This blog shows places that are often a side note or not found in most guide books. Let me show you my favourite spots - places that are just a bit off the beaten track in this beautiful country.
Ski trails and Glarus mountains of the Pizol in the eastern Heidiland Region – – View from chairlift
February in Switzerland is traditionally a time when skiers flock to the numerous ski resorts that cover the Swiss Alps. There are all kinds of winter sports locations – from the large multi-region resorts to the smaller locally run pistes and finally, to the blink and you would miss alpine villages that transform hillside meadows and mountain slopes into ski runs (my favourite). There are so many options all over the country. Unfortunately, the alpine regions normally covered in thick snow at this time of year are experiencing more and more instances where they struggle to keep the snow on the pistes, mountain trails and sledge runs.
Planning a Snowy Getaway
These warmer winters have made it more problematic to plan a ski-based getaway in the Alps. However, as an added safeguard to ensure visitors continue to come, the ski resorts are adding more autumn and spring-like activities to keep attracting winter sports enthusiasts. These alternatives to skiing have become a necessity for local businesses to keep operating through the winter months.
When trying to organise a dream ski holiday, these are the issues that can arise:
You booked your holiday months ago, have all the equipment organised and have committed to staying in a particular holiday home or hotel. The issue: The snow is melting fast and your accommodation is now surrounded by flattened grass and mud…
You have no idea what to expect and what to commit to before starting your holiday. The issue: Do you book ski lessons or tickets early or do you wait and hope the prices don’t rise?
Solutions
1. Keep Informed
Information Board at Ibergeregg near Schwyz, Central Switzerland
Download the Swiss Tourism Swiss Snow App – this clarifies everything you need to know about conditions in pretty much any ski area in Switzerland. Some of the details include: the depth of the snow – in both the mountains and the valleys, what lifts are open and webcams for a proper inspection. This App also has maps and advice on the type of snow, prices for tickets, offers, tobogganing runs, snow parks, and winter hiking trails through forests where the snow tends to stick around. Also, most importantly for this post, other types of activities.
Bergflex.ch is an amazing source of information about ski resorts all over the country. Information includes snow depth, number of lifts, prices, altitude, km of pistes, and links to accommodation… all on one page! Worth viewing for up-to-date information.
You can always go further upwards or outwards. The Swiss Alps are surprisingly compact and the public transport is legendary. It’s easy to get from valley or mountain accommodation to other resorts or higher altitudes by public transport.
Example 1: Try The Graubünden Pass, a rail pass which covers over 7,106 square kilometres of the canton and 150 valleys. This pass includes half-price travel on certain mountain rail journeys. It also covers travel on the Post bus routes, the little red Rhätischen Rail line and some cable cars. This region is full of high-altitude ski resorts, small pistes, ice-skating, sled runs, alternative winter activities and lovely small villages. The wild Bernina mountains are particularly good for guaranteed winter snow and a chance to view the Diavolezza Glacier which can be viewed from the top of a cable car at around 3,000 metres above sea level. It is possible to ski around here from the middle of October to the start of May.
Example 2: Snow ‘n’ Rail by Switzerland Rail Network – sbb.ch. By booking through the public transport website it is possible to book a combination of public transport and 1 day or multi-day ski passes for over 25 ski regions. These passes are discounted and can include the return journey and the relevant transport options for getting up the mountain. Discounts can be as much as 30%, depending on the time of year.
Plenty of resources are always available to see what to do and where to do it. The local tourism authorities have stepped up over the last few years. You can always find informative brochures, booklets or online advice on winter activities. There are loads of options wherever you are.
… and, of course, for those lesser-known spots… try my blog 🙂
The truth about how mountains are made is unveiled in the amazing Pizol alpine region. Found in the UNESCO World Heritage Sardona Tectonic Arena, this region is full of panoramic wonders – you just need to know where to look.
The Pizol High Plateau is like a viewing platform of geological events going back millennia. You can see mountain chains once part of the African plate, the Rhine Valley, once a huge glacier, snaking off into the distance and mountain peaks, once hundreds of metres below the ocean in deep-sea trenches, now over 2,500 metres above sea level covered in snow. But the region is mostly famous for the discovery that geologists and scientists made here – how mountains are formed. The collision of plates can be seen in the clearly defined layers of rock over 300 million years old, now known as the “Glarus thrust”.
Why would anyone want to miss a show like that?
How to view mighty mountains and the Rhine Valley –Pizol’s Panorama Trail
Sign meanings: Yellow indicates Ski Tours 34 & 35 down to Gaffia middle chairlift station, Brown/red is the red ski slope to Gaffia and Green indicates the paragliding site – available in both summer and winter. Pink is for winter trail 172 – Panorama circular trail – more detail below.
Doing the Panorama Trail
Length: 3.6 km | Duration: 1 hour 10 mins | Height Difference: 30 m | Start: Either Wangs or Bad Ragaz gondola stations
Location
When travelling by car, the Pizol Region is reached via the main A3 motorway in a southeast direction from Zürich. Around 30 minutes after travelling across the southern tip of Lake Zürich the motorway runs through the Rhine Valley where dramatic views of the Alps rise up in front of you – of course, this depends on the weather. The Glarus Valley to the west, is notorious for fog but once this clears the mighty peaks are visible all around. Once travelling through tunnels and alongside Walensee (Lake Walen), the Rhine Valley widens and this is when signposts for Wangs and Bad Ragaz come into view. From here it is easy to exit the motorway and find a park at the valley stations of both gondolas.
When taking public transport the views from the train start in the valley and include the wonderful Walensee. From Wangs or Bad Ragaz buses connect the train station to the gondolas.
The Trail
The Pizol high plateau stretches out between the top chairlift stations Laufböden and the Pizolhütte, with the magnificent Panorama Höhenweg circular hiking trail meandering between these two points. The crowning glory is the summit panorama and the Grand Tour of Switzerland photo spot at the Tagweidlichopf viewpoint. The circular trail is dedicated to the UNESCO World Heritage Tectonic Arena Sardona.
Highlights:
Large info panel at the panoramic viewing platform with astounding insights into the formation of the Alps.
Grand Tour of Switzerland Photo Spot.
360-degree views.
Clear views of the ridging and folding of rock strata known as the Glarus Thrust.
Well-groomed paths in a stunning winter landscape.
Friendly staff
Cosy mountain restaurants with indoor and outdoor seating.
Panorama Benches
My Experience
I was lucky enough to have an invitation from the lovely staff at Pizol Tourism and Marketing after asking for information about winter walking in the area.
I planned to explore the area with a friend. The idea was that we would get familiar with the area by taking the gondola and chair lifts to the top, have a coffee at the Pizolhütte Restaurant, do the trail, take plenty of photos and learn more about the Tectonic Arena, then finish for another drink before going down to the valley.
View from chairlift – ski trails and the Glarus mountains hidden under thick snow.
Getting to the Pizol Plateau
Great theory but unfortunately my friend couldn’t make it so I was on my own. It was not a problem except when I arrived I was surrounded by skiers, a gondola trip then 2 chair lift rides to the top. I imagined sharing a chair lift with a seasoned skier – they would gracefully alight at the top station, swishing off into the snowy distance, I, however, would be forced to run along the hard snowy floor of the station, probably slip, ending up under the chairlift with the possibility of my backpack strap hooked around some part of the lift. The staff would be forced to stop the lifts while unhooking me and pulling me to my feet. I would then limp off, spending the rest of my time on the mountain worrying about the trip down.
Attentive Staff
Of course, it didn’t happen like that. The lift staff were very attentive and made sure I was not travelling with skiers, also the exit from the lifts was very straightforward – I just took a step to the side and was on firm ground. There were also plenty of other people doing the winter walks so, most importantly, I was not alone.
So I started the Panorama trail completely relaxed, breathing in the crisp alpine air, bathed in sunlight, buzzing at the thought of walking on the well-groomed paths. It was very early in the day and the snow was pretty hard on the trail. This meant a bit of slipping and sliding to start with, which was viewed by others in the chair lift but at that point, I didn’t care. The wonderful thing about the Pizol plateau is that you feel like you are on top of the world, with views of mountains going on forever into the distance. A few slips and slides didn’t matter. I just waved at my audience and continued to slip and slide down the path.
After the initial challenge, the path softened and was easier to negotiate. I would recommend sturdy winter boots for the walk and I noticed some other hikers have poles, but these are not required.
Near the start of the trail looking towards the Tagweidlichopf viewpoint.
The Hike
The high plateau at 2222 meters, that the trail crosses, is positioned in front of the Sardona Tectonic Arena like a naturally shaped viewing platform. The views are in all directions – towards the World Heritage Glarus mountains, across the Rhine Valley and as far as Lake Constance in clear weather, then layers of Alps disappearing into the distance.
On the trail, looking towards Pizolhütte Restaurant and chairlift.
Beautiful shapes are made from shadows created by the morning sun. Lake Wangser (Wangsersee) is hidden under snow and ice.
Tagweidlichopf vantage point
The high-altitude trail is lined with information about the view, the origin of the Alps and the UNESCO World Heritage Site. One of the highlights is the Tagweidlichopf vantage point (2275 m above sea level) with a 360-degree panoramic view and a large panoramic viewing guide explaining the geological changes and events that created the landscape.
A Grand Tour of Switzerland photo spot with a view of the Pizol summit and its glacier was installed here in July 2018. The Pizol was chosen as one of the 40 most beautiful photo spots in Switzerland.
How to get thereand a map of walking routes with lifts
A gondola and chairlift complete the journey up to the Pizol Plateau from Bad Ragaz – Laufböden (2,224 m). Another option is with a gondola and 2 chairlifts from the town of Wangs -Pizolhütte station (2,222 m). All lifts connect seamlessly. The map below displays the lifts.
Winter hiking trail – Pizol Panorama Höhenweg (high altitude walk). Can also be done in summer.
To the Valley Station at Wangs or Bad Ragaz
Public Transport
Zürich main station to Bad Ragaz train station: Taking 1 hr 16 mins (depending on connection), then the bus to Bad Ragaz Pizol Bahn (gondola) takes 13 mins. (Check the sbb.ch timetable for exact connection times).
Zürich main station to Sargans train station: Taking 1 hr 10/ 1 hr 30 mins (depending on connection), then the bus to Wangs Pizolbahn (gondola) takes 10 mins. (Check the sbb.ch timetable for exact connection times).
Car
Central Zürich – around 90 km to Wangs gondola car and 95 km to Bad Ragaz gondola car park – taking around 1 hour 40 mins/ 2 hours depending on traffic.
Lucerne – 85 km to the region.
Gondolas and chairlifts
Access to the top (Pizol Plateau)
Bad Ragaz: 8-seater Gondola Bad Ragaz-Pardiel and 4-seater chairliftto Laufböden.
Wangs: 8-seater Gondola Wangs-Furt and 4-seater chairlift Furt-Gaffia then 4-seater chairlift Gaffia-Pizolhütte.
Where and how to enjoy off-the-beaten-track activities in Switzerland‘s magic winter landscape– away from the busy ski pistes.
It’s easy to find sublime winter landscapes in Switzerland but sometimes it can be difficult to find the right activities once you are there. The 7 activities that I chose are great for enjoying the snowy atmosphere, the views and the wonderful natural environment and, of course, for having some serious fun. They are sledding, winter hiking, snowshoeing, ice-skating, snow kite surfing, snow biking and alpine thermal baths.
Learning to Ski in Switzerland’s Magic Winter Landscape as an adult
I am a perpetual beginner when it comes to skiing. Despite living an hour’s drive from a ski field in NZ, the farm took top priority, so skiing simply wasn’t on our radar.
I first learned to ski in Bulgaria on a backpacking trip. It was a bad start – the snow was starting to melt when we arrived… and didn’t stop melting.
My next experience with skiing was when my husband and I took a road trip through Europe many years ago. We had a blast attempting to stay upright on the slopes in Andorra and Austria. Without the budget for ski lessons, it was a bit hit or miss – with a few noteworthy wipeouts that we still laugh about today. Somehow we managed to avoid any broken limbs although our pride was pummeled by children offering to help us up way too often.
Over the years I have slowly improved but I am still happy with the beginners’ slopes. It doesn’t stop me from loving it (unless I venture onto a black slope in error, then it is simply terrifying).
As far as I am concerned, the point of skiing is to get out of the house, shake off the winter cobwebs, and have some fun, however, skiing isn’t the only option. I have come up with a few alternatives which can be just as much fun but maybe less terrifying (in some cases).
1. Sledding and Snowshoe hike in the Albula Valley
The iconic Preda to Bergün tobogganing run with a circular snowshoe walk
Sled run from Preda to Bergün
The Albula Pass tobogganing run
I didn’t try sledging until I was an adult – our farm was in the Canterbury Plains… so pretty flat. It took a lot of courage to do the Preda to Bergün tobogganing run in the Albula Pass. It is only possible to use the daunting wooden Davos sleds, however, my courage was rewarded with a crazy family day out that included idyllic train trips uphill and action-packed, slightly out-of-control trips back down.
Tip: There are different types of wooden Davos sleds depending on your level and confidence. The beginner sleds are easier to control and slower and most have a soft seating area.
The tobogganing run is special for 2 reasons:
Reason 1: The train journey from Bergün twists & turns through the mountains of the Albula Pass and over elegant viaducts to reach the start of the tobogganing rungiving you a taste of the UNESCO World Heritage Albula line.
Reason 2: The 6 km tobogganing run goes directly under the viaducts and, if you time it right, at the same time as the trains speed over them.
Tip: A good time to do this run is between train arrival times in Preda. We hired some snowshoes and did a circular track that goes past the pretty Palpuognasee (Lake Palpuogna), then replaced our snowshoes with sleds at the rental kiosk, managing to get going long before the train full of other sledders arrived.
Snowshoe trail to Lago Palpuogna
Lake Palpuogna – once voted as the most beautiful spot in Switzerland
Palpuogna snowshoe (Schneeschuh) Trail No. 528
Hike Distance: 5 km
Level: Easy/Medium
Duration: 2 hours
Ascent: 220 m
In the winter, when snow covers the Albula Pass, this region truly becomes a magic winter landscape. The Rhaetian Railway journey that passes through the small hamlet of Preda is often full of sleds and their owners making sure they don’t fall down as the train twists and turns through the tunnels and over the curved viaducts. This train ride is very smooth so all sleds and anybody standing close to them are pretty safe.
When leaving the train the majority of the people will be heading for the sled run. The snowshoe trail, in the opposite direction, is a calmer alternative to experience the peaceful natural environment of this area.
Short-cut option near Preda Photo A.Leggett
TheRoute
This circular trail from Preda train station follows old mule trails and leads to the beautiful Lake Palpuogna. The signposts, which are pink with a picture of a snowshoe, are easy to follow. This is a beautiful place to visit even though the lake is often covered in snow. Far away from any town or roads (the pass is closed to traffic in winter), this trail leads through pine forests and has lovely mountain views.
Some Tips
Tip 1:This is a great walk when trying out snowshoeing for the first time since most of the trail is groomed and reasonably easy.
Tip 2:Have your snack breaks in amongst the trees. The lake was exposed to an icy wind when wedid the hike and the only place to sit was a snow-covered bench with only the top showing. We used that as a seat, then quickly ate our snacks and took off into the forest which is where we should have stopped as the temperature was nice and mild amongst the trees.
Tip 3: The official map for the Palpuogna snowshoe trail can be found on the Swiss Mobility website. This website is also great for the national network of winter and snowshoe routes around the country.
Information
Services
Snowshoe and Sled Rental – Mark Sportin Bergün – staff are always friendly and happy to help. The Kiosk directly at Preda train station also hires a selection of sleds and snow shoes.
Getting There
The toboggan run and snowshoe trail both start from the train station at Preda.
Train: Bergün to Preda – 17 minutes and leaves regularly throughout the day. See sbb.ch for details. The Albula Pass road is closed to traffic during the winter months.
2. Thermal Baths in the Lower Engadin and Viamala Region
Engadin Bad Scuol(Bogn Engiadina) in the Upper Engadin
Inside the Bogn Engiadina, Image by Anita Leggett
The town of Scuol is the biggest town in the Lower Engadin Valley. It takes a bit of effort to get here but the journey through wild landscapes and past idyllic villages; as well as the magical views, from the baths themselves, are all good reasons to come.
What is available at the Scuol baths*
Panorama pool, approx. 33 ° C
Exercise and therapy pool, 33 ° C
Brine pool – 2% brine, approx. 33 ° C
Whirlpool – approx. 36 ° C
Grottos – Cold water, 18 ° C and warm water grotto, 36 ° C
We stayed in Andeer for a ski week in 2018 and found these mineral baths around the corner from our accommodation. We often went there in the evenings. I think I enjoy the thermal baths as much as the skiing!
The Andeer Mineral Baths are found in the small, typical Graubünden village of Andeer. This is an ideal place if you are looking for peace and quiet. They have cobbled streets and a pretty town center with a welcoming bakery. The buses leave from this area regularly to Splügen Tambo ski resort which can be reached in 13 mins or 15 minutes by car.
