
7. Winter Hiking and snowshoe trails
Winter Hiking on the sunny Ibereregg Pass, high above Schwyz township.
Ibergeregg Pass looking towards Lake Lucerne, Photo by A.Leggett
Tucked in between Lakes Lucerne and Lake Zürich is the wonderful Mythen region of foothills and mountains. IbergereggPass is part of the mountainous area connecting the Einsiedeln region (close to Zürich) and the Rotenflue mountain, above the town of Schwyz (close to Lake Lucerne).
This is a great place to get above the clouds and walk out in the open and through fir trees to Berggasthäuser (mountain restaurants) and Beizlis (small eateries). There are often views of the lakes or, like in this photo, a blanket of clouds.
Mythen Region
The Mythen region is an alpine region that encompasses the Ibergeregg Pass, the dramatic GrosseMythen mountain (1,898 m) and the Rotenflue mountain (1,571 m). This is where you will find a wide, undulating landscape with dramatic mountains, meadows, moorlands and woods – a paradise for walking, winter sports and trying out the local produce.
Hiking and snowshoe trails – Ibergeregg Pass
Ibergeregg Pass is a good place to try out some winter walks and snowshoe trails as there is a good network of national routes and local routes starting here. Also, there are many mountain restaurants and inns in this region and the routes pass right past a few of them. They often have outdoor terraces and are well-signposted.
Information
Travelling to Rotenflue from Lake Lucerne: Train/Bus to Rychenbach (a suburb of the Schwyz township); then Rotenflue cable car – 1 hour 25 minutes including changes.
Travelling to Ibergeregg Pass from Zürich: Train to Schwyz, change at Arth Goldau; then bus to Ibergeregg Pass (505) – 1 hour 40 mins including changes.
Region of Einsiedeln/Oberiberg: These are starting points for the Hoch Ybrig ski resort, then bus 505 leaves from Oberiberg – 12 minutes.
Rigi mountain range – gentle slopes overlooking Lake Lucerneon one side and Lake Zug on the other
A natural border between the lower, flatter Swiss Mittelland that runs in a northwesterly direction and the summits of the Swiss Alps, Rigi is considered one of the most classic panorama mountains in Switzerland. Rigi summit, topped by Rigi Kulm, rises between Lake Zug (Zugersee) and Lake Lucerne (Vierwaldstättersee).
Winter WalkingTrails
There are several winter walks and snowshoe trails spread along Rigi’s peaks and slopes and they are all well connected by a network of public transport.
Winter Walking –Rigi Panorama Path
Rigi Kaltbad, on the Lake Lucerne facing slope, has a small station for the historical mountain railway and is home to the Mineralbad & Spa– sublime thermal baths with a view.
A gentle walk from the main summit, Rigi Kaltbad to Rigi Scheidegg offers plenty of superb lookout points in all directions.
Hike Distance: approx.7.9 km
Level: Medium
Finish: Rigi Scheidegg
Duration: 2 hrs
Type of Walk: Point-to-Point
AscentDescent: 250/136 m
Start: Rigi Kaltbad
This winter route is called the Panoramaweg (Panorama Walk). It doesn’t have any steep sections – just a long gentle ascent from 1,424 m to 1,641 m over 8 km. It can be walked in both directions, in sections or used for walking to one of the mountain restaurants’ panorama terraces.
Information
This walk starts and finishes with different means of ascent/descent as follows:
Rigi Kaltbad:
Lake Lucerne/Vitznau: mountain rail
Lake Lucerne/Weggis: cable car
Lake Zug side/Arth Goldau: mountain rail
Rigi Scheidegg:
From Rigi Scheidegg to Kräbel: mountain rail – linking with mountain railway to Arth Goldau, (Lake Zug side).
From Rigi Scheidegg to Kräbel: mountain railway to Rigi Kulm (peak) then to Vitznau by mountain train or Weggis by cable car (Lake Lucerne).
Websites:sbb.chfor boat/train/mountain rail links and Rigi for cable car information and further winter walks, snowshoe trails, toboggan runs etc.
Understanding Winter Signposts
Sledding Guidelines
Links
Winter trails are clearly visible in a snowy environment
Pink signposts and arrows are used for winter walking, hiking or snowshoe trails and the turquoise signs represent cross-country skiing.
Snow Shoe Trails
Snowshoe trails are pink with a snowshoe symbol. If the trail is a national route, then it indicates the name and number of the route with a dark pink background.
WinterHiking Routes
The national routes are marked with the relevant number on a light pink background
Winter trails sometimes have a symbol that indicates what kind of walk it is – light walk or hike. In this case, it is an 8 km hike that ascends 340 m.
Good to know: Pink poles line both sides of the trails and it is important to stay within these poles as ski pistes often zig-zag beside, through and past the winter hiking routes.
Local Routes
Many local councils have created winter trails – sometimes groomed, sometimes not but definitely a unique way of seeing the villages from a different perspective (this one is above Bergün in the Albula Pass).
