This blog shows places that are often a side note or not found in most guide books. Let me show you my favourite spots - places that are just a bit off the beaten track in this beautiful country.
Ski trails and Glarus mountains of the Pizol in the eastern Heidiland Region – – View from chairlift
February in Switzerland is traditionally a time when skiers flock to the numerous ski resorts that cover the Swiss Alps. There are all kinds of winter sports locations – from the large multi-region resorts to the smaller locally run pistes and finally, to the blink and you would miss alpine villages that transform hillside meadows and mountain slopes into ski runs (my favourite). There are so many options all over the country. Unfortunately, the alpine regions normally covered in thick snow at this time of year are experiencing more and more instances where they struggle to keep the snow on the pistes, mountain trails and sledge runs.
Planning a Snowy Getaway
These warmer winters have made it more problematic to plan a ski-based getaway in the Alps. However, as an added safeguard to ensure visitors continue to come, the ski resorts are adding more autumn and spring-like activities to keep attracting winter sports enthusiasts. These alternatives to skiing have become a necessity for local businesses to keep operating through the winter months.
When trying to organise a dream ski holiday, these are the issues that can arise:
You booked your holiday months ago, have all the equipment organised and have committed to staying in a particular holiday home or hotel. The issue: The snow is melting fast and your accommodation is now surrounded by flattened grass and mud…
You have no idea what to expect and what to commit to before starting your holiday. The issue: Do you book ski lessons or tickets early or do you wait and hope the prices don’t rise?
Solutions
1. Keep Informed
Information Board at Ibergeregg near Schwyz, Central Switzerland
Download the Swiss Tourism Swiss Snow App – this clarifies everything you need to know about conditions in pretty much any ski area in Switzerland. Some of the details include: the depth of the snow – in both the mountains and the valleys, what lifts are open and webcams for a proper inspection. This App also has maps and advice on the type of snow, prices for tickets, offers, tobogganing runs, snow parks, and winter hiking trails through forests where the snow tends to stick around. Also, most importantly for this post, other types of activities.
Bergflex.ch is an amazing source of information about ski resorts all over the country. Information includes snow depth, number of lifts, prices, altitude, km of pistes, and links to accommodation… all on one page! Worth viewing for up-to-date information.
You can always go further upwards or outwards. The Swiss Alps are surprisingly compact and the public transport is legendary. It’s easy to get from valley or mountain accommodation to other resorts or higher altitudes by public transport.
Example 1: Try The Graubünden Pass, a rail pass which covers over 7,106 square kilometres of the canton and 150 valleys. This pass includes half-price travel on certain mountain rail journeys. It also covers travel on the Post bus routes, the little red Rhätischen Rail line and some cable cars. This region is full of high-altitude ski resorts, small pistes, ice-skating, sled runs, alternative winter activities and lovely small villages. The wild Bernina mountains are particularly good for guaranteed winter snow and a chance to view the Diavolezza Glacier which can be viewed from the top of a cable car at around 3,000 metres above sea level. It is possible to ski around here from the middle of October to the start of May.
Example 2: Snow ‘n’ Rail by Switzerland Rail Network – sbb.ch. By booking through the public transport website it is possible to book a combination of public transport and 1 day or multi-day ski passes for over 25 ski regions. These passes are discounted and can include the return journey and the relevant transport options for getting up the mountain. Discounts can be as much as 30%, depending on the time of year.
Plenty of resources are always available to see what to do and where to do it. The local tourism authorities have stepped up over the last few years. You can always find informative brochures, booklets or online advice on winter activities. There are loads of options wherever you are.
… and, of course, for those lesser-known spots… try my blog 🙂
The truth about how mountains are made is unveiled in the amazing Pizol alpine region. Found in the UNESCO World Heritage Sardona Tectonic Arena, this region is full of panoramic wonders – you just need to know where to look.
The Pizol High Plateau is like a viewing platform of geological events going back millennia. You can see mountain chains once part of the African plate, the Rhine Valley, once a huge glacier, snaking off into the distance and mountain peaks, once hundreds of metres below the ocean in deep-sea trenches, now over 2,500 metres above sea level covered in snow. But the region is mostly famous for the discovery that geologists and scientists made here – how mountains are formed. The collision of plates can be seen in the clearly defined layers of rock over 300 million years old, now known as the “Glarus thrust”.
Why would anyone want to miss a show like that?
How to view mighty mountains and the Rhine Valley –Pizol’s Panorama Trail
Sign meanings: Yellow indicates Ski Tours 34 & 35 down to Gaffia middle chairlift station, Brown/red is the red ski slope to Gaffia and Green indicates the paragliding site – available in both summer and winter. Pink is for winter trail 172 – Panorama circular trail – more detail below.
Doing the Panorama Trail
Length: 3.6 km | Duration: 1 hour 10 mins | Height Difference: 30 m | Start: Either Wangs or Bad Ragaz gondola stations
Location
When travelling by car, the Pizol Region is reached via the main A3 motorway in a southeast direction from Zürich. Around 30 minutes after travelling across the southern tip of Lake Zürich the motorway runs through the Rhine Valley where dramatic views of the Alps rise up in front of you – of course, this depends on the weather. The Glarus Valley to the west, is notorious for fog but once this clears the mighty peaks are visible all around. Once travelling through tunnels and alongside Walensee (Lake Walen), the Rhine Valley widens and this is when signposts for Wangs and Bad Ragaz come into view. From here it is easy to exit the motorway and find a park at the valley stations of both gondolas.
When taking public transport the views from the train start in the valley and include the wonderful Walensee. From Wangs or Bad Ragaz buses connect the train station to the gondolas.
The Trail
The Pizol high plateau stretches out between the top chairlift stations Laufböden and the Pizolhütte, with the magnificent Panorama Höhenweg circular hiking trail meandering between these two points. The crowning glory is the summit panorama and the Grand Tour of Switzerland photo spot at the Tagweidlichopf viewpoint. The circular trail is dedicated to the UNESCO World Heritage Tectonic Arena Sardona.
Highlights:
Large info panel at the panoramic viewing platform with astounding insights into the formation of the Alps.
Grand Tour of Switzerland Photo Spot.
360-degree views.
Clear views of the ridging and folding of rock strata known as the Glarus Thrust.
Well-groomed paths in a stunning winter landscape.
Friendly staff
Cosy mountain restaurants with indoor and outdoor seating.
Panorama Benches
My Experience
I was lucky enough to have an invitation from the lovely staff at Pizol Tourism and Marketing after asking for information about winter walking in the area.
I planned to explore the area with a friend. The idea was that we would get familiar with the area by taking the gondola and chair lifts to the top, have a coffee at the Pizolhütte Restaurant, do the trail, take plenty of photos and learn more about the Tectonic Arena, then finish for another drink before going down to the valley.
View from chairlift – ski trails and the Glarus mountains hidden under thick snow.
Getting to the Pizol Plateau
Great theory but unfortunately my friend couldn’t make it so I was on my own. It was not a problem except when I arrived I was surrounded by skiers, a gondola trip then 2 chair lift rides to the top. I imagined sharing a chair lift with a seasoned skier – they would gracefully alight at the top station, swishing off into the snowy distance, I, however, would be forced to run along the hard snowy floor of the station, probably slip, ending up under the chairlift with the possibility of my backpack strap hooked around some part of the lift. The staff would be forced to stop the lifts while unhooking me and pulling me to my feet. I would then limp off, spending the rest of my time on the mountain worrying about the trip down.
Attentive Staff
Of course, it didn’t happen like that. The lift staff were very attentive and made sure I was not travelling with skiers, also the exit from the lifts was very straightforward – I just took a step to the side and was on firm ground. There were also plenty of other people doing the winter walks so, most importantly, I was not alone.
So I started the Panorama trail completely relaxed, breathing in the crisp alpine air, bathed in sunlight, buzzing at the thought of walking on the well-groomed paths. It was very early in the day and the snow was pretty hard on the trail. This meant a bit of slipping and sliding to start with, which was viewed by others in the chair lift but at that point, I didn’t care. The wonderful thing about the Pizol plateau is that you feel like you are on top of the world, with views of mountains going on forever into the distance. A few slips and slides didn’t matter. I just waved at my audience and continued to slip and slide down the path.
After the initial challenge, the path softened and was easier to negotiate. I would recommend sturdy winter boots for the walk and I noticed some other hikers have poles, but these are not required.
Near the start of the trail looking towards the Tagweidlichopf viewpoint.
The Hike
The high plateau at 2222 meters, that the trail crosses, is positioned in front of the Sardona Tectonic Arena like a naturally shaped viewing platform. The views are in all directions – towards the World Heritage Glarus mountains, across the Rhine Valley and as far as Lake Constance in clear weather, then layers of Alps disappearing into the distance.
On the trail, looking towards Pizolhütte Restaurant and chairlift.
Beautiful shapes are made from shadows created by the morning sun. Lake Wangser (Wangsersee) is hidden under snow and ice.
Tagweidlichopf vantage point
The high-altitude trail is lined with information about the view, the origin of the Alps and the UNESCO World Heritage Site. One of the highlights is the Tagweidlichopf vantage point (2275 m above sea level) with a 360-degree panoramic view and a large panoramic viewing guide explaining the geological changes and events that created the landscape.
A Grand Tour of Switzerland photo spot with a view of the Pizol summit and its glacier was installed here in July 2018. The Pizol was chosen as one of the 40 most beautiful photo spots in Switzerland.
How to get thereand a map of walking routes with lifts
A gondola and chairlift complete the journey up to the Pizol Plateau from Bad Ragaz – Laufböden (2,224 m). Another option is with a gondola and 2 chairlifts from the town of Wangs -Pizolhütte station (2,222 m). All lifts connect seamlessly. The map below displays the lifts.
Winter hiking trail – Pizol Panorama Höhenweg (high altitude walk). Can also be done in summer.
To the Valley Station at Wangs or Bad Ragaz
Public Transport
Zürich main station to Bad Ragaz train station: Taking 1 hr 16 mins (depending on connection), then the bus to Bad Ragaz Pizol Bahn (gondola) takes 13 mins. (Check the sbb.ch timetable for exact connection times).
Zürich main station to Sargans train station: Taking 1 hr 10/ 1 hr 30 mins (depending on connection), then the bus to Wangs Pizolbahn (gondola) takes 10 mins. (Check the sbb.ch timetable for exact connection times).
Car
Central Zürich – around 90 km to Wangs gondola car and 95 km to Bad Ragaz gondola car park – taking around 1 hour 40 mins/ 2 hours depending on traffic.
Lucerne – 85 km to the region.
Gondolas and chairlifts
Access to the top (Pizol Plateau)
Bad Ragaz: 8-seater Gondola Bad Ragaz-Pardiel and 4-seater chairliftto Laufböden.
Wangs: 8-seater Gondola Wangs-Furt and 4-seater chairlift Furt-Gaffia then 4-seater chairlift Gaffia-Pizolhütte.
Where and how to enjoy off-the-beaten-track activities in Switzerland‘s magic winter landscape– away from the busy ski pistes.
It’s easy to find sublime winter landscapes in Switzerland but sometimes it can be difficult to find the right activities once you are there. The 7 activities that I chose are great for enjoying the snowy atmosphere, the views and the wonderful natural environment and, of course, for having some serious fun. They are sledding, winter hiking, snowshoeing, ice-skating, snow kite surfing, snow biking and alpine thermal baths.
Learning to Ski in Switzerland’s Magic Winter Landscape as an adult
I am a perpetual beginner when it comes to skiing. Despite living an hour’s drive from a ski field in NZ, the farm took top priority, so skiing simply wasn’t on our radar.
I first learned to ski in Bulgaria on a backpacking trip. It was a bad start – the snow was starting to melt when we arrived… and didn’t stop melting.
My next experience with skiing was when my husband and I took a road trip through Europe many years ago. We had a blast attempting to stay upright on the slopes in Andorra and Austria. Without the budget for ski lessons, it was a bit hit or miss – with a few noteworthy wipeouts that we still laugh about today. Somehow we managed to avoid any broken limbs although our pride was pummeled by children offering to help us up way too often.
Over the years I have slowly improved but I am still happy with the beginners’ slopes. It doesn’t stop me from loving it (unless I venture onto a black slope in error, then it is simply terrifying).
As far as I am concerned, the point of skiing is to get out of the house, shake off the winter cobwebs, and have some fun, however, skiing isn’t the only option. I have come up with a few alternatives which can be just as much fun but maybe less terrifying (in some cases).
1. Sledding and Snowshoe hike in the Albula Valley
The iconic Preda to Bergün tobogganing run with a circular snowshoe walk
Sled run from Preda to Bergün
The Albula Pass tobogganing run
I didn’t try sledging until I was an adult – our farm was in the Canterbury Plains… so pretty flat. It took a lot of courage to do the Preda to Bergün tobogganing run in the Albula Pass. It is only possible to use the daunting wooden Davos sleds, however, my courage was rewarded with a crazy family day out that included idyllic train trips uphill and action-packed, slightly out-of-control trips back down.
Tip: There are different types of wooden Davos sleds depending on your level and confidence. The beginner sleds are easier to control and slower and most have a soft seating area.
The tobogganing run is special for 2 reasons:
Reason 1: The train journey from Bergün twists & turns through the mountains of the Albula Pass and over elegant viaducts to reach the start of the tobogganing rungiving you a taste of the UNESCO World Heritage Albula line.
Reason 2: The 6 km tobogganing run goes directly under the viaducts and, if you time it right, at the same time as the trains speed over them.
Tip: A good time to do this run is between train arrival times in Preda. We hired some snowshoes and did a circular track that goes past the pretty Palpuognasee (Lake Palpuogna), then replaced our snowshoes with sleds at the rental kiosk, managing to get going long before the train full of other sledders arrived.
Snowshoe trail to Lago Palpuogna
Lake Palpuogna – once voted as the most beautiful spot in Switzerland
Palpuogna snowshoe (Schneeschuh) Trail No. 528
Hike Distance: 5 km
Level: Easy/Medium
Duration: 2 hours
Ascent: 220 m
In the winter, when snow covers the Albula Pass, this region truly becomes a magic winter landscape. The Rhaetian Railway journey that passes through the small hamlet of Preda is often full of sleds and their owners making sure they don’t fall down as the train twists and turns through the tunnels and over the curved viaducts. This train ride is very smooth so all sleds and anybody standing close to them are pretty safe.
When leaving the train the majority of the people will be heading for the sled run. The snowshoe trail, in the opposite direction, is a calmer alternative to experience the peaceful natural environment of this area.
Short-cut option near Preda Photo A.Leggett
TheRoute
This circular trail from Preda train station follows old mule trails and leads to the beautiful Lake Palpuogna. The signposts, which are pink with a picture of a snowshoe, are easy to follow. This is a beautiful place to visit even though the lake is often covered in snow. Far away from any town or roads (the pass is closed to traffic in winter), this trail leads through pine forests and has lovely mountain views.
Some Tips
Tip 1:This is a great walk when trying out snowshoeing for the first time since most of the trail is groomed and reasonably easy.
Tip 2:Have your snack breaks in amongst the trees. The lake was exposed to an icy wind when wedid the hike and the only place to sit was a snow-covered bench with only the top showing. We used that as a seat, then quickly ate our snacks and took off into the forest which is where we should have stopped as the temperature was nice and mild amongst the trees.
Tip 3: The official map for the Palpuogna snowshoe trail can be found on the Swiss Mobility website. This website is also great for the national network of winter and snowshoe routes around the country.
Information
Services
Snowshoe and Sled Rental – Mark Sportin Bergün – staff are always friendly and happy to help. The Kiosk directly at Preda train station also hires a selection of sleds and snow shoes.
Getting There
The toboggan run and snowshoe trail both start from the train station at Preda.
Train: Bergün to Preda – 17 minutes and leaves regularly throughout the day. See sbb.ch for details. The Albula Pass road is closed to traffic during the winter months.
2. Thermal Baths in the Lower Engadin and Viamala Region
Engadin Bad Scuol(Bogn Engiadina) in the Upper Engadin
Inside the Bogn Engiadina, Image by Anita Leggett
The town of Scuol is the biggest town in the Lower Engadin Valley. It takes a bit of effort to get here but the journey through wild landscapes and past idyllic villages; as well as the magical views, from the baths themselves, are all good reasons to come.
What is available at the Scuol baths*
Panorama pool, approx. 33 ° C
Exercise and therapy pool, 33 ° C
Brine pool – 2% brine, approx. 33 ° C
Whirlpool – approx. 36 ° C
Grottos – Cold water, 18 ° C and warm water grotto, 36 ° C
We stayed in Andeer for a ski week in 2018 and found these mineral baths around the corner from our accommodation. We often went there in the evenings. I think I enjoy the thermal baths as much as the skiing!
The Andeer Mineral Baths are found in the small, typical Graubünden village of Andeer. This is an ideal place if you are looking for peace and quiet. They have cobbled streets and a pretty town center with a welcoming bakery. The buses leave from this area regularly to Splügen Tambo ski resort which can be reached in 13 mins or 15 minutes by car.
What is available at the Andeer baths*
One indoor and one outdoor mineral pool (good size) – both with bubble, whirlpool & neck shower
Constant 34 degrees
Evening light display in the outdoor pool
Wellness
Finnish sauna and bio sauna as well as a steam bath (currently reserved for women only from 6-9 pm).
Splash and Spa Tamaro Abo – 20% off ski pass (see website for details)
*As of Dec 2023
For up-to-date information and a funny video go to their website. Also, theSplügen Tambowebsite gives more information about the Splash and Spa Tamaro discount (20% off your day ski pass with entry to the spa).
Some lesser-known ski resorts in canton Graubünden – great for beginners
Splügen Tambo Ski Area – great skiing for beginners. Photo: A. Leggett
If you want to have a go at skiing far from the crowds. I recommend these small lesser-known ski slopes, also in canton Graubünden, that offer great practice runs for beginners – big or small.
Splügen – Tambo, The ski resort is close to Andeer and offers a wide variety of beginner & family slopes. Splügen is also a lovely, well-preserved historical town, across the road from the resort.
Tip: Book ski passes online, ski during the week or low season for lower prices and the day passes are discounted when combined with entry to the Andeer thermal baths.
Bergün, Graubünden – 1 beginner and 1 blue slope – both small – They are really good for practice before going to the neighbouring slopes of Darlux ski area: 3 lifts & 25km of slopes.
Pany – tiny ski resort with plenty of room to practice. Photo: A.Leggett
Pany(in Luzein, Prättigau, Graubünden) – a tiny ski area with 1 (very long) T-bar lift, 1 children’s lift and 7 km of runs. It includes a small number of good-sized runs through trees to make it interesting. Also offers a ski school and a lovely restaurant with a terrace.
If you are looking for one of the most beautiful winter landscapes in Switzerland you cannot avoid the Upper Engadin. This wide valley sits at 1,800 metres above sea level and is equipped with many frozen lakes, wide sweeping slopes and craggy mountain ranges; pristine villages and glamourous towns – St Moritz is one of the most well-known. Winters here are a blessing for winter sport enthusiasts with regular low temperatures, keeping the landscape white and the lakes frozen.
Lake Silvaplana is a large lake battered by the Maloja winds that sweep over the lake around midday each day. This and the large expanse of snow-covered ice make this lake a mecca for snow-kite surfing enthusiasts. The good news is that it has become a major sport which means better training, and plenty of options for beginners upwards – this includes beginner skiers (understandably, you do need to stand and move confidently on skis).
Swiss Kite Centre and School
This is the home of kite surfing and snow kite surfing. The owner, Swiss-born Stefan Popprath taught his first student snowkiting in 1994 even before an official name was given to the sport.
He founded the centre after realised the Maloja wind and the location of the lake was perfect for kites and surfing so, after some inspiration from another adventurer, Reinhold Messner, and researching and testing equipment, he set up the kite surfing centre in the 1990s. Anything you need to know about the centre and the sport is available on his website or by visiting the sport centre itself.