What is available at the Andeer baths*
One indoor and one outdoor mineral pool (good size) – both with bubble, whirlpool & neck shower
Constant 34 degrees
Evening light display in the outdoor pool
Wellness
Finnish sauna and bio sauna as well as a steam bath (currently reserved for women only from 6-9 pm).
Splash and Spa Tamaro Abo – 20% off ski pass (see website for details)
*As of Dec 2023
For up-to-date information and a funny video go to their website. Also, theSplügen Tambowebsite gives more information about the Splash and Spa Tamaro discount (20% off your day ski pass with entry to the spa).
Some lesser-known ski resorts in canton Graubünden – great for beginners
Splügen Tambo Ski Area – great skiing for beginners. Photo: A. Leggett
If you want to have a go at skiing far from the crowds. I recommend these small lesser-known ski slopes, also in canton Graubünden, that offer great practice runs for beginners – big or small.
Splügen – Tambo, The ski resort is close to Andeer and offers a wide variety of beginner & family slopes. Splügen is also a lovely, well-preserved historical town, across the road from the resort.
Tip: Book ski passes online, ski during the week or low season for lower prices and the day passes are discounted when combined with entry to the Andeer thermal baths.
Bergün, Graubünden – 1 beginner and 1 blue slope – both small – They are really good for practice before going to the neighbouring slopes of Darlux ski area: 3 lifts & 25km of slopes.
Pany – tiny ski resort with plenty of room to practice. Photo: A.Leggett
Pany(in Luzein, Prättigau, Graubünden) – a tiny ski area with 1 (very long) T-bar lift, 1 children’s lift and 7 km of runs. It includes a small number of good-sized runs through trees to make it interesting. Also offers a ski school and a lovely restaurant with a terrace.
If you are looking for one of the most beautiful winter landscapes in Switzerland you cannot avoid the Upper Engadin. This wide valley sits at 1,800 metres above sea level and is equipped with many frozen lakes, wide sweeping slopes and craggy mountain ranges; pristine villages and glamourous towns – St Moritz is one of the most well-known. Winters here are a blessing for winter sport enthusiasts with regular low temperatures, keeping the landscape white and the lakes frozen.
Lake Silvaplana is a large lake battered by the Maloja winds that sweep over the lake around midday each day. This and the large expanse of snow-covered ice make this lake a mecca for snow-kite surfing enthusiasts. The good news is that it has become a major sport which means better training, and plenty of options for beginners upwards – this includes beginner skiers (understandably, you do need to stand and move confidently on skis).
Swiss Kite Centre and School
This is the home of kite surfing and snow kite surfing. The owner, Swiss-born Stefan Popprath taught his first student snowkiting in 1994 even before an official name was given to the sport.
He founded the centre after realised the Maloja wind and the location of the lake was perfect for kites and surfing so, after some inspiration from another adventurer, Reinhold Messner, and researching and testing equipment, he set up the kite surfing centre in the 1990s. Anything you need to know about the centre and the sport is available on his website or by visiting the sport centre itself.
The Locations and other activities
Swiss Kitesurf has three locations. The main one is at the centre on Lake Silvaplana, the others are Furtschella – 5 mins from the centre and the Bernina Pass 20 mins from the centre. The Kite Surfing Centre is part of Mulet sport centre which also has an ice-skating rink, hockey field and curling.
Information
Services
Kite Rental – Seetheir websitefor information on Kite rental and schooling.
Food and Drink – Restaurant Mulets – Just above the kite surfing sports centre – with great views of the lake and mountains. See the kite sailing website for more information.
Getting There
Public Transport:Chur to Kite School Silvaplana train/bus journey time: 2 hours 30 mins with changes. St. Moritz by bus 17 minutes including an 8-minutewalk from the bus stop. See sbb.ch for timetables.
The 2.5 km Via da Glatsch ice-skating trail runs alongside the River Inn and links the villages of Zuoz to Madulain. These two traditional villages have stunning architecture and sit in a sunny part of the Engadin valley. Even though these villages are only around 25 minutes by train from the extravagant St. Moritz, they feel a world away. Zuoz is pretty and quiet with local produce and traditions everywhere. The tourist information offers a walking tour of the town with details about the history of different buildings and the everyday lives of the people living in this part of the Upper Engadin Valley.
Another Ice-Skating option – Lake St. Moritz (St. Moritzersee).
Glamorous people sparkle this time of year in St. Moritz. Some do literally sparkle and it can be blinding. Apart from this side of St. Moritz, there are some very cool groomed ice-skating tracks on the lake. They are nice and wide and you always have the option to rest in the snow at the side. This is such an idyllic location and it is difficult not to be impressed.
Information
Services for Ice-Skating Trail
Skate Rental – Willy Sport in Zuoz; Colamo Sport in La Punt Chamues-ch; Promulins Arena, Samedan
Admission Cost:- CHF5
Getting There
Train: St. Moritz – Madulain 21 mins; St.Moritz – Zuoz – 26 mins hourly changing at Samedan.
Sledding in the Bernese Oberland’s Reichenbach Valley
The Bernese Oberland’s Rychenbach River Valley connects the Meiringen region to the Grindelwald region. This valley gains altitude from Meiringen to the Grosse Scheidegg Pass.
The Reichenbach Valley
One of the oldest and best-preserved funiculars in Switzerland climbs from Meiringen village up to the alpine valley. The valley gradually gains altitude from the top of the funicular to Grosse Scheidegg (850 m – 1962 m) and is surrounded by views of dramatic mountains.
The valley has forests, wide open fields, theRosenlaui Gorge and the impressive Reichenbach River. Little hamlets and the romanticRosenlaui Hotel can be found along the way. The Post Bus is one of the few forms of transport that can use the small windy road without restrictions.
Where to Sled
This kind of landscape is perfect for winter sledding. The post bus travels from Meiringen up to the valley’s highest point – Grosse Scheidegg. From here it is an exciting 5.5 km ride on the sled down to the hamlet of Schwarzwaldalp where the bus once again takes you and your sled up to start all over again.
The views are amazing with the run at the foot of the dramatic Wetterhorn and the Horn range of mountains.
Experience Needed:Suitable for both novices and experienced riders.
Tip. There are also many snowshoe trails in the Reichenbach Valley.
Information
Services
Sled Rental– from the Chalet-Hotel Schwarzwaldalp. Food and Drink – there are restaurants and services at both ends of the sled run – Schwarzwaldalp and Grosse Scheidegg.
Getting There
Public Transport – Interlaken to Meiringen
Sledding – A special Schlitten (sled) Bus runs regularly from Meiringen to Schwarzwaldalp and then up to Grosse Scheidegg.
Operating times 2023/2024
Daily: from 26th December 2023 to 7th January 2024
Thursday to Sunday: from 11th January to 3rd March 2024
Velogemel is a cross between a bike and a sled. Now used as an adrenalin-fuelled activity, this contraption was originally meant as an everyday way of getting about in the winter months for the locals. Developed and patented by Christian Bühlmann from Grindelwald back in 1911, it was known as a “single-track steerable sled”.
The Velogemel toboggan run is the bottom part of the Big Pintenfritz tobogganing run which is considered the longest in Europe at 15 km and is classed as difficult. So think carefully before attempting it.
Where the Velogemel run starts and finishes
Starts: At Bussalp (1,800 m). The stunning views from Bussalp include the world-famous Alp trio – Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. The descent gives an adrenalin hit in terms of speed and balance and is definitely a very original and adventurous way to fly down a mountain.
Finishes: In either Grindelwald,Weidli (2.5 km northwest of the train station) or Grindelwald Village depending on the conditions. (See Info section below for more details).
Tip 1: If you only want to watch these bike-sleds in action, the Velogemel World Championships take place at the beginning of February every year (since 1996) – the races start from Bussalp.
Tip 2:It is better to do the run in the morning as the snow can get soft and sludgy later in the day.
Tip 2: There are also plenty of other toboggan runs with all levels of difficulty starting from or going through Bussalp. See this link for more information – Grindelwaldbus.
“City Run – The Classic” Toboggan Run, Bussalp – Weidli
Information
Services
Velogemel Rental – Rent from either Grindelwald railway station, Kaufmann Sport in Grindelwald centre or Ski service Egger at Grindelwald Grund, then take the bus from the train station to Bussalp at 1800 m. Food and Drink – Bergrestaurant (mountain restaurant) Bussalp.
Getting There
GrindelwaldBus line 126 from Grindelwald train station to Bussalp. Toboggan run stops in Weidli, above Grindelwald village. Buses regularly leave from Weidli back up to Bussalp.
Cantons Lucerne and Schwyz
7. Winter Hiking and snowshoe trails
Winter Hiking on the sunny Ibereregg Pass, high above Schwyz township.
Ibergeregg Pass looking towards Lake Lucerne, Photo by A.Leggett
Tucked in between Lakes Lucerne and Lake Zürich is the wonderful Mythen region of foothills and mountains. IbergereggPass is part of the mountainous area connecting the Einsiedeln region (close to Zürich) and the Rotenflue mountain, above the town of Schwyz (close to Lake Lucerne).
This is a great place to get above the clouds and walk out in the open and through fir trees to Berggasthäuser (mountain restaurants) and Beizlis (small eateries). There are often views of the lakes or, like in this photo, a blanket of clouds.
Mythen Region
The Mythen region is an alpine region that encompasses the Ibergeregg Pass, the dramatic GrosseMythen mountain (1,898 m) and the Rotenflue mountain (1,571 m). This is where you will find a wide, undulating landscape with dramatic mountains, meadows, moorlands and woods – a paradise for walking, winter sports and trying out the local produce.
Hiking and snowshoe trails – Ibergeregg Pass
Ibergeregg Pass is a good place to try out some winter walks and snowshoe trails as there is a good network of national routes and local routes starting here. Also, there are many mountain restaurants and inns in this region and the routes pass right past a few of them. They often have outdoor terraces and are well-signposted.
Information
Travelling to Rotenflue from Lake Lucerne: Train/Bus to Rychenbach (a suburb of the Schwyz township); then Rotenflue cable car – 1 hour 25 minutes including changes.
Travelling to Ibergeregg Pass from Zürich: Train to Schwyz, change at Arth Goldau; then bus to Ibergeregg Pass (505) – 1 hour 40 mins including changes.
Region of Einsiedeln/Oberiberg: These are starting points for the Hoch Ybrig ski resort, then bus 505 leaves from Oberiberg – 12 minutes.
Rigi mountain range – gentle slopes overlooking Lake Lucerneon one side and Lake Zug on the other
A natural border between the lower, flatter Swiss Mittelland that runs in a northwesterly direction and the summits of the Swiss Alps, Rigi is considered one of the most classic panorama mountains in Switzerland. Rigi summit, topped by Rigi Kulm, rises between Lake Zug (Zugersee) and Lake Lucerne (Vierwaldstättersee).
Winter WalkingTrails
There are several winter walks and snowshoe trails spread along Rigi’s peaks and slopes and they are all well connected by a network of public transport.
Winter Walking –Rigi Panorama Path
Rigi Kaltbad, on the Lake Lucerne facing slope, has a small station for the historical mountain railway and is home to the Mineralbad & Spa– sublime thermal baths with a view.
A gentle walk from the main summit, Rigi Kaltbad to Rigi Scheidegg offers plenty of superb lookout points in all directions.
Hike Distance: approx.7.9 km
Level: Medium
Finish: Rigi Scheidegg
Duration: 2 hrs
Type of Walk: Point-to-Point
AscentDescent: 250/136 m
Start: Rigi Kaltbad
This winter route is called the Panoramaweg (Panorama Walk). It doesn’t have any steep sections – just a long gentle ascent from 1,424 m to 1,641 m over 8 km. It can be walked in both directions, in sections or used for walking to one of the mountain restaurants’ panorama terraces.
Information
This walk starts and finishes with different means of ascent/descent as follows:
Rigi Kaltbad:
Lake Lucerne/Vitznau: mountain rail
Lake Lucerne/Weggis: cable car
Lake Zug side/Arth Goldau: mountain rail
Rigi Scheidegg:
From Rigi Scheidegg to Kräbel: mountain rail – linking with mountain railway to Arth Goldau, (Lake Zug side).
From Rigi Scheidegg to Kräbel: mountain railway to Rigi Kulm (peak) then to Vitznau by mountain train or Weggis by cable car (Lake Lucerne).
Websites:sbb.chfor boat/train/mountain rail links and Rigi for cable car information and further winter walks, snowshoe trails, toboggan runs etc.
Understanding Winter Signposts
Sledding Guidelines
Links
Winter trails are clearly visible in a snowy environment
Pink signposts and arrows are used for winter walking, hiking or snowshoe trails and the turquoise signs represent cross-country skiing.
Snow Shoe Trails
Snowshoe trails are pink with a snowshoe symbol. If the trail is a national route, then it indicates the name and number of the route with a dark pink background.
WinterHiking Routes
The national routes are marked with the relevant number on a light pink background
Winter trails sometimes have a symbol that indicates what kind of walk it is – light walk or hike. In this case, it is an 8 km hike that ascends 340 m.
Good to know: Pink poles line both sides of the trails and it is important to stay within these poles as ski pistes often zig-zag beside, through and past the winter hiking routes.
Local Routes
Many local councils have created winter trails – sometimes groomed, sometimes not but definitely a unique way of seeing the villages from a different perspective (this one is above Bergün in the Albula Pass).
These are normally pink with a white snowflake.
Cross-Country Skiing Signs
Cross-country skiing signposts and route indicators are turquoise. However, this road sign is pretty clear – you are about to cross a cross-country skiing track.
Restaurant and Guesthouse Signs
Beizli – small eatery serving local products,
Bergrestaurant – mountain restaurant
Bergasthaus – mountain guest house and restaurant
Alpwirtschaft – a small family-owned restaurant often part of a farm or cheese dairy (may not be open in summer).
Alpstubli – Look and feel of a traditional mountain restaurant – often large and associated with a ski area.
My Favourite Sign – made by my kids.
Sledding Guidelines
Small toboggan run in Oberiberg, canton Schwyz. Photo A.Leggett
What to wear –
Always wear good winter boots with a solid sole and plenty of tread. Your boots are used for braking and steering.
Ski helmet.
Waterproof gloves, ski pants and ski jacket
Scarf ( tucked in of course)
Small backpack
Goggles or good sunglasses
How to use the wooden Davos sleds –
Leg position – Legs should be bent and facing forward. Hold onto the reins and lean back. On straight and flat sections of the run, the feet can rest on the runners.
Steering – Steer with both your boots and body – When steering to the left, simply put your left foot out into the snow and the same with a right turn, right foot. Also, lean your body in the direction you are turning (into the corner).
Braking –
When the terrain flattens out put both feet flat on the snow to slow down or stop.
When on the slope, dig your heels into the snow to slow down and brake.
If you need to brake on steep terrain, pull up the front of the sled with the reins. The more you pull, the more you will brake.
When the run becomes steep it is better to sit in the rear of the sled.
Rules of sledging
Show consideration for others
Adapt speed and driving style to ability
Respect the lane of the vehicle in front
Overtake with distance
Look up before entering and approaching the road
Stop at the edge
Get on and off at the edge
Observe signs and markings
German words for communicating when sledding
Sledding/sled – schlitten fahren/ der Schlitten
Sled rental – Schlitten mieten.
Watch out! – Achtung! or aufpassen!
I am passing! – Ich gehe durch! or Achtung!
Further Links
Swiss Mobility has a listing of around 100 toboggan runs with filter options for level of difficulty. Go to the link here to take a look – Schwiezmobil.
schlitten.ch is a great website, in German and English, which offers advice on different types of sledand how to get around the corners without falling off.
After spending a few hours hiking on an alpine trail that goes through meadows and forests; under overhanging rocks, across streams and through high valleys, it is such a wonderful feeling when the magical Oberblegisee alpine lake appears in front of you mirroring the surrounding mountain peaks.
The only access to the lake is with a gondola ride and then hiking and biking trails – keeping it well hidden.
The Walk
The walk to the lake and then to the Brunnenberg cable car takes approx. 3 hours with stops. The start is mainly flat then it goes up and down a bit before reaching the lake. A grill spot with views, a simple restaurant serving regional products and 2 self-service alpine cheese dairies are found along the route. Good to Know: They only accept cash and sometimes the TWINT app.
Getting to the Trail
The trip up the mountain starts at Linthal in the Glarus valley. This valley branches off just before Lake Walen (Walensee) and is reached by exiting the main motorway from Zürich at Glarus/Näfels (No. 44 off-ramp). The region, which includes the UNESCO World Heritage Sardona Tectonic Arena, is called Glarnerland.
Good to Know: The national public transport system (sbb.ch) offers a combi-deal – a discount when booking the complete trip through them. Get more information here.
Directions are as follows:
At Linthal Braunwaldbahn take the funicular to the car-free village of Braunwald.
Walk approx. 10-minutes to the Hüttenberg – Grotzenbüel gondola
When arriving at the Grotzenbüel ski and hiking area, look for the yellow sign (with white/red/white mountain trail markings) to OberblelgiseeRundweg.
