This blog shows places that are often a side note or not found in most guide books. Let me show you my favourite spots - places that are just a bit off the beaten track in this beautiful country.
After spending a few hours hiking on an alpine trail that goes through meadows and forests; under overhanging rocks, across streams and through high valleys, it is such a wonderful feeling when the magical Oberblegisee alpine lake appears in front of you mirroring the surrounding mountain peaks.
The only access to the lake is with a gondola ride and then hiking and biking trails – keeping it well hidden.
The Walk
The walk to the lake and then to the Brunnenberg cable car takes approx. 3 hours with stops. The start is mainly flat then it goes up and down a bit before reaching the lake. A grill spot with views, a simple restaurant serving regional products and 2 self-service alpine cheese dairies are found along the route. Good to Know: They only accept cash and sometimes the TWINT app.
Getting to the Trail
The trip up the mountain starts at Linthal in the Glarus valley. This valley branches off just before Lake Walen (Walensee) and is reached by exiting the main motorway from Zürich at Glarus/Näfels (No. 44 off-ramp). The region, which includes the UNESCO World Heritage Sardona Tectonic Arena, is called Glarnerland.
Good to Know: The national public transport system (sbb.ch) offers a combi-deal – a discount when booking the complete trip through them. Get more information here.
Directions are as follows:
At Linthal Braunwaldbahn take the funicular to the car-free village of Braunwald.
Walk approx. 10-minutes to the Hüttenberg – Grotzenbüel gondola
When arriving at the Grotzenbüel ski and hiking area, look for the yellow sign (with white/red/white mountain trail markings) to OberblelgiseeRundweg.
The hiking trail ends at the Luchsingen gondola station that will take back down the valley to the Brunnenberg train station.
For more details on the funicular, gondolas(operating times), hiking trail and what time of year to do it see the Getting There section below.
The Trail
Distance: 8 km (from gondola to gondola)
Takes: approx. 3 hrs with stops.
Ascent: 77 m
Descent: 540 m
After leaving the top station of the Grotzenbüel gondola, the first part of the walk is alongside rolling pastures and forested areas with great views of the mountain range on the other side of the valley.
In the summer the dairy farms are busy making dairy products that can be enjoyed at small restaurants and Käserei (cheese dairies) throughout the whole walk.
Walking in the Glarus Mountains to Oberblegi Lake (Oberblegisee)
A lovely thick forest with wild mushrooms and ferns opens out to a wide valley. From here the trail winds uphill to a pretty little Beizli (small farm restaurant) which has a small but very tasty menu of local ingredients.
Then the wonderful Lake Oberblegisee with plenty of places for a picnic or, if you are brave, a swim.
Getting There
Hüttenberg-Grotzenbüel gondola also runs in winter for winter sports
Take the LinthalValley to Braunwaldfunicular, then walk to Hüttenberg for the gondola to Grotzenbüel to begin the walk (1,559 m).
The trail ends at the Brunnenberg cable car that travels down to the Luchsingen Valley.
In the warmer months, this alpine valley in the Swiss Alps is accessible by bus and on foot. In winter when the valley is covered in snow it is possible to do the legendary 5.5 km sled run from Grosse Scheidegg, down through the valley to Schwarzwaldalp.
The Bernese Oberland offers some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in Europe while quietly keeping the Alpine farming traditions and heritage alive. When walking in the upper valley that runs between Meiringen to Grindelwald, you feel as if you have come to a truly authentic part of Switzerland. This valley offers vistas of mighty peaks, moorlands, mossy forests, tiny hamlets with traditional farms, and country Inns.
The sound of cowbells, the wild Rychenbach river, waterfalls and the sing song warning from the Post Bus as it navigates the tight bends on the valley road all remind you exactly where you are – so typically Swiss.
Where to Start
Summer
From Meiringen – Daily bus services from 18th May 2023 – 22 October 2023
Option 1: Walking the official Via Alpina trail which rises 400m/3 km from Meiringen township to the valley.
Option 2: Take the nostalgic cog railway up this section. This runs alongside the very famous 300-metre-high Reichenbach Falls. Made famous by Arthur Conan Doyle’s short story The Final Problem where Sherlock Holmes and Professor Moriarty fight on the ledge overlooking the falls.
Winter
From Meiringen – The bus timetable can be found at postauto.ch.
Toboggan Run: 5.5 km sled run from Grosse Scheidegg down to Schwarzwaldalp, then bus back to Meiringen.
Distances
Meiringen – Grosse Scheidegg Pass
Length: 15km Ascent: 1400m (from top of cog train 1,100 m)
Grosse Scheidegg Pass – Grindelwald
Length: 8km Descent: 930 m
Ways of seeing the area – from May to October
From mid-May to mid-October the yellow post buses help you getthrough the valley.
Options: 1. Walk 2. Take the bus 3. Walk and take the bus
There are plenty of places on the walk which move away from the road. Even so, there are around 10 bus stops along the route from the top of Reichenbach Fallsin Meiringen to Grosse Scheidegg.
The Grindelwald Bus goes from Grosse Scheidegg down to Grindelwald, taking about 30 mins.
Good to Know:Private cars are not allowed to drive over the Grosse Scheidegg Pass without a permit.
Pit Stops
The lovingly restored 18th-century Rosenlaui Hotel (12th May – 15th October) comes as a big surprise when seeing it for the first time. Up until arriving at this point we only saw traditional buildings. I thought we had perhaps taken the wrong turn and were heading into Grindelwald or Interlaken but no, this lovely and inviting Inn is in the middle of this valley.
Standing at the entrance to the Rosenlaui Gorge, this well-preserved hotel was built after an influx of 18th-century artists and poets fell in love with the region and needed somewhere to stay.
Note: There are no TVs or wifi in the building and there is a photo-free zone in all public areas. I didn’t realise this when taking the photo above…
The track starts in Willingen in Meiringen and climbs approx. 300 metres to the alpine valley alongside the Reichenbach Falls. The other option, the very civilised historical cog railway built in 1899, slowly takes you up the steep slope to the edge of the falls.
We used the cog railway for this walk for two reasons – a better view of the falls and an easy start to the 1,100-metre ascent to Grosse Scheidegg (we were determined to do this section without taking the bus).
Starting the walk
From the pretty village of Zwirgi, the trail goes gradually uphill through a forest beside the road, and for a short time, on the road. The track then leads deeper into the forest and then out to wide meadows with the iconic Wellhorn mountain dominating the skyline.
This grill has the best views you could ask for. I loved the rustic wooden shelter which seemed to have everything needed for a grill – seating, frypans, tongs and even an axe! We were tempted to stop but knew the Rosenlaui Hotel was close. We really felt like a cold drink, so after taking a few photos we moved on.
The Rosenlaui Hotel is gorgeous – lovely staff and an amazing setting. After a quick look at the little waterfall on the grounds of the Hotel (the waiter kindly let us know it was there), we made our way past the Rosenlaui Glacier Gorgeentrance – (a possible side trip), through a very mossy forest to the little hamlet of chalets at Schwarzwaldalp.
The final stage of this walk passes through wild woodlands with jaw-dropping views of the Wellhorn mountains and the Wetterhorn.
At this point of the walk, the trail becomes very steep but luckily there are plenty of benches for resting and refueling.
We celebrated our achievement with a drink at the Berghotel Grosse Scheidegg, then caught the bus to Grindelwald. This 30-minute bus ride can be seriously panoramic – depending on the weather.
There are plenty of other walks from Grosse Scheidegg. A couple of options:
Continue down the valley to complete stage 10 of the Via Alpina trail.
Across to First with views of majestic mountains Eiger, Schreckhorn and Wetterhorn. (First also offers one of Grindelwald’s top five adventures – flying across a sun terrace while strapped into a harness).
Links to Swiss Mobility Map
Swiss Mobility has a well-detailed map with a height profile and tips on saving altitude. A link to the complete Stage 10 of the Via Alpina trail (Meiringen – Grindelwald) can be found here. It is possible to continue onwards by following the Via Alpina – offical walking route number 1. This Route crosses 14 Alpine passes, with a distance of 390 km and has 20 stages.
If you have ever been to the Rheinfalls you will know how impressive they are. A huge amount of water gushes and roars along the river then plunges over huge rocks, whirling and swirling to the next level. The fairytale castle – Schloss Laufen, observes from above. These waterfalls and the dramatic forested landscape can be seen up close and personal from a walkway, a huge rock in the middle of the Rhine, or a boat. Every now and then a train chugs across the solid Rheinbrücke bei Laufen bridge into a tunnel under the castle, before stopping at the Schloss Laufen train station. This is definitely a very cool place to visit.
However, the Rheinfalls is understandably very popular with tourists – they flock to the area to get a view of the roaring waterfall, filling the boats, and walkways. For this reason and also when the weather is cold and rainy, it is nice to have another option close by.
Smilestones is an Indoor Miniature world. It is found opposite the castle on the other side of the Rhine in a large warehouse. It offers a chance to experience not only the Rheinfall attractions but some of the most iconic and better-known Swiss sights. (I went here recently and definitely recommend it).
Swiss Milestones (Smilestones)
Markets pop up to fit the seasons. A.Leggett
From Smilestones indoor arena, it is possible to look down on the Rheinfalls from above, distancing yourself from the crowds and the tiny boats below. The whole Rheinfalls area is shown in great detail including the forested hills, railway bridge, tunnel and castle. From here you can make your way to Schaffhausen’s old town and towers, then visit a miniature Appenzell with its colourful houses and Alpstein mountains – cable cars move up and down at the push of a button. You can then stop and look closely at the people (23,000) enjoying their day on restaurant terraces, in the villages, or watch as they bike, hike, dance and celebrate. It is then possible to observe all this at night when the lights go on (a total of 8,000). This short night cycle is every 15 minutes, giving just enough time to look into windows of buildings or see the whole exhibit lit up like a Christmas tree.