These are normally pink with a white snowflake.
Cross-Country Skiing Signs
Cross-country skiing signposts and route indicators are turquoise. However, this road sign is pretty clear – you are about to cross a cross-country skiing track.
Restaurant and Guesthouse Signs
Beizli – small eatery serving local products,
Bergrestaurant – mountain restaurant
Bergasthaus – mountain guest house and restaurant
Alpwirtschaft – a small family-owned restaurant often part of a farm or cheese dairy (may not be open in summer).
Alpstubli – Look and feel of a traditional mountain restaurant – often large and associated with a ski area.
My Favourite Sign – made by my kids.
Sledding Guidelines
Small toboggan run in Oberiberg, canton Schwyz. Photo A.Leggett
What to wear –
Always wear good winter boots with a solid sole and plenty of tread. Your boots are used for braking and steering.
Ski helmet.
Waterproof gloves, ski pants and ski jacket
Scarf ( tucked in of course)
Small backpack
Goggles or good sunglasses
How to use the wooden Davos sleds –
Leg position – Legs should be bent and facing forward. Hold onto the reins and lean back. On straight and flat sections of the run, the feet can rest on the runners.
Steering – Steer with both your boots and body – When steering to the left, simply put your left foot out into the snow and the same with a right turn, right foot. Also, lean your body in the direction you are turning (into the corner).
Braking –
When the terrain flattens out put both feet flat on the snow to slow down or stop.
When on the slope, dig your heels into the snow to slow down and brake.
If you need to brake on steep terrain, pull up the front of the sled with the reins. The more you pull, the more you will brake.
When the run becomes steep it is better to sit in the rear of the sled.
Rules of sledging
Show consideration for others
Adapt speed and driving style to ability
Respect the lane of the vehicle in front
Overtake with distance
Look up before entering and approaching the road
Stop at the edge
Get on and off at the edge
Observe signs and markings
German words for communicating when sledding
Sledding/sled – schlitten fahren/ der Schlitten
Sled rental – Schlitten mieten.
Watch out! – Achtung! or aufpassen!
I am passing! – Ich gehe durch! or Achtung!
Further Links
Swiss Mobility has a listing of around 100 toboggan runs with filter options for level of difficulty. Go to the link here to take a look – Schwiezmobil.
schlitten.ch is a great website, in German and English, which offers advice on different types of sledand how to get around the corners without falling off.
After spending a few hours hiking on an alpine trail that goes through meadows and forests; under overhanging rocks, across streams and through high valleys, it is such a wonderful feeling when the magical Oberblegisee alpine lake appears in front of you mirroring the surrounding mountain peaks.
The only access to the lake is with a gondola ride and then hiking and biking trails – keeping it well hidden.
The Walk
The walk to the lake and then to the Brunnenberg cable car takes approx. 3 hours with stops. The start is mainly flat then it goes up and down a bit before reaching the lake. A grill spot with views, a simple restaurant serving regional products and 2 self-service alpine cheese dairies are found along the route. Good to Know: They only accept cash and sometimes the TWINT app.
Getting to the Trail
The trip up the mountain starts at Linthal in the Glarus valley. This valley branches off just before Lake Walen (Walensee) and is reached by exiting the main motorway from Zürich at Glarus/Näfels (No. 44 off-ramp). The region, which includes the UNESCO World Heritage Sardona Tectonic Arena, is called Glarnerland.
Good to Know: The national public transport system (sbb.ch) offers a combi-deal – a discount when booking the complete trip through them. Get more information here.
Directions are as follows:
At Linthal Braunwaldbahn take the funicular to the car-free village of Braunwald.
Walk approx. 10-minutes to the Hüttenberg – Grotzenbüel gondola
When arriving at the Grotzenbüel ski and hiking area, look for the yellow sign (with white/red/white mountain trail markings) to OberblelgiseeRundweg.
The hiking trail ends at the Luchsingen gondola station that will take back down the valley to the Brunnenberg train station.
For more details on the funicular, gondolas(operating times), hiking trail and what time of year to do it see the Getting There section below.
The Trail
Distance: 8 km (from gondola to gondola)
Takes: approx. 3 hrs with stops.
Ascent: 77 m
Descent: 540 m
After leaving the top station of the Grotzenbüel gondola, the first part of the walk is alongside rolling pastures and forested areas with great views of the mountain range on the other side of the valley.
In the summer the dairy farms are busy making dairy products that can be enjoyed at small restaurants and Käserei (cheese dairies) throughout the whole walk.
Walking in the Glarus Mountains to Oberblegi Lake (Oberblegisee)
A lovely thick forest with wild mushrooms and ferns opens out to a wide valley. From here the trail winds uphill to a pretty little Beizli (small farm restaurant) which has a small but very tasty menu of local ingredients.
Then the wonderful Lake Oberblegisee with plenty of places for a picnic or, if you are brave, a swim.