The hiking trail ends at the Luchsingen gondola station that will take back down the valley to the Brunnenberg train station.
For more details on the funicular, gondolas(operating times), hiking trail and what time of year to do it see the Getting There section below.
The Trail
Distance: 8 km (from gondola to gondola)
Takes: approx. 3 hrs with stops.
Ascent: 77 m
Descent: 540 m
After leaving the top station of the Grotzenbüel gondola, the first part of the walk is alongside rolling pastures and forested areas with great views of the mountain range on the other side of the valley.
In the summer the dairy farms are busy making dairy products that can be enjoyed at small restaurants and Käserei (cheese dairies) throughout the whole walk.
Walking in the Glarus Mountains to Oberblegi Lake (Oberblegisee)
A lovely thick forest with wild mushrooms and ferns opens out to a wide valley. From here the trail winds uphill to a pretty little Beizli (small farm restaurant) which has a small but very tasty menu of local ingredients.
Then the wonderful Lake Oberblegisee with plenty of places for a picnic or, if you are brave, a swim.
Getting There
Hüttenberg-Grotzenbüel gondola also runs in winter for winter sports
Take the LinthalValley to Braunwaldfunicular, then walk to Hüttenberg for the gondola to Grotzenbüel to begin the walk (1,559 m).
The trail ends at the Brunnenberg cable car that travels down to the Luchsingen Valley.
In the warmer months, this alpine valley in the Swiss Alps is accessible by bus and on foot. In winter when the valley is covered in snow it is possible to do the legendary 5.5 km sled run from Grosse Scheidegg, down through the valley to Schwarzwaldalp.
The Bernese Oberland offers some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in Europe while quietly keeping the Alpine farming traditions and heritage alive. When walking in the upper valley that runs between Meiringen to Grindelwald, you feel as if you have come to a truly authentic part of Switzerland. This valley offers vistas of mighty peaks, moorlands, mossy forests, tiny hamlets with traditional farms, and country Inns.
The sound of cowbells, the wild Rychenbach river, waterfalls and the sing song warning from the Post Bus as it navigates the tight bends on the valley road all remind you exactly where you are – so typically Swiss.
Where to Start
Summer
From Meiringen – Daily bus services from 18th May 2023 – 22 October 2023
Option 1: Walking the official Via Alpina trail which rises 400m/3 km from Meiringen township to the valley.
Option 2: Take the nostalgic cog railway up this section. This runs alongside the very famous 300-metre-high Reichenbach Falls. Made famous by Arthur Conan Doyle’s short story The Final Problem where Sherlock Holmes and Professor Moriarty fight on the ledge overlooking the falls.
Winter
From Meiringen – The bus timetable can be found at postauto.ch.
Toboggan Run: 5.5 km sled run from Grosse Scheidegg down to Schwarzwaldalp, then bus back to Meiringen.
Distances
Meiringen – Grosse Scheidegg Pass
Length: 15km Ascent: 1400m (from top of cog train 1,100 m)
Grosse Scheidegg Pass – Grindelwald
Length: 8km Descent: 930 m
Ways of seeing the area – from May to October
From mid-May to mid-October the yellow post buses help you getthrough the valley.
Options: 1. Walk 2. Take the bus 3. Walk and take the bus
There are plenty of places on the walk which move away from the road. Even so, there are around 10 bus stops along the route from the top of Reichenbach Fallsin Meiringen to Grosse Scheidegg.
The Grindelwald Bus goes from Grosse Scheidegg down to Grindelwald, taking about 30 mins.
Good to Know:Private cars are not allowed to drive over the Grosse Scheidegg Pass without a permit.
Pit Stops
The lovingly restored 18th-century Rosenlaui Hotel (12th May – 15th October) comes as a big surprise when seeing it for the first time. Up until arriving at this point we only saw traditional buildings. I thought we had perhaps taken the wrong turn and were heading into Grindelwald or Interlaken but no, this lovely and inviting Inn is in the middle of this valley.
Standing at the entrance to the Rosenlaui Gorge, this well-preserved hotel was built after an influx of 18th-century artists and poets fell in love with the region and needed somewhere to stay.
Note: There are no TVs or wifi in the building and there is a photo-free zone in all public areas. I didn’t realise this when taking the photo above…
The track starts in Willingen in Meiringen and climbs approx. 300 metres to the alpine valley alongside the Reichenbach Falls. The other option, the very civilised historical cog railway built in 1899, slowly takes you up the steep slope to the edge of the falls.
We used the cog railway for this walk for two reasons – a better view of the falls and an easy start to the 1,100-metre ascent to Grosse Scheidegg (we were determined to do this section without taking the bus).
Starting the walk
From the pretty village of Zwirgi, the trail goes gradually uphill through a forest beside the road, and for a short time, on the road. The track then leads deeper into the forest and then out to wide meadows with the iconic Wellhorn mountain dominating the skyline.
This grill has the best views you could ask for. I loved the rustic wooden shelter which seemed to have everything needed for a grill – seating, frypans, tongs and even an axe! We were tempted to stop but knew the Rosenlaui Hotel was close. We really felt like a cold drink, so after taking a few photos we moved on.
The Rosenlaui Hotel is gorgeous – lovely staff and an amazing setting. After a quick look at the little waterfall on the grounds of the Hotel (the waiter kindly let us know it was there), we made our way past the Rosenlaui Glacier Gorgeentrance – (a possible side trip), through a very mossy forest to the little hamlet of chalets at Schwarzwaldalp.
The final stage of this walk passes through wild woodlands with jaw-dropping views of the Wellhorn mountains and the Wetterhorn.
At this point of the walk, the trail becomes very steep but luckily there are plenty of benches for resting and refueling.
We celebrated our achievement with a drink at the Berghotel Grosse Scheidegg, then caught the bus to Grindelwald. This 30-minute bus ride can be seriously panoramic – depending on the weather.
There are plenty of other walks from Grosse Scheidegg. A couple of options:
Continue down the valley to complete stage 10 of the Via Alpina trail.
Across to First with views of majestic mountains Eiger, Schreckhorn and Wetterhorn. (First also offers one of Grindelwald’s top five adventures – flying across a sun terrace while strapped into a harness).
Links to Swiss Mobility Map
Swiss Mobility has a well-detailed map with a height profile and tips on saving altitude. A link to the complete Stage 10 of the Via Alpina trail (Meiringen – Grindelwald) can be found here. It is possible to continue onwards by following the Via Alpina – offical walking route number 1. This Route crosses 14 Alpine passes, with a distance of 390 km and has 20 stages.
Stein am Rhein in canton Schaffhausen Photo by A.Leggett
When searching for a place to lift your spirits, you can’t go wrong with these well-preserved and authentic Swiss towns found in the northern regions. The countryside from Geneva in the west to St. Gallen in the east is made up of farmland, hills, mountain ranges, lakes of all sizes and river valleys. Within this area north of the alps, there are plenty of medieval towns – each with its own special appeal. Here are some discoveries of mine:
Picturesque Villages en route from Geneva to St. Gallen
1. Saint Saphorin
From Geneva to Lausanne – driving distance: 66 km – train journey time: express trains 35-45 mins/ region trains 48 mins.For regional train services from Vevey to the vineyard villages see the Regional Train info below.
Saint Saphorin is just one example of over 15 unspoiled villages found within a UNESCO World Heritage landscape known as the Lavaux terraces found on the edge of Lake Geneva. The residents of these villages have been working together in harmony with the landscape for hundreds of years, keeping the viticulture traditions alive. The continued success of growing grapes in this region is helped along by the favourable climatic conditions known as the “three suns” – the sun itself, the sun’s rays reflected by the lake and the warmth stored in the walls of the vineyards.
This pretty lakeside village is found between the lively town of Montreux and the city of Lausanne – an area known as the Montreux Riviera.
The Village
St. Saphorin is known for its winding cobbled alleyways and narrow back streets. The jumble of little houses, vaulted doors and archways date back to medieval times when the town used to be a fortified village. The ruins of a Gallo-Roman villa can be found in the basement of the reformed church and are listed as Swiss cultural assets of national importance.
Good to Know: St. Saphorin has been a member of the Association, “The Most Beautiful Villages in Switzerland”, since 2016.
The Region
There are networks of walking and biking trails as well as panorama, express and local train lines that snake their way across the landscape.
Regional Trains
The regional train service passes through the towns of Epesses,Rivaz, Saint-Saphorin,Vevey then Vevey to Chexbres offering a great sightseeing alternative. Visit sbb.ch for more information. The SBB website also offers maps for each service – in the timetable page add from/to then click on the departure time. The map link is shown in the This Connection box. It‘s a great way to visualise the villages and train lines.
Lavaux UNESCO Vineyard Walk
This 10 km circular walk links the region’s villages of Chexbres, Saint-Saphorin, Rivax and Epesses and can be started from any of the villages’ train stations. For more information go to the Vaud Tourism website which offers both a detailed map and guide to the walk, or you can download the Vaud: Guide – a free app that guides you around the route. The App also offers informative tidbits along the way and doesn’t require an internet connection – GPS is used.
Fitness level and accessibility
Accessible to people with average fitness – the paths are all paved and are pushchair and wheelchair friendly although there are some steep parts.
From Lausanne – driving distance: 57 km – train journey time: 1 hr 15 mins (2 changes).
Gruyères village; Photo by A.Leggett
The village of Gruyères is popular with tourists; not what my blog is about, but I had to include it, as it’s so pretty! The historical centre is set apart from the train station and suburban areas by its position high up on the slope of a hill, with the lovely 13th Century Gruyères castle at the highest point.
This centre is car-free, with a wide cobbled space between the rows of elegant buildings. You will find cafes, restaurants, boutique shops, souvenir shops and fountains here, as well as lovely views of the Fribourg and La Gruyère regions. One of the best places to see the Alps is from from the castle’s gardens.
Historyand Legend
According to legend, Gruyères was founded in 400 B.C. by the Vandal King Gruerius. He saw a crane (“grue” in French) flying across the crimson evening sky and decided to build his town on that spot. The coat of arms of Gruyères depicts a crane on a red background. The town and castle were once home to the counts of Gruyère. Over the centuries battles were won and then badly lost but the castle still looks as good as new.
Sights in the area
There are also plenty of wonderful things to do in the area – that are more off the beaten track.
Walk through the Gorges de la Jogne – narrow gorge with limestone rock formations and lush green surroundings. The river Jaun swirls through this gorge and can be viewed from the walkways, bridges and tunnels in the rock.
Visit the modern Les Bains de la Gruyère (Thermal Baths) in the pretty baroque town of Charmey. Note:The website is currently only in French and phones are strictly prohibited from being used in the bathing area.
Visit the alpine village of Jaun, the only German-speaking village in the area, with its chalets and lovely waterfall that flows out of the limestone hillside. Is a great starting point for hiking and skiing.
In winter visit the ski resorts found in both Jaunand Charmey.
From Neuchâtel – driving distance: 30 km via A5 (approx. 30 mins) – train journey time: 21 mins.
The well-preserved town of Murten, on the edge of a lake of the same name, is part of the three-lake-region found close to Lake Geneva. The historic town centre has large arches and pretty fountains dating back to the 15th century. The town opens out to an attractive lakefront area which is set up with ice-cream stalls, mini-golf, sunbathing lawns, swimming pool, lake swimming, boating and watersports – so is generally a nice spot for cooling off and relaxing.
This photo was taken from the old town’s rampart walls which were built in several stages from the 12th Century. Walking along these Ramparts is a fun way to see the old town, view the lake and learn a bit about the long history of the area.
Placesand events in Murten:
Historical fountains – dating back to the 15th century.
Arches and Arcades – The Baroque-styled town’s Hauptgasse (car-free main street). Arches line the cobbled streets. Certain restrictions keep the old town streets of Murten in their original state.
Moat & Towers 12 fortification towers are built into the rampart walls. Each tower’s name relates to its position and original function. There are some rather unsettling names, such as Death Tower (Totentanz), which is at the site of the first slaughterhouse, the Prison Tower and the Witches Tower…
Murten Museum – one of the oldest in canton Fribourg, is located in a former mill outside the rampart walls. The permanent exhibition illustrates 6,000 years of Murten’s history with items from everyday life & a multimedia show of the Battleof Murten.
Another lovely town on the edge of Lake Murten is Avenches – which is a member of the Most Beautiful Villages in Switzerland association – an achievement proudly mentioned on the town’s website. For more information on this town and all the activities around Lake Murten
4. Twann
From Biel/Bienne – driving distance: 8 km – train journey time: 7 mins.
From Neuchâtel – driving distance: 23 km, (20 mins) – train journey time: 22 mins.
Twann is one of several historic wine villages with unspoiled centres found around Lake Biel/Bienne. This hidden gem is all about wine with its ornate shop signs, wine cellars, shops, restaurants and impressive Vinothek Viniterra. One of the most attractive wine trails in the country, the Rebenweg, also leaves from here.
The Murals of Twann Project
4 large-scale murals carefully painted by a local artist are recent additions to Twann’s Dorfstrasse. Created in 2019, 2020, & 2021, they show seasonal work on the vines, with one mural for each season. The preparation and paintings were carefully thought out to fit in with the village and reflect the traditional practices used in the vineyards.
Site of National Importance
Lake Biel’s northern region is part of a wine protection zone and is listed as a site of national importance. This area includes several wine villages and hamlets, vineyards, stone walls and pathways. The protected villages are La Neuveville, Ligerz, Twann and Tüscherz.
5.St. Ursanne
From Biel/Bienne – driving distance: 50 – 60 km – train journey time: 48 mins, either direct or changing at Delémont.
A shuttle bus connects Saint Ursanne train station (found above the town) to the town centre. It’s also possible to walk into town from the station – about 10 minutes downhill.
Saint Ursanne is a magical place. You could see why the Irish monk Ursicinus chose this secluded spot on the Doubs for his hermit life. After a long missionary journey from Ireland to the Frankish kingdom, he is said to have settled in a grotto in the area shortly after 600 AD. About 500 years later, monks founded a monastic community at his tomb and started construction on the collegiate church (12th Century) which has been added to and changed over the years. It has beautiful Klosters and a courtyard worth visiting. If you feel like a bit of exercise, it is possible to reach the hermitage grotto of the Irish monk, however, you would need to be willing to climb over 190 steep steps.
St. Ursanne has retained its medieval charm. The arrangement of the houses (some from the 14th and 15th Century) clearly shows the course of the former city walls. Anyone who wants to get to the city centre has to go through one of the three city gates. When I visited in March 2021 the cobbled street and underground water supply were being completely renovated in fact when I walked into the town, there were hardly any cobbles – just a dirt road. I imagine it all looks pristine and pretty today and I would love to visit again soon.
Things to do in the area
The area is very enchanting with its lush forests, wild natural environment and the impressive Doubs River. Below are some ways of exploring the area:
A network of hiking trails leave directly from the train station.
Climb to the hermitage grotto of Ursicinus and the 16th-century chapel.
Discover the Doubs Nature Park – almost 300 square kilometres, from the French border.
Canoeing on the Doubs – also for beginners and families (book at the tourism officefrom 1st March – 1st October).
Other activities organised through the information centre are bike or scooter rental, football-golf, golf, archery and horse-drawn carriage rides.
While in the neighbourhood
Tour around the most beautiful villages in the Jura and Three Lakes Region
The Jura and Three-Lake-Region’s official website (j3l.ch) has put together a tour of the attractive historical towns in the region (in the Jura mountains & the Neuchâtel, Bienne and Murten lakes). This is a circular tour made up of 10 stages and is a great way to explore the region.
6. Solothurn
From Bern – driving distance: 41 km via A1 northbound, then A5 – train journey time: 37 mins.
From Biel/Bienne – driving distance: 30 km on the A5 – train journey time: 13 mins.
Considered the finest Baroque town in Switzerland, Solothurn’s streets and alleyways are lined with elegant buildings that open out to pretty courtyards and squares. Riverside cafes and restaurants with outdoor terraces line the Aare river and cycle paths wind their way along the banks. Found on the southern end of the Jura mountains, Solothurn can be reached easily from Biel/Bienne (30 km), which is found at the eastern edge of the three-lakes region.
For more information on the old-town historical buildings, activities plus sights in the region go to my canton Solothurn page.
7. Zug
From Lucerne – driving distance: 33 km via motorway – train journey time: 20-30 mins.
From Zürich–driving distance: 30 km via motorway – train journey time: 20-27 minswith express trains.
Zug’s lakefront with the old town in the distance
The main north/south highway curves around Zug and the express trains from Zürich to the south pass through Zug’s central station. Because of this, it is easy to just pass by the town in favour of the more well-known places like Zürich, Lucerne or Locarno. I had been in Switzerland for over 10 years without a visit – I would catch fleeting glimpses of the lake as the train or car whizzed by but finally decided to spend the day here to check out the old town, the lake and do a hike on the Zugerberg hill above the town. I now recommend adding Zug to your itinerary – especially when the sun is shining.