Swiss Rail – on time as usual. A.Leggett
When wandering past the sweeping views of life in Switzerland all kinds of trains snake past. They make their way through the towns, into tunnels, and past stations. If you follow them you will eventually end up in the Bernese Oberland. When here they chug past alpine villages perched on mountainsides, waterfalls, industry and holiday resorts. You will see the snow-covered Jungfrau, Mönch, Eiger and the iconic Matterhorn in miniature – still looking very impressive.
Stein am Rhein in canton Schaffhausen@smilestones
It is possible to stop and peer into a cheese dairy, the Lindt & Sprüngli chocolate factory and a watch factory. At the chocolate factory it pays to push the green glowing button, you may be rewarded with chocolate. It happened to me.
This place is lots of fun. It does feel like you are a giant – peering into the everyday lives of the Swiss. You can even get a magnifying glass to see the details – some funny and some thought-provoking.
There is a saying in Swiss German – Häsch xeh? Meaning “Did you see that”? This is the promotional phrase used by Smilestones. I think it fits well with the exhibit since the more you look, the more you see – whether it is the antics of the people or what is seen inside buildings, under the water, or hanging from the side of a mountain… In fact, some things may confuse you. This is because the Swiss have their inside jokes, traditional songs and tales which anyone outside the country may not get. This is when you will need to ask “Why”?
I’m sure you could ask a friendly Swiss person standing close to you. It may be a good opportunity to get a real insight into Swiss culture.
My favouritesdisplays:
The vehicles driving along, then held up by annoying roadworks. The use of blinkers to turn corners and the sing song horn noise as the Post buses go around the switchback roads.
People dancing, being told off by police and biking around a lake (actually peddling).
The lights on in the houses, trains and streetlamps at night.
Cable cars and funiculars
Funny little events to make you stop, really look and smile – there are plenty of these.
Buttons to interact with the displays.
Mountains
Trains, trains and more trains.
Discovering how it all works – it is also possible to do a behind the scenes tour.
By Bus from Schaffhausen to Neuhausen Zentrum, 15 mins; By TrainSchaffhausen to Neuhausen Rheinfall, 7 mins,
By Train from Zürich toSchloss Laufen am Rheinfall (other side of Rhine). From the station take lift up to castle, then follow signposts. Is a 10-minute walk across the railway bridge’s walkway.
By Car From Central Schaffhausen to Industrieplatz, Neuhausen am Rheinfall is approx. 7 mins drive; From central Zürich, approx. 40 mins drive- 50 km (direction Schaffhausen).
Countryside near Lake Lucerne with Rigi in the background
Many of the places that I like to visit are popular. Lucerne, for example, with its idyllic lake setting and surrounding mountains and, of course, the nearby state of the art cable cars that climb iconic peaks like Pilatus, Stanserhorn and Titlis are also worth waiting in line for.
Fairytale medieval towns like Gruyères in canton Fribourg with its idyllic setting and hilltop castle along with the western town of Appenzell with its colorful houses, traditions and tasty cheese pull in the crowds.
These are places that should be on the itinerary when in Switzerland, even if they can be crowded at times. This is because they have managed to stay authentic and traditional despite all the visitors, souvenir shops and tour buses.
However, is is easy to find other places in these regions that are just as idyllic, but a bit more off the tourist track. All it takes is a day trip by local train, bus, or a drive in the car to find them.
I discovered the places in this post when I was visiting Gruyères town and the region of la Gruyère, Appenzell – canton and town, St. Gallen and Lucerne. I have gone into great detail about getting around (Getting There Section) because I think the drive or train journey there can be just as entertaining as the destination.
A friend and I decided to visit the Schaukäserei (show cheese dairy) in Stein, canton Appenzell Ausserrhoden. This cheese dairy has recently been renovated and now has an exhibition that showcases the Appenzell cheese brand and the traditional family-run dairies in the area.
After learning about the culture and the cheese-making process of the region, we decided to zip up our jackets and take off into the countryside for a short walk.
There is a detailed signpost close to the dairy giving us all the options – themed walks, hill walks, mountain hikes, official Swiss trails… we just wanted to get some fresh air.
We found a combination of walks that meant we could circle around, back to the car. It was only about 2km of walking so suited our schedule.
Yellow benches, can be found all over the countryside, tempting us to sit and look at the panorama of deep green hills dotted with traditional Appenzell farms (probably a few cheese dairies as well).
While we walked and chatted we had great views of the Alpstein mountains rising up sharply, a distant view of Lake Constance and also many more little yellow benches.
You could almost do a join the dots with these benches – the shape would probably be a cow or goat.
We used one to stop for a snack. From here we could see the little town of Stein with its church steeple pointing elegantly upwards and hear cowbells clanging away in all directions. It was all so typically Swiss!
We made it back to the car in record time with a promise to each other that we will do this again but next time we will try the mountain hike.
A small museum next door to the cheese dairy (Volkskunde Museum) exhibits all sorts of historical Appenzell treasures to do with agriculture, housing and traditions. You can view historical items which have been beautifully crafted and preserved. It is possible to get a combi ticket for the cheese diary and museum.
Something fun close by . . .
Kronberg (1,657 m) Cable Car, summer Toboggan Run and Rope Park
This cable car leaves from Jakobsbad (884 m), between the villages of Urnäsch and Gonten. Jakobsbad rail station is on a small railway track that goes from Appenzell (12 mins).
There is also a large Seilpark (rope park) here. They have plenty of challenging rope obstacles to negotiate as well as 25 different ziplines that zip around the park. You can also find a Barfussweg (barefoot path) near the cable car station and hiking paths.
Getting to Stein and Jakobsbad in Appenzell
By Public Transport
From Zürich to SteinAR, change at Rapperswil & Herisau, 1 hour 40 mins.
From Zürich to SteinAR, change at St. Gallen, 1 hour 40 mins.
From St. Gallen to SteinAR, 20 mins by bus.
When travelling from Appenzell to SteinAR by public transport, athough they are close as the crow flies, it is still a 50 mins to 1 hr train/bus trip. It is better to go from St. Gallen or perhaps by doing a hike.
Toggenburg is a hilly and mountainous region that sits south of Lake Constance. It is around an 1 hr 20 mins drive or a 2-hour train journey from Zürich.
This region with its wide valley extends southward from Highway 1 – the northern motorway crossing Switzerland – almost down to the main western road skirting the Austria and Liechtenstein borders.
The landscape is mostly countryside with pretty houses sitting around the green slopes that rise up gently from the Thur river valley. This long valley is framed by rugged, and sometimes sharp mountain peaks of the Alpstein Massif to the northeast and the Churfirsten Massif to the west.
The Churfirsten Massif is very distinctive with its jagged peaks that look a bit like pointy teeth.
More about these peaks and hiking suggestions can be found on my canton St. Gallenpage.
The Churfirsten Massif’s “pointy teeth” in winter
This region offers plenty of ways to get above the fog in autumn or winter. There are several cable cars and chairlifts that lead up to themed hiking trails, alpine trails, ski pistes, lookout points and alpine restaurants. One option is the well-hidden Wolzenalp area.
View from Wolzenalp Chairlift to Säntis (left) and the Churfirsten mountains (right)
This little chairlift station is well hidden from the road – in fact, we didn’t really see it until we drove past. Once you see it there is no mistaking what it is. The side of the station has the word Wolzenalp painted a colourful sky blue with a bright yellow sun smiling above it.
What not to do – don’t choose Krummenau-Wolzenalp in the SatNav – this will take you up this winding road to the top of the chair lift. Most of this narrow country road is only for use by locals and cyclists. Instead, put in Wolzenalp, Krummenswil. There is also the Krummenau train station a few minutes walk away from the bottom chairlift station.
From the top of the chairlift, there is a short walk through part of the moor and alongside a good grill spot to the restaurant with terrace and also the start of loads of walking possibilities.
We followed the white/red/white signs painted on rocks, posts, and buildings. We would’ve been lost without them.
The steep climb was worth it just to see this view
We were going to walk to Speer (a jagged, imposing peak at 1900 metres above sea level), but decided to do the Gebirgsrundweg (mountain circular trail) instead. That was challenging enough. At one point we were zig-zagging up a very steep hillside with no clear path to follow. The one thing you can count on is the white, red, white stripes painted on – amongst other things – rocks, buildings and fence posts, that are spread out like breadcrumbs along the trail.
view from chair lift up to Wolzenalp
We followed these up steep hills, through meadows, across a lovely soft moor landscape – a bit like walking on a moss-covered mattress – then finally back downhill to the restaurant. Was a great walk with views of quiet spaces and hidden corners. I loved it!
Next time to Speer – maybe.
Waldhaus – Toggenburg
Other hiking paths leave from Waldhaus in the Toggenburg Region – also great for winter walks, snowshoeing, sledding and skiing.
Getting to Toggenburg
By Public Transport
From Zürich to Krummenau – takes 1 hour 18 mins, changing twice. Once at Rapperswil (down the side of Lake Zürich and also worth a visit).
From St. Gallen to Krummenau The S2 train takes 45 mins with no changes.
By Car:
From central Zürich – takes just over an hour, via Winterthur (A1) or down the west side of Lake Zürich (A3).
Links
Wolzenalp:
Link to video showing the ski resort and winter activities. (Beautiful video)
Even though Rigi sounds like the name of just one mountain, it is actually a Massif made up of several peaks, valleys and meadows. Rigi is on the edge of Lake Lucerne on one side and a wide valley that is home to Zug, Arth Goldau and Schwyz on the other. It spans two cantons – Schwyz and Lucerne.
This mountainous area has been a popular hiking and leisure region for hundreds of years. According to the tourist booklet “Rigi, Queen of the Mountains“, by Ron Smith, the rack railway that climbs from Vitznau at the edge of Lake Lucerne up the side of Rigi, first opened in 1871. It was apparently the first of its kind in Europe.
I recently did a day trip up the mountain, hoping to get above the clouds – I was mostly successful.
I hopped on the sleek bronze Sudostbahn (southeast) train from Zürich early in the morning and travelled alongside Lakes Zürich and Zug to my destination, Arth Goldau.