Getting There
Hüttenberg-Grotzenbüel gondola also runs in winter for winter sports
Take the LinthalValley to Braunwaldfunicular, then walk to Hüttenberg for the gondola to Grotzenbüel to begin the walk (1,559 m).
The trail ends at the Brunnenberg cable car that travels down to the Luchsingen Valley.
In the warmer months, this alpine valley in the Swiss Alps is accessible by bus and on foot. In winter when the valley is covered in snow it is possible to do the legendary 5.5 km sled run from Grosse Scheidegg, down through the valley to Schwarzwaldalp.
The Bernese Oberland offers some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in Europe while quietly keeping the Alpine farming traditions and heritage alive. When walking in the upper valley that runs between Meiringen to Grindelwald, you feel as if you have come to a truly authentic part of Switzerland. This valley offers vistas of mighty peaks, moorlands, mossy forests, tiny hamlets with traditional farms, and country Inns.
The sound of cowbells, the wild Rychenbach river, waterfalls and the sing song warning from the Post Bus as it navigates the tight bends on the valley road all remind you exactly where you are – so typically Swiss.
Where to Start
Summer
From Meiringen – Daily bus services from 18th May 2023 – 22 October 2023
Option 1: Walking the official Via Alpina trail which rises 400m/3 km from Meiringen township to the valley.
Option 2: Take the nostalgic cog railway up this section. This runs alongside the very famous 300-metre-high Reichenbach Falls. Made famous by Arthur Conan Doyle’s short story The Final Problem where Sherlock Holmes and Professor Moriarty fight on the ledge overlooking the falls.
Winter
From Meiringen – The bus timetable can be found at postauto.ch.
Toboggan Run: 5.5 km sled run from Grosse Scheidegg down to Schwarzwaldalp, then bus back to Meiringen.
Distances
Meiringen – Grosse Scheidegg Pass
Length: 15km Ascent: 1400m (from top of cog train 1,100 m)
Grosse Scheidegg Pass – Grindelwald
Length: 8km Descent: 930 m
Ways of seeing the area – from May to October
From mid-May to mid-October the yellow post buses help you getthrough the valley.
Options: 1. Walk 2. Take the bus 3. Walk and take the bus
There are plenty of places on the walk which move away from the road. Even so, there are around 10 bus stops along the route from the top of Reichenbach Fallsin Meiringen to Grosse Scheidegg.
The Grindelwald Bus goes from Grosse Scheidegg down to Grindelwald, taking about 30 mins.
Good to Know:Private cars are not allowed to drive over the Grosse Scheidegg Pass without a permit.
Pit Stops
The lovingly restored 18th-century Rosenlaui Hotel (12th May – 15th October) comes as a big surprise when seeing it for the first time. Up until arriving at this point we only saw traditional buildings. I thought we had perhaps taken the wrong turn and were heading into Grindelwald or Interlaken but no, this lovely and inviting Inn is in the middle of this valley.
Standing at the entrance to the Rosenlaui Gorge, this well-preserved hotel was built after an influx of 18th-century artists and poets fell in love with the region and needed somewhere to stay.
Note: There are no TVs or wifi in the building and there is a photo-free zone in all public areas. I didn’t realise this when taking the photo above…
The track starts in Willingen in Meiringen and climbs approx. 300 metres to the alpine valley alongside the Reichenbach Falls. The other option, the very civilised historical cog railway built in 1899, slowly takes you up the steep slope to the edge of the falls.
We used the cog railway for this walk for two reasons – a better view of the falls and an easy start to the 1,100-metre ascent to Grosse Scheidegg (we were determined to do this section without taking the bus).
Starting the walk
From the pretty village of Zwirgi, the trail goes gradually uphill through a forest beside the road, and for a short time, on the road. The track then leads deeper into the forest and then out to wide meadows with the iconic Wellhorn mountain dominating the skyline.
This grill has the best views you could ask for. I loved the rustic wooden shelter which seemed to have everything needed for a grill – seating, frypans, tongs and even an axe! We were tempted to stop but knew the Rosenlaui Hotel was close. We really felt like a cold drink, so after taking a few photos we moved on.
The Rosenlaui Hotel is gorgeous – lovely staff and an amazing setting. After a quick look at the little waterfall on the grounds of the Hotel (the waiter kindly let us know it was there), we made our way past the Rosenlaui Glacier Gorgeentrance – (a possible side trip), through a very mossy forest to the little hamlet of chalets at Schwarzwaldalp.
The final stage of this walk passes through wild woodlands with jaw-dropping views of the Wellhorn mountains and the Wetterhorn.
At this point of the walk, the trail becomes very steep but luckily there are plenty of benches for resting and refueling.
We celebrated our achievement with a drink at the Berghotel Grosse Scheidegg, then caught the bus to Grindelwald. This 30-minute bus ride can be seriously panoramic – depending on the weather.