The Town
Zug regularly appears on lists as one of the best places to live in Switzerland which is partly down to its location. Zug has an attractive position on the edge of Zugersee (Lake Zug) with uninterrupted views to the foothills and alps. The old town is well preserved and its cobbled streets and alleyways lead to the lakeside. From here it is possible to wander to lakeside parks and open spaces that are great for chilling and watching the setting sun mirrored in the lake.
Rosengarten and Guggi Hill
The Rosengarten located on top of Guggi hill is a wooded meadow close to the centre which overlooks the old town and offers some great views of the town’s rooftops, spires and the mountains.
Bike Hire
Bikes are available to rent at most main train stations and during the summer months – there are some free bike rental programs.
Zug old townPhoto by A. Leggett
The old town’s clock tower
The clock tower (13th century) with its pretty blue and white striped roof tiles, dominates the historical part of the town. It is possible to climb to a viewing chamber, added in 1557, that looks out over the roofs of Zug by picking up a key from the souvenir shop underneath (a small deposit is necessary).
Tip:Zug’s waterfront location has some perfect spots for viewing the sunset. For a link to sunset times go here.
For more information about the region including Zugerberg mountain go to my canton Zug page.
8.Eglisau
From Zürich – driving distance: 26km via the A1L and A51 directly north – train journey time: 32 mins on S9 – no change.
Eglisau at sunrise
Eglisau is a well-preserved, small town north of Zürich. What makes it extra special is its position on the Rhine and the forests and vineyards that surround it. Between the forest and town centre there is a park and a historic wooden bathhouse with facilities for swimming in the Rhine – including a sunbathing lawn, 15 m long enclosed swimming area, a diving board, paddling area for kids and toilets. The bathhouse is open from May to September when the sun is shining.
From here there are some idyllic walking trails, one goes up above the vineyards overlooking the Rhine and another winds its way through a thickly forested nature reserve, alongside the river.
Good to Know: There are some good BBQ facilities found along the trail.
From Zürich – driving distance: 56 km – train journey time: Just over an hour, changing at either Schaffhausen (22 mins) or Winterthur (40 mins).
View of Stein am Rhein and Hohenklingen Castle, Photo by A. Leggett
The medieval centre of Stein am Rhein is a work of art – a description used often to describe this town. Found on the edge of the Rhein in a very picturesque location, Stein am Rhein’s historic centre has a wide pedestrian area that acts as a viewing gallery for the building’s painted facades. You will find scenes from past battles, farming traditions and even some mythical creatures. There are always a few people standing in the square, looking up with their cameras perhaps trying to understand what it all means.
Photos by A.Leggett
Activities and Eateries
Fountains of all sizes are found around the town and, in summer, restaurants and cafes offer outdoor seating shaded with large sun umbrellas. It is also possible to walk alongside, take a boat trip on or swim in the Rhine… depending on the weather and how energetic you are feeling…
For the kids, there is a small ride-along train (summer) and an adventure playground. Riverside bathing facilities (small charge) are at the west end of the town – about 10 minutes by foot.
Steps from the historical old town of Stein am Rhein to Hohenklingen Castle& the castle’s entrance. Photos by A.Leggett
Hike to a castle
If you are in the mood for a bit of an uphill hike – it is possible to walk through the vineyards and forest up to Hohenklingen castle. There is a restaurant with a terrace and viewing areas offering a great view of the old town. There are also several grill spots in a clearing alongside the castle – also with views. The walk through the castle is free.
Driving instead of walking: Hohenklingen castle is a short drive from Stein am Rhein through vineyards and the forest. There are parking options alongside the road – just follow the signposts.
10. Appenzell
From Zürich – driving distance: 100 km – train journey time: 2 hrs (1 change in Gossau)
From St.Gallen – driving distance: 20 km – train journey time: 40 mins (no change)
Pharmacy in the village of Appenzell Photo by A.Leggett
With Appenzell being the most traditional canton in Switzerland there is always something to discover – such as the villages with their picturesque buildings, the local museums and the rural art, crafts and folklore. Bold and bright colours are part of these traditions and the village of Appenzell is the perfect place to experience this.
The town of Appenzell is full of historical buildings that have been beautifully crafted with coloured panels, elegantly designed gables, paintings on the facades and ornate signs dangling from the shops and eateries.
For an overview of the region’s special history visit Museum Appenzellwhich focuses on traditional costumes, local beliefs, customs and folk art.
Shopping in Appenzell Village
There are over 60 shops in the village centre selling things like traditional crafts, alpine herb products, specialty meat, cheese and milk products, as well as the local beer and Appenzell liqueur (yum). They also do a really good job of making sweet treats that have been around for centuries like the Biber Cake (Beaver cake) – made with honey, almonds and spices. You will find quality outdoor clothing here to prepare for hiking in the hills and mountains and, of course, plenty of souvenir shops.
Landsgemeindeplatz– Local Parliament
The historic Appenzell village square or Landsgemeindeplatz is the scene each year of the local parliament (Landsgemeinde). All cantonal elections and parliamentary business are publicly debated here and voting is by a public show of hands.
Countryside & Traditions
The village of Speicher in the Appenzell’s hilly mittelland, @Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
Appenzell is surrounded by rolling hills (mittelland) dotted with traditional farmhouses and villages. The soaring, jagged peaks of the Alpstein Massif offer a stunning backdrop. It is like an adventure playground with plenty of opportunities to go hiking (summer and winter), tobogganing, riding on cable cars or just getting out into the countryside.
One of my favourite pastimes is walking around the hills of Appenzell (and, yes, the hills are alive with the sound of cowbells). It is so easy to get up and out in this region. The regional trains will drop you off at the start of one of the many hiking paths that leave from the villages or hamlets. There are trails all over the hilly countryside and, if you like a bit more of a challenge – treks in the mountainous Alpstein region. For walks in the area go to the Appenzellerland official website.
Where to experience the traditions and culture
Das Silvesterchlausen is a New Year’s tradition celebrated in the Appenzeller Hinterland und Mittelland. @Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
Many of the traditions in this area are centered around farming practices and products. Cheesemaking, haymaking and animal husbandry have been around for decades. Some of the traditions are:
Cattle drive up and down the mountains – with a procession, colourful costumes, finely crafted bells and singing – seen in spring and autumn
Yodelling and traditional music
Carnivals
Cattle shows
Colourful, ornately designed and larger-than-life costumes – worn for many occasions.
Peasant Art (Senntumsmalerei) (16th Century) – paintings depicting everyday farm life and hunting. Souvenir and art shops in the villages have all kinds of Senntumsmalerei prints such as posters, postcards, carvings and calendars to name a few.
The Appenzell Folklore Museum in Stein and the Appenzeller Brauchtum (customs) Museum in the town of Urnäsch tell the story of these paintings along with other traditions and customs.
The Appenzellerland website is a great source of information for all of the above experiences.
For some of my own experiences in this region go to my canton Appenzell page.
Acknowledgements
St. Ursanne sunset photo: susnpics at pixabay
Eglisau village image:hans-hamann-lQ3oGSpwUyY-unsplash
Forget the glitzy Swiss lakeside or mountaintop resorts, the 12 UNESCO World Heritage Sites are the real Swiss treasures. Wherever you are in Switzerland, you are bound to be close to one of these Swiss treasures thanks to the extensive Swiss public transport system, network of tunnels and the way they happen to be scattered throughout the country. Some are found near cities, or in places popular with tourists while others are much more remote and need a bit more effort to reach, however, it’s still worth adding them to your itinerary as the surrounding regions are also extraordinary.
The Irish monk Gallus laid the Abbey’s foundation stone in 612. Around 100 years later, the monastery adopted the rule of Saint Benedict and transformed it into an important centre for writing activities and book illumination. Over time, the library became one the best stocked and oldest libraries in the world – now under the care of the Abbey District, who look after the archives, the library and the cathedral.
Why a World Heritage Site?
The decision to make this Abbey complex into a UNESCO World Heritage site was down to the rich traditions and the well-preserved collections that date back to the 8th Century.
The Abbey Library
The Abbey Library at St. Gallen, photo by Switzerland Tourism
The Abbey‘s lavish Rococo library is full of treasures. Not only is it a feast for the eyes, but it also is home to around 170,000 books and some of the most important collections of medieval manuscripts in Europe – ones you may have heard about in history class for example. This collection dates back 1300 years – to when the abbey was originally founded.
In the middle of the 18th century, the abbots started a cabinet of curiosities with a collection of art, science and nature. The collection includes paintings, astronomical instruments and fossils. One example that takes pride of place is a huge terrestrial and celestial globe (1571), which is part of the ‘East India Collection’. Later additions, that stand out when you wander around the library, are the Egyptian mummies (7th century BC) which have to be seen to be believed.
Visiting the Library
The admission ticket, which is valid for three exhibitions, is recommended to be bought at the ticket office in the exhibition hall.
Getting There
The Abbey complex is made up of a Cathedral, the Abbey library and vaulted cellar, Kloster bistro, Charles‘ Gate and a government building and can be found in the lovely old town of Saint Gallen – also worth visiting for its attractive pedestrian area.
Public Transport
Zürich to St. Gallen: – 1 hr to 1 hr 13 mins, no changes.
By Car
From Zürich: – 93 km (approx. 1 hr 10 mins – 1 hr 25 mins) on the A1 motorway.
2. Benedictine Convent of St. John in Müstair
Müstair
Müstair village is tucked far away in the Val Müstair, found deep in the most eastern part of Graubünden, close to the border with Italy. In the local Romansch, the language unique to Graubünden, Müstair is equivalent to Minster in English – both correspond to the word monastery.
The Monastery Complex
The monastery complex was founded in the 8th Century and is steeped in legend and mystery. According to a well-known legend, Charlemagne was responsible for the founding of the convent. It is said that he was so grateful for his survival after walking away unharmed from a large snowstorm in the area, that he gave instructions for the monastery to be constructed. This complex has only been partially destroyed over the centuries and now has building styles and art treasures from several eras. Nuns have lived in the convent since the 12th century. Convent life, cultivation, the museum and the restoration come together, turning this site into something very special.
Convent Museum
The convent’s museum can be found in the monastery’s fortified Planta Tower (10th century). It holds over 1200 years of art and cultural history within its walls. The Benedictine nuns of Müstair also allow visitors a glimpse inside the convent to see their daily life.
Museum visit
The museum is very atmospheric, giving an authentic peek into the convents past, starting in the cloister, then going through to the vast cellar of the Planta Towerbefore continuing up three floors. A ‘convent within the convent’ is housed in the tower and has living areas, sleeping quarters and prayer areas.
UNESCO World Heritage Site
A deciding factor for listing the complex as a UNESCO World Heritage Site was down to the wonderfully preserved frescos found in the convent church which dates back to the early middle ages. These are considered to be one of the largest and best-preserved fresco cycles around today.
Found in canton Graubünden, the Rhaetian Railway brings together two historic railway lines that cross the Swiss Alps through two passes – Albula and Bernina.
AlbulaPass Line
Opened in 1904, the Albula line in the northwestern part is 67 km long and features an impressive set of structures including 42 tunnels, covered galleries and 144 viaducts and bridges.
Bernina Pass Line
The 61 km Bernina pass line winds its way through 13 tunnels and galleries and over 52 viaducts and bridges.
Achievements
The railway was built to overcome the isolation of settlements in the Central Alps early in the 20th century. Today these two lines are now a single transalpine line.
The complete Rhaetian Line shows outstanding technical, architectural, environmental and civil engineering achievements which have resulted in the railway lines staying in harmony with the natural landscapes they pass through.
This description was sourced by text from whc.unesco.org, under license CC-BY-SA IGO 3.0.
Bernina Express & Glacier Express Panorama Trains
Good to Know: A great opportunity to discover the World Heritage line and visit some incredible landscapes is to travel on theBernina Expresspanorama train. This service runs all year from Chur to Thusis, then along the World Heritage route, through to the Poschiavo Valley with its dramatic alpine scenery, and then on to Tirano, Italy. The Glacier Express runs from Zermatt, through the Rheinschlucht (known as the Grand Canyon of Switzerland), with various stops, then finally down through the Albula Pass – running for 10 months of the year (no service from mid-Oct to mid-Dec).
The line of the Rhaetian railway between Thusis and Tirano (Italy) – World Heritage route.
Getting There
Public Transport
To Thusis: from Chur – 30-35 mins without changes. From Zürich – approx. 2 hrs 10 mins, changing at Chur.
By Car from Chur – 26 km (approx. 22 mins on Autobahn). From Zürich – 144 km (approx. 1 hr 30 mins on Autobahn).
4. Old city of Berne
Bern’s old town status as a World Heritage site is down to its impressive town planning along with the continuous restoration and protection of the medieval structure and buildings.
Bern’s Historical Centre
The city of Bern was built in the 12th Century on a hillside surrounded by the Aare River. It was developed with a special design made up of long rows of buildings, shaped to fit into the curve of the river. 15th-century arcades and 16th-century fountains were added and, in the 18th Century, most of the medieval centre was restored but, luckily, it has retained its original character which includes the many elegant arches that can be found throughout.
Nowadays, the old town of Bern has the longest covered shopping arcade in Europe – great news for rainy days!
The Mighty Bear
You will probably discover the symbol of Bern quite quickly – the mighty bear. It’s found on the canton’s flag, the sides of buildings and in the souvenir shops, in fact, bears have been kept in Bern for hundreds of years, finally moved from the city to Bear Pits on the banks of the Aare river in 1857… This controversial home finally changed in 2009 when a large park was built for them. The much-needed new habitat is designed on several levels and includes a section of the riverbank, leafy green spaces, tunnels and caves for hibernation. You can see them from high up on the Nydegg Bridge (at the end of the old town) or close up from the park. For more information and webcams go to the park’s website here.
Zytglogge (clock tower)
Zytglogge clock tower
This iconic clock tower has been around for centuries and has had many uses, including a prison.
Every hour, on the hour, there is a display of dancing bears, a court jester and a rooster doing their thing on the outside of the clock tower – attracting crowds of tourists to this part of the old town in summer.
Clock Tower Tour
The inside isn’t open for individual visits but it’s possible to do a 1-hour tour to see the inner workings and learn about its past. Public tours don’t run daily and are limited to once a week in winter, so it pays to check out the website and book before going. Good to Know: There are 130 steps to the top but you are rewarded with a view of Bern’s old town, and the Alps (weather permitting).
Getting There
Public Transport
To Bern Main Station: From Basel – 1 hr 5 mins, express trains with no change. Zürich – 1 hr – 1 hr 35 mins, express trains with no change. Lucerne – 1 hr 6 mins – 1 hr 30 mins (dep. on service), no change.
By Car
Central Bern:Basel – 95 km (approx 1 hr 10 mins). Zürich via A1 – 125 km (approx. 1 hr 30 mins). Lucerne via A2 & A1 – 110 km (approx 1 hr 20 mins).
The medieval castles of Bellinzona – Castelgrande, Montebello and Sasso Corbaro – have been listed as a Swiss UNESCO World Heritage since 2000. They are found in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino, south of the Alps and are impossible to miss when passing through. Castelgrande sits on a rocky peak with fortified walls running from the castle, built to protect the ancient town and block passage through the valley. The castle of Montebello was built as part of this fortification, whereas Sasso Corbaro stands alone on another rocky high point.
A bit of history
Bellinzona occupied a strategic position between north and south which is the reason these castles were built in the first place. The Dukes of Milan went to a lot of trouble to bar the Swiss from travelling south into his territory.
Over the centuries, the castles have been reconstructed and restored many times. Evidence has been found that fortifications were built on this site in the 4th Century B.C, however, the three castles and their walls were constructed in the 14th Century.
Good to Know: There was once an Alpine Arc of medieval military architecture comprising of several castles, linked by a wall that once closed off the whole Ticino Valley for the protection of the civilian population. The Swiss Confederates must have been quite a threat for them to go to such lengths. These castles and fortifications are the only remaining visible evidence of this Arc.
Further Information
Bellinzona & Valli website for open times and booking tickets (including information on the Bellinzona Pass and Railway combi ticket – both offer price reductions)- Note: Castelgrande is the only castle open during the winter.
Locations of Bellinzona Train Station and the 3 Castles
The vineyard terraces spread out on the steep slopes above Lake Geneva were originally created during the 11th century by monks. Generations of wine growers have been taking care of them ever since. The original terraces and stone walls that stretch for over 30 km have been carefully preserved, fitting seamlessly into the steep, wide slopes that rise up from the soft blue waters of Lake Geneva.
Vineyardsand seeing the Villages
Known as the Lavaux vineyards, the UNESCO vineyard terraces are found between Lausanne and Montreux and are home to 14 unspoiled villages. Residents of this area have been working together in harmony with the landscape for hundreds of years.
The vineyards benefit from the “three suns” – the sun itself, the sun’s rays reflected by the lake and the warmth stored in the walls of the vineyards.
There are networks of walking and biking trails as well as panorama, express and local train lines that snake their way across the landscape.
Some good ways to experience the area are:
Lavaux UNESCO Vineyard Walk
St. Saphorin village in the Lavaux Region
This 10 km circular walk links the region’s villages of Chexbres, Saint-Saphorin, Rivax and Epesses and can be started from any of the villages’ train stations. For more information go to the Vaud Tourism website which offers both a detailed map and guide to the walk, or you can download the Vaud: Guide – a free app that guides you around the route. The App also offers informative tidbits along the way and doesn’t require an internet connection – GPS is used.