The Locations and other activities
Swiss Kitesurf has three locations. The main one is at the centre on Lake Silvaplana, the others are Furtschella – 5 mins from the centre and the Bernina Pass 20 mins from the centre. The Kite Surfing Centre is part of Mulet sport centre which also has an ice-skating rink, hockey field and curling.
Information
Services
Kite Rental – Seetheir websitefor information on Kite rental and schooling.
Food and Drink – Restaurant Mulets – Just above the kite surfing sports centre – with great views of the lake and mountains. See the kite sailing website for more information.
Getting There
Public Transport:Chur to Kite School Silvaplana train/bus journey time: 2 hours 30 mins with changes. St. Moritz by bus 17 minutes including an 8-minutewalk from the bus stop. See sbb.ch for timetables.
The 2.5 km Via da Glatsch ice-skating trail runs alongside the River Inn and links the villages of Zuoz to Madulain. These two traditional villages have stunning architecture and sit in a sunny part of the Engadin valley. Even though these villages are only around 25 minutes by train from the extravagant St. Moritz, they feel a world away. Zuoz is pretty and quiet with local produce and traditions everywhere. The tourist information offers a walking tour of the town with details about the history of different buildings and the everyday lives of the people living in this part of the Upper Engadin Valley.
Another Ice-Skating option – Lake St. Moritz (St. Moritzersee).
Glamorous people sparkle this time of year in St. Moritz. Some do literally sparkle and it can be blinding. Apart from this side of St. Moritz, there are some very cool groomed ice-skating tracks on the lake. They are nice and wide and you always have the option to rest in the snow at the side. This is such an idyllic location and it is difficult not to be impressed.
Information
Services for Ice-Skating Trail
Skate Rental – Willy Sport in Zuoz; Colamo Sport in La Punt Chamues-ch; Promulins Arena, Samedan
Admission Cost:- CHF5
Getting There
Train: St. Moritz – Madulain 21 mins; St.Moritz – Zuoz – 26 mins hourly changing at Samedan.
Sledding in the Bernese Oberland’s Reichenbach Valley
The Bernese Oberland’s Rychenbach River Valley connects the Meiringen region to the Grindelwald region. This valley gains altitude from Meiringen to the Grosse Scheidegg Pass.
The Reichenbach Valley
One of the oldest and best-preserved funiculars in Switzerland climbs from Meiringen village up to the alpine valley. The valley gradually gains altitude from the top of the funicular to Grosse Scheidegg (850 m – 1962 m) and is surrounded by views of dramatic mountains.
The valley has forests, wide open fields, theRosenlaui Gorge and the impressive Reichenbach River. Little hamlets and the romanticRosenlaui Hotel can be found along the way. The Post Bus is one of the few forms of transport that can use the small windy road without restrictions.
Where to Sled
This kind of landscape is perfect for winter sledding. The post bus travels from Meiringen up to the valley’s highest point – Grosse Scheidegg. From here it is an exciting 5.5 km ride on the sled down to the hamlet of Schwarzwaldalp where the bus once again takes you and your sled up to start all over again.
The views are amazing with the run at the foot of the dramatic Wetterhorn and the Horn range of mountains.
Experience Needed:Suitable for both novices and experienced riders.
Tip. There are also many snowshoe trails in the Reichenbach Valley.
Information
Services
Sled Rental– from the Chalet-Hotel Schwarzwaldalp. Food and Drink – there are restaurants and services at both ends of the sled run – Schwarzwaldalp and Grosse Scheidegg.
Getting There
Public Transport – Interlaken to Meiringen
Sledding – A special Schlitten (sled) Bus runs regularly from Meiringen to Schwarzwaldalp and then up to Grosse Scheidegg.
Operating times 2023/2024
Daily: from 26th December 2023 to 7th January 2024
Thursday to Sunday: from 11th January to 3rd March 2024
Velogemel is a cross between a bike and a sled. Now used as an adrenalin-fuelled activity, this contraption was originally meant as an everyday way of getting about in the winter months for the locals. Developed and patented by Christian Bühlmann from Grindelwald back in 1911, it was known as a “single-track steerable sled”.
The Velogemel toboggan run is the bottom part of the Big Pintenfritz tobogganing run which is considered the longest in Europe at 15 km and is classed as difficult. So think carefully before attempting it.
Where the Velogemel run starts and finishes
Starts: At Bussalp (1,800 m). The stunning views from Bussalp include the world-famous Alp trio – Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. The descent gives an adrenalin hit in terms of speed and balance and is definitely a very original and adventurous way to fly down a mountain.
Finishes: In either Grindelwald,Weidli (2.5 km northwest of the train station) or Grindelwald Village depending on the conditions. (See Info section below for more details).
Tip 1: If you only want to watch these bike-sleds in action, the Velogemel World Championships take place at the beginning of February every year (since 1996) – the races start from Bussalp.
Tip 2:It is better to do the run in the morning as the snow can get soft and sludgy later in the day.
Tip 2: There are also plenty of other toboggan runs with all levels of difficulty starting from or going through Bussalp. See this link for more information – Grindelwaldbus.
“City Run – The Classic” Toboggan Run, Bussalp – Weidli
Information
Services
Velogemel Rental – Rent from either Grindelwald railway station, Kaufmann Sport in Grindelwald centre or Ski service Egger at Grindelwald Grund, then take the bus from the train station to Bussalp at 1800 m. Food and Drink – Bergrestaurant (mountain restaurant) Bussalp.
Getting There
GrindelwaldBus line 126 from Grindelwald train station to Bussalp. Toboggan run stops in Weidli, above Grindelwald village. Buses regularly leave from Weidli back up to Bussalp.
Cantons Lucerne and Schwyz
7. Winter Hiking and snowshoe trails
Winter Hiking on the sunny Ibereregg Pass, high above Schwyz township.
Ibergeregg Pass looking towards Lake Lucerne, Photo by A.Leggett
Tucked in between Lakes Lucerne and Lake Zürich is the wonderful Mythen region of foothills and mountains. IbergereggPass is part of the mountainous area connecting the Einsiedeln region (close to Zürich) and the Rotenflue mountain, above the town of Schwyz (close to Lake Lucerne).
This is a great place to get above the clouds and walk out in the open and through fir trees to Berggasthäuser (mountain restaurants) and Beizlis (small eateries). There are often views of the lakes or, like in this photo, a blanket of clouds.
Mythen Region
The Mythen region is an alpine region that encompasses the Ibergeregg Pass, the dramatic GrosseMythen mountain (1,898 m) and the Rotenflue mountain (1,571 m). This is where you will find a wide, undulating landscape with dramatic mountains, meadows, moorlands and woods – a paradise for walking, winter sports and trying out the local produce.
Hiking and snowshoe trails – Ibergeregg Pass
Ibergeregg Pass is a good place to try out some winter walks and snowshoe trails as there is a good network of national routes and local routes starting here. Also, there are many mountain restaurants and inns in this region and the routes pass right past a few of them. They often have outdoor terraces and are well-signposted.
Information
Travelling to Rotenflue from Lake Lucerne: Train/Bus to Rychenbach (a suburb of the Schwyz township); then Rotenflue cable car – 1 hour 25 minutes including changes.
Travelling to Ibergeregg Pass from Zürich: Train to Schwyz, change at Arth Goldau; then bus to Ibergeregg Pass (505) – 1 hour 40 mins including changes.
Region of Einsiedeln/Oberiberg: These are starting points for the Hoch Ybrig ski resort, then bus 505 leaves from Oberiberg – 12 minutes.
Rigi mountain range – gentle slopes overlooking Lake Lucerneon one side and Lake Zug on the other
A natural border between the lower, flatter Swiss Mittelland that runs in a northwesterly direction and the summits of the Swiss Alps, Rigi is considered one of the most classic panorama mountains in Switzerland. Rigi summit, topped by Rigi Kulm, rises between Lake Zug (Zugersee) and Lake Lucerne (Vierwaldstättersee).
Winter WalkingTrails
There are several winter walks and snowshoe trails spread along Rigi’s peaks and slopes and they are all well connected by a network of public transport.
Winter Walking –Rigi Panorama Path
Rigi Kaltbad, on the Lake Lucerne facing slope, has a small station for the historical mountain railway and is home to the Mineralbad & Spa– sublime thermal baths with a view.
A gentle walk from the main summit, Rigi Kaltbad to Rigi Scheidegg offers plenty of superb lookout points in all directions.
Hike Distance: approx.7.9 km
Level: Medium
Finish: Rigi Scheidegg
Duration: 2 hrs
Type of Walk: Point-to-Point
AscentDescent: 250/136 m
Start: Rigi Kaltbad
This winter route is called the Panoramaweg (Panorama Walk). It doesn’t have any steep sections – just a long gentle ascent from 1,424 m to 1,641 m over 8 km. It can be walked in both directions, in sections or used for walking to one of the mountain restaurants’ panorama terraces.
Information
This walk starts and finishes with different means of ascent/descent as follows:
Rigi Kaltbad:
Lake Lucerne/Vitznau: mountain rail
Lake Lucerne/Weggis: cable car
Lake Zug side/Arth Goldau: mountain rail
Rigi Scheidegg:
From Rigi Scheidegg to Kräbel: mountain rail – linking with mountain railway to Arth Goldau, (Lake Zug side).
From Rigi Scheidegg to Kräbel: mountain railway to Rigi Kulm (peak) then to Vitznau by mountain train or Weggis by cable car (Lake Lucerne).
Websites:sbb.chfor boat/train/mountain rail links and Rigi for cable car information and further winter walks, snowshoe trails, toboggan runs etc.
Understanding Winter Signposts
Sledding Guidelines
Links
Winter trails are clearly visible in a snowy environment
Pink signposts and arrows are used for winter walking, hiking or snowshoe trails and the turquoise signs represent cross-country skiing.
Snow Shoe Trails
Snowshoe trails are pink with a snowshoe symbol. If the trail is a national route, then it indicates the name and number of the route with a dark pink background.
WinterHiking Routes
The national routes are marked with the relevant number on a light pink background
Winter trails sometimes have a symbol that indicates what kind of walk it is – light walk or hike. In this case, it is an 8 km hike that ascends 340 m.
Good to know: Pink poles line both sides of the trails and it is important to stay within these poles as ski pistes often zig-zag beside, through and past the winter hiking routes.
Local Routes
Many local councils have created winter trails – sometimes groomed, sometimes not but definitely a unique way of seeing the villages from a different perspective (this one is above Bergün in the Albula Pass).
These are normally pink with a white snowflake.
Cross-Country Skiing Signs
Cross-country skiing signposts and route indicators are turquoise. However, this road sign is pretty clear – you are about to cross a cross-country skiing track.
Restaurant and Guesthouse Signs
Beizli – small eatery serving local products,
Bergrestaurant – mountain restaurant
Bergasthaus – mountain guest house and restaurant
Alpwirtschaft – a small family-owned restaurant often part of a farm or cheese dairy (may not be open in summer).
Alpstubli – Look and feel of a traditional mountain restaurant – often large and associated with a ski area.
My Favourite Sign – made by my kids.
Sledding Guidelines
Small toboggan run in Oberiberg, canton Schwyz. Photo A.Leggett
What to wear –
Always wear good winter boots with a solid sole and plenty of tread. Your boots are used for braking and steering.
Ski helmet.
Waterproof gloves, ski pants and ski jacket
Scarf ( tucked in of course)
Small backpack
Goggles or good sunglasses
How to use the wooden Davos sleds –
Leg position – Legs should be bent and facing forward. Hold onto the reins and lean back. On straight and flat sections of the run, the feet can rest on the runners.
Steering – Steer with both your boots and body – When steering to the left, simply put your left foot out into the snow and the same with a right turn, right foot. Also, lean your body in the direction you are turning (into the corner).
Braking –
When the terrain flattens out put both feet flat on the snow to slow down or stop.
When on the slope, dig your heels into the snow to slow down and brake.
If you need to brake on steep terrain, pull up the front of the sled with the reins. The more you pull, the more you will brake.
When the run becomes steep it is better to sit in the rear of the sled.
Rules of sledging
Show consideration for others
Adapt speed and driving style to ability
Respect the lane of the vehicle in front
Overtake with distance
Look up before entering and approaching the road
Stop at the edge
Get on and off at the edge
Observe signs and markings
German words for communicating when sledding
Sledding/sled – schlitten fahren/ der Schlitten
Sled rental – Schlitten mieten.
Watch out! – Achtung! or aufpassen!
I am passing! – Ich gehe durch! or Achtung!
Further Links
Swiss Mobility has a listing of around 100 toboggan runs with filter options for level of difficulty. Go to the link here to take a look – Schwiezmobil.
schlitten.ch is a great website, in German and English, which offers advice on different types of sledand how to get around the corners without falling off.
After spending a few hours hiking on an alpine trail that goes through meadows and forests; under overhanging rocks, across streams and through high valleys, it is such a wonderful feeling when the magical Oberblegisee alpine lake appears in front of you mirroring the surrounding mountain peaks.
The only access to the lake is with a gondola ride and then hiking and biking trails – keeping it well hidden.
The Walk
The walk to the lake and then to the Brunnenberg cable car takes approx. 3 hours with stops. The start is mainly flat then it goes up and down a bit before reaching the lake. A grill spot with views, a simple restaurant serving regional products and 2 self-service alpine cheese dairies are found along the route. Good to Know: They only accept cash and sometimes the TWINT app.
Getting to the Trail
The trip up the mountain starts at Linthal in the Glarus valley. This valley branches off just before Lake Walen (Walensee) and is reached by exiting the main motorway from Zürich at Glarus/Näfels (No. 44 off-ramp). The region, which includes the UNESCO World Heritage Sardona Tectonic Arena, is called Glarnerland.
Good to Know: The national public transport system (sbb.ch) offers a combi-deal – a discount when booking the complete trip through them. Get more information here.
Directions are as follows:
At Linthal Braunwaldbahn take the funicular to the car-free village of Braunwald.
Walk approx. 10-minutes to the Hüttenberg – Grotzenbüel gondola
When arriving at the Grotzenbüel ski and hiking area, look for the yellow sign (with white/red/white mountain trail markings) to OberblelgiseeRundweg.
The hiking trail ends at the Luchsingen gondola station that will take back down the valley to the Brunnenberg train station.
For more details on the funicular, gondolas(operating times), hiking trail and what time of year to do it see the Getting There section below.
The Trail
Distance: 8 km (from gondola to gondola)
Takes: approx. 3 hrs with stops.
Ascent: 77 m
Descent: 540 m
After leaving the top station of the Grotzenbüel gondola, the first part of the walk is alongside rolling pastures and forested areas with great views of the mountain range on the other side of the valley.
In the summer the dairy farms are busy making dairy products that can be enjoyed at small restaurants and Käserei (cheese dairies) throughout the whole walk.
Walking in the Glarus Mountains to Oberblegi Lake (Oberblegisee)
A lovely thick forest with wild mushrooms and ferns opens out to a wide valley. From here the trail winds uphill to a pretty little Beizli (small farm restaurant) which has a small but very tasty menu of local ingredients.
Then the wonderful Lake Oberblegisee with plenty of places for a picnic or, if you are brave, a swim.
Getting There
Hüttenberg-Grotzenbüel gondola also runs in winter for winter sports
Take the LinthalValley to Braunwaldfunicular, then walk to Hüttenberg for the gondola to Grotzenbüel to begin the walk (1,559 m).
The trail ends at the Brunnenberg cable car that travels down to the Luchsingen Valley.
In the warmer months, this alpine valley in the Swiss Alps is accessible by bus and on foot. In winter when the valley is covered in snow it is possible to do the legendary 5.5 km sled run from Grosse Scheidegg, down through the valley to Schwarzwaldalp.
The Bernese Oberland offers some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in Europe while quietly keeping the Alpine farming traditions and heritage alive. When walking in the upper valley that runs between Meiringen to Grindelwald, you feel as if you have come to a truly authentic part of Switzerland. This valley offers vistas of mighty peaks, moorlands, mossy forests, tiny hamlets with traditional farms, and country Inns.
The sound of cowbells, the wild Rychenbach river, waterfalls and the sing song warning from the Post Bus as it navigates the tight bends on the valley road all remind you exactly where you are – so typically Swiss.
Where to Start
Summer
From Meiringen – Daily bus services from 18th May 2023 – 22 October 2023
Option 1: Walking the official Via Alpina trail which rises 400m/3 km from Meiringen township to the valley.
Option 2: Take the nostalgic cog railway up this section. This runs alongside the very famous 300-metre-high Reichenbach Falls. Made famous by Arthur Conan Doyle’s short story The Final Problem where Sherlock Holmes and Professor Moriarty fight on the ledge overlooking the falls.
Winter
From Meiringen – The bus timetable can be found at postauto.ch.
Toboggan Run: 5.5 km sled run from Grosse Scheidegg down to Schwarzwaldalp, then bus back to Meiringen.
Distances
Meiringen – Grosse Scheidegg Pass
Length: 15km Ascent: 1400m (from top of cog train 1,100 m)
Grosse Scheidegg Pass – Grindelwald
Length: 8km Descent: 930 m
Ways of seeing the area – from May to October
From mid-May to mid-October the yellow post buses help you getthrough the valley.
Options: 1. Walk 2. Take the bus 3. Walk and take the bus
There are plenty of places on the walk which move away from the road. Even so, there are around 10 bus stops along the route from the top of Reichenbach Fallsin Meiringen to Grosse Scheidegg.
The Grindelwald Bus goes from Grosse Scheidegg down to Grindelwald, taking about 30 mins.
Good to Know:Private cars are not allowed to drive over the Grosse Scheidegg Pass without a permit.
Pit Stops
The lovingly restored 18th-century Rosenlaui Hotel (12th May – 15th October) comes as a big surprise when seeing it for the first time. Up until arriving at this point we only saw traditional buildings. I thought we had perhaps taken the wrong turn and were heading into Grindelwald or Interlaken but no, this lovely and inviting Inn is in the middle of this valley.
Standing at the entrance to the Rosenlaui Gorge, this well-preserved hotel was built after an influx of 18th-century artists and poets fell in love with the region and needed somewhere to stay.
Note: There are no TVs or wifi in the building and there is a photo-free zone in all public areas. I didn’t realise this when taking the photo above…
The track starts in Willingen in Meiringen and climbs approx. 300 metres to the alpine valley alongside the Reichenbach Falls. The other option, the very civilised historical cog railway built in 1899, slowly takes you up the steep slope to the edge of the falls.
We used the cog railway for this walk for two reasons – a better view of the falls and an easy start to the 1,100-metre ascent to Grosse Scheidegg (we were determined to do this section without taking the bus).
Starting the walk
From the pretty village of Zwirgi, the trail goes gradually uphill through a forest beside the road, and for a short time, on the road. The track then leads deeper into the forest and then out to wide meadows with the iconic Wellhorn mountain dominating the skyline.
This grill has the best views you could ask for. I loved the rustic wooden shelter which seemed to have everything needed for a grill – seating, frypans, tongs and even an axe! We were tempted to stop but knew the Rosenlaui Hotel was close. We really felt like a cold drink, so after taking a few photos we moved on.
The Rosenlaui Hotel is gorgeous – lovely staff and an amazing setting. After a quick look at the little waterfall on the grounds of the Hotel (the waiter kindly let us know it was there), we made our way past the Rosenlaui Glacier Gorgeentrance – (a possible side trip), through a very mossy forest to the little hamlet of chalets at Schwarzwaldalp.
The final stage of this walk passes through wild woodlands with jaw-dropping views of the Wellhorn mountains and the Wetterhorn.
At this point of the walk, the trail becomes very steep but luckily there are plenty of benches for resting and refueling.
We celebrated our achievement with a drink at the Berghotel Grosse Scheidegg, then caught the bus to Grindelwald. This 30-minute bus ride can be seriously panoramic – depending on the weather.