There are plenty of other walks from Grosse Scheidegg. A couple of options:
Continue down the valley to complete stage 10 of the Via Alpina trail.
Across to First with views of majestic mountains Eiger, Schreckhorn and Wetterhorn. (First also offers one of Grindelwald’s top five adventures – flying across a sun terrace while strapped into a harness).
Links to Swiss Mobility Map
Swiss Mobility has a well-detailed map with a height profile and tips on saving altitude. A link to the complete Stage 10 of the Via Alpina trail (Meiringen – Grindelwald) can be found here. It is possible to continue onwards by following the Via Alpina – offical walking route number 1. This Route crosses 14 Alpine passes, with a distance of 390 km and has 20 stages.
Exploring the Swiss region of Engelberg is a perfect way to lift your spirits while witnessing the living traditions found throughout the rugged mountainous region. A walking trail through the Engelberger Aa River Valley passes through farming meadows, past waterfalls and cheese dairies and, in the warmer months, cows munching on wildflowers.
As soon as you reach the top of the Fürenalp gondola, deep in the Engelberg valley, the views are instantly staggering with a wall of rugged mountains, a deep valley and pretty meadows all around. Switzerland’s signature bright yellow hiking signposts point to the dirt trails that wind around corners and up hills hinting at the possibilities of more spectacular panoramas.
My family and I travelled on the Fürenalp gondola in late summer when slate grey clouds were threatening us from a distance. We knew it was just a matter of time before they rolled in, bringing heavy rain and stormy weather. We had just enough time to get up the small gondola and have a quick look around. For me this was a good opportunity to show my two teenagers that this would be an exciting place to explore and hike around in the coming days of our holiday – it worked. They both made me promise we would come back for a proper hike the next day.
Stäuber Waterfall Panoramic Hike
A lovely downhill hiking trail is the Stäuber panorama hike(9.2 km, 3 hours, medium difficulty). It starts at the top of the Fürenalp gondola (1,850 m) and gradually winds down through rocky meadows and pastures that, during the warmer months, are home to wildflowers and cattle. At the Stäuber waterfall, the trail turns back towards Engelberg it then runs along theriver valley,back to the Fürenalp car park with an alternative shorter version using the smaller Äbnet gondola.
All in one – wildflowers, cows, waterfalls and mountains. Photo by A.Leggett
Good to Know: The high-altitude grazing and wildflower diet give the cow’s milk and the cheese a special flavour – so it is worth trying out a cheese platter at one of the mountain dairies or restaurants.
Making our way down to the valley from Fürenalp. Photo by A.Leggett
The path eventually reaches a small cluster of buildings that are made up of the Surenen Kaserei (cheese dairy) and Usser Äbnet cable car– a possible shortcut option.
Äbnet Bahn, Alpkäse trail.Image from Engelberg Tourism
This shortcut would mean missing out on the lovely Stäuber waterfall that is tucked into the landscape at the turning point of this walk. From here there are also further walks to the wild Surenen Pass.
Looking towards the Surenen Pass with the pretty Stäuber waterfall below. Photo by A.Leggett
The waterfall is the point where the trail heads back toward Engelberg and Fürenalp cable car valley station. After zig-zagging down to the valley and passing over trickling springs, the trail runs alongside the wide, shallow Engelberger Aa River.
Hay-making involves special gondolas that help transport large bundles of hay down the steep terrain. Some of these “Burdi” (bale of hay in Swiss German) weigh around 60 kg so the farmers need all the help they can get with this back-breaking job.
Shaded spots can be found alongside the river.Photo by A.Leggett
We found this picnic spot by the river – massive boulders and trees provided lounging areas and shade.
From here the path passes some places offering food and drink (see below) and then crosses fields before reaching the cable car station’s carpark and bus stop – beware of the paragliders landing. I remember running through the fields to get out of their way (probably not a good idea) before finishing the walk – a last burst of energy. Am sure we didn’t need to worry, they seemed to have their landings all under control.
It is obviously important to respect the natural environment and farming areas by sticking to the trails. The farmers that graze their stock around the meadows in this area work hard to ensure the natural environment is protected, therefore, any visitors to the area need to do the same thing.
Food stops and other activities in the area
Alp Käserei and Beizli – (alpine cheese dairies and small restaurants)
The alpine cheese dairies (Alpkäserei) can be found dotted throughout the mountains in this region (open from mid-May to October) with the dairy products coming straight from the cows seen in the surrounding meadows. Two found on this hike areSurenenAlpkäserei which is part of the Äbnet gondola´s top station and Alpkäserei & Berggasthaus Stäfelitucked away in the valley.
Bouldering at Äbnet:Image from Engelberg-Titlis Tourism
For the more adventurous there are Klettergärten (rock climbing areas), a rope park (Seilpark) and, for experienced climbers, the Via Ferrata climb which offers a much more challenging way of reaching the Fürenalp mountain restaurant.