You can hop on/off the regional train line that runs along Lake Geneva, shortening the circuit at Saint-Saphorin, Rivaz or Epesses.
Length and recommended time
Just over 10 km. Allow for around five hours – (walking and stops).
Fitness level and accessibility
Accessible to people with average fitness – the paths are all paved and are pushchair and wheelchair friendly although there are some steep parts.
Lavaux Express
When I think of express, I think of the fast, sleek Eurocity trains that whizz through this region from Geneva to the Valais region and then onwards to Italy.
The Lavaux Express is not that kind of express, instead, it is a small, open tourist ‘train’ with wheels that makes its way around narrow roads up amongst the vines – stopping regularly. During the journey, passengers hear about the region’s history, the vineyards, the characteristics that make it ideal for viticulture, and, of course, this trip offers plenty of spectacular views.
Good to Know: They still run on rainy days by using protective sheets, but the driver can cancel if the weather becomes stormy.
Some possible Excursions
Circular trips lasting 1 hour leave several times a day.
Caveau Train, which is all about wine tasting, visits one of the local vineyards for a 45-minute wine-tasting experience. It runs on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, leaving early evening. The duration is 2 hours. For operating times (2021 times – May to mid-Sept) visit the Lavaux Express website (below).
Autumn market train in October for the Sunday markets in the village of Aran.
For seasonal dates,schedule and reservation (recommended)and FAQ go to the website Lavaux Express.
Regional Trains
The regional train service passes through the towns of Epesses,Rivaz, Saint-Saphorin,Vevey then Vevey to Chexbres offering a great sightseeing alternative. Visit sbb.ch for more information. This website also offers maps for each service – in the timetable page add from/to then click on the departure time. The map link is shown in the This Connection box. It‘s a great way to visualise the villages and train lines.
The blue and yellow trains that service the Vevey to Chexbres section are known as “Le Train des Vignes” – the Wine Trains. These trains link Vevey to Puidoux via Chexbres and run hourly in each direction, taking about 15 minutes.
Good to Know: Vevey, an attractive lakeside town in its own right, was once home to Charlie Chapman. There is now a museum on his former country estate called Chaplin’s World.
By Public Transport:Geneva to Lausanne – Express Trains 35-45 mins/ Region Trains 48 mins. For regional train services from Vevey to the vineyard villages see the Regional Train info above.
By Car: Geneva to Lausanne – 66 km (approx. 55 mins); Bern to Lausanne via Vevey – 100 km
7. La Chaux-de-Fonds / Le Locle, Watchmaking Town Planning
Tucked between the hills north of Neuchâtel, the two towns of La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle really stand out. At first glance, they look a bit too uniform and stark with their grid-like design and uniform sized houses.
However, once you get into the towns themselves, you really see the dedication and craftsmanship that has gone into the construction of the buildings. If you would prefer museums, then visit the Espace de l’Urbanisme Horloger for a brief history of the town or the International Museum of time (Musée International d’Horlogerie) – the largest timekeeping collection in the world.
What’s so special about these two towns
The towns of La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle were reconstructed in the 19th Century solely for the watchmaking industry after both towns were badly damaged by fires. Many of the buildings have a combination of living quarters, workshops and offices.
They have been designated World Heritage sites in recognition of the watch-making industry successfully shaping and preserving the two towns to survive and thrive on only one manufacturing industry.
Some watch-making experiences found in the towns
Free multi-media exhibition about the watchmaking town planning – Espace de l’urbanisme horloger found in La Chaux-de-Fonds. According to the town’s website, this is a good place to start before touring the town.
Tourist train that travels through Le Locle from June to September, with commentary in English, French and German. (Doesn’t run in bad weather).
Musée International D’Horlogerie: The largest timekeeping collection in the world dedicated to the history of clock making with over 4,500 exhibits. Includes clocks, watches and tools from the 16th century.
Unique Open-air art in Le Locle – Exomusée
Artists from around the world have been using Le Locle’s buildings and inner-city spaces as a canvas to display their artwork for a few years. This ‘Urban Art’ project is spreading throughout the town with new pieces added each year. Some are abstract, some realistic, others offer illusions. Many of them are huge, covering the side of multi-story facades.
For more information including images, the street artists and a map with the locations go to the Exomusée website and the Le Locle tourism office in the town hall.
Getting there&Information
Public Transport
From Neuchatel: La Chaux-de-Fonds 27 mins / Le Locle 40 min; Lausanne: Intercity Train – La Chaux-de-Fonds 1 hr 12 mins/ Le Locle 1 hr 25 mins, changing at Neuchâtel; Bern: to Le Locle changing at La Chaux-de-Fonds – 1 hr 20 – 30 mins.; BetweenLa Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle: 9 mins by train.
By Car to La Chaux-de-Fonds (approx.)
From Bern: 1 hour – 68 km via Neuchâtel; Neuchâtel: 20 mins. – 20 km.
Le Locle: 12-20 mins, 9 km
Espacité Tower, La Chaux-de-Fonds; Photo by Christof Sonderegger; ┬®Tourisme neuchatelois_damier
Information Centre
La Chaux-de-Fonds – Tourism Information Centre can be found on the ground floor of the Espacité Tower – the circular tower that is often seen from arial photos of the town. Address: Espacité 1, 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds. 10 minutes walk from La Chaux-du-Fonds train station.
The series of pile dwelling sites are one of the most important archaeological sources for the study of early agrarian societies in Europe between 5,000 and 500 BC. The waterlogged conditions have preserved organic matter, helping with research & study of the Neolithic and Bronze Age history of Europe.
From the neolithic age to the Bronze age (between 4,400 & 750 BC) there were many settlements on the lakeshore and in bogs in the alpine regions. The simple houses were built on the shorelines with raised floors due to the regular flooding and waterlogged ground. A large concentration of these pile dwellings has been discovered on the shorelines of Lakes Neuchâtel, Murten (Morat) and Bielersee (Bienne).
The Laténium covers various stages of human evolution, starting from when Neanderthal man walked the earth, up to the Renaissance time in the middle ages. This archaeological park uses videos, models, sounds and items found by archaeologists in the area. There are also two large exhibits on display – a re-creation of a Bronze-Age House and a Roman flat-bottomed boat.
By visiting the room dedicated to these lake dwellings, you can immerse yourself into the everyday lives of the people that lived in these bronze and neolithic age settlements.
Getting there
The Laténium is located in Hauterive, on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel (3 km from the centre of Neuchâtel).
Public Transport
Train: Neuchâtel Gare to University with the funicular (FUNI). then 8 min bus trip (101) to Hauterive.
Boat: Neuchâtel‘s harbour to Hauterive. Currently free of charge from sprint to autumn (2022) – with return trip free when showing Laténium museum ticket.
By Car
Parking at the Port of Hauterive on the northeastern shore of Lake Neuchâtel – with small charge.
Walking and Bike: Neuchâtel to St-Blaise-Lac on the S5 train (direction Bern, 1 stop), then 20 minute walk along the edge of lake Neuchâtel.
9. The Architectural Work of Le Corbusier
Charles-Edouard Jeanneret-Gris (known as Le Corbusier), architect, town planner, painter and writer, was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds on October 6, 1887.
Corbusier first trained at the town’s school of art in 1902 where he became interested in architecture. He continued to train and learn while travelling around Europe including visits to Paris, Vienna, Berlin and Turkey.
During the 1920s, he became one of the most influential architects and urban planners of his century. In 1957 he was made a citizen of honour in his hometown, La Chaux-de-Fonds. If you want to discover Le Corbusier’s work pop into the information centre in La Chaux-de-Fonds for a guide to the locations of his first architectural works. In particular, the Villa Schwob or Turkish Villa, the Villa Jeanneret-Perret or White House (villa built for his parents) and the Villa Favre-Jacot in Le Locle all show different styles and designs he picked up when travelling around Europe.
The King of the concrete highrise
His theories lay the foundation for the Bauhaus Movement which was responsible for a burst of creativity that spread to places like Antwerp, Algiers, Stuttgart and Rio de Janeiro.
This group of architects are the main players behind the growth of giant concrete office blocks and high-rise apartments that can be seen on the horizons of many cities.
Later in his career, Corbusier moved to a more sculptural type of architecture. One of his last projects was the Carpenter Center at Harvard University.
Le Corbusier’s Failing
Unfortunately, as a strong supporter of far-right politics, Le Corbusier had a darker side. This has recently been acknowledged with several books published on his life and character. Two of the more critical books are: Le Corbusier, a cold vision of the world, by Marc Perelman and Un Corbusier, by Francois Chaslin.
Some Locations of Le Corbusier’s Workin Switzerland
Maison Blanche – Le Chaux-de-Fonds, built for his parents in 1912.
Anatole Schwob House (Turkish Villa) on at Rue du Doubs 167, La-Chaux-de-Fonds (1916–1918)
Unesco World Heritage Tectonic Arena Sardona – This area is as impressive as the name suggests. You can witness the incredible power and monumental forces that nature is capable of. Found in the cantonal border areas of Saint Gallen, Glarus & Graubünden, the Arena extends over more than 300 square kilometres. You can either do a tour with an expert or experience this area independently – go to unesco-sardona.ch for information.
The Glarus Overthrust
The Tectonic arena was formed by older rock from 250-300 million years ago being thrust up over much younger rock (35-50 million years ago). These rock formations, called the “Glarus overthrust”, demonstrate the power and movement of plate tectonics.
Interactive map created by unesco-sardona.ch
This is a great map to get an idea of the area and where you can go to learn more and view the arena’s dramatic scenery. The
interesting sights and viewpoints
geographic operations in the region
Points of interest reached by foot
The descriptions are all in german (Blick translates as View) however, they do have links to various pages and hikes – some may also need translating.
Most of the walks with good vantage points are more challenging so it is better to consult the information centres first before attempting them.
Tschinglen Cable Car – Elm
A great way to get straight to the heart of the arena!! The Tschinglen Gondola is open from Mid May to Mid October. Here is alink to the website (in german).
The Pizol 5-Lake Hike and Panorama walk
A much loved and popular Swiss excursion is the wonderful Pizol 5-lakes hike (done and loved it), on the western side of the Arena. The trail leads through a high plateau (2222 – 2507 metres) past 5 crystal-clear mountain lakes, with views as far away as Lake Constance in the northeast. The trail is open from July – Oct, although in winter it is possible to do the shorter Panorama trail as long as the Pizol cable cars and chair lifts are running. The starting point is from the top of the Wangs/Furt Gaffia cable car and chair lift.
Getting There and Information:
The interactive map above shows that ‘getting there’ covers a huge area with many possibilities.
A great source for hiking and sightseeing can be found on the UNESCO Sardona website’s page on top walks.
Various Information Centres are available to orientate you –
Tectonic Visitors Centre Glarus (closest commute from Zürich):
Zürich – GlarusTrain: 1 hr 3 mins, no changes. Car: 1 hr 10 mins (70 km)
Tectonic Visitors Pavillon Segneshütte – Flims (closest commute from Chur):
Chur – FlimsBus: – 35 – 50 mins by bus. Car: 1 hr 10 mins (70 km) – Once in Flims, take the Foppa cable car – go to the Flims/Laax/Falera website for operation times and prices.
For the Tschinglen Cable Car (mid May – mid Oct):
Zürich – Schwanden – ElmTrain: 2 hrs (change at Ziegelbrücke and Schwanden). In Elm get off at Bus Stop “Bahnhof“. Then follow the signs for 1,2 km to the valley station of the Tschinglenbahn (cable car). Car: 1 hr 30 mins
For the Pizol 5-lakes walk:
Zürich – Wangs (valley station) by train – 1 hour 10 mins, changing at Sargans.
Wangs to Pizol Hütte (2227m), 8-seater gondola and 4-seater chair lift Wangs – Furt – Gaffia – Pizolhütte (1 hour). or 8-seater gondola and 4-seater chair lift Bad Ragaz – Pardiel – Laufböden (1 hour). Round-trip ticket for the 5-lake walk available from Pizol railway. For opening hours, and more info on the walk go to the Pizol areas officialwebsite.
The pavilion is best reached via the Naraus mountain station with a 75 minutes hike. A shuttle and the Grauberg cable car can be used instead of walking.
The wooded mountain of Monte San Giorgio beside Lake Lugano is regarded as the best fossil record of marine life from the Triassic Period (245–230 million years ago), recording life in a tropical lagoon environment with different kinds of marine life flourishing, including reptiles and fish. Because the lagoon was near land, the remains include land-based fossils of reptiles, insects and plants, resulting in an extremely rich source of fossils.
UNESCO World Heritage Description, available under license CC-BY-SA IGO 3.0
Fossil Museum of Monte San Giorgio Meride, Ticino
The Museum of Fossils, found at the southern end of Monte San Giorgio, was open to the public in 2012 with modern and eye-catching displays spread over four floors. This is the best place to find fossils from the mountain and get a glimpse of what life was like a few hundred million years ago. Local architect – Mario Botta designed the museum and was also responsible for designing some astounding creations found around the world.
Made up of fossilized animals and plants from Monte San Giorgio, the exhibits include fish and reptiles from 240 million years ago – when the area was a subtropical sea basin. The careful preservation of the skeletons has made this mountain world-famous for its natural heritage.
Panorama terrace in Val Mara @FMSG
Trails around the mountain
A trail around the mountain has information panels and provides views of the rocks and excavations where fossils have been found.
Percorso Murat Pelit is a new 3.7 km trail for people with motor disabilities. Ticino-born Murat Pelit is a member of the Swiss Paralympic ski team amongst other achievements. His association, Ti-Rex Sport in conjunction with Medrisiotto Turismo, opened up a route for handbikes on Monte San Giorgio in May 2021.
The trail winds through woodland and has been tailored for use by three-wheeled mountain bikes which can be operated by hand. The circular tour departs from the Hotel Serpiano where the special bikes are also available for hire. This special trail and the bikes can be used by anyone interested in having a go.
Getting Around and Information:
By Public Transport: from Lugano – 45 minutes with 1 change; from Zürich – 1 hr 55 mins (through the Gotthard Base Tunnel).
By Car: from Lugano – 26 km, approx. 30 mins drive over Lake Lugano’s bridge at Melide; from Zürich to Lugano – 200 km
3. Swiss Alps – Jungfrau Aletsch Glacier
Aletsch Glacier, as seen from the southern edge, canton Valais
This part of the European Alps, one of the most spectacular mountain landscapes in the world, is home to well-known mountains such as Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. The Aletsch glacier is part of this landscape, taking up 824 km² of space close to the mountain’s peaks, it slowly edging its way from one side of the alps to another. According to the UNESCO World Heritage website, it is the largest glacier in Eurasia and is considered a natural wonder because of its beauty and the information it contains on the formation of mountains and glaciers. This Jungfrau-Aletsch website is great for facts and figures, information and videos.
Some of thereasons for the UNESCO classification:
The area is home to a wide range of alpine and sub-alpine habitats.
Ecosystems have evolved without significant human intervention.
Almost all of the area is under some form of legal protection.
It plays an important role in the study of climate change.
How to view the Aletsch Glacier
From the Bernese Oberland region –
Getting There and Tickets
Take the train from Interlaken Ost station to Lauterbrunnen or Grindelwald, then the rack railway up to Kleine Scheidegg. This is where the Jungfrau train will chug around the mountain, then through the mountain to Jungfraujoch.
Good to Know: Jungfraujoch is the highest railway station in Europe at 3,454 metres.
From the southern side – Valais
The chair lifts and cable cars called – Riederalp, Bettmeralp and Fiescheralp can be reached from the Rhône Valley. From there they go to car-free villages and finally up to the viewing platforms, panorama walks and hiking tracks close to the glacier. See my own experience of a short hike by visiting – How to Experience the Awe-Inspiring Aletsch Glacier- My Valais Experience.
Getting to the cable cars valley stations – Mörel, Betten and Fiesch
Public Transport
Bern to Brig : 1 hour, 6 mins, on intercity trains via Thun, Spiez, the Lötschberg basis tunnel and Visp, then change for trains or buses to Mörel, Betten or Fiesch for cable car/chair lift services up to the glacier.
By Car
Sierre to Betten: 52 km: Bern to Betten, via Thun and Spiez: 125 km, includes car transportation train from Kandersteg through the Lötschberg basis tunnel.
You often hear about traditional craftmanship and old manual skills dying out or being replaced by modern practices. Luckily Switzerland hasn’t fully adopted a modern way of life. In fact, many of the small villages, towns and farms in Switzerland not only continue to use the old traditions, but you will find the local communities working hard to promote these traditions and skills through things like workshops, museums and tourism to ensure the knowledge is kept well and truly alive.
From Appenzell in the west to Ticino and Valais in the south, here are some places worth visiting for an authentic Swiss experience.
Appenzellerland – Local crafts and farming traditions
This whole region oozes tradition and sustainability with local produce, local crafts and traditional practices.