Right from the beginning of the trip from Zürich to Arth Goldau, there is some lovely scenery. This trip runs along Lake Zürich (left side of the train) with the city spread along hillsides on both sides and the alps rising up in the distance. The next stop is the town of Zug and its lake (right side of the train). Lush green hills rise up from the lake and more mountain peaks can be seen in the distance.
The last stop – Arth Goldau is a large town found at the end of Lake Zug.
The RigiBahn cog train leaves from the edge of this train station, slowly snaking its way around the mountain to the highest summit – Rigi Kulm. The train travels through forests in the Rigiaa valley (this is not a spelling mistake – Aa derives from the name for small European river) and past small stations with names like Klösterli and Fruttli, upwards to the Rigi Kulm peak.
Rigi Kulm – Train station inWinter; Arriving in the fog; View of Lake Zug once the fog had cleared
It was very quiet on the summit. Only about half a dozen people left the train with me which seemed a small amount considering how popular this place is for the Swiss. I then noticed that the restaurant and terrace were closed and the lookout point was disappearing in the cloud. So the fact that I ended up alone at the top was no longer a surprise. (Not sure where the other people disappeared to… somewhere in the fog – I didn’t see them again).
The clouds soon cleared and I had a magnificent 360-degree view – all on my own.
There’s a small and friendly tearoom with outdoor benches and toilets beside the tracks which was good enough for a refuel before starting my walk.
Warning – as these are the only two options at the top, some of the food and all of the drinks are pricey.
Other options are the farm restaurants and grill spots along the way. Alp Chäserenholz is a tavern that can be found around 1.5km downhill from the start of the walk. This place offers some special treats – but you will need to reserve. A Whey bath, hot tub and sauna! Here is the link for more information. Chäserenholzhütte
If the tavern is full – there is a largebbq across the track and another few further down the path.
There are around 120 km of prepared hiking trails in summer and around 35 km in winter available on Rigi. My small walk was just the start. It is possible to get a Rigi Hiking Ticket which gives you the chance to combine hikes with transport on the cable cars and trains. See the rigi.ch/hiking-ticketlink for details.
Although this hike is mostly on farm roads, it still feels remote.
Klösterli Train station – it is like stepping back in time when entering this small station.
My walk from Rigi Kulm – Rigi’s peak – down to Klösterli train station
Travelling to Rigi Kulm (Lake Zug side) and Rigi Kaltbad then Kulm (Lake Lucerne side).
Public Transport:
By Boat on Lake Lucerne:
When travelling by boat from Lucerne there are 2 towns that have transport up to Rigi Kulm (the top) – Weggis or Vitznau:
Weggis to Rigi Kaltbad on the cable car, then cog rail up to Rigi Kulm.
Vitznau to Rigi Kulm on the cog rail.
By Train:
From Lucerne to Arth Goldau – takes about 32 mins.
From Zürich, via Zug to Arth Goldau. Takes 40-45 mins.
Then the cog rail to Rigi Kulm (top) takes about 45 mins.
By Car:
From Zürich via Zug to the RigiBahn cog railway at Arth Goldau train station. Takes 40-45 mins.
From Lucerneto Arth Goldau. Takes 25-40 mins.
From Lucerne to Weggis and Vitznau. Takes 25-45 mins.
The small medieval town of Gruyères is lovely. It is in a magnificent position on the slope of a hill, topped by a fairytale 13th-century castle whose ramparts offer a breathtaking panoramic view. So, it is understandable that this is a popular place for both tour buses and independent tourists.
It is easily accessible from Bern or the Lake Geneva region. To avoid the crowds, an early start is a good idea.
Travel to Broc Fabrique (chocolate factory), then walk through the Jogne gorges to Charmey. At Charmey the LesBains de la Gruyère (thermal baths), like Gruyères and the Jaun Pass, also have panoramic views – but while sitting in a thermal pool. They also offer treatments and wellness packages.
Photo by R. Harris
Photo by A.Leggett
Travel on the Jaun Pass. This pass branches off from Reidenbach in the Simmental valley, canton Bern then winds its way up westward to Im Klang, near Charmey in canton Fribourg. The link from Reidenbach to Charmey is approximately 25 km long and takes about 35 minutes to drive.
It passes through several small settlements and the pretty Jaun village. There is a rest areas and camping ground at the top of the pass with numerous hiking tracks branching off the road. This is a photo of me a few years ago, checking out a walk from the top of the pass (1508 m), where my mum and I bought a snack for eating at the next bench along the road.
There were no benches so we just ate the food sitting on a rock – after getting back in the car and travelling for a few minutes – we came across this bench – Murphys Law.
In winter: There are possibilities for skiing at the top of the pass and around Jaun. This ski area offers:
family friendly skiing with easy downhill slopes
sledding
winter walking and snowshoeing trails
cross-country skiing in the valley
Jaun Dorf Wasserfall Pays d’Enhaut, Schluchtenwanderung Cascade Jaun @Jan Geerk – Switzerland Tourism (2).jpg
Visit the mystical Jaun waterfall while at the village of Jaun. The source was a mystery until the 1920’s, when it was discovered that the water travels underground for 15 km, before emerging at this spring. Many people find this to be a fascinating place and a source of wellbeing.
Do a circular car journey from Gruyères to Gstaad and Zweisimmen, then back along the Jaunpass to the village of Jaun. From Jaun, the trip to Broc (home to Callier chocolate factory) is about 18 km (20 mins), then Gruyères is another 5 km.
I re-created this route on Google Maps. It came out at exactly 100km long, with a travelling time of around 2 hrs.
Drive through the Jaunpass from Spiez, on lakeThun, arriving in Charmey late in the day. Or travel by public transport, stopping at hiking spots on the way through the Jaunpass. When driving this takes about 1 hour
Travel Timeto BrocFabrique (chocolate factory)
Public Transport:
From Lausanne is around 1 hr 20 mins with train and then bus connection at Bulle.
From Bern is around 1 hr 30 mins with train and then bus connection at Bulle.
By Car:
From Lausanne, via Vevey is 45 mins (mostly motorway) to 1 hr. The second option goes alongside lake Geneva so pretty views – especially along the Route duLac through Rivaz and Saint Saphorin.
From Bern, via Fribourg is around 55 minutes.From Fribourg, around 30 mins.
You often hear about traditional craftmanship and old manual skills dying out or being replaced by modern practices. Luckily Switzerland hasn’t fully adopted a modern way of life. In fact, many of the small villages, towns and farms in Switzerland not only continue to use the old traditions, but you will find the local communities working hard to promote these traditions and skills through things like workshops, museums and tourism to ensure the knowledge is kept well and truly alive.
From Appenzell in the west to Ticino and Valais in the south, here are some places worth visiting for an authentic Swiss experience.
Appenzellerland – Local crafts and farming traditions
This whole region oozes tradition and sustainability with local produce, local crafts and traditional practices.
. Photo by Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
A special tradition that is part of the lives of the people here is the annual processions of cattle, that move between the villages and the local pastures.
Each person, cow, goat and bell has its part to play. The white goats, guided by children, lead the way. Next in line are the cows, their huge bells and the herdsmen. Finally, the horse and cart carrying supplies are found at the end. There is music, bell chimes, colour and tradition all woven into each procession.
See my Appenzell page for more details and below for the Urnäsch village traditional farmers market that coincides with the processions.
Villages and their traditions
Photo by Appenzellerland Tourismus AR Archives
Many villages spread around the rolling hills of canton Appenzell are highly self-reliant, with the local farmers, craftspeople and artisans preserving and using the old techniques and traditional way of life. This makes farming a tough, very physical job on the steep hilly farms, however, the communities don’t just work hard together, they also celebrate hard together.
Silvesterchlausen is a special New Years Celebration that goes back centuries. It takes place on the 13th of January each year throughout the region and starts early in the morning, going through until midnight. Locals dress up as characters called ‘Silvesterchläuse Mummers’. The Urnäsch Mummers wear extremely ornate headgear (shown above). According to the Appenzell Tourism Website, these are made by hand over “hundreds of hours”.
Workshops are popular with the locals. In Urnäsch it is possible to:
Make Lanterns from sheets of iron by welding and flame cutting
Hand-craft the wooden facades of houses from local trees – hand tools are used for the complete process.
Urnäsch Village Barbara Steinemann, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Around mid-September each year, the farmers’ market, centrally located at Kronenplatz in Urnäsch offers more than 50 stalls full of local produce from farming families.
There are food stalls, entertainment, and pig races and traditional music played during the day.
In the morning, the alpine descents arrive in the village of Urnäsch, with the herdsmen moving through the village between about 9 a.m. and 1 p.m.
A shuttle bus runs from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. to the outdoor parking spaces on Appenzellerstrasse and at the Furt work station.
The Cheese Dairy inStein
The local cheese
Traditional craftsmanship and practices are used in many of the small cheese dairies in Appenzell.
Cheese-making can be experienced at the small and modern Appenzell Schaukäserei (show cheese dairy) – found deep in the green rolling hills of Appenzell Ausserrhoden, in a small village called Stein – A link to their new website is here. The village of Stein is known as the pearl of Appenzellerland with houses mostly from the 18th century in the centre.
This is a small exhibition, redesigned to showcase the traditions and processes used for making the different types of cheese from this area.
They offer:
Self-guided tours with animated film
cheese tasting & shop
A look at the living traditions and customes in Appenzell Ausserrhoden
A terrace to watch part of the cheese-making process
Restaurant
Next door: Appenzeller Folklore Museum to experience the herdsmen’s culture
Farmers from the region bring fresh and warm milk to one of the 50 authorized cheese dairies. Around 700 years of artisan traditions go into the making of Appenzeller® cheese.
It is possible to walk through the countryside from the cheese dairy. There is a signpost by the carpark and from there it is possible to wander around the hills and small farms (sometimes directly past the front door).