There are plenty of other walks from Grosse Scheidegg. A couple of options:
Continue down the valley to complete stage 10 of the Via Alpina trail.
Across to First with views of majestic mountains Eiger, Schreckhorn and Wetterhorn. (First also offers one of Grindelwald’s top five adventures – flying across a sun terrace while strapped into a harness).
Links to Swiss Mobility Map
Swiss Mobility has a well-detailed map with a height profile and tips on saving altitude. A link to the complete Stage 10 of the Via Alpina trail (Meiringen – Grindelwald) can be found here. It is possible to continue onwards by following the Via Alpina – offical walking route number 1. This Route crosses 14 Alpine passes, with a distance of 390 km and has 20 stages.
Exploring the Swiss region of Engelberg is a perfect way to lift your spirits while witnessing the living traditions found throughout the rugged mountainous region. A walking trail through the Engelberger Aa River Valley passes through farming meadows, past waterfalls and cheese dairies and, in the warmer months, cows munching on wildflowers.
As soon as you reach the top of the Fürenalp gondola, deep in the Engelberg valley, the views are instantly staggering with a wall of rugged mountains, a deep valley and pretty meadows all around. Switzerland’s signature bright yellow hiking signposts point to the dirt trails that wind around corners and up hills hinting at the possibilities of more spectacular panoramas.
My family and I travelled on the Fürenalp gondola in late summer when slate grey clouds were threatening us from a distance. We knew it was just a matter of time before they rolled in, bringing heavy rain and stormy weather. We had just enough time to get up the small gondola and have a quick look around. For me this was a good opportunity to show my two teenagers that this would be an exciting place to explore and hike around in the coming days of our holiday – it worked. They both made me promise we would come back for a proper hike the next day.
Stäuber Waterfall Panoramic Hike
A lovely downhill hiking trail is the Stäuber panorama hike(9.2 km, 3 hours, medium difficulty). It starts at the top of the Fürenalp gondola (1,850 m) and gradually winds down through rocky meadows and pastures that, during the warmer months, are home to wildflowers and cattle. At the Stäuber waterfall, the trail turns back towards Engelberg it then runs along theriver valley,back to the Fürenalp car park with an alternative shorter version using the smaller Äbnet gondola.
All in one – wildflowers, cows, waterfalls and mountains. Photo by A.Leggett
Good to Know: The high-altitude grazing and wildflower diet give the cow’s milk and the cheese a special flavour – so it is worth trying out a cheese platter at one of the mountain dairies or restaurants.
Making our way down to the valley from Fürenalp. Photo by A.Leggett
The path eventually reaches a small cluster of buildings that are made up of the Surenen Kaserei (cheese dairy) and Usser Äbnet cable car– a possible shortcut option.
Äbnet Bahn, Alpkäse trail.Image from Engelberg Tourism
This shortcut would mean missing out on the lovely Stäuber waterfall that is tucked into the landscape at the turning point of this walk. From here there are also further walks to the wild Surenen Pass.
Looking towards the Surenen Pass with the pretty Stäuber waterfall below. Photo by A.Leggett
The waterfall is the point where the trail heads back toward Engelberg and Fürenalp cable car valley station. After zig-zagging down to the valley and passing over trickling springs, the trail runs alongside the wide, shallow Engelberger Aa River.
Hay-making involves special gondolas that help transport large bundles of hay down the steep terrain. Some of these “Burdi” (bale of hay in Swiss German) weigh around 60 kg so the farmers need all the help they can get with this back-breaking job.
Shaded spots can be found alongside the river.Photo by A.Leggett
We found this picnic spot by the river – massive boulders and trees provided lounging areas and shade.
From here the path passes some places offering food and drink (see below) and then crosses fields before reaching the cable car station’s carpark and bus stop – beware of the paragliders landing. I remember running through the fields to get out of their way (probably not a good idea) before finishing the walk – a last burst of energy. Am sure we didn’t need to worry, they seemed to have their landings all under control.
It is obviously important to respect the natural environment and farming areas by sticking to the trails. The farmers that graze their stock around the meadows in this area work hard to ensure the natural environment is protected, therefore, any visitors to the area need to do the same thing.
Food stops and other activities in the area
Alp Käserei and Beizli – (alpine cheese dairies and small restaurants)
The alpine cheese dairies (Alpkäserei) can be found dotted throughout the mountains in this region (open from mid-May to October) with the dairy products coming straight from the cows seen in the surrounding meadows. Two found on this hike areSurenenAlpkäserei which is part of the Äbnet gondola´s top station and Alpkäserei & Berggasthaus Stäfelitucked away in the valley.
Bouldering at Äbnet:Image from Engelberg-Titlis Tourism
For the more adventurous there are Klettergärten (rock climbing areas), a rope park (Seilpark) and, for experienced climbers, the Via Ferrata climb which offers a much more challenging way of reaching the Fürenalp mountain restaurant.
The Engelberger Valley is farmed in a way that is in harmony with the landscape. Because of the steep alpine pastures, it is only possible to do the cutting, raking, and bundling of hay manually – a system of farming that also contributes to the land’s biodiversity and protection.
Often the slopes on the Stanserhorn, Haldigrat and around Engelberg are even too steep for grazing – not sure how they discovered that – a cow avalanche maybe?
The Buiräbähnli gondolas are heavily relied on by farmers around the Engelberg valley. Photo by A.Leggett
The tradition of manually cutting, with hand sharpened scythes, and transporting the hay for the coming winter is known as “wild haymaking”. For hundreds of years, strong farmers have risked life and limb to work on the steep slopes high up from the valley floor and small open gondolas that look like awkwardly formed trailers have been relied on for shifting the hay, milk containers and sometimes people. These rustic lifts are called “Buiräbähnli” – a word that is almost impossible to pronounce by anyone that is not Swiss. If you look hard enough you will find them all over – their lines stretching up hills, mountains and across wide rivers beds. Nowadays it is possible to have a ride in some of the enclosed Buiräbähnliif you have a good head for heights.
Zürich Main Station:– Train to Engelberg (change at Lucerne) and shuttle bus from Engelberg to Fürenalp, 2 hours 15 mins. Check bus timetable on fürenalp.ch website as limited service in autumnand no service during the winter months.
LucerneMain Station:– Train to Engelberg and shuttle bus from Engelberg to Fürenalp, 1 hour 15 mins. Check bus timetable on fürenalp.ch website as limited service in Autumnand no service during the winter months.
By Car to Fürenalp gondola carpark:
Zürich centre:– 90km via A4, around 1 hour 20 mins depending on traffic
Zürich– Weesen(lakeside): Car – approx. 45 mins (63 km) on A3; Train – from Zürich main station it takes 1 hour, changing at Ziegelbrücke.
Walenseein Spring
In my opinion Spring is the best time to visit Walensee (Lake Walen). At this time of year the meadows are bursting with wildflowers and the Seerenbach falls are at their best with water gushing from a height of 600m down the cliff, spraying anything or anyone in its path. The sound of crickets and cow bells can be heard when crossing the meadows, and birdsong takes over when entering the forest paths.
The walk to Quinten with the option of a boat trip back
There is a wonderful 10.5 km hiking trail that starts in the town of Weesen, found at the western edge of the lake. From here it is possible to walk along the edge of the lake, through tunnels, meadows and forests and along a wooded cliff face before reaching the pretty town of Quinten (and the option to carry on to Au).
The Hike
The hike can be started from the centre of the town, or further down the northern side of the lake. This narrow road is popular with pedestrians who want to get to the various lakeside picnic spots or eateries that are found along this section. The lakeside area abruptly stops at a cliff face which seems to rise out of the lake shore.
From here it is only possible to continue by going through a narrow tunnel carved into the rock. Once through, the cliff face curves back again, giving space for a one-lane road. This is a great place to walk with one more tunnel before reaching Betlis. Cars are only allowed to travel through the tunnels at 30 minute intervals. This is made clear on a sign close to the tunnels‘ entrances.
Good to Know: When driving, you can park before the tunnels or at Betlis where the road ends. This will shorten the walk by around 2-3 km.
Swimming and BBQs – with both simple stone circles or proper grills and seating – you choose
The main trail starts from Betlis, an area with trees and meadows that slightly juts out into the lake. Betlis has BBQ spots, a swimming area, an ancient Roman Fort and a farm restaurant – Landgasthof Paradiesli. The ferry also stops here for travelling on the lake.
There is an option to dip inland for a close up of the impressive Seerenbachfalls. A signpost just back from the waterfall shows the way to Quinten.
After the waterfalls, the trail is often pretty steep with rocky, uneven paths that wind through forests and along wooded cliff faces – always with great lake and mountain views. There are some grilling possibilities and benches in and around the trees – good for a break from the steep path.
Quinten – arriving from the hiking path and leaving on the boat
The walk then descends steeply before reaching the vineyards at the lovely village of Quinten with its lush gardens and beautiful views. Here you can find a couple of restaurants with lake-side garden bars.
The Boat Trip Back
The boat leaves from here for a relaxing trip back to Weesen – See if you can spot the hiking path you just walked on – its really well hidden and I always have problems finding it.
Important to know – During the in between season (mid April – end of May) the ferries only operate on certain days – See below for a link to the Walensee boat website which has a PDF timetable.
Geneva – green spaces, culture & life around Lake Geneva
Switzerland’s Historical Steamboats
The historical steamboats are the pride of the waterways. From the turn of the century, they have been on the itineraries of royalty and heads of state. Well preserved and well-oiled, these impressive ships can be seen slowly chugging their way around several of Switzerland’s most beautiful lakes.
Thanks to state-of-the-art restoration efforts, they have managed to find a way to keep the original designs by using modern technology. For example, a defective part of the Lake Thun Steam Boat DS Lötschberg was scanned, a mould was made and then printed using 3D technology so that the defective part could be recast.
Apart from the inner workings, careful attention has also been put into rejuvenating the stylish design features of all these ships, returning them to their original glory.
The Comangnie Générale de Navigation sur le Lac Léman SA is responsible for the Belle Epoque Fleet – the largest and most prestigous of its type in the world. The paddlewheel steamboats were commissioned between 1904 and 1927, with gorgeous decorations, elegant sweeping lines and large paddle wheels – these steamboats are impressive to cruise on or to watch from the region’s beautiful lakeside villages, vineyards and beaches found spread across Lake Geneva.
There are 35 landing stations spread around the lake for all kinds of boats and ships – with the Belle Epoque fleetservicing a large portion of them. The timetable for all boats that are run by CGN can be found on their website here, or download the general timetableof the CGN. The little half-circle, paddlewheel motif shows which routes are serviced by the steamboats.
Examples of Routes are:
Geneva – Yvoire – Nyon – Geneva
Lausanne – St. Gingolph – Chillon – Montreux – Lausanne
Lausanne – Morges – Yvoire and return
Lausanne – Vevey – Montreux – Chillon and return
ABVL – The Association Friends of Steam Boats on Lake Geneva
For anyone interested in the inner workings and renovation history of the Lake Geneva 8 steamships, the ABVL does a digital magazine that offers all sorts of tidbits and articles on the fleet. A page called ‘Introduction to the Eight Ships and their History’ details, amongst other things, their structure, fittings, capacity, historical stories, and of course, great photos. I can guarantee that you will want to go for a cruise after reading this article.
Three Lakes Region – Neuchâtel, Murten & Bienne
Small and agile – perfect for the canals that link the three lakes. Photo by A. Leggett
DS Neuchâtel
The DS Neuchâtel, the last half saloon steamship in Switzerland, cruises its way around the three lakes of the Plateau Central (Mittelland). Thanks to its small size, this boat can also travel on the two canals linking the lakes with room to pass under the canal’s bridges. It also has the special honour of being the only steamboat able to maneuver on a canal or river in Switzerland.
The DS Neuchâtel was built in 1912 and sailed until 1969, when it became a ship restaurant in the port of Neuchâtel. It was fully renovated over a 3 year period and started sailing again in 2014. This ship has 300 seats, including 90 for a restaurant (divided into 2 lounges). It is also possible to view the vessel’s steam engine.
How to get onboard the three lakes
For more information go to the Société de Navigation sur les Lacs de Neuchâtel et Morat website. The summer timetable shows the months of operation for 2022 from 14 May to 25 September – Wednesday to Sunday – and the route numbers of the Vapeur Neuchâtel/Dampfschiff Neuchâtel/steamboat Neuchâtel (page 6).
It would pay to go to the Neuchâtel, Murten or Biel/Bienne harbour ticket counter for further information.
There are 5 historic paddle steamers in Lake Lucerne’s fleet of 19 boats and ships. The leader of the pack is the stately flagship Stadt Luzern. Built in 1928, it is the largest and most impressive of the fleet. Travelling on this ship is a wonderful experience with its art deco saloon, huge deck area and imposing wide funnel – like a huge black cherry on top of the white frosted layer cake.
Guestlist of the Stadt Luzern
The Stadt Luzern has had an impressive guest list such as General Henri Guisan and the entire Swiss Army office corps who sailed from Lucerne to the Rütli meadow for an important military conference during a precarious wartime moment, following the fall of France.
Evita Perón, the extremely famous wife of Argentinian president Juan Perón set sail in 1947 during an official visit, and to add to the prestige guest list, Queen Elizabeth II went for an alpine cruise in May 1980. In honour of her visit, the ship’s upper deck lounge was renamed “Queen’s Salon”.
Renovationand Rejuvenation
Over 80,000 hours of labour and 13.3 million francs were invested into the renovation of the Stadt Luzern. From May 2021 the ship returned to public service on Lake Lucerne.
How to get onboard – Lake Lucerne
Culinary cruises – Wine & Dine 1 x per month from May to October (DS Stadt Luzern)
Jazz and Dine – weekly from the beginning of August to the beginning of September (DS Stadt Luzern)
Lucerne – Beckenried – Lucerne – see the timetablesfor steamboat operating times (steamboat icon – note: see limits to days of operation in small print*).
Lucerne – Flüelen – Lucerne, minimum 2 x daily from May to October Tip: this service stops at the lovely town of Brunnen.
Sunset Cruise– end of May to mid -September (either a steamboat or the modern MS Diamant)
*Good to Know: When looking at the timetable, a mini steamboat symbol above a route means that one of the paddle steamers is normally used for that particular route. The highlighted symbol means steamboats are only used on weekends and public holidays, or daily at peak season times – at other times a motorboat is used. Of course, this is all subject to change – for exact and up-to-date details go to the timetables.
Zürich
Stadt Zürich paddle steamer after a steam clean. Photo by A.Leggett
DS Stadt Zürich (1909) & DS Stadt Rapperswil (1914)
The Stadt Zürich steamboat is the oldest in the ZSG fleet, but both of the well-maintained steamboats have all the traditional fittings that you would expect from a Belle Epoque paddle steamer.
The Lake Zürich Navigation Company has a fleet of 17 boats and is part of the public transport service for Zürich canton. This is a big bonus if you are spending time in Zürich as you can travel on the lake, as an alternative to taking the train or tram to get around the city – and not pay anything extra (make sure you are staying within the zones of your return ticket, also known as a day card).
Many times I have walked down the lakeside on a sunny day and then taken the boat back to the city. I definitely recommend it – there is a great view of the mountains on a clear day. A special timetable is available showing which boat or ship will be used for which route so, if you time it right, you can easily manage to cruise the lake on either the DS Stadt Zürich or DS Stadt Rapperswil – both start operating in April and finish in September (see below for timetable link).
How to get onboard– Lake Zürich
These historic paddle steamers operate regularly from 2rd April to 22rd October 2023 – on scheduled cruises. The schedule of all boats can be accessed 4 to 5 days in advance by going to the Allocation of Boats page on the zsg.ch website.
For Something a Bit Different:
The Unique Cruises (mostly motorboats) run throughout the year. They offer all sorts of cruises with onboard entertainment and experiences such as a murder mystery(german),80s party, mind reading (german), silent party and international cuisine cruises. I like the sound of the 80s party one myself…
Bernese Oberland’s Lakes – Thun and Brienz
The extraordinary colours of both Lake Brienz and Lake Thun in the Bernese Oberland are beautiful, sitting amongst some of the best alpine scenery in the country. They’re a popular base for tourists because of their proximity to the famous Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau mountains, the towns of Interlaken and Grindelwald and the magical Lauterbrünnen Valley.
Lötschberg– Lake Brienz
DSLötschberg – Image supplied by – BLS Shifffahrt
The DS Lötschberg was recently overhauled by a specialised restoration team who have a passion for preserving as many of the original features as possible – from the large anchor and decking to the small hidden compartments – all have their own special story to tell. An article in the Swiss Info news website explains the detective work that was done on this steamer to uncover some surprising stories of the past.
Blümlisalp– Lake Thun
DS Blümlisalp – Photo by Jeroen Seyffer Fotografie BLS – supplied by BLS Schifffahrt 2020
The Blümlisalp is a double-decker saloon steamer from the Belle Epoque with modern technology and a double-decker saloon. There is lots of polished wood and a panoramic restaurant on the upper deck.
How to get onboard – Lakes Thun & Brienz
The steamers start operating mid-May through to October. The BLS timetable has the option to search forms of transport such as boats, trains (or car ferry if relevant). The word “steamer” and a steamboat icon show which routes use a steamboat (same price as a motorboat).
The pretty little Greif steamboat is the oldest steamboat in Switzerland and the only passenger ship in the country that is fired with coal. It operates on the second largest lake in Canton Zürich – Lake Greifensee.
The fall and rise of the Greif steamboat
The Greif was built in 1895 by the Escher Wyss shipbuilding company in Zurich. Because coal became scarce after the outbreak of World War I and maintenance was expensive, like many other ships, the Greif steamboat coal fire was replaced by an engine. In 1979 the original Greif steam machine reappeared again and the historical boat was restored to its original design and declared worthy of protection by the cantonal monument preservation authorities. Finally, in 1988, the Greif was once again operating as a steamboat.
On Lake Greifensee through time
“Greif” can hold 24 passengers and crosses the lake for round trips from the end of April to mid-October on Sundays and public holidays and can be booked for individual tours during the week (e.g. birthdays, family celebrations for a maximum of 24 people). Timetables, contact details and reservation info can be found on the website of Greif steamboat.
The video below gives an idea of what is so special about little Greif and also the pretty lake it cruises on.
Getting to the port at Maur, on the edge of Greifensee
By Car: Zürich – Maur: 25-30 mins from central Zürich (14 km)
By Public Transport: with train and bus – 39 – 47 mins with changes (see sbb.ch for timetable – Zürich to Maur(See))
Other activities on and around Greifensee such as paddle boats, swimming, walking and grilling can be found on my Zurich Canton/lakes page.
Stein am Rhein in canton Schaffhausen Photo by A.Leggett
When searching for a place to lift your spirits, you can’t go wrong with these well-preserved and authentic Swiss towns found in the northern regions. The countryside from Geneva in the west to St. Gallen in the east is made up of farmland, hills, mountain ranges, lakes of all sizes and river valleys. Within this area north of the alps, there are plenty of medieval towns – each with its own special appeal. Here are some discoveries of mine:
Picturesque Villages en route from Geneva to St. Gallen
1. Saint Saphorin
From Geneva to Lausanne – driving distance: 66 km – train journey time: express trains 35-45 mins/ region trains 48 mins.For regional train services from Vevey to the vineyard villages see the Regional Train info below.
Saint Saphorin is just one example of over 15 unspoiled villages found within a UNESCO World Heritage landscape known as the Lavaux terraces found on the edge of Lake Geneva. The residents of these villages have been working together in harmony with the landscape for hundreds of years, keeping the viticulture traditions alive. The continued success of growing grapes in this region is helped along by the favourable climatic conditions known as the “three suns” – the sun itself, the sun’s rays reflected by the lake and the warmth stored in the walls of the vineyards.