. Photo by Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
A special tradition that is part of the lives of the people here is the annual processions of cattle, that move between the villages and the local pastures.
Each person, cow, goat and bell has its part to play. The white goats, guided by children, lead the way. Next in line are the cows, their huge bells and the herdsmen. Finally, the horse and cart carrying supplies are found at the end. There is music, bell chimes, colour and tradition all woven into each procession.
See my Appenzell page for more details and below for the Urnäsch village traditional farmers market that coincides with the processions.
Villages and their traditions
Photo by Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
Many villages spread around the rolling hills of canton Appenzell are highly self-reliant, with the local farmers, craftspeople and artisans preserving and using the old techniques and traditional way of life. This makes farming a tough, very physical job on the steep hilly farms, however, the communities don’t just work hard together, they also celebrate hard together.
Silvesterchlausen is a special New Years Celebration that goes back centuries. It takes place on the 13th of January each year throughout the region and starts early in the morning, going through until midnight. Locals dress up as characters called ‘Silvesterchläuse Mummers’. The Urnäsch Mummers wear extremely ornate headgear (shown above). According to the Appenzell Tourism Website, these are made by hand over “hundreds of hours”.
Workshops are popular with the locals. In Urnäsch it is possible to:
Make Lanterns from sheets of iron by welding and flame cutting
Hand-craft the wooden facades of houses from local trees – hand tools are used for the complete process.
Urnäsch Village Barbara Steinemann, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Around mid-September each year, the farmers’ market, centrally located at Kronenplatz in Urnäsch offers more than 50 stalls full of local produce from farming families.
There are food stalls, entertainment, and pig races and traditional music played during the day.
In the morning, the alpine descents arrive in the village of Urnäsch, with the herdsmen moving through the village between about 9 a.m. and 1 p.m.
A shuttle bus runs from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. to the outdoor parking spaces on Appenzellerstrasse and at the Furt work station.
The Cheese Dairy inStein
The local cheese
Traditional craftsmanship and practices are used in many of the small cheese dairies in Appenzell.
Cheese-making can be experienced at the small and modern Appenzell Schaukäserei (show cheese dairy) – found deep in the green rolling hills of Appenzell Ausserrhoden, in a small village called Stein – A link to their new website is here. The village of Stein is known as the pearl of Appenzellerland with houses mostly from the 18th century in the centre.
This is a small exhibition, redesigned to showcase the traditions and processes used for making the different types of cheese from this area.
They offer:
Self-guided tours with animated film
cheese tasting & shop
A look at the living traditions and customes in Appenzell Ausserrhoden
A terrace to watch part of the cheese-making process
Restaurant
Next door: Appenzeller Folklore Museum to experience the herdsmen’s culture
Farmers from the region bring fresh and warm milk to one of the 50 authorized cheese dairies. Around 700 years of artisan traditions go into the making of Appenzeller® cheese.
It is possible to walk through the countryside from the cheese dairy. There is a signpost by the carpark and from there it is possible to wander around the hills and small farms (sometimes directly past the front door).
There are plenty of yellow benches found along the paths and roads. The views include:
the Alpstein mountains
Lake Constance
villages ( Stein is in this photo)
forests
traditional farmhouses
and, of course, cheese dairies
Getting to Urnäsch and Stein
To Schaukäserei in Stein:
Public Transport: Train/Bus: From St. Gallen – 18/20 minutes. Car:From Appenzell – 15 minutes; From St. Gallen – 15 mins.
To Urnäsch:
Public Transport: : Train: From St. Gallen, changing at Herisau – 30-40 mins, half-hourly;From Appenzell – 16 mins. Car: From Appenzell – 15 mins; From St. Gallen – approx. 30 mins.
Further Information
Appenzell Schaukäserei (cheese dairy):
Open 364 days from 9am – 5pm. Cheese-making daily until 3pm.
The story of the Zinal and Ayer hamlets in Val d’Anniviers
The area around the small village of Zinal (1670 m) was once occupied by small hamlets that were known as village-mayen – meaning they were only occupied seasonally. As far back as the 16th century, the locals would move from the mountains to the Rhône valley several times a year travelling either on foot or with carts pulled by mules. These people must have been pretty tough and rugged individuals!
In early spring they would go to Sierre to do work in the vineyards and gardens, going back in autumn to harvest the grapes.
In summer they would travel back up to the hamlets to tend to the livestock, bringing them up to the high altitude pastures and preparing hay then in Winter they would make their way back down with the livestock to Ayer to Zinal, feeding the animals the hay, cut in summer.
My guess is – at this stage, they would then hide away in the quiet valley and wrap up warm until spring. If they had snow like this who could blame them…
This lifestyle changed with the coming of tourists in the 19th Century, attracted by the natural environment and the staggering peaks of the Imperial Crown (five peaks over 4,000 m). At this time a couple of large hotels were built to accommodate the growing numbers of tourists.
These days it is possible to hike up to the original pastures and visit the traditional farm buildings that have been preserved to showcase the historical stories of this area.
Within the villages, many of the original farmhouses, community buildings and granaries have also been lovingly restored and are being re-used by the community and for tourism.
Héren cattle were part of the traditional way of life for the village-mayen people. They have certain characteristics that link them back to the wild auroch cattle that used to roam free throughout the European forests and grasslands. Their name originates from the Val d’Hérens region, west of Val d’Anniviers but they are also called fighting cows due to the fact that they designate the herd leader by fighting and locking horns. This habit has now become a spectator sport in the mountains (it is rare for the cows to become injured). More information can be found here.
The Désalpe practice of bringing the livestock up to the alpine pastures in summer and down in winter is also a celebration (as with Appenzell), by processions through the towns which include bringing down the cheese. The cows and sheep are lovingly decorated with flowers. Spectators line the streets and market stalls sell local produce.
Raclette Cheese
I encountered this ‘smelly cheese’ when we first moved to Switzerland in December 2004, or should I say, my nose first encountered it … If you have been to a Swiss Christmas market you should know what I mean.
This strong smell is from the traditional Raclette dish. The Christmas or winter markets always have a few Raclette stalls with special contraptions that melts the top layer of large chunks of cheese. This melted part is scraped off then spread over small potatoes. Some spices are sprinkled on and some mini pickles added and then the cardboard plate is handed out to the eager punters – often along with a glass of Gluhwein (mulled wine).
At first, I would give these stalls a wide berth but after tasting this cheese and getting used to the smell, I would also be one of the eager punters balancing my cheesy potato on a cardboard plate, trying to find a place to stand before burning my hand on my Gluhwein.
Raclette originates from the Valais (Wallis) region and is said to be over 400 years old. In 1812, there was mention of it as a tradition in the Val D’Anniviers region (home to Zinal. Ayer and Grimentz villages) – where sumptuous feasts would begin and close with roasted cheese (“fromage rôti”). This information is fromttmsa.ch which has a section dedicated to Raclette
Local Products found in Valais
There are plenty of ways to enjoy the local food and wine from the region. You can:
Make your own in a bread-making barn in Grimentz or
Visit the wine cellars – for a wine tasting experience – some are open for visits all year round (Good for a break from skiing).
Try a Fondue picnic. The Rando Fondue kit can be picked up from the villages of Chandolin, St-Luc, Zinal, Ayer or Grimentz.finding-the-charming-village-of-grimentz-and-the-val-danniviers-formidable-mountain-roads
Visiting the area
By Bus: Sierre – Ayers/Zinal, changing at Vissoie, approx. 45/60 mins Car: Sierre – Zinal approx. 40 mins. See sbb.ch for up-to-date info.
While in the region: In canton Valais there are several attractive villages that are car free with amazing sights and surroundings. I have listed them below.
Ticino – Scudellate – the revival of a mountain hamlet – Albergo Diffuso
Muggio Valley
Valle di Muggio – Turro-Copyright Ticino Turismo – Foto Nicola Demaldi
The traditional manufacturing processes and culinary history of the local food are important to the small towns found in this very remote valley of Ticino.
It is easy to visit this valley without your car. With the opening of the Gotthard Base Tunnel in December 2020, it is now a lot quicker to travel from northern Switzerland to the Muggio Valley by train and bus.
It takes around 3 hours 30 mins from Zürich main station by train & bus, to arrive in the small village of Scudellate at the far end of the valley. Admittedly you will need to make 4 changes to do this… To get to the towns of Muggio & Cabbio – considered two of the most attractive villages in Switzerland – it is 3 hours and 3 changes.
The Muggio Valley offers:
The 700 year old Bruzella mill (between Bruzella and Cabbio) is still in operation. This mill has an old craft workshop, produces polenta and uses rare red maize native to Ticino.
The village of Muggio has buildings made of local stone and Cabbio has lovely historical fountains.
Muggio has views of the terraced slopes across the valley.
At the end of Muggio valley lies the small village of Scudellate – with only 20 inhabitants.
A special project to preserve this village has been made possible because of the vision and work of a local man called Oscar Piffaretti.
The project opens up the well-preserved and remote villageof Scudellate, allowing tourists to experience the living traditions and local produce. The project is called Albergo Diffuso which translates as a scattered hotel and has been funded by, amongst other organisations, Swiss Mountain Aid. Additionally, there is another village in Ticino that has been transformed into an Albergo Diffuso, called Corippo in the Verzasca Valley.
The Scudellate village will offer:
Refurbished buildings including: – The pretty Osteria Manciana which is a mini-hotel with dining rooms, the old schoolhouse has also been converted to accommodation and the ForesteriaB&B with one other building being added on the Alpe Caviano.
A shop will be added to the Osteria selling local produce
Events will be offered such as cooking courses, wine tasting, and cultural excursions.
The refurbishments and building is being done in stages (21/22/23). For more information gohere.
Getting There
Public Transport from Zürich:
EC train: (Eurocity) Zürich – Lugano; S-Train Lugano – Mendrisio; Postbus Mendrisio – Morbio; Postbus Morbio – Cabbio. This connection takes 3 hours. Note: There are also other connections – see sbb.ch.
Public Transport from Locarno:
Locarno – Mendrisio 45-55 mins then postbus as above.
Driving from Zürich:
From central Zürich – Scudellate approx. 3 hrs 30 mins, via Gotthard Tunnel (can be much longer as the Gotthard Tunnel is notorious for traffic jams).
I recently visited the remote village of Grimentz in the Val d’Anniviers while staying in Sierre in the Rhône Valley.
Although the Val d’Anniviers is very accessible from Sierre (bus and car, not train), it is still a nerve-tingling road trip.
I decided to travel by bus, letting someone else worry about the switchbacks and narrow roads.
Road Trip – the adventure
I had only glanced briefly at the road map before doing this journey, thinking that the bus would take me down the valley, then zig-zag for a short while before arriving in Grimentz. I was wrong. If you look closely at a map, you will see that the zig-zagging starts early, then the road cuts into the side of the steep mountains – very high up.
The buses find it particularly tricky as they often need to use both sides of the road to negotiate these switchbacks. They will alert oncoming traffic in the nicest possible way. If you have been on any mountain road on a post bus you will know what I mean. They toot the horn which has a very distinctive & loud sing-song tune. On this particular journey, it can be heard regularly – after a few tight corners, the sing-song horn started to sound suspiciously like brace, brace, brace!
Vissoie Village Centre, Photo by A.Leggett
I was sitting beside the window closest to the drop, having a look now and then, only to see … nothing except the valley below. What amazed me was how calm all the other passengers seemed. Now and then I would frantically look around, hoping to share my obvious nervous energy with others. No one even looked at me, in fact, most of the passengers were chatting calmly or nodding off. I assumed they were locals. Their relaxed states did help calm me somewhat.
Vissoie (1204 m) is located around the centre of the valley and during the trip, the valley floor gradually gains altitude and the road’s curves become more gentle. By the time we arrived the sing-song horn was no longer needed and I had regained my composure.
From Vissoie the road splits in several directions. One way is towards my destination, Grimentz (1572 m) – higher on the southwest side of the valley; or the route to Ayer (1475 m) and Zinal (1675 m) on the southeast side. Another road zig-zags eastward to St-Luc (1,655 m). Due to Vissoie’s geographical location, this is a stage in the trip when passengers need to change buses. When I arrived there was a flurry of people with backpacks and walking poles, moving from one bright yellow bus to another, ready to continue their journey further along the valley.
After all the twists and turns of the road trip, Vissoie feels quite remote but at the same time, it has the look of a resort-style alpine village. At this point, I was looking longingly at the terraced restaurants and chalet-style cafés decorated with bright red geraniums, wanting to stop for a while before moving on, but, of course, Swiss public transport runs like clockwork and my next bus was ready to leave, with or without me.
The road from Vissoie to Grimentz passes through hills and steep meadows rather than dramatic cliffs with beautiful views down the valley.
All in all, it was an amazing experience with unbelievable views – and despite my obvious nervousness, the drivers are experts, and the roads are well maintained and safe.
The Rustic Historical Buildings and some of their Stories
This picturesque village, filled with geraniums in summer, is considered to be one of the most traditional villages of Valais. This is down to the authenticity of its centre. Many of the buildings have been incredibly well preserved with the narrow streets, alleyways and courtyards still feeling like they would have hundreds of years ago.
Traditionally this valley was home to nomadic inhabitants who lived for part of the year in the Rhône Valley. Nowadays fewer people live this way although, in summer, some residence move down to the valley to work in the vineyards.
When visiting the information centre, it is possible to purchase a guide booklet that has a simple numbered map that showing and explaining places of interest in the town.
These are some of the stories from this village:
Looking towards the main square and Bourgeoisie house
One of the oldest houses in Grimentz, found at the far end of this street, was built between 1480 and 1550. This house belonged to the “Bourgeoisie”. The exclusive membership included priority access to services like the mill and sawmill. Being a member was also a way of contributing to the community.
In 1873 a cross was erected to protect the village against fire and the elements.
The mill was understandably an important part of all the villages in this region – since it played a big part in keeping the locals fed. In Grimentz its location also housed the sawmill, bread oven, bread room and slaughterhouse.
There are three animated fountains in the village. The mill worker fountain, a fountain representing fighting Héren cows and the fountain of the baker.
A landslide in 1999 caused both the mill and the original fountain of the baker to be destroyed. The mill was then built with the original materials and the baker’s fountain was also reconstructed.
The Bread House offers tourists the opportunity to make bread in the original bread room every week. Winter: from mid-December to mid-April; Summer: from the beginning of July to the end of October. A notice on the door advises that on the days of bread making there will be smoke coming out of the building and not to be alarmed.
Originally the bread house was where families would come to make bread for the season – four times a year. The bread would, of course, harden over time but families simply cut it with an axe and soaked it in milk, coffee or soup. Perhaps we could learn a thing or two from this.
The houses in the old town mostly date from the 17th and 18th centuries. They are all made of larch which is darkened with time.
The original storehouses and granaries can be seen throughout the old town streets. They date from the 17th century. The stilts are to prevent rodents from getting in and to keep the provisions dry.
Things like dried meat, bread and flour were kept here.
Glacier Wine (Vin du Glacier)
I remember someone telling me that if you like the wine, then it is a good one… I am really curious as to how this particular wine tastes. Hint Hint.
To explain the principle behind Vin du Glacier wine, I have quoted the explanation from the Val d’Anniviers website:
“The principle of the Vin du Glacier is simple: the barrels are never emptied. Every year new wine is added to the old. For example :
– The wine in a barrel from 1888 will be blended with one from 1886 – Wine from 1934 will top up the 1888 barrel – Wine from 1969 will be used to top up the 1934 barrel and will in turn receive new wine in later years
The “Vin du Glacier” cannot be bought. It can only be savoured in the cellars of Anniviers, drawn directly from the barrel.
The cellar of the Maison Bourgeoisiale (ancient Community House) houses among others the famous Bishop’s Barrel. The wine in this larch-wood barrel dates from 1886. Once destined to the Bishop, it is served nowadays to VIP guests on special occasions.“
Quote from https://www.valdanniviers.ch/en/glacier-guided-tour-house-bourgeoisie-grimentz-960.html
It is possible to taste the Vin du Glacier wine while visiting Grimentz. (Minimum of 4 people and the language is French). Currently, it is limited to specific dates, weekly, on Mondays at 5 pm. Therefore it is best to arrange any wine tasting at the Grimentz Tourism office or Val d’Anniviers website.
Alpage de la Lée ( La Lée Alpine Pastures)is in a far corner of the Val d’Anniviers
Right at the end of the valley, there are around 800 hectares of pastures in the Alpage de la Lée area. They are spread over different levels from the Plats de la Lée up to the Zinal glacier and between the Navisence River in the valley and themountain peaks high above the valley on the west side.
In the area known as Le Vichiesso, a former alpine pasture, you will find a tsigière (alpine chalet) reconstructed in the traditional style, (a cheesestoreroom can be visited on request). Vichiesso pastures and buildings give an idea of life on the alpine pastures in the past.
Information panels can be found leading up toPetit Mountet mountain hut(2142 m) – open for eating and sleeping from June to October. There are some more traditional huts on the further up.