The Engelberger Valley is farmed in a way that is in harmony with the landscape. Because of the steep alpine pastures, it is only possible to do the cutting, raking, and bundling of hay manually – a system of farming that also contributes to the land’s biodiversity and protection.
Often the slopes on the Stanserhorn, Haldigrat and around Engelberg are even too steep for grazing – not sure how they discovered that – a cow avalanche maybe?
The Buiräbähnli gondolas are heavily relied on by farmers around the Engelberg valley. Photo by A.Leggett
The tradition of manually cutting, with hand sharpened scythes, and transporting the hay for the coming winter is known as “wild haymaking”. For hundreds of years, strong farmers have risked life and limb to work on the steep slopes high up from the valley floor and small open gondolas that look like awkwardly formed trailers have been relied on for shifting the hay, milk containers and sometimes people. These rustic lifts are called “Buiräbähnli” – a word that is almost impossible to pronounce by anyone that is not Swiss. If you look hard enough you will find them all over – their lines stretching up hills, mountains and across wide rivers beds. Nowadays it is possible to have a ride in some of the enclosed Buiräbähnliif you have a good head for heights.
Zürich Main Station:– Train to Engelberg (change at Lucerne) and shuttle bus from Engelberg to Fürenalp, 2 hours 15 mins. Check bus timetable on fürenalp.ch website as limited service in autumnand no service during the winter months.
LucerneMain Station:– Train to Engelberg and shuttle bus from Engelberg to Fürenalp, 1 hour 15 mins. Check bus timetable on fürenalp.ch website as limited service in Autumnand no service during the winter months.
By Car to Fürenalp gondola carpark:
Zürich centre:– 90km via A4, around 1 hour 20 mins depending on traffic
You often hear about traditional craftmanship and old manual skills dying out or being replaced by modern practices. Luckily Switzerland hasn’t fully adopted a modern way of life. In fact, many of the small villages, towns and farms in Switzerland not only continue to use the old traditions, but you will find the local communities working hard to promote these traditions and skills through things like workshops, museums and tourism to ensure the knowledge is kept well and truly alive.
From Appenzell in the west to Ticino and Valais in the south, here are some places worth visiting for an authentic Swiss experience.
Appenzellerland – Local crafts and farming traditions
This whole region oozes tradition and sustainability with local produce, local crafts and traditional practices.
. Photo by Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
A special tradition that is part of the lives of the people here is the annual processions of cattle, that move between the villages and the local pastures.
Each person, cow, goat and bell has its part to play. The white goats, guided by children, lead the way. Next in line are the cows, their huge bells and the herdsmen. Finally, the horse and cart carrying supplies are found at the end. There is music, bell chimes, colour and tradition all woven into each procession.
See my Appenzell page for more details and below for the Urnäsch village traditional farmers market that coincides with the processions.
Villages and their traditions
Photo by Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
Many villages spread around the rolling hills of canton Appenzell are highly self-reliant, with the local farmers, craftspeople and artisans preserving and using the old techniques and traditional way of life. This makes farming a tough, very physical job on the steep hilly farms, however, the communities don’t just work hard together, they also celebrate hard together.
Silvesterchlausen is a special New Years Celebration that goes back centuries. It takes place on the 13th of January each year throughout the region and starts early in the morning, going through until midnight. Locals dress up as characters called ‘Silvesterchläuse Mummers’. The Urnäsch Mummers wear extremely ornate headgear (shown above). According to the Appenzell Tourism Website, these are made by hand over “hundreds of hours”.
Workshops are popular with the locals. In Urnäsch it is possible to:
Make Lanterns from sheets of iron by welding and flame cutting
Hand-craft the wooden facades of houses from local trees – hand tools are used for the complete process.
Urnäsch Village Barbara Steinemann, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Around mid-September each year, the farmers’ market, centrally located at Kronenplatz in Urnäsch offers more than 50 stalls full of local produce from farming families.
There are food stalls, entertainment, and pig races and traditional music played during the day.
In the morning, the alpine descents arrive in the village of Urnäsch, with the herdsmen moving through the village between about 9 a.m. and 1 p.m.
A shuttle bus runs from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. to the outdoor parking spaces on Appenzellerstrasse and at the Furt work station.
The Cheese Dairy inStein
The local cheese
Traditional craftsmanship and practices are used in many of the small cheese dairies in Appenzell.
Cheese-making can be experienced at the small and modern Appenzell Schaukäserei (show cheese dairy) – found deep in the green rolling hills of Appenzell Ausserrhoden, in a small village called Stein – A link to their new website is here. The village of Stein is known as the pearl of Appenzellerland with houses mostly from the 18th century in the centre.
This is a small exhibition, redesigned to showcase the traditions and processes used for making the different types of cheese from this area.
They offer:
Self-guided tours with animated film
cheese tasting & shop
A look at the living traditions and customes in Appenzell Ausserrhoden
A terrace to watch part of the cheese-making process
Restaurant
Next door: Appenzeller Folklore Museum to experience the herdsmen’s culture
Farmers from the region bring fresh and warm milk to one of the 50 authorized cheese dairies. Around 700 years of artisan traditions go into the making of Appenzeller® cheese.