This pretty lakeside village is found between the lively town of Montreux and the city of Lausanne – an area known as the Montreux Riviera.
The Village
St. Saphorin is known for its winding cobbled alleyways and narrow back streets. The jumble of little houses, vaulted doors and archways date back to medieval times when the town used to be a fortified village. The ruins of a Gallo-Roman villa can be found in the basement of the reformed church and are listed as Swiss cultural assets of national importance.
Good to Know: St. Saphorin has been a member of the Association, “The Most Beautiful Villages in Switzerland”, since 2016.
The Region
There are networks of walking and biking trails as well as panorama, express and local train lines that snake their way across the landscape.
Regional Trains
The regional train service passes through the towns of Epesses,Rivaz, Saint-Saphorin,Vevey then Vevey to Chexbres offering a great sightseeing alternative. Visit sbb.ch for more information. The SBB website also offers maps for each service – in the timetable page add from/to then click on the departure time. The map link is shown in the This Connection box. It‘s a great way to visualise the villages and train lines.
Lavaux UNESCO Vineyard Walk
This 10 km circular walk links the region’s villages of Chexbres, Saint-Saphorin, Rivax and Epesses and can be started from any of the villages’ train stations. For more information go to the Vaud Tourism website which offers both a detailed map and guide to the walk, or you can download the Vaud: Guide – a free app that guides you around the route. The App also offers informative tidbits along the way and doesn’t require an internet connection – GPS is used.
Fitness level and accessibility
Accessible to people with average fitness – the paths are all paved and are pushchair and wheelchair friendly although there are some steep parts.
From Lausanne – driving distance: 57 km – train journey time: 1 hr 15 mins (2 changes).
Gruyères village; Photo by A.Leggett
The village of Gruyères is popular with tourists; not what my blog is about, but I had to include it, as it’s so pretty! The historical centre is set apart from the train station and suburban areas by its position high up on the slope of a hill, with the lovely 13th Century Gruyères castle at the highest point.
This centre is car-free, with a wide cobbled space between the rows of elegant buildings. You will find cafes, restaurants, boutique shops, souvenir shops and fountains here, as well as lovely views of the Fribourg and La Gruyère regions. One of the best places to see the Alps is from from the castle’s gardens.
Historyand Legend
According to legend, Gruyères was founded in 400 B.C. by the Vandal King Gruerius. He saw a crane (“grue” in French) flying across the crimson evening sky and decided to build his town on that spot. The coat of arms of Gruyères depicts a crane on a red background. The town and castle were once home to the counts of Gruyère. Over the centuries battles were won and then badly lost but the castle still looks as good as new.
Sights in the area
There are also plenty of wonderful things to do in the area – that are more off the beaten track.
Walk through the Gorges de la Jogne – narrow gorge with limestone rock formations and lush green surroundings. The river Jaun swirls through this gorge and can be viewed from the walkways, bridges and tunnels in the rock.
Visit the modern Les Bains de la Gruyère (Thermal Baths) in the pretty baroque town of Charmey. Note:The website is currently only in French and phones are strictly prohibited from being used in the bathing area.
Visit the alpine village of Jaun, the only German-speaking village in the area, with its chalets and lovely waterfall that flows out of the limestone hillside. Is a great starting point for hiking and skiing.
In winter visit the ski resorts found in both Jaunand Charmey.
From Neuchâtel – driving distance: 30 km via A5 (approx. 30 mins) – train journey time: 21 mins.
The well-preserved town of Murten, on the edge of a lake of the same name, is part of the three-lake-region found close to Lake Geneva. The historic town centre has large arches and pretty fountains dating back to the 15th century. The town opens out to an attractive lakefront area which is set up with ice-cream stalls, mini-golf, sunbathing lawns, swimming pool, lake swimming, boating and watersports – so is generally a nice spot for cooling off and relaxing.
This photo was taken from the old town’s rampart walls which were built in several stages from the 12th Century. Walking along these Ramparts is a fun way to see the old town, view the lake and learn a bit about the long history of the area.
Placesand events in Murten:
Historical fountains – dating back to the 15th century.
Arches and Arcades – The Baroque-styled town’s Hauptgasse (car-free main street). Arches line the cobbled streets. Certain restrictions keep the old town streets of Murten in their original state.
Moat & Towers 12 fortification towers are built into the rampart walls. Each tower’s name relates to its position and original function. There are some rather unsettling names, such as Death Tower (Totentanz), which is at the site of the first slaughterhouse, the Prison Tower and the Witches Tower…
Murten Museum – one of the oldest in canton Fribourg, is located in a former mill outside the rampart walls. The permanent exhibition illustrates 6,000 years of Murten’s history with items from everyday life & a multimedia show of the Battleof Murten.
Another lovely town on the edge of Lake Murten is Avenches – which is a member of the Most Beautiful Villages in Switzerland association – an achievement proudly mentioned on the town’s website. For more information on this town and all the activities around Lake Murten
4. Twann
From Biel/Bienne – driving distance: 8 km – train journey time: 7 mins.
From Neuchâtel – driving distance: 23 km, (20 mins) – train journey time: 22 mins.
Twann is one of several historic wine villages with unspoiled centres found around Lake Biel/Bienne. This hidden gem is all about wine with its ornate shop signs, wine cellars, shops, restaurants and impressive Vinothek Viniterra. One of the most attractive wine trails in the country, the Rebenweg, also leaves from here.
The Murals of Twann Project
4 large-scale murals carefully painted by a local artist are recent additions to Twann’s Dorfstrasse. Created in 2019, 2020, & 2021, they show seasonal work on the vines, with one mural for each season. The preparation and paintings were carefully thought out to fit in with the village and reflect the traditional practices used in the vineyards.
Site of National Importance
Lake Biel’s northern region is part of a wine protection zone and is listed as a site of national importance. This area includes several wine villages and hamlets, vineyards, stone walls and pathways. The protected villages are La Neuveville, Ligerz, Twann and Tüscherz.
5.St. Ursanne
From Biel/Bienne – driving distance: 50 – 60 km – train journey time: 48 mins, either direct or changing at Delémont.
A shuttle bus connects Saint Ursanne train station (found above the town) to the town centre. It’s also possible to walk into town from the station – about 10 minutes downhill.
Saint Ursanne is a magical place. You could see why the Irish monk Ursicinus chose this secluded spot on the Doubs for his hermit life. After a long missionary journey from Ireland to the Frankish kingdom, he is said to have settled in a grotto in the area shortly after 600 AD. About 500 years later, monks founded a monastic community at his tomb and started construction on the collegiate church (12th Century) which has been added to and changed over the years. It has beautiful Klosters and a courtyard worth visiting. If you feel like a bit of exercise, it is possible to reach the hermitage grotto of the Irish monk, however, you would need to be willing to climb over 190 steep steps.
St. Ursanne has retained its medieval charm. The arrangement of the houses (some from the 14th and 15th Century) clearly shows the course of the former city walls. Anyone who wants to get to the city centre has to go through one of the three city gates. When I visited in March 2021 the cobbled street and underground water supply were being completely renovated in fact when I walked into the town, there were hardly any cobbles – just a dirt road. I imagine it all looks pristine and pretty today and I would love to visit again soon.
Things to do in the area
The area is very enchanting with its lush forests, wild natural environment and the impressive Doubs River. Below are some ways of exploring the area:
A network of hiking trails leave directly from the train station.
Climb to the hermitage grotto of Ursicinus and the 16th-century chapel.
Discover the Doubs Nature Park – almost 300 square kilometres, from the French border.
Canoeing on the Doubs – also for beginners and families (book at the tourism officefrom 1st March – 1st October).
Other activities organised through the information centre are bike or scooter rental, football-golf, golf, archery and horse-drawn carriage rides.
While in the neighbourhood
Tour around the most beautiful villages in the Jura and Three Lakes Region
The Jura and Three-Lake-Region’s official website (j3l.ch) has put together a tour of the attractive historical towns in the region (in the Jura mountains & the Neuchâtel, Bienne and Murten lakes). This is a circular tour made up of 10 stages and is a great way to explore the region.
6. Solothurn
From Bern – driving distance: 41 km via A1 northbound, then A5 – train journey time: 37 mins.
From Biel/Bienne – driving distance: 30 km on the A5 – train journey time: 13 mins.
Considered the finest Baroque town in Switzerland, Solothurn’s streets and alleyways are lined with elegant buildings that open out to pretty courtyards and squares. Riverside cafes and restaurants with outdoor terraces line the Aare river and cycle paths wind their way along the banks. Found on the southern end of the Jura mountains, Solothurn can be reached easily from Biel/Bienne (30 km), which is found at the eastern edge of the three-lakes region.
For more information on the old-town historical buildings, activities plus sights in the region go to my canton Solothurn page.
7. Zug
From Lucerne – driving distance: 33 km via motorway – train journey time: 20-30 mins.
From Zürich–driving distance: 30 km via motorway – train journey time: 20-27 minswith express trains.
Zug’s lakefront with the old town in the distance
The main north/south highway curves around Zug and the express trains from Zürich to the south pass through Zug’s central station. Because of this, it is easy to just pass by the town in favour of the more well-known places like Zürich, Lucerne or Locarno. I had been in Switzerland for over 10 years without a visit – I would catch fleeting glimpses of the lake as the train or car whizzed by but finally decided to spend the day here to check out the old town, the lake and do a hike on the Zugerberg hill above the town. I now recommend adding Zug to your itinerary – especially when the sun is shining.
The Town
Zug regularly appears on lists as one of the best places to live in Switzerland which is partly down to its location. Zug has an attractive position on the edge of Zugersee (Lake Zug) with uninterrupted views to the foothills and alps. The old town is well preserved and its cobbled streets and alleyways lead to the lakeside. From here it is possible to wander to lakeside parks and open spaces that are great for chilling and watching the setting sun mirrored in the lake.
Rosengarten and Guggi Hill
The Rosengarten located on top of Guggi hill is a wooded meadow close to the centre which overlooks the old town and offers some great views of the town’s rooftops, spires and the mountains.
Bike Hire
Bikes are available to rent at most main train stations and during the summer months – there are some free bike rental programs.
Zug old townPhoto by A. Leggett
The old town’s clock tower
The clock tower (13th century) with its pretty blue and white striped roof tiles, dominates the historical part of the town. It is possible to climb to a viewing chamber, added in 1557, that looks out over the roofs of Zug by picking up a key from the souvenir shop underneath (a small deposit is necessary).
Tip:Zug’s waterfront location has some perfect spots for viewing the sunset. For a link to sunset times go here.
For more information about the region including Zugerberg mountain go to my canton Zug page.
8.Eglisau
From Zürich – driving distance: 26km via the A1L and A51 directly north – train journey time: 32 mins on S9 – no change.
Eglisau at sunrise
Eglisau is a well-preserved, small town north of Zürich. What makes it extra special is its position on the Rhine and the forests and vineyards that surround it. Between the forest and town centre there is a park and a historic wooden bathhouse with facilities for swimming in the Rhine – including a sunbathing lawn, 15 m long enclosed swimming area, a diving board, paddling area for kids and toilets. The bathhouse is open from May to September when the sun is shining.
From here there are some idyllic walking trails, one goes up above the vineyards overlooking the Rhine and another winds its way through a thickly forested nature reserve, alongside the river.
Good to Know: There are some good BBQ facilities found along the trail.
From Zürich – driving distance: 56 km – train journey time: Just over an hour, changing at either Schaffhausen (22 mins) or Winterthur (40 mins).
View of Stein am Rhein and Hohenklingen Castle, Photo by A. Leggett
The medieval centre of Stein am Rhein is a work of art – a description used often to describe this town. Found on the edge of the Rhein in a very picturesque location, Stein am Rhein’s historic centre has a wide pedestrian area that acts as a viewing gallery for the building’s painted facades. You will find scenes from past battles, farming traditions and even some mythical creatures. There are always a few people standing in the square, looking up with their cameras perhaps trying to understand what it all means.
Photos by A.Leggett
Activities and Eateries
Fountains of all sizes are found around the town and, in summer, restaurants and cafes offer outdoor seating shaded with large sun umbrellas. It is also possible to walk alongside, take a boat trip on or swim in the Rhine… depending on the weather and how energetic you are feeling…
For the kids, there is a small ride-along train (summer) and an adventure playground. Riverside bathing facilities (small charge) are at the west end of the town – about 10 minutes by foot.
Steps from the historical old town of Stein am Rhein to Hohenklingen Castle& the castle’s entrance. Photos by A.Leggett
Hike to a castle
If you are in the mood for a bit of an uphill hike – it is possible to walk through the vineyards and forest up to Hohenklingen castle. There is a restaurant with a terrace and viewing areas offering a great view of the old town. There are also several grill spots in a clearing alongside the castle – also with views. The walk through the castle is free.
Driving instead of walking: Hohenklingen castle is a short drive from Stein am Rhein through vineyards and the forest. There are parking options alongside the road – just follow the signposts.
10. Appenzell
From Zürich – driving distance: 100 km – train journey time: 2 hrs (1 change in Gossau)
From St.Gallen – driving distance: 20 km – train journey time: 40 mins (no change)
Pharmacy in the village of Appenzell Photo by A.Leggett
With Appenzell being the most traditional canton in Switzerland there is always something to discover – such as the villages with their picturesque buildings, the local museums and the rural art, crafts and folklore. Bold and bright colours are part of these traditions and the village of Appenzell is the perfect place to experience this.
The town of Appenzell is full of historical buildings that have been beautifully crafted with coloured panels, elegantly designed gables, paintings on the facades and ornate signs dangling from the shops and eateries.
For an overview of the region’s special history visit Museum Appenzellwhich focuses on traditional costumes, local beliefs, customs and folk art.
Shopping in Appenzell Village
There are over 60 shops in the village centre selling things like traditional crafts, alpine herb products, specialty meat, cheese and milk products, as well as the local beer and Appenzell liqueur (yum). They also do a really good job of making sweet treats that have been around for centuries like the Biber Cake (Beaver cake) – made with honey, almonds and spices. You will find quality outdoor clothing here to prepare for hiking in the hills and mountains and, of course, plenty of souvenir shops.
Landsgemeindeplatz– Local Parliament
The historic Appenzell village square or Landsgemeindeplatz is the scene each year of the local parliament (Landsgemeinde). All cantonal elections and parliamentary business are publicly debated here and voting is by a public show of hands.
Countryside & Traditions
The village of Speicher in the Appenzell’s hilly mittelland, @Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
Appenzell is surrounded by rolling hills (mittelland) dotted with traditional farmhouses and villages. The soaring, jagged peaks of the Alpstein Massif offer a stunning backdrop. It is like an adventure playground with plenty of opportunities to go hiking (summer and winter), tobogganing, riding on cable cars or just getting out into the countryside.
One of my favourite pastimes is walking around the hills of Appenzell (and, yes, the hills are alive with the sound of cowbells). It is so easy to get up and out in this region. The regional trains will drop you off at the start of one of the many hiking paths that leave from the villages or hamlets. There are trails all over the hilly countryside and, if you like a bit more of a challenge – treks in the mountainous Alpstein region. For walks in the area go to the Appenzellerland official website.
Where to experience the traditions and culture
Das Silvesterchlausen is a New Year’s tradition celebrated in the Appenzeller Hinterland und Mittelland. @Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
Many of the traditions in this area are centered around farming practices and products. Cheesemaking, haymaking and animal husbandry have been around for decades. Some of the traditions are:
Cattle drive up and down the mountains – with a procession, colourful costumes, finely crafted bells and singing – seen in spring and autumn
Yodelling and traditional music
Carnivals
Cattle shows
Colourful, ornately designed and larger-than-life costumes – worn for many occasions.
Peasant Art (Senntumsmalerei) (16th Century) – paintings depicting everyday farm life and hunting. Souvenir and art shops in the villages have all kinds of Senntumsmalerei prints such as posters, postcards, carvings and calendars to name a few.
The Appenzell Folklore Museum in Stein and the Appenzeller Brauchtum (customs) Museum in the town of Urnäsch tell the story of these paintings along with other traditions and customs.
The Appenzellerland website is a great source of information for all of the above experiences.
For some of my own experiences in this region go to my canton Appenzell page.
Acknowledgements
St. Ursanne sunset photo: susnpics at pixabay
Eglisau village image:hans-hamann-lQ3oGSpwUyY-unsplash
Forget the glitzy Swiss lakeside or mountaintop resorts, the 12 UNESCO World Heritage Sites are the real Swiss treasures. Wherever you are in Switzerland, you are bound to be close to one of these Swiss treasures thanks to the extensive Swiss public transport system, network of tunnels and the way they happen to be scattered throughout the country. Some are found near cities, or in places popular with tourists while others are much more remote and need a bit more effort to reach, however, it’s still worth adding them to your itinerary as the surrounding regions are also extraordinary.
The Irish monk Gallus laid the Abbey’s foundation stone in 612. Around 100 years later, the monastery adopted the rule of Saint Benedict and transformed it into an important centre for writing activities and book illumination. Over time, the library became one the best stocked and oldest libraries in the world – now under the care of the Abbey District, who look after the archives, the library and the cathedral.
Why a World Heritage Site?
The decision to make this Abbey complex into a UNESCO World Heritage site was down to the rich traditions and the well-preserved collections that date back to the 8th Century.
The Abbey Library
The Abbey Library at St. Gallen, photo by Switzerland Tourism
The Abbey‘s lavish Rococo library is full of treasures. Not only is it a feast for the eyes, but it also is home to around 170,000 books and some of the most important collections of medieval manuscripts in Europe – ones you may have heard about in history class for example. This collection dates back 1300 years – to when the abbey was originally founded.
In the middle of the 18th century, the abbots started a cabinet of curiosities with a collection of art, science and nature. The collection includes paintings, astronomical instruments and fossils. One example that takes pride of place is a huge terrestrial and celestial globe (1571), which is part of the ‘East India Collection’. Later additions, that stand out when you wander around the library, are the Egyptian mummies (7th century BC) which have to be seen to be believed.
Visiting the Library
The admission ticket, which is valid for three exhibitions, is recommended to be bought at the ticket office in the exhibition hall.
Getting There
The Abbey complex is made up of a Cathedral, the Abbey library and vaulted cellar, Kloster bistro, Charles‘ Gate and a government building and can be found in the lovely old town of Saint Gallen – also worth visiting for its attractive pedestrian area.
Public Transport
Zürich to St. Gallen: – 1 hr to 1 hr 13 mins, no changes.
By Car
From Zürich: – 93 km (approx. 1 hr 10 mins – 1 hr 25 mins) on the A1 motorway.
2. Benedictine Convent of St. John in Müstair
Müstair
Müstair village is tucked far away in the Val Müstair, found deep in the most eastern part of Graubünden, close to the border with Italy. In the local Romansch, the language unique to Graubünden, Müstair is equivalent to Minster in English – both correspond to the word monastery.
The Monastery Complex
The monastery complex was founded in the 8th Century and is steeped in legend and mystery. According to a well-known legend, Charlemagne was responsible for the founding of the convent. It is said that he was so grateful for his survival after walking away unharmed from a large snowstorm in the area, that he gave instructions for the monastery to be constructed. This complex has only been partially destroyed over the centuries and now has building styles and art treasures from several eras. Nuns have lived in the convent since the 12th century. Convent life, cultivation, the museum and the restoration come together, turning this site into something very special.
Convent Museum
The convent’s museum can be found in the monastery’s fortified Planta Tower (10th century). It holds over 1200 years of art and cultural history within its walls. The Benedictine nuns of Müstair also allow visitors a glimpse inside the convent to see their daily life.
Museum visit
The museum is very atmospheric, giving an authentic peek into the convents past, starting in the cloister, then going through to the vast cellar of the Planta Towerbefore continuing up three floors. A ‘convent within the convent’ is housed in the tower and has living areas, sleeping quarters and prayer areas.