To get there see my orientation & info tab
Video by Cabane du Petit Mountet – Val d’Anniviers
Bisse des Sarrisins (Irrigation channels of the Saracens)
It is believed that Saracens built the irrigation channel, however, this has never been proven. They are estimated to have been built between 1415 and 1513 when the channel’s source was at a Moulinet (downstream from Pinsec).
The Bisse des Sarrisins irrigation channel is 10 km long and was used for watering livestock, irrigating the pastures and operating sawmills and mills.
Restored in the early 2000s, the Bisse des Sarrasins path is now accessible to hikers. It connects Pinsec to Vercorin and can also be reached from the village of Fang.
You will need a good head for heights in various parts on various parts of this trail.
Useful information
Season for hiking: from May to November
Duration: Approx. 3 hours
Includes: 17 educational panes along the route
Important
This mountain route is medium difficulty
It should only be attempted in dry weather
You will need a head for heights in some places
It’s each person’s responsibility to look for any changes to conditions or the roads/track before doing it.
Below is a link for more information on Bisse des Saracens and other hikes:
This Val D’Anniviers page gives details on popular trails including the Bisse des Saracens hike and hikes to alpine lakes and alpine huts.
I
Visiting the Mills
The Grimentz mills date back to 1716. They were renovated in the early 1970s, and a vertical waterwheel was installed on the south façade to recreate a working site.
As mentioned on the village tab, the mill was refurbished in the traditional style, with millstones and a horizontal blade drive system, after part of it was badly damaged in May 1999
The Saint-Luc mills (Les Moulins Saint-Luc) can be found near Saint-Luc, down at the Torrent des Moulins river. These mills were built in the 16th century and renovated in 1986. On the site of the mills, you will find a corn mill, barley and nut press, 2 rye and wheat mills, a cloth mill, and the miller’s house. See the local tourism office for opening times
To get there and map see my orientation & info tab
Winter in Vissoie Village as seen from St Luc
In the past, the steep elevation of the mountains in this part of Valais caused the region to become isolated. This resulted in the formation of some unique regional dialects. Although the local population still use these dialects, they also speak standard French and German.
Interesting Fact:
The western part of the canton is mostly French-speaking (Valais) and the eastern part (Wallis) is mostly German-speaking. The mountain ridges between Val d’Anniviers and the Turtmanntal valley are considered the imaginary line or “Röstigraben” that separates the two. The clue is in the names of the valleys – Tal is German, Val is French.
See Below for Transport Information
Places mentioned in this post are displayed on the map
Transport Information
Buses leave regularly from Sierre to Vissoie (change here for connections to further down the valley, or across to St Luc). See sbb.ch for timetable and route information.
Main Routes
Sierre – Vercorin
Sierre – Vissoie
Vissoie – St-Luc
Vissoie – Grimentz
Vissoie – Grimentz – Lac de Moiry
Vissoie – (stops at Ayer) – Zinal
Cable Cars, Gondolas, chairlifts and St Luc’s Funicular
On the trail between Moosfluh & Hohfluh viewing platforms. Photo by A.Leggett
The Great Aletsch Glacier – A UNESCO World Heritage Site
In 2001, the Aletsch Glacier & Jungfrau-Aletsch Protected Area was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site.
The Aletsch Glacier is over 20km long and the largest glacier in the Alps – however, sadly, it is rapidly receeding. Pro Natura (A Swiss nature & environment organisation) reports that this impressive glacier is retreating by up to 50m in length each year as well as shrinking at the edges.
There are four viewing platforms to see the Glacier. They give brilliant views of the glacier and a 360-degree view of mountains. It is possible (depending on the platform/area) to see Aletschhorn, Matterhorn, Jungfrau, Mönch, Eiger, Dom & Weissmies mountains.
This hike takes you along a trail that mostly follows the ridgeway between Moosfluh to Riederfurka. You walk through a landscape of boulders and stones carpeted with alpine plants and moss – some very rare. After passing the Hohfluh chairlift the landscape becomes softer with trees dotted around and a few small ponds.
The whole walk is stunning, with almost constant views of the Aletsch Glacier and the massive mountains on the other side.
Gondolas from Mörel
When I did this trip I was staying in Kandersteg, in a valley south of Interlaken. I couldn’t believe how easy it was to get to the Aletsch Arena gondolas considering there are huge mountains between Kandersteg and the Rhône Valley. The solution: a simple train trip through a long tunnel, a change at Brig and a 10-minute bus trip to the Mörel (Riederalpbahn) stop. I love the Swiss transport system!
The bus stop is right outside the Riederalp Mitte gondola valley station in Mörel. This gondola goes up to Riederalp Village, then the next ride – Gletscherbahn Moosfluh is within walking distance.
When reaching the top of the Moosfluh gondola (2,333 m)you are surrounded by an incredible rocky alpine landscape, and, like the icing on the cake – the view of the Aletsch Glacier and craggy mountains just stuns. For me, this was a definite WOW moment. I couldn’t figure out why everyone around me was just calmy walking around – I felt like jumping up and down and saying, ‘Are you Serious’!
The trail splits and joins up again for most of the hike. You can normally choose which path you want to take as they all end up at the same place. The yellow signposts indicate when the path leads to a different route so it is important to stop and look at the signs before continuing. Also, as I found out, there are often plenty of seasoned hikers who are happy to help point you in the right direction.
Hohfluh lookout Photo by A.Leggett
If you want to stop the hike here and use the Hohfluh chairlift, I would recommend checking out its seasonal operating times as the summer season is quite short (see the Practical Information tababove).
From the Hohfluh chairlift, the landscape becomes greener with trees dotted around, offering a bit of shade. The path then goes away from the glacier, winding slightly downhill to the Riederfurka area.
The ancient Aletsch forest is home to the oldest trees in Switzerland – according to the Pro Natura Centre Aletsch which is found at Riederfurka. There are hiking trails through the forest from various points along this route.
The Riederfurka area has facilities – restaurants and self-service options. There is also the informative Pro Natura Centre (The building that looks a bit like a castle) with information on the glacier, flora & fauna – including the ancient forest – and the nature protection area. From Riederfurka it is a downhill walk to the village of Riederalp andthe Riederallp West gondola station.
Riederalp West gondola
At the end of the walk, Riederalp village looked very inviting as somewhere to stop for a while. However, I needed to get back down and figure out where my accommodation was in Sierre.
Hiking around here is truly amazing – I would definitely recommend it but keep an eye on busy times – school holidays, weekends etc. as the Aletsch Arena is popular – as you would expect.
Map and details of my walk in the Aletsch Arena
Viewing areas – from East to West
Eggishorn is the highest viewing area in the Aletsch Arena (2,869m). It offers a 20km view of the Aletsch Glacier plus it is possible to view Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau on a clear day.
Bettmerhorn (2,647 m). Apart from the viewing platform, there is a Glacier World Bettmerhorn multimedia exhibition. Bettmerhorn viewing platform is barrier-free
Moosfluh (2,333 m) & Hohfluh are reasonably close together and there is a stunning panorama hike between the two. Moosfluh offers a higher viewpoint of the glacier when looking one way, and the squiggly hiking trails can clearly be seen when looking towards the west. This platform is about 100 metres from the cable car.
HohFluh viewing point is where you have one of the best views of the glacier’s curves and also the forest nature reserve that slopes downwards toward the glacier.
Some public transport information for travelling up to the Aletsch Glacier, fromMörel, Betten & Fiesch in the Rhône Valley
Public Transport (2021) – please check below for operating times& sbb.ch for times & stops.
Trains operate from:
Visp, end station Andermatt & Brig, end station Fiesh (via Betten)
Buses operate from:
Brig, end station Fiesch
Regular connections:
Sion and Sierre in the west and Bern, Spiez & Kandersteg in the north
Gondola & Cable car connections & operating times
Mörel to Moosfluh lookout and trails
1. Take Riederalp Mitte gondola to Riederalp. 2. Walk to Gletscherbahn Moosfluh, (a combination of gondolas & chairs in winter but only gondolas in summer).
Mörel to Hohfluh lookout and trails
1. Take the Riederalp Mitte or Riederalp West gondolas to Riederalp. 2. Walk to Hohfluh chairlift. (limited operating times, see below).
Betten to Bettmerhorn lookout and trails
1. Take the Bettmeralp cable car to Bettmeralp. 2. 15 minute walk to Bettmerhorn gondola. 3. Take the Bettmerhorn gondola.
Fiesch to Eggishorn lookout and trails
1. Take the Fiesch gondola to Fiescheralp. 2. Take the Fiescheralp gondola to Eggishorn.
The Seasonal Operating Times 2021 (for up-to-date info go to either aletscharena.ch or sbb.ch):
Summer/Autumn 2021
5. June 2021 until 24. October 2021
Riederalp (Chair Lift) – Hohfluh 3. July until 15. August 2021
Riederalp (Gondola) – Moosfluh 5. June until 24. October 2021
Bettmeralp – Bettmerhorn 5 June until 24 October 2021
Fiescheralp – Eggishorn 5 June until 24 October 2021
Bad Ragaz is a thermal resort surrounded by water. You can hear the Tamina river roaring through the town, making its way from deep inside the Tamina Gorge. Waterfalls feed the river as it carves its way through the rugged Tamina valley, to finally pour into the powerful Rhein. Meanwhile, the town’s elegantly designed fountains bubble away softly and the healing waters of the Tamina Thermal Baths gently soothe with their hot pools, massaging jets and steam rooms.
My first visit to Bad Ragaz and Termina Thermal Baths was a couple of years ago. A friend and I were browsing through Switzerland’s public transport website (sbb.ch) for relaxing day trip ideas. They offer combi deals – transport + activity or experience at discounted prices.
We found a good spa deal and neither of us had visited Bad Ragaz before, so off we went. We had a nice relaxing time and I recommend both the town and the spa for a place to recharge your batteries.
The things I thought made this day spa experience special were:
The mountain views from the outdoor pool.
The steam room – outside the sauna area (where you can keep on your bathing suit)
The opportunity to join in a mineral salt experience – which includes being handed your mineral salts
The beautifully designed building with huge oval windows.
The large amount of jets – in the large indoor and outside pool.
… and of course, a relaxing walk through the resort’s lovely town then a coffee or spritzer at a cafe before the train trip home. This definitely adds to the experience.
Bus & hike or drive to the historic settlement of Sankt Martin, Pfäfers at the edge of an alpine reservoir – also found in the Sardona Tectonic Arena.
Scientists are still unsure about the origins of Tamina’s thermal water. It’s presumed that the waters originate from the Tödi region in canton Glarus, seeping down about 1,000 metres underground. This causes the water to warm and, after about 10 years, it gradually rises through crevasses into the gorge. The mineral water temperature is a constant 36.5 Celsius at the point it emerges, and is soft and free from bacteria. This Grand Resort Bad Ragaz video explains it all perfectly:
There have been thermal baths here since the 16th Century. A museum and information about the story of the baths and the thermal waters can be found at the Altes Bad Pfäfers (old Pfäfers baths) and inside the gorge.
After leaving the town it is a short walk to the Tamina Valley walking trail:
This walk begins at the centre of Bad Ragaz and follows the Badtobelweg. This narrow road runs alongside the Tamina river and ends at the enclosed part of the Tamina gorge (about 4.5 km). The only vehicle allowed on this road is bus 453 that runs from Bad Ragaz train station.
Tamina Valley walk to gorge – bbq and bus stop. A Leggettby bbq spot – Tamina Valley approx. halfway point with bus stopThe Badtobel grill and picnic spot offer a great place to stop and eat in a lovely setting. There are toilets, benches and tips on different ways to cook your sausages. This place doubles as the Badtobel bus stop.
The post bus easily manages to fit through the gap.
There are plenty of opportunities to cool off. Water cascades or trickles down the rockface all along the walk.
The gorge becomes wild and rugged in places – giving the gorge a tropical feel.
Walking under the TaminaBrücke (Tamina Bridge). The largest arched bridge in Switzerland.
Facing the old Pfäfers Baths from the entrance to springs.
Once reaching the gorge through a large opening and turnstile, there is a fenced-off walkway curving alongside the rockface, with water spraying past, and sometimes directly onto it – so expect to get a bit wet when entering.
There is an entrance charge for this enclosed part of the gorge. Tickets are available at the old baths Pfäfer which you walk through just before entry. There is a light show that accentuates the curves of the inner gorge’s walls. These lights are reasonably subtle and double as lighting so you can see where you are going.
Down the rabbit hole….
Once you get to the end of the walkway there are two doors with years 1969 and 1987 written above them – The original entry from the old baths closed in 1969 so this door is closed and locked, however, 1987 opens out to a narrow, dimly lit tunnel. When following the tunnel the temperature rises until finally reaching a dead end. Here is a warm natural spring so you can feel the thermal waters for yourself while reading the information panels. So no white rabbits or mad hatters down here…
When passing back through the altes Bad Pfäfers, there is a kiosk with seating outdoors, a cafe inside and, as mentioned earlier, a museum where the original thermal bathing rooms and a kitchen are displayed.
It is now possible to take a bus back or continue walking to other towns above the gorge.
Fascinating sculptures in the Bad Ragartz Exhibition
This open-air exhibition takes place in and around the town every 3 years and is considered to be the largest open-air sculpture display in Europe. The last exhibition (2021) showcased 83 artists from 16 countries.
It is free to view unless you want to take a guided tour. For me, the interactive sculptures were the best. I was able to add my head to a sculpture full of heads, walk up the stairs of a rusty metal structure and bounce on a beam that sunk partially underground. There are plenty of other pieces where kids can clamber over, through or climb on, however, some sculptures are NOT interactive, indicated with a polite do not touch sign. Also, what are those apes looking at??
The Bündner Herrschaft is the largest and best-known wine-growing region in Canton Graubunden. The region’s sunny location, frequent warm winds (föhn) and porous soil provide perfect conditions for grapes to thrive. First-class wines have been made here for centuries.
I visited this region in early July which seemed to be a perfect time. At this time of year, the vines are heavy with bright green leaves and small bunches of tiny grapes soak up the hot summer sun. Colourful roses are all around, and the meadows are full of wildflowers. Sounds like I am about to break into a song, but that is what it was like.
I decided to walk some of the Weinwanderweg (Wine walking trail) which passes through vineyards and villages, to learn about the process of making wine in this region. Clear information panels are available along the trail explaining the whole process from Spring to Winter; from planting the first vines to replacing the old ones. There were people working hard in the fields and the small tractors, specially designed to move between the vines, were busily doing their thing while I walked.
I found the whole experience including the views, smells and of course taste of the wine the perfect day trip for a break from the everyday. It felt a little bit like I had travelled deep into the vineyards of the Mediterranean, rather than a few kilometres off the main north/south motorway from Zürich to southern Switzerland.
Zürich – Maienfeld, changing at Sargans — 1 hour 5 mins
Zürich – Malans, changing at Landquart to bus 22 — 1 hour 14 mins
Lucerne- Maienfeld, 2 hours via Zürich HB.
Bus 22operates between Landquart and Maienfeld:
From Landquart train station arriving across the road from Malan’s train station in 5-7 mins. *From here is easy to take off into the countryside for a morning, afternoon or day of exploring.)
Lucerne – Maienfeld, takes approx. 1 hour 30 mins – 124 km, via Lake Zürich
Chur – Maienfeld, takes 15 mins, 20 km
Lanquart – Maienfeld, takes 5 min – 5 km
Walking from:
Landquart – Malans, 2km – 30 mins.
Landquart – Jenins, via Malans, 5 km – 1 hour
Maienfeld – Jenins, 2.7 km – 40 mins.
Maienfeld – Malans, via Jenins, 6 km – 1 hour 15 mins
BBQ spot just of the wine trail
This region offers some lovely restaurants, inns and wineries with terraces to take in the lovely scenery and fresh county air. There are also plenty of places available if you wish to prepare your own food or having a takeaway or picnic.
Find a Bench – These can be found almost anywhere. I found several alongside the walking tracks – often in the shade of trees or hedges and also dotted around the paths that run between the parcels of vines. Some even have the name of the vineyard carved on them.
Have a BBQ – Various BBQ spots with excellent facilities like grills, wood and tables can be found around this area (see map below).
Sit on a Restaurant Terrace – There are a lot of well-positioned terraces that face towards the great expanse of vines and Rhein Valley beyond. A couple I found in Jenins are close together – Alter Torkel which has an up-market style of food, and the Landgasthof zur Bündte. This hotel with restaurant has been in the same family for 5 generations (back to 1888).
Bad Ragaz – is a spa town across the Rhein in canton St. Gallen. This town straddles the impressive Tamina River which roars its way into the Tamina Gorge – there is a shaded walk alongside the Tamina river to the narrow gorge which is lit up to show off its impressive curves and cliffs. Bad Ragaz is also the place to take the Pizolbahnen (cable car) up to a popular walk – the 5 Lake Walk at the top of Pizol mountain.
Chur – The main town and main transport hub of Graubünden. Chur has a lovely enclosed old-town.
Fläsch – This is the most northern wine-growing town of the Bündner Herrschaft region. It has won the Wakker Prize 2010 for good town planning that preserved the orchards and vinyards within the towns boundries. Worth checking out because: There are 14 self-pressing viticulture companies in Fläsch. For more information go to their website.