It is possible to walk through the countryside from the cheese dairy. There is a signpost by the carpark and from there it is possible to wander around the hills and small farms (sometimes directly past the front door).
There are plenty of yellow benches found along the paths and roads. The views include:
the Alpstein mountains
Lake Constance
villages ( Stein is in this photo)
forests
traditional farmhouses
and, of course, cheese dairies
Getting to Urnäsch and Stein
To Schaukäserei in Stein:
Public Transport: Train/Bus: From St. Gallen – 18/20 minutes. Car:From Appenzell – 15 minutes; From St. Gallen – 15 mins.
To Urnäsch:
Public Transport: : Train: From St. Gallen, changing at Herisau – 30-40 mins, half-hourly;From Appenzell – 16 mins. Car: From Appenzell – 15 mins; From St. Gallen – approx. 30 mins.
Further Information
Appenzell Schaukäserei (cheese dairy):
Open 364 days from 9am – 5pm. Cheese-making daily until 3pm.
The story of the Zinal and Ayer hamlets in Val d’Anniviers
The area around the small village of Zinal (1670 m) was once occupied by small hamlets that were known as village-mayen – meaning they were only occupied seasonally. As far back as the 16th century, the locals would move from the mountains to the Rhône valley several times a year travelling either on foot or with carts pulled by mules. These people must have been pretty tough and rugged individuals!
In early spring they would go to Sierre to do work in the vineyards and gardens, going back in autumn to harvest the grapes.
In summer they would travel back up to the hamlets to tend to the livestock, bringing them up to the high altitude pastures and preparing hay then in Winter they would make their way back down with the livestock to Ayer to Zinal, feeding the animals the hay, cut in summer.
My guess is – at this stage, they would then hide away in the quiet valley and wrap up warm until spring. If they had snow like this who could blame them…
This lifestyle changed with the coming of tourists in the 19th Century, attracted by the natural environment and the staggering peaks of the Imperial Crown (five peaks over 4,000 m). At this time a couple of large hotels were built to accommodate the growing numbers of tourists.
These days it is possible to hike up to the original pastures and visit the traditional farm buildings that have been preserved to showcase the historical stories of this area.
Within the villages, many of the original farmhouses, community buildings and granaries have also been lovingly restored and are being re-used by the community and for tourism.
Héren cattle were part of the traditional way of life for the village-mayen people. They have certain characteristics that link them back to the wild auroch cattle that used to roam free throughout the European forests and grasslands. Their name originates from the Val d’Hérens region, west of Val d’Anniviers but they are also called fighting cows due to the fact that they designate the herd leader by fighting and locking horns. This habit has now become a spectator sport in the mountains (it is rare for the cows to become injured). More information can be found here.
The Désalpe practice of bringing the livestock up to the alpine pastures in summer and down in winter is also a celebration (as with Appenzell), by processions through the towns which include bringing down the cheese. The cows and sheep are lovingly decorated with flowers. Spectators line the streets and market stalls sell local produce.
Raclette Cheese
I encountered this ‘smelly cheese’ when we first moved to Switzerland in December 2004, or should I say, my nose first encountered it … If you have been to a Swiss Christmas market you should know what I mean.
This strong smell is from the traditional Raclette dish. The Christmas or winter markets always have a few Raclette stalls with special contraptions that melts the top layer of large chunks of cheese. This melted part is scraped off then spread over small potatoes. Some spices are sprinkled on and some mini pickles added and then the cardboard plate is handed out to the eager punters – often along with a glass of Gluhwein (mulled wine).
At first, I would give these stalls a wide berth but after tasting this cheese and getting used to the smell, I would also be one of the eager punters balancing my cheesy potato on a cardboard plate, trying to find a place to stand before burning my hand on my Gluhwein.
Raclette originates from the Valais (Wallis) region and is said to be over 400 years old. In 1812, there was mention of it as a tradition in the Val D’Anniviers region (home to Zinal. Ayer and Grimentz villages) – where sumptuous feasts would begin and close with roasted cheese (“fromage rôti”). This information is fromttmsa.ch which has a section dedicated to Raclette
Local Products found in Valais
There are plenty of ways to enjoy the local food and wine from the region. You can:
Make your own in a bread-making barn in Grimentz or
Visit the wine cellars – for a wine tasting experience – some are open for visits all year round (Good for a break from skiing).
Try a Fondue picnic. The Rando Fondue kit can be picked up from the villages of Chandolin, St-Luc, Zinal, Ayer or Grimentz.finding-the-charming-village-of-grimentz-and-the-val-danniviers-formidable-mountain-roads
Visiting the area
By Bus: Sierre – Ayers/Zinal, changing at Vissoie, approx. 45/60 mins Car: Sierre – Zinal approx. 40 mins. See sbb.ch for up-to-date info.