There are plenty of yellow benches found along the paths and roads. The views include:
the Alpstein mountains
Lake Constance
villages ( Stein is in this photo)
forests
traditional farmhouses
and, of course, cheese dairies
Getting to Urnäsch and Stein
To Schaukäserei in Stein:
Public Transport: Train/Bus: From St. Gallen – 18/20 minutes. Car:From Appenzell – 15 minutes; From St. Gallen – 15 mins.
To Urnäsch:
Public Transport: : Train: From St. Gallen, changing at Herisau – 30-40 mins, half-hourly;From Appenzell – 16 mins. Car: From Appenzell – 15 mins; From St. Gallen – approx. 30 mins.
Further Information
Appenzell Schaukäserei (cheese dairy):
Open 364 days from 9am – 5pm. Cheese-making daily until 3pm.
The story of the Zinal and Ayer hamlets in Val d’Anniviers
The area around the small village of Zinal (1670 m) was once occupied by small hamlets that were known as village-mayen – meaning they were only occupied seasonally. As far back as the 16th century, the locals would move from the mountains to the Rhône valley several times a year travelling either on foot or with carts pulled by mules. These people must have been pretty tough and rugged individuals!
In early spring they would go to Sierre to do work in the vineyards and gardens, going back in autumn to harvest the grapes.
In summer they would travel back up to the hamlets to tend to the livestock, bringing them up to the high altitude pastures and preparing hay then in Winter they would make their way back down with the livestock to Ayer to Zinal, feeding the animals the hay, cut in summer.
My guess is – at this stage, they would then hide away in the quiet valley and wrap up warm until spring. If they had snow like this who could blame them…
This lifestyle changed with the coming of tourists in the 19th Century, attracted by the natural environment and the staggering peaks of the Imperial Crown (five peaks over 4,000 m). At this time a couple of large hotels were built to accommodate the growing numbers of tourists.
These days it is possible to hike up to the original pastures and visit the traditional farm buildings that have been preserved to showcase the historical stories of this area.
Within the villages, many of the original farmhouses, community buildings and granaries have also been lovingly restored and are being re-used by the community and for tourism.
Héren cattle were part of the traditional way of life for the village-mayen people. They have certain characteristics that link them back to the wild auroch cattle that used to roam free throughout the European forests and grasslands. Their name originates from the Val d’Hérens region, west of Val d’Anniviers but they are also called fighting cows due to the fact that they designate the herd leader by fighting and locking horns. This habit has now become a spectator sport in the mountains (it is rare for the cows to become injured). More information can be found here.
The Désalpe practice of bringing the livestock up to the alpine pastures in summer and down in winter is also a celebration (as with Appenzell), by processions through the towns which include bringing down the cheese. The cows and sheep are lovingly decorated with flowers. Spectators line the streets and market stalls sell local produce.
Raclette Cheese
I encountered this ‘smelly cheese’ when we first moved to Switzerland in December 2004, or should I say, my nose first encountered it … If you have been to a Swiss Christmas market you should know what I mean.
This strong smell is from the traditional Raclette dish. The Christmas or winter markets always have a few Raclette stalls with special contraptions that melts the top layer of large chunks of cheese. This melted part is scraped off then spread over small potatoes. Some spices are sprinkled on and some mini pickles added and then the cardboard plate is handed out to the eager punters – often along with a glass of Gluhwein (mulled wine).
At first, I would give these stalls a wide berth but after tasting this cheese and getting used to the smell, I would also be one of the eager punters balancing my cheesy potato on a cardboard plate, trying to find a place to stand before burning my hand on my Gluhwein.
Raclette originates from the Valais (Wallis) region and is said to be over 400 years old. In 1812, there was mention of it as a tradition in the Val D’Anniviers region (home to Zinal. Ayer and Grimentz villages) – where sumptuous feasts would begin and close with roasted cheese (“fromage rôti”). This information is fromttmsa.ch which has a section dedicated to Raclette
Local Products found in Valais
There are plenty of ways to enjoy the local food and wine from the region. You can:
Make your own in a bread-making barn in Grimentz or
Visit the wine cellars – for a wine tasting experience – some are open for visits all year round (Good for a break from skiing).
Try a Fondue picnic. The Rando Fondue kit can be picked up from the villages of Chandolin, St-Luc, Zinal, Ayer or Grimentz.finding-the-charming-village-of-grimentz-and-the-val-danniviers-formidable-mountain-roads
Visiting the area
By Bus: Sierre – Ayers/Zinal, changing at Vissoie, approx. 45/60 mins Car: Sierre – Zinal approx. 40 mins. See sbb.ch for up-to-date info.
While in the region: In canton Valais there are several attractive villages that are car free with amazing sights and surroundings. I have listed them below.
Ticino – Scudellate – the revival of a mountain hamlet – Albergo Diffuso
Muggio Valley
Valle di Muggio – Turro-Copyright Ticino Turismo – Foto Nicola Demaldi
The traditional manufacturing processes and culinary history of the local food are important to the small towns found in this very remote valley of Ticino.
It is easy to visit this valley without your car. With the opening of the Gotthard Base Tunnel in December 2020, it is now a lot quicker to travel from northern Switzerland to the Muggio Valley by train and bus.
It takes around 3 hours 30 mins from Zürich main station by train & bus, to arrive in the small village of Scudellate at the far end of the valley. Admittedly you will need to make 4 changes to do this… To get to the towns of Muggio & Cabbio – considered two of the most attractive villages in Switzerland – it is 3 hours and 3 changes.
The Muggio Valley offers:
The 700 year old Bruzella mill (between Bruzella and Cabbio) is still in operation. This mill has an old craft workshop, produces polenta and uses rare red maize native to Ticino.
The village of Muggio has buildings made of local stone and Cabbio has lovely historical fountains.
Muggio has views of the terraced slopes across the valley.
At the end of Muggio valley lies the small village of Scudellate – with only 20 inhabitants.
A special project to preserve this village has been made possible because of the vision and work of a local man called Oscar Piffaretti.
The project opens up the well-preserved and remote villageof Scudellate, allowing tourists to experience the living traditions and local produce. The project is called Albergo Diffuso which translates as a scattered hotel and has been funded by, amongst other organisations, Swiss Mountain Aid. Additionally, there is another village in Ticino that has been transformed into an Albergo Diffuso, called Corippo in the Verzasca Valley.
The Scudellate village will offer:
Refurbished buildings including: – The pretty Osteria Manciana which is a mini-hotel with dining rooms, the old schoolhouse has also been converted to accommodation and the ForesteriaB&B with one other building being added on the Alpe Caviano.
A shop will be added to the Osteria selling local produce
Events will be offered such as cooking courses, wine tasting, and cultural excursions.
The refurbishments and building is being done in stages (21/22/23). For more information gohere.
Getting There
Public Transport from Zürich:
EC train: (Eurocity) Zürich – Lugano; S-Train Lugano – Mendrisio; Postbus Mendrisio – Morbio; Postbus Morbio – Cabbio. This connection takes 3 hours. Note: There are also other connections – see sbb.ch.
Public Transport from Locarno:
Locarno – Mendrisio 45-55 mins then postbus as above.
Driving from Zürich:
From central Zürich – Scudellate approx. 3 hrs 30 mins, via Gotthard Tunnel (can be much longer as the Gotthard Tunnel is notorious for traffic jams).
I recently visited the remote village of Grimentz in the Val d’Anniviers while staying in Sierre in the Rhône Valley.
Although the Val d’Anniviers is very accessible from Sierre (bus and car, not train), it is still a nerve-tingling road trip.
I decided to travel by bus, letting someone else worry about the switchbacks and narrow roads.
Road Trip – the adventure
I had only glanced briefly at the road map before doing this journey, thinking that the bus would take me down the valley, then zig-zag for a short while before arriving in Grimentz. I was wrong. If you look closely at a map, you will see that the zig-zagging starts early, then the road cuts into the side of the steep mountains – very high up.
The buses find it particularly tricky as they often need to use both sides of the road to negotiate these switchbacks. They will alert oncoming traffic in the nicest possible way. If you have been on any mountain road on a post bus you will know what I mean. They toot the horn which has a very distinctive & loud sing-song tune. On this particular journey, it can be heard regularly – after a few tight corners, the sing-song horn started to sound suspiciously like brace, brace, brace!
Vissoie Village Centre, Photo by A.Leggett
I was sitting beside the window closest to the drop, having a look now and then, only to see … nothing except the valley below. What amazed me was how calm all the other passengers seemed. Now and then I would frantically look around, hoping to share my obvious nervous energy with others. No one even looked at me, in fact, most of the passengers were chatting calmly or nodding off. I assumed they were locals. Their relaxed states did help calm me somewhat.
Vissoie (1204 m) is located around the centre of the valley and during the trip, the valley floor gradually gains altitude and the road’s curves become more gentle. By the time we arrived the sing-song horn was no longer needed and I had regained my composure.
From Vissoie the road splits in several directions. One way is towards my destination, Grimentz (1572 m) – higher on the southwest side of the valley; or the route to Ayer (1475 m) and Zinal (1675 m) on the southeast side. Another road zig-zags eastward to St-Luc (1,655 m). Due to Vissoie’s geographical location, this is a stage in the trip when passengers need to change buses. When I arrived there was a flurry of people with backpacks and walking poles, moving from one bright yellow bus to another, ready to continue their journey further along the valley.
After all the twists and turns of the road trip, Vissoie feels quite remote but at the same time, it has the look of a resort-style alpine village. At this point, I was looking longingly at the terraced restaurants and chalet-style cafés decorated with bright red geraniums, wanting to stop for a while before moving on, but, of course, Swiss public transport runs like clockwork and my next bus was ready to leave, with or without me.
The road from Vissoie to Grimentz passes through hills and steep meadows rather than dramatic cliffs with beautiful views down the valley.
All in all, it was an amazing experience with unbelievable views – and despite my obvious nervousness, the drivers are experts, and the roads are well maintained and safe.
The Rustic Historical Buildings and some of their Stories
This picturesque village, filled with geraniums in summer, is considered to be one of the most traditional villages of Valais. This is down to the authenticity of its centre. Many of the buildings have been incredibly well preserved with the narrow streets, alleyways and courtyards still feeling like they would have hundreds of years ago.