UNESCO World Heritage Site
A deciding factor for listing the complex as a UNESCO World Heritage Site was down to the wonderfully preserved frescos found in the convent church which dates back to the early middle ages. These are considered to be one of the largest and best-preserved fresco cycles around today.
Found in canton Graubünden, the Rhaetian Railway brings together two historic railway lines that cross the Swiss Alps through two passes – Albula and Bernina.
AlbulaPass Line
Opened in 1904, the Albula line in the northwestern part is 67 km long and features an impressive set of structures including 42 tunnels, covered galleries and 144 viaducts and bridges.
Bernina Pass Line
The 61 km Bernina pass line winds its way through 13 tunnels and galleries and over 52 viaducts and bridges.
Achievements
The railway was built to overcome the isolation of settlements in the Central Alps early in the 20th century. Today these two lines are now a single transalpine line.
The complete Rhaetian Line shows outstanding technical, architectural, environmental and civil engineering achievements which have resulted in the railway lines staying in harmony with the natural landscapes they pass through.
This description was sourced by text from whc.unesco.org, under license CC-BY-SA IGO 3.0.
Bernina Express & Glacier Express Panorama Trains
Good to Know: A great opportunity to discover the World Heritage line and visit some incredible landscapes is to travel on theBernina Expresspanorama train. This service runs all year from Chur to Thusis, then along the World Heritage route, through to the Poschiavo Valley with its dramatic alpine scenery, and then on to Tirano, Italy. The Glacier Express runs from Zermatt, through the Rheinschlucht (known as the Grand Canyon of Switzerland), with various stops, then finally down through the Albula Pass – running for 10 months of the year (no service from mid-Oct to mid-Dec).
The line of the Rhaetian railway between Thusis and Tirano (Italy) – World Heritage route.
Getting There
Public Transport
To Thusis: from Chur – 30-35 mins without changes. From Zürich – approx. 2 hrs 10 mins, changing at Chur.
By Car from Chur – 26 km (approx. 22 mins on Autobahn). From Zürich – 144 km (approx. 1 hr 30 mins on Autobahn).
4. Old city of Berne
Bern’s old town status as a World Heritage site is down to its impressive town planning along with the continuous restoration and protection of the medieval structure and buildings.
Bern’s Historical Centre
The city of Bern was built in the 12th Century on a hillside surrounded by the Aare River. It was developed with a special design made up of long rows of buildings, shaped to fit into the curve of the river. 15th-century arcades and 16th-century fountains were added and, in the 18th Century, most of the medieval centre was restored but, luckily, it has retained its original character which includes the many elegant arches that can be found throughout.
Nowadays, the old town of Bern has the longest covered shopping arcade in Europe – great news for rainy days!
The Mighty Bear
You will probably discover the symbol of Bern quite quickly – the mighty bear. It’s found on the canton’s flag, the sides of buildings and in the souvenir shops, in fact, bears have been kept in Bern for hundreds of years, finally moved from the city to Bear Pits on the banks of the Aare river in 1857… This controversial home finally changed in 2009 when a large park was built for them. The much-needed new habitat is designed on several levels and includes a section of the riverbank, leafy green spaces, tunnels and caves for hibernation. You can see them from high up on the Nydegg Bridge (at the end of the old town) or close up from the park. For more information and webcams go to the park’s website here.
Zytglogge (clock tower)
Zytglogge clock tower
This iconic clock tower has been around for centuries and has had many uses, including a prison.
Every hour, on the hour, there is a display of dancing bears, a court jester and a rooster doing their thing on the outside of the clock tower – attracting crowds of tourists to this part of the old town in summer.
Clock Tower Tour
The inside isn’t open for individual visits but it’s possible to do a 1-hour tour to see the inner workings and learn about its past. Public tours don’t run daily and are limited to once a week in winter, so it pays to check out the website and book before going. Good to Know: There are 130 steps to the top but you are rewarded with a view of Bern’s old town, and the Alps (weather permitting).
Getting There
Public Transport
To Bern Main Station: From Basel – 1 hr 5 mins, express trains with no change. Zürich – 1 hr – 1 hr 35 mins, express trains with no change. Lucerne – 1 hr 6 mins – 1 hr 30 mins (dep. on service), no change.
By Car
Central Bern:Basel – 95 km (approx 1 hr 10 mins). Zürich via A1 – 125 km (approx. 1 hr 30 mins). Lucerne via A2 & A1 – 110 km (approx 1 hr 20 mins).
The medieval castles of Bellinzona – Castelgrande, Montebello and Sasso Corbaro – have been listed as a Swiss UNESCO World Heritage since 2000. They are found in the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino, south of the Alps and are impossible to miss when passing through. Castelgrande sits on a rocky peak with fortified walls running from the castle, built to protect the ancient town and block passage through the valley. The castle of Montebello was built as part of this fortification, whereas Sasso Corbaro stands alone on another rocky high point.
A bit of history
Bellinzona occupied a strategic position between north and south which is the reason these castles were built in the first place. The Dukes of Milan went to a lot of trouble to bar the Swiss from travelling south into his territory.
Over the centuries, the castles have been reconstructed and restored many times. Evidence has been found that fortifications were built on this site in the 4th Century B.C, however, the three castles and their walls were constructed in the 14th Century.
Good to Know: There was once an Alpine Arc of medieval military architecture comprising of several castles, linked by a wall that once closed off the whole Ticino Valley for the protection of the civilian population. The Swiss Confederates must have been quite a threat for them to go to such lengths. These castles and fortifications are the only remaining visible evidence of this Arc.
Further Information
Bellinzona & Valli website for open times and booking tickets (including information on the Bellinzona Pass and Railway combi ticket – both offer price reductions)- Note: Castelgrande is the only castle open during the winter.
Locations of Bellinzona Train Station and the 3 Castles
The vineyard terraces spread out on the steep slopes above Lake Geneva were originally created during the 11th century by monks. Generations of wine growers have been taking care of them ever since. The original terraces and stone walls that stretch for over 30 km have been carefully preserved, fitting seamlessly into the steep, wide slopes that rise up from the soft blue waters of Lake Geneva.
Vineyardsand seeing the Villages
Known as the Lavaux vineyards, the UNESCO vineyard terraces are found between Lausanne and Montreux and are home to 14 unspoiled villages. Residents of this area have been working together in harmony with the landscape for hundreds of years.
The vineyards benefit from the “three suns” – the sun itself, the sun’s rays reflected by the lake and the warmth stored in the walls of the vineyards.
There are networks of walking and biking trails as well as panorama, express and local train lines that snake their way across the landscape.
Some good ways to experience the area are:
Lavaux UNESCO Vineyard Walk
St. Saphorin village in the Lavaux Region
This 10 km circular walk links the region’s villages of Chexbres, Saint-Saphorin, Rivax and Epesses and can be started from any of the villages’ train stations. For more information go to the Vaud Tourism website which offers both a detailed map and guide to the walk, or you can download the Vaud: Guide – a free app that guides you around the route. The App also offers informative tidbits along the way and doesn’t require an internet connection – GPS is used.
You can hop on/off the regional train line that runs along Lake Geneva, shortening the circuit at Saint-Saphorin, Rivaz or Epesses.
Length and recommended time
Just over 10 km. Allow for around five hours – (walking and stops).
Fitness level and accessibility
Accessible to people with average fitness – the paths are all paved and are pushchair and wheelchair friendly although there are some steep parts.
Lavaux Express
When I think of express, I think of the fast, sleek Eurocity trains that whizz through this region from Geneva to the Valais region and then onwards to Italy.
The Lavaux Express is not that kind of express, instead, it is a small, open tourist ‘train’ with wheels that makes its way around narrow roads up amongst the vines – stopping regularly. During the journey, passengers hear about the region’s history, the vineyards, the characteristics that make it ideal for viticulture, and, of course, this trip offers plenty of spectacular views.
Good to Know: They still run on rainy days by using protective sheets, but the driver can cancel if the weather becomes stormy.
Some possible Excursions
Circular trips lasting 1 hour leave several times a day.
Caveau Train, which is all about wine tasting, visits one of the local vineyards for a 45-minute wine-tasting experience. It runs on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, leaving early evening. The duration is 2 hours. For operating times (2021 times – May to mid-Sept) visit the Lavaux Express website (below).
Autumn market train in October for the Sunday markets in the village of Aran.
For seasonal dates,schedule and reservation (recommended)and FAQ go to the website Lavaux Express.
Regional Trains
The regional train service passes through the towns of Epesses,Rivaz, Saint-Saphorin,Vevey then Vevey to Chexbres offering a great sightseeing alternative. Visit sbb.ch for more information. This website also offers maps for each service – in the timetable page add from/to then click on the departure time. The map link is shown in the This Connection box. It‘s a great way to visualise the villages and train lines.
The blue and yellow trains that service the Vevey to Chexbres section are known as “Le Train des Vignes” – the Wine Trains. These trains link Vevey to Puidoux via Chexbres and run hourly in each direction, taking about 15 minutes.
Good to Know: Vevey, an attractive lakeside town in its own right, was once home to Charlie Chapman. There is now a museum on his former country estate called Chaplin’s World.
By Public Transport:Geneva to Lausanne – Express Trains 35-45 mins/ Region Trains 48 mins. For regional train services from Vevey to the vineyard villages see the Regional Train info above.
By Car: Geneva to Lausanne – 66 km (approx. 55 mins); Bern to Lausanne via Vevey – 100 km
7. La Chaux-de-Fonds / Le Locle, Watchmaking Town Planning
Tucked between the hills north of Neuchâtel, the two towns of La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle really stand out. At first glance, they look a bit too uniform and stark with their grid-like design and uniform sized houses.
However, once you get into the towns themselves, you really see the dedication and craftsmanship that has gone into the construction of the buildings. If you would prefer museums, then visit the Espace de l’Urbanisme Horloger for a brief history of the town or the International Museum of time (Musée International d’Horlogerie) – the largest timekeeping collection in the world.
What’s so special about these two towns
The towns of La Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle were reconstructed in the 19th Century solely for the watchmaking industry after both towns were badly damaged by fires. Many of the buildings have a combination of living quarters, workshops and offices.
They have been designated World Heritage sites in recognition of the watch-making industry successfully shaping and preserving the two towns to survive and thrive on only one manufacturing industry.
Some watch-making experiences found in the towns
Free multi-media exhibition about the watchmaking town planning – Espace de l’urbanisme horloger found in La Chaux-de-Fonds. According to the town’s website, this is a good place to start before touring the town.
Tourist train that travels through Le Locle from June to September, with commentary in English, French and German. (Doesn’t run in bad weather).
Musée International D’Horlogerie: The largest timekeeping collection in the world dedicated to the history of clock making with over 4,500 exhibits. Includes clocks, watches and tools from the 16th century.
Unique Open-air art in Le Locle – Exomusée
Artists from around the world have been using Le Locle’s buildings and inner-city spaces as a canvas to display their artwork for a few years. This ‘Urban Art’ project is spreading throughout the town with new pieces added each year. Some are abstract, some realistic, others offer illusions. Many of them are huge, covering the side of multi-story facades.
For more information including images, the street artists and a map with the locations go to the Exomusée website and the Le Locle tourism office in the town hall.
Getting there&Information
Public Transport
From Neuchatel: La Chaux-de-Fonds 27 mins / Le Locle 40 min; Lausanne: Intercity Train – La Chaux-de-Fonds 1 hr 12 mins/ Le Locle 1 hr 25 mins, changing at Neuchâtel; Bern: to Le Locle changing at La Chaux-de-Fonds – 1 hr 20 – 30 mins.; BetweenLa Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle: 9 mins by train.
By Car to La Chaux-de-Fonds (approx.)
From Bern: 1 hour – 68 km via Neuchâtel; Neuchâtel: 20 mins. – 20 km.
Le Locle: 12-20 mins, 9 km
Espacité Tower, La Chaux-de-Fonds; Photo by Christof Sonderegger; ┬®Tourisme neuchatelois_damier
Information Centre
La Chaux-de-Fonds – Tourism Information Centre can be found on the ground floor of the Espacité Tower – the circular tower that is often seen from arial photos of the town. Address: Espacité 1, 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds. 10 minutes walk from La Chaux-du-Fonds train station.
The series of pile dwelling sites are one of the most important archaeological sources for the study of early agrarian societies in Europe between 5,000 and 500 BC. The waterlogged conditions have preserved organic matter, helping with research & study of the Neolithic and Bronze Age history of Europe.
From the neolithic age to the Bronze age (between 4,400 & 750 BC) there were many settlements on the lakeshore and in bogs in the alpine regions. The simple houses were built on the shorelines with raised floors due to the regular flooding and waterlogged ground. A large concentration of these pile dwellings has been discovered on the shorelines of Lakes Neuchâtel, Murten (Morat) and Bielersee (Bienne).
The Laténium covers various stages of human evolution, starting from when Neanderthal man walked the earth, up to the Renaissance time in the middle ages. This archaeological park uses videos, models, sounds and items found by archaeologists in the area. There are also two large exhibits on display – a re-creation of a Bronze-Age House and a Roman flat-bottomed boat.
By visiting the room dedicated to these lake dwellings, you can immerse yourself into the everyday lives of the people that lived in these bronze and neolithic age settlements.
Getting there
The Laténium is located in Hauterive, on the shores of Lake Neuchâtel (3 km from the centre of Neuchâtel).
Public Transport
Train: Neuchâtel Gare to University with the funicular (FUNI). then 8 min bus trip (101) to Hauterive.
Boat: Neuchâtel‘s harbour to Hauterive. Currently free of charge from sprint to autumn (2022) – with return trip free when showing Laténium museum ticket.
By Car
Parking at the Port of Hauterive on the northeastern shore of Lake Neuchâtel – with small charge.
Walking and Bike: Neuchâtel to St-Blaise-Lac on the S5 train (direction Bern, 1 stop), then 20 minute walk along the edge of lake Neuchâtel.
9. The Architectural Work of Le Corbusier
Charles-Edouard Jeanneret-Gris (known as Le Corbusier), architect, town planner, painter and writer, was born in La Chaux-de-Fonds on October 6, 1887.
Corbusier first trained at the town’s school of art in 1902 where he became interested in architecture. He continued to train and learn while travelling around Europe including visits to Paris, Vienna, Berlin and Turkey.
During the 1920s, he became one of the most influential architects and urban planners of his century. In 1957 he was made a citizen of honour in his hometown, La Chaux-de-Fonds. If you want to discover Le Corbusier’s work pop into the information centre in La Chaux-de-Fonds for a guide to the locations of his first architectural works. In particular, the Villa Schwob or Turkish Villa, the Villa Jeanneret-Perret or White House (villa built for his parents) and the Villa Favre-Jacot in Le Locle all show different styles and designs he picked up when travelling around Europe.
The King of the concrete highrise
His theories lay the foundation for the Bauhaus Movement which was responsible for a burst of creativity that spread to places like Antwerp, Algiers, Stuttgart and Rio de Janeiro.
This group of architects are the main players behind the growth of giant concrete office blocks and high-rise apartments that can be seen on the horizons of many cities.
Later in his career, Corbusier moved to a more sculptural type of architecture. One of his last projects was the Carpenter Center at Harvard University.
Le Corbusier’s Failing
Unfortunately, as a strong supporter of far-right politics, Le Corbusier had a darker side. This has recently been acknowledged with several books published on his life and character. Two of the more critical books are: Le Corbusier, a cold vision of the world, by Marc Perelman and Un Corbusier, by Francois Chaslin.
Some Locations of Le Corbusier’s Workin Switzerland
Maison Blanche – Le Chaux-de-Fonds, built for his parents in 1912.
Anatole Schwob House (Turkish Villa) on at Rue du Doubs 167, La-Chaux-de-Fonds (1916–1918)
Unesco World Heritage Tectonic Arena Sardona – This area is as impressive as the name suggests. You can witness the incredible power and monumental forces that nature is capable of. Found in the cantonal border areas of Saint Gallen, Glarus & Graubünden, the Arena extends over more than 300 square kilometres. You can either do a tour with an expert or experience this area independently – go to unesco-sardona.ch for information.
The Glarus Overthrust
The Tectonic arena was formed by older rock from 250-300 million years ago being thrust up over much younger rock (35-50 million years ago). These rock formations, called the “Glarus overthrust”, demonstrate the power and movement of plate tectonics.
Interactive map created by unesco-sardona.ch
This is a great map to get an idea of the area and where you can go to learn more and view the arena’s dramatic scenery. The
interesting sights and viewpoints
geographic operations in the region
Points of interest reached by foot
The descriptions are all in german (Blick translates as View) however, they do have links to various pages and hikes – some may also need translating.
Most of the walks with good vantage points are more challenging so it is better to consult the information centres first before attempting them.
Tschinglen Cable Car – Elm
A great way to get straight to the heart of the arena!! The Tschinglen Gondola is open from Mid May to Mid October. Here is alink to the website (in german).
The Pizol 5-Lake Hike and Panorama walk
A much loved and popular Swiss excursion is the wonderful Pizol 5-lakes hike (done and loved it), on the western side of the Arena. The trail leads through a high plateau (2222 – 2507 metres) past 5 crystal-clear mountain lakes, with views as far away as Lake Constance in the northeast. The trail is open from July – Oct, although in winter it is possible to do the shorter Panorama trail as long as the Pizol cable cars and chair lifts are running. The starting point is from the top of the Wangs/Furt Gaffia cable car and chair lift.
Getting There and Information:
The interactive map above shows that ‘getting there’ covers a huge area with many possibilities.
A great source for hiking and sightseeing can be found on the UNESCO Sardona website’s page on top walks.
Various Information Centres are available to orientate you –
Tectonic Visitors Centre Glarus (closest commute from Zürich):
Zürich – GlarusTrain: 1 hr 3 mins, no changes. Car: 1 hr 10 mins (70 km)
Tectonic Visitors Pavillon Segneshütte – Flims (closest commute from Chur):
Chur – FlimsBus: – 35 – 50 mins by bus. Car: 1 hr 10 mins (70 km) – Once in Flims, take the Foppa cable car – go to the Flims/Laax/Falera website for operation times and prices.
For the Tschinglen Cable Car (mid May – mid Oct):
Zürich – Schwanden – ElmTrain: 2 hrs (change at Ziegelbrücke and Schwanden). In Elm get off at Bus Stop “Bahnhof“. Then follow the signs for 1,2 km to the valley station of the Tschinglenbahn (cable car). Car: 1 hr 30 mins
For the Pizol 5-lakes walk:
Zürich – Wangs (valley station) by train – 1 hour 10 mins, changing at Sargans.
Wangs to Pizol Hütte (2227m), 8-seater gondola and 4-seater chair lift Wangs – Furt – Gaffia – Pizolhütte (1 hour). or 8-seater gondola and 4-seater chair lift Bad Ragaz – Pardiel – Laufböden (1 hour). Round-trip ticket for the 5-lake walk available from Pizol railway. For opening hours, and more info on the walk go to the Pizol areas officialwebsite.
The pavilion is best reached via the Naraus mountain station with a 75 minutes hike. A shuttle and the Grauberg cable car can be used instead of walking.
The wooded mountain of Monte San Giorgio beside Lake Lugano is regarded as the best fossil record of marine life from the Triassic Period (245–230 million years ago), recording life in a tropical lagoon environment with different kinds of marine life flourishing, including reptiles and fish. Because the lagoon was near land, the remains include land-based fossils of reptiles, insects and plants, resulting in an extremely rich source of fossils.
UNESCO World Heritage Description, available under license CC-BY-SA IGO 3.0
Fossil Museum of Monte San Giorgio Meride, Ticino
The Museum of Fossils, found at the southern end of Monte San Giorgio, was open to the public in 2012 with modern and eye-catching displays spread over four floors. This is the best place to find fossils from the mountain and get a glimpse of what life was like a few hundred million years ago. Local architect – Mario Botta designed the museum and was also responsible for designing some astounding creations found around the world.