While in the region: In canton Valais there are several attractive villages that are car free with amazing sights and surroundings. I have listed them below.
Ticino – Scudellate – the revival of a mountain hamlet – Albergo Diffuso
Muggio Valley
Valle di Muggio – Turro-Copyright Ticino Turismo – Foto Nicola Demaldi
The traditional manufacturing processes and culinary history of the local food are important to the small towns found in this very remote valley of Ticino.
It is easy to visit this valley without your car. With the opening of the Gotthard Base Tunnel in December 2020, it is now a lot quicker to travel from northern Switzerland to the Muggio Valley by train and bus.
It takes around 3 hours 30 mins from Zürich main station by train & bus, to arrive in the small village of Scudellate at the far end of the valley. Admittedly you will need to make 4 changes to do this… To get to the towns of Muggio & Cabbio – considered two of the most attractive villages in Switzerland – it is 3 hours and 3 changes.
The Muggio Valley offers:
The 700 year old Bruzella mill (between Bruzella and Cabbio) is still in operation. This mill has an old craft workshop, produces polenta and uses rare red maize native to Ticino.
The village of Muggio has buildings made of local stone and Cabbio has lovely historical fountains.
Muggio has views of the terraced slopes across the valley.
At the end of Muggio valley lies the small village of Scudellate – with only 20 inhabitants.
A special project to preserve this village has been made possible because of the vision and work of a local man called Oscar Piffaretti.
The project opens up the well-preserved and remote villageof Scudellate, allowing tourists to experience the living traditions and local produce. The project is called Albergo Diffuso which translates as a scattered hotel and has been funded by, amongst other organisations, Swiss Mountain Aid. Additionally, there is another village in Ticino that has been transformed into an Albergo Diffuso, called Corippo in the Verzasca Valley.
The Scudellate village will offer:
Refurbished buildings including: – The pretty Osteria Manciana which is a mini-hotel with dining rooms, the old schoolhouse has also been converted to accommodation and the ForesteriaB&B with one other building being added on the Alpe Caviano.
A shop will be added to the Osteria selling local produce
Events will be offered such as cooking courses, wine tasting, and cultural excursions.
The refurbishments and building is being done in stages (21/22/23). For more information gohere.
Getting There
Public Transport from Zürich:
EC train: (Eurocity) Zürich – Lugano; S-Train Lugano – Mendrisio; Postbus Mendrisio – Morbio; Postbus Morbio – Cabbio. This connection takes 3 hours. Note: There are also other connections – see sbb.ch.
Public Transport from Locarno:
Locarno – Mendrisio 45-55 mins then postbus as above.
Driving from Zürich:
From central Zürich – Scudellate approx. 3 hrs 30 mins, via Gotthard Tunnel (can be much longer as the Gotthard Tunnel is notorious for traffic jams).
Nearly every place in Switzerland boasts stunning views, so I may have missed a few 100 ideas from my list. However, these are some of my personal favourites so far. They are idyllic spots with plenty of room for exploring. These places are peaceful and away from the crowds of tourists. Hoher Kasten however, is best visited during the week as it’s a popular spot for the Swiss.
I will continue to explore with my family and post a Part 2 some time soon…
1)Hoher Kasten, Appenzell
These views are from the Hoher Kasten cable car and viewing platforms at the top. Hiking trails lead down to nearby lakes, forests and valleys.
How to get there:
Train/Bus: Appenzell, to Brülisau-Hoher Kasten: Train to Weissbad, then bus to cable car station at Brülisau – 16 mins.
By Car: Appenzell to Hoher Kasten lower station: 10 mins – 6 km
What to do here: Visit the revolving restaurant, hike back down or doa themed trail. Or simply enjoy the views from the viewing terraces and platforms.
2)Ftan; looking across the valley to Tarasp castle, Graubünden
The little village of Ftan is across the deep lower Engadin Valley. This village and its surrounding countryside offers unspoilt views of the impressive Tarasp Castle.
How to get there:
By Train:from Scuol, the largest town in the Lower Engadine valley, it takes 22 mins; from Landquart, 2 hrs 5 mins, with a change in Scuol.
By Car: From Landquart: Route 28, takes approx. 1 hr 30 – 71 km.
What to do around here: You can register for a guided tour of Tarasp Castle on their website. as well as plenty of hiking & biking, scenic trains trips, thermal baths at Scuol and skiing in winter.
Seelisberg is a small town sitting on a shelf above lake Lucerne. It is reachable by a combination of boat and funicular or from Lucerne, by road.
There is a natural mountain lake called Lake Seeli which offers swimming possibilities and camping (no vehicles of any kind are allowed on the campsite).It is when you walk away from this town and lake that you will reach the stunning viewpoints shown in this picture. There are also benches, loungers and grill spots if you feel like sticking around for a bit.