Traditionally this valley was home to nomadic inhabitants who lived for part of the year in the Rhône Valley. Nowadays fewer people live this way although, in summer, some residence move down to the valley to work in the vineyards.
When visiting the information centre, it is possible to purchase a guide booklet that has a simple numbered map that showing and explaining places of interest in the town.
These are some of the stories from this village:
Looking towards the main square and Bourgeoisie house
One of the oldest houses in Grimentz, found at the far end of this street, was built between 1480 and 1550. This house belonged to the “Bourgeoisie”. The exclusive membership included priority access to services like the mill and sawmill. Being a member was also a way of contributing to the community.
In 1873 a cross was erected to protect the village against fire and the elements.
The mill was understandably an important part of all the villages in this region – since it played a big part in keeping the locals fed. In Grimentz its location also housed the sawmill, bread oven, bread room and slaughterhouse.
There are three animated fountains in the village. The mill worker fountain, a fountain representing fighting Héren cows and the fountain of the baker.
A landslide in 1999 caused both the mill and the original fountain of the baker to be destroyed. The mill was then built with the original materials and the baker’s fountain was also reconstructed.
The Bread House offers tourists the opportunity to make bread in the original bread room every week. Winter: from mid-December to mid-April; Summer: from the beginning of July to the end of October. A notice on the door advises that on the days of bread making there will be smoke coming out of the building and not to be alarmed.
Originally the bread house was where families would come to make bread for the season – four times a year. The bread would, of course, harden over time but families simply cut it with an axe and soaked it in milk, coffee or soup. Perhaps we could learn a thing or two from this.
The houses in the old town mostly date from the 17th and 18th centuries. They are all made of larch which is darkened with time.
The original storehouses and granaries can be seen throughout the old town streets. They date from the 17th century. The stilts are to prevent rodents from getting in and to keep the provisions dry.
Things like dried meat, bread and flour were kept here.
Glacier Wine (Vin du Glacier)
I remember someone telling me that if you like the wine, then it is a good one… I am really curious as to how this particular wine tastes. Hint Hint.
To explain the principle behind Vin du Glacier wine, I have quoted the explanation from the Val d’Anniviers website:
“The principle of the Vin du Glacier is simple: the barrels are never emptied. Every year new wine is added to the old. For example :
– The wine in a barrel from 1888 will be blended with one from 1886 – Wine from 1934 will top up the 1888 barrel – Wine from 1969 will be used to top up the 1934 barrel and will in turn receive new wine in later years
The “Vin du Glacier” cannot be bought. It can only be savoured in the cellars of Anniviers, drawn directly from the barrel.
The cellar of the Maison Bourgeoisiale (ancient Community House) houses among others the famous Bishop’s Barrel. The wine in this larch-wood barrel dates from 1886. Once destined to the Bishop, it is served nowadays to VIP guests on special occasions.“
Quote from https://www.valdanniviers.ch/en/glacier-guided-tour-house-bourgeoisie-grimentz-960.html
It is possible to taste the Vin du Glacier wine while visiting Grimentz. (Minimum of 4 people and the language is French). Currently, it is limited to specific dates, weekly, on Mondays at 5 pm. Therefore it is best to arrange any wine tasting at the Grimentz Tourism office or Val d’Anniviers website.
Alpage de la Lée ( La Lée Alpine Pastures)is in a far corner of the Val d’Anniviers
Right at the end of the valley, there are around 800 hectares of pastures in the Alpage de la Lée area. They are spread over different levels from the Plats de la Lée up to the Zinal glacier and between the Navisence River in the valley and themountain peaks high above the valley on the west side.
In the area known as Le Vichiesso, a former alpine pasture, you will find a tsigière (alpine chalet) reconstructed in the traditional style, (a cheesestoreroom can be visited on request). Vichiesso pastures and buildings give an idea of life on the alpine pastures in the past.
Information panels can be found leading up toPetit Mountet mountain hut(2142 m) – open for eating and sleeping from June to October. There are some more traditional huts on the further up.
To get there see my orientation & info tab
Video by Cabane du Petit Mountet – Val d’Anniviers
Bisse des Sarrisins (Irrigation channels of the Saracens)
It is believed that Saracens built the irrigation channel, however, this has never been proven. They are estimated to have been built between 1415 and 1513 when the channel’s source was at a Moulinet (downstream from Pinsec).
The Bisse des Sarrisins irrigation channel is 10 km long and was used for watering livestock, irrigating the pastures and operating sawmills and mills.
Restored in the early 2000s, the Bisse des Sarrasins path is now accessible to hikers. It connects Pinsec to Vercorin and can also be reached from the village of Fang.
You will need a good head for heights in various parts on various parts of this trail.
Useful information
Season for hiking: from May to November
Duration: Approx. 3 hours
Includes: 17 educational panes along the route
Important
This mountain route is medium difficulty
It should only be attempted in dry weather
You will need a head for heights in some places
It’s each person’s responsibility to look for any changes to conditions or the roads/track before doing it.
Below is a link for more information on Bisse des Saracens and other hikes:
This Val D’Anniviers page gives details on popular trails including the Bisse des Saracens hike and hikes to alpine lakes and alpine huts.
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Visiting the Mills
The Grimentz mills date back to 1716. They were renovated in the early 1970s, and a vertical waterwheel was installed on the south façade to recreate a working site.
As mentioned on the village tab, the mill was refurbished in the traditional style, with millstones and a horizontal blade drive system, after part of it was badly damaged in May 1999
The Saint-Luc mills (Les Moulins Saint-Luc) can be found near Saint-Luc, down at the Torrent des Moulins river. These mills were built in the 16th century and renovated in 1986. On the site of the mills, you will find a corn mill, barley and nut press, 2 rye and wheat mills, a cloth mill, and the miller’s house. See the local tourism office for opening times
To get there and map see my orientation & info tab
Winter in Vissoie Village as seen from St Luc
In the past, the steep elevation of the mountains in this part of Valais caused the region to become isolated. This resulted in the formation of some unique regional dialects. Although the local population still use these dialects, they also speak standard French and German.
Interesting Fact:
The western part of the canton is mostly French-speaking (Valais) and the eastern part (Wallis) is mostly German-speaking. The mountain ridges between Val d’Anniviers and the Turtmanntal valley are considered the imaginary line or “Röstigraben” that separates the two. The clue is in the names of the valleys – Tal is German, Val is French.
See Below for Transport Information
Places mentioned in this post are displayed on the map
Transport Information
Buses leave regularly from Sierre to Vissoie (change here for connections to further down the valley, or across to St Luc). See sbb.ch for timetable and route information.
Main Routes
Sierre – Vercorin
Sierre – Vissoie
Vissoie – St-Luc
Vissoie – Grimentz
Vissoie – Grimentz – Lac de Moiry
Vissoie – (stops at Ayer) – Zinal
Cable Cars, Gondolas, chairlifts and St Luc’s Funicular
The Gemmi is a historical crossing of the northern Alpine chain. This north/south crossing – between Kandersteg and Leukerbad, was once a significant route used by the Celts, Romans, and the Alemanni (Germanic tribes). For hundreds of years, it was also a crossing point for nobility, writers and artists alike. Attractions such as its incredible wild beauty, the thermal baths in Leukerbad, and its convenience as a crossing all played parts in its popularity.
Today it is considered to be the “Klassiker der Schweizer Wanderklassiker,” which translates as the classic of the Swiss hiking classics.
The Landscape
The hiking path, popular with the Swiss, passes through an amazing natural environment – from boulder-strewn landscapes, past alpine lakes & rugged cliffs rising abruptly upwards, to soft meadows with ancient trees and the most incredible sweeping views to look at every step of the way.
Getting There
Trains frequently run through the Rhône Valley and are a great way to start your journey up into the mountains, both north and south.
Train & Bus:
Trains run from the main Rhône Valley towns – Sion, Sierre, Visp and Leuk, and from the north – Interlaken & Spiez, to Leuk (731m).
Busesconnect at Leuk train station(731m) to Leukerbad(1,411m) – (no train service for this route).
The road up to Leukerbad is steep with numerous switchbacks – approx. 30 mins. From here you can walk for 11 mins or take a connecting bus (see sbb.ch for all train and bus timetables)
The Hike – Leukerbad Cable Car (Valais) to Kandersteg, Sunnbüel Cable Car (Bernese Oberland)
Distance:
8.5 km (+ 2 km diversion for Arven Forest circular walk)
Best Time of Year:
June – Oct (although this pass can also be visited in winter for winter walking and sports)
Duration:
2.5 hrs (3-3.5 hrs incl. circular walk through Arven Forest)
Difficulty:
Moderate, reasonable stamina (and good hiking boots).
A Gemmi Pass hiking map can be found at the bottom of this page.
Gemmi Trail
Don’t get the Gemmi Pass hike confused with the Gemmi Trail. The Trail is a difficult ascent from Leukerbad up to the top of the Gemmi cable car. It is extremely challenging (900 metres in 2 hours) but would also be a great achievement. You would be following in the footsteps of some famous names – Goethe, Mark Twain, Lenin and Picasso (according to the Leukerbad Tourism site).
I did this walk a few years ago – it is one I had wanted to do for a while and was well worth the wait. The walk starts at the top of the thrilling Leukerbad cable car (can be done from either direction). From here, you follow the signposts pointing towards Kandersteg. The sign indicates that the hike takes 4 hours, however, that is only if you decide not to take the Sunnbüel cable car & bus at the end of this walk. (I confirmed this with some seasoned walkers).
We soon came across Daubensee which lies at 2207m. Once reaching this impressive lake, you can see the path stretching off into the distance, giving an idea of what is coming up. The main path is on the right-hand side of the lake which was a bit of a relief to me as the other path, which you can also do, looked pretty challenging.
After the lake, you start to go downhill through rocky terrain, past loads of weather-beaten boulders. If you use your imagination, they start looking like strange creatures from another world.