Made up of fossilized animals and plants from Monte San Giorgio, the exhibits include fish and reptiles from 240 million years ago – when the area was a subtropical sea basin. The careful preservation of the skeletons has made this mountain world-famous for its natural heritage.
Panorama terrace in Val Mara @FMSG
Trails around the mountain
A trail around the mountain has information panels and provides views of the rocks and excavations where fossils have been found.
Percorso Murat Pelit is a new 3.7 km trail for people with motor disabilities. Ticino-born Murat Pelit is a member of the Swiss Paralympic ski team amongst other achievements. His association, Ti-Rex Sport in conjunction with Medrisiotto Turismo, opened up a route for handbikes on Monte San Giorgio in May 2021.
The trail winds through woodland and has been tailored for use by three-wheeled mountain bikes which can be operated by hand. The circular tour departs from the Hotel Serpiano where the special bikes are also available for hire. This special trail and the bikes can be used by anyone interested in having a go.
Getting Around and Information:
By Public Transport: from Lugano – 45 minutes with 1 change; from Zürich – 1 hr 55 mins (through the Gotthard Base Tunnel).
By Car: from Lugano – 26 km, approx. 30 mins drive over Lake Lugano’s bridge at Melide; from Zürich to Lugano – 200 km
3. Swiss Alps – Jungfrau Aletsch Glacier
Aletsch Glacier, as seen from the southern edge, canton Valais
This part of the European Alps, one of the most spectacular mountain landscapes in the world, is home to well-known mountains such as Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. The Aletsch glacier is part of this landscape, taking up 824 km² of space close to the mountain’s peaks, it slowly edging its way from one side of the alps to another. According to the UNESCO World Heritage website, it is the largest glacier in Eurasia and is considered a natural wonder because of its beauty and the information it contains on the formation of mountains and glaciers. This Jungfrau-Aletsch website is great for facts and figures, information and videos.
Some of thereasons for the UNESCO classification:
The area is home to a wide range of alpine and sub-alpine habitats.
Ecosystems have evolved without significant human intervention.
Almost all of the area is under some form of legal protection.
It plays an important role in the study of climate change.
How to view the Aletsch Glacier
From the Bernese Oberland region –
Getting There and Tickets
Take the train from Interlaken Ost station to Lauterbrunnen or Grindelwald, then the rack railway up to Kleine Scheidegg. This is where the Jungfrau train will chug around the mountain, then through the mountain to Jungfraujoch.
Good to Know: Jungfraujoch is the highest railway station in Europe at 3,454 metres.
From the southern side – Valais
The chair lifts and cable cars called – Riederalp, Bettmeralp and Fiescheralp can be reached from the Rhône Valley. From there they go to car-free villages and finally up to the viewing platforms, panorama walks and hiking tracks close to the glacier. See my own experience of a short hike by visiting – How to Experience the Awe-Inspiring Aletsch Glacier- My Valais Experience.
Getting to the cable cars valley stations – Mörel, Betten and Fiesch
Public Transport
Bern to Brig : 1 hour, 6 mins, on intercity trains via Thun, Spiez, the Lötschberg basis tunnel and Visp, then change for trains or buses to Mörel, Betten or Fiesch for cable car/chair lift services up to the glacier.
By Car
Sierre to Betten: 52 km: Bern to Betten, via Thun and Spiez: 125 km, includes car transportation train from Kandersteg through the Lötschberg basis tunnel.
Fondation Beyeler, Photo by Ricardo Gomez Angel on Unsplash
Fondation Beyeler museum is considered one of the world’s most beautiful art museums. This is due to the design of the building, the surrounding park and the permanent exhibits such as Monet’s lily pond paintings, and work from Picasso and Rousseau. There are also temporary exhibits that are shown throughout the year.
The Award-winning architect Renzo Piano designed the museum. The building is reflected in a lily pond and is in an English Garden. From here you can see views of the countryside, vineyards and the foothills of the Black Forest.
In 2017 plans to extend the museum were unveiled. The extension allows more space for public events and further art installations. The purchase of the Iselin-Weber park next door to the museum made these plans possible. This park was originally private and has mature trees and a lily pond.
The architect Peter Zumthor has been selected to design the buildings and grounds. He was born in Basel and is known for other projects such as the thermal baths in Vals and the Bregenz art gallery. He has also won several prestigious awards for architecture.
The Art
Photo by Xavier von Erlach on Unsplash
The art encompasses over 400 classic, modern and contemporary works from the 19th, 20th and 21st centuries and includes constantly changing temporary exhibits. Ernst and Hildy Beyeler, who grew up in the area, decided to build the museum back in 1985 to house their large collection of paintings and sculptures. They worked together with Renzo Piano to design and build the museum which was completed in 1997.
Museum Tinguely
Jean Tinguely – a world-renown artist (22 May 1925 – 30 August 1991) was a Swiss sculptor known for his kinetic art sculptural machines (known officially as meta mechanics).
Jean Tinguely grew up in Basel and belonged to the Parisian avant-garde in the 1950s and 60s. He created his kinetic works by using everyday materials such as steel wire, tin plate and paint.
The museum of his life and work is on the banks of the Rhine at Paul Sacher-Anlage 2 – on the Kleinbasel side of the Rhine. The museum has a large central hall created by architect Mario Botta that holds several sculptures. The museum opens out to the historical Solitude Park which leads down to the Rhine. There is also a bistro in this park.
Apart from the Tinguely works, the museum also has temporary exhibits about his circle of friends and other modern artists with the same style. See the museum’s Facebook page for up-to-date exhibits, special events and videos on the workings behind the scenes at the museum.
If you are feelinglike a refreshing dip after visiting the museum, this is a good entry point for swimming in the Rhine – make sure you take note of the rules of river swimming and danger zones on the river before attempting to float downstream.
Art Basel
Basel’s Exhibition Centre
Art Basel is considered to be the world’s leading fair in the international art market where over 250 art galleries from all over the world present their modern and contemporary works.
Three gallery owners from Basel decided to create an international art fair back in 1970: Trudl Bruckner, Ernst Beyeler and Balz Hilt. This first fair was visited by 16,000 people, then within just two years the exhibition space and number of visitors doubled.
What is offered to visitors:
Large-scale artworks – sculptures, video projections and live performances.
A parcours that covers around 6 km, passing through many of Basel’s impressive historic and modern architectural sites.
The Liste and Volta art fairs (contemporary art from younger galleries) and Photo Basel (Photographic Swiss and International art), have joined with Art Basel to run at the same time.
High-profile and emerging artists visit to present and talk about their work.
For more information see the Art Basel website.
Fondation Beyeler Art Gallery
Opening hours* Mon.- Sun. 10 am – 6 pm Wed. 10 am.- 8 pm * open 365 days
Winterthur has been a centre of art and culture for over 100 years.
The Oskar Reinhart am Römerholz Villa is a compact art gallery. It offers a treasure trove of art from world-renowned French Impressionists and Old Masters such as Van Gogh, Goya, Delacroix, Corot, Cézanne, Renoir and Manet as well as several sculptures. This carefully renovated Villa was built between 1915 & 1918 for Oskar Reinhart and sits on one of the wooded hills overlooking Winterthur, 30 minutes by car east of Zürich city. Oskar Reinhart was an avid art collector just like his industrialist father, Theodor Reinhart. In 1958 Oskar made a will bequeathing the remaining part of his collection and the Villa, which housed his collection, to the Swiss nation. The collection was open to the public in 1970. There is also a landscaped garden overlooked by a cafe with terrace to chill out in after viewing the art. This cafe is also open to people who don’t want to visit the museum – without charge.
The Reinhart am StadtgartenArt Museum opened in 1951 and is located in the centre of Winterthur on Stadthausstrasse; nestled into the Stadtgarten (City Gardens). It has some 600 works by Swiss German and Austrian artists. A link to the Art Museum’s website can be found here at kmw.ch.
A further two buildings in Winterthur offer exhibitions on different kinds of art. Villa Flora and Beim Stadthaus, along with the Reinhart am Stadtgarten, are grouped under the umbrella brand – The Art Museum (Kunst Museum). Each is housed in impressive buildings dotted around the historical center of Winterthur. As with most museums in Switzerland – They are not open on Mondays.
The Foto museum and fotostiftung winterthur
The Fotomuseum, a leading institution for photography and visual culture, exhibits established names and emerging talents with a collection from 1960 onwards. For more information about their exhibitions, opening hours etc., see their website.
During 2002/03, the Fotostiftung Schweiz and the Fotomuseum Winterthur converted part of an industrial site into premises for photography. The Fotostiftung Schweiz emphasis is on Swiss photography from its beginnings to the present and the Fotomuseum Winterthur focuses primarily on international contemporary and historical photography.
Both the Fotomuseum Winterthur and the Fotostiftung Switzerland are part of the ArtMuseums of Switzerland, made up of twelve world-class museums representing arts of the highest levels.
For Oskar Reinhart Am Römerholz – On Lindberg Hill
A link to the website with information on opening times, location and costs can be foundhere.
How to get there: By mini bus ‘Am Römerholz’: This museum Heidi bus leaves from the front of the main train station in Winterthur hourly from 9.45 am – 4.45 pm. From the museum, hourly from 10 am to 5 pm. (I have taken this little bus – the driver is very friendly). The bus may stop at other museums, depending on demand. The return trip costs CHF5, unless you have a museum pass – then it‘s free. By Bus: No. 3 bus from Winterthur Main Station to Kantonsspital (Canton Hospital) stop. Then a 10-minute walk towards Lindberg (partly uphill). By car: Exit Winterthur-Ohringen from the motorway, then Schaffhauserstrasse, Rychenbergstrasse and Haldenstrasse. Parking is 50m past the museum on Eichwaldstrasse. By Foot: From Winterthur’s main station follow the footpath by the tracks towards the hospital, then take Haldenstrasse, through the round-about then curving uphill to the forest. (Is signposted at various intersections).
Fotomuseum – Grüzenstrasse 44-45
A link to the website with all information can be foundhere.
Bus from Winterthur main station – Bus No. 2 (directionSeen), 3rd stop – Fotozentrum
Car from Zürich – exit Winterthur-Töss, direction Stadt Zentrum (city centre) then follow signs to Fotomuseum.
Other Museum’s in Winterthur
The Heidi Mini Bus does a round trip from the main station – as mentioned above – it leaves at 15 minutes to the hour from 9.45 am to 4.45 pm. These are the stops on demand. The return trip costs CHF5 – unless you have a museum pass, then it‘s free. For the timetable for each of the following museums click here.
Steinberggasse pedestrian street. Image by Luna4 from Pixabay
Over the roofs of Winterthur old town, by A.Leggett
Church Square in the old town, by A. Leggett
Good to Know: Winterthur city itself is worth visiting. It is home to the largest uninterrupted pedestrian area in Switzerland with some wonderful boutique shops, cafes, bars and restaurants. Some of the best small shops and cafes can be found at Oberer Graben, Unterer Graben and around Steinberggasse.
See my page on Winterthurfor a suggested walk in the old town.
If you have ever been to the Rheinfalls you will know how impressive they are. A huge amount of water gushes and roars along the river then plunges over huge rocks, whirling and swirling to the next level. The fairytale castle – Schloss Laufen, observes from above. These waterfalls and the dramatic forested landscape can be seen up close and personal from a walkway, a huge rock in the middle of the Rhine, or a boat. Every now and then a train chugs across the solid Rheinbrücke bei Laufen bridge into a tunnel under the castle, before stopping at the Schloss Laufen train station. This is definitely a very cool place to visit.
However, the Rheinfalls is understandably very popular with tourists – they flock to the area to get a view of the roaring waterfall, filling the boats, and walkways. For this reason and also when the weather is cold and rainy, it is nice to have another option close by.
Smilestones is an Indoor Miniature world. It is found opposite the castle on the other side of the Rhine in a large warehouse. It offers a chance to experience not only the Rheinfall attractions but some of the most iconic and better-known Swiss sights. (I went here recently and definitely recommend it).
Swiss Milestones (Smilestones)
Markets pop up to fit the seasons. A.Leggett
From Smilestones indoor arena, it is possible to look down on the Rheinfalls from above, distancing yourself from the crowds and the tiny boats below. The whole Rheinfalls area is shown in great detail including the forested hills, railway bridge, tunnel and castle. From here you can make your way to Schaffhausen’s old town and towers, then visit a miniature Appenzell with its colourful houses and Alpstein mountains – cable cars move up and down at the push of a button. You can then stop and look closely at the people (23,000) enjoying their day on restaurant terraces, in the villages, or watch as they bike, hike, dance and celebrate. It is then possible to observe all this at night when the lights go on (a total of 8,000). This short night cycle is every 15 minutes, giving just enough time to look into windows of buildings or see the whole exhibit lit up like a Christmas tree.
Swiss Rail – on time as usual. A.Leggett
When wandering past the sweeping views of life in Switzerland all kinds of trains snake past. They make their way through the towns, into tunnels, and past stations. If you follow them you will eventually end up in the Bernese Oberland. When here they chug past alpine villages perched on mountainsides, waterfalls, industry and holiday resorts. You will see the snow-covered Jungfrau, Mönch, Eiger and the iconic Matterhorn in miniature – still looking very impressive.
Stein am Rhein in canton Schaffhausen@smilestones
It is possible to stop and peer into a cheese dairy, the Lindt & Sprüngli chocolate factory and a watch factory. At the chocolate factory it pays to push the green glowing button, you may be rewarded with chocolate. It happened to me.
This place is lots of fun. It does feel like you are a giant – peering into the everyday lives of the Swiss. You can even get a magnifying glass to see the details – some funny and some thought-provoking.
There is a saying in Swiss German – Häsch xeh? Meaning “Did you see that”? This is the promotional phrase used by Smilestones. I think it fits well with the exhibit since the more you look, the more you see – whether it is the antics of the people or what is seen inside buildings, under the water, or hanging from the side of a mountain… In fact, some things may confuse you. This is because the Swiss have their inside jokes, traditional songs and tales which anyone outside the country may not get. This is when you will need to ask “Why”?
I’m sure you could ask a friendly Swiss person standing close to you. It may be a good opportunity to get a real insight into Swiss culture.
My favouritesdisplays:
The vehicles driving along, then held up by annoying roadworks. The use of blinkers to turn corners and the sing song horn noise as the Post buses go around the switchback roads.
People dancing, being told off by police and biking around a lake (actually peddling).
The lights on in the houses, trains and streetlamps at night.
Cable cars and funiculars
Funny little events to make you stop, really look and smile – there are plenty of these.
Buttons to interact with the displays.
Mountains
Trains, trains and more trains.
Discovering how it all works – it is also possible to do a behind the scenes tour.
By Bus from Schaffhausen to Neuhausen Zentrum, 15 mins; By TrainSchaffhausen to Neuhausen Rheinfall, 7 mins,
By Train from Zürich toSchloss Laufen am Rheinfall (other side of Rhine). From the station take lift up to castle, then follow signposts. Is a 10-minute walk across the railway bridge’s walkway.
By Car From Central Schaffhausen to Industrieplatz, Neuhausen am Rheinfall is approx. 7 mins drive; From central Zürich, approx. 40 mins drive- 50 km (direction Schaffhausen).
The town of Scuol is the biggest town in the Lower Engadin Valley. It takes a bit of effort to get here but the journey through wild landscapes and past idyllic villages; as well as the magical views from the baths themselves, are all good reasons to come.
What is available in the Spa:
Panorama pool, approx. 33 ° C
Exercise and therapy pool, 33 ° C
Brine pool – 2% brine, approx. 33 ° C
Whirlpool – approx. 36 ° C
Grottos – Cold water, 18 ° C and warm water grotto, 36 ° C
Outdoor pool with a lazy river
Steam bath (textile), air approx. 46 ° C
Solariums (charge)
Relaxation room with open fire
Massages (charge)
Rental of swimwear, bath towels and bathrobe
Sauna area
Roman-Irish Bathing area
Wellness Centre
This information is as of November 2023. For more information go to the website.
What to see while you are here
The pretty towns just above the Lower Engadin Valley are easily reached by train from Scuol. Both Guarda and Ardez are idyllic villages with the typical Sgraffito engravings decorating the building’s facades. See my page on the historical villages of the Lower Engadin Valley for more information.
2. Andeer Mineral Bath
We stayed in Andeer for a ski week in 2018 and found these mineral baths around the corner from the accommodation. We often went there in the evenings. I think I enjoy the thermal baths as much as the skiing!
The Andeer Mineral Baths are found in the small, typical Graubünden village of Andeer. This is an ideal place if you are looking for peace and quiet. They have cobbled streets and a pretty town centre with a welcoming bakery. The buses leave from this area regularly to Splügen Tambo ski resort which can be reached in 13 mins or 15 minutes by car.
These baths offer:
One indoor and one outdoor pool (good size) – both with bubble, whirlpool & neck shower
Constant 34 degrees
Evening light display in the outdoor pool
Wellness
Finnish sauna and organic sauna as well as a steam bath (currently reserved for women only from 6-9 pm).
Splash and Spa Tamaro Abo – 20% off ski pass (see website for details)
For up-to-date information and a funny video go to their website. Also, theSplügen Tambowebsite gives more information about the Splash and Spa Tamaro discount.
What to see while you are here
Summer: The scenic Viamala Gorge is worth visiting and the remote and wild Averser Rhein Valley which is home to the highest year-round settlement in Europe, Juf.
Winter: Ski Resort Splügen Tambo is great forall levels of skiers. Juf in the Averser Rhein Valley also has a small ski resort for really off-the-beaten-track skiing possibilities.
3. Tamina Therme –Bad Ragaz
@ Heidiland TourismTamina Thermal Baths. A LeggettTamina Thermal Baths, A.LeggettSoak in Thermal Baths – @ Heidiland Tourism @Heidiland Tourism
Bad Ragaz spa town is on the edge of the southern Rhine Valley, across from the Bündner Herrschaft vineyards.
The thermal baths are in an elegant modern building close to the town. Springs originating from deep in the Alps pick up minerals as the warm water slowly travels upwards through cracks in the rocks, finally ending up above ground at the small Tamina Gorge. The gorge itself was used as a thermal bath but, since it was very tricky to navigate, was eventually moved to a bathing house just outside the gorge. This historical building has been lovingly restored with some of the original rooms open for viewing. The gorge and old bathhouse can be reached by either horse and cart, a Post Bus or by foot. It doubles as an entrance to the Tamina Gorge (see below for more info on the gorge and town).
The modern Tamina Therme is attached to the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz. This complex is a short walk across a park from the town centre or a bus ride from the train station on the other side of town. Some of the bathing and steam options are:
Large indoor Bath – 34 C
Outside Bath 34 C
Sport bath 32 C
Bath with jets & loungers 36.5 C
Warm water bath 39 C /Cold water 17 C
Steam Room 45 C 100% humidity
1 warm towel (included in entry price)
Relaxation room
Bio Textile Sauna 65 C, 50% humidity
Mineral ceremony in large pool (mineral salts given out)
Peeling Bar
Wellness options including massages – extra charge
Sauna Village – extra charge
Cafe
What to see while you are here
The Tamina Gorge
Tamina Gorge can be reached by bus. Photo by A.Leggett
It is possible to visit the original spa which has been turned into a cafe and museum. This is also an entrance to the small Tamina Gorge where you can get close to the mineral waters. It is very atmospheric with an old tunnel bored into the rock leading to a place where you can touch the warm water bubbling up from deep underground. The water gushes beside the walkway and, after a bit of rain or melting of snow, sprays down from above. There are panels along the walkway that give you an idea as to how the waters were enjoyed by 18th-century aristocrats as well as geological and thermal information.
It is also possible to do a walk alongside the Tamina River from Bad Ragaz to the gorge. This can be a cooling walk because it is within a wide gorge which, depending on the rainfall, has water cascading or dripping down the rockfaces beside the narrow road. (This road is only for Post buses, horse and cart and service vehicles for the restaurant/museum at the gorge entrance).