My Walk Through The Vineyards – from Malans to Maienfeld
This area is spread out like a patchwork quilt on the gentle slopes above the Rhein plains. The north/south highway and railway line run directly alongside a straight section of the Rhein giving easy access to the area. The main towns are Landquart and Maienfeld with smaller towns like Malans also on the rail line. Buses connect the higher wine-growing villages and some small cable cars to train stations.
This was a decent 2-hour walk but it is just as easy to do smaller sections around the villages or try out many other trails that criss-cross the region.
Some impressions of the area from Malans to Jenins
The Village of Jenins
Jenins has narrow lanes with historical buildings, elegant mansions and old wooden houses clustering together, giving the village a cosy feel. Every now and the narrow streets and lanes lead to small squares with fountains. Grape vines seem to be growing everywhere; covering fences and crawling up houses as well as filling green spaces in and around the village.
According to Jenins’ website, this town has always had a policy of protecting its heritage, which includes the buildings, businesses and land, ensuring that modern buildings could not, for the most part, be built within the town, or onto the cultivated land around it – leaving the wineries in the area untouched for hundreds of years.
The locals seemed to support this leading to the avoidance of any building booms and also ensured that family-run business stayed within the families. The vineyards (around 44 hectares) are firmly in private hands, while the pasture areas belong to the municipality.
Alpine farming
The traditional Swiss method of using the high altitude meadows, is of great importance in Jenins: In summer the cows climb up to the 2,373 meter high summit of the Vilan in search of tasty grasses and herbs.
Contacting the winemakers in Jenins
These Jenins vineyards and cellars can be visits by appointment or have opening times. Another option is to check out the wine festivals – all information is on the websites. This is just a small example of what is available in the region.
Luzi and Ottilie Jenny-Willi Viticulture and self-pressing www.luzijenny.ch
Around 70 wine producers belong to the Graubünden Wine Association. The association has a presentation room attached to the Old Torkel Restaurant which sits above the vines on the edge of Jenins.
You can come here for tastings, information about the wines of the region and to book public guided tours of the vineyards.
Recent information on the Heidiland tourism website states: It is possible to do a 90-minute tour through the vines followed by a tasting, without reservation every Friday at 4.30 pm from April to October. Contact the House of Graubünden Wines, Jeninserstrasse 3, 7307 Jenins, Phone +41 (0)81 302 87 08, Email [email protected]
History and Heidi
Maienfeld, 502m, the «third city on the Rhine», lies at the foot of the striking Falknis, on the east side of the Rhine valley. The fact that Maienfeld, with 2500 inhabitants, can call itself a city dates back to city rights granted in the 15th century. At that time, Maienfeld stood at the intersection of historic military and transit roads on the Rhine valley and Walensee route. The old town with its impressive mansions and Salenegg and Brandis Castles today rates as a cultural asset of national importance.
In addition to wine and the international horse races in, October, Maienfeld owes its fame to Heidi, the figure from the world-famous children’s story by Johanna Spyri, published in 1880/1881 and translated into over 50 languages. Most of the story is set in the hamlet of Oberrofels, directly above Maienfeld. Today a Heidi Path leads from Maienfeld into a reproduced Heidi village, where a small living museum has been opened in the original Heidi house. There is also a hike called the “Heidi Trail” that goes up to Heidi Alp at 1111m, then back to Maienfeld via Vadella – Jenins.
Nearly every place in Switzerland boasts stunning views, so I may have missed a few 100 ideas from my list. However, these are some of my personal favourites so far. They are idyllic spots with plenty of room for exploring. These places are peaceful and away from the crowds of tourists. Hoher Kasten however, is best visited during the week as it’s a popular spot for the Swiss.
I will continue to explore with my family and post a Part 2 some time soon…
1)Hoher Kasten, Appenzell
These views are from the Hoher Kasten cable car and viewing platforms at the top. Hiking trails lead down to nearby lakes, forests and valleys.
How to get there:
Train/Bus: Appenzell, to Brülisau-Hoher Kasten: Train to Weissbad, then bus to cable car station at Brülisau – 16 mins.
By Car: Appenzell to Hoher Kasten lower station: 10 mins – 6 km
What to do here: Visit the revolving restaurant, hike back down or doa themed trail. Or simply enjoy the views from the viewing terraces and platforms.
2)Ftan; looking across the valley to Tarasp castle, Graubünden
The little village of Ftan is across the deep lower Engadin Valley. This village and its surrounding countryside offers unspoilt views of the impressive Tarasp Castle.
How to get there:
By Train:from Scuol, the largest town in the Lower Engadine valley, it takes 22 mins; from Landquart, 2 hrs 5 mins, with a change in Scuol.
By Car: From Landquart: Route 28, takes approx. 1 hr 30 – 71 km.
What to do around here: You can register for a guided tour of Tarasp Castle on their website. as well as plenty of hiking & biking, scenic trains trips, thermal baths at Scuol and skiing in winter.
Seelisberg is a small town sitting on a shelf above lake Lucerne. It is reachable by a combination of boat and funicular or from Lucerne, by road.
There is a natural mountain lake called Lake Seeli which offers swimming possibilities and camping (no vehicles of any kind are allowed on the campsite).It is when you walk away from this town and lake that you will reach the stunning viewpoints shown in this picture. There are also benches, loungers and grill spots if you feel like sticking around for a bit.
I did a circular hike from the Seelisee bus stop (Seeli) to the lake and beyond, then through the town, upwards to the other side of the main road until reaching a sheer cliff… from here I walked alongside the cliff, then turned back down to the bus stop, (almost missing the hourly bus). For more details of this walk, go to my Uri & Lake Lucerne page.
How to get there:
By boat to Treib, then funicular: seesbb.ch
Train/Bus: Takes approx. 1 hour with change from train to a bus in Stans.
By Car: From Lucerne, take the A2 for 31 km to Seeli parking (30 mins).
What to do here: swim, have a picnic or grill, hike, and camp (in the official camping site by the lake).
The photos are from the tiny town of Gandria on the side of Lake Lugano. The view is of the eastern arm of the lake, looking over the border into Italy. With the palm trees and bright blue sky, you could already imagine being in Italy.
How to get there:
By boat: From Lugano, takes 25-45 mins (for boat trips see my Canton Ticino site).
By Car: From Lugano: 15 mins, 5 km
What to do here: See my page on Canton Ticino for more on Gandria
There are lovely viewpoints at many places along the Rhein – from Germany to the source, Lai de Tuma, in canton Graubünden– considered the starting point. I have walked alongside and floated on the Rhein many times but this section, where the little medieval town of Eglisau sits on the banks, is one of my favourites. The bridge into Eglisau is a great viewpoint for seeing the lush green hills on either side. The town itself has well preserved historic buildings and a park area along the Rhein. From here there are trails through the forests giving more stunning views of the river on one side and, now and then, vineyards on the other. But best of all – it is off the normal tourist route.
How to get there:
By Train: From Winterthur: Takes 33 mins with 1 change. See sbb.ch.
By Car: From Winterthur: Takes 28 mins, 21 km
What to do here:
Walks up in the hills or down by the river.
Grilling by the river (only in allocated spots as this is a protected area)
Swimming in the Rhein at Eglisau or,
Boat trips on the Rhein
6) Wissifluh Cable car & Panorama Bench, Vitznau
From Wissifluh Gondola looking down on Vitznau campsite
Panorama Bench
From the lakeside town of Vitznau, canton Lucerne, it is possible to walk or drive to 2 gondolas. The bottom stations are next to each other, each with car parking.
The Wissifluhgondola is self-service. Basically, you will need to order a gondola and a maximum of 4 people can fit inside.
There are clear instructions in German and English explaining, in steps, what to do to “call” the gondola down and how to get moving once you are inside… It can be a bit disconcerting but, once you start seeing the views and have alighted at the top (after the top station’s little door slides open) you will soon stop shaking. It is a peaceful area with farms and meadows, and of course, the famous Panorama Bench to distract you from thinking about your trip back down.
How to get there: Train or boat from Lucerne: See sbb.ch for the timetable options. Each option takes about 1 hour. Driving: From Lucerne city centre: 35-45 mins – 26 km.
What to do here: Important points: 1. You pay on arrival at the top station. 2. Often these farm restaurants only take cash.
7) Seealpsee, AppenzellInnerrhoden
Seealpsee with the peak of Säntis in the middle distance
There is only one way to reach this lake – hike. The walking trail from Wasserauen to here is a great opportunity to experience the dramatic natural environment of the Alpstein Massif. See my Appenzell page for more information about the hike to Seealpsee and other options around this region.
Getting There:
By Train: Appenzell town to Wasserauen – regular departure. Travel Time: 13 mins.
By Car: Appenzell to Wasserauen – 11 mins drive – 7 km. Zürich to Wasserauen – 1.15 hrs – 100 km
What to do here:
Hiking, cable car rides,visiting the Mountain Inns on the lake and further above and for the experienced hiker/climber attempt to hike up Säntis.
In Appenzell – A place that reminds me of New Zealand
I would like to introduce myself and let you know why I am doing this blog. My husband and I originally come from New Zealand. Although we have lived in Zürich canton, Switzerland for over 10 years, along with our two Swiss-born children and two rabbits.
I grew up on a sheep farm in the middle of nowhere. In fact, if you can imagine the middle of nowhere – I was in the middle of that.
So moving here was a bit of a shock – I am now in the middle of everything. Luckily one of my favourite pastimes is exploring and Europe has always fascinated me.
There are definite similarities between Switzerland and New Zealand, mostly geographical. They both have stunning, dramatic scenery and remote, quiet corners (although I think New Zealand tips the scales on that last one).
However, Switzerland has a completely different feel about it. There are the historical villages where you feel as if you have stepped back in time, the alpine lakes that are warm enough to swim in. There are traditions and practices that go back hundreds of years, like the Fasnacht carnival with music, confetti, and fancy dress, or the Alpzeit processions to move the livestock up and down the mountains. The list goes on…
In canton Uri with the family
I just love this place and want to share my discoveries with others, especially people that prefer getting away from the crowds to find the quieter, more remote spots. I will continue to explore (lucky me) and write. I hope I can do Switzerland’s off-the-beaten-track justice.
Although there are a small number of impressive train trips on offer in New Zealand, the public transport system shadows in comparison to Switzerland. This is especially obvious in the countryside and farming communities, so to find a country with such an extensive, well-run public transport network is a huge bonus for me.
I do, of course, understand that Switzerland’s transport system is world-class with historically significant engineering accomplishments which are a result of the need to tackle incredibly challenging mountainous terrain.
For me, however, it was all about exploration and learning about my new home. I would take off all over the country, changing from trains to buses; trams to boats; cog railways to funiculars and was always amazed at how the connections were seamless and everything ran like clockwork.
My husband and I have now been living here for over 16 years and have both managed to travel the width and breadth of the country to many stunning destinations. However, there are some trips that are made just for the train journey rather than getting from A to B. They are the 6 premium panoramic train journeys. We have managed to get onto part of the routes here and there but I feel that the whole experience of the journey is what makes these trips so special.
Another unique route worth mentioning is the Palm Post Bus Express. This is not your average bus route. Starting in St Moritz, it winds its way over the border into Italy, down the side of Lake Como then back into Switzerland, via Lake Lugano in the Italian canton of Ticino.
These journeys are on my list of must-dos and we will definitely go one day soon… but until then, it was lots of fun researching them.
You can click on the coloured lines to find the routes or click on the little door at the top right to expand and view more details about each of the stops or thoroughfares en route.
Golden Pass Panoramic – Monteux to Zweisimmen: From Lake Geneva straight into the mountains. This route has mountain and valley views with picturesque villages full of chalets such as Gstaad. This is not an express train journey. It is one of three different routes, using three different rail lines (MOB, Zentralbahn, BLS), run byGoldenpass. You can find more information on the Goldenpass Line website here.
BLS RegioExpress ( A Goldenpass Line) – Zweisimmen to Interlaken Ost: Through the Simmental Valley and alongside Lake Thun where you will see typical wooden chalets in traditional villages. For more information either go to the Goldenpass website orBLS RegioExpress (website not yet available English 08/21).
Luzern-Interlaken Express(A Goldenpass Line)– Luzern to Interlaken Ost: (Or vice versa) You will pass four lakes on this trip, see waterfalls and go over the Brünig Pass. This journey takes 2 hours. You can find out more information here.
Glacier Express – Zermatt to St. Moritz: (You are able to go in either direction). This route takes you through Valais, Uri and Graubünden Cantons with the alpine village of Zermatt at one end; offering breathtaking views of the Matterhorn, and the elegant resort of St. Moritz at the other. In between is the UNESCO World site – Albula Railway with the Solis and Landwassser Viaducts and spiral tunnels and The Rhine Gorge which is known as the Grand Canyon of Switzerland. This full journey takes approx. 7 1/2 hours. You can depart from Davos and change trains at Filisur. For more information, see the website here.
Gotthard Panorama Express– Lugano (or Bellinzona) to Luzern: (or vice versa). This route takes you right through Switzerland, including a trip on a steamboat across Lake Luzern in the north. The journey is full of significant historical sights and stories including various well-known Swiss myths and legends. It takes approximately 5 hours. More about this trip can be found here.
Bernina Express – Chur to Tirano, Italy: This route has been thoughtfully built so as to blend in with the alpine landscapes around the Albula and Bernina Passes. The train negotiates the 55 tunnels, 196 bridges and inclines of up to 70 per mile with ease. At the highest point on the RhB, 2,253 metres above sea level, you will find the Ospizio Bernina. Here you can enjoy the Alps at their most impressive. The railway line from Thusis – Valposchiavo – Tirano has UNESCO World Heritage status. You can find more information here.
The Palm Express: passes through the Engadin & Bregaglia valleys of Graubünden, down into Italy then finishing in Ticino
Starting in St. Moritz, the scenic Palm Express journey takes you on a 4-hour trip from snowy rugged peaks and forested valleys to the palm trees & deep blue waters of Lake Como and Lake Lugano via Chiavenna in Italy. (An identity card or passport is needed for the border crossing).
St. Moritz –Menaggio–Lugano
Firstly the trip takes you past the large Silvaplaner and Silser Lakes on the way to the Maloja Pass.
The post bus then negotiates 14 hairpin bends down to Val Bregaglia which has a distinct Mediterranean influence. After crossing the Castasegna municipality border, the bus enters Italy, where the bus stops at Chiavenna Stazione for just over and hour giving the passengers time to stroll through the Chiavenna market stands and enjoy refreshments under the first palm trees.
The Palm Express now carries you past the blue waters of the Mezzola and Como lakes onto the Sorico, Gera Lario, Domaso, Gravedona, Dongo and Menaggio villages. Then alongside Lake Lugano were the post bus once again crosses the Italien Swiss border. The Swiss lakeside town of Gandria is a lovely little town to stop for some food then perhaps, to take a boat or walk the 5 km Sentiero di Gandria trail back to Lugano.
For more information go to the Post Auto website here:https://www.postauto.ch/en/excursion-tips/palm-express search by entering From: St. Moritz to: Lugano then “search connections“. The journey takes just under 4 hours, including the 1 hour stop in Italy.
Fensterplatz AB – Your personal train tour in the Appenzell region.
Photo from: Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
What Fensterplatz AB is…
The Fensterplatz AB App is a digital Appenzeller Railway audio guide of stories and various topics relating to the Appenzell region. The app is designed to be used in conjunction with your train journey to tell you a bit about the landscape and villages that are outside your window.
How it works
First, you download the app and choose if you want to register –
Then either download a tour if no internet connection or choose the online option.
Choose the departure and arrival stations and put your headphones in to listen to the commentary. The App works with GPS points and so you will need to allow location access and use headphones for listening to the commentary.
Start the tour when the train departs.
You simply purchase a normal ticket – either a day pass for a return journey, or a single ticket for a point-to-point trip. Then use your app once entering the train.
There are two options for purchasing tickets: The public transport that services Schaffhausen, Thurgau, Appenzell and St. Gallen regions is called OSTWINDbut tickets can also be purchased and timetables viewed on the Swiss National Transport website – sbb.ch.
Another ticketing option is to use fairtiq.com which is mentioned on the Fensterplatz AB website. This is also new technology for train travel. Fairtiq is an app that can be used to purchase the ticket as you enter the train or bus and stop the purchase when you leave. (I am yet to try this out but will add more information when I do).
For more information go to the Fensterplatz website. (Go into the menu/tours for suggested trips).
A possible trip would include:
Hopping on at St. Gallen …
Photo by @Schweiz Tourismus, André Meier
Then travelling through the Appenzell countryside and villages, learning about the views out the train window …
Photo: Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives @ René Niederer Artwiese
When arriving in Appenzell village, hop off the train and walk past the colourful houses, then try some local produce …
before getting back on the train to learn more about farming traditions, village life, leisure possibilities or local products.
Photo: Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives René Niederer Artwiese
Then arrive back in St. Gallen’s central station.
St. Gallen Roter Platz Photo by Giglio Pasqua, St. Gallen Tourismus