I did a circular hike from the Seelisee bus stop (Seeli) to the lake and beyond, then through the town, upwards to the other side of the main road until reaching a sheer cliff… from here I walked alongside the cliff, then turned back down to the bus stop, (almost missing the hourly bus). For more details of this walk, go to my Uri & Lake Lucerne page.
How to get there:
By boat to Treib, then funicular: seesbb.ch
Train/Bus: Takes approx. 1 hour with change from train to a bus in Stans.
By Car: From Lucerne, take the A2 for 31 km to Seeli parking (30 mins).
What to do here: swim, have a picnic or grill, hike, and camp (in the official camping site by the lake).
The photos are from the tiny town of Gandria on the side of Lake Lugano. The view is of the eastern arm of the lake, looking over the border into Italy. With the palm trees and bright blue sky, you could already imagine being in Italy.
How to get there:
By boat: From Lugano, takes 25-45 mins (for boat trips see my Canton Ticino site).
By Car: From Lugano: 15 mins, 5 km
What to do here: See my page on Canton Ticino for more on Gandria
There are lovely viewpoints at many places along the Rhein – from Germany to the source, Lai de Tuma, in canton Graubünden– considered the starting point. I have walked alongside and floated on the Rhein many times but this section, where the little medieval town of Eglisau sits on the banks, is one of my favourites. The bridge into Eglisau is a great viewpoint for seeing the lush green hills on either side. The town itself has well preserved historic buildings and a park area along the Rhein. From here there are trails through the forests giving more stunning views of the river on one side and, now and then, vineyards on the other. But best of all – it is off the normal tourist route.
How to get there:
By Train: From Winterthur: Takes 33 mins with 1 change. See sbb.ch.
By Car: From Winterthur: Takes 28 mins, 21 km
What to do here:
Walks up in the hills or down by the river.
Grilling by the river (only in allocated spots as this is a protected area)
Swimming in the Rhein at Eglisau or,
Boat trips on the Rhein
6) Wissifluh Cable car & Panorama Bench, Vitznau
From Wissifluh Gondola looking down on Vitznau campsite
Panorama Bench
From the lakeside town of Vitznau, canton Lucerne, it is possible to walk or drive to 2 gondolas. The bottom stations are next to each other, each with car parking.
The Wissifluhgondola is self-service. Basically, you will need to order a gondola and a maximum of 4 people can fit inside.
There are clear instructions in German and English explaining, in steps, what to do to “call” the gondola down and how to get moving once you are inside… It can be a bit disconcerting but, once you start seeing the views and have alighted at the top (after the top station’s little door slides open) you will soon stop shaking. It is a peaceful area with farms and meadows, and of course, the famous Panorama Bench to distract you from thinking about your trip back down.
How to get there: Train or boat from Lucerne: See sbb.ch for the timetable options. Each option takes about 1 hour. Driving: From Lucerne city centre: 35-45 mins – 26 km.
What to do here: Important points: 1. You pay on arrival at the top station. 2. Often these farm restaurants only take cash.
7) Seealpsee, AppenzellInnerrhoden
Seealpsee with the peak of Säntis in the middle distance
There is only one way to reach this lake – hike. The walking trail from Wasserauen to here is a great opportunity to experience the dramatic natural environment of the Alpstein Massif. See my Appenzell page for more information about the hike to Seealpsee and other options around this region.
Getting There:
By Train: Appenzell town to Wasserauen – regular departure. Travel Time: 13 mins.
By Car: Appenzell to Wasserauen – 11 mins drive – 7 km. Zürich to Wasserauen – 1.15 hrs – 100 km
What to do here:
Hiking, cable car rides,visiting the Mountain Inns on the lake and further above and for the experienced hiker/climber attempt to hike up Säntis.
In Appenzell – A place that reminds me of New Zealand
I would like to introduce myself and let you know why I am doing this blog. My husband and I originally come from New Zealand. Although we have lived in Zürich canton, Switzerland for over 10 years, along with our two Swiss-born children and two rabbits.
I grew up on a sheep farm in the middle of nowhere. In fact, if you can imagine the middle of nowhere – I was in the middle of that.
So moving here was a bit of a shock – I am now in the middle of everything. Luckily one of my favourite pastimes is exploring and Europe has always fascinated me.
There are definite similarities between Switzerland and New Zealand, mostly geographical. They both have stunning, dramatic scenery and remote, quiet corners (although I think New Zealand tips the scales on that last one).
However, Switzerland has a completely different feel about it. There are the historical villages where you feel as if you have stepped back in time, the alpine lakes that are warm enough to swim in. There are traditions and practices that go back hundreds of years, like the Fasnacht carnival with music, confetti, and fancy dress, or the Alpzeit processions to move the livestock up and down the mountains. The list goes on…
In canton Uri with the family
I just love this place and want to share my discoveries with others, especially people that prefer getting away from the crowds to find the quieter, more remote spots. I will continue to explore (lucky me) and write. I hope I can do Switzerland’s off-the-beaten-track justice.