The town itself has a relaxing feel, with a large tourist office, craft shops, attractive parks, a golf course, a large outdoor swimming complex and some nice hotels, cafes and restaurants. The Tamina river rages through the town to meet up with the Rhein in the Rhein Valley.
Good to Know: Every three years in the summer & autumn months, Bad Ragaz becomes an open-air art exhibition called Bad RagARTz. The last one was 2021 so you will have to wait until 2024, however, it pays to keep a lookout for other events in this small town. See my postfor 2021 pics and info on the Tamina Gorge.
The spa town of Leukerbad (1,411 metres above sea level) is high above the Rhône Valley at the top of a windy road with switchbacks. It takes about 30 minutes by bus to climb 700 meters but is well worth the trip as Leukerbad is home to the highest and largest hot water thermal bath in the Alps.
The mineral waters bubble up to the surface at around 51° C, then cool to a more pleasant 28 – 43 degrees once arriving in the town’s many thermal pools, whirlpools, kids pools, fountains and saunas.
Leukerbad is considered to be an environmentally friendly and sustainable tourism destination.“My Leukerbad AG” was one of the winners of a myclimate Award 2021 for being a “Pioneer for the integration of climate protection at destination level”. The award was presented at ITB Berlin NOW 2021. Here is a link to the press release.
Two mineral baths that offer thermal bathing, saunas and wellness are:
Leukerbad Thermal Baths
This is the largest thermal bath in Europe with:
Thermal and adventure pool
Vitality and fun bath
Children’s and toddler pools as well as a children’s paradise
Sports and indoor swimming pool
Walliser Alpen Therme & Spa (luxury spa)
This one is located beside the village square with mountain views from the circular pool. It has recently been fully renovated and offers:
Thermal world
Valais (Wallis) sauna village
Roman-Irish bath
Bergquell Spa
What to see while you are here
The Torrent Cable Car and Gemmi Pass Cable Car
The small spa town of Leukerbad is nestled between impressive mountain cliffs and peaks with the Torrent Cable Car and Gondola on the south side of town and the Gemmi Pass cable car on the north side.
In Winter
Cross-Country Skiing
Downhill skiing (Torrent only)
sledging
Winter Trails and snowshoe trails
In Summer
Walking the Gemmi Pass (Gemmi Cable Car)
200 km hiking trails
225 km biking trails
3 Via Ferrata (Rock climbing) – NOT for the faint-hearted!
Sauna Area in Winter.All photos from Park Resort Rheinfelden
Sole Uno Mineral Baths have plenty of ideas for relaxing, recharging and massaging your muscles. This is a popular thermal bath so it is a good idea to get here early. Luckily there is a limit to the number of people allowed in at one time, and with all the different options available once inside, there is plenty of room for everyone to relax.
Salt-rich Vitalbad (blue) and salt-rich Inhalation (green) rooms.Photos from Park Hotel Rheinfelden
This place offers plenty of treats! – Floating pool with music piped in, relaxing room with an aquarium, saunas infused with salt or herbs, bubbles and jets everywhere, alpine waterfall corner and hot/ice plunge baths… I visited here and found it loads of fun but at the same time incredibly relaxing.
Rheinfelder Natursole® (officially protected brand) is a natural brine that is one of the strongest in Europe. It is piped directly into the Thermal Baths from a depth of around 200 metres, then mixed with magnesium and calcium-rich Rheinfelden drinking water and heated to 33 – 36° C. It is known to loosen cramped and tight muscles and promote good circulation.
The mineral baths offer:
Rheinfelder Natursole® – a shallow pool with high salt content (12 %) for floating in. Is in a dimly lit area with music piped under the water.
Hot and cold plunge pools
Waterfall and showers in a tropical atmosphere
Aromatic steam rooms.
SalzReich room with salt steam and vitality bath
Outdoor warm saltwater pool
Russian and Finnish Sauna Area
Relaxation room (Ruheraum) with Aquarium. Photo from Park Resort, Rheinfelden
Another bonus about this place is its location. The thermal baths are within walking distance, through a park, to the historical town of Rheinfelden. The centre has a cosy old town feel with craft shops, cafes, bars and restaurants. It sits in a lovely position alongside the Rhein and has a beautiful old bridge linking it to Germany’s town of Rheinfelden.
Western Switzerland
6. Les Bains de la Gruyère – Charmey in canton Fribourg
Les Bains de la Gruyère-Charmey – Photo by @Pascal Gertschen
Les Bains de la Gruyère – Photo by @Pascal-Gertschen
Once again, the location is reason enough to visit these thermal baths. They are in the small town of Charmey, near Gruyères, in the Fribourg foothills. Les Bains de la Gruyère offer:
2 inside and 1 outside pools (34 C)
A Nordic area with 3 saunas
An oriental area with Hammam and Turkish baths
Wellness with massages and cosmetic treatments
Cafe
Charming village to walk around before or after visiting the baths
What to see while you are here
The Jogne Gorge is a short walk from the town of Charmey. This is a lovely natural area with bridges, tunnels in the rock, and a walkway that leads to the town of Broc.
After exiting the gorge in Broc, a 20-minute walk takes you to the historical Cailler Chocolate Factory.
Around 10 mins by car or 18 mins by public transport from Broc is the lovely medieval town of Gruyères looking magical on top of a hill. Gruyères is a gorgeous car-free town with an impressive castle – understandably loved by tourists.
The world-famous Gruyère cheese can be experienced at its original location. La Maison du Gruyère, just below the historical part of town, has an exhibition all about the processes involved in making the cheese, the different types of cheese and a viewing platform of the processing plant.
A hiking suggestion from Charmey to Broc, through the Jogne Gorge
Countryside near Lake Lucerne with Rigi in the background
Many of the places that I like to visit are popular. Lucerne, for example, with its idyllic lake setting and surrounding mountains and, of course, the nearby state of the art cable cars that climb iconic peaks like Pilatus, Stanserhorn and Titlis are also worth waiting in line for.
Fairytale medieval towns like Gruyères in canton Fribourg with its idyllic setting and hilltop castle along with the western town of Appenzell with its colorful houses, traditions and tasty cheese pull in the crowds.
These are places that should be on the itinerary when in Switzerland, even if they can be crowded at times. This is because they have managed to stay authentic and traditional despite all the visitors, souvenir shops and tour buses.
However, is is easy to find other places in these regions that are just as idyllic, but a bit more off the tourist track. All it takes is a day trip by local train, bus, or a drive in the car to find them.
I discovered the places in this post when I was visiting Gruyères town and the region of la Gruyère, Appenzell – canton and town, St. Gallen and Lucerne. I have gone into great detail about getting around (Getting There Section) because I think the drive or train journey there can be just as entertaining as the destination.
A friend and I decided to visit the Schaukäserei (show cheese dairy) in Stein, canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden. This cheese dairy has recently been renovated and now has an exhibition that showcases the Appenzell cheese brand and the traditional family-run dairies in the area.
After learning about the culture and the cheese-making process of the region, we decided to zip up our jackets and take off into the countryside for a short walk.
There is a detailed signpost close to the dairy giving us all the options – themed walks, hill walks, mountain hikes, official Swiss trails… we just wanted to get some fresh air.
We found a combination of walks that meant we could circle around, back to the car. It was only about 2km of walking so suited our schedule.
Yellow benches, can be found all over the countryside, tempting us to sit and look at the panorama of deep green hills dotted with traditional Appenzell farms (probably a few cheese dairies as well).
While we walked and chatted we had great views of the Alpstein mountains rising up sharply, a distant view of Lake Constance and also many more little yellow benches.
You could almost do a join the dots with these benches – the shape would probably be a cow or goat.
We used one to stop for a snack. From here we could see the little town of Stein with its church steeple pointing elegantly upwards and hear cowbells clanging away in all directions. It was all so typically Swiss!
We made it back to the car in record time with a promise to each other that we will do this again but next time we will try the mountain hike.
A small museum next door to the cheese dairy (Volkskunde Museum) exhibits all sorts of historical Appenzell treasures to do with agriculture, housing and traditions. You can view historical items which have been beautifully crafted and preserved. It is possible to get a combi ticket for the cheese diary and museum.
Something fun close by . . .
Kronberg (1,657 m) Cable Car, summer Toboggan Run and Rope Park
This cable car leaves from Jakobsbad (884 m), between the villages of Urnäsch and Gonten. Jakobsbad rail station is on a small railway track that goes from Appenzell (12 mins).
There is also a large Seilpark (rope park) here. They have plenty of challenging rope obstacles to negotiate as well as 25 different ziplines that zip around the park. You can also find a Barfussweg (barefoot path) near the cable car station and hiking paths.
Getting to Stein and Jakobsbad in Appenzell
By Public Transport
From Zürich to SteinAR, change at Rapperswil & Herisau, 1 hour 40 mins.
From Zürich to SteinAR, change at St. Gallen, 1 hour 40 mins.
From St. Gallen to SteinAR, 20 mins by bus.
When travelling from Appenzell to SteinAR by public transport, athough they are close as the crow flies, it is still a 50 mins to 1 hr train/bus trip. It is better to go from St. Gallen or perhaps by doing a hike.
Toggenburg is a hilly and mountainous region that sits south of Lake Constance. It is around an 1 hr 20 mins drive or a 2-hour train journey from Zürich.
This region with its wide valley extends southward from Highway 1 – the northern motorway crossing Switzerland – almost down to the main western road skirting the Austria and Liechtenstein borders.
The landscape is mostly countryside with pretty houses sitting around the green slopes that rise up gently from the Thur river valley. This long valley is framed by rugged, and sometimes sharp mountain peaks of the Alpstein Massif to the northeast and the Churfirsten Massif to the west.
The Churfirsten Massif is very distinctive with its jagged peaks that look a bit like pointy teeth.
More about these peaks and hiking suggestions can be found on my canton St. Gallenpage.
The Churfirsten Massif’s “pointy teeth” in winter
This region offers plenty of ways to get above the fog in autumn or winter. There are several cable cars and chairlifts that lead up to themed hiking trails, alpine trails, ski pistes, lookout points and alpine restaurants. One option is the well-hidden Wolzenalp area.
View from Wolzenalp Chairlift to Säntis (left) and the Churfirsten mountains (right)
This little chairlift station is well hidden from the road – in fact, we didn’t really see it until we drove past. Once you see it there is no mistaking what it is. The side of the station has the word Wolzenalp painted a colourful sky blue with a bright yellow sun smiling above it.
What not to do – don’t choose Krummenau-Wolzenalp in the SatNav – this will take you up this winding road to the top of the chair lift. Most of this narrow country road is only for use by locals and cyclists. Instead, put in Wolzenalp, Krummenswil. There is also the Krummenau train station a few minutes walk away from the bottom chairlift station.
From the top of the chairlift, there is a short walk through part of the moor and alongside a good grill spot to the restaurant with terrace and also the start of loads of walking possibilities.
We followed the white/red/white signs painted on rocks, posts, and buildings. We would’ve been lost without them.
The steep climb was worth it just to see this view
We were going to walk to Speer (a jagged, imposing peak at 1900 metres above sea level), but decided to do the Gebirgsrundweg (mountain circular trail) instead. That was challenging enough. At one point we were zig-zagging up a very steep hillside with no clear path to follow. The one thing you can count on is the white, red, white stripes painted on – amongst other things – rocks, buildings and fence posts, that are spread out like breadcrumbs along the trail.
view from chair lift up to Wolzenalp
We followed these up steep hills, through meadows, across a lovely soft moor landscape – a bit like walking on a moss-covered mattress – then finally back downhill to the restaurant. Was a great walk with views of quiet spaces and hidden corners. I loved it!
Next time to Speer – maybe.
Waldhaus – Toggenburg
Other hiking paths leave from Waldhaus in the Toggenburg Region – also great for winter walks, snowshoeing, sledding and skiing.
Getting to Toggenburg
By Public Transport
From Zürich to Krummenau – takes 1 hour 18 mins, changing twice. Once at Rapperswil (down the side of Lake Zürich and also worth a visit).
From St. Gallen to Krummenau The S2 train takes 45 mins with no changes.
By Car:
From central Zürich – takes just over an hour, via Winterthur (A1) or down the west side of Lake Zürich (A3).
Links
Wolzenalp:
Link to video showing the ski resort and winter activities. (Beautiful video)
Even though Rigi sounds like the name of just one mountain, it is actually a Massif made up of several peaks, valleys and meadows. Rigi is on the edge of Lake Lucerne on one side and a wide valley that is home to Zug, Arth Goldau and Schwyz on the other. It spans two cantons – Schwyz and Lucerne.
This mountainous area has been a popular hiking and leisure region for hundreds of years. According to the tourist booklet “Rigi, Queen of the Mountains“, by Ron Smith, the rack railway that climbs from Vitznau at the edge of Lake Lucerne up the side of Rigi, first opened in 1871. It was apparently the first of its kind in Europe.
I recently did a day trip up the mountain, hoping to get above the clouds – I was mostly successful.
I hopped on the sleek bronze Sudostbahn (southeast) train from Zürich early in the morning and travelled alongside Lakes Zürich and Zug to my destination, Arth Goldau.
Right from the beginning of the trip from Zürich to Arth Goldau, there is some lovely scenery. This trip runs along Lake Zürich (left side of the train) with the city spread along hillsides on both sides and the alps rising up in the distance. The next stop is the town of Zug and its lake (right side of the train). Lush green hills rise up from the lake and more mountain peaks can be seen in the distance.
The last stop – Arth Goldau is a large town found at the end of Lake Zug.
The RigiBahn cog train leaves from the edge of this train station, slowly snaking its way around the mountain to the highest summit – Rigi Kulm. The train travels through forests in the Rigiaa valley (this is not a spelling mistake – Aa derives from the name for small European river) and past small stations with names like Klösterli and Fruttli, upwards to the Rigi Kulm peak.
Rigi Kulm – Train station inWinter; Arriving in the fog; View of Lake Zug once the fog had cleared
It was very quiet on the summit. Only about half a dozen people left the train with me which seemed a small amount considering how popular this place is for the Swiss. I then noticed that the restaurant and terrace were closed and the lookout point was disappearing in the cloud. So the fact that I ended up alone at the top was no longer a surprise. (Not sure where the other people disappeared to… somewhere in the fog – I didn’t see them again).
The clouds soon cleared and I had a magnificent 360-degree view – all on my own.
There’s a small and friendly tearoom with outdoor benches and toilets beside the tracks which was good enough for a refuel before starting my walk.
Warning – as these are the only two options at the top, some of the food and all of the drinks are pricey.
Other options are the farm restaurants and grill spots along the way. Alp Chäserenholz is a tavern that can be found around 1.5km downhill from the start of the walk. This place offers some special treats – but you will need to reserve. A Whey bath, hot tub and sauna! Here is the link for more information. Chäserenholzhütte
If the tavern is full – there is a largebbq across the track and another few further down the path.
There are around 120 km of prepared hiking trails in summer and around 35 km in winter available on Rigi. My small walk was just the start. It is possible to get a Rigi Hiking Ticket which gives you the chance to combine hikes with transport on the cable cars and trains. See the rigi.ch/hiking-ticketlink for details.
Although this hike is mostly on farm roads, it still feels remote.
Klösterli Train station – it is like stepping back in time when entering this small station.
My walk from Rigi Kulm – Rigi’s peak – down to Klösterli train station
Travelling to Rigi Kulm (Lake Zug side) and Rigi Kaltbad then Kulm (Lake Lucerne side).
Public Transport:
By Boat on Lake Lucerne:
When travelling by boat from Lucerne there are 2 towns that have transport up to Rigi Kulm (the top) – Weggis or Vitznau:
Weggis to Rigi Kaltbad on the cable car, then cog rail up to Rigi Kulm.
Vitznau to Rigi Kulm on the cog rail.
By Train:
From Lucerne to Arth Goldau – takes about 32 mins.
From Zürich, via Zug to Arth Goldau. Takes 40-45 mins.
Then the cog rail to Rigi Kulm (top) takes about 45 mins.
By Car:
From Zürich via Zug to the RigiBahn cog railway at Arth Goldau train station. Takes 40-45 mins.
From Lucerneto Arth Goldau. Takes 25-40 mins.
From Lucerne to Weggis and Vitznau. Takes 25-45 mins.
The small medieval town of Gruyères is lovely. It is in a magnificent position on the slope of a hill, topped by a fairytale 13th-century castle whose ramparts offer a breathtaking panoramic view. So, it is understandable that this is a popular place for both tour buses and independent tourists.
It is easily accessible from Bern or the Lake Geneva region. To avoid the crowds, an early start is a good idea.
Travel to Broc Fabrique (chocolate factory), then walk through the Jogne gorges to Charmey. At Charmey the LesBains de la Gruyère (thermal baths), like Gruyères and the Jaun Pass, also have panoramic views – but while sitting in a thermal pool. They also offer treatments and wellness packages.
Photo by R. Harris
Photo by A.Leggett
Travel on the Jaun Pass. This pass branches off from Reidenbach in the Simmental valley, canton Bern then winds its way up westward to Im Klang, near Charmey in canton Fribourg. The link from Reidenbach to Charmey is approximately 25 km long and takes about 35 minutes to drive.
It passes through several small settlements and the pretty Jaun village. There is a rest areas and camping ground at the top of the pass with numerous hiking tracks branching off the road. This is a photo of me a few years ago, checking out a walk from the top of the pass (1508 m), where my mum and I bought a snack for eating at the next bench along the road.
There were no benches so we just ate the food sitting on a rock – after getting back in the car and travelling for a few minutes – we came across this bench – Murphys Law.
In winter: There are possibilities for skiing at the top of the pass and around Jaun. This ski area offers:
family friendly skiing with easy downhill slopes
sledding
winter walking and snowshoeing trails
cross-country skiing in the valley
Jaun Dorf Wasserfall Pays d’Enhaut, Schluchtenwanderung Cascade Jaun @Jan Geerk – Switzerland Tourism (2).jpg
Visit the mystical Jaun waterfall while at the village of Jaun. The source was a mystery until the 1920’s, when it was discovered that the water travels underground for 15 km, before emerging at this spring. Many people find this to be a fascinating place and a source of wellbeing.
Do a circular car journey from Gruyères to Gstaad and Zweisimmen, then back along the Jaunpass to the village of Jaun. From Jaun, the trip to Broc (home to Callier chocolate factory) is about 18 km (20 mins), then Gruyères is another 5 km.
I re-created this route on Google Maps. It came out at exactly 100km long, with a travelling time of around 2 hrs.
Drive through the Jaunpass from Spiez, on lakeThun, arriving in Charmey late in the day. Or travel by public transport, stopping at hiking spots on the way through the Jaunpass. When driving this takes about 1 hour
Travel Timeto BrocFabrique (chocolate factory)
Public Transport:
From Lausanne is around 1 hr 20 mins with train and then bus connection at Bulle.
From Bern is around 1 hr 30 mins with train and then bus connection at Bulle.
By Car:
From Lausanne, via Vevey is 45 mins (mostly motorway) to 1 hr. The second option goes alongside lake Geneva so pretty views – especially along the Route duLac through Rivaz and Saint Saphorin.
From Bern, via Fribourg is around 55 minutes.From Fribourg, around 30 mins.
You often hear about traditional craftmanship and old manual skills dying out or being replaced by modern practices. Luckily Switzerland hasn’t fully adopted a modern way of life. In fact, many of the small villages, towns and farms in Switzerland not only continue to use the old traditions, but you will find the local communities working hard to promote these traditions and skills through things like workshops, museums and tourism to ensure the knowledge is kept well and truly alive.
From Appenzell in the west to Ticino and Valais in the south, here are some places worth visiting for an authentic Swiss experience.
Appenzellerland – Local crafts and farming traditions
This whole region oozes tradition and sustainability with local produce, local crafts and traditional practices.