After about 30 minutes you can see the Schwarenbach restaurant in the distance. you can stop here for a drink or snack and, of course, a toilet break. The hiking trail goes between the tables on the terrace and past a small kiosk which sells postcards and, sometimes, sun hats etc. – very civilised.
From this point, the views change with most of the rocks and boulders now covered with plants and trees.
It is possible to do a small diversion into the Arven Forest (Arvenwald) after about 6 km into the walk. The diversion is clearly marked as a Rundweg (circular path) which will bring you back on the trail to Sunnbüel. Make sure to follow the yellow signposts and diamonds that show the way. This will also take you past two small lakes called Arvenseeli – however, these are often dried up in summer.
After the forest, there are several ascents. At this point, it’s pretty satisfying to look back to see how far you have come.
When arriving at the very welcoming Bergrestaurant Sunnbüel you can see views of the Kandersteg region including the impressive Gasterntal (Gastern Valley which I am visiting and will be writing about soon). The cable car is here and it leaves every half hour but, as with a lot of these cable cars, it goes more often during busy times.
There is also the option to walk down rather than take the cable car although I haven’t done this myself. Note: In the past, the Sunnbüel cable car wouldn’t accept credit cards, only cash.
The bus from the valley to Kandersteg (March 2024) leaves every hour (until 18:56 in summer) see sbb.ch for up-to-date information.
Bad Ragaz is a thermal resort surrounded by water. You can hear the Tamina river roaring through the town, making its way from deep inside the Tamina Gorge. Waterfalls feed the river as it carves its way through the rugged Tamina valley, to finally pour into the powerful Rhein. Meanwhile, the town’s elegantly designed fountains bubble away softly and the healing waters of the Tamina Thermal Baths gently soothe with their hot pools, massaging jets and steam rooms.
My first visit to Bad Ragaz and Termina Thermal Baths was a couple of years ago. A friend and I were browsing through Switzerland’s public transport website (sbb.ch) for relaxing day trip ideas. They offer combi deals – transport + activity or experience at discounted prices.
We found a good spa deal and neither of us had visited Bad Ragaz before, so off we went. We had a nice relaxing time and I recommend both the town and the spa for a place to recharge your batteries.
The things I thought made this day spa experience special were:
The mountain views from the outdoor pool.
The steam room – outside the sauna area (where you can keep on your bathing suit)
The opportunity to join in a mineral salt experience – which includes being handed your mineral salts
The beautifully designed building with huge oval windows.
The large amount of jets – in the large indoor and outside pool.
… and of course, a relaxing walk through the resort’s lovely town then a coffee or spritzer at a cafe before the train trip home. This definitely adds to the experience.
Bus & hike or drive to the historic settlement of Sankt Martin, Pfäfers at the edge of an alpine reservoir – also found in the Sardona Tectonic Arena.
Scientists are still unsure about the origins of Tamina’s thermal water. It’s presumed that the waters originate from the Tödi region in canton Glarus, seeping down about 1,000 metres underground. This causes the water to warm and, after about 10 years, it gradually rises through crevasses into the gorge. The mineral water temperature is a constant 36.5 Celsius at the point it emerges, and is soft and free from bacteria. This Grand Resort Bad Ragaz video explains it all perfectly:
There have been thermal baths here since the 16th Century. A museum and information about the story of the baths and the thermal waters can be found at the Altes Bad Pfäfers (old Pfäfers baths) and inside the gorge.
After leaving the town it is a short walk to the Tamina Valley walking trail:
This walk begins at the centre of Bad Ragaz and follows the Badtobelweg. This narrow road runs alongside the Tamina river and ends at the enclosed part of the Tamina gorge (about 4.5 km). The only vehicle allowed on this road is bus 453 that runs from Bad Ragaz train station.
Tamina Valley walk to gorge – bbq and bus stop. A Leggettby bbq spot – Tamina Valley approx. halfway point with bus stopThe Badtobel grill and picnic spot offer a great place to stop and eat in a lovely setting. There are toilets, benches and tips on different ways to cook your sausages. This place doubles as the Badtobel bus stop.
The post bus easily manages to fit through the gap.
There are plenty of opportunities to cool off. Water cascades or trickles down the rockface all along the walk.
The gorge becomes wild and rugged in places – giving the gorge a tropical feel.
Walking under the TaminaBrücke (Tamina Bridge). The largest arched bridge in Switzerland.
Facing the old Pfäfers Baths from the entrance to springs.
Once reaching the gorge through a large opening and turnstile, there is a fenced-off walkway curving alongside the rockface, with water spraying past, and sometimes directly onto it – so expect to get a bit wet when entering.
There is an entrance charge for this enclosed part of the gorge. Tickets are available at the old baths Pfäfer which you walk through just before entry. There is a light show that accentuates the curves of the inner gorge’s walls. These lights are reasonably subtle and double as lighting so you can see where you are going.
Down the rabbit hole….
Once you get to the end of the walkway there are two doors with years 1969 and 1987 written above them – The original entry from the old baths closed in 1969 so this door is closed and locked, however, 1987 opens out to a narrow, dimly lit tunnel. When following the tunnel the temperature rises until finally reaching a dead end. Here is a warm natural spring so you can feel the thermal waters for yourself while reading the information panels. So no white rabbits or mad hatters down here…
When passing back through the altes Bad Pfäfers, there is a kiosk with seating outdoors, a cafe inside and, as mentioned earlier, a museum where the original thermal bathing rooms and a kitchen are displayed.
It is now possible to take a bus back or continue walking to other towns above the gorge.
Fascinating sculptures in the Bad Ragartz Exhibition
This open-air exhibition takes place in and around the town every 3 years and is considered to be the largest open-air sculpture display in Europe. The last exhibition (2021) showcased 83 artists from 16 countries.
It is free to view unless you want to take a guided tour. For me, the interactive sculptures were the best. I was able to add my head to a sculpture full of heads, walk up the stairs of a rusty metal structure and bounce on a beam that sunk partially underground. There are plenty of other pieces where kids can clamber over, through or climb on, however, some sculptures are NOT interactive, indicated with a polite do not touch sign. Also, what are those apes looking at??
The Bündner Herrschaft is the largest and best-known wine-growing region in Canton Graubunden. The region’s sunny location, frequent warm winds (föhn) and porous soil provide perfect conditions for grapes to thrive. First-class wines have been made here for centuries.
I visited this region in early July which seemed to be a perfect time. At this time of year, the vines are heavy with bright green leaves and small bunches of tiny grapes soak up the hot summer sun. Colourful roses are all around, and the meadows are full of wildflowers. Sounds like I am about to break into a song, but that is what it was like.
I decided to walk some of the Weinwanderweg (Wine walking trail) which passes through vineyards and villages, to learn about the process of making wine in this region. Clear information panels are available along the trail explaining the whole process from Spring to Winter; from planting the first vines to replacing the old ones. There were people working hard in the fields and the small tractors, specially designed to move between the vines, were busily doing their thing while I walked.
I found the whole experience including the views, smells and of course taste of the wine the perfect day trip for a break from the everyday. It felt a little bit like I had travelled deep into the vineyards of the Mediterranean, rather than a few kilometres off the main north/south motorway from Zürich to southern Switzerland.
Zürich – Maienfeld, changing at Sargans — 1 hour 5 mins
Zürich – Malans, changing at Landquart to bus 22 — 1 hour 14 mins
Lucerne- Maienfeld, 2 hours via Zürich HB.
Bus 22operates between Landquart and Maienfeld:
From Landquart train station arriving across the road from Malan’s train station in 5-7 mins. *From here is easy to take off into the countryside for a morning, afternoon or day of exploring.)
Lucerne – Maienfeld, takes approx. 1 hour 30 mins – 124 km, via Lake Zürich
Chur – Maienfeld, takes 15 mins, 20 km
Lanquart – Maienfeld, takes 5 min – 5 km
Walking from:
Landquart – Malans, 2km – 30 mins.
Landquart – Jenins, via Malans, 5 km – 1 hour
Maienfeld – Jenins, 2.7 km – 40 mins.
Maienfeld – Malans, via Jenins, 6 km – 1 hour 15 mins
BBQ spot just of the wine trail
This region offers some lovely restaurants, inns and wineries with terraces to take in the lovely scenery and fresh county air. There are also plenty of places available if you wish to prepare your own food or having a takeaway or picnic.
Find a Bench – These can be found almost anywhere. I found several alongside the walking tracks – often in the shade of trees or hedges and also dotted around the paths that run between the parcels of vines. Some even have the name of the vineyard carved on them.
Have a BBQ – Various BBQ spots with excellent facilities like grills, wood and tables can be found around this area (see map below).
Sit on a Restaurant Terrace – There are a lot of well-positioned terraces that face towards the great expanse of vines and Rhein Valley beyond. A couple I found in Jenins are close together – Alter Torkel which has an up-market style of food, and the Landgasthof zur Bündte. This hotel with restaurant has been in the same family for 5 generations (back to 1888).
Bad Ragaz – is a spa town across the Rhein in canton St. Gallen. This town straddles the impressive Tamina River which roars its way into the Tamina Gorge – there is a shaded walk alongside the Tamina river to the narrow gorge which is lit up to show off its impressive curves and cliffs. Bad Ragaz is also the place to take the Pizolbahnen (cable car) up to a popular walk – the 5 Lake Walk at the top of Pizol mountain.
Chur – The main town and main transport hub of Graubünden. Chur has a lovely enclosed old-town.
Fläsch – This is the most northern wine-growing town of the Bündner Herrschaft region. It has won the Wakker Prize 2010 for good town planning that preserved the orchards and vinyards within the towns boundries. Worth checking out because: There are 14 self-pressing viticulture companies in Fläsch. For more information go to their website.
My Walk Through The Vineyards – from Malans to Maienfeld
This area is spread out like a patchwork quilt on the gentle slopes above the Rhein plains. The north/south highway and railway line run directly alongside a straight section of the Rhein giving easy access to the area. The main towns are Landquart and Maienfeld with smaller towns like Malans also on the rail line. Buses connect the higher wine-growing villages and some small cable cars to train stations.
This was a decent 2-hour walk but it is just as easy to do smaller sections around the villages or try out many other trails that criss-cross the region.
Some impressions of the area from Malans to Jenins
The Village of Jenins
Jenins has narrow lanes with historical buildings, elegant mansions and old wooden houses clustering together, giving the village a cosy feel. Every now and the narrow streets and lanes lead to small squares with fountains. Grape vines seem to be growing everywhere; covering fences and crawling up houses as well as filling green spaces in and around the village.
According to Jenins’ website, this town has always had a policy of protecting its heritage, which includes the buildings, businesses and land, ensuring that modern buildings could not, for the most part, be built within the town, or onto the cultivated land around it – leaving the wineries in the area untouched for hundreds of years.
The locals seemed to support this leading to the avoidance of any building booms and also ensured that family-run business stayed within the families. The vineyards (around 44 hectares) are firmly in private hands, while the pasture areas belong to the municipality.
Alpine farming
The traditional Swiss method of using the high altitude meadows, is of great importance in Jenins: In summer the cows climb up to the 2,373 meter high summit of the Vilan in search of tasty grasses and herbs.
Contacting the winemakers in Jenins
These Jenins vineyards and cellars can be visits by appointment or have opening times. Another option is to check out the wine festivals – all information is on the websites. This is just a small example of what is available in the region.
Luzi and Ottilie Jenny-Willi Viticulture and self-pressing www.luzijenny.ch
Around 70 wine producers belong to the Graubünden Wine Association. The association has a presentation room attached to the Old Torkel Restaurant which sits above the vines on the edge of Jenins.
You can come here for tastings, information about the wines of the region and to book public guided tours of the vineyards.
Recent information on the Heidiland tourism website states: It is possible to do a 90-minute tour through the vines followed by a tasting, without reservation every Friday at 4.30 pm from April to October. Contact the House of Graubünden Wines, Jeninserstrasse 3, 7307 Jenins, Phone +41 (0)81 302 87 08, Email [email protected]
History and Heidi
Maienfeld, 502m, the «third city on the Rhine», lies at the foot of the striking Falknis, on the east side of the Rhine valley. The fact that Maienfeld, with 2500 inhabitants, can call itself a city dates back to city rights granted in the 15th century. At that time, Maienfeld stood at the intersection of historic military and transit roads on the Rhine valley and Walensee route. The old town with its impressive mansions and Salenegg and Brandis Castles today rates as a cultural asset of national importance.
In addition to wine and the international horse races in, October, Maienfeld owes its fame to Heidi, the figure from the world-famous children’s story by Johanna Spyri, published in 1880/1881 and translated into over 50 languages. Most of the story is set in the hamlet of Oberrofels, directly above Maienfeld. Today a Heidi Path leads from Maienfeld into a reproduced Heidi village, where a small living museum has been opened in the original Heidi house. There is also a hike called the “Heidi Trail” that goes up to Heidi Alp at 1111m, then back to Maienfeld via Vadella – Jenins.
Lush green pastures, forest-covered slopes and craggy peaks surround the town of Schwyz. A trip up the Rotenflue cable car gives a great panorama of all this as well as the Alps, Vierwaldstättersee (Lake Lucerne) and Lauerezsee(Lake Lauer). All slowly come into view as you glide up to the mountain station at 1571 metres above sea level.
The cable car takes 15 minutes to climb from Rickenbach (neighbouring town of Schwyz) up to Rotenflue; the start of an idyllic natural landscape. From here it is possible to walk through nearby Moorland, meadows and forests or relax in the mountain inns, at BBQ spots or on panorama benches.
Grill spots can be found within easy walking distance of the top station. Four grill spots close to the mountain station are:
Kreuz – an official Swiss Family BBQ spot. 300m south of the cable car
Heublätz – 200m below the Restaurant Gipfelstubli
Gruebi/Chänzeli – an official Swiss Family BBQ spot 800m from cable car, direction Holzegg
Holzweid
Ordering a Picnic Basket (Picnic Korb)
In summer, it is possible to pick up a picnic basket and seat cover from the Gipfelstubli restaurant, situated at the top Rotenflue cable car station. There are currently (July 2021) three variants:
The Classic ( Klassische) incl. mineral water, home made ice tea
The Festive (Festliche) incl. Prosecco
The Love Affair… (direct translation from Die Liebelei) incl. Champagne
All offer food such as fresh fruit, dried fruit, bread, mineral water, cheese and sausages. (extras like vegetables, pasta salad and dessert for The Festive & The Love Affair). Also included are cups, picnic dishes and cutlery.
This walk is also possible as a winter walk and withsnowshoes – and from both directions. We did this one recently (Dec. 2021) from Ibergeregg. It was holiday time so reasonably busy. This was down to the perfect skiing conditions, perfect weather and was during the Christmas holidays. Was a wonderful experience with wonderful views and very entertaining watching the sledders flying past. This path also crosses some ski pistes.
The region between Ibergeregg, Holzegg and Rotenflue offers plenty of well-signposted Snowshoe trails and various skiing possibilities including a ski safari for the adventurous. It is 14 km and takes about 3 hours. Contact [email protected] for more details.
Circular Walk with lookout points, Restaurant Terraces and a BBQ spot
Mythen Region Transport Links – up to Rotenflue
Train — Bus — Rotenflue Cable Car
Train to Schwyz (offering some wonderful scenery along the way)
From Zürich – 1 hr, incl. change at Zug or Arth Goldau. Onward to Locarno.
From Lucerne – 40-50 mins; From Zug – 30 mins
Bus from Schwyz train station to Rotenflue Cable Car – summer and autumn only
Bus Nr. 503 – operates regularly in both directions, stopping at Schwyz town centre. Journey time: 12-16 mins.
Bus Nr. 505 – operates regularly in both directions, stopping at Schwyz town centre. Journey time: 9-11 mins.
Rotenflue Cable Car
Open: 8th May – 2nd July daily from 9am – 5pm; 3rd July – 31st Oct. daily from 8.30am – 5.30pm; 1st November – beginning ski season daily from 9am – 4.3 pm. (dates for 2021). For up-to-date information go here.
View of Lake Lucerne from Seelisberg Hoch Flue, Photo by A.Leggett
There are thousands of places to grill in Switzerland, guaranteeing that you will stumble across at least one on your walks or sightseeing trips. However, sometimes it can help to be guided in the right direction. I know from experience that it can be frustrating to find the perfect BBQ spot but not have the right equipment – nothing to put the meat patties, skewer, or squeaky cheese on, for example.
For this reason, I would recommend checking out websites like schweizerfeuerstellen.ch. Schweizer Familie is a long-running Swiss magazine. They have a website dedicated to advising on some of the better grill spots throughout the country. It’s in German but simple to use. Add the name of the area you wish to visit to find options with maps, pictures, facilities and a 360-degree video.
Another option is to check out the local tourism websites such aslucerne.ch. This link includes a map view, of over 150 BBQ sites in central Switzerland.
The websites also advise on whether you need to bring anything with you. Some grills have everything except the food & cutlery, whereas others are just firepits. Sometimes things like a grill plate, wood, benches, tables and shade are available, other times just a circle of stones… In both circumstances, however, you will often find a whittled-down stick, ready to disinfect in the fire then use for stabbing your sausage or marshmallows.
waldbrandgefahr.ch is a great website to find out at a glance what is happening around the country regarding up-to-date restrictions on grilling in the open with a colour-coded map and warning levels.
Over the years we have found some really nice places to grill. Below are some I consider to be extra special – however, I am still looking and will post more as I come across them.
AppenzellInnerrhoden
Sämtisersee from Hoher Kasten
Sämtisersee – This location can only be reached by foot. There are lovely walks from the top of Hoher Kasten cable car, down to the alpine lake, then back across to the cable car station at Brülisau. Wood is sometimes available and there should be a grill.
Simple BBQ grill
Lake Sämtisersee – looking towards Fählensee
Wood pile for BBQ
We recently hiked from the top of the cable car, down to the two lakes in the valley (July 2023). The BBQ is in a prime position on the lake and is also a great place for picnicking and swimming. It is close to the forested area offering a bit of shade. Another option for food and drink is the Mountain Guest House Plattenbödeli just up from the lake.
Reason to stop here: To sit and eat right beside this idyllic alpine lake nestled in a mountainous landscape.
How to get there:By Car:From Zürich, approx. 1 hr 20 mins (via A1 around Winterthur). From Appenzell, 10 mins. By Train: From Zürich, 2 hrs with 2 changes. From Appenzell, 15 mins with 1 change. Good to know: This is also a great place to picnic & there is a restaurant close by called Plattenbödeli if the firepit doesn’t work out.
It won’t take long to find several grilling spots when walking from the town of Weesen along the northern side of Walensee (Lake Walen) – some with grills, others without.
Reason to stop here: We have used the one at Betlis several times. It offers great facilities (including toilets) and a chance to walk to the impressive Seerenbach waterfalls in one direction, and some smaller, shaded firepits, a port area for boat trips and a small swimming beach in the other direction (the path in the pictures leads to the second option).
Above Walensee – Amden
The small town of Amden is a good starting point for many excursions high in the meadows and hills above Walensee. It is quintessential Switzerland – the area is even called Heidiland. You will see traditional farms, goats with bells, meadows full of wildflowers, Beizlis and mountain inns.
The Mattstock chair lift in the centre of Amden is really the only way of getting up to higher hiking tracks (apart from hiking). We tried to drive up to the top cable car station – the roads were good to a point then they narrowed and we found it very difficult to find a public road and there were no places to park – I don’t think we were supposed to go there by car… So, I recommend using the chair lift. (It wasn’t operating during our visit).
There are also plenty of walks from Amden with BBQ spots. We used two Swiss Family BBQs in great locations; Feuerstelle Rombach is a short walk up behind the village and Girengärtli is a hike towards the cliffs.