. Photo by Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
A special tradition that is part of the lives of the people here is the annual processions of cattle, that move between the villages and the local pastures.
Each person, cow, goat and bell has its part to play. The white goats, guided by children, lead the way. Next in line are the cows, their huge bells and the herdsmen. Finally, the horse and cart carrying supplies are found at the end. There is music, bell chimes, colour and tradition all woven into each procession.
See my Appenzell page for more details and below for the Urnäsch village traditional farmers market that coincides with the processions.
Villages and their traditions
Photo by Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
Many villages spread around the rolling hills of canton Appenzell are highly self-reliant, with the local farmers, craftspeople and artisans preserving and using the old techniques and traditional way of life. This makes farming a tough, very physical job on the steep hilly farms, however, the communities don’t just work hard together, they also celebrate hard together.
Silvesterchlausen is a special New Years Celebration that goes back centuries. It takes place on the 13th of January each year throughout the region and starts early in the morning, going through until midnight. Locals dress up as characters called ‘Silvesterchläuse Mummers’. The Urnäsch Mummers wear extremely ornate headgear (shown above). According to the Appenzell Tourism Website, these are made by hand over “hundreds of hours”.
Workshops are popular with the locals. In Urnäsch it is possible to:
Make Lanterns from sheets of iron by welding and flame cutting
Hand-craft the wooden facades of houses from local trees – hand tools are used for the complete process.
Urnäsch Village Barbara Steinemann, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Around mid-September each year, the farmers’ market, centrally located at Kronenplatz in Urnäsch offers more than 50 stalls full of local produce from farming families.
There are food stalls, entertainment, and pig races and traditional music played during the day.
In the morning, the alpine descents arrive in the village of Urnäsch, with the herdsmen moving through the village between about 9 a.m. and 1 p.m.
A shuttle bus runs from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. to the outdoor parking spaces on Appenzellerstrasse and at the Furt work station.
The Cheese Dairy inStein
The local cheese
Traditional craftsmanship and practices are used in many of the small cheese dairies in Appenzell.
Cheese-making can be experienced at the small and modern Appenzell Schaukäserei (show cheese dairy) – found deep in the green rolling hills of Appenzell Ausserrhoden, in a small village called Stein – A link to their new website is here. The village of Stein is known as the pearl of Appenzellerland with houses mostly from the 18th century in the centre.
This is a small exhibition, redesigned to showcase the traditions and processes used for making the different types of cheese from this area.
They offer:
Self-guided tours with animated film
cheese tasting & shop
A look at the living traditions and customes in Appenzell Ausserrhoden
A terrace to watch part of the cheese-making process
Restaurant
Next door: Appenzeller Folklore Museum to experience the herdsmen’s culture
Farmers from the region bring fresh and warm milk to one of the 50 authorized cheese dairies. Around 700 years of artisan traditions go into the making of Appenzeller® cheese.
It is possible to walk through the countryside from the cheese dairy. There is a signpost by the carpark and from there it is possible to wander around the hills and small farms (sometimes directly past the front door).
There are plenty of yellow benches found along the paths and roads. The views include:
the Alpstein mountains
Lake Constance
villages ( Stein is in this photo)
forests
traditional farmhouses
and, of course, cheese dairies
Getting to Urnäsch and Stein
To Schaukäserei in Stein:
Public Transport: Train/Bus: From St. Gallen – 18/20 minutes. Car:From Appenzell – 15 minutes; From St. Gallen – 15 mins.
To Urnäsch:
Public Transport: : Train: From St. Gallen, changing at Herisau – 30-40 mins, half-hourly;From Appenzell – 16 mins. Car: From Appenzell – 15 mins; From St. Gallen – approx. 30 mins.
Further Information
Appenzell Schaukäserei (cheese dairy):
Open 364 days from 9am – 5pm. Cheese-making daily until 3pm.
The story of the Zinal and Ayer hamlets in Val d’Anniviers
The area around the small village of Zinal (1670 m) was once occupied by small hamlets that were known as village-mayen – meaning they were only occupied seasonally. As far back as the 16th century, the locals would move from the mountains to the Rhône valley several times a year travelling either on foot or with carts pulled by mules. These people must have been pretty tough and rugged individuals!
In early spring they would go to Sierre to do work in the vineyards and gardens, going back in autumn to harvest the grapes.
In summer they would travel back up to the hamlets to tend to the livestock, bringing them up to the high altitude pastures and preparing hay then in Winter they would make their way back down with the livestock to Ayer to Zinal, feeding the animals the hay, cut in summer.
My guess is – at this stage, they would then hide away in the quiet valley and wrap up warm until spring. If they had snow like this who could blame them…
This lifestyle changed with the coming of tourists in the 19th Century, attracted by the natural environment and the staggering peaks of the Imperial Crown (five peaks over 4,000 m). At this time a couple of large hotels were built to accommodate the growing numbers of tourists.
These days it is possible to hike up to the original pastures and visit the traditional farm buildings that have been preserved to showcase the historical stories of this area.
Within the villages, many of the original farmhouses, community buildings and granaries have also been lovingly restored and are being re-used by the community and for tourism.
Héren cattle were part of the traditional way of life for the village-mayen people. They have certain characteristics that link them back to the wild auroch cattle that used to roam free throughout the European forests and grasslands. Their name originates from the Val d’Hérens region, west of Val d’Anniviers but they are also called fighting cows due to the fact that they designate the herd leader by fighting and locking horns. This habit has now become a spectator sport in the mountains (it is rare for the cows to become injured). More information can be found here.
The Désalpe practice of bringing the livestock up to the alpine pastures in summer and down in winter is also a celebration (as with Appenzell), by processions through the towns which include bringing down the cheese. The cows and sheep are lovingly decorated with flowers. Spectators line the streets and market stalls sell local produce.
Raclette Cheese
I encountered this ‘smelly cheese’ when we first moved to Switzerland in December 2004, or should I say, my nose first encountered it … If you have been to a Swiss Christmas market you should know what I mean.
This strong smell is from the traditional Raclette dish. The Christmas or winter markets always have a few Raclette stalls with special contraptions that melts the top layer of large chunks of cheese. This melted part is scraped off then spread over small potatoes. Some spices are sprinkled on and some mini pickles added and then the cardboard plate is handed out to the eager punters – often along with a glass of Gluhwein (mulled wine).
At first, I would give these stalls a wide berth but after tasting this cheese and getting used to the smell, I would also be one of the eager punters balancing my cheesy potato on a cardboard plate, trying to find a place to stand before burning my hand on my Gluhwein.
Raclette originates from the Valais (Wallis) region and is said to be over 400 years old. In 1812, there was mention of it as a tradition in the Val D’Anniviers region (home to Zinal. Ayer and Grimentz villages) – where sumptuous feasts would begin and close with roasted cheese (“fromage rôti”). This information is fromttmsa.ch which has a section dedicated to Raclette
Local Products found in Valais
There are plenty of ways to enjoy the local food and wine from the region. You can:
Make your own in a bread-making barn in Grimentz or
Visit the wine cellars – for a wine tasting experience – some are open for visits all year round (Good for a break from skiing).
Try a Fondue picnic. The Rando Fondue kit can be picked up from the villages of Chandolin, St-Luc, Zinal, Ayer or Grimentz.finding-the-charming-village-of-grimentz-and-the-val-danniviers-formidable-mountain-roads
Visiting the area
By Bus: Sierre – Ayers/Zinal, changing at Vissoie, approx. 45/60 mins Car: Sierre – Zinal approx. 40 mins. See sbb.ch for up-to-date info.
While in the region: In canton Valais there are several attractive villages that are car free with amazing sights and surroundings. I have listed them below.
Ticino – Scudellate – the revival of a mountain hamlet – Albergo Diffuso
Muggio Valley
Valle di Muggio – Turro-Copyright Ticino Turismo – Foto Nicola Demaldi
The traditional manufacturing processes and culinary history of the local food are important to the small towns found in this very remote valley of Ticino.
It is easy to visit this valley without your car. With the opening of the Gotthard Base Tunnel in December 2020, it is now a lot quicker to travel from northern Switzerland to the Muggio Valley by train and bus.
It takes around 3 hours 30 mins from Zürich main station by train & bus, to arrive in the small village of Scudellate at the far end of the valley. Admittedly you will need to make 4 changes to do this… To get to the towns of Muggio & Cabbio – considered two of the most attractive villages in Switzerland – it is 3 hours and 3 changes.
The Muggio Valley offers:
The 700 year old Bruzella mill (between Bruzella and Cabbio) is still in operation. This mill has an old craft workshop, produces polenta and uses rare red maize native to Ticino.
The village of Muggio has buildings made of local stone and Cabbio has lovely historical fountains.
Muggio has views of the terraced slopes across the valley.
At the end of Muggio valley lies the small village of Scudellate – with only 20 inhabitants.
A special project to preserve this village has been made possible because of the vision and work of a local man called Oscar Piffaretti.
The project opens up the well-preserved and remote villageof Scudellate, allowing tourists to experience the living traditions and local produce. The project is called Albergo Diffuso which translates as a scattered hotel and has been funded by, amongst other organisations, Swiss Mountain Aid. Additionally, there is another village in Ticino that has been transformed into an Albergo Diffuso, called Corippo in the Verzasca Valley.
The Scudellate village will offer:
Refurbished buildings including: – The pretty Osteria Manciana which is a mini-hotel with dining rooms, the old schoolhouse has also been converted to accommodation and the ForesteriaB&B with one other building being added on the Alpe Caviano.
A shop will be added to the Osteria selling local produce
Events will be offered such as cooking courses, wine tasting, and cultural excursions.
The refurbishments and building is being done in stages (21/22/23). For more information gohere.
Getting There
Public Transport from Zürich:
EC train: (Eurocity) Zürich – Lugano; S-Train Lugano – Mendrisio; Postbus Mendrisio – Morbio; Postbus Morbio – Cabbio. This connection takes 3 hours. Note: There are also other connections – see sbb.ch.
Public Transport from Locarno:
Locarno – Mendrisio 45-55 mins then postbus as above.
Driving from Zürich:
From central Zürich – Scudellate approx. 3 hrs 30 mins, via Gotthard Tunnel (can be much longer as the Gotthard Tunnel is notorious for traffic jams).
I recently visited the remote village of Grimentz in the Val d’Anniviers while staying in Sierre in the Rhône Valley.
Although the Val d’Anniviers is very accessible from Sierre (bus and car, not train), it is still a nerve-tingling road trip.
I decided to travel by bus, letting someone else worry about the switchbacks and narrow roads.
Road Trip – the adventure
I had only glanced briefly at the road map before doing this journey, thinking that the bus would take me down the valley, then zig-zag for a short while before arriving in Grimentz. I was wrong. If you look closely at a map, you will see that the zig-zagging starts early, then the road cuts into the side of the steep mountains – very high up.
The buses find it particularly tricky as they often need to use both sides of the road to negotiate these switchbacks. They will alert oncoming traffic in the nicest possible way. If you have been on any mountain road on a post bus you will know what I mean. They toot the horn which has a very distinctive & loud sing-song tune. On this particular journey, it can be heard regularly – after a few tight corners, the sing-song horn started to sound suspiciously like brace, brace, brace!
Vissoie Village Centre, Photo by A.Leggett
I was sitting beside the window closest to the drop, having a look now and then, only to see … nothing except the valley below. What amazed me was how calm all the other passengers seemed. Now and then I would frantically look around, hoping to share my obvious nervous energy with others. No one even looked at me, in fact, most of the passengers were chatting calmly or nodding off. I assumed they were locals. Their relaxed states did help calm me somewhat.
Vissoie (1204 m) is located around the centre of the valley and during the trip, the valley floor gradually gains altitude and the road’s curves become more gentle. By the time we arrived the sing-song horn was no longer needed and I had regained my composure.
From Vissoie the road splits in several directions. One way is towards my destination, Grimentz (1572 m) – higher on the southwest side of the valley; or the route to Ayer (1475 m) and Zinal (1675 m) on the southeast side. Another road zig-zags eastward to St-Luc (1,655 m). Due to Vissoie’s geographical location, this is a stage in the trip when passengers need to change buses. When I arrived there was a flurry of people with backpacks and walking poles, moving from one bright yellow bus to another, ready to continue their journey further along the valley.
After all the twists and turns of the road trip, Vissoie feels quite remote but at the same time, it has the look of a resort-style alpine village. At this point, I was looking longingly at the terraced restaurants and chalet-style cafés decorated with bright red geraniums, wanting to stop for a while before moving on, but, of course, Swiss public transport runs like clockwork and my next bus was ready to leave, with or without me.
The road from Vissoie to Grimentz passes through hills and steep meadows rather than dramatic cliffs with beautiful views down the valley.
All in all, it was an amazing experience with unbelievable views – and despite my obvious nervousness, the drivers are experts, and the roads are well maintained and safe.
The Rustic Historical Buildings and some of their Stories
This picturesque village, filled with geraniums in summer, is considered to be one of the most traditional villages of Valais. This is down to the authenticity of its centre. Many of the buildings have been incredibly well preserved with the narrow streets, alleyways and courtyards still feeling like they would have hundreds of years ago.
Traditionally this valley was home to nomadic inhabitants who lived for part of the year in the Rhône Valley. Nowadays fewer people live this way although, in summer, some residence move down to the valley to work in the vineyards.
When visiting the information centre, it is possible to purchase a guide booklet that has a simple numbered map that showing and explaining places of interest in the town.
These are some of the stories from this village:
Looking towards the main square and Bourgeoisie house
One of the oldest houses in Grimentz, found at the far end of this street, was built between 1480 and 1550. This house belonged to the “Bourgeoisie”. The exclusive membership included priority access to services like the mill and sawmill. Being a member was also a way of contributing to the community.
In 1873 a cross was erected to protect the village against fire and the elements.
The mill was understandably an important part of all the villages in this region – since it played a big part in keeping the locals fed. In Grimentz its location also housed the sawmill, bread oven, bread room and slaughterhouse.
There are three animated fountains in the village. The mill worker fountain, a fountain representing fighting Héren cows and the fountain of the baker.
A landslide in 1999 caused both the mill and the original fountain of the baker to be destroyed. The mill was then built with the original materials and the baker’s fountain was also reconstructed.
The Bread House offers tourists the opportunity to make bread in the original bread room every week. Winter: from mid-December to mid-April; Summer: from the beginning of July to the end of October. A notice on the door advises that on the days of bread making there will be smoke coming out of the building and not to be alarmed.
Originally the bread house was where families would come to make bread for the season – four times a year. The bread would, of course, harden over time but families simply cut it with an axe and soaked it in milk, coffee or soup. Perhaps we could learn a thing or two from this.
The houses in the old town mostly date from the 17th and 18th centuries. They are all made of larch which is darkened with time.
The original storehouses and granaries can be seen throughout the old town streets. They date from the 17th century. The stilts are to prevent rodents from getting in and to keep the provisions dry.
Things like dried meat, bread and flour were kept here.
Glacier Wine (Vin du Glacier)
I remember someone telling me that if you like the wine, then it is a good one… I am really curious as to how this particular wine tastes. Hint Hint.
To explain the principle behind Vin du Glacier wine, I have quoted the explanation from the Val d’Anniviers website:
“The principle of the Vin du Glacier is simple: the barrels are never emptied. Every year new wine is added to the old. For example :
– The wine in a barrel from 1888 will be blended with one from 1886 – Wine from 1934 will top up the 1888 barrel – Wine from 1969 will be used to top up the 1934 barrel and will in turn receive new wine in later years
The “Vin du Glacier” cannot be bought. It can only be savoured in the cellars of Anniviers, drawn directly from the barrel.
The cellar of the Maison Bourgeoisiale (ancient Community House) houses among others the famous Bishop’s Barrel. The wine in this larch-wood barrel dates from 1886. Once destined to the Bishop, it is served nowadays to VIP guests on special occasions.“
Quote from https://www.valdanniviers.ch/en/glacier-guided-tour-house-bourgeoisie-grimentz-960.html
It is possible to taste the Vin du Glacier wine while visiting Grimentz. (Minimum of 4 people and the language is French). Currently, it is limited to specific dates, weekly, on Mondays at 5 pm. Therefore it is best to arrange any wine tasting at the Grimentz Tourism office or Val d’Anniviers website.
Alpage de la Lée ( La Lée Alpine Pastures)is in a far corner of the Val d’Anniviers
Right at the end of the valley, there are around 800 hectares of pastures in the Alpage de la Lée area. They are spread over different levels from the Plats de la Lée up to the Zinal glacier and between the Navisence River in the valley and themountain peaks high above the valley on the west side.
In the area known as Le Vichiesso, a former alpine pasture, you will find a tsigière (alpine chalet) reconstructed in the traditional style, (a cheesestoreroom can be visited on request). Vichiesso pastures and buildings give an idea of life on the alpine pastures in the past.
Information panels can be found leading up toPetit Mountet mountain hut(2142 m) – open for eating and sleeping from June to October. There are some more traditional huts on the further up.
To get there see my orientation & info tab
Video by Cabane du Petit Mountet – Val d’Anniviers
Bisse des Sarrisins (Irrigation channels of the Saracens)
It is believed that Saracens built the irrigation channel, however, this has never been proven. They are estimated to have been built between 1415 and 1513 when the channel’s source was at a Moulinet (downstream from Pinsec).
The Bisse des Sarrisins irrigation channel is 10 km long and was used for watering livestock, irrigating the pastures and operating sawmills and mills.
Restored in the early 2000s, the Bisse des Sarrasins path is now accessible to hikers. It connects Pinsec to Vercorin and can also be reached from the village of Fang.
You will need a good head for heights in various parts on various parts of this trail.
Useful information
Season for hiking: from May to November
Duration: Approx. 3 hours
Includes: 17 educational panes along the route
Important
This mountain route is medium difficulty
It should only be attempted in dry weather
You will need a head for heights in some places
It’s each person’s responsibility to look for any changes to conditions or the roads/track before doing it.
Below is a link for more information on Bisse des Saracens and other hikes:
This Val D’Anniviers page gives details on popular trails including the Bisse des Saracens hike and hikes to alpine lakes and alpine huts.
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Visiting the Mills
The Grimentz mills date back to 1716. They were renovated in the early 1970s, and a vertical waterwheel was installed on the south façade to recreate a working site.
As mentioned on the village tab, the mill was refurbished in the traditional style, with millstones and a horizontal blade drive system, after part of it was badly damaged in May 1999
The Saint-Luc mills (Les Moulins Saint-Luc) can be found near Saint-Luc, down at the Torrent des Moulins river. These mills were built in the 16th century and renovated in 1986. On the site of the mills, you will find a corn mill, barley and nut press, 2 rye and wheat mills, a cloth mill, and the miller’s house. See the local tourism office for opening times
To get there and map see my orientation & info tab
Winter in Vissoie Village as seen from St Luc
In the past, the steep elevation of the mountains in this part of Valais caused the region to become isolated. This resulted in the formation of some unique regional dialects. Although the local population still use these dialects, they also speak standard French and German.
Interesting Fact:
The western part of the canton is mostly French-speaking (Valais) and the eastern part (Wallis) is mostly German-speaking. The mountain ridges between Val d’Anniviers and the Turtmanntal valley are considered the imaginary line or “Röstigraben” that separates the two. The clue is in the names of the valleys – Tal is German, Val is French.
See Below for Transport Information
Places mentioned in this post are displayed on the map
Transport Information
Buses leave regularly from Sierre to Vissoie (change here for connections to further down the valley, or across to St Luc). See sbb.ch for timetable and route information.
Main Routes
Sierre – Vercorin
Sierre – Vissoie
Vissoie – St-Luc
Vissoie – Grimentz
Vissoie – Grimentz – Lac de Moiry
Vissoie – (stops at Ayer) – Zinal
Cable Cars, Gondolas, chairlifts and St Luc’s Funicular