Reason to stop here: High up above the lake within a forest. Quiet area with a viewing platform and plenty of facilities. Is also a good place to stop when walking further or simply as a destination.
Getting There
By Car: Takes 1 hour (66 km)
By Train & Bus: Zürich to Weesen (lakeside) – 1 hour, incl. a change at Ziegelbrücke for 7 min. bus trip. Weesen to Amden(mountain) is a further 10/15 mins with the bus.
Klöntalersee is like a huge turquoise magnet. Its sheer beauty brings the crowds, especially at the weekend.
The alternative is this beautiful lake that we visited off-season recently – Obersee. This is also stunning and it has a restaurant right on the lakeshore. It can be more difficult to reach as Swiss public transport does not come to this lake.
The road is in good condition if a little narrow – meaning a slow drive. There are plenty of passing lanes if you meet someone coming the other way & there are biking trails starting at the valley.
Currently, both Obersee and Klöntalerseedon’thave any grilling placesorBBQswith facilities however firepits can be found around the lakes. You will need to bring your own grill, forage for firewood and have a Swiss army knife for carving sticks. Trees surround these lovely lakes with enough wood lying around for a decent fry-up – remember your matches!
Good to Know: There are 2 camping grounds at Klöntalersee and metered parking near Camping Güntlenau on the east side of the lake. This camping ground also has BBQ facilities available.
Reason to stop here:By using the firepits, you should avoid the crowds. These places are such naturally beautiful spots that it seems a shame to see it all from the distance of a terrace when you can have a front-seat view, sitting on a rock or a log.
Getting To Obersee & Klöntalersee:
Oberseeby Car:from Näfels, 17 mins – 8 km; from Zürich, 1 hour – 70 km. By Public Transport: no connection to Obersee. Klöntalersee by Car: from Glarus, 16 mins – 10 km; By Public Transport: from Glarus by bus, 18 mins to the east of the lake.
In the forests, high up above Lake Lucerne there are countless BBQ spots – my discoveries are around the small town of Seelisberg, on the west side of the lake in Canton Uri.
Marienhöhe can be found south of Seelisberg and has two grills offering great facilities including tables, benches, wood and a shelter.
Reason to stop here: The views of Lake Lucerne and the surrounding mountains, facilities and plenty of shade.
Getting There: The best way is to by boat on Lake Lucerne to Treib, then take the funicular up to Seelisberg. From here you can walk 20 minutes to Seelisberg, Oberdorf, then from the Volg mini-market go either south to the Marienhöhe – a nice walk through the forest, or turn off at Kapelle Maria Sonnenberg and go up the zig-zag trail to Hoch Flue, a much more challenging climb. If you want to visit Lake Seeli, then do the walk, take the bus from Seelisberg (funicular) to bus stop Seeli (dep. hourly – takes 4 mins).
From Zugerberg funicular, there is a signpost covered in yellow signs pointing the way to loads of different walking possibilities. One particular grill spot is great for shade and views – Brand Feuerstelle. This is situated on the edge of a forest, overlooking a meadow to the mountains in the distance. They have huge tables and benches, viewing seating, wooden sculptures for children, and good BBQ facilities.
Reason to stop here: Brand Feuerstelle and others in this area offer spacious areas on the edge of the forest giving you a chance to spread out and find your own space. The kids play areas are also spread out, not simply next to the BBQ spots and, as mentioned earlier, they have good BBQ facilities.
Getting There: From the funicular top station turn right and follow the signs to Spielplatz Schattwaldi (forest adventure playground, also with grilling possibilities), then Feuerstelle (grilling place) and Aussichtspunkt (lookout point); about 20-30 minutes walk altogether.
CantonZürich – alongside the Rhein
Eglisau
The pretty town of Eglisau is directly north of Zürich city and on the Rhein. This forested part of the Rhein has relaxing walks through a nature-protected area and vineyards. It is not possible to set up your own firepit but there are several good ones to choose from on both sides of the Rhein.
Reason to stop here: This is a peaceful part of the Rhine, covered in protected forests and partially lined with vineyards. Most BBQ spots offer a grill, seating, shade, boulders to play around and the Rhine to paddle in. When visiting Eglisau you can swim at the Strandbad (riverside baths) or go by boat to the impressive Rhine Falls. There are also some good launching sites for paddle boats.
Getting There:By Car: From Zürich city – approx. 30 minutes (26 km). By Public Transport:From Zürich HB – S9 train, direction Schaffhausen takes 32 mins (as of June 2021).
Nearly every place in Switzerland boasts stunning views, so I may have missed a few 100 ideas from my list. However, these are some of my personal favourites so far. They are idyllic spots with plenty of room for exploring. These places are peaceful and away from the crowds of tourists. Hoher Kasten however, is best visited during the week as it’s a popular spot for the Swiss.
I will continue to explore with my family and post a Part 2 some time soon…
1)Hoher Kasten, Appenzell
These views are from the Hoher Kasten cable car and viewing platforms at the top. Hiking trails lead down to nearby lakes, forests and valleys.
How to get there:
Train/Bus: Appenzell, to Brülisau-Hoher Kasten: Train to Weissbad, then bus to cable car station at Brülisau – 16 mins.
By Car: Appenzell to Hoher Kasten lower station: 10 mins – 6 km
What to do here: Visit the revolving restaurant, hike back down or doa themed trail. Or simply enjoy the views from the viewing terraces and platforms.
2)Ftan; looking across the valley to Tarasp castle, Graubünden
The little village of Ftan is across the deep lower Engadin Valley. This village and its surrounding countryside offers unspoilt views of the impressive Tarasp Castle.
How to get there:
By Train:from Scuol, the largest town in the Lower Engadine valley, it takes 22 mins; from Landquart, 2 hrs 5 mins, with a change in Scuol.
By Car: From Landquart: Route 28, takes approx. 1 hr 30 – 71 km.
What to do around here: You can register for a guided tour of Tarasp Castle on their website. as well as plenty of hiking & biking, scenic trains trips, thermal baths at Scuol and skiing in winter.
Seelisberg is a small town sitting on a shelf above lake Lucerne. It is reachable by a combination of boat and funicular or from Lucerne, by road.
There is a natural mountain lake called Lake Seeli which offers swimming possibilities and camping (no vehicles of any kind are allowed on the campsite).It is when you walk away from this town and lake that you will reach the stunning viewpoints shown in this picture. There are also benches, loungers and grill spots if you feel like sticking around for a bit.
I did a circular hike from the Seelisee bus stop (Seeli) to the lake and beyond, then through the town, upwards to the other side of the main road until reaching a sheer cliff… from here I walked alongside the cliff, then turned back down to the bus stop, (almost missing the hourly bus). For more details of this walk, go to my Uri & Lake Lucerne page.
How to get there:
By boat to Treib, then funicular: seesbb.ch
Train/Bus: Takes approx. 1 hour with change from train to a bus in Stans.
By Car: From Lucerne, take the A2 for 31 km to Seeli parking (30 mins).
What to do here: swim, have a picnic or grill, hike, and camp (in the official camping site by the lake).
The photos are from the tiny town of Gandria on the side of Lake Lugano. The view is of the eastern arm of the lake, looking over the border into Italy. With the palm trees and bright blue sky, you could already imagine being in Italy.
How to get there:
By boat: From Lugano, takes 25-45 mins (for boat trips see my Canton Ticino site).
By Car: From Lugano: 15 mins, 5 km
What to do here: See my page on Canton Ticino for more on Gandria
There are lovely viewpoints at many places along the Rhein – from Germany to the source, Lai de Tuma, in canton Graubünden– considered the starting point. I have walked alongside and floated on the Rhein many times but this section, where the little medieval town of Eglisau sits on the banks, is one of my favourites. The bridge into Eglisau is a great viewpoint for seeing the lush green hills on either side. The town itself has well preserved historic buildings and a park area along the Rhein. From here there are trails through the forests giving more stunning views of the river on one side and, now and then, vineyards on the other. But best of all – it is off the normal tourist route.
How to get there:
By Train: From Winterthur: Takes 33 mins with 1 change. See sbb.ch.
By Car: From Winterthur: Takes 28 mins, 21 km
What to do here:
Walks up in the hills or down by the river.
Grilling by the river (only in allocated spots as this is a protected area)
Swimming in the Rhein at Eglisau or,
Boat trips on the Rhein
6) Wissifluh Cable car & Panorama Bench, Vitznau
From Wissifluh Gondola looking down on Vitznau campsite
Panorama Bench
From the lakeside town of Vitznau, canton Lucerne, it is possible to walk or drive to 2 gondolas. The bottom stations are next to each other, each with car parking.
The Wissifluhgondola is self-service. Basically, you will need to order a gondola and a maximum of 4 people can fit inside.
There are clear instructions in German and English explaining, in steps, what to do to “call” the gondola down and how to get moving once you are inside… It can be a bit disconcerting but, once you start seeing the views and have alighted at the top (after the top station’s little door slides open) you will soon stop shaking. It is a peaceful area with farms and meadows, and of course, the famous Panorama Bench to distract you from thinking about your trip back down.
How to get there: Train or boat from Lucerne: See sbb.ch for the timetable options. Each option takes about 1 hour. Driving: From Lucerne city centre: 35-45 mins – 26 km.
What to do here: Important points: 1. You pay on arrival at the top station. 2. Often these farm restaurants only take cash.
7) Seealpsee, AppenzellInnerrhoden
Seealpsee with the peak of Säntis in the middle distance
There is only one way to reach this lake – hike. The walking trail from Wasserauen to here is a great opportunity to experience the dramatic natural environment of the Alpstein Massif. See my Appenzell page for more information about the hike to Seealpsee and other options around this region.
Getting There:
By Train: Appenzell town to Wasserauen – regular departure. Travel Time: 13 mins.
By Car: Appenzell to Wasserauen – 11 mins drive – 7 km. Zürich to Wasserauen – 1.15 hrs – 100 km
What to do here:
Hiking, cable car rides,visiting the Mountain Inns on the lake and further above and for the experienced hiker/climber attempt to hike up Säntis.
